Very good detailed explanations in the video and on rotorbuilds, Cinewhoops interest me for a while, you just convinced me to mount one myself, it will be my first homemade drone, courage!
Just did this build. It's my first cinewhoop and such a beaut... Unfortunately on my first flight I ended up crashing into grass. Must have fallen 6 feet and one of the ducts completely broke, not to mention I'm a little iffy on the GoPro mount. It seems stable but barely, even with the strap. I broke down and ordered a squirt frame and ducts. I've crashed TPU before and never had a break. But for the budget, I'd say if you fly carefully this is a beautiful build.
great video, very well produced, even though I'm not confident enough yet to build my own (soldering be hard dud) this was a great informative video. thanks
Cool project and a great guild :) I have yet to build this type of a ducted cinewhoop for a GoPro, but never the less really liked your build :) Thanks for making it!
@2:12 - Regarding the wires to the ESC - If you solder them from the inside, they'll be sandwiched between the ESC and the flight controller, won't they? That would interfere with cooling for the ESC MOSFETs, so I'd stick with how you did it. ...and then you jam the receiver in there.. ah well...
It depends on what you get. If you want to go budget you can get a used GoPro Hero6 and use Reelsteady Go. As for goggles you can get away with something cheap like the FatShark Recon V3 and I recommend a radio like the Jumper T16 Pro.
Have you tried the Retile Cloud 149 frame? Great channel by the way, awesome for youtube for recommending your channel. So it was you on the rotor builds. Nice build
I have it here but I haven't tried it yet. It looks to be a much higher quality frame. The ducts are very well done. The only problem is the lack of a GoPro mount. It's hard to find something at the correct angle for these quads.
@@whiffles Niceeee!!! they have it in thingiverse. the gopro mount. Search reptile cloud. Will be waiting your review on it... Keep up the great videos 👍👍👍
@@andrewc3609 Oh excellent! Most people don't have a 3D printer so it's definitely best if a store can sell the mount. The Donut 3" at least has everything you need.
@@whiffles yeah you're probably right. I think for the price they should have included the mount. The thing that made reptile cloud a bit pricy i think is the injection molded ducts.
Hello, as far as the video transmitterwirs which ones I don't need to solder because Im getting power from the camera? I have the same Mamba 20x20mm Thank you so much for sharing ..This was a big help, so here comes a big Thumbs up👍👍This was the biggest I could get, so how about two ..cheers!
@@whiffles Sorry for the Miss communication, I wanted to know what wires go to the flight controller, because if I'm not mistaking you said that some wires on the vtx don't have to be soldered because the camera takes care of that..which ones should I solder? I hope I make since..thanks!
@@rajeevgopal3961 Have you made any adjustments to your PIDs? You may want to lower your P and D terms on pitch and roll by about 30-40% and see how that affects peformance. Also, what props are you running?
I've started to move away from these ducted quads for lighter prop guarded quads. I'd probably go for the Reptile Cloud HD if you want to use the DJI system on a similar frame.
My first build was your cl1 freestyle last month. This month was a Kabab TP3, and I just ordered parts for this build as I always wanted to try some cinewhooping :) I think I've been building more than flying, and it's fun once you get the hang of it! One question: I really don't like the duct colors. Do you think spray painting them would be detrimental to performance?
Hello, amazing footage is incredible smooth, is there any possibility to accomplish something like that on a toothpick drone one of those Chinese toothpick drone, for example Eachine Tyro79, I m broke and I would like to start with something cheap, great video thanks.
It's certainly possible with the right camera and stabilization. If you're on a budget I suggest buying a used GoPro Hero6 and Reelsteady Go. You're going to need to spend more money on the camera than the quad to get smooth footage.
Hey, know of good cheap fpv goggles for this build? It would be my first fpv setup, like the idea of the motion control transmitter, need a decent set of goggles on the cheap don't know where to start
I have started to put items to my shopping cart. I click links on Rotor Builds part list. I see your ref links there. I hope I can support you via these links. This will be my first build. Thank you very much again.
It seems to yar left (or wobble) when flying straight is the main issue, all my trims are spot on betaflight so the virtual drone is not drifting in any direction
@@whiffles Hey bud, fantastic build video. I think what churchofcookie is experiencing is a yaw twitch. What version of bf are you running? I think that is the issue he's having 😬
@@ChurchofCookie How much did you tighten your flight controller down? You want those little rubber grommets to do their job, so don't make them too tight. Try wiggling your FC to make sure it's got some isolation from the vibrations.
Thanks for the video, couldn't have built it without your help. One issue, my Caddx Turbo Eos2 is too narrow to fit between the slots in the frame. Any ideas?
Awesome build and special thanks for the great tutorial! But guys i got a question, is it necessary to have the capacitor in there? I just received all my parts and unfortunately i dont find the capacitor in my Mamba stack :/
I am using a 1506 3500kv in a 3 inch freestyle , do you think these motors are suitable for a cinewhoop build? And which batteries do you recommend for use on it?
Whiffles yeah it had the cap in there. Oh well. I ordered one off of amazon. Maybe it fell onto the floor. I will look there. Thank you for the tutorial. I will use it when the rest of the parts come in.
It depends on the battery but maybe 3 to 4 minutes on an 850mah battery. I haven't tried 1300mah or 1500mah but you should be able to get 5 to 7 minutes on one of those.
You might be able to find a frame that supports a larger 30.5mm stack, but generally most 20mm stacks have small pads like this. It's not too bad to solder with the right tools and patience though.
Do you mean a barometer for maintaining altitude? I'm not sure that's very common on any of these FPV boards, nor am I sure if Betaflight even supports that. I'd be interested to know though!
Yes, I mean barometer. I'm interested this question because I try to make waterproof all electronic devices. I'm using this ru.aliexpress.com/item/33005006189.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1d7233edkJV8NU@@whiffles
Sir can i make this build for long renge nd long flying time ? I get this a perfect build for me ....but my requerment is long time nd long renge ..... Pls sir reply me for knowlege
@@whiffles sir i m a new bie ... Sir my aim is to make vediography of long renge of small hill or river side or forest ....so i need a little long renge nd hight nd little more flying time. ...sir my budget is under 400 doller maximum ...sir can u suggest me what should be best for me ...sir thanks for the first reply ....it's really helps for me
I'm a complete FPV noob and looking at the Donut kit for my first build. I have a couple of questions. 1) the Foxeer Arrow Micro is out of stock. Would the Arrow Mini Pro still fit at 21.8mm? If not, how about 14mm nano sized cams? Just wondering about the width of the mounting holes on the frame. 2) you said in a comment that the capacitor came with the FC. Does the battery connector also come with it or do I have to buy that separately? It wasn't listed as a part on your RotorBuilds guide. Cheers and subbed!
You'll need a micro for this, but have a look at the Reptile Cloud149 HD frame. It's a bit nicer and the same price. If you want a better micro cam check out the Caddx Ratel. The stack comes with the power connector and capacitor, but if you want to run larger XT60 batteries you'll need to buy an XT60 battery lead to use instead of the included XT30.
This won't get you under 250g with a GoPro. I'd look at something like the BetaFPV GoPro Lite. My ultimate sub-250g cinematic drone would be the Beta95X V2 with DJI and a GoPro Lite.
@@lagz89 I had a doubt about this. On the author's page all motors are CCW. rotorbuilds.com/build/18514 Look at pictures. And now I'm not quite sure can I use all CCV motors or I have to buy 2 CV motors. Thanks.
I want to build one, but i don't have neither the equipment or the experience, so my question is, whether i should take the risk or simply buy a ready to fly cinewhoop? ( i do have the radio and I fly a scimitar lrx from horizon hobby) Thanks for the help.
You may want to buy something RTF but keep in mind that you'll likely need to make repairs at one point or the other, so a good soldering iron is a must. I wouldn't start with this build as it's a little more on the challenging side.
@Whiffles I’m new to the FPV community and super interested on building my own. How do you know which battery to choose without burning any of the circuit boards.
Hi! Could you please write up your PIDs? When this drone howers after 10,15 sec motor(s) start to sound a bit high pitch and dron yaws 10,15 degrees on its own, thanx
Are the motors getting hot? This is definitely a loud quad, so there's not much you can do about the noise. If the motors are getting hot you can drop the max d-term by 5-10 points on pitch and roll. How are your inputs on the receiver tab? Is your yaw centering or is it off a little? It may need to be trimmed.
@@whiffles Thanx for the answer. Motors are warm, not too hot, i have observed the blackbox...There is no yaw input on graph, but yaw gyro goes to -17degs..I am testing this inside my room and i do notice that there is a lot of turbulent air (bouncing from walls) produced by this drone, maybe that is the problem, i have to try it outside.
@@whiffles okey, but im still cant decide which frame to choose, donut or cloud149. About the motors is it better with 1407,1408 or the cheapest eachine 1607 with low kv? I want the most predictable throttle management like with my 6" build.
@@TERBANGFPV The Cloud has the camera set a little further back so you'll get the ducts in view. The Donut has better camera placement, but the ducts aren't as nice. Focus on the kv. You want 3500kv or 3600kv.
Hi, I am really interested in the screen that you used to broadcast the view from fvp camera, can I have the name of it and I will try to buy one for me :)
@@whiffles Yes. Why did you lower your P and D??? I have a jolt when flying smoothly. you need to achieve a stable flight without a camera, then put the camera. PID: ROLL (30.46.41), pitch (32.47.42), yaw (30.100.5)
Built it! Took me a while, I learned a lot. Thanks for your video and the patience you have with all the questions, even the ones who criticize.
Awesome! Hope it's flying well for you!
You’ve got a great Binging With Babish vibe to your voiceovers.
Cinewhoops will always reign supreme.
Oh and your builds are so clean they inspire me to build another just for kicks
Great tutorial thankyou!
Very good detailed explanations in the video and on rotorbuilds, Cinewhoops interest me for a while, you just convinced me to mount one myself,
it will be my first homemade drone, courage!
Awesome, just be patient with the small pads. This is a bear to solder!
Just did this build. It's my first cinewhoop and such a beaut...
Unfortunately on my first flight I ended up crashing into grass. Must have fallen 6 feet and one of the ducts completely broke, not to mention I'm a little iffy on the GoPro mount. It seems stable but barely, even with the strap.
I broke down and ordered a squirt frame and ducts. I've crashed TPU before and never had a break. But for the budget, I'd say if you fly carefully this is a beautiful build.
Yeah these ducts aren't the strongest, but there are lots of alternatives to print from Thingiverse.
great video, very well produced, even though I'm not confident enough yet to build my own (soldering be hard dud) this was a great informative video.
thanks
4:20, that's genius! Doing that from now on
Yeah, also the receiver between the stack is pretty genius.
Cool project and a great guild :) I have yet to build this type of a ducted cinewhoop for a GoPro, but never the less really liked your build :) Thanks for making it!
@2:12 - Regarding the wires to the ESC - If you solder them from the inside, they'll be sandwiched between the ESC and the flight controller, won't they? That would interfere with cooling for the ESC MOSFETs, so I'd stick with how you did it. ...and then you jam the receiver in there.. ah well...
Good point! It might even be a good idea to use slightly taller standoffs between the two boards.
Will definitely be trying this out, thanks so much for the tutorial!
I've been so interested in these. All in, what's the cost with a receiver, goggles, gopro etc?
probably 800 USD
It depends on what you get. If you want to go budget you can get a used GoPro Hero6 and use Reelsteady Go. As for goggles you can get away with something cheap like the FatShark Recon V3 and I recommend a radio like the Jumper T16 Pro.
Can you update the links for the camera and the antenna?
This is exactly what I was looking for...
THANKS!
Have you tried the Retile Cloud 149 frame?
Great channel by the way, awesome for youtube for recommending your channel. So it was you on the rotor builds. Nice build
I have it here but I haven't tried it yet. It looks to be a much higher quality frame. The ducts are very well done. The only problem is the lack of a GoPro mount. It's hard to find something at the correct angle for these quads.
@@whiffles Niceeee!!!
they have it in thingiverse. the gopro mount. Search reptile cloud. Will be waiting your review on it...
Keep up the great videos 👍👍👍
@@andrewc3609 Oh excellent! Most people don't have a 3D printer so it's definitely best if a store can sell the mount. The Donut 3" at least has everything you need.
@@whiffles yeah you're probably right. I think for the price they should have included the mount. The thing that made reptile cloud a bit pricy i think is the injection molded ducts.
Wow that footage was so smooth. You cut some scenes to make the video shorter..makes it a lil hard to follow as a noob. But cool build.
Perfect. Hi from Brazil!!!
Whats that monitor screen @7:50 I really need one
That's from the FXT Viper headset.
Cool vid!
Whats the Best websites to buy build your own drone?..
Follow the link to the build guide. I have all the parts listed and then some.
Hello, as far as the video transmitterwirs which ones I don't need to solder because Im getting power from the camera? I have the same Mamba 20x20mm Thank you so much for sharing ..This was a big help, so here comes a big Thumbs up👍👍This was the biggest I could get, so how about two ..cheers!
Sorry, but you're going to need to solder the VTX to the Mamba. There's no way around it. You need to power it from the flight controller.
@@whiffles Sorry for the Miss communication, I wanted to know what wires go to the flight controller, because if I'm not mistaking you said that some wires on the vtx don't have to be soldered because the camera takes care of that..which ones should I solder? I hope I make since..thanks!
@@Barbaric_Iron Are you using the same VTX? You just need to remove the 5v and 2nd GND wires. Everything else you need.
@@whiffles I'm using Rumcam tx200 not tx200u...Thanks!
First thing that im gonna buy is the cutting mat.
My days such good footage!!!!
You made this look so simple but there’s no way I have the steady hand to do this. Where are you based in the US?
I'm in Virginia
Best cinebuilt out there 🇩🇰
Nice built... Thanks for the video.
Great video! What is the brand of that little screw driver?
Wowstick 1F+
will build by quad this weekend and i have that esc and fc, seems really hard to solder the fc and the motor wires.
How'd it go?
@@whiffles Fine. I was to nervous the first wires and I also had to low temp. I have been flying everyday for a week and I love it!
the capacitor welded in this way can break with the use of battery cables
Hello congrts for your very good video. Do you have a sugestion for spektrum dsmx receiver for this drone? Thank you and keep the good work
I like their diversity serial receivers.
with prices right now, this will be a 250€ build. i think a cinelog would be better at that price, although for 170dollars this build would be awesome
Nice build!!
Nice. Is there a way of mounting the GoPro more secure? So that it can fly a Little bit more agile.
You may be able to adapt a Squirt V2 GoPro mount. I'm not sure if the holes will line up, but it's worth a try!
Hey nice build are your geprc 1408 motor getting too hot?
They definitely get warm, but the Gemfan props really help keep the temp down.
@@whiffles Mine getting very hot
@@rajeevgopal3961 Have you made any adjustments to your PIDs? You may want to lower your P and D terms on pitch and roll by about 30-40% and see how that affects peformance. Also, what props are you running?
@@whiffles I tuned with RPM filers and flashed 48mhz with JESC config. Now feels little better but still hot. I am using gemfan and HQ props
Also l'm using a Runcam tx200 Thanks! 🖐️😎👍 Awesome scenery and flight!
Any harmfull effects of sandwiching the rx between the fc and esc other than it getting hotter than usual?
I've never had any issues as long as the receiver is properly isolated with shrink tube.
Which goggle use for this cine whoop and which company remote to operate?
That's really up to you. I use the Jumper T16 and I'm currently using the Orqa FPV.One goggles.
Motor parts are sold piece by piece or it's 4 elements pack?
Usually you buy them one at a time. They're generally around $10-$25 each.
How do you like it now? Do you think this will fit the DJI fpv system?
I've started to move away from these ducted quads for lighter prop guarded quads. I'd probably go for the Reptile Cloud HD if you want to use the DJI system on a similar frame.
My first build was your cl1 freestyle last month. This month was a Kabab TP3, and I just ordered parts for this build as I always wanted to try some cinewhooping :) I think I've been building more than flying, and it's fun once you get the hang of it!
One question: I really don't like the duct colors. Do you think spray painting them would be detrimental to performance?
Shouldn't be an issue. You can even print your own ducts. There are a number of models on Thingiverse for this frame.
Can you add links to the tools that you've used? Screw driver, solder iron, etc
They're all linked in the article on Rotorbuilds.com
Did you use hypersmooth on the flight footage?
Yes.
Hi there, nice tutorial! Just want to ask if the duct can be seen on fpv feed. Thanks
nice!! i can transform my x220s to this drone?
Not recommended but everything is doable
The frame wasn’t made for TPU protection and it would be heavyyy
@@platyfpv thankss
Hello, amazing footage is incredible smooth, is there any possibility to accomplish something like that on a toothpick drone one of those Chinese toothpick drone, for example Eachine Tyro79, I m broke and I would like to start with something cheap, great video thanks.
It's certainly possible with the right camera and stabilization. If you're on a budget I suggest buying a used GoPro Hero6 and Reelsteady Go. You're going to need to spend more money on the camera than the quad to get smooth footage.
@@whiffles thank You for your time.
Love the video! We have the same soldering iron and cutters, I hope you enjoy using them as much as I do.
Hey, know of good cheap fpv goggles for this build? It would be my first fpv setup, like the idea of the motion control transmitter, need a decent set of goggles on the cheap don't know where to start
svnbit they all should work with 5.8GHz
svnbit Eachine sells some good ones like the VR007 but consider not going with the absolute cheapest since you don’t want to upgrade that part often
@@bruhdabones thanks definitely got me in a good direction! Don't want to spend more than 100 on them.
svnbit $70-85 should be just fine 😉
the EV100 might be better if you’re using it a lot, but please do some research!
Please make a video on how to program this same drone
Sorry, I won't be making a video about the configuration. Check the written guide in the description. It'll walk you through the process step-by-step.
I have started to put items to my shopping cart. I click links on Rotor Builds part list. I see your ref links there. I hope I can support you via these links. This will be my first build. Thank you very much again.
Yes, using the links will help support the site and the channel. Thank you! Let me know if you have any questions.
fantastic !!!...thanks !!!
Will put the video of beta flight flash did you change the pid rates?
Sorry, no video for the Betaflight config, but the instructions are on the website. I lowered the P and D terms by about 40%.
Very cool
Beautifull
Hi great video, i basically have the exact same setup you have used but mine is not flying too well did you have to do much tuning?
I turned the d-term way down and I've got really low rates. What sort of issues are you having?
It seems to yar left (or wobble) when flying straight is the main issue, all my trims are spot on betaflight so the virtual drone is not drifting in any direction
@@whiffles
Hey bud, fantastic build video. I think what churchofcookie is experiencing is a yaw twitch. What version of bf are you running? I think that is the issue he's having 😬
@@ChurchofCookie How much did you tighten your flight controller down? You want those little rubber grommets to do their job, so don't make them too tight. Try wiggling your FC to make sure it's got some isolation from the vibrations.
Thanks for the video, couldn't have built it without your help. One issue, my Caddx Turbo Eos2 is too narrow to fit between the slots in the frame. Any ideas?
You can either print some TPU adapters or buy a 14mm to 19mm nano camera adapter.
Thank you 🙏🏽
I like too much. I have a question. If I'm begginer into drones. I need to buy the remote radio controller and the glasses too?
Yes, you need a radio and FPV goggles.
Thanks for share, I would like to have such woop in my collection.
Very good !!!!!!!
It is what I need and I will build this one. Thank you for this video. ☺️♥️
Would 3750kv motors work for this build?
That should work.
What does the cap that you soldered to the battery leads do?
It helps reduce video and gyro noise.
Nice build video, I'll have to get one of those mini-electric screwdrivers.
Awesome build and special thanks for the great tutorial!
But guys i got a question, is it necessary to have the capacitor in there?
I just received all my parts and unfortunately i dont find the capacitor in my Mamba stack :/
It's not required, but it's helpful. Do a test flight and see if you have any video noise or twitches in flight due to gyro noise.
@@whiffles Guess i better get one. Its a 470µF 25V volt capacitor right? Lets see what i can find...
@@LukeLukinho That should work, just make sure it's Low ESR.
I am using a 1506 3500kv in a 3 inch freestyle , do you think these motors are suitable for a cinewhoop build? And which batteries do you recommend for use on it?
Those should work. You might want to have a look at all the other frame options now. Quite a few since I made this. I like 850mah 4S batteries.
Hi it's me again, I was wrong my motors are 3300kv not 3500kv is 3300kv suitable for a cinewhoop?
Did the Mamba FC come with an XT30 connector? All I got were the 18awg wires
I believe it did. It's not in the bottom section below the stack? It should also come with a capacitor.
Whiffles yeah it had the cap in there. Oh well. I ordered one off of amazon. Maybe it fell onto the floor. I will look there. Thank you for the tutorial. I will use it when the rest of the parts come in.
what goggles are you using for this build?
but how does it fly without the gopro? Is it chill or are the bigger motors/battery too much?
It flies just fine without, but I wouldn't try to do any crazy acro with this. The ducts would make fast maneuvers tricky to tune.
What kind of flight time do you get on that?
It depends on the battery but maybe 3 to 4 minutes on an 850mah battery. I haven't tried 1300mah or 1500mah but you should be able to get 5 to 7 minutes on one of those.
Would i be able to use a different FC without such tiny pads?
Great video btw!
You might be able to find a frame that supports a larger 30.5mm stack, but generally most 20mm stacks have small pads like this. It's not too bad to solder with the right tools and patience though.
does the capacitor come with any of the parts?
Yup with any Mamba stack
It comes with the flight controller stack.
Now i'm making same and I want to ask you about MAMBA F405 MK2 controller. Does it have a pressure sensor. If yes which of them.
Do you mean a barometer for maintaining altitude? I'm not sure that's very common on any of these FPV boards, nor am I sure if Betaflight even supports that. I'd be interested to know though!
Yes, I mean barometer. I'm interested this question because I try to make waterproof all electronic devices.
I'm using this ru.aliexpress.com/item/33005006189.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1d7233edkJV8NU@@whiffles
Sir can i make this build for long renge nd long flying time ? I get this a perfect build for me ....but my requerment is long time nd long renge ..... Pls sir reply me for knowlege
The most you'll get is maybe 6-7 minutes on a 1500mah battery. If you want to go long range I suggest using a Crossfire module and receiver.
@@whiffles sir i m a new bie ... Sir my aim is to make vediography of long renge of small hill or river side or forest ....so i need a little long renge nd hight nd little more flying time. ...sir my budget is under 400 doller maximum ...sir can u suggest me what should be best for me ...sir thanks for the first reply ....it's really helps for me
I'm a complete FPV noob and looking at the Donut kit for my first build.
I have a couple of questions.
1) the Foxeer Arrow Micro is out of stock. Would the Arrow Mini Pro still fit at 21.8mm? If not, how about 14mm nano sized cams? Just wondering about the width of the mounting holes on the frame.
2) you said in a comment that the capacitor came with the FC. Does the battery connector also come with it or do I have to buy that separately? It wasn't listed as a part on your RotorBuilds guide.
Cheers and subbed!
You'll need a micro for this, but have a look at the Reptile Cloud149 HD frame. It's a bit nicer and the same price. If you want a better micro cam check out the Caddx Ratel.
The stack comes with the power connector and capacitor, but if you want to run larger XT60 batteries you'll need to buy an XT60 battery lead to use instead of the included XT30.
@@whiffles awesome. Thank you!
what would need to be upgraded to get better flight time? 3-4mins sounds super short
Maybe try a 1300mah battery for 7-8 minutes.
What would be a good build for cinematography and under 250 grams? I ordered my parts and then added up the weight lol. Nice channel dude!
This won't get you under 250g with a GoPro. I'd look at something like the BetaFPV GoPro Lite. My ultimate sub-250g cinematic drone would be the Beta95X V2 with DJI and a GoPro Lite.
but if you put rancan hybrid?? norm?
Thanks for sharing. I have four GEPRC 3750KV motors (CCV). Can I use them?
Those should be fine.
Wouldnt 2 of these motors lose the screw since they spin clockwise ?
@@lagz89 I had a doubt about this. On the author's page all motors are CCW. rotorbuilds.com/build/18514
Look at pictures. And now I'm not quite sure can I use all CCV motors or I have to buy 2 CV motors. Thanks.
@@lagz89 With nylon lock nuts this isn't an issue. Most people use all CW.
@@whiffles You meant these ? www.banggood.com/M3x0_5mm-Zinc-Plated-Self-Locking-Nylon-Insert-Hex-Lock-Nuts-Black-100pcs-p-1065644.html
I want to build one, but i don't have neither the equipment or the experience, so my question is, whether i should take the risk or simply buy a ready to fly cinewhoop? ( i do have the radio and I fly a scimitar lrx from horizon hobby) Thanks for the help.
You may want to buy something RTF but keep in mind that you'll likely need to make repairs at one point or the other, so a good soldering iron is a must. I wouldn't start with this build as it's a little more on the challenging side.
Whiffles thanks for the help ;)
Bro that bind trick is brilliant! Lol makes sense...lol
@Whiffles I’m new to the FPV community and super interested on building my own. How do you know which battery to choose without burning any of the circuit boards.
Is this flight footage stabilized with ReelSteady? Or just hypersmooth?
This is just Hypersmooth on the Hero 7 Black.
When you use ReelSteady with a drone shoot you can find issues regarding to drone vibration and the gyroscope
can try the Sony X3000? thanks
Sorry I don't have one on hand, but I wouldn't recommend it as it seems like a more fragile camera than a GoPro.
thankks for sharing!
Hi! Could you please write up your PIDs? When this drone howers after 10,15 sec motor(s) start to sound a bit high pitch and dron yaws 10,15 degrees on its own, thanx
Are the motors getting hot? This is definitely a loud quad, so there's not much you can do about the noise. If the motors are getting hot you can drop the max d-term by 5-10 points on pitch and roll. How are your inputs on the receiver tab? Is your yaw centering or is it off a little? It may need to be trimmed.
@@whiffles Thanx for the answer. Motors are warm, not too hot, i have observed the blackbox...There is no yaw input on graph, but yaw gyro goes to -17degs..I am testing this inside my room and i do notice that there is a lot of turbulent air (bouncing from walls) produced by this drone, maybe that is the problem, i have to try it outside.
@@Strah1981 Yes definitely fly it outside. Flying close to walls can make it very challenging.
What about the remote transmitter?
You want to know which transmitter I used here? That's the X-Lite Pro.
any link for the screwdriver?? I want it so bad!
I believe Its a Xiaomi wow stick F1+.
Do you sell these assembled?
No, but there are a number of RTF cinewhoops on the market now.
@@whiffles do you have a reputable link?
@@rMr.big13 What camera do you plan to use? Have you looked into de-casing a Hero6?
@@whiffles hero 7, osmo action or hero 8
big rob You’ll probably be fine with any 3” cinewhoop out there. Check some reviews on them.
Hello, if i use caddx tarsier with donut frame, will the front ducts are in frame?
I'm not sure how easily you can fit it. It'll be tight. You may not see the ducts because of the narrow FOV of the Tarsier.
Whiffles do your build suffer yaw twitch or yaw washout? If yes how did you fix it? Also how did you tune this build?
@@TERBANGFPV I haven't experienced any twitch, but I did really tune it down. I reduced the P and D terms of pitch and roll quite a bit.
@@whiffles okey, but im still cant decide which frame to choose, donut or cloud149. About the motors is it better with 1407,1408 or the cheapest eachine 1607 with low kv? I want the most predictable throttle management like with my 6" build.
@@TERBANGFPV The Cloud has the camera set a little further back so you'll get the ducts in view. The Donut has better camera placement, but the ducts aren't as nice. Focus on the kv. You want 3500kv or 3600kv.
If bridge the esc pads how do i remove it? or is it destroyed?
You just need to apply a little flux and slice through the solder with your iron.
How large should the Cam be? 22mm or 19mm?
19mm
Very cool vid
Great job mate! Perfekt tutorial! I Think i will igve it a try :D
Hi, I am really interested in the screen that you used to broadcast the view from fvp camera, can I have the name of it and I will try to buy one for me :)
That's the FXT Viper display.
Nice one mate. ✔✔👍👍🍻🍻
Would a 4S 1550mAH 100C battery be to much for this? I want to use batteries i already have on hand without the need to buy more.
I've heard of folks using 1300mah batteries but I'm not sure about 1550mah. It's worth a try!
did it need betaflight to set up the flight controller?
Yes
What is the wattage of your soldering iron?
It's the Hakko 888D. I'm not sure what the wattage is though.
You make it look easy 😎
But...😆not me btw are you in Australia or USA. ?
Cheers
USA
@@whiffles 3 to 4 minute flight time... I believe you said that in the video.
Hi. Could it fly with 1500- 1800 4s battery and still carry a Hero7?
You could, but it'll fly a little on the heavy side.
you can rwrite youre PID from this setup ?? please )
where is a PID setup for this SET ???
I had to lower my P and D terms a fair bit but I don't have the exact numbers at the moment. Are you having any particular symptoms?
@@whiffles Yes. Why did you lower your P and D??? I have a jolt when flying smoothly. you need to achieve a stable flight without a camera, then put the camera. PID: ROLL (30.46.41), pitch (32.47.42), yaw (30.100.5)
@@airj3411 When it's a little twitchy or you get oscillations you lower the P and if the motors are getting too hot you lower the D.