Years ago I was getting a house ready to sell and as I was checking a backdoor screen door a gust of wind ripped the door out of my hand and split the wood jamb where the door opener had been anchored. I was now living out of town and was looking for a quick repair. I had heard that bondo could be used to repair wood so I decided to give it a try. I cut the broken piece of jamb out of the door frame and had my neighbor make me a new piece. Then I nailed it in place and still had two "slits" at the top and bottom of where the repair piece was attached. So to fill in the slits I used Bondo. It dried in a couple of hours and I sanded it and painted it. The next day I came back to check my repair and I couldn't even tell exactly where the repaired piece was, the repair was that good. Made a believer out of me.
I agree, end results look good. Been using this since 1964. I note your mix ratio is greater than I use, I look at the can. Most brands run a ratio of golfball size filler to pea size hardener. My mixing is done on a hard surface so hardener is not adsorbed by cardboard. I do not use the forms, nails etc and make my life easier. I just trowel it on oversize both sides. Get a drink, come back in ten minutes with my razor knife and trim it ( it will be leather hard and trims well), I let it get fully hard then sand. Auto body guys taught me about this product in the sixties. Oh yeah ! I find the best way to mix is with the putty knife on a piece of sheet metal. Just mull it back and forth a few times, no nail required and it is already on my blade ready to apply.
I bought a square of smooth tile (or marble) from Habitat that I keep in my shop. I use it for mixing Bondo. When done, the Bondo is easy to scrape off, and I can reuse the tile.
Thanks young man, I enjoy your videos and your way in teaching even at 75 I'm still learning. Wish you the best and good luck with your books , I'm sure you'll do fine. Be safe, Be well.
I have been using Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty for years. It's available at Lowe's and Home Depot. Inexpensive. My dad used it and now my son uses it also. It sands easily and takes paint. It holds up in weather very well once painted.
Great repair job. I've used Bondo to repair a lot of exterior rot damage with good results. One tip, get yourself some cheap plastic spreader tools. If the big box store doesn't have them you can get combo pack at an auto parts store. Saves you a lot of grief cleaning up your tools. And easy on the hardener. The more you use the faster it hardens and is hard to work with. You can lay it on thick and shape with a rasp before it completely hardens. (Ha, I'm showing my "old school" fender repair tricks!)
Good idea, Gerard! If the notch is deeper than 1/4", I'll also sometimes embed a screw in the area, with the head standing proud, so the filler can mold around that for an anchor
I wonder how many people have sawdust colored by wood stain which is then mixed with clear epoxy and used to fill nail holes and other applications . I keep 6 different quart sized ziplok bags of sawdust in different colors .
Not really needed bondo sticks to wood like super glue if the surface is clean. I live in the northeast and used to repair the bottom of my garage doors that were damaged from weathering. So much cheaper than buying new doors.
@Jack Boudreaux Central Massachusetts. I put it on the door about 30 years ago. Still there. You do have to sand it good prior to application and use good paint. If you did a single thick coat it probably would crack.
This is so great...I have quite a few things to fix..Adding that piece of wood to the edge, i would never have thought of..Thanks for taking the time to help dumbos like me x
Using the block is a great technique but instead of brad nails try a strip of blue tape on the surface being repaired then use double stick tape on the block. The blue tape will ensure you have no surface damage to repair after your repair. Also, to clean your blade, keep a clean rag on a flat surface available. Pour some acetone on the rag and clean the blade with that. A lot less work.
Thanks Ethan, exactly the info I needed - perfect! I've been trying to figure out how to fix the corner of an apt door without it looking like its been repaired, so I don't have to pay for it upon moving out. : )
WOW, you have really grown in your video format and editing in the past 4 years. I have recently subscribed to your channel, and have been watching your recent work. This was very helpful for my current issue. Great job.
Helpful tip: use plastic mud knives when using bondo for easiest cleanup by bending plastic to crack up the bondo. It comes off like butter after that.
Thank you so very much. I was at the point of using what I had, when I was younger. There is so many new items on the market, it made me even more confused. You have helped me so very much. Thank you again
Your end product is good, some advice from a Painter, you made up way too much Bondo and also used too much hardener. Sanding between coats isn`t advised, you end up with a lot of dust. Also Bondo is more effective in a dense application so I would advise buying a tube of finish putty instead of applying a thin skim of Bondo, Keep up the good work....
Thought that was a pretty large amount of Bondo for that fix. Hope you utilized it in other repairs. Thanks for the video. Restoring an old digital piano and am going to try this.
Be advised ... Two part fillers like Bondo will set up in a relatively short time, but can continue to cure and give off gasses for several days or even weeks. Using excessive hardener, deep fills and fills exposed to high temperatures will increase this ex-gassing. Gasses that are trapped beneath a coat of paint or urethane will form pockets - everything from small bubbles to huge blisters - thus ruining the appearance of a repair. Plastic fillers also become relatively impervious to moisture, unlike the surrounding wood which can shrink or swell with changes in moisture content. Eventually, cracks can appear at the edges of a fill, requiring additional filling and/or painting. Uncured fillers can also bleed into surrounding wood, making it unsuitable for anything other than a paint finish. I learned the hard way and will never again use a plastic filler where appearance matters. It's fine for repairs on tool sheds and dog houses or for making quick in-shop jigs and shaped sanding blocks, but not much else.
what would you use for this type of fix instead? I see people often use bondo on window sills etc. and many seem to say it works fine, but your comment makes me think I should try a different product.
@@Mr0idontknow No, but I've since found a product line called Abatron that is more expensive but specifically made for this task and they use it in historical restoration for very important buildings, so it seems to be the best thing you can buy. If you want to spend the money, that is.
A paint scraper (razor blade) makes bondo removal from tools a breeze, even after it has dried, also 2 coats of shellac based primer is best for exterior bondo use.
For what its worth the mixture ratio is supposed to be a 1/4-1/2 inch long ribbon of hardener per golfball sized filler. The more you put in the faster it sets. You could probably dial ypur hardener back and get alot more time. You are adding way too much unless your hardener is old then you need more. Also use a plastic spreader and while the mixture still liquid set the scraper in the mixture and all the filler will peel off clean. Auto body background has taught me all things body filler!
That was my first thought. The auto body guys are going to be on here explaining the tips on Bondo usage. I think I'm going to try this Bondo for a few spots that have rotted around a door frame. I have more experience with auto body than wood working.
Good video, JB Weld has a body filler that also works well. From the reveiws i read Bondo original is the #1 rated because of the pink color which shows how well its mixed.
Very helpful. My apartment maintenance "repaired" a gouged door threshold and it looks like gum stuck to the floor. Terrible. I'm going to redo it myself after seeing this.
I damaged my wall trying to get a huge couch through a narrow passage. I will be trying to repair it - first time doing a major house project. Wish me luck.
Awesome advice! I wonder if a layer of packing tape on your edge block of wood would help it separate easier? Would also be another thing to carry though... This channel is invaluable to DIY homeowners!
Does this product only stick to bare wood or can you put it on painted wood? I have wood that's already painted that has different levels where it's been scraped previously or other imperfections.
I used it to repair the bottom of my father’s storm door that was deteriorating because of yearly winter weathering. That was about 20 years ago and the door is still there. Bondo remained stable under the paint.
I’ve found that if you use a pin nailer (23 gauge) and spray the guide wood with wd40 it comes off way easier. In a pinch you could use a crayon or wax as well. I also take a scrap 2x4 flat on my tailgate and use my orbital to sand it off my tools.
I am repairing the wood header where the joist meets. The header is rotted about half inch deep and 4 inch wide. After I repair/patch the header rotted area with Bondo, is it "strong" enough to get nails/screws into it for installing metal bracket and to hang joist?
You can also use your sander to clean those putty knives. My dad was a custom cabinet builder for years and that is how they cleanes their putty knives... fine grit on belt sander.
@Scott R Good call. I don't have a handy belt sander in the work van, but every now and then I'll pull out the orbital and hit the bondo taping knives. Where did your dad build cabinets at? My grandfather was a cabinet builder, as well as a great outboard mechanic in PA. He was good at pretty much everything he did :)
Years ago we replaced parts of a porch deck with bondo. We have never been able to get primer and paint to stick to it--it lifts off very quickly. Is there a special primer or something else I should try?
@Liz Deer : Bondo gives off gases as it cures. Long after simply becoming hard, it can still be ex-gassing to create blisters beneath fresh paint. Fresh Bondo also bleeds invisibly into surrounding wood and paint. It sounds like that's what's happened in your case. You might try sanding the fill and the surrounding paint down to clean wood (not so deep as to create a new crater) then sealing the area with a stain killer and finally repainting. I left another comment here addressing exactly this problem.
Is there a reason not to surface your form board with wax or even plastic wrap? Then you could just pop off the form without tugging at the bondo and sand.
one thing i wish bondo would do is have a substance that dissolves hardened bondo, so that you can clean up your toopls you used on bondo, once it's hard on that tool, it is impossible to clean it up completely
That's very helpful, thanks! I was wondering if you can use Bondo to fill in cracks on an exterior window sill? I know they also sell epoxy wood rot filler but it's very expensive.
TheCalgaryPainter You’re welcome! I’m not crazy about bondo on windowsills, but if you can carve out all damaged wood, and caulk and paint very thoroughly afterwards, I have known it to work. Sanding the nosing can be tricky, but small contained cracks/rot are manageable in a pinch 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter I'm just referring to severely weathered sills that have a bunch of fine cracks from ice freezing and thawing over several cycles per year. Maybe elastomeric/urethane caulking is better? I have a client who is thinking about replacing all their window sills but it really isn't that bad. No corners to be fixed either. I know that Lepages wood filler is water-based so that's not a good idea for a horizontal surface.
TheCalgaryPainter Okay I see what you mean. In that case I’d definitely agree- you can get away with just sealing cracks, especially with elastomeric. Might even help to gouge or widen cracks with a utility blade, work sealant down in, then sand flat and paint. Really lock it in there!
@@TheHonestCarpenter This looks like a good product to use before the wood filler. www.minwax.ca/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-hardener
Our window sills were rotten, I removed all old wood treated the rest with wood hardener and filled with a 2 part filler (same thing as Bondo) sanded back and painted, 3 years on it is still good.
The Honest Carpenter I am an American who has lived in Australia for 20 years. The first time I saw a tradesman use Builders Bog I asked them if it was the same as Bondo, got some funny looks 😂. Great videos btw.
Huge question for you. Im considering closing in my back patio. It's got a brick wall of 3 feet high and open on one side with an over hang roof. Square beams holding the roof . I'd like to add 2 large windows and a slide door. Would you recommend treated wood or untreated for this project? I think the framing will be the biggest pain attaching boards to brick.
I used to be a handyman wen I was younger and I switched to other repair work but its slow again so I started watching your videos to brush up on wats new but there is a house that has a slight mold smell cant trace it was already repairs made new roof etc and slight mold I have asthma they have the air cleaners running how can I trace thia mold smell its not enough for inspectors to complain its a house but I can't trace it mold specialists cannot trace it find out the source 😢
As others have said, way too much hardener. And BTW you can buy red hardener, then the mixed Bondo is pinkish. Put packing tape on your block and it won't stick.
I think you're arguing semantics. Yes, you could get by with less hardener if you have half a day to do the project and don't mind baking a sheet of cookies in between steps. But if you want that mix to firm up enough to withstand a vertical application in a short amount of time, there's nothing wrong with extra hardener. What matters is that you have your form board in place and know what you're doing enough to get the mix applied in short order. You just watched the video and see the result looks good. WTF do you care how much hardener the guy used? Pull up your pants and get to work making your own video.
That’s a little harder, Carlos. Oftentimes these pieces get replaced. But you could go with lighter filler products, and build back out the curve and sand it to finish.
@linda hobbs Thanks for watching! You can get Bondo at any lowes or home depot, or even most hardware stores. Something I've been using lately for simple exterior nail-hole filling is "Plastic Wood-X", also available in the same locations. It usually has a pink lid, and trowels on pink but turns white so you know when it's dry :)
Thanks, but you did not answer my question! I am 73 years young, and I am painting my two car garage. I think I know my answers, but not sure. So I would appreciate your expertise.
Okay gotcha, I must have misunderstood the question. How large are the cracks? Are any wider than, say, 1/4”? Because I think another option here could be Alex Plus caulk (exterior grade). It can be put on on multiple applications, doesn’t have to be sanded, and can then be painted as soon as it dries. I use caulk and wood filler more often than I use bondo for small gaps and hold filling. Does that help?
Don't use Bondo on those. Nail holes, if you have nothing else around, toothpaste. Cracks, you need tape or mesh, (else crack will reappeared) then follow with drywall compound.
Dude check out Minwax Stainable Wood Filler, its great for crap like that post with less work and it doesn't stink like chemicals. I've been using it for a couple years now, it really pays off inside where you don't want strong odors.
the doorframe to my basement stairs is chewed up (looks like a dog years ago ate pieces of the frame); do you recommend the same method and materials indoors?
@Rt L I've seen more dog-related damage than water damage over the years 😅. In some cases, yes you can definitely bondo repair. It gets tricky if the damage isn't on a flat part of the door, but instead is on a routed or shaped part of the door. Feel free to shoot a picture over to me at my website if you like and I'll try to take a closer look: www.thehonestcarpenter.com
Bondo does not expand or contract like wood to temperature variations like wood does. I think bondo may not be the right application for outdoor use as it may snap off. I think 2 part epoxy better
Max I don’t blame you. The stuff is like concrete. If I have something with a hard plastic edge, I’ll sometimes use that to apply. But I do like the control of a taping knife...just not my good one!
Five of these replacement columns had the exact same gash from forklift damage. I only filmed one to save time though. You can see the others in my porch post video
Nice job...first youtube video I've watched on using bondo...about to fill in hinge cutouts with a combo of poplar shims/bondo. First time I will use bondo. Very nice video, feel like I can do the job without watching any other video's! sub'd to help a fellow youtuber out!
Awesome, thank you how2q! I’ve used the same method for filling old hinge mortises before. Shims plus bondo is definitely the way to go-the shims do the big fill, and bondo takes care of the small gaps. Creates a strong, flat surface. Good luck with the project, and thanks for watching!
It's commonly known to use a pea sized amount of hardener to a golf ball sized amount of filler. Also, my container actually called out the amounts. Just sayin. Repair looks good though.
Yeah he definitely used way too much hardener and it's pretty crucial for certain jobs to get the right mix.I'm pretty sure that's why a few people disliked the video.
Hey Val, with bondo it really is best to wait until the area is dry if possible. There is a product called Abatron that is similar and can bond to wet surfaces, but it is far more expensive :(
@@TheHonestCarpenter Thank you. I need to fix the wood railing which surrounds my decks. The problem is I live in the Caribbean, where the humidity is about 90%, so even if it doesn't rain, I don't think it would be completely dry.
I have found that Bondo will not expand or contract . . . at all. For outside work, the patch often breaks off. It works very well inside though. Anyone else had the same experience?
@Mr. HVAC I have seen this occur on horizontal surfaces for sure (like thresholds). The stuff is very static. But, it hasn't seemed to be too bad on vertical applications like this one for me--perhaps because moisture can't work on it as directly
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Years ago I was getting a house ready to sell and as I was checking a backdoor screen door a gust of wind ripped the door out of my hand and split the wood jamb where the door opener had been anchored. I was now living out of town and was looking for a quick repair. I had heard that bondo could be used to repair wood so I decided to give it a try. I cut the broken piece of jamb out of the door frame and had my neighbor make me a new piece. Then I nailed it in place and still had two "slits" at the top and bottom of where the repair piece was attached. So to fill in the slits I used Bondo. It dried in a couple of hours and I sanded it and painted it. The next day I came back to check my repair and I couldn't even tell exactly where the repaired piece was, the repair was that good. Made a believer out of me.
The approach of attaching a block to the column to get a clean edge was ingenious.
I agree, end results look good. Been using this since 1964. I note your mix ratio is greater than I use, I look at the can. Most brands run a ratio of golfball size filler to pea size hardener. My mixing is done on a hard surface so hardener is not adsorbed by cardboard. I do not use the forms, nails etc and make my life easier. I just trowel it on oversize both sides. Get a drink, come back in ten minutes with my razor knife and trim it ( it will be leather hard and trims well), I let it get fully hard then sand. Auto body guys taught me about this product in the sixties. Oh yeah ! I find the best way to mix is with the putty knife on a piece of sheet metal. Just mull it back and forth a few times, no nail required and it is already on my blade ready to apply.
I bought a square of smooth tile (or marble) from Habitat that I keep in my shop. I use it for mixing Bondo. When done, the Bondo is easy to scrape off, and I can reuse the tile.
Good idea!
Much appreciate your step by step detailed explanation. Yours are always some of the clearest construction videos on the Tube!!
Thanks young man, I enjoy your videos and your way in teaching even at 75 I'm still learning. Wish you the best and good luck with your books , I'm sure you'll do fine. Be safe, Be well.
Thank you, Jerald! I appreciate your support 😄
I have been using Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty for years. It's available at Lowe's and Home Depot. Inexpensive. My dad used it and now my son uses it also. It sands easily and takes paint. It holds up in weather very well once painted.
Great repair job. I've used Bondo to repair a lot of exterior rot damage with good results. One tip, get yourself some cheap plastic spreader tools. If the big box store doesn't have them you can get combo pack at an auto parts store. Saves you a lot of grief cleaning up your tools. And easy on the hardener. The more you use the faster it hardens and is hard to work with. You can lay it on thick and shape with a rasp before it completely hardens. (Ha, I'm showing my "old school" fender repair tricks!)
I agree too much Bondo and too much hardener
You should be patching that with a clean knife and you only need one coat if you put it on heavy enough
I like to drill a few holes prior to adding the filler. It helps the filler bound to the wood permanently.
Good idea, Gerard! If the notch is deeper than 1/4", I'll also sometimes embed a screw in the area, with the head standing proud, so the filler can mold around that for an anchor
Nice
I wonder how many people have sawdust colored by wood stain which is then mixed with clear epoxy and used to fill nail holes and other applications . I keep 6 different quart sized ziplok bags of sawdust in different colors .
Not really needed bondo sticks to wood like super glue if the surface is clean. I live in the northeast and used to repair the bottom of my garage doors that were damaged from weathering. So much cheaper than buying new doors.
@Jack Boudreaux Central Massachusetts. I put it on the door about 30 years ago. Still there. You do have to sand it good prior to application and use good paint. If you did a single thick coat it probably would crack.
This is so great...I have quite a few things to fix..Adding that piece of wood to the edge, i would never have thought of..Thanks for taking the time to help dumbos like me x
funkysouldancer1 You’re welcome! Can’t remember who first showed me that, but it’s so effective 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter I painted my bedroom door after watching your video....Only been meaning to do it for two years lol ...Inspired
Using the block is a great technique but instead of brad nails try a strip of blue tape on the surface being repaired then use double stick tape on the block. The blue tape will ensure you have no surface damage to repair after your repair.
Also, to clean your blade, keep a clean rag on a flat surface available. Pour some acetone on the rag and clean the blade with that. A lot less work.
Thanks Ethan, exactly the info I needed - perfect! I've been trying to figure out how to fix the corner of an apt door without it looking like its been repaired, so I don't have to pay for it upon moving out. : )
WOW, you have really grown in your video format and editing in the past 4 years. I have recently subscribed to your channel, and have been watching your recent work. This was very helpful for my current issue. Great job.
Helpful tip: use plastic mud knives when using bondo for easiest cleanup by bending plastic to crack up the bondo. It comes off like butter after that.
Thanks bud. Doing this all day for the next few days. Old trim.
thanks for the tip, i usually knock out the post and replace it with a new one when it gets scratched like that.
Thank you so very much. I was at the point of using what I had, when I was younger. There is so many new items on the market, it made me even more confused. You have helped me so very much.
Thank you again
You're welcome, linda! Thanks for watching :)
Thanks for this, my good man. Very useful info.
finally, an honest carpenter.
🙏😄
Nice job. I keep old credit cards for disposable spreaders.
Thank you! That’s a good idea-I bet the hard plastic surface helps 🙂
Ames Creative It’s basically the same idea as your used credit cards, but I use hotel room keycards.
Yep. The unclean edge of his knives leaving low spots is driving me crazy.
Your end product is good, some advice from a Painter, you made up way too much Bondo and also used too much hardener. Sanding between coats isn`t advised, you end up with a lot of dust. Also Bondo is more effective in a dense application so I would advise buying a tube of finish putty instead of applying a thin skim of Bondo, Keep up the good work....
Thank you that’s exactly what I needed to fix my doorframe
Nicely done, thanks for sharing your tricks of the trade.
You’re welcome, thanks so much for watching!
Thought that was a pretty large amount of Bondo for that fix. Hope you utilized it in other repairs. Thanks for the video. Restoring an old digital piano and am going to try this.
Be advised ... Two part fillers like Bondo will set up in a relatively short time, but can continue to cure and give off gasses for several days or even weeks. Using excessive hardener, deep fills and fills exposed to high temperatures will increase this ex-gassing. Gasses that are trapped beneath a coat of paint or urethane will form pockets - everything from small bubbles to huge blisters - thus ruining the appearance of a repair.
Plastic fillers also become relatively impervious to moisture, unlike the surrounding wood which can shrink or swell with changes in moisture content. Eventually, cracks can appear at the edges of a fill, requiring additional filling and/or painting.
Uncured fillers can also bleed into surrounding wood, making it unsuitable for anything other than a paint finish.
I learned the hard way and will never again use a plastic filler where appearance matters. It's fine for repairs on tool sheds and dog houses or for making quick in-shop jigs and shaped sanding blocks, but not much else.
what would you use for this type of fix instead? I see people often use bondo on window sills etc. and many seem to say it works fine, but your comment makes me think I should try a different product.
@@cejanuary9378 Did you ever get a response
@@Mr0idontknow No, but I've since found a product line called Abatron that is more expensive but specifically made for this task and they use it in historical restoration for very important buildings, so it seems to be the best thing you can buy. If you want to spend the money, that is.
Its not really good for exterior use.@cejanuary9378
A paint scraper (razor blade) makes bondo removal from tools a breeze, even after it has dried, also 2 coats of shellac based primer is best for exterior bondo use.
For what its worth the mixture ratio is supposed to be a 1/4-1/2 inch long ribbon of hardener per golfball sized filler. The more you put in the faster it sets. You could probably dial ypur hardener back and get alot more time. You are adding way too much unless your hardener is old then you need more. Also use a plastic spreader and while the mixture still liquid set the scraper in the mixture and all the filler will peel off clean. Auto body background has taught me all things body filler!
That was my first thought. The auto body guys are going to be on here explaining the tips on Bondo usage. I think I'm going to try this Bondo for a few spots that have rotted around a door frame. I have more experience with auto body than wood working.
You got my sub dude now I can start my broken wood
Good video, JB Weld has a body filler that also works well. From the reveiws i read Bondo original is the #1 rated because of the pink color which shows how well its mixed.
Very helpful. My apartment maintenance "repaired" a gouged door threshold and it looks like gum stuck to the floor. Terrible. I'm going to redo it myself after seeing this.
I damaged my wall trying to get a huge couch through a narrow passage. I will be trying to repair it - first time doing a major house project. Wish me luck.
Will the bondo adhere to painted wood or should it be applied only to bare wood?
Thanks!
Awesome advice! I wonder if a layer of packing tape on your edge block of wood would help it separate easier? Would also be another thing to carry though...
This channel is invaluable to DIY homeowners!
You've really helped me with this repair, thanks for the demonstration
Thanks Will! I'm glad it was helpful :)
Excellent. Exactly what I needed to do.
I'm thinking about using Bondo to fill cracks in 4x4 posts on my deck. Will the Bondo hide with a solid stain?
Very helpful video
Great video. 😃 easy and to the point. 👌
Learnt something new. Thanks mate
I liked and subscribed! Good job.
Does this product only stick to bare wood or can you put it on painted wood? I have wood that's already painted that has different levels where it's been scraped previously or other imperfections.
I used it to repair the bottom of my father’s storm door that was deteriorating because of yearly winter weathering. That was about 20 years ago and the door is still there. Bondo remained stable under the paint.
Nice. Hope it lasts 20 more years. And if it doesn't, train the next generation to repair it the same way. :)
You are the best! I'm serious 🙂
I’ve found that if you use a pin nailer (23 gauge) and spray the guide wood with wd40 it comes off way easier. In a pinch you could use a crayon or wax as well. I also take a scrap 2x4 flat on my tailgate and use my orbital to sand it off my tools.
Great video! Thanks! I need do this exact repair at my house!
You’re welcome Julia! Good luck with the repair!
Fired for that Bondo mix😂
I am repairing the wood header where the joist meets. The header is rotted about half inch deep and 4 inch wide. After I repair/patch the header rotted area with Bondo, is it "strong" enough to get nails/screws into it for installing metal bracket and to hang joist?
You can also use your sander to clean those putty knives. My dad was a custom cabinet builder for years and that is how they cleanes their putty knives... fine grit on belt sander.
@Scott R Good call. I don't have a handy belt sander in the work van, but every now and then I'll pull out the orbital and hit the bondo taping knives. Where did your dad build cabinets at? My grandfather was a cabinet builder, as well as a great outboard mechanic in PA. He was good at pretty much everything he did :)
@@TheHonestCarpenter Yeah, My dad as well... Lafayette La.
How did you fill in the nail holes securing the block?
Years ago we replaced parts of a porch deck with bondo. We have never been able to get primer and paint to stick to it--it lifts off very quickly. Is there a special primer or something else I should try?
@Liz Deer : Bondo gives off gases as it cures. Long after simply becoming hard, it can still be ex-gassing to create blisters beneath fresh paint. Fresh Bondo also bleeds invisibly into surrounding wood and paint. It sounds like that's what's happened in your case. You might try sanding the fill and the surrounding paint down to clean wood (not so deep as to create a new crater) then sealing the area with a stain killer and finally repainting. I left another comment here addressing exactly this problem.
Nice work
Is there a reason not to surface your form board with wax or even plastic wrap? Then you could just pop off the form without tugging at the bondo and sand.
Or cooking Pam.
Great Video! How would Bondo stand up if used to repair stair edges?
wow this is an amazing skill!!
@EDU CHANNEL Thank you!!
for such a small work so much theory needed a project on paper🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍
Can I use Durham's I have to repair wood inside the house thanks
That’s very Sir ...thank you
Nice job
Amazing! Thank you for this tutorial.
You’re welcome, K!
I’m surprised it didn’t harden up rock solid while you were mixing it with that much hardener. But the repair looks great.
Would you use the same product for a larger area that's exterior like in a porch post that's exposed to the elements?
Best video ever! Thank you
one thing i wish bondo would do is have a substance that dissolves hardened bondo, so that you can clean up your toopls you used on bondo, once it's hard on that tool, it is impossible to clean it up completely
Use a piece of wax paper between the block and post. Peels right off dried bondo and no need to disturb the fix.
Over time, how does Bondo match up with the expansion of the surrounding wood from heat and moisture?
Mark Heslep, Good point. From my experience, it doesn't hold up. I posted exactly this in another comment here.
@@Niawen2011 Is there a type of wood filler you would recommend instead?
That's very helpful, thanks!
I was wondering if you can use Bondo to fill in cracks on an exterior window sill? I know they also sell epoxy wood rot filler but it's very expensive.
TheCalgaryPainter You’re welcome! I’m not crazy about bondo on windowsills, but if you can carve out all damaged wood, and caulk and paint very thoroughly afterwards, I have known it to work. Sanding the nosing can be tricky, but small contained cracks/rot are manageable in a pinch 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter I'm just referring to severely weathered sills that have a bunch of fine cracks from ice freezing and thawing over several cycles per year. Maybe elastomeric/urethane caulking is better? I have a client who is thinking about replacing all their window sills but it really isn't that bad. No corners to be fixed either. I know that Lepages wood filler is water-based so that's not a good idea for a horizontal surface.
TheCalgaryPainter Okay I see what you mean. In that case I’d definitely agree- you can get away with just sealing cracks, especially with elastomeric. Might even help to gouge or widen cracks with a utility blade, work sealant down in, then sand flat and paint. Really lock it in there!
@@TheHonestCarpenter This looks like a good product to use before the wood filler. www.minwax.ca/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-hardener
Our window sills were rotten, I removed all old wood treated the rest with wood hardener and filled with a 2 part filler (same thing as Bondo) sanded back and painted, 3 years on it is still good.
That's more hardener than I've ever seen used for that amount of bondo.
Mix some aceton in with your bondo, gives a longer work time and makes it more plyable.
Try putting tape on the block to prevent the Bondo from sticking.
For dry wall, is this putty better or the wood version?
Great tip! Thank you for sharing!
Same kind of product in Australia made by Selley’s called Builders Bog.
Thanks for writing in Gary! I love watching repair videos from overseas and seeing the brand differences 🙂
The Honest Carpenter I am an American who has lived in Australia for 20 years. The first time I saw a tradesman use Builders Bog I asked them if it was the same as Bondo, got some funny looks 😂. Great videos btw.
🤣 Thanks Gary!
I lived in Scotland for a while when I was younger and definitely had my share of miscommunications 🏴
Now i know what to look for in Bunnings..Thanks G.L.M.
Huge question for you. Im considering closing in my back patio. It's got a brick wall of 3 feet high and open on one side with an over hang roof. Square beams holding the roof . I'd like to add 2 large windows and a slide door. Would you recommend treated wood or untreated for this project? I think the framing will be the biggest pain attaching boards to brick.
I hope you went with treated at least on the bottom.
What keeps the bondo from adhering to your block of wood?
Cecil Berkley It tries to a little. But the majority of the material is on the damaged wood, and when I score beside the block it helps it separate
@@TheHonestCarpenter thanks
I wonder if they make silicone blocks
I used to be a handyman wen I was younger and I switched to other repair work but its slow again so I started watching your videos to brush up on wats new but there is a house that has a slight mold smell cant trace it was already repairs made new roof etc and slight mold I have asthma they have the air cleaners running how can I trace thia mold smell its not enough for inspectors to complain its a house but I can't trace it mold specialists cannot trace it find out the source 😢
Nice one
As others have said, way too much hardener. And BTW you can buy red hardener, then the mixed Bondo is pinkish. Put packing tape on your block and it won't stick.
I think you're arguing semantics. Yes, you could get by with less hardener if you have half a day to do the project and don't mind baking a sheet of cookies in between steps. But if you want that mix to firm up enough to withstand a vertical application in a short amount of time, there's nothing wrong with extra hardener. What matters is that you have your form board in place and know what you're doing enough to get the mix applied in short order. You just watched the video and see the result looks good. WTF do you care how much hardener the guy used? Pull up your pants and get to work making your own video.
How would you fix curved surfaces, like on moulding? thanks in advance
That’s a little harder, Carlos. Oftentimes these pieces get replaced. But you could go with lighter filler products, and build back out the curve and sand it to finish.
@@TheHonestCarpenter thanks.
Ho! Man is a big and expertacular job!!!🤣😂😂😂
Where can I purchase Bondo?
I need to know what can use to fill in nail holes and cracks on my garage.
Thanks for your video.
@linda hobbs Thanks for watching! You can get Bondo at any lowes or home depot, or even most hardware stores. Something I've been using lately for simple exterior nail-hole filling is "Plastic Wood-X", also available in the same locations. It usually has a pink lid, and trowels on pink but turns white so you know when it's dry :)
Thanks, but you did not answer my question! I am 73 years young, and I am painting my two car garage. I think I know my answers, but not sure. So I would appreciate your expertise.
Okay gotcha, I must have misunderstood the question. How large are the cracks? Are any wider than, say, 1/4”? Because I think another option here could be Alex Plus caulk (exterior grade). It can be put on on multiple applications, doesn’t have to be sanded, and can then be painted as soon as it dries. I use caulk and wood filler more often than I use bondo for small gaps and hold filling. Does that help?
Bondo was originally sold in auto supply places, it's original application was for car body repairs. You can also buy it at Walmart.
Don't use Bondo on those. Nail holes, if you have nothing else around, toothpaste. Cracks, you need tape or mesh, (else crack will reappeared) then follow with drywall compound.
Can you do a corner broken piece of a wooden exterior deck step?
Dude check out Minwax Stainable Wood Filler, its great for crap like that post with less work and it doesn't stink like chemicals. I've been using it for a couple years now, it really pays off inside where you don't want strong odors.
Don’t need to tac the wood jig, just use a table clamp 🤷
the doorframe to my basement stairs is chewed up (looks like a dog years ago ate pieces of the frame); do you recommend the same method and materials indoors?
@Rt L I've seen more dog-related damage than water damage over the years 😅. In some cases, yes you can definitely bondo repair. It gets tricky if the damage isn't on a flat part of the door, but instead is on a routed or shaped part of the door. Feel free to shoot a picture over to me at my website if you like and I'll try to take a closer look:
www.thehonestcarpenter.com
Nice work.
I’d like to know how to do this with brick!
Bondo does not expand or contract like wood to temperature variations like wood does. I think bondo may not be the right application for outdoor use as it may snap off. I think 2 part epoxy better
I mix it with a shim and apply with something I can throw away. Hate goo on my tools
Max I don’t blame you. The stuff is like concrete. If I have something with a hard plastic edge, I’ll sometimes use that to apply. But I do like the control of a taping knife...just not my good one!
Thx for that reply
Nice, muds going to be on fire.
Ok I saw you mix heaps of that stuff ...but only used small amount to patch that chip
Five of these replacement columns had the exact same gash from forklift damage. I only filmed one to save time though. You can see the others in my porch post video
Nice job...first youtube video I've watched on using bondo...about to fill in hinge cutouts with a combo of poplar shims/bondo. First time I will use bondo. Very nice video, feel like I can do the job without watching any other video's! sub'd to help a fellow youtuber out!
Awesome, thank you how2q! I’ve used the same method for filling old hinge mortises before. Shims plus bondo is definitely the way to go-the shims do the big fill, and bondo takes care of the small gaps. Creates a strong, flat surface. Good luck with the project, and thanks for watching!
Where in North Carolina are you?
Thanks Gary! I've lived and worked all over NC, but I operate mainly out of the Raleigh area.
It's commonly known to use a pea sized amount of hardener to a golf ball sized amount of filler. Also, my container actually called out the amounts. Just sayin. Repair looks good though.
Too much hardener! It will work, but may set faster than you can work with it.
Yeah he definitely used way too much hardener and it's pretty crucial for certain jobs to get the right mix.I'm pretty sure that's why a few people disliked the video.
What happens if the wood is not completely dry?
Hey Val, with bondo it really is best to wait until the area is dry if possible. There is a product called Abatron that is similar and can bond to wet surfaces, but it is far more expensive :(
@@TheHonestCarpenter Thank you. I need to fix the wood railing which surrounds my decks. The problem is I live in the Caribbean, where the humidity is about 90%, so even if it doesn't rain, I don't think it would be completely dry.
Use you brain that's it🤣🤣🤣🤣
I like bonding, I just wish it didn’t have such a strong and noxious odor
I have found that Bondo will not expand or contract . . . at all. For outside work, the patch often breaks off. It works very well inside though. Anyone else had the same experience?
@Mr. HVAC I have seen this occur on horizontal surfaces for sure (like thresholds). The stuff is very static. But, it hasn't seemed to be too bad on vertical applications like this one for me--perhaps because moisture can't work on it as directly
Too much hardner this is a joke but he got it done
He said it would speed up the reaction, but you have to have a plan and work fast cause when you add too much hardener it hardens very quickly.
Why does your material list say bondo all purpose and bondo wood filler which is better I noticed you used all purpose