Such an interesting wall, the one with the purple circles on it. Was interesting to see the climbers doubting whether they would stick to the wall, but just having to go for it. Mindgames :)
Great video, thank you. Very subtle differences seem to make or break an ascent. Jakob Schubert seemed the most "unaufgeregt" on the dyno in M1 (Semis). Stefan Scarperi seemed to keep just a tad closer to the wall on M3 (finals), but was that a result of superior finger strength or the difference that allowed his fingers to hold on? And I could not see the difference between Adam's successful and Jakob's unsuccessful attempt on M1 (Finals)...
hi Udo, I wanted to ask you in Innsbruck but I forgot, can you tell me why Jan never uses his little fingers? He always uses 3 fingers, even if there is plenty of room. Is it just preference?
kochos leavemealonegplus - several reasons: you increase the strength of the 3 fingers if you pull the pinky towards your wrist. On pockets this makes a huge difference. Even more important, often hand and forearm are better aligned this way. Also, Jan is a big guy with bigger hands than most climbers, very often there just is not plenty of room left for his hands on a hold...
udini Interesting! I guess, that's the quadriga-effect? That does make a lot of sense, when the limiting factor is indeed the strength of his muscles and not the tendons (and considering that pinky front lever he can do, it is definitely not the tendons), there would be nothing gained by adding another finger. So would you recommend doing it that way for most climbers?
ClimbingCalisthenics Many climbers actually are already doing it, either for increasing strength on pockets or for better hand / forearm alignment, the smaller the pivot point, the easy it is to control.
udini I'll definitely do some experimentation on that next time I go climbing. On the smaller pockets I usually do it anyway, but I'll fiddle around with the rest. Thanks for answering!
I find it hard to like Adam because of how angry he gets when he falls. I realise some would just say its because he's passionate, but to me it just looks like he's taking a tantrum.
+philipjwh2580 to me it actually makes him more likeable, not less. given he shows such incredible strength in his climbing, it's nice to see he's human after all...
wait WHAT!?!?! Watch some of his videos, he's just about the most positive climber you will EVER see climb. That look has everything to do with passion and determination. He gets emotional when climbing all the time, but it is followed up with a huge smile, EVERY SINGLE TIME... He is the least negative person you will ever meet man, he has not the slightest ounce of negativity in him, not even slightly... He isn't an angry person at all, you just have to watch his vids and see how he is, that's all. Watch his videos and you wouldn't even feel remotely close to how you feel about him right now, you just got to believe me... Check out some of his documentaries, they are incredible to watch anyways.
The side view cameras really help show how difficult these problems are.
Adam's ability and passion is very inspiring!
Quality fucking video. Thanks for making this.
Props for the editing, quality work right there ;)
Nice vid, thanx for the clear editing so there is enough time to actualy watch the combing! ;)
Really high quality video, great job.
The fourth problem in group B was also solved by Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor, from Poland in 4 attempts (and in less time than Adam and Jan!)
Such an interesting wall, the one with the purple circles on it. Was interesting to see the climbers doubting whether they would stick to the wall, but just having to go for it. Mindgames :)
Great video, thank you.
Very subtle differences seem to make or break an ascent. Jakob Schubert seemed the most "unaufgeregt" on the dyno in M1 (Semis).
Stefan Scarperi seemed to keep just a tad closer to the wall on M3 (finals), but was that a result of superior finger strength or the difference that allowed his fingers to hold on?
And I could not see the difference between Adam's successful and Jakob's unsuccessful attempt on M1 (Finals)...
Udini, you rock!!!
Great work, more of this please
Great work, thank you!
really REALLY nice video man
Not "top make climbers compare", but "Adam Ondra highlights"
Thanks for the good music as well. Always apreciated.
Amazing problems! The pink circles one was sick.
Awesome video and great music! Can you write down the names of the tracks, please? :D
first song is Print by MindxFactory, dont know what the other songs are
M4 (finals) would have made a great overlay video, too - at the beginning, Jan and Adam looked "deckungsgleich" :)
The Italian had a couple of powerful moments there, when he pulled real hard on that small hold.
great tunes. what is that playing at around 5:30?
Geiles Vid. Freu mich umso mehr wenn ich wieder an die Wand kann
very nice Video! more, please
great video also nice music!
Does anybody know the song that starts 4:27 till female vocals ?
+Kate Therova Its "Get Lost" by Niklas Gustavsson ft. Lucy you can find it on soundcloud or YT. Awesome track!!
Top video like always :)
Adam is the man!!
What is Adam dipping his fingers into?
prozeza water
William Point What for?
prozeza his skin was too hard. Good for rock, not so good for plastic slopers!
udini Thanks for the explanation. :)
udini It's because, he has extremely dry skin... Source: Adrian explains is during the livestream in Innsbruck.
Hi,
pls whats the name of the tracks at 0:01, 6:21, 12:40 ?
Can anyone tell me why sometimes they gotta touch the nobs like at 5:03. is it a rule? sorry, I have no idea about rock climbing or bouldering
hi Udo, I wanted to ask you in Innsbruck but I forgot, can you tell me why Jan never uses his little fingers? He always uses 3 fingers, even if there is plenty of room. Is it just preference?
kochos leavemealonegplus - several reasons: you increase the strength of the 3 fingers if you pull the pinky towards your wrist. On pockets this makes a huge difference. Even more important, often hand and forearm are better aligned this way. Also, Jan is a big guy with bigger hands than most climbers, very often there just is not plenty of room left for his hands on a hold...
udini Interesting! I guess, that's the quadriga-effect? That does make a lot of sense, when the limiting factor is indeed the strength of his muscles and not the tendons (and considering that pinky front lever he can do, it is definitely not the tendons), there would be nothing gained by adding another finger. So would you recommend doing it that way for most climbers?
ClimbingCalisthenics Many climbers actually are already doing it, either for increasing strength on pockets or for better hand / forearm alignment, the smaller the pivot point, the easy it is to control.
udini I'll definitely do some experimentation on that next time I go climbing. On the smaller pockets I usually do it anyway, but I'll fiddle around with the rest. Thanks for answering!
thanks for reply udini when i recover from my current ankle injury I'll definitely experiment with that!
What is the first song please??
this isnt a proper comparison because adam would be screaming and yelling if you didnt edit music over him
Hojar is my favourite climber. But Jesus, Ondra is a machine.
Didn't Jan flash the last problem?
Wonderfull video, as always. But what's the track called starting at 4:15?
Simon U. Get lost by Niklas Gustavsson, featuring Lucy
who won?
what does sole attempt/ascent mean?
thanks
It means the only ascent/send if the problem during the competition...
Soundtracks?
что за трек на 4.15 подскажите!!!
porque adam ondra me las manos en agua?
Why is that dude going so slow
Where is bulgaria???
South of Hungary, East of Serbia.
looks easy until you try to do it
Well, guess everything is better than listening to Ondras screams ; )
I'm Czech Adam Ondra
Wejtovka je nej congratulations
richtig musik unterlegung vorallem der hip hop beat
Con le dita bagnate si scivola ,asciutte é molto meglio
I find it hard to like Adam because of how angry he gets when he falls. I realise some would just say its because he's passionate, but to me it just looks like he's taking a tantrum.
+philipjwh2580 to me it actually makes him more likeable, not less. given he shows such incredible strength in his climbing, it's nice to see he's human after all...
Agreed. Some wouldn't mind, but I much prefer the cool celebration of Jan topping M4 to Adam's. Props to both, just saying. Ref 5:40
ya, hes a fucking wierdo for sure.
wait WHAT!?!?! Watch some of his videos, he's just about the most positive climber you will EVER see climb. That look has everything to do with passion and determination. He gets emotional when climbing all the time, but it is followed up with a huge smile, EVERY SINGLE TIME... He is the least negative person you will ever meet man, he has not the slightest ounce of negativity in him, not even slightly... He isn't an angry person at all, you just have to watch his vids and see how he is, that's all. Watch his videos and you wouldn't even feel remotely close to how you feel about him right now, you just got to believe me... Check out some of his documentaries, they are incredible to watch anyways.
who cares?
This is not bouldering. These guys need to go out into the real world and do some real climbing.
you mean this ? vimeo.com/72992600
David Tomášek Good one!
Hah. Adam Ondra does both better than you ever will.