Chevy / GMC Code P2135 TPS Problems
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- In this video I repair a 2009 Chevy truck 1500 5.3 with a P2135. Refer to your shop manual for the proper procedure on repairing your vehicle.
TSB Link : engine-codes.co...
If that link is broke just Google this to find the TSB : TSB #11-06-04-007B - Reduced Engine Power DTC P2135
This video is how I discovered your channel, it saved my ass last year. Nothing like driving to work one morning at 20 mph and driving home at 20 mph. Spent my last $50 on a tps sensor followed this video 100% and boom I was back to normal.
Great Video. I took my 2012 Suburban into a local repair shop. They did a diagnostic and determined a TSB was likely the cause. When they gave me the info on the TSB it was clear based on the engine RPO that it did not apply. I am ordering the kit and planning to swap it out tomorrow. Not positive it will fix the issue but worth a try before going to the dealer. Even if it doesn't work, Your video with the step by step instructions with the level of detail is one of the best for us DIYers. Thanks for taking the time to create this. Based on the likes and comments, you have helped a lot of people and saved us a lot of money. I like the comment about having to clear the codes to go above 20mph. That is me right now!
Shouldn’t have to clear them because codes ought to be reset already, because you should disconnect your battery before changing a sensor.. Hope you did! anyway.. disconnecting a battery will clear codes.
Just watched this video because I was experiencing the same symptoms with my 2012 Tahoe. Low power/limp mode, chk engine light, P1235 code and all. Followed all your steps and now my Chevy is running like a dream. Thank you for your thorough instruction, painstaking effort and clarity.
Damn bro, that throttle body looked brand new. Im glad you are still busy during this period of change. Hope you and your family stay safe
$ff$$$t t t t/t//t// t t t5trrrrrr====r turret/ ///$CFL$
Great. Just had P1235. The module is riveted on to the TB, but a module with 4 screws and nyloc nuts is available. Fortunately, the problem cleared after cleaning the TB (was nasty), and cleaning the connector pins with electronic cleaners. Nice to see the repair, thanks.
I like how he thoroughly explains the complete process with everything, this guy rocks!!
I cleaned my TB and it started idling crazy and the rpms was off at high speed. This video educated me on the relearn process!! I purchased a Foxwell scan tool and fixed it in 5 mins. Thanks for this awesome video.
Which Foxwell did you buy?
One of the best mechanic on utube. Thanks for all you do for me.
This is by far the most imformitive throttle body repair video ever.
Just completed this process on my 2009 Sierra 2500 HD (50K miles). So far so good. Thanks for the video. Great job.
Eric, your lighting and camera work is some of the best on youtube. I like your approach to explaining and then to the fix. easy to follow along and engaging. and your 5 parts on the Subaru was your best to date. my vote is more of those multi-part episodes. keep up the good work.
Hey Ryan Gilpin thanks. I tell ya that sooby job sure took a lot to do. The work was easy but a lot of moving the camera around and stuff, almost doubles the actual time to do the job...
Thank you Eric, just fixed my truck (2011 Silverado) yesterday thanks to your video. I love your videos, and as a mechanic wannabe, am able to use some of what you show.
I just did that exact same repair on my 08 gmc sierra haven't took to gm to get what you were taking about flashed or what ever took a day for my engine light to go back off im not a mechanic or claim to be one really enjoyed your video i hope i have no more problems with it bn driving it for 3 days no truck runs great
im waiting for the part to be delivered so i can install it. thank you for making a video in this style. step by step and offering tips and real world knowledge during the process. i will now be very confident when im installing the part and dont feel the need to watch 50 youtube videos before taking on a project. love the format and information !
Good walk-through Eric O I have done 100s of these never Had the system say Disagree its very rare to replace the Throttle Position Sensor and it Disagree and have to replace the entire Throttle Body @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
great videos - some of the best auto repair vids on You Tube. Nice balance between diagnosis, repair and education. Keep up the great work. Thanks.
Thanks monomille1 :)
@@SouthMainAuto Have watched many of your videos. You do a great job. I purchased a used 04 Yukon last fall. It is in great shape in and out. I have the same issue going on. I have replaced the sensor, then the throttle body and the foot pedal assembly. Still get the problem from time to time. Under the driver side, there is a plate with several ground wires going to it. I cleaned that all up and thought it would solve the problem. No such luck. I would like to give this truck to my son but I can't seem to get this problem solved. Do you have any other suggestions for me to try? I would bring it to you and have you get to the bottom of it, but I live in northern Indiana and that would be a long haul to get the vehicle to you. Any help you could give would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Thanks for the excellent video, very helpful. Solved my P2135 Throttle Position Sensor problem. Now I don't have to drive and erase codes at the same time anymore lol.
Just wanted to say thanks for saving me some money , did one on my Escalade but did have a pretty high idle after I finish putting the new one on, you touched the pedal ( 2200 ) and that where it would stay till it got shut off , got it reflashed and that fixed the problem 🤙
Hey, Eric. Just wanted to thank you for this video. I had this sensor fail last winter, chevy replaced it free of charge. I guess you get the first one free from them. Apparently there were issues with the factory ones. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge, I have been working on my own vehicles since my dad starting teaching me as a kid. These new car's with all the electronics are a challenge.
Eric. I have a GMC Yukon Hybrid with a 6.0 engine, and 185,000 Kms on it. (Canada Eh) Love the truck and pull a 6,000 Lb Travel Trailer with it. Works great. Recently it started to "shift harshly" but the Hybrid Trans is more of a CVT and does not really shift at low speeds. It also started to have a sometimes severe acceleration lag when adding engine power. I scanned it with my Modis Ultra, no codes, but a TPS position of about 11% at idle. Scanner Danner mentions normal is about 6%. I thought maybe a TPS Sensor like your video shows, but the scan tests were OK. It also had an annoying intermittent "Fish Bite" at idle. I cleaned the throttle body and once the idle settled down it was at 6%. The "Fish Bite", Acceleration lag, and "Harsh Shift Feel" are all gone now. I think that the Hybrid versions are more adversely affected by a dirty Throttle Body, due to starting the engine and "blending" the power between the electric drive motor and engine WITHOUT a Torque Convertor, than an engine with just a normal automatic transmission. I thought you might be interested.
ALSO..... this might be a small thing to you, BUT, I find the various types of connectors a bit difficult to unplug due to the many different types of latching mechanisms. This TPS has a Grey Locking Tab PLUS a Black Toggle Clip. Just a thought for a quick & easy but helpful video would be a close-up of some of the various types of connectors, locks, and how you PROPERLY remove and re-install them. (Pocket Screwdriver, and ???)
I love your Chanel and being an Aircraft Maintenance Engineer and repairing and overhauling both Piston and Turboprop Jet engines for nearly 40 years, I like your approach to troubleshooting and finding the "Root Problem" very good and interesting. The Aviation Industry has a lot of Parts Changers..... very expensive parts, and some never learn.
Keep up the good work and Bravo!
Hi buddy. I had 2135 reduced power. Every time I hit a bump. Thinking it was a lous wire. Replaced the throttle body. New plug. Still didn't fix it. Here the crank and run fuse was way to lose . Bent the tabs out some to titen it up. It fixed it. And also had a 1516 also. Been running like new. For 7 months now. My truck is a 2006 colorado 2.8 😊
Eric O, saving my tail again. Family member had this issue - replaced the TPS for $103, service shop wanted $378 and GM dealer wanted $456. Looks like we owe someone some ice cream. Thank you.
Yep, I have to do my son's wife's car.Her cold came up.I just watched you video.Looks like it's pretty easy.Thanks for the video.Just have to order the part and I'm all set.Thanks for the video
I like this guy! He does a good job and explains stuff really well. Thanks for the video! Great stuff!
Great video. After watching, I did the same work on my 2011 Sierra. Simple. 52 bucks for the TPS kit shown from a Chevrolet dealer, 30 min to do the work.
This is definitely my favorite channel on you tube
Very helpful. Very educational and pro job/video. Thanks. 356 thousand miles on my 07 Silverado. Only had to do this three times in mine so far. A GOOD OLD TRUCK. Still runs like new. I like the china garbage remark. Thanks again my american friend.
I've been dealing with this off and on for over a year, thanks for the video
Used your video to help me do this on a 2010 GMC Serria. Worked perfect. Thanks for the video
Eric thank you so much for all the videos I love watching your show!! I have a bit an issue with my 2007 chevy cobalt ls. I keep getting the error Engine power reduced! Code P2135 Throttle/pedal position sensor/ Switch A/B voltage correlation. I replaced the carburetor and new gasket (ACDelco) from carid.com. Went to chevy dealership and had the PCM reflashed...No change still getting the same code. So I replace the pick tail that connects to the carburetor still no change. So I decided to replace the purge vale just for giggles... no change so then I purchased a new throttle pedal position sensor from the chevy dealership and still no change! So then I replaced the spark plugs from chevy still getting the same error and code message Engine power reduced! Code P2135 Throttle/pedal position sensor/ Switch A/B voltage correlation. I watched your video on this 2009 chevy truck and would like your opinion if you think that this would solve my issue. Any feedback or thoughts would be highly appreciated. Thank's ......Jim
I did everything you did and still get the code from time to time....🤦♂️
Thanks for the video. Great job as always. I'm still a fan of the cable actuated throttle body.
Cable!!!??? What!? That was way to complicated lol
Michael Herbert I
Delicate! Sensitive! Precise!
Not weak.
👍
The reflash increases the failure to longer than 2 seconds, so it is less sensitive to a glitch in the 2 sensors.
Oh ok got ya. I figured it was something similar to that. 1st ones are lasting 30 to 70k so If they get that out of a second they are ready for the scrap heap around here lol
Just changed out my TPS using your vid. Awesome job. Thanks.
Thank you for posting this video . I have used your content in the past to properly diagnose/repair issues. I had this issue happen to a 2010 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.8 liter at working going to try to see if this will fix the issue
Did it?
My neighbors 2009 Tahoe has been driving terribly. It revs really high without shifting gears and has a loud exhaust leak sound. I did a tune up for him including cleaning the throttle body, new plugs and wires. Now it's staying at whatever rpm I send it to. If I give it a little gas, it stays as that same speed as if it has cruise control on, when it doesn't. When I hit the brakes it will slow down. Also when it downshifts the rpms will surge up and it will try to accelerate until I hit the brakes, then rpms come back down. It won't shift past second gear because the transmission is probably shot. But I've also heard of clogged cats causing the same symptoms... Minus the new symptom that has been introduced since cleaning the TB. Ive heard the throttle position can be relearned after cleaning it by letting it idle and driving it. But I can't take it over 40mph for any sustained length of time as it won't shift past second gear. Any help is appreciated as this car is becoming quite a problem child
Nice - I wouldn't have done it like that only because I don't know how, but I do now , you seem to have a real attachment to GM products. I wonder why they dropped the coolant hoses at the bottom of the throttle body, I thought it prevented them from icing up in the winter. 👍
Yeah I just Love my Chevy's **cough** I dunno why the heated TB went bye, bye? Maybe because they are always in the shop where it is warm? Haha no, no JK I know you are a GM guy so I gotta get my stabs in when I can lol
Hello Eric, I drive '05 Chevrolet C5500 8.1 Vortec, Which is attached to my 35' Motorhome. Anyway, I have this code P2135 and another one which didn't show up this time,
Which was P0220, Raw code: 0220
ECU: 10
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) sensor B/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor B - circuit malfunction
So, first I just replaced the black part which you show taking off of the Carburetor.
I had to drill out the rivets and install New one using the nuts and bolts provided, as well as I replaced the gas pedal with a GM Genuine Part.
We went on a 2,300 mile trip up to Niagara Falls and back and just about every day the engine would go into limp mode and we'd have to pull off of the side of road and use my VeepOBDII Scanner and go in and clear the codes and then we were able to get back on the road usually within 15-20 minutes and then it would run great the rest of the day.
When we were up in New Hampshire we had a mechanic who specifically was a specialist dealing with this issue. He checked everything out and stated it was most likely coming from the off brand TPS sensor that I replaced on the Throttle Body.
So when we finally made it home I ordered a new
WHOLE Throttle Body on it with a GM Genuine OME part.
Well, today I had the engine running just to warn it up because it had sat for a few days and then I got that code again.
Do I need to have this new equipment I put on "Flashed" by a GM Certified Mechanic?
This RV going into limp mode all the time is getting old!! Especially if you're going up a steep inclined in a mountainous region OR even going down hill! Thanks in advance for any help!
Very good job 👍 👍👍 👍 very good teaching good teacher
Nice video 👌 👌👌
Damn I wish i seen your video sooner I do mobile diagnostics and told this shop they need a throttle body I didn't know they had rebuild kits. Thanks
They don't make the kits for everything yet but I have been able to get them for more and more GM's as of lately. Don't mess with aftermarket garbage though just FYI
Hey folks. Please use only GM throttle body position sensors.
4 different shops and $4,200 later I took the tps apart to see the difference between Hitachi, Doorman and GM. They are different. And the difference had me spending money like mad at 4 different shops. New TB, new gas pedal assembly and throttle control module. New wire harness and BCM.
All it was turned out to be that Doorman and Hitachi failed rather quickly due to the design of the TPS blades throwing the voltage off. Doorman was junk in 15 minutes. Hitachi lasted about 3 months.
Threw a GM complete TB assembly on and it has worked for over a year with zero problems.
Again, I replaced entire TB assemblies. Then just the TPS. And then headaches.
Drive however far you have to to get GM parts. Your welcome
just did one today with your help ! Thanks Eric!
+Francis Gauvin Cool!
Excellent video. This is a great help and appreciated.
I got the 2135 fault code on my Mercedes Benz E350, things tested good at the dealership so they cleaned the throttle body. The Technician said it had varnish and gunk. If the code comes back they suggest changing the throttle actuator or body, which is expensive. Thanks for the good advice.
Seems like a very common problem. Keeps happening to my wife's 08 HHR even after changing the throttle body and sensor along with the gas pedal. You would think GM would fix the problem. Having engine power reduced happen when going 70mph on the highway and slowing down to 5MPH is very dangerous
Thanks man , very get info I appreciate it ✌🏽
Just did my truck and it went great!! Thank you, bud!!
Is it not possible that the carbon was preventing proper Throttle position causing the code and just cleaning the throttle fixes the TPS position error?
No I wouldn't think so Matt. This code is just for variation between the 2 TPS's in the TB It's pretty common on these. If I wanted to waste a bunch of time you can usually watch one or the other drop right off to zero while the other stays working. It may take days though to catch it.
The CAM sensors can do this and the water Temp switch or the Transmission going bad is the likely culprit the Water Temp sensor actually picks up a bad torque converter and or solenoids and interprets this as the TPS because the trans is not responding at the right RPM levels. Had this on many many Express vans with LE trans both the big one and the lighter LE trans. Why this occurs people really have to take it up with GM because GM was producing terrible transmissions defective from the factory. I had several where the fix is to switch out the shift pressure switch and the solenoids and the torque converter. There are several kits on the market to fix that nutty shifting problem that also comes up as the TPS codes or similar like codes.
How to fix my Silverado I replace the throttle body , gas pedal and still have the same problem any tips ?
The dreaded reduced power mode, it's common on the earlier models, usually the pins on the circuit board.
What do you mean? I replaced the sensor and still have this issue from time to time. Looking for other things to check and replace if needed. Thanks
I got one at Napa and install it in my truck , work great. I also install a new wire harness. P.roblem solved
Great vid! My truck went into limp mode the other night with check engine light on and stabilitrak light on. Code P2135 was the code. I replaced the tps sensor after watching your video and followed all the steps. When I first started the truck it idled to 1500rpm and then back down to normal. 2nd time starting it jumped straight to 3000 rpm and stayed there and this has been how it continues to run. Any idea as to what I did wrong or if there is another problem?
Yeaah! I know..but i just diagnosed the car..boss order it! Maan thats a lot of oil change! I jsut have 6 year doing this ..i dont have any ASE on my shirt but i think i can beat it.am always updating mysefl reading and whatching trainning specially scope tranning...i dream having my own shop..keep up the good work man u doing great!
Best tool you can have it the one between your ears. Just be proactive and learn as much as you can and never stop. I don't have any ASE's on my shirt either and never have. But I do have some pretty sweet pocket shirts if that counts. To me the pocket shirt is handier that a shirt with a patch on it :)
Thank you, 20 TECHS at the chevy dealer didnt know this
What code scanner do you use?
It’s super nice, great video!
I have a 2009 Envoy. The car was going into limp mode with a code P2135. (rough idle, stalling, ..... 2 times same day). Replaced the throttle body with a new Bosch unit for the 2009 Envoy. The old TB was fairly well carboned. I performed the relearn, it is idling at 700-800 after about 5 seconds after starting. However, when you start to press the accelerator, the car leaches because the engine jumps to 1200 RPM. You just have to barely move the pedal for this to occur. If you are moving and stop, wait 5 seconds, the idle will return to 700-800. If you are in park and you place the car in drive, sometimes the car will increase to 1200 rpm as noted above. I did not have this issue with the old Throttle body. I have driven the car 50 miles with speeds of 50 mph with many stops and go, I am not seeing any improvements. Any ideas? I can't find anything on the internet describing this issue I am experiencing when replacing the throttle body.
The primary active ingredient in SeaFoam is naptha. Naptha is one of the few chemical that will dissolve carbon build up.
Years ago I used SeaFoam to soak an IAC valve and the carbon just flew off of it. I've been sold on it since.
Jeez, that GM bulletin has some serious overkill information in it... "and this here is how you use your hands!"
Worked great on my 2011 GMC 5.3 with ~130K miles. I didn’t get the reflash done, now after warmup it will idle high - it has to do with the ECM learning over time on the dirty Throttle Body - I’ll have to use the 3min idle/60sec off/3min idle relearn deal and let it run some miles and time to see if it clears up. I know it’s not a vacuum leak as I did the carb spray trick and nothing happened.
Thank you for this video! Just did my 2004 Yukon. Slightly different because I had to cut the rivets off (used a hacksaw on the top of the rivet).
After getting the four rivets off were you able to use the clips or did you have to use bolts and nuts?
Make sure you only use a GM screw driver too.
Justin P Mr good screw driver & Mr good wrench & get that great GM feeling
Great video! i watched the video several times. I know I have a different year than the 1500 you have in the video. The replacement part you have is totally different than what I was offered from NAPA. NAPA was offering a small cap instead of the cover you removed from the throttle body. Would you know if there was a replacement sensor only application or a similar application in your video? Thanks.
I have the same case scenario..but with suburban 2010 .replace the hole thing! There is no need to reflash!..u have verus just go to functinal test set the idle.....u good man...who long u been doing car fixing?
Ahhh to bad you did the whole TB, the sensor is really cheap. I have been workin on cars since I was old enough to hold a wrench haha. I have owned my own shop since I was 25 (ten years now) but I grew up in this industry. My parents have owned a shop since I was 1... so a while I guess
The reflash is to increase the time parameter for setting this code, to more than the current 2 seconds.
Great video....
I've got a 2012 1500. 5.3. have a recurring issue where if you push the throttle to accelerate it does a very rough downshift and acceleration. only does this at mid throttle.. light or full throttle it behaves OK.
also... if you use the cruise control to accelerate it downshifts and accelerate smoothly.
was thinking maybe the sensor on the gas pedal is bad...
I ordered the part you installed in this video accidentally... any suggestions on which is more likely. inside get the AC Delco part.
Great for the diy guy. But for the time spent cleaning it, would replacing it be easier ?
What type of code interface would be good for a part time hobby mechanic Thanks keep up the great work
is the brake light and traction control Stabilitrak light related to the Fault??
Anyone have an answer for this?
So I have the same truck.., I’ve been having a funny idle going on almost like slight back pressure ..no codes..just fixed a vacuum leak, Changed fuel pump, injectors, map sensor , maf sensor, air filter, entire evap system, coil packs , wires, and I’ve made sure it’s all GM certified yet I’m still having a very slight rough idle especially in park on the brake…. At times the idle drops close to zero at a stop feeling as if the engine is about to shut down then it picks back up ….. it always smooth on the highway
Can this be done without the computer system you have? I have seen videos of other shops doing relearns by disconnecting the batteries and starting and stopping the motor with whole throttle body replacements.
Great job! Could you please mention if there was anything visibly wrong with the old TPS or if maybe cleaning the throttle body was actually what fixed this problem?
You can't be serious. Did you watch the video? His code reader showed the change in the 2 TP sensors from before and after. Cleaning didn't fix anything. Good mechanics never put dirty parts back on if there is time to clean them..
@@x-man5056 don't be a dick
So helpful, thank you!!!
great video. if idle relearn doesn't work and your 2500 to 3000 at idle most mechanical shops with a programmer can reset your idle in a few minutes
Quality video and easy to understand. Thanks!
My situation: 2013 5.3 2wd Silverado that idles high at startup, also idles high for about 4-5 seconds when you stop at a light.
Its died on me a couple of times after i come to a stop, fires right up tho.
No codes, no lights.
Does this TPS fix address thes issues?
Thanks again
Nice that the unit can be repaired.
Great Video!
Great video, what scan tool was used for this video?
I know I'll find a ton of valuable information in this video...I'd bet the house on it before I even click on it.
Yup cleaned mine out and fixed the problem, thanks
Very good and informative. Thanks
I have 2005 HD 2500
Most frustrating issue ever!
Found a video about a ground wire.
Re-routed the ground to a better location.
Problem solved!!
None of this other stuff worked
The one under the drivers door rusts and the one at the back of the block are usually the culprits.
realy, really big help. thank you much.
Ever worked on a 2005-2006 Pontiac GTO with this code? I've replaced my throttle body and my accelerator pedal assembly, replaced maf sensor, pigtailed the connectors at the throttle body and maf sensor, tried a new ecm, pinned out the harness.... I'm about ready to park her in a lake lol
Great video. I bought a new throttlebody AC Delco but the sensor is mounted with 4 rivets. Have you had to do rivets where you drill the rivets out and replace with bolts? Or do the new metal clips fit after drilling the rivots? Thanks!
I have a 2007 Chevy Silverado with the P2135 code. I replaced the whole throttle body with sensor and it still doing the reduced power engine.
Probably the pedal sensor
I replaced sensor and pedal... same issue... what do I check or replace now?
Today I got a code for the throttle body sensor or what not. After looking online people said cleaning it out would help. There was no engine problems at this point everything was running smooth it was just the check engine light I wanted to get rid of. After taking it apart and cleaning it i cranked it and it goes up to 3k rpms and scared me I looked online and people said oh it has to relearn itself crank for 3 min and shut off for a min repeat well it stayed between 2500 and 3k rpms the whole time never going back down. So I just gave in went and bought a whole new throttle body with new sensor on it. After I installed it i cranked it up and it went to q500 rpms and then leveled back down to 500 or 600 like it usually was. So i thought I had fixed it so i shut it off and when i cranked it back up it was back at 3k rpms again doing the same thing. Does anyone know what may be the problem. Crazy it worked right the first crank after replacement but since then its back to running high rpms.
Cool video. Thanks for posting. I want to buy a used 4x4 pickup or SUV for my ranch. I probably will never sell it, just fix/replace things as they wear out. Can you recommend the best years to purchase for a lifetime owner?
I've used Sea Foam products ALL my life. And no other chemical name has my approval more. 3M (Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing) is also another name I "yet" trust.
Great...just had this happen to my 2013 Tahoe.....485.00 was the charge to replace the throttle body, never was given the option to just to do the sensor. looking it up I can get the oem whole body for 165 and the kit for 45.00.
Another awesome video. Thanks and keep up the good work
Great videos! I've watched just about all of them. You don't seem to work on any Fords. Mainly GM;s, Chryslers and imports. Are they boring, or do the not break down?
Well I can only work on what my customers bring in, maybe they are smart and don't buy Fords!? Haha no JK, I do my share of Ford work but just may not record them. You are right though, mostly GM, a lot of Chrysler, and Asians....
Must be built Ford tough!!
Lol ummm yeah must be haha
Talking of Fords. Lol. I replaced the TPS on my 2006 F150 5.4. TPS is a separate unit on throttle body which was easily replaced. Cleaned TB, grounded pos to neg batt cables to deplete ECU caps and idled for 10 mins to relearn idles and done. Much easier than GM.
excellent job Eric!
Not sure if anyone would still respond to this post but my code reader is saying "Not Plausible" rather than "Correlation" What's the difference?
hi there. really enjoy the videos. I was wondering do you have or get any Chevy Malibus with the same issue. I have that same issue and can't figure it out. however this sounds like a solid solution but, I'm wondering if this will apply to my car as well. Could you possibly answer that for me. I have put too much money into because of this problem. I've also talked to GM and they just give me and all loyal customers the run around. It is very frustrating. Any info would definitely help. thanks in advance.
Very helpful video im going to do my truck has that code check engine light
This helped, thank you 🤘🏼
Thanks great video. Question: Is the replacement TPS an improved version of the TPS installed when car was manufactured? Does the biz about re-flashing the PCM reduce the probability of this problem returning?
I have a 2007 Chevy Equinox. Every once in a while I get the P2135 and the reduced engine power, Stabilitrak off, TCS off messages. The TSB that applies to my Equinox does not include reprogramming the PCM
Use control plus to max screen image to help us see the screen next time... ccontrol &plus or minus, at the same time
Does the truck still need to be reflashed if you replace the complete throttle body assembly, or only if you install this repair kit onto the old throttle body? Or will you need a reflash in both cases? I'm about to install a completely new throttle body assembly this afternoon and I'm not sure if I'll need to take the truck to the dealer for a reflash or not.
Hi Eric, what scanner program are you using? I’m in the market for a newer system.
I'm doing a SMA marathon! On to the next video. :)
+wyattoneable Haha I see that!
+wyattoneable ditto
Thank you for the video. However when this happened to me the light not only came on but the engine rpms were going nuts engine noise got loud but no response on accelerator. anyone else experience this violence? Again this video was great.
I wish you were around me lol. My Silverado has this p1516 code. Replaced the tps cleaned everything on the grounds etc. It's a dangerous thing going 60 mph and bam lose everything.