The third connection is for remote turn on as this could be a board designed for Car as well. Most of the car amplifiers do have this remote turn on to ONLY turn on the amp when the head-unit is ON. Hope this helps.
i realize i'm a bit late to reply here, but i dont think this is the case. looking at the layout of the board, both plus sides goes through some large diodes and then merge to the same track. i'm guessing it's either for + 0 - AC supplies or simply to offload some power between two diodes, since the ones mounted dont look like they are intended to handle the full 10ish amp that the board claims to draw at peak, likely both.
combatplayer, you are absolutely correct. The third connection is definitely not for a remote turn on. It is so you can use a split +/- 18v supply. You jump the two outside connections if you are using a straight 24vdc supply.
its designed to run with center tap transformer, so the 2 diode makes the full bridge rectifier, and you get positive DC voltage, if you using normal transformer without CT, then its only half wave rectifier, if you using it with DC, you need to bridge it, even tho its not necessary, but you get better to bridge it, so you have double the stored energy on the capacitor
love the fact you limit the amps. i was just thinking about the boards with crossovers controlled by these knobs, i dont wan them on the front, same for the treble since people might screw it up and the things sounds crap since they have a bad hearing or weird preferences haha
Would you connect this to a crossover if you wanted a two speaker setup, like a subwoofer and speaker for everything above that range? So a 80hz and below for the sub and 80hz and above for a full range speaker? Crossovers are a mystery to me, any advice on ones to go with?
I use that second board a lot. The knobs are pretty simple if you just played with them for a minute or two. There's the main volume control but the other two are independent volume controls for the 1x100 channel and the 2x50 channels, so you can adjust the volume of the subwoofer channel and the full range channels.
Thanks. I figured it out in the meantime, but I still don't like the board. Mostly because the one I have produces a noticeable hiss. I also can't set the crossover frequency, it is a fixed value.
The crossover frequency is a fixed value but you can do two things to eliminate the hissing sound. You can find the spec sheet for the tpa3116 chip and change the resistors in it to adjust the gain setting, or you can use higher impedance speakers. I have mine set up with an 8 ohm subwoofer and two speakers in series per 50 watt channel to make 12 ohms. They're rated for 4 ohm speakers but almost all cheap chinese chips have problems at lower impedance levels. This chip is actually capable of hifi sound with high impedance speakers.
I highly suggest checking out FFcossag's video on fixing the noise floor. For my it's actually the first suggested video on the page for this video. All you have to do is change the two resistors near the central chip. A much simpler and less engineering intensive solution would just be to get duplicates of the speakers you're already using, then wire all of them in series to use two speakers per channel. The higher impedance makes the chip produce slightly less power but Greeeeeatly reduces the distortion and produces better quality sound. This is true for almost all amplifiers as well, it's better to match it's maximum rather than it's minimum impedance for quality of sound, and better to match minimum impedance just for volume.
Presuming you swap resistors and add the jumper per FFcossag's video to eliminate the hiss / sync noises, is it then free of ALL noises? I've used the version of this board without BT and added a separate BT board with mixed results but never tried this one with it built in.
Hi master. Please let me know.. I have tpa3116d2 Bluetooth amplifier board 12ow+12ow 12-24v 3a. And my power supply is 24v 3a adjustable valtage down to 12v. My question is. Why the amplifier will automatically disconnected while the power supply is on?.any idea?
There are some problem solving videos out on UA-cam that transformes the tpa3116 into a much better board than when it is delivered. Quite simple fixes actually
Hi there, was hoping you would cover the aux input as well. How do you switch between bluetooth and aux in? Is it just a case of if nothing paired via bluetooth it will revert to aux in? Or is there an actual swith on the board somewhere? Thanks
It does get hot if you push the amplifier towards its top-end of performance. I would suggest not putting it in a sealed enclosure. Perhaps enclosing in its own enclosure with vents towards the outside inside the sealed speaker enclosure is a solution.
The Problem of such bluetooth boards is the so called Ground Loop! Because the integrated Bluetooth module shows the same ground as the amplifier, it produces noises. To avoid this, you have to put a Ground Loop Isolator in between your Audio Input and your Audio device, to filter out these noises. You can find cheap ones on Ebay or Amazon!^^
I use a separate amplifier board and a portable Bluetooth receiver that has its own PSU with like this one. www.amazon.com/TROND-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Simultaneously/dp/B01B4W40VC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8. Because this has its own built in battery and charge system it is already isolated. I like this also because I can mount the BT receiver externally and use the buttons on it and it is aptx for better sound.
Another thing is the ground loop isolators reduce the sound quality a little once your into very HQ sound. I played with many of them for a build where I was using the Logitech home BT receiver because of its ability to make very good cd quality BT connection. I found that the old radio shack 270-054 worked best but I still was not happy with the sound. I removed the ground loop isolator and simply used an Anker USB power bank to power the Logitech BT receiver. Problem solved without messing with the audio signal. If you get an external BT receiver it can be pretty ugly to just stick it on top so I usually build a cubby hole to make it look like it belongs. Here are some pics for that build to show what I mean: www.dropbox.com/s/at8rp7g5k990tef/20160905_155206.jpg?dl=0 www.dropbox.com/s/xntdx87thhcchqv/20160925_181826.jpg?dl=0 www.dropbox.com/s/fnczs3328uboq2n/20160925_181812_HDR.jpg?dl=0
alexander ghekiere Thanks. I use the SMSL AMP-03. It is a TA2020 amplifier making 13wpc at 8ohms. This little amp is really great sounding. It is nearly like the Lepai 2020A+ but the Amp-03 is a little better with better capacitor layout and cleaner response.You can search on google and see some people have compared it to other more expensive Tripath amps and it is a top contender for a low power option. The speaker drivers are SB Acoustics 5" woofers and some very popular Vifa 1" tweeters. The speakers are 87db @ 1w/1m so 13wpc is plenty when you have efficient speakers.
180hz is okay for a woofer but people think this is meant for a sub-woofer where I seen them at 15hz ~ 180 or less hz so you have to know what you're running. A sub like this would barely get a signal and that 100 watt channel I believe, but not sure if they accounted for this which I doubt is setup to give 100 watts spread across the span of 20hz ~ 20k or 20,000hz so the woofer is only putting out the amount of power subtracted from the spectrum.
I'm almost certain that you could change the pot that's meant for the sub with a pot that will accommodate your sub or woofer because a pot is just a variable resistor. A push pull pot would be nice if you can figure it out so when you position it in you are adjusting the bottom end and pull it out and you're adjusting the top end of that speaker
I use a variety of drivers, from Visaton, Tang Band and some no-name brands from eBay. Future builds will try other brands as well. It all depends on the needs of the project that dictates a suitable driver/s.
Found just this one (2.1, TDA7498E with Bluetooth): m.ebay.com/itm/ISSC-Bluetooth-TDA7498E-2-1-160W-80W-80W-Class-D-digital-Amplifier-board-/272172868192?hash=item3f5ec46260%3Ag%3A5pIAAOSwP~tW6SsC&_trkparms=pageci%253A4c0b8332-c9e7-11e6-b1d6-74dbd1807a22%257Cparentrq%253A314920781590a786ccdfda87ffcf584c%257Ciid%253A10 It will be interesting if you compare this amplifier with TPA.
"Connect the resistor across the input and ground on each channel..." For connecting a music player try a 1k ohm resistor and for a line in try a 2.2k up to a 10k ohm resistor, any higher than 10k and it may not get rid of you noise, but in this case, you can use a pot across your inputs on your aux and bluetooth to something that matches your uses as described. Potentiometers Your 3 pots are STEREO/BASS/TOTAL Volume
Hi. I have not tried one of these amp boards. Mostly because I have not found one with built-in bluetooth. Also the power requirement is around 36V, which means you need a beefy power supply. If I see myself doing a project with this in the future I could do a review, but I don't think it will be soon.
Hi thx for this video. The link is off, where can i purchase the TPA3116 2.1 Recommanded Board ? If i have to choose one without bluetooth, which one could you recommand me ? I'm actually working on the Cantilever Style MK2 (and the guide is well done btw ;) ) Thx, Mazic
Thanks! The recommended board can be purchased from eBay here: goo.gl/wiBr7d I don't know of a similar board without bluetooth that I can recommend, but this board will also accept a normal line input, which means you do not have to use the bluetooth function. Thanks for getting the plans! It really helps me to keep on making videos. I hope your build comes out well!
Well, the one I recommend in this video is much quieter than others I have tried to the extent where you can not really hear it unless putting your ear right up to the speaker.
Hi SoundBlab, Thanks for the great videos. I have used one of the boards you recommend and have had great results too. Finally a 2.1ch bluetooth amp board with no noise! A big warning though, there is at least one ebay seller that is selling a knockoff of this board made by Xinrui that is not nearly so good. The seller I bought the knockoff from is diyelecmall108. You can see a photo of the knockoff version (showing the back side) on the auction listing by sportgogo. It looks very similar to the HT21L-200 that you recommend but has the dreaded bluetooth noise. When it pairs the bluetooth shows up as "xinrui radio" instead of the usual "YJS-68DV4.0" and there is no 5188 passcode required. There is no part number silkscreened on the top of the board, and only a very very small Xinrui logo silkscreened on the back. It also seems the big electrolytic caps are black instead of deep blue in color, but I am not sure that is always the case. Do you know who the actual manufacturer of the correct board is? Do you have a link to their website? Do you know what the differences are between the HT21L-200 v1.0 and v1.2? Which one(s) have you tested? Thanks!
That is very interesting. I have only tested v1.0 of this board and buy mine from an eBay seller called power116 at this link: goo.gl/wiBr7d I have bought 4 of these and so far all of them have been performing without problems. I do not know who the manufacturer is though. It would however be very interesting to compare v1.0 and v1.2 to see the difference.
that's interesting, having just ordered one identical to the knockoff you mention, on a green PCB and the little xinrui stamp, i've done some pretty extensive comparisons. is the bluetooth noise you refer to groundloop noise? because i've compared the boards a lot, and track by track they are identical. there is a single difference, and that is a vier connecting a top ground plain to the bottom one, but i believe they are connected elsewhere regardless. i cant seem to identify where that noise would come from. when i actually have the board in hand i'll do some proper testing.
My assumption is ground loop noise. The first amp I bought has zero noise issues. This xinrui amp I have is very quiet when first turned on, but as soon as the Bluetooth connection is established the noise starts. The noise is the same whether I use my iPhone 5s or my iPad. The noise has two different components, a tapping sound like a fast dripping faucet, accompanied by an oscillating sound around 1.6khz. Wiggling the ring inductors can sometimes alter or eliminate for a short time the 1.6khz noise but the dripping sound is constant. Perhaps I just got a dud, but with a different manufacturer comes different (perhaps questionable) sources and unforeseen consequences. I will be buying the more expensive, and presumably genuine, HT21L-200 from one of the other sellers from now on.What do you mean "when I actually have the board in hand"? Have your comparisons just been between the auction photos? If so I will be anxious to hear what you hear when you get the amplifier.
SoundBlab Yeah, thank you! :) I had to buy it from an other seller because at the time the one from your description didn't ship to Germany. He forgot to write the code in the product description ._.
Timon hey Timon, ist das Teil das du gekauft hast zu gebrauchen, rauscht es oder sowas ? Würde mich mal interessieren weil im Internet immer nur steht total toll oder es ist Müll. Liebe Grüße aus Kassel
I get a slight annoying buzz. Everytime the music stops or I'm listening to someone talk, I can notice it... And I don't have the volume nod all the way up... How can I avoid/kill that noise?
fyi vcc gnd vcc. 24 - 0 - 24, creates a range of 44v but that is only when you are wiring it correctly, you are not. A transformer suited for this type of amplifier will have 2 independent vcc and 1 gnd. that being said you are literally cutting its power in half, and by limiting the voltage, you will increase the amperage draw.
Hi..I'm a new subscriber my question its I just bought a 2x100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board 12V-24V for Arduino..I was thinking to get a 24v / 5A power supply it this will be great to power this amp?
CHECK your power requirements. That LOOKS LIKE a centre tap + 0 - connector on the board AND it has its own rectifier on board. If that is the case you are only taking a smaller voltage from your power supply so your 12 volt DC supply only fed in 12 V minus the rectifier diodes drop, a 12 V alternating current rectified output would be about 40% higher minus the rectifier’s drop. This would be about 10.5 V instead of about 15.5 V. A basic centre tap transformer would work in that case with the three output wires connected to the board, if , IF it is a + 0 - input. The 12 V DC could be fed in after the rectifier IF done competently and safely, it might work if the switch mode power supply adjustment was turned way up but a centre tap transformer is inexpensive. Thanks for the review, was the switch mode power supply feeding the amp with the hum?
Thank you for your answer. I am no electrical expert and had the hope someone knows this error and can tell me which component is broken. I have contacted the seller and he wants to send me a replacement. I like your work - keep it up
I've completed a detailed instructable (with video) about renaming these type of Bluetooth modules: www.instructables.com/id/CSR-Bluetooth-Module-Programming/
Some will hook the negative of the amp and the positive to negative of the speaker because there's no mark so use a battery AA the pos will make the speaker push out neg will make it push inwards and you'll get the correct amount of bass.
@@madsravn2070 You follow your positive wire from the amp to the pos on the speaker and if there's no mark on the speaker you can use a AA Battery, if the negative on the battery makes the speaker pull in the negative on the battery is telling you that you have the speakers positive so as a test you turn the battery around and the speaker pushes out a bit so if the speaker pushes outwards look at the battery positive and that will be where you connect the positive from the amp to the positive to the speaker and mark the speaker + and -
I follow much of your work, and I absolutely love it. Unfortunately this one is an dud. I expected some form of review or test results to help choose an amp. Instead the lions share of the video is schoolboy stuff attaching wires to obvious terminals. What does it sound like. Is the Bluetooth delay low enough to be used for a TV 2.1 sound system I just have to assume anybody buying a DIY amplifier board can connect Live, Neutral and Ground to a power supply. PS - Do you have a discount on your designs for locals. The present ROE makes a $29.99 set of plans way out of range for a pensioner like me. That’s nearly half a months pension.
Thank you! To be honest, I have come to realise that doing reviews is not my strong suit here on UA-cam, and they probably do my channel more harm than good. So I apologise if I did not do this one justice. It was also the very first one I tried. The again, I am also not here to be perfect in every way, I do my best and if that is not good enough for some, then they should rather move along. I'm not saying this is you, I would rather take your comments as constructive criticism, which I find useful to improve. So, thanks you, I appreciate the feedback. Considering the time, cost and effort that I put into the builds, video and build plans, I find that $29.99 is a steal for the average person. Unfortunately, when you consider the ROE, that is something that is not under my control, and even I have to live with it when importing very expensive parts to make these videos, it sucks!
i love this build!@ im trying to make my own google home max type speaker! but i dont know how im going to add Bluetooth to my amp i got. ive seen the Bluetooth boards on ebay but im not sure how im going to power it? I was thinking i could open the amp and split off the positive and negative to the bluetooth but i think my powersupply is 36volts and the bluetooth adapters only accept 5v to 24v mostly . would i just then wire in a downstep for voltage then ive seen those on ebay too this is the amp i got coming www.ebay.com/itm/G-E-K-GA-98-TDA7498E-2-0-Ch-160Wx2-HIFI-Digital-Amplifier-Power-Supply-Black/263121908312?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I have the 2.1 amplifier that he recommended and I really don't like it. It have a awful hiss that low volume and It have distortion at high volume. It is nice that to see an Chinese amplifier that can produce bass at 120 to 250hz but I still don't recommend it because for it price, I can get a breeze audio amplifier and it perform way more better.
You might have a knockof of the amp or its not exactly the same model, or your connections are incorrect, because I am not experiencing any of the issues you mention. Its always good to compare apples with apples, and in this case we just can not be sure that you are. There are many of these amps around for sale, and they are not all the same quality.
The third connection is for remote turn on as this could be a board designed for Car as well. Most of the car amplifiers do have this remote turn on to ONLY turn on the amp when the head-unit is ON. Hope this helps.
i realize i'm a bit late to reply here, but i dont think this is the case. looking at the layout of the board, both plus sides goes through some large diodes and then merge to the same track. i'm guessing it's either for + 0 - AC supplies or simply to offload some power between two diodes, since the ones mounted dont look like they are intended to handle the full 10ish amp that the board claims to draw at peak, likely both.
combatplayer, you are absolutely correct. The third connection is definitely not for a remote turn on. It is so you can use a split +/- 18v supply. You jump the two outside connections if you are using a straight 24vdc supply.
its designed to run with center tap transformer, so the 2 diode makes the full bridge rectifier, and you get positive DC voltage, if you using normal transformer without CT, then its only half wave rectifier, if you using it with DC, you need to bridge it, even tho its not necessary, but you get better to bridge it, so you have double the stored energy on the capacitor
I just found this channel today and it’s incredible. New subscriber here
@SoundBlab 9:05 one of vcc is for remote control to power amp with low current but some voltage
If you haven't figured it out yet, the "treble" knob is for the left and right speaker volume, the other one is for subwoofer volume.
love the fact you limit the amps. i was just thinking about the boards with crossovers controlled by these knobs, i dont wan them on the front, same for the treble since people might screw it up and the things sounds crap since they have a bad hearing or weird preferences haha
This channel is absolutely amazing, useful and perfect for me.
Thanks! Welcome!
Would you connect this to a crossover if you wanted a two speaker setup, like a subwoofer and speaker for everything above that range? So a 80hz and below for the sub and 80hz and above for a full range speaker? Crossovers are a mystery to me, any advice on ones to go with?
I use that second board a lot. The knobs are pretty simple if you just played with them for a minute or two. There's the main volume control but the other two are independent volume controls for the 1x100 channel and the 2x50 channels, so you can adjust the volume of the subwoofer channel and the full range channels.
Thanks. I figured it out in the meantime, but I still don't like the board. Mostly because the one I have produces a noticeable hiss. I also can't set the crossover frequency, it is a fixed value.
The crossover frequency is a fixed value but you can do two things to eliminate the hissing sound. You can find the spec sheet for the tpa3116 chip and change the resistors in it to adjust the gain setting, or you can use higher impedance speakers. I have mine set up with an 8 ohm subwoofer and two speakers in series per 50 watt channel to make 12 ohms. They're rated for 4 ohm speakers but almost all cheap chinese chips have problems at lower impedance levels. This chip is actually capable of hifi sound with high impedance speakers.
I highly suggest checking out FFcossag's video on fixing the noise floor. For my it's actually the first suggested video on the page for this video. All you have to do is change the two resistors near the central chip. A much simpler and less engineering intensive solution would just be to get duplicates of the speakers you're already using, then wire all of them in series to use two speakers per channel. The higher impedance makes the chip produce slightly less power but Greeeeeatly reduces the distortion and produces better quality sound. This is true for almost all amplifiers as well, it's better to match it's maximum rather than it's minimum impedance for quality of sound, and better to match minimum impedance just for volume.
Presuming you swap resistors and add the jumper per FFcossag's video to eliminate the hiss / sync noises, is it then free of ALL noises? I've used the version of this board without BT and added a separate BT board with mixed results but never tried this one with it built in.
Glenn C I'm very curious about that too.
Wondering if I could use a 12v switch on the recommended board?
If I will use this board I will also need crossover or the board itself will do the job?
There is a variable crossover built in.
that was simple and informative. thank you and I can't wait for your next box build.
+James Norris 👍🏻
Hi master. Please let me know.. I have tpa3116d2 Bluetooth amplifier board
12ow+12ow 12-24v 3a. And my power supply is 24v 3a adjustable valtage down to 12v.
My question is. Why the amplifier will automatically disconnected while the power supply is on?.any idea?
There are some problem solving videos out on UA-cam that transformes the tpa3116 into a much better board than when it is delivered. Quite simple fixes actually
Hi there, was hoping you would cover the aux input as well. How do you switch between bluetooth and aux in? Is it just a case of if nothing paired via bluetooth it will revert to aux in? Or is there an actual swith on the board somewhere? Thanks
No switch, just reverts back to aux when bluetooth not connected.
SoundBlab thanks for the confirmation, much appreciated. Really enjoy your content as well.
The spec I see on TPA3116 Ebay boards similar to this (with bluetooth) requires 18 volts min...do you think these would run at 12 volts for car use?
The board in this video which I do not recommend will run off 12v: goo.gl/hjhqA9 , amzn.to/2aC8V4q
The one I do recommend requires 22v minimum.
im looking to buy a adjustable lowpass filter board, where can I purchase one in cape town.
what awg wires you using to conect the PSU and the speakers?
+G Bento Speaker wires 16AWG and power 14AWG, but over short runs 16AWG should be fine for both. For long speaker wire runs, use 14.
How hot are the amplifier and the PSU After a couple Hours of working, because i'm worry to put Thema in an closed Speaker.
It does get hot if you push the amplifier towards its top-end of performance. I would suggest not putting it in a sealed enclosure. Perhaps enclosing in its own enclosure with vents towards the outside inside the sealed speaker enclosure is a solution.
Der Tobiist can you see the chip with the hole in it you have to mount a heat sink on it also use thermal paste
The Problem of such bluetooth boards is the so called Ground Loop! Because the integrated Bluetooth module shows the same ground as the amplifier, it produces noises. To avoid this, you have to put a Ground Loop Isolator in between your Audio Input and your Audio device, to filter out these noises.
You can find cheap ones on Ebay or Amazon!^^
I use a separate amplifier board and a portable Bluetooth receiver that has its own PSU with like this one. www.amazon.com/TROND-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Simultaneously/dp/B01B4W40VC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8. Because this has its own built in battery and charge system it is already isolated. I like this also because I can mount the BT receiver externally and use the buttons on it and it is aptx for better sound.
Another thing is the ground loop isolators reduce the sound quality a little once your into very HQ sound. I played with many of them for a build where I was using the Logitech home BT receiver because of its ability to make very good cd quality BT connection. I found that the old radio shack 270-054 worked best but I still was not happy with the sound. I removed the ground loop isolator and simply used an Anker USB power bank to power the Logitech BT receiver. Problem solved without messing with the audio signal. If you get an external BT receiver it can be pretty ugly to just stick it on top so I usually build a cubby hole to make it look like it belongs. Here are some pics for that build to show what I mean:
www.dropbox.com/s/at8rp7g5k990tef/20160905_155206.jpg?dl=0
www.dropbox.com/s/xntdx87thhcchqv/20160925_181826.jpg?dl=0
www.dropbox.com/s/fnczs3328uboq2n/20160925_181812_HDR.jpg?dl=0
+bear123 you gave a very nice speaker. Can I ask, with amplifier did you use?
alexander ghekiere
Thanks. I use the SMSL AMP-03. It is a TA2020 amplifier making 13wpc at 8ohms. This little amp is really great sounding. It is nearly like the Lepai 2020A+ but the Amp-03 is a little better with better capacitor layout and cleaner response.You can search on google and see some people have compared it to other more expensive Tripath amps and it is a top contender for a low power option. The speaker drivers are SB Acoustics 5" woofers and some very popular Vifa 1" tweeters. The speakers are 87db @ 1w/1m so 13wpc is plenty when you have efficient speakers.
Another great thing with the AMP-03 is how efficient it is. My Bluetooth speaker has a 12v 20AH SLA battery and can run at half volume for 80 hours!
What frequencies cutoff LPF and HPF filter?
Adjustable from 180 to 250Hz
For the first amp you were wondering what the knobs do: one is total volume(sub and regular) , one is sub volume and one is the volume.
180hz is okay for a woofer but people think this is meant for a sub-woofer where I seen them at 15hz ~ 180 or less hz so you have to know what you're running. A sub like this would barely get a signal and that 100 watt channel I believe, but not sure if they accounted for this which I doubt is setup to give 100 watts spread across the span of 20hz ~ 20k or 20,000hz so the woofer is only putting out the amount of power subtracted from the spectrum.
I'm almost certain that you could change the pot that's meant for the sub with a pot that will accommodate your sub or woofer because a pot is just a variable resistor. A push pull pot would be nice if you can figure it out so when you position it in you are adjusting the bottom end and pull it out and you're adjusting the top end of that speaker
Hi! What kind of drivers you use on your speakers?
I use a variety of drivers, from Visaton, Tang Band and some no-name brands from eBay. Future builds will try other brands as well. It all depends on the needs of the project that dictates a suitable driver/s.
Power on/off shock to speakers is or not?
I have not had that problem.
sir, may i use this module to make a sound bar?
You can
Hello. Tell me, please, why do you choose to use TPA type amplifier, instead of TDA? It seems that TDA is better with sound quality. Thank you.
+Oleg B. Perhaps, but I have not been able to source a TDA amp board with bluetooth that aslo has 2.1 channels.
Found just this one (2.1, TDA7498E with Bluetooth): m.ebay.com/itm/ISSC-Bluetooth-TDA7498E-2-1-160W-80W-80W-Class-D-digital-Amplifier-board-/272172868192?hash=item3f5ec46260%3Ag%3A5pIAAOSwP~tW6SsC&_trkparms=pageci%253A4c0b8332-c9e7-11e6-b1d6-74dbd1807a22%257Cparentrq%253A314920781590a786ccdfda87ffcf584c%257Ciid%253A10
It will be interesting if you compare this amplifier with TPA.
you could test this one: www.banggood.com/Class-D-TDA7498-TL072-2_1-Digital-Amplifier-Board-200W2X100W-DC24V32V-p-1100364.html?rmmds=search
if i plug 8 ohm speakers to this board will the output power drop down from 50w ?
According to the datasheet you should be getting 30w per channel on an 8 ohm load at 24v power supply.
i think the other vcc is like remote like ca stereos, that actually remotely powers all devices in the system
On the CSR8630 board the knob closest to the switch is treble, then bass, then volume.
you did not show how its working?
"Connect the resistor across the input and ground on each channel..." For connecting a music player try a 1k ohm resistor and for a line in try a 2.2k up to a 10k ohm resistor, any higher than 10k and it may not get rid of you noise, but in this case, you can use a pot across your inputs on your aux and bluetooth to something that matches your uses as described. Potentiometers
Your 3 pots are STEREO/BASS/TOTAL Volume
Do you have that noise when the cable you added is disconnected? Try placing the resistors there and use a shielded cable
Greetings from Greece ! Do you think TAS5613 2.1 amplifiers could be a better deal?could you make a review also please?
Hi. I have not tried one of these amp boards. Mostly because I have not found one with built-in bluetooth. Also the power requirement is around 36V, which means you need a beefy power supply. If I see myself doing a project with this in the future I could do a review, but I don't think it will be soon.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Douk-Audio-Bluetooth-4-0-Hi-Fi-TAS5613-Amplifier-2-1-Channel-Subwoofer-Power-Amp-/282074498316?
Hi thx for this video.
The link is off, where can i purchase the TPA3116 2.1 Recommanded Board ?
If i have to choose one without bluetooth, which one could you recommand me ?
I'm actually working on the Cantilever Style MK2 (and the guide is well done btw ;) )
Thx,
Mazic
Thanks! The recommended board can be purchased from eBay here: goo.gl/wiBr7d
I don't know of a similar board without bluetooth that I can recommend, but this board will also accept a normal line input, which means you do not have to use the bluetooth function. Thanks for getting the plans! It really helps me to keep on making videos. I hope your build comes out well!
hii how many watts is per channel please
50 watts per channel 4 Ohms, and 100 watts at 3 Ohms for the sub channel.
So, some TPA3116 2.1 hiss? Which ones do not?
Well, the one I recommend in this video is much quieter than others I have tried to the extent where you can not really hear it unless putting your ear right up to the speaker.
Hi SoundBlab,
Thanks for the great videos. I have used one of the boards you recommend and have had great results too.
Finally a 2.1ch bluetooth amp board with no noise!
A big warning though, there is at least one ebay seller that is selling a knockoff of this board made by Xinrui that is not nearly so good. The seller I bought the knockoff from is diyelecmall108. You can see a photo of the knockoff version (showing the back side) on the auction listing by sportgogo. It looks very similar to the HT21L-200 that you recommend but has the dreaded bluetooth noise. When it pairs the bluetooth shows up as "xinrui radio" instead of the usual "YJS-68DV4.0" and there is no 5188 passcode required. There is no part number silkscreened on the top of the board, and only a very very small Xinrui logo silkscreened on the back. It also seems the big electrolytic caps are black instead of deep blue in color, but I am not sure that is always the case.
Do you know who the actual manufacturer of the correct board is? Do you have a link to their website? Do you know what the differences are between the HT21L-200 v1.0 and v1.2? Which one(s) have you tested?
Thanks!
That is very interesting. I have only tested v1.0 of this board and buy mine from an eBay seller called power116 at this link: goo.gl/wiBr7d
I have bought 4 of these and so far all of them have been performing without problems. I do not know who the manufacturer is though. It would however be very interesting to compare v1.0 and v1.2 to see the difference.
that's interesting, having just ordered one identical to the knockoff you mention, on a green PCB and the little xinrui stamp, i've done some pretty extensive comparisons. is the bluetooth noise you refer to groundloop noise? because i've compared the boards a lot, and track by track they are identical. there is a single difference, and that is a vier connecting a top ground plain to the bottom one, but i believe they are connected elsewhere regardless. i cant seem to identify where that noise would come from. when i actually have the board in hand i'll do some proper testing.
My assumption is ground loop noise. The first amp I bought has zero noise issues. This xinrui amp I have is very quiet when first turned on, but as soon as the Bluetooth connection is established the noise starts. The noise is the same whether I use my iPhone 5s or my iPad. The noise has two different components, a tapping sound like a fast dripping faucet, accompanied by an oscillating sound around 1.6khz. Wiggling the ring inductors can sometimes alter or eliminate for a short time the 1.6khz noise but the dripping sound is constant. Perhaps I just got a dud, but with a different manufacturer comes different (perhaps questionable) sources and unforeseen consequences. I will be buying the more expensive, and presumably genuine, HT21L-200 from one of the other sellers from now on.What do you mean "when I actually have the board in hand"? Have your comparisons just been between the auction photos? If so I will be anxious to hear what you hear when you get the amplifier.
@ 8:56 I think they're looking for a center tap transformer 24v-0v-24v
Don't forget that the 2*50watt + 100watt rating is valid at 10% THD (total harmonic distortion)
The "treble" controls the volume on stereo channels and the "bass" control the volume on mono subwoofer output on
Inductances are a lot warmer. how to solve it.
@T Zen very true
I bought one. But what is the damn Bluetooth pairing code? Help!
5188
SoundBlab Yeah, thank you! :)
I had to buy it from an other seller because at the time the one from your description didn't ship to Germany. He forgot to write the code in the product description ._.
Timon grüße aus bonn.
Timon hey Timon, ist das Teil das du gekauft hast zu gebrauchen, rauscht es oder sowas ? Würde mich mal interessieren weil im Internet immer nur steht total toll oder es ist Müll.
Liebe Grüße aus Kassel
Timon , try 1234
I get a slight annoying buzz. Everytime the music stops or I'm listening to someone talk, I can notice it... And I don't have the volume nod all the way up... How can I avoid/kill that noise?
Both output different values thats the power the chip supports you can tell the power difference just by the size of the electrolytes
I used the same board on a friends system. The left is mastee volume. The middle is bass. The right it treble. At least thats how the one i used was.
the base treble and volume and base frequency are all bridged
fyi vcc gnd vcc. 24 - 0 - 24, creates a range of 44v but that is only when you are wiring it correctly, you are not. A transformer suited for this type of amplifier will have 2 independent vcc and 1 gnd. that being said you are literally cutting its power in half, and by limiting the voltage, you will increase the amperage draw.
Hi..I'm a new subscriber my question its I just bought a 2x100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board 12V-24V for Arduino..I was thinking to get a 24v / 5A power supply it this will be great to power this amp?
Yes, it should be sufficient.
SoundBlab thanks! 😄👌
CHECK your power requirements.
That LOOKS LIKE a centre tap + 0 - connector on the board AND it has its own rectifier on board. If that is the case you are only taking a smaller voltage from your power supply so your 12 volt DC supply only fed in 12 V minus the rectifier diodes drop, a 12 V alternating current rectified output would be about 40% higher minus the rectifier’s drop. This would be about 10.5 V instead of about 15.5 V.
A basic centre tap transformer would work in that case with the three output wires connected to the board, if , IF it is a + 0 - input. The 12 V DC could be fed in after the rectifier IF done competently and safely, it might work if the switch mode power supply adjustment was turned way up but a centre tap transformer is inexpensive.
Thanks for the review, was the switch mode power supply feeding the amp with the hum?
is it available in Cambodia? and how much is it?
I bought them on eBay. Don't know if they ship to your country. The description has links. Check it out to find out what you need.
Good video but didn't do bench testing. I would actually like to see the bench tested on a dyno.
Yip, I should probably not call it 'test bench', in hindsight.
you sound South African im based in capetown any chance its still available if you are
my board burned after 5 MInutes. Some Resistor near the big capacitor smells and smoke. any idea? use the board with 24V
Check your connections again. But I have heard that a few people have received faulty boards in the past. It could be that you did as well.
Thank you for your answer. I am no electrical expert and had the hope someone knows this error and can tell me which component is broken. I have contacted the seller and he wants to send me a replacement.
I like your work - keep it up
Thank You !
+MrFreakwent 👍🏻
You need a power supply like that one? And if yes, why?
I like the simplicity that this power supply offers. You can however also use a regulated power supply with a transformer.
I've completed a detailed instructable (with video) about renaming these type of Bluetooth modules:
www.instructables.com/id/CSR-Bluetooth-Module-Programming/
Dual TPA3116 board: Fixing the AWFUL noise floor.
ua-cam.com/video/16k4goWRT4o/v-deo.html
hi, you should have played it once, to know the performance of the board. anyways it was good.
Never forget to wire positive to positive on the speaker or you will get less bass or power
MrBrymstond don't quite understand. How do you do this? Just connect the positive from each output to one another?
Some will hook the negative of the amp and the positive to negative of the speaker because there's no mark so use a battery AA the pos will make the speaker push out neg will make it push inwards and you'll get the correct amount of bass.
@@madsravn2070 You follow your positive wire from the amp to the pos on the speaker and if there's no mark on the speaker you can use a AA Battery, if the negative on the battery makes the speaker pull in the negative on the battery is telling you that you have the speakers positive so as a test you turn the battery around and the speaker pushes out a bit so if the speaker pushes outwards look at the battery positive and that will be where you connect the positive from the amp to the positive to the speaker and mark the speaker + and -
I follow much of your work, and I absolutely love it. Unfortunately this one is an dud. I expected some form of review or test results to help choose an amp. Instead the lions share of the video is schoolboy stuff attaching wires to obvious terminals. What does it sound like. Is the Bluetooth delay low enough to be used for a TV 2.1 sound system
I just have to assume anybody buying a DIY amplifier board can connect Live, Neutral and Ground to a power supply.
PS - Do you have a discount on your designs for locals. The present ROE makes a $29.99 set of plans way out of range for a pensioner like me. That’s nearly half a months pension.
Thank you! To be honest, I have come to realise that doing reviews is not my strong suit here on UA-cam, and they probably do my channel more harm than good. So I apologise if I did not do this one justice. It was also the very first one I tried. The again, I am also not here to be perfect in every way, I do my best and if that is not good enough for some, then they should rather move along. I'm not saying this is you, I would rather take your comments as constructive criticism, which I find useful to improve. So, thanks you, I appreciate the feedback.
Considering the time, cost and effort that I put into the builds, video and build plans, I find that $29.99 is a steal for the average person. Unfortunately, when you consider the ROE, that is something that is not under my control, and even I have to live with it when importing very expensive parts to make these videos, it sucks!
the douk one hiss so bad on bluetooth
i love this build!@ im trying to make my own google home max type speaker! but i dont know how im going to add Bluetooth to my amp i got. ive seen the Bluetooth boards on ebay but im not sure how im going to power it? I was thinking i could open the amp and split off the positive and negative to the bluetooth but i think my powersupply is 36volts and the bluetooth adapters only accept 5v to 24v mostly . would i just then wire in a downstep for voltage then ive seen those on ebay too
this is the amp i got coming
www.ebay.com/itm/G-E-K-GA-98-TDA7498E-2-0-Ch-160Wx2-HIFI-Digital-Amplifier-Power-Supply-Black/263121908312?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
You could use a downstep converter, but also use a ground loop isolator otherwise you can get interference via the bluetooth module.
I ordered one of these on ebay. Looks like its gonna take a month to get here.
Yes, depending on where you live, it does take a while.
I'm in Austin Tx and Amazon has spoiled me. I'm used to getting things within a week.
Are you south African
Cape Town
soun-dB-lab
cool. these boards are so expensive, if u live in china the price is 10$
Toàn tiếng anh muốn mua hàng cũng ko biết mua như nào
I have the 2.1 amplifier that he recommended and I really don't like it. It have a awful hiss that low volume and It have distortion at high volume. It is nice that to see an Chinese amplifier that can produce bass at 120 to 250hz but I still don't recommend it because for it price, I can get a breeze audio amplifier and it perform way more better.
In addition, it have background noise. Which is very disappoint.
You might have a knockof of the amp or its not exactly the same model, or your connections are incorrect, because I am not experiencing any of the issues you mention. Its always good to compare apples with apples, and in this case we just can not be sure that you are. There are many of these amps around for sale, and they are not all the same quality.
@@SoundBlab I contracted the seller and they resent another one for me to test out. I think I got a defective item.
nothing
Aaaaaaa
If you’re speakers don’t produce sound below 150hz. You’ll need to invest in better speakers. You’re missing a lot of information, really.