To anyone on here thinking about getting a steel building. First of all, I recommend getting the concrete slab the exact size as the building, unless you’re adding a ramp. If you add an extra 4” or 6” inches to the concrete slab like some companies would tell you, increases the chance of water coming in. Always check with your local township office to inquire about building permits, if you live out in the country you’re probably not required to have a building permit but you might need a zoning permit. I’m an authorized dealer for a couple of manufacturers including my brother who is an installer. If you’re buying a building from a manufacturer that offers any less than 6 month workmanship warranty, you should probably stay away from them.
I am getting one installed and was thinking about floor level water intrusion. Do you think some general construction adhesive or placed under the footers would be a good idea to prevent water?
I'm in Va and I just did 24'25'x12' garage with a 12X21 lean-to. Mine was $14K for the building and the concrete was $10500 cause of my unlevel lot and had to have the back sitting on 5 rows of block. Stay away from Carolina Carports or at least hold that last check until u are happy. Im still fighting with them on several (8) fk ups after they said they were done. And if you go thru another company, make sure they not with CC. I went thru Millennium Buildings who pawned it all off on CC who had Jrs Garages & Buildings do the install. Too many hands touched this building but Im holding $6,151.37 check until I'M happy. Whatever u do DONT PAY THAT LAST CHECK UNTIL YOU GO OVER IT WITH A FINE TOOTH COMB!! In fact I encourage everybody to mail the last check when u r happy, not while they there holding their hands out and saying they are done. Also dont fall for the "prices are going up so u better put a deposit down to lock in the price" bs. Its in the contract, price is good for only 90 days even with a deposit and they will ABSOLUTELY go up after that 90 days if you not rdy to build yet.
These buildings aren't that difficult to install. If there are multiple mistakes something is definitely wrong. I definitely wouldn't pay them until it is all corrected. We were frustrated by our door being messed up but at least that wasn't the installers fault.
That is good advice. They need to make you whole. Give them a written letter with a reasonable future date to complete the work as per contract. If they fail to perform. Hire a contractor to finish the job and pay the the contractor from the the withholding money. CC is terrible.
I had a 20x30 installed with 10' legs, I had a local door company install my 8' tall x 18' wide garage door, has a garage door opener, lights and all. I love it and stores all my toys lake side, pontoon fits perfect, no more paying for shrinkwrap. enjoyed your video
@@brayoTints sorry just seen this, I had power in my 10x12 shed located in front of carport. I borrowed power from shed dug a trench came into building and ran extension cord to outlet boxes, installed led lights and tapped into garage door opener bulbs so when door opens lights come on or with wall button ran two outlets off it and purchased a retractable cord reel to reach me side by side and zero turn for tenders
Oooo, mine is from Alan`s also. Love mine. Ihave a 21' x 26' one. Wa amazing to watch them working and I was very impressed with their speed and efficiency :)
I have already been looking at getting an actual insulated garage door. The one that comes with it is pretty flimsy and there is no way to insulate it.
I was quoted 35K for a garage with a loft. These are pretty cool, thanks for sharing that. On a side note, seeing that guy up on the roof like that caught me by surprise. Must be a really strong building.
@@brettleybuilt Are upgrades for the roof offered? I haven't seen any myself. Maybe that would be another project lol You may want a Juliet Balcony or hunting blind... Now I'll have to search how to reinforce the roof structure. Are yours rated 140 mph+ etc ? Informative and great videos, also helps to watch these as what to consider if anyone is looking to start a project. I think my main concern is air flow and what to insulate with what best.
Had my 26x50 garage put up about two months ago after waiting for 6 months from deposit. The company I used did not require proof the pad was in, it still just took that long. I opted not to get a roll up door I used the money credit towards a real garage door. I to don’t love the high threshold on the man door. I’m in the process of insulating now and then will blueboard over it. Overall, for the price, ease and cost it still a win.
I had one installed. 2 problems. After paying the deposit, I contacted the company to get the exact dimensions in order to pour a pad. They would not supply any information. I had to guess the pad size. I did add 6" to each side to make sure the garage would fit on the pad. The second problem is that they did not add a water proof membrane under the walls. Thus allowing water into the garage during each rain storm.
In the last month I have received estimates from numerous concrete contractors to do the slab for my garage. Sadly all but one is asking for almost as much for the slab as the building supplier is for the damn building! One actually wanted $15,000 to pour a slab for a $14000 garage. Insane.
Yeah, that's way too much! Mine was $4500. The slab is approximately eight inches thick. Something that helped me was I put down the gravel, put in the vapor barrier and wire mesh, and built the forms,
Home Advisor pits quality contractors against each other. Got a great bid for my slab (will be done next month), and the companies are backed by other user reviews - so they're inspired to do a great job on yours too. (I would go the extra mile and check BBB website too). Allen's building next year. Can't wait.
I just got a 10,000 dollar quote for a 6000 dollar shed lol. I'm gonna rent the tools, get a concrete truck to come and do it myself with a few people to help
@@viking8781 *_I just read your post and I'm wondering if you ever completed that job and if you did how did it go and what was your overall cost to do it yourself, I'm looking to do the same?_*
The building we had in Florida was I beam construction, with big massive beams. But it was only enclosed on one end where other sections were open. It had an upstairs for storage. It was built in 1977. The company is still in business so we ordered new metal to do it ourselves. It was 40x60 with tall ceilings. I had an estimate for replacing the metal with new and that came out more at $80,000. So we decided to try and do it ourselves. I put in new girts and had a roofer replace the roof with new panels. One end we just repainted it to same color as new panels were. We replaced one end wall, we never finished it. We moved out of state to Missouri. This place has a 40x65 building all insulated and had a wood burner in it, which I just bought a new one and I'm hooking it up now. I've been slowly trying to kill of the mice population. It's a nice looking building you have and overtime you will have it finished I'm sure.
i have a metal building 24ftx30ft its setting on a concrete slab and later added 20ft to it and it has a drip edge .the part thats on the slab water comes in i have sealed it with everything i know of even hot tar
In a later video I used a clear indoor/outdoor caulking to seal the bottom outside of the building to the concrete. The caulking is freeze and crack proof and has worked great so far.
Yes! It took them a couple months but we got it. We tried to bargain with them as the replacement door was taking longer than expected and we wanted the money back for the door so we could put it towards an actual garage door but they said no. That is crazy they installed the door 4 inches too high. There are a couple of flaws in this building but I let it go as they did a good job overall. What are they doing to fix your door situation?
im going for 24x30,...i want a residential sectional door i usex to install them,....good video answers alot of questions,i plan on 10 ft height walls, 4 inch slab w footings, permits,etc ill probably add gutters and downspouts,and my own better man door s n window...even a woodstove ,thinking of getting roof insulated ,if the price is right,slab has a bid for 5400. nearly level ,with setbacks
Great video, I'm looking to do the same thing. What was the cost of the pad and building? Also I didn't notice you mention the height, just the LxW. Thanks
The pad which is 31x23 and is anywhere from 7 to 10 inches thick, thickest in the middle, was $4500 labor and materials for the cement. I installed the forms, wire mesh, vapor barrier and put down the stone. The legs are 10 feet high. The ceiling in the middle is around 13 feet high.
I have huge boulders in my yard and digging post holes or even a foundation is ridiculously difficult. My wife and I had to dig 9 holes for our 16 foot by 22 foot covered porch. It took us longer to dig the 9 holes than it did to build the covered porch. We bought a no nonsense jackhammer to get through the rock to get down 3 feet like the inspector wanted. Our house is kind of small so this garage will be an "extra room" where we can have parties and get togethers so I want the inside drywalled and nice. I also got a garage in a day and am always using it.
I had a different company put in my metal garage, and even paid extra for the engineering, which had a 4" battered edge on my concrete slab! There was no butyl tape under the frame, no sill seal, no caulking, no transition flashing, NOTHING!!! Water gets sucked under the frame like a vacuum cleaner! Any cheap solutions?
The permit for my building included the pad and any construction related to the building. Since my building is under 1000 square feet, I was only required to get a zoning permit, not a building permit. The inspection basically consisted of the inspector confirming there was a building and that the building is where I said it was going to be.
If the building is on a slab that is bigger than the building, how did they keep water from coming in around the bottom? Thanks, I need all the help I can get.
I poured my slab with a continuous brick ledge all the way around it’s an 1 1/2” drop below slab elevation. When they sheath the walls with the metal panels they run the metal to the brick ledge elevation. This provided the necessary waterproofing without using silicone or some other type of membrane.
I've been sitting here all day long watching this building being built, I agree with a lot of your subscribers that said you built two buildings but I also agree it worked out great and it's the way I would have to do it also. One thing is that you got to use the building as you were finishing it off. I will be building one of these in the next year or so piece by piece as I've done the concrete, one slab at a time. Have subscribed to your channel I would like you to return the favor if you could thank you for the great videos
I'm getting Carolina carports to build a garage for me. What camera did you use to video your time lapse? I have tried to use a GoPro but the battery dies too fast. Thank you for your video
This building is set on a pad and has a steel structure. A pole barn is built with posts in the ground. We basically live on a rock pile where it is extremely difficult to excavate or dig post holes. I would have built a pole barn as it would have been a little cheaper and the door situation would have been better. The advantage to this building is there are no posts in the ground that will eventually rot and it is installed as part of the cost.
What is the interior height? I need a minimum of 11' of clearance with 12' being optimum. I am installing a 2-post lift (centered in the garage toward the back) for my own use and can save fat $$ by not increasing wall height for the building I am planning out. I'd rather spend that $$ on a 6" slab and upgraded beams and sheeting. The jump from 9' to 10' walls isn't much (easily within budget) but the jump to 11' and 12' walls is steep (reaching end of budget and wife's patience). Beyond 12' and the price is prohibitive.
I'm curious if any water will come in from the perimeter of the steel frame. since sidings sits on top of the concrete. I have seen some metal building that metal sidings actually over lap the notched concrete. just curious
I wish the metal could have overlapped over the concrete but basically this building is a car port with sides. in one of my videos I showed putting sealant around the perimeter. water will absolutely come in if you don't.
Me too! I have plans to change the door in the future. What I do for now is close the door on the outside and then I have holes drilled in the slides that push in to the frame to lock the door. I put pins through the holes I drilled so the door can't be opened from the outside.
@@brettleybuilt thank you! When you change out the door please post the company you use- I thought this door was going to be easier to open than my storage unit- it is for now But I believe it could misshapen and come out of the rollers. Bummer.
did you rough plum for your fuse box? I am having the same company build a shop for me and I am having the plumber rough in a bathroom. Would I need to add a tube in the concrete for the electrical as well? I am getting a 30x50ft 14 high shop built. just waiting for dry weather in TN
Yes. I put the conduit in place and they poured the concrete around it. I am sure you aren't an idiot, but make sure your conduit is placed such that you can keep your concrete reveal around the building (my requirement was at least 6 inches from the building to the edge of the concrete) and leave room for the 2 1/2 inch building frame. That means I placed my conduit about 9 inches in from the edge of the concrete.
@@brettleybuilt what ID size conduit did you use? I an not sure where they are going to run the electricity so i may need them to put a few in. thanks. in TN where would i find the regulations to know how far from the wall?
The cement pad is between 6 and 9 inches thick, with it being thicker toward the middle. The cement pad is 23 feet by 32 feet. It cost $4600 for the pad. The building is 22 feet wide by 30 feet long. It costed $9300 and that included setup.
Just got mine put in on Monday before Christmas. I'm happy with it so far, only 2 complaints.... wish there was a different way to anchor to concrete than using tabs... also wish they would tell you that screws aren't going to color match...
@@brettleybuilt they won’t be back until they have another install in the area. If they don’t make it right the company needs to send a check for the door.
We were considering canceling our order when a guy from our boro told me that the company he ordered through couldn't get ahold of any square tubing and weren't taking new orders. I started calling Carolina and asking "real" questions like: are supplies still available? Will this be installed by winter or do I have to wait until spring? I was always polite, but maybe they just got tired of me calling and put me on the schedule.
@@brettleybuilt didn't work for me with the calling ever other day just got put on hold or some one will call you back , just waiting for spring 2022 , nice garage by the way
@@shaunbarron5637 Absolutely! I got a comment asking why would I frame something that is already "framed", but I have been doing maintenance on my car and using it a lot as I finish the inside the way I want it at my pace. If I had to build this, I would probably only be about seventy five percent of the way done and wouldn't be able to use it at all. If you have the time and energy to build one, go for it, but the cost of materials for lumber and roofing isn't too far apart from the metal building, but I was going for convenience. Not too convenient waiting though.
How long did you guys have to wait to get installed. It's been months since I put a deposit down and still no barn. They keep pushing back the install and I am getting frustrated.
I purposely didn't put windows in the building. I don't want people to see what I have in the building and also the way I was going to lay out the inside, windows wouldn't have worked out too well.
@@brettleybuilt How was the leaks in the building you have to seal up a bunch of spots? I think no window makes for one less chance of a leak point as well.
I had to get a zoning permit in my township. They didn't do any type of inspection of the building, they just wanted to see where the building would sit and that the proper setbacks were observed.
Can I ask a technical question? Carolina Carports are closed until Tuesday and I have a concrete crew putting up forms today... My garage is going to require a stem wall and I need to find out how wide the concrete needs to be "notched out" to accomodate the 36" wide walk in door and jamb. Does anybody have a tape measure handy that would like to save the day? Thanks!!!
My 8' roll up door sucks, hard to pull down and hard to open, not getting much luck with carolina carports on fixing it, they want me to pay for another different roll up door, not gonna happen. It should work as is, only 6 months old and been like this since new...
@@brettleybuilt thanks, just about to build something similar but I am going to put a car lift inside was wondering if I should go 12 or 14 so knowing this is 10 I should be fine with 12.
I purchased a Carolina 21 X14 carport and they installed it on a perfectly flat surface and the first time I got 1 1/2 ft of snow it totally collapsed. Since they no longer service the California area they voided all warrantees in this state. Needless to say after reading thousands of disappointed customers who's carports failed to handle any snow load I would discourage you from doing business with Carolina Carports. By the way my GF and I were actually inside the carports when it began to buckle and were narrowly escaped with our lives 2 seconds before it fell. I called Carolina carports and sent them photos and they declined to help us in anyway. I had thousands of tools and a trailer under the carport all of which are destroyed now. DO NOT TRUST THIS COMPANY!!
Sorry to hear that. People have been giving me a hard time about framing the inside of the building and not connecting anything to the building itself and this is why. They aren't made to have a lot of weight on them. I would have hoped they would have withstood 1 1/2 feet of snow thought.
The doors that comes with the building is junk. The installers need to have less beer. They need to put all the screws in the building or leave them so I can put them in.
Sitting in my yard waiting on them now. Said they would be here yesterday. Canceled. Said they are coming today its 4:55pm still waiting. Took two days off work to let them in property. Wasted two days of my life thus far with no explanation or apology. How hard is it to schedule a time and be there? Disrespectful and unprofessional.
Yeah, I called and bothered them a couple times to make sure they were coming out which I never do, but I waited a few months for the building and didn't completely trust that they were making things happen on their end.
Check out more Metal Garage videos here:
ua-cam.com/play/PLLeTRuTziDk6iU3eXPWaWMI-0D6C5LRui.html
To anyone on here thinking about getting a steel building. First of all, I recommend getting the concrete slab the exact size as the building, unless you’re adding a ramp. If you add an extra 4” or 6” inches to the concrete slab like some companies would tell you, increases the chance of water coming in. Always check with your local township office to inquire about building permits, if you live out in the country you’re probably not required to have a building permit but you might need a zoning permit. I’m an authorized dealer for a couple of manufacturers including my brother who is an installer. If you’re buying a building from a manufacturer that offers any less than 6 month workmanship warranty, you should probably stay away from them.
Thanks for the info
I'm looking into getting, what states do you build in?
I am getting one installed and was thinking about floor level water intrusion. Do you think some general construction adhesive or placed under the footers would be a good idea to prevent water?
They just installed a 24x30 garage for me, very similar to yours, and did a great job.
I'm in Va and I just did 24'25'x12' garage with a 12X21 lean-to. Mine was $14K for the building and the concrete was $10500 cause of my unlevel lot and had to have the back sitting on 5 rows of block. Stay away from Carolina Carports or at least hold that last check until u are happy. Im still fighting with them on several (8) fk ups after they said they were done. And if you go thru another company, make sure they not with CC. I went thru Millennium Buildings who pawned it all off on CC who had Jrs Garages & Buildings do the install. Too many hands touched this building but Im holding $6,151.37 check until I'M happy. Whatever u do DONT PAY THAT LAST CHECK UNTIL YOU GO OVER IT WITH A FINE TOOTH COMB!! In fact I encourage everybody to mail the last check when u r happy, not while they there holding their hands out and saying they are done. Also dont fall for the "prices are going up so u better put a deposit down to lock in the price" bs. Its in the contract, price is good for only 90 days even with a deposit and they will ABSOLUTELY go up after that 90 days if you not rdy to build yet.
These buildings aren't that difficult to install. If there are multiple mistakes something is definitely wrong. I definitely wouldn't pay them until it is all corrected. We were frustrated by our door being messed up but at least that wasn't the installers fault.
That is good advice. They need to make you whole. Give them a written letter with a reasonable future date to complete the work as per contract. If they fail to perform. Hire a contractor to finish the job and pay the the contractor from the the withholding money. CC is terrible.
your one of those guys...............................good luck finding help
I had a 20x30 installed with 10' legs, I had a local door company install my 8' tall x 18' wide garage door, has a garage door opener, lights and all. I love it and stores all my toys lake side, pontoon fits perfect, no more paying for shrinkwrap. enjoyed your video
What's the process of getting lights in there? did you have to get an electrician to get the wires under and in before or after?
@@brayoTints sorry just seen this, I had power in my 10x12 shed located in front of carport. I borrowed power from shed dug a trench came into building and ran extension cord to outlet boxes, installed led lights and tapped into garage door opener bulbs so when door opens lights come on or with wall button ran two outlets off it and purchased a retractable cord reel to reach me side by side and zero turn for tenders
@@darrellkennedy6421 ty
Oooo, mine is from Alan`s also. Love mine. Ihave a 21' x 26' one. Wa amazing to watch them working and I was very impressed with their speed and efficiency :)
Us too! I was surprised when they told me it would take one day to install it and even more surprised when they easily got it done in a day.
I played the video at 2x speed. It's amazing how the music turned from somber to a dancing song.
i slowed it down to half speed while Bettley was talking. sounds like hes on downers lol
Just purchased a 16x35. I ordered my own steel man door and going with a sectional garage door insulated, and I will insulate the building.
I have already been looking at getting an actual insulated garage door. The one that comes with it is pretty flimsy and there is no way to insulate it.
I was quoted 35K for a garage with a loft. These are pretty cool, thanks for sharing that. On a side note, seeing that guy up on the roof like that caught me by surprise. Must be a really strong building.
I don't know if I would get up on the roof and start walking around but they are pretty strong.
@@brettleybuilt Are upgrades for the roof offered? I haven't seen any myself. Maybe that would be another project lol You may want a Juliet Balcony or hunting blind... Now I'll have to search how to reinforce the roof structure. Are yours rated 140 mph+ etc ? Informative and great videos, also helps to watch these as what to consider if anyone is looking to start a project. I think my main concern is air flow and what to insulate with what best.
Had my 26x50 garage put up about two months ago after waiting for 6 months from deposit. The company I used did not require proof the pad was in, it still just took that long. I opted not to get a roll up door I used the money credit towards a real garage door. I to don’t love the high threshold on the man door. I’m in the process of insulating now and then will blueboard over it.
Overall, for the price, ease and cost it still a win.
Are you getting an upgraded door from the company or someone else?
What company did you use
I like the color. That’s what I’m looking for right there.
I had one installed. 2 problems. After paying the deposit, I contacted the company to get the exact dimensions in order to pour a pad. They would not supply any information. I had to guess the pad size. I did add 6" to each side to make sure the garage would fit on the pad. The second problem is that they did not add a water proof membrane under the walls. Thus allowing water into the garage during each rain storm.
I have a video where I put silicone around my building. I did it shortly after the building was installed.
In the last month I have received estimates from numerous concrete contractors to do the slab for my garage. Sadly all but one is asking for almost as much for the slab as the building supplier is for the damn building! One actually wanted $15,000 to pour a slab for a $14000 garage. Insane.
Yeah, that's way too much! Mine was $4500. The slab is approximately eight inches thick. Something that helped me was I put down the gravel, put in the vapor barrier and wire mesh, and built the forms,
Home Advisor pits quality contractors against each other. Got a great bid for my slab (will be done next month), and the companies are backed by other user reviews - so they're inspired to do a great job on yours too. (I would go the extra mile and check BBB website too).
Allen's building next year. Can't wait.
I just got a 10,000 dollar quote for a 6000 dollar shed lol. I'm gonna rent the tools, get a concrete truck to come and do it myself with a few people to help
@@viking8781 *_I just read your post and I'm wondering if you ever completed that job and if you did how did it go and what was your overall cost to do it yourself, I'm looking to do the same?_*
@@viking8781how much did the concrete and tools cost you for the DIY method?
Great vid. What a crummy day for those guys
If you don’t mind me asking, what did you pay all together for the pad and the building? Great video!
$4500 for the pad and $9300 for the building.
Dide you use the 12 gauge steel or 14 gauge steel?
@@brettleybuilt
The building we had in Florida was I beam construction, with big massive beams. But it was only enclosed on one end where other sections were open. It had an upstairs for storage. It was built in 1977. The company is still in business so we ordered new metal to do it ourselves. It was 40x60 with tall ceilings. I had an estimate for replacing the metal with new and that came out more at $80,000. So we decided to try and do it ourselves. I put in new girts and had a roofer replace the roof with new panels. One end we just repainted it to same color as new panels were. We replaced one end wall, we never finished it. We moved out of state to Missouri. This place has a 40x65 building all insulated and had a wood burner in it, which I just bought a new one and I'm hooking it up now. I've been slowly trying to kill of the mice population. It's a nice looking building you have and overtime you will have it finished I'm sure.
Hopefully sooner than later.
How long did it take you to get?
i have a metal building 24ftx30ft its setting on a concrete slab and later added 20ft to it and it has a drip edge .the part thats on the slab water comes in i have sealed it with everything i know of even hot tar
In a later video I used a clear indoor/outdoor caulking to seal the bottom outside of the building to the concrete. The caulking is freeze and crack proof and has worked great so far.
Did you ever get your door? They didn’t bring are walk in door so only paid them half.and then our garage door was built 4 in to high
Yes! It took them a couple months but we got it. We tried to bargain with them as the replacement door was taking longer than expected and we wanted the money back for the door so we could put it towards an actual garage door but they said no. That is crazy they installed the door 4 inches too high. There are a couple of flaws in this building but I let it go as they did a good job overall. What are they doing to fix your door situation?
Do they offer stronger doors and door jams that are harder to kick in?
No. And the doors are nearly impossible to seal so you always get a little bit of water in the building.
im going for 24x30,...i want a residential sectional door i usex to install them,....good video answers alot of questions,i plan on 10 ft height walls, 4 inch slab w footings, permits,etc ill probably add gutters and downspouts,and my own better man door s n window...even a woodstove ,thinking of getting roof insulated ,if the price is right,slab has a bid for 5400. nearly level ,with setbacks
Great video, I'm looking to do the same thing. What was the cost of the pad and building? Also I didn't notice you mention the height, just the LxW. Thanks
The pad which is 31x23 and is anywhere from 7 to 10 inches thick, thickest in the middle, was $4500 labor and materials for the cement. I installed the forms, wire mesh, vapor barrier and put down the stone. The legs are 10 feet high. The ceiling in the middle is around 13 feet high.
Why did you choose to have a metal building installed then frame internally vs just framing from the start and covering that with metal panels?
I have huge boulders in my yard and digging post holes or even a foundation is ridiculously difficult. My wife and I had to dig 9 holes for our 16 foot by 22 foot covered porch. It took us longer to dig the 9 holes than it did to build the covered porch. We bought a no nonsense jackhammer to get through the rock to get down 3 feet like the inspector wanted.
Our house is kind of small so this garage will be an "extra room" where we can have parties and get togethers so I want the inside drywalled and nice.
I also got a garage in a day and am always using it.
I had a different company put in my metal garage, and even paid extra for the engineering, which had a 4" battered edge on my concrete slab! There was no butyl tape under the frame, no sill seal, no caulking, no transition flashing, NOTHING!!! Water gets sucked under the frame like a vacuum cleaner! Any cheap solutions?
I just caulked around the base of my building. The doors leak like crazy. I caulked around them but still get water indside when it rains really hard.
Spray foam .
Cut&clean.
Glaxe caulk.
So I was told they do permits but did you need to get a permit to pour the concrete pad?
The permit for my building included the pad and any construction related to the building. Since my building is under 1000 square feet, I was only required to get a zoning permit, not a building permit. The inspection basically consisted of the inspector confirming there was a building and that the building is where I said it was going to be.
If the building is on a slab that is bigger than the building, how did they keep water from coming in around the bottom? Thanks, I need all the help I can get.
In another video I showed how I put silicone around the bottom. It works really well.
You may want to consider pouring the pad to the exact dimensions of the building to alleviate this potential.
@@jimcole6423 Thanks Jim, I've noticed lately most metal buildings are done like you said.
I poured my slab with a continuous brick ledge all the way around it’s an 1 1/2” drop below slab elevation. When they sheath the walls with the metal panels they run the metal to the brick ledge elevation. This provided the necessary waterproofing without using silicone or some other type of membrane.
I've been sitting here all day long watching this building being built, I agree with a lot of your subscribers that said you built two buildings but I also agree it worked out great and it's the way I would have to do it also. One thing is that you got to use the building as you were finishing it off. I will be building one of these in the next year or so piece by piece as I've done the concrete, one slab at a time. Have subscribed to your channel I would like you to return the favor if you could thank you for the great videos
Does the building sweat (condensate) , due to no installation?
I have heard that they do, but I have mine insulated and drywalled. We will have a compilation video coming out soon of me finishing the inside.
What size and cost was this building? Great video
22 feet by 30 feet with 10 foot tall legs. The middle hight of the building is just over 13 feet tall. It cost $9300.00 installed.
I'm getting Carolina carports to build a garage for me. What camera did you use to video your time lapse? I have tried to use a GoPro but the battery dies too fast.
Thank you for your video
We used a Go Pro, but we changed the batteries pretty often that day.
What’s the difference in this type of building or a pole building? I really like your building.
This building is set on a pad and has a steel structure. A pole barn is built with posts in the ground. We basically live on a rock pile where it is extremely difficult to excavate or dig post holes. I would have built a pole barn as it would have been a little cheaper and the door situation would have been better. The advantage to this building is there are no posts in the ground that will eventually rot and it is installed as part of the cost.
What is the interior height? I need a minimum of 11' of clearance with 12' being optimum. I am installing a 2-post lift (centered in the garage toward the back) for my own use and can save fat $$ by not increasing wall height for the building I am planning out. I'd rather spend that $$ on a 6" slab and upgraded beams and sheeting. The jump from 9' to 10' walls isn't much (easily within budget) but the jump to 11' and 12' walls is steep (reaching end of budget and wife's patience). Beyond 12' and the price is prohibitive.
The center is about 13 feet hight. 10 foot legs so hopefully the lift would fit.
I'm curious if any water will come in from the perimeter of the steel frame. since sidings sits on top of the concrete. I have seen some metal building that metal sidings actually over lap the notched concrete. just curious
I wish the metal could have overlapped over the concrete but basically this building is a car port with sides. in one of my videos I showed putting sealant around the perimeter. water will absolutely come in if you don't.
@@brettleybuilt That's good to know. I'm just doing some research for my own future garage. Thanks for sharing
Did you option for insulation?
Good morning,
How does one secure the garage door with a lock from the inside. I dislike that the bolt situated on the outside. Thank you!
Me too! I have plans to change the door in the future. What I do for now is close the door on the outside and then I have holes drilled in the slides that push in to the frame to lock the door. I put pins through the holes I drilled so the door can't be opened from the outside.
@@brettleybuilt thank you! When you change out the door please post the company you use- I thought this door was going to be easier to open than my storage unit- it is for now But I believe it could misshapen and come out of the rollers. Bummer.
did you rough plum for your fuse box? I am having the same company build a shop for me and I am having the plumber rough in a bathroom. Would I need to add a tube in the concrete for the electrical as well? I am getting a 30x50ft 14 high shop built. just waiting for dry weather in TN
Yes. I put the conduit in place and they poured the concrete around it. I am sure you aren't an idiot, but make sure your conduit is placed such that you can keep your concrete reveal around the building (my requirement was at least 6 inches from the building to the edge of the concrete) and leave room for the 2 1/2 inch building frame. That means I placed my conduit about 9 inches in from the edge of the concrete.
@@brettleybuilt what ID size conduit did you use? I an not sure where they are going to run the electricity so i may need them to put a few in. thanks. in TN where would i find the regulations to know how far from the wall?
Are there any installers in Virginia that are looking for quick side money? I need a garage door added to mine.
Do u have footers under that slab?
No, thats why I am framing the building inside and putting a lot of the load away from the edges where the building and snow load will be.
What was the cost of this project? And how big was slab and building?
The cement pad is between 6 and 9 inches thick, with it being thicker toward the middle. The cement pad is 23 feet by 32 feet. It cost $4600 for the pad.
The building is 22 feet wide by 30 feet long. It costed $9300 and that included setup.
@@brettleybuilt sweet and thats about what itll be for me where im at i was just checking. We’ll be using Alans also.
Could they have made the walk in doors to open inward instead of outward? Is that optional?
No. They come in a frame that gets screwed into the metal frame of the building. I don't really like the set up but have gotten used to it.
2 years later, how are you feeling about it now?
@LibertarianUSMarine Here's my 2 year update: ua-cam.com/video/3fFAKa25Ce8/v-deo.html
Thank you
How tall are your walls ?
10 feet.
Just got mine put in on Monday before Christmas. I'm happy with it so far, only 2 complaints.... wish there was a different way to anchor to concrete than using tabs... also wish they would tell you that screws aren't going to color match...
I also wasn't happy with the doors either, I opted to install my own garage door.
Yeah, we got ours the matching color but it cost 3% more. Kind of a rip off but whatever. Glad you got yours put up. We are the lucky ones this year.
@@jordanpiesmith I am definitely replacing mine. Absolute garbage doors and they still haven't made it back with the replacement door.
Your exactly right. 3% holy cow thats weird... it's a bag of screws that cost like $27...
@@brettleybuilt they won’t be back until they have another install in the area. If they don’t make it right the company needs to send a check for the door.
What size is this building
22 feet wide by 30 feet long.
Still waiting for my installation bought back in February
We were considering canceling our order when a guy from our boro told me that the company he ordered through couldn't get ahold of any square tubing and weren't taking new orders. I started calling Carolina and asking "real" questions like: are supplies still available? Will this be installed by winter or do I have to wait until spring? I was always polite, but maybe they just got tired of me calling and put me on the schedule.
@@brettleybuilt didn't work for me with the calling ever other day just got put on hold or some one will call you back , just waiting for spring 2022 , nice garage by the way
@@darkknight2260 Thanks! Hope everything works out.
Was told it would be a 4-6 weeks lead time. Already into week 5 headed into the Christmas holiday. All I can ask is afterwards, is it worth it?
@@shaunbarron5637 Absolutely! I got a comment asking why would I frame something that is already "framed", but I have been doing maintenance on my car and using it a lot as I finish the inside the way I want it at my pace. If I had to build this, I would probably only be about seventy five percent of the way done and wouldn't be able to use it at all. If you have the time and energy to build one, go for it, but the cost of materials for lumber and roofing isn't too far apart from the metal building, but I was going for convenience. Not too convenient waiting though.
👍👍👍👍👍👍
How long did you guys have to wait to get installed. It's been months since I put a deposit down and still no barn. They keep pushing back the install and I am getting frustrated.
We ordered in March 2021, got on the schedule June of 2021, got a building towards the end of October 2021.
They pulled that with me. I told them fine I'll hold the check. 2 weeks later I had my building.
Do you wish you had added a window?
I purposely didn't put windows in the building. I don't want people to see what I have in the building and also the way I was going to lay out the inside, windows wouldn't have worked out too well.
@@brettleybuilt How was the leaks in the building you have to seal up a bunch of spots?
I think no window makes for one less chance of a leak point as well.
Did you have to pull permits to have this done?
I had to get a zoning permit in my township. They didn't do any type of inspection of the building, they just wanted to see where the building would sit and that the proper setbacks were observed.
Can I ask a technical question? Carolina Carports are closed until Tuesday and I have a concrete crew putting up forms today... My garage is going to require a stem wall and I need to find out how wide the concrete needs to be "notched out" to accomodate the 36" wide walk in door and jamb. Does anybody have a tape measure handy that would like to save the day? Thanks!!!
Why does it have to be notched out?
. 👍🏻 INSIGHTFUL 👍🏻💪🏻💯🙏🏻🇺🇸
Can you say what the building cost, not including the concrete? Thanks
$9100.00, installed.
@@brettleybuilt Thanks
Do you ever have issues opening/closing your garage door?
No. Not even in the winter time with snow against it.
My 8' roll up door sucks, hard to pull down and hard to open, not getting much luck with carolina carports on fixing it, they want me to pay for another different roll up door, not gonna happen. It should work as is, only 6 months old and been like this since new...
I may have missed it, what was the height? 10'
The legs of the building are 10 feet. The ceiling is closer to 12 feet in the middle.
@@brettleybuilt thanks, just about to build something similar but I am going to put a car lift inside was wondering if I should go 12 or 14 so knowing this is 10 I should be fine with 12.
ok the 6" difference would piss me off! just sayn
Yeah, I don't really like it and am absolutely a perfectionist, but I am kind of getting used to the apron around the building.
already can see it's a bad crew
water will run unde it
Watch the video where I sealed the base of the building to the concrete.
I purchased a Carolina 21 X14 carport and they installed it on a perfectly flat surface and the first time I got 1 1/2 ft of snow it totally collapsed. Since they no longer service the California area they voided all warrantees in this state. Needless to say after reading thousands of disappointed customers who's carports failed to handle any snow load I would discourage you from doing business with Carolina Carports. By the way my GF and I were actually inside the carports when it began to buckle and were narrowly escaped with our lives 2 seconds before it fell. I called Carolina carports and sent them photos and they declined to help us in anyway. I had thousands of tools and a trailer under the carport all of which are destroyed now. DO NOT TRUST THIS COMPANY!!
Sorry to hear that. People have been giving me a hard time about framing the inside of the building and not connecting anything to the building itself and this is why. They aren't made to have a lot of weight on them. I would have hoped they would have withstood 1 1/2 feet of snow thought.
1.5’ of snow is a LOT of weight!
The doors that comes with the building is junk. The installers need to have less beer. They need to put all the screws in the building or leave them so I can put them in.
Yes, the doors are nearly worthless.
Sitting in my yard waiting on them now. Said they would be here yesterday. Canceled. Said they are coming today its 4:55pm still waiting. Took two days off work to let them in property. Wasted two days of my life thus far with no explanation or apology. How hard is it to schedule a time and be there? Disrespectful and unprofessional.
Yeah, I called and bothered them a couple times to make sure they were coming out which I never do, but I waited a few months for the building and didn't completely trust that they were making things happen on their end.
What height are your legs? I've been trying to figure out of the legs at 12' what the height of the peak is
The legs are 10 feet. The center height is almost 13 feet as the building is 22 feet wide.