Just did 150 - sheet job in Phoenix Arizona, used 2 cases of buttboards. Used 12 fewer boxes of mud and saved time both hanging and finishing. Large great room ceiling and master bedroom ceiling came out perfectly flat. Would recommend blocking the ceiling joints at the wall with a 2x4, to stop the uplift of the drywall at the wall angle. Highly recommend this product.
So you saved around $120 on mud, but when you factor in the cost of Butt Board, $155 for a case, you ended up spending an additional $200 on materials.
Labor costs…. That is everything. Stop getting so caught up in material price. You spend more on tools and materials so that job is easier, completed correctly in a faster time = you impress GC and make money. It’s not hard. Get out of your own way and innovate! Do something new to better your business. Keep on doing it like your grandpa and you won’t have anything more than him. Work smarter not harder? Cheers.
@@sidsid9808 any business owner would answer your question "YES" even though it is a completely wrong question.... the premise is not that you are firing people... it is that if you have a crew of five guys that finish the job in 10 days usually, now those 5 guys finish that same job in 9 days (for example) while you still charged the same amount for a job to the customer... you are now taking the next job ONE DAY EARLIER than you would have otherwise, so you are making money faster.... those 5 guys are still employed the same way but are more efficient u get that, right?... say you get it
some incredible detail work in that home .you are not eliminating butt joints...how-to create more efficient butt joints for taping & hanging he would never break on the same area as shown.
@SomeDumUsrName I did, it's meant to pull the Butt Joints in so you can fill it. But for what it's worth you may aswell just cut your own OSB and skim over the joint regardless. It will look just fine. And you save on the insane cost of over engineered OSB Butt board
@SomeDumUsrName OR , he understands sheetrock has been buttjoined on the edge seams for about 75 years now in millions of homes , so the cutesy curve bevel in buttboard is gimmicky nonsense and rip your own OSB and save money .... sheetrock has been buttjoined for decades in every home in America , no bevel gimmick needed and has worked just fine
@@jewsh519 of course it would , we've been using "scabs" all our lives in carpentry and building ..... anytime you need to splice a seam not landing on a stud or joist or rafter , you add a scab board .... it is BEST NOT to use a scab board on anything you might WALK on though , you definitely prefer to land on a joist or rafter , but we have used scab boards forever in building
@@jewsh519 no it won't ... to "pull the ends in" the scab board would have to be beveled , the whole idea of this "buttboard" system ... if you put a flat scab board behind sheetrock edge seams , those edge seams will NOT be "indented beveled in for mud" like the factory beveled edges of sheetrock seams are .... all sheetrock buttjoints are flat , not beveled on the stud , or with a regular scab .... and my thinking is "I don't care" because it will tape and bed just fine , beveled or not
Amazing! That’s so easy! Now I can save money on sheets, especially if we hang more then 350 sheets a day with my crew, and we save time forks my finishers, that is a time and money saver! The finishers will require those buttboards at the job. DrywallNation thanks for sharing those things.
LOL... Check the cost of them.... they're not FIXED like a wall stud so they can have movement and lead to a cracked butt joint.... And if the stud before the joint is out it's not going to fix that... Cardboard shims are cheap and easy, make a butt joint that doesn't need busted out, and is solid (no movement)
Wow. As a DIY homeowner I'm sold. I like it. It'll be interesting to see if it takes off with the pros. I think it could go either way. I definitely see the higher end more custom home guys taking it up. The production side though, it has to actually be faster and cheaper to take off.
LOL... Check the cost of them.... they're not FIXED like a wall stud so they can have movement and lead to a cracked butt joint.... And if the stud before the joint is out it's not going to fix that... Cardboard shims are cheap and easy, make a butt joint that doesn't need busted out, and is solid (no movement)
@@2869may think critically about what you just said after watching how they were installed. the perimeter and the field were still screwed into studs the only thing different with the OSB "butboard" is now the panels are joined together rather than being joined to the same stud any force that would create a crack at that seam (bear in mind I'm talking about an earthquake level of force here) would create cracks in any application. further studs do have movement houses wrack when they settle that wracking force is what causes cracks in the seams of drywall joints the benefit of scabbing the sheets together like this translates the wracking forces along the entire panel saving that specific joint granted the horizontal seams will still show signs of wear when the house settles but the one vertical joint will be fine save for the horizontal line. you're dead right about the cost though it isn't worth the price especially since you could make them with a sheet of OSB and a skill saw plus router if you don't feel comfortable dragging a skill saw blade to create the indent. (yes it's dangerous but no more dangerous than you let it be.)
@@willhwiltjr I can see both sides of it.... But the joint being "floating" could be positive and negative as it not attached to a fixed structural stud... Not that it would happen often, (kids room, hall way) but it wouldn't take much pressure on the joint to pop the screws on the backer board with nothing behind it to support it... That would be rare... I'm reaching...LOL We used the cardboard shims for years and years and very rarely had to bust out a butt joint... but finishing behind sh!trockers that never touched a shim, we often had to triple butt joints You could also create the indent with a table saw and a dado blade.
i get everything about it, i have one question though... since you've depressed the butt joint along its entire length, doesn't that mean that the CORNERS of the sheetrock are now double depressed due to this structural depression plus the additional depression that already exists on the corners from the long edge of compressed sheet rock... does it not screw up the mudding of the long edges where every eight feet now there is a deeper hole to mud... does the paper tape lay flat there or the deeper dip at every intersection messes with it?
Now when you lean into the wall you can break 4 sheets instead of 1. Idk why people think a floating joint with no support is superior in any way. Cosmetic advantages at the cost of structural strength are not advantages.
I think you might be missing the point that screwing that close to the edge of the drywall makes it a weaker attachment as opposed to the butt board having a full attachment with correct depth setting on the screws. It does make sense. We used to do the same thing with half inch plywood and quarter inch plywood back of the day when we had to get an extremely flat ceilings and two or three story shafts with clear story lights at the top. Now you can just buy the shit pre-made.
@@nbco55 I think you are missing the point of how leverage works on a floating joint vs a joint tied to a framing member that is 3.5 inches wide. I could see using this on ceilings but walls that people lean on and bump into it will crack at the framing member with body weight applied to it. Much less a rowdy kid falling into it.
@@totallynottrademarked5279 I tend to agree with your assessment on buttboards. Also, even on ceilings wouldn't it be a pain if you have a buttboard right where you need to install one of those led can lights right where one lands? You would have to cut your circle into wood, not to mention the the two edges of either side of the opening would be prone to crack vs a continuous sheet of sheetrock from stud to stud.
I did the same thing 22 years ago with sheathing scraps. Didn’t know about anything else but I like the bevel on ur product. Sure saved me on the drywall. I can say after 22 years no cracks in any of the floating joints here. Do b ware all my cracks are at door corners n I think I shoulda left floating around this.ur thoughts ...
I can see the advantage of them but drywall manufacturers do specify in their installation guides to stagger joints wherever possible. You could use longer lengths (again, recommended by USG, et al) but those are unwieldy to hang and hard to deliver after framing is complete. Seem a little gimicky but certainly a good enough product. I would use them for ceilings in my own renos.
they're not FIXED like a wall stud so they can have movement and lead to a cracked butt joint.... And if the stud before the joint is out it's not going to fix that... Cardboard shims are cheap and easy, make a butt joint that doesn't need busted out, and is solid (no movement)
@@dmitriyc I don't know of a link, I used to to it for a living.. You shim the studs on either side of the stud the butt joint will break on, you can check how many shims you need with a straight edge across the 3 studs, Use as many as you need to create a strong 1/8 inch gap at the center stud... The shims don't need to be all the way to the long edge of the sheetrock because of the recess, stay above/below the recess, (the recess is the 3'' indentation that runs along the long edges, that allows for tape and mud, The butt joints don't have this recess, we use the shims to create that allowance so the tape and mud doesn't hump out the wall) If you use 2 or 3 shims step down the lengths by an inch and a half... The first going to the recess, the 2nd 1 1/2 shorter and so on.... Do NOT railroad butt joints from floor to ceiling... Only on rare and unusual occasions do professionals do that.. Sometimes the studs are bowed badly, and you need to many shims.... change butt joint locations.... Check the locations of the joints first thing on a wall and figure out what you need to do. Good luck..!
@@2869may Thanks for the detailed reply! If I understood correctly, this method would leave a ~1/8" valley at the breaking stud, but wouldn't this valley then span the full 32" across the studs? (The buttboard product looks like it creates a valley only about 8" wide.) With your method, how much of the valley/recess would you then fill with mud? Also, regarding the warning against floor-to-ceiling butt joints, is that just for cosmetic reasons or structural/mechanical as well? I've seen the advice before but only in the context of reducing unsightly shadows, wondering if there's more to it.
@@dmitriyc In theory it would leave a valley for the full 32", But the semi ridged sheetrock stays flat for several inches next to the side studs before starting to bow in, And a 1/8 dip over 16" is pretty gradual... We done it for decades, 3 coats after taping an 8'' knife then a 10" then a 12" with great success, Flat butt joints. If you have NEW knifes, use a FINE file and gently knock off the sharp edges and corners of the knifes, especially the sharp corners of the 6'' knife you will run 90 degree angles with, the sharp corner will dig in and could cut the tape. Just slightly round it over like a 1/16 and remove sharp edges from the sides of the knife that will scrape the mud and tape from the opposing wall of the angle you're running. you run angles one side at a time and let them dry before running the other. Lightly sand between coats to remove any ridges or excess mud. When running the 2nd side of an angle run the knife very LIGHTLY against the opposing wall angle...! even though the mud is "dry" it is still soft and will dig out easily and get little chunks of dry mud in your wet mud and create drag lines... Finishing is all about a light touch and proper pressure in the RIGHT direction MIX your mud in a bucket with a BIG drill and paddle with a little water and dish soap (finishers secret) this will help tremendously..! The mud will spread SO much smoother..! (add water slowly as not to get it too thin, the shot glass amount of soap is a wetting agent and will help thicker mud spread easier, thin mud is hard to control and keep on your knife.. I wouldn't get Box Store mud..! Go to a drywall supply and get Magnum Light for coating, use All Purpose for taping it has glue in it. And DON'T wipe the tape down too hard and wipe all the mud from under it. put a little mud on top of the tape where you start to wipe it, it will wipe down nice and smooth with some mud between the knife and tape... (A light yet firm grip on the knife is also key. Spread 2 fingers onto the blade and thumb and 2 fingers holding the handle against your palm, you can adjust pressure on the blade with your fingers... Don't grab the handle like you would a hammer, It's awkward and will make the knife feel cumbersome in your hand.... I wish I could show you this stuff in person...! I should teach a course on finishing...LOL As for floor to ceiling butts, it's not structural, it's just something we were taught not to do because it's easier to notice a bigger butt joint opposed to a smaller one. Let me know if you have any more question, I don't mind sharing what I know and helping out. Best of luck to you.!
I'm going to do some serious reading tonight but I cant see how this meets the building code which is just a minimum I know it doesnt show up on the recommend standards set forth buy the gypsum manufactures group or by any ASTM I can find
Bee doing this for years over 10 years cutting 3/8 plywood in to 3 inch strips found that on the walls it was prone to cracking found if someone pushed there hand on it say to get up off the ground it could crack so that is a risk !!
Couldn’t you just run a 2x4 with the 3.5 side forward connected to the framing at the butt joint area and get the same effect? And it would be connected to the framing so it would have some structural support?
Butt boards at about $2.50 per 4 ft are too expensive. These butt boards should be 8 ft long (not 4 f), to avoid seams in the butt boards. It is better to make your own 8 butt boards 8 ft long out of 7/16 OSB sheet.
why is anyone buying this product instead of ripping up some cheap sheathing like 7/16 osb? I see this as a good alternative way to install drywall, but i dont see anything special about this "product"
Scrap wood can be great for backing but unfortunately it doesn't recess your butt joints like buttboard does. Buttboard is Vgrooved so it pulls your buttjoint inwards creating a tapered edge. Typically they're about $5 a piece but with the cost of lumber going up due to Covid everythings more expensive now
Everytime I place my stud I do it as per my board I have so I don't have to cut any no use butt board I usually double the stud at the end of the board That it
I tend to agree but remember, the big cost with mudding is the labor of application, not just the cost of the mud. Then there is sanding the larger joint. I still agree that I don't think there is enough savings to offset the cost of the product. Maybe from a quality perspective if you get a flatter joint, there is value to that, especially on a large open ceiling.
@@mywifesboyfriendisfire: Tennis shoes will get them kicked off most job sites and/or a heavy fine. They might each want to consider buying a pair of CSA approved work boots before an inspector shows up.
I'm no drywall pro, but if I imagine that you don't want tapered edges where you don't, mud... like near the floor as your trim wouldn't sit flat. It would only make sense if they sold both options but then you have twice the options and stores need twice the floor space for drywall then.
They're widespread here (Netherlands), mostly used for ceilings. The production method does cost extra (though these are more expensive also) and the quality control isn't always top notch which makes the edge of the taper visible after finishing sometimes. The board factory mills a small slot in the side of the board en glues it together again, making another tapered edge. They're called "4x AK" boards here.
I mean, once you cut it, it's no longer tapered, and I think you probably just have to be lucky if a full board actually lands on dead center of a stud. So it's probably just not worth the effort to make them that way. I'm just guessing. Not a pro here, but am in the process of a renovation of a bedroom and it was rare that a full sheet did the job unaltered.
Have a look at the outside garbage bins in a new home developments. They are filled with piles of short ends of OSB and plywood sheathing that all goes to the landfill. All of that scrap can be used for drywall backing. It does the exact same thing as this product and costs nothing. Using the scraps is also more environmentally friendly
No it's not the same thing. These are V-grooved pieces of OSB. They're thinner in the middle than they are the edges. That's what recesses your butt joint. If all you wanted was backing then yes you could do that. But this serves two purpose. Backing and recession your joint so there's no hump.
@@sidsid9808: My opinion as a longtime professional is that there is no benefit whatsoever to this. The suggestion that there will be less drywall waste is ludicrous - a 17ft wall is still a 17ft wall. The further suggestion that drywall boarders cut the panels at the butt joint is equally ridiculous…the cuts are made at the inside corners at the opposite ends. And finally the suggestion that a 1/2” drywall panel will ‘suck in’ to the taper of the OSB backer is complete nonsense. There’s always someone trying to convince people that, for a price, magic will take the place of skill, lol.
I bought a pack for under $60 bucks from a local drywall store. It worked great for the ceiling in the master bedroom I just completed. It made a pain in the ass job easier, so it was well worth it for me. I did a little planning on the layout to minimize butt edges and I ended up with a a few boards left over. It was still way cheaper than hiring someone to do the job.
That's mostly all we use is CGC/USG lightweight drywall. Never had any issues. We were also using lightweight in this video but I believe it was Certainteed.
Isnt it a potential issue to butt two pieces of butt board on the same line as the drywall seam? If you had put the 48" piece on the bottom and trimmed the upper Buttboard this would have been a better joint.?
That's why I hate wood framing. I am in the commercial construction side and we use metal studs and mostly stand up the drywall, most butt joints fall above the ceiling height and if not drywall is still screwed across the studs..no cracking. oh and we have great finishers..
This is where a change in technique has not caught up to the product. In the past walls were hung with the drywall vertical. Manufacturers still have not changed the lengths to match up 16" and 24" studs with hanging drywall horizontally.
Or do the opposite and plane down 1/8" of the wall stud that butt joints lands on. I actually did this in certain walls where natural light washes the walls parallel. Not every butt joint but where it matters.
@Dan O: Except that in this video there is no visible top plate. It appears they’ve dropped the ceiling to a point where the top plate has completely disappeared. Problem solved, lol.
@@drywallnation: A factory bevel is designed to be wide enough to accept the full width of the tape. The minuscule bevel that you MIGHT achieve (but probably won’t) with this product will serve no purpose whatsoever in the taping of the final joint.
You couldn't be more wrong. You understand the product is v-grooved right? It creates a tapered edge. We finish our buttjoints with the same exact process we use for our beveled edges. 10" & 12" Flat Box and that's it. And they're perfectly flat
I plan on doing exactly that in my upcoming project. Ive not seen ButtBoards in person but they look to be thin OSB (probably 1/2")...they are tapered in the center, but I have a ton of cardboard drywall shims so I figure maybe 6 or 7" wide strip of 1/2" OSB with one or two of the shims stapled on each long edge of the OSB....once you screw into the "field" of the butt board it should suck the drywall down making the taper. Not sure if ButtBoards are expensive because I cant find them around here, so Ill make my own.
Yeah bro I been doing it on all my jobs they do work takes time to make them but it pays off when you go to hang and finish game changer for me I’ll never go back to regular butts ... do it !
Are you able to use butt board with spray foam? I would imagine that the space between sheetrock and the spray foam would not allow enough room for the butt board.
I dont really like the idea of having a joint off a stud, its flexible. If someone lays on that wall, over the joint its going to flex or even crack. Not really good if theres kids on the house. Faster, maybe cheaper, not stronger. Now, i like the idea if you add a flat recess stud instead of a floating piece of osb.
How this got to market baffles me, putting a peace of osb or ply behind a floating board joint has been about for as long as I can remember, and I’m 40 years old .
I used these years ago on a few houses in northern Michigan, they was expensive and nobody wanted to pay for them.. when I used them we put more screws in them and it does suck the joint in much more.. ive also seen people make there own.. i could see using them on smooth ceilings more than a textured ceiling.. if people want to pay for them and pay alittle extra for using them I have no problems, but everyone trying to save money on everything nowadays
We just used a sheet of osb and some cardboard shims on the side of the osb and it worked perfectly fine and was dirt cheap. Not really sure if it saves any money, but it does make mudding easier for home owners
Or just use regular OSB without the stupid V groove, put in two rows of screws on each side, V cut the butt joint and fill with setting compound. No tape needed and joint is less than an inch wide and perfectly flat. Been doing this for years with zero cracks or issues.
zero cracks without tape?.... i find that extremely hard to believe... what specific compound are you using again?.... sounds like a miracle and i'm all for trying it out
@@notimportant3686 Any setting type compound. You know 20, 45, 90 minute mud. The magic is NOT in the compound. The OSB backer board behind the joint with TWO ROWS of screws on each side for a total of FOUR keeps the drywall from flexing. Think of it as the OSB is the tape and it is installed on the back side. Ran a business for years. It works.
@@dennis6325 i can't think of it in that way because there is a reason on big seams you get more visible cracks with mesh than you do with paper tape... it's not because because there are no cracks when you use paper, it is because when a crack happens between sheet rock but it's UNDER the paper, it exists but isn't visible... the osb is on the other side, so when that same crack happens, it is visible and not behind paper tape i find it hard to believe that there is no flexible covering on the front of the joint and there are no cracks... i would say i find it impossible... if you've been able to do it, more power to you
@@notimportant3686 I have NEVER heard anyone think of drywall joints like that. If there is a crack behind the tape, there is a gap, if there is a gap, it will ridge during seasonal temp changes. That is why you prefill large gaps before the taping process begins. The method I described works. I proved it to myself by doing all the butt joints in my shop this way. It sees extreme temps and wind loads. Zero cracks and it has seen 20 years of service. ZERO CRACKS. No ridging. I used to have actual test data from a structural lab also showing it works. The reason mesh tape cracks is because the fiberglass fibers run only down the length and across the width. There are no fibers running at plus/minus 45 degrees which means mesh tape has no shear resistance, but paper tape does. Pull on mesh tape diagonally and it folds up. Paper tape will not. Paper tape has shear resistance. As soon as the wall gets racked from wind loads, mesh joints will crack. But sometimes you get lucky if you use setting mud with mesh tape. But using ready mix and mesh tape is a certain recipe for cracking. Fibafuse mesh tape does have fibers in the +/- 45 deg direction and will work with ready mix.
The ONLY issue I see is when the home owner goes to use a stud finder to fins a stud (to affix shelf brackets to or something) and their stud finder will give them a "false positive", and they risk screwing into the buttboard that my not be structurally sound
Awesome brother that plug board deal that's cool stuff that's what I like about this drywall Nation I'm a journeyman taper Southern California this is a while ago I do my own remodel now I'm ready 51 but there's something that I saw on the video that I'm very much interested in and that was that drywall gun that already has the screw coming out like it's it's automatic I never saw that before I would love to have one of those
Thanks the screw gun all day but the one that had the screw is being fed to it I never saw that that was awesome but thanks brother and I'm at the wall guy all of my stuff is DeWalt so I will be adding that one as soon as I find it thank you brother
@@joeoathkeepernuno7086 I have one, they are a time saver. I just put a link for you to see which one it is. Would never hang drywall without it after using it.
There is no difference in waste, depending on who does the take off. Its structure is sound but if you're cutting the ends off your sheet plus now you need the taper to fill 8' butts.... big no no
On a less than 8 foot wall, wouldn’t it be better to mount the 4 foot batter board on the shorter width side of the sheet so that there is no weak hinge point? Say on a 7 foot wall height, one drywall sheet will be 3 foot wide (this would get the whole 4 foot batter board) and on the 4 foot wide sheet would get the 3 foot batter board. This would cause overlap between the two sheets at the seam making a stronger joint??
But that stuff is expensive, so have to add that to the cost b4 you subtract mud & board cost.....could probably make some out of osb sheets cheaper..... Mud and drywall isn't that expensive....labor is though.... Why drywall isn't recessed on 3 or 4 sides by now is crazy.... Cutting labor will be biggest benefit
too expensive in the production. Drywall sheets are manufactured into long pieces and sliced to size depending on need - 8, 10, 12, 14 Heck they have 20 footers in Australia, which makes for very minimal butt joints in their construction. Plus you end up cutting the Butt's to fit the wall anyway so most likely you you slice off one recessed end.
I’m just getting hung up that he keeps saying we didn’t have to make cuts when he ripped to full sheets in half😆 also agree that he should have staggered the tops and bottoms or at least used an 8’ butt board on the joint
These things work great. They used to make them out of mdf which I thought worked a little better than the osb. They work great and save a bunch of time so in my opinion it's a wash ..
I'd be interested to see the board myself. Many people claim that flat joints are flatter than butt joints. I disagree with that notion, especially on ½" board. If you carefully examine a sheet, you will notice that a flat joint has a slight ridge on the inside of the recess. This is because when the board is pressed, the material is soft. It squeezes some of the gypsum into a ridge on the inside edge of the recess. This ridge is often thicker than a paper taped butt joint. As a result, the flat joint cannot be any flatter than a butt joint. Properly done, I would prefer the butt joint. And stand up board is a big no, no, on anything high end. This leaves you finishing all the way to the ceiling every 12' rather than every 4'. It also leaves the long not so flat, horizontal flat joint run at near eye level. Which creates the illusion of it being flat. I would want to examine this product myself to decide wether of not is was worth any extra cost
Hi, good video, but I have a slightly different opinion, technological, that if the end edge goes in one line between the sheets of drywall, then it is better to fasten two sheets, and then tie the sheets to the rear connection ... Good luck to you , guys!
why not rip your own .How would that be strong enough floating like that, maybe if there were 3" spacers behind it to make it more ridged. .I think the only advantage would be less drywall scrap because you can possibly use a whole sheet without any end cuts.
What happened to screws at 12” in the field?!? 9 and 12 for spacing! And, how deep were those screws? Looked like past the paper, gunna pop! Butt boards are the only way to fly!!!
Just did 150 - sheet job in Phoenix Arizona, used 2 cases of buttboards. Used 12 fewer boxes of mud and saved time both hanging and finishing. Large great room ceiling and master bedroom ceiling came out perfectly flat. Would recommend blocking the ceiling joints at the wall with a 2x4, to stop the uplift of the drywall at the wall angle. Highly recommend this product.
So you saved around $120 on mud, but when you factor in the cost of Butt Board, $155 for a case, you ended up spending an additional $200 on materials.
@@gme10955 you didn't take into consideration of labor that would have been spent on applying those 12 boxes.
Labor costs…. That is everything. Stop getting so caught up in material price. You spend more on tools and materials so that job is easier, completed correctly in a faster time = you impress GC and make money. It’s not hard. Get out of your own way and innovate! Do something new to better your business. Keep on doing it like your grandpa and you won’t have anything more than him. Work smarter not harder? Cheers.
@@jreal3072 So you are advocating reduction in labor, which is equal to people out of job plus the jobs lost at the mud factory?
@@sidsid9808 any business owner would answer your question "YES" even though it is a completely wrong question.... the premise is not that you are firing people... it is that if you have a crew of five guys that finish the job in 10 days usually, now those 5 guys finish that same job in 9 days (for example) while you still charged the same amount for a job to the customer... you are now taking the next job ONE DAY EARLIER than you would have otherwise, so you are making money faster....
those 5 guys are still employed the same way but are more efficient
u get that, right?... say you get it
some incredible detail work in that home .you are not eliminating butt joints...how-to create more efficient butt joints for taping & hanging he would never break on the same area as shown.
around here in illinois we stand the rock up just flat joints
Great idea, but surely buying a sheet of OSB and ripping it down to 100mm strips to use in the same way has to be more cost effective?
@SomeDumUsrName I did, it's meant to pull the Butt Joints in so you can fill it. But for what it's worth you may aswell just cut your own OSB and skim over the joint regardless. It will look just fine. And you save on the insane cost of over engineered OSB Butt board
@SomeDumUsrName Ahh, but I did. I just don't see the value in it when they cost so damn much. But, Lovely. You're one of those eh
The board is not flat Einstein 🤦♂️
@@matthewjoniec9000 I know.. thicker on the edge than in the middle.
@SomeDumUsrName OR , he understands sheetrock has been buttjoined on the edge seams for about 75 years now in millions of homes , so the cutesy curve bevel in buttboard is gimmicky nonsense and rip your own OSB and save money .... sheetrock has been buttjoined for decades in every home in America , no bevel gimmick needed and has worked just fine
I was making these 20 years ago from scrap plywood on a table saw. Never even thought to market it lol.
I know , I'm thinking the same thing right now ..... been making scabs for years , drats
So any ply or osb would do the same?
@@jewsh519 of course it would , we've been using "scabs" all our lives in carpentry and building ..... anytime you need to splice a seam not landing on a stud or joist or rafter , you add a scab board .... it is BEST NOT to use a scab board on anything you might WALK on though , you definitely prefer to land on a joist or rafter , but we have used scab boards forever in building
@@shure46 i kno that im saying any board will pull the ends in like that
@@jewsh519 no it won't ... to "pull the ends in" the scab board would have to be beveled , the whole idea of this "buttboard" system ... if you put a flat scab board behind sheetrock edge seams , those edge seams will NOT be "indented beveled in for mud" like the factory beveled edges of sheetrock seams are .... all sheetrock buttjoints are flat , not beveled on the stud , or with a regular scab .... and my thinking is "I don't care" because it will tape and bed just fine , beveled or not
Amazing! That’s so easy! Now I can save money on sheets, especially if we hang more then 350 sheets a day with my crew, and we save time forks my finishers, that is a time and money saver! The finishers will require those buttboards at the job. DrywallNation thanks for sharing those things.
LOL... Check the cost of them.... they're not FIXED like a wall stud so they can have movement and lead to a cracked butt joint.... And if the stud before the joint is out it's not going to fix that...
Cardboard shims are cheap and easy, make a butt joint that doesn't need busted out, and is solid (no movement)
Wow. As a DIY homeowner I'm sold. I like it. It'll be interesting to see if it takes off with the pros. I think it could go either way. I definitely see the higher end more custom home guys taking it up. The production side though, it has to actually be faster and cheaper to take off.
LOL... Check the cost of them.... they're not FIXED like a wall stud so they can have movement and lead to a cracked butt joint.... And if the stud before the joint is out it's not going to fix that...
Cardboard shims are cheap and easy, make a butt joint that doesn't need busted out, and is solid (no movement)
@@2869may think critically about what you just said after watching how they were installed. the perimeter and the field were still screwed into studs the only thing different with the OSB "butboard" is now the panels are joined together rather than being joined to the same stud any force that would create a crack at that seam (bear in mind I'm talking about an earthquake level of force here) would create cracks in any application.
further studs do have movement houses wrack when they settle that wracking force is what causes cracks in the seams of drywall joints the benefit of scabbing the sheets together like this translates the wracking forces along the entire panel saving that specific joint granted the horizontal seams will still show signs of wear when the house settles but the one vertical joint will be fine save for the horizontal line.
you're dead right about the cost though it isn't worth the price especially since you could make them with a sheet of OSB and a skill saw plus router if you don't feel comfortable dragging a skill saw blade to create the indent. (yes it's dangerous but no more dangerous than you let it be.)
@@willhwiltjr I can see both sides of it....
But the joint being "floating" could be positive and negative as it not attached to a fixed structural stud... Not that it would happen often, (kids room, hall way) but it wouldn't take much pressure on the joint to pop the screws on the backer board with nothing behind it to support it... That would be rare... I'm reaching...LOL
We used the cardboard shims for years and years and very rarely had to bust out a butt joint... but finishing behind sh!trockers that never touched a shim, we often had to triple butt joints
You could also create the indent with a table saw and a dado blade.
"Earth quake level of force" lmao tell me you don't have a 2 story house with kids playing in the floor above you with out telling me you don't. Lol
Wouldnt you cut one board to lap the gap? Now you have 2 materials butted together at the same point
i get everything about it, i have one question though... since you've depressed the butt joint along its entire length, doesn't that mean that the CORNERS of the sheetrock are now double depressed due to this structural depression plus the additional depression that already exists on the corners from the long edge of compressed sheet rock... does it not screw up the mudding of the long edges where every eight feet now there is a deeper hole to mud... does the paper tape lay flat there or the deeper dip at every intersection messes with it?
Now when you lean into the wall you can break 4 sheets instead of 1. Idk why people think a floating joint with no support is superior in any way. Cosmetic advantages at the cost of structural strength are not advantages.
I think you might be missing the point that screwing that close to the edge of the drywall makes it a weaker attachment as opposed to the butt board having a full attachment with correct depth setting on the screws. It does make sense. We used to do the same thing with half inch plywood and quarter inch plywood back of the day when we had to get an extremely flat ceilings and two or three story shafts with clear story lights at the top. Now you can just buy the shit pre-made.
@@nbco55 I think you are missing the point of how leverage works on a floating joint vs a joint tied to a framing member that is 3.5 inches wide. I could see using this on ceilings but walls that people lean on and bump into it will crack at the framing member with body weight applied to it. Much less a rowdy kid falling into it.
@@totallynottrademarked5279 I tend to agree with your assessment on buttboards. Also, even on ceilings wouldn't it be a pain if you have a buttboard right where you need to install one of those led can lights right where one lands? You would have to cut your circle into wood, not to mention the the two edges of either side of the opening would be prone to crack vs a continuous sheet of sheetrock from stud to stud.
Floating joints are strong once done u have 4 points of contact plus glue over 16" plus its not hump out or needs to be float 20" out.
It's ok bud...science is hard for some people
I did the same thing 22 years ago with sheathing scraps. Didn’t know about anything else but I like the bevel on ur product. Sure saved me on the drywall. I can say after 22 years no cracks in any of the floating joints here. Do b ware all my cracks are at door corners n I think I shoulda left floating around this.ur thoughts ...
7:47 what tool was that
i make my own. rip a piece of osb 7 inches then staple a drywall shim on each end. would rather use store bought ones but nobody here carries them.
I’m thinking of making my own using 1/2 osb well that work?
@@artisticdrywall7368 yes
How thick of a shim do you install on the edge of that OSB? Would this work on 5/8" drywall?
@@nbg11070 yes it will will work on 5/8 drywall you can buy 1/8 paper bord drywall shims
@@Patrick00323 Thank you very much.
I can see the advantage of them but drywall manufacturers do specify in their installation guides to stagger joints wherever possible. You could use longer lengths (again, recommended by USG, et al) but those are unwieldy to hang and hard to deliver after framing is complete. Seem a little gimicky but certainly a good enough product. I would use them for ceilings in my own renos.
they're not FIXED like a wall stud so they can have movement and lead to a cracked butt joint.... And if the stud before the joint is out it's not going to fix that...
Cardboard shims are cheap and easy, make a butt joint that doesn't need busted out, and is solid (no movement)
@@2869may Do you have a link that describes this method with the shims?
@@dmitriyc I don't know of a link, I used to to it for a living.. You shim the studs on either side of the stud the butt joint will break on, you can check how many shims you need with a straight edge across the 3 studs, Use as many as you need to create a strong 1/8 inch gap at the center stud...
The shims don't need to be all the way to the long edge of the sheetrock because of the recess, stay above/below the recess, (the recess is the 3'' indentation that runs along the long edges, that allows for tape and mud, The butt joints don't have this recess, we use the shims to create that allowance so the tape and mud doesn't hump out the wall)
If you use 2 or 3 shims step down the lengths by an inch and a half... The first going to the recess, the 2nd 1 1/2 shorter and so on....
Do NOT railroad butt joints from floor to ceiling... Only on rare and unusual occasions do professionals do that..
Sometimes the studs are bowed badly, and you need to many shims.... change butt joint locations.... Check the locations of the joints first thing on a wall and figure out what you need to do.
Good luck..!
@@2869may Thanks for the detailed reply! If I understood correctly, this method would leave a ~1/8" valley at the breaking stud, but wouldn't this valley then span the full 32" across the studs? (The buttboard product looks like it creates a valley only about 8" wide.) With your method, how much of the valley/recess would you then fill with mud?
Also, regarding the warning against floor-to-ceiling butt joints, is that just for cosmetic reasons or structural/mechanical as well? I've seen the advice before but only in the context of reducing unsightly shadows, wondering if there's more to it.
@@dmitriyc In theory it would leave a valley for the full 32", But the semi ridged sheetrock stays flat for several inches next to the side studs before starting to bow in, And a 1/8 dip over 16" is pretty gradual...
We done it for decades, 3 coats after taping an 8'' knife then a 10" then a 12" with great success, Flat butt joints.
If you have NEW knifes, use a FINE file and gently knock off the sharp edges and corners of the knifes, especially the sharp corners of the 6'' knife you will run 90 degree angles with, the sharp corner will dig in and could cut the tape. Just slightly round it over like a 1/16 and remove sharp edges from the sides of the knife that will scrape the mud and tape from the opposing wall of the angle you're running. you run angles one side at a time and let them dry before running the other. Lightly sand between coats to remove any ridges or excess mud. When running the 2nd side of an angle run the knife very LIGHTLY against the opposing wall angle...! even though the mud is "dry" it is still soft and will dig out easily and get little chunks of dry mud in your wet mud and create drag lines...
Finishing is all about a light touch and proper pressure in the RIGHT direction
MIX your mud in a bucket with a BIG drill and paddle with a little water and dish soap (finishers secret) this will help tremendously..! The mud will spread SO much smoother..! (add water slowly as not to get it too thin, the shot glass amount of soap is a wetting agent and will help thicker mud spread easier, thin mud is hard to control and keep on your knife..
I wouldn't get Box Store mud..! Go to a drywall supply and get Magnum Light for coating, use All Purpose for taping it has glue in it. And DON'T wipe the tape down too hard and wipe all the mud from under it.
put a little mud on top of the tape where you start to wipe it, it will wipe down nice and smooth with some mud between the knife and tape... (A light yet firm grip on the knife is also key. Spread 2 fingers onto the blade and thumb and 2 fingers holding the handle against your palm, you can adjust pressure on the blade with your fingers... Don't grab the handle like you would a hammer, It's awkward and will make the knife feel cumbersome in your hand....
I wish I could show you this stuff in person...!
I should teach a course on finishing...LOL
As for floor to ceiling butts, it's not structural, it's just something we were taught not to do because it's easier to notice a bigger butt joint opposed to a smaller one.
Let me know if you have any more question,
I don't mind sharing what I know and helping out.
Best of luck to you.!
So basically, you cut pieces of 1/2 osb and use them as this? Whats the difference between normal osb and this thing?
I break drywall on studs or ceiling that bow in when possible does the same.
What about not staggering your sheets instead of all 4 corners meeting up and possibly making a problem....is this product addressing that issue
surprising to see that
I'm going to do some serious reading tonight but I cant see how this meets the building code which is just a minimum I know it doesnt show up on the recommend standards set forth buy the gypsum manufactures group or by any ASTM I can find
I like the way that brain words everything he says. Very informative and straight to the point
Bee doing this for years over 10 years cutting 3/8 plywood in to 3 inch strips found that on the walls it was prone to cracking found if someone pushed there hand on it say to get up off the ground it could crack so that is a risk !!
Those things look like strips of OSB is that what it is?
yes... but they are not flat, they are planed in towards the center... like a very wide v shape
How would you use this product with spray foam insulation on walls or ceiling?
It's a piece of osb? Am I missing something?
Does this work with 5/8” drywall?
Couldn’t you just run a 2x4 with the 3.5 side forward connected to the framing at the butt joint area and get the same effect? And it would be connected to the framing so it would have some structural support?
2x4 is not beveled so finishing will be wide, same as if you land on a stud . Not to mention insulation and wiring that may be behind it.
Butt boards at about $2.50 per 4 ft are too expensive. These butt boards should be 8 ft long (not 4 f), to avoid seams in the butt boards. It is better to make your own 8 butt boards 8 ft long out of 7/16 OSB sheet.
Yeap....
Totally Agree 👍
why is anyone buying this product instead of ripping up some cheap sheathing like 7/16 osb? I see this as a good alternative way to install drywall, but i dont see anything special about this "product"
they are bevelled toward the center@@audioleech
I usually use 1 x 3 or any scrap wood. are these expensive..?
Scrap wood can be great for backing but unfortunately it doesn't recess your butt joints like buttboard does. Buttboard is Vgrooved so it pulls your buttjoint inwards creating a tapered edge.
Typically they're about $5 a piece but with the cost of lumber going up due to Covid everythings more expensive now
how is this different from using scrap strips of plywood?
It’s not.
Everytime I place my stud I do it as per my board I have so I don't have to cut any no use butt board
I usually double the stud at the end of the board
That it
I can’t see the mud savings bigger than the. OST of this board at $110 Canadian a box. Savings is just not balanced out
I tend to agree but remember, the big cost with mudding is the labor of application, not just the cost of the mud. Then there is sanding the larger joint. I still agree that I don't think there is enough savings to offset the cost of the product. Maybe from a quality perspective if you get a flatter joint, there is value to that, especially on a large open ceiling.
It might be great on walls that are not insulated or wired!
Thanks that's great information 47 years never heard of it
I don't know if the taper is going to like 8 foot butt joints , also will they work on exterior walls ( insulation and vapor barrier )
they're really not butt joins anymore, they are just like all the other tapered joints now
How are they not damaging the stack of drywall that they keep standing on?
Because it's drywall, and it's laying flat, and they're in tennis shoes.
@@mywifesboyfriendisfire: Tennis shoes will get them kicked off most job sites and/or a heavy fine. They might each want to consider buying a pair of CSA approved work boots before an inspector shows up.
Why can't drywall manufacturers make the drywall with tapered edges on all four sides, instead of just the edges?
I'm no drywall pro, but if I imagine that you don't want tapered edges where you don't, mud... like near the floor as your trim wouldn't sit flat. It would only make sense if they sold both options but then you have twice the options and stores need twice the floor space for drywall then.
The cost of manufacturing the drywall would definitely go up. Go watch a UA-cam video on how drywall is made and you'll see why.
They're widespread here (Netherlands), mostly used for ceilings. The production method does cost extra (though these are more expensive also)
and the quality control isn't always top notch which makes the edge of the taper visible after finishing sometimes.
The board factory mills a small slot in the side of the board en glues it together again, making another tapered edge. They're called "4x AK" boards here.
I mean, once you cut it, it's no longer tapered, and I think you probably just have to be lucky if a full board actually lands on dead center of a stud. So it's probably just not worth the effort to make them that way. I'm just guessing. Not a pro here, but am in the process of a renovation of a bedroom and it was rare that a full sheet did the job unaltered.
No glue?
Have a look at the outside garbage bins in a new home developments. They are filled with piles of short ends of OSB and plywood sheathing that all goes to the landfill. All of that scrap can be used for drywall backing. It does the exact same thing as this product and costs nothing. Using the scraps is also more environmentally friendly
Can you just cut a 96 inch board in 16 pieces by 6" wide instead? Same thing.
No it's not the same thing. These are V-grooved pieces of OSB. They're thinner in the middle than they are the edges. That's what recesses your butt joint. If all you wanted was backing then yes you could do that. But this serves two purpose. Backing and recession your joint so there's no hump.
@@drywallnationwill it suck in a 5/8" drywall?
Will a stud finder pick this up as a stud? A homeowner trying to hang something on this would end in disaster no?
I am not a contractor but home owner handyman. I really don't see much benefit in using these butt boards. Yes, stud finder will pick these up.
@@sidsid9808: My opinion as a longtime professional is that there is no benefit whatsoever to this. The suggestion that there will be less drywall waste is ludicrous - a 17ft wall is still a 17ft wall. The further suggestion that drywall boarders cut the panels at the butt joint is equally ridiculous…the cuts are made at the inside corners at the opposite ends. And finally the suggestion that a 1/2” drywall panel will ‘suck in’ to the taper of the OSB backer is complete nonsense. There’s always someone trying to convince people that, for a price, magic will take the place of skill, lol.
I bought a pack for under $60 bucks from a local drywall store. It worked great for the ceiling in the master bedroom I just completed. It made a pain in the ass job easier, so it was well worth it for me.
I did a little planning on the layout to minimize butt edges and I ended up with a a few boards left over. It was still way cheaper than hiring someone to do the job.
Now they are $155 for 12. They are crazy if they think i will pay that...
@@rolohern9645 just rip down osb that's exactly what it is , there smoked out if they think they just invented some new shit 😂😂
@@samuelferris4108 OSB that tapers at the edges no?
I'd like to see this product tried with the "ultra light" drywall that HD sells. That junk is so brittle it cracks if you just look at it funny.
That's mostly all we use is CGC/USG lightweight drywall. Never had any issues.
We were also using lightweight in this video but I believe it was Certainteed.
Isnt it a potential issue to butt two pieces of butt board on the same line as the drywall seam? If you had put the 48" piece on the bottom and trimmed the upper Buttboard this would have been a better joint.?
Good point.
Nice idea, but at $183 a case (12 pieces) in my area, that's going to be a hard NO.
EXACTLY!
That's why I hate wood framing. I am in the commercial construction side and we use metal studs and mostly stand up the drywall, most butt joints fall above the ceiling height and if not drywall is still screwed across the studs..no cracking. oh and we have great finishers..
This is where a change in technique has not caught up to the product. In the past walls were hung with the drywall vertical. Manufacturers still have not changed the lengths to match up 16" and 24" studs with hanging drywall horizontally.
What finish tools are yall using?
No stud adhesive guys?
Im a painter. Now this isca great product. I will use. Thanks
What about railroading the butts, I would never be able to pass inspection.
We shim out the studs before the butt joint for less flash
Or do the opposite and plane down 1/8" of the wall stud that butt joints lands on. I actually did this in certain walls where natural light washes the walls parallel. Not every butt joint but where it matters.
What about the joint at the top plate and the bottom plate? I feel like it would stick out at the plates when finished
On an 8' wall, the plate areas would be the tapered edge of gypsum.
@Dan O: Except that in this video there is no visible top plate. It appears they’ve dropped the ceiling to a point where the top plate has completely disappeared. Problem solved, lol.
I'm just mad because I didn't think of it first! LOL Great Product!
Why was no adhesive used those boards are going to bang.
Won't pass the inspection in SF or the rest of the Bay area if you don't stagger is a code
Can I just use osb or is the V profile of buttboard imperative?
It is, but you can make it your own by stapling on some plywood shims like that guy did: ua-cam.com/video/KNCxCPOZY5w/v-deo.html
I can see that breaking through with a slight hand pressure.
I'll try it
There are still butt joints everywhere. The video title says they will be eliminated. What am i missing?
They're recessed like a factory bevel. Did you watch the video?
@@drywallnation: A factory bevel is designed to be wide enough to accept the full width of the tape. The minuscule bevel that you MIGHT achieve (but probably won’t) with this product will serve no purpose whatsoever in the taping of the final joint.
You couldn't be more wrong. You understand the product is v-grooved right? It creates a tapered edge. We finish our buttjoints with the same exact process we use for our beveled edges. 10" & 12" Flat Box and that's it. And they're perfectly flat
The framer should have had that laid out 12 ft center no cuts
Good idea
Anyone know if you can use 1/2 inch osb with cardboard shims to create buttboards
I plan on doing exactly that in my upcoming project. Ive not seen ButtBoards in person but they look to be thin OSB (probably 1/2")...they are tapered in the center, but I have a ton of cardboard drywall shims so I figure maybe 6 or 7" wide strip of 1/2" OSB with one or two of the shims stapled on each long edge of the OSB....once you screw into the "field" of the butt board it should suck the drywall down making the taper. Not sure if ButtBoards are expensive because I cant find them around here, so Ill make my own.
Yeah bro I been doing it on all my jobs they do work takes time to make them but it pays off when you go to hang and finish game changer for me I’ll never go back to regular butts ... do it !
Are you able to use butt board with spray foam? I would imagine that the space between sheetrock and the spray foam would not allow enough room for the butt board.
If they leave the spray foam shy yes, if close to full no.
Doesn't anyone use glue anymore?
I dont really like the idea of having a joint off a stud, its flexible. If someone lays on that wall, over the joint its going to flex or even crack. Not really good if theres kids on the house. Faster, maybe cheaper, not stronger. Now, i like the idea if you add a flat recess stud instead of a floating piece of osb.
How this got to market baffles me, putting a peace of osb or ply behind a floating board joint has been about for as long as I can remember, and I’m 40 years old .
It has a slight V shape to it to create a gap for the tape. I bet we could still figure out a way to do that with scraps.
@@MoneyManHolmes will it work with 5/8" drywall 😂.
I used these years ago on a few houses in northern Michigan, they was expensive and nobody wanted to pay for them.. when I used them we put more screws in them and it does suck the joint in much more.. ive also seen people make there own.. i could see using them on smooth ceilings more than a textured ceiling.. if people want to pay for them and pay alittle extra for using them I have no problems, but everyone trying to save money on everything nowadays
What about the savings in mud, labor per hour on mudding compared to these? Makes me wonder.
They trip over a buck to pick up a penny.
What is the mudding tool they are using at the 7:38 mark?
its called a drywall flat box
Its a piece the wood whit patent 😅...have a years always put a piece the 2x4 ... what about ceilings and walls whit arc channel??
So they cant use just regular cut OSB..cause that is what it looks like..3/8 OSB that was just cut into smaller pieces..
Take a closer look then.
Well let see if lovely buttboard work with 5/8" drywall. am waiting for that video😊....
I thought you’re supposed to v-groove the butt-joints, apply cornice adhesive or joint compound to the buttboards themselves, as well as the joists.
You. Have to glue in my county . Nggremore
Quick fast and to the point! Awesome useful video. AIRBORNE!
Wouldn't you just buy a sheet of OSB and cut these yourself? Also, isn't OSB more expensive than drywall anyway? Would this actually save money?
We just used a sheet of osb and some cardboard shims on the side of the osb and it worked perfectly fine and was dirt cheap. Not really sure if it saves any money, but it does make mudding easier for home owners
Or just use regular OSB without the stupid V groove, put in two rows of screws on each side, V cut the butt joint and fill with setting compound. No tape needed and joint is less than an inch wide and perfectly flat. Been doing this for years with zero cracks or issues.
zero cracks without tape?.... i find that extremely hard to believe... what specific compound are you using again?.... sounds like a miracle and i'm all for trying it out
@@notimportant3686 Any setting type compound. You know 20, 45, 90 minute mud. The magic is NOT in the compound. The OSB backer board behind the joint with TWO ROWS of screws on each side for a total of FOUR keeps the drywall from flexing. Think of it as the OSB is the tape and it is installed on the back side. Ran a business for years. It works.
@@dennis6325 i can't think of it in that way because there is a reason on big seams you get more visible cracks with mesh than you do with paper tape... it's not because because there are no cracks when you use paper, it is because when a crack happens between sheet rock but it's UNDER the paper, it exists but isn't visible...
the osb is on the other side, so when that same crack happens, it is visible and not behind paper tape
i find it hard to believe that there is no flexible covering on the front of the joint and there are no cracks... i would say i find it impossible... if you've been able to do it, more power to you
@@notimportant3686
I have NEVER heard anyone think of drywall joints like that. If there is a crack behind the tape, there is a gap, if there is a gap, it will ridge during seasonal temp changes. That is why you prefill large gaps before the taping process begins.
The method I described works. I proved it to myself by doing all the butt joints in my shop this way. It sees extreme temps and wind loads. Zero cracks and it has seen 20 years of service. ZERO CRACKS. No ridging. I used to have actual test data from a structural lab also showing it works.
The reason mesh tape cracks is because the fiberglass fibers run only down the length and across the width. There are no fibers running at plus/minus 45 degrees which means mesh tape has no shear resistance, but paper tape does. Pull on mesh tape diagonally and it folds up. Paper tape will not. Paper tape has shear resistance. As soon as the wall gets racked from wind loads, mesh joints will crack. But sometimes you get lucky if you use setting mud with mesh tape. But using ready mix and mesh tape is a certain recipe for cracking. Fibafuse mesh tape does have fibers in the +/- 45 deg direction and will work with ready mix.
The ONLY issue I see is when the home owner goes to use a stud finder to fins a stud (to affix shelf brackets to or something) and their stud finder will give them a "false positive", and they risk screwing into the buttboard that my not be structurally sound
why can't u make your own rip some up
A finishers dream!
It certainly is!
I’d like to see the head to head theory on another video
Awesome brother that plug board deal that's cool stuff that's what I like about this drywall Nation I'm a journeyman taper Southern California this is a while ago I do my own remodel now I'm ready 51 but there's something that I saw on the video that I'm very much interested in and that was that drywall gun that already has the screw coming out like it's it's automatic I never saw that before I would love to have one of those
It's a dewalt drywall screw gun. Dewalt has an attachment that takes the screws . Senco sells the screws you put into them.
Thanks the screw gun all day but the one that had the screw is being fed to it I never saw that that was awesome but thanks brother and I'm at the wall guy all of my stuff is DeWalt so I will be adding that one as soon as I find it thank you brother
ua-cam.com/video/3JcVgGDt5p0/v-deo.html. That's it
@@joeoathkeepernuno7086 I have one, they are a time saver. I just put a link for you to see which one it is. Would never hang drywall without it after using it.
@@KennethCherisol
Thanks brother.
There is no difference in waste, depending on who does the take off. Its structure is sound but if you're cutting the ends off your sheet plus now you need the taper to fill 8' butts.... big no no
On a less than 8 foot wall, wouldn’t it be better to mount the 4 foot batter board on the shorter width side of the sheet so that there is no weak hinge point? Say on a 7 foot wall height, one drywall sheet will be 3 foot wide (this would get the whole 4 foot batter board) and on the 4 foot wide sheet would get the 3 foot batter board. This would cause overlap between the two sheets at the seam making a stronger joint??
But that stuff is expensive, so have to add that to the cost b4 you subtract mud & board cost.....could probably make some out of osb sheets cheaper.....
Mud and drywall isn't that expensive....labor is though....
Why drywall isn't recessed on 3 or 4 sides by now is crazy....
Cutting labor will be biggest benefit
too expensive in the production. Drywall sheets are manufactured into long pieces and sliced to size depending on need - 8, 10, 12, 14 Heck they have 20 footers in Australia, which makes for very minimal butt joints in their construction. Plus you end up cutting the Butt's to fit the wall anyway so most likely you you slice off one recessed end.
This would not pass inspection where I live and you'd get fire.
That’s a pretty cool system
I’m just getting hung up that he keeps saying we didn’t have to make cuts when he ripped to full sheets in half😆 also agree that he should have staggered the tops and bottoms or at least used an 8’ butt board on the joint
Too bad drywall adhesive was not used.
Wow. Great idea!
Plus doux comme la meilleure chaîne sur UA-cam 39 like 😊👍
Here we use either 2 sheets or 1 layer of the fiber reinforced don't know what they're called ind English 😅. So not much use over here
These things work great. They used to make them out of mdf which I thought worked a little better than the osb.
They work great and save a bunch of time so in my opinion it's a wash ..
You didn't have a problem with the MDF absorbing moisture and swelling? I know OSB swells too, but MDF is famous for it.
I'd be interested to see the board myself. Many people claim that flat joints are flatter than butt joints. I disagree with that notion, especially on ½" board. If you carefully examine a sheet, you will notice that a flat joint has a slight ridge on the inside of the recess. This is because when the board is pressed, the material is soft. It squeezes some of the gypsum into a ridge on the inside edge of the recess. This ridge is often thicker than a paper taped butt joint. As a result, the flat joint cannot be any flatter than a butt joint. Properly done, I would prefer the butt joint. And stand up board is a big no, no, on anything high end. This leaves you finishing all the way to the ceiling every 12' rather than every 4'. It also leaves the long not so flat, horizontal flat joint run at near eye level. Which creates the illusion of it being flat. I would want to examine this product myself to decide wether of not is was worth any extra cost
I see it's just a specially designed piece of plywood
@@kennethwilliams2738: It’s OSB not plywood.
Are you really saving money though? Because now that’s just one more bit of material I have to buy
Hi, good video, but I have a slightly different opinion, technological, that if the end edge goes in one line between the sheets of drywall, then it is better to fasten two sheets, and then tie the sheets to the rear connection ... Good luck to you , guys!
why not rip your own .How would that be strong enough floating like that, maybe if there were 3" spacers behind it to make it more ridged. .I think the only advantage would be less drywall scrap because you can possibly use a whole sheet without any end cuts.
Good video. Wretched "music".
Jeezus...the music right from the jump.
Now you have to purchase their butt crack box of OSB & Increase the CST. Both in the bid process & The field installation. Wtf.
Being in production drywall this is stupid
What happened to screws at 12” in the field?!? 9 and 12 for spacing! And, how deep were those screws? Looked like past the paper, gunna pop! Butt boards are the only way to fly!!!
Great idea, but seriously, stacking the joins....