My local Ford dealership told me this is somewhat of a common problem, and it would cost about $600 for a new wiring harness for my 2012 F-150. After watching your video, I decided to try and fix the issue myself. Mine also had a similar small single wire that was visibly broken from the plastic harness/clip. 30 minutes later, my 'right rear door ajar' warning was gone! FYI - other videos mentioned pulling panels off the rear door to inspect for broken wires, but the location you showed was logical, given the movement of the bundle of wires when opening and closing the door over the years. Thanks for the video! Saved me $600!
I've got a 2012 F-150 as well but there seems to be no clip accessible inside the door, the bunched up wires just seem to lead into the darkness. Did you just cut open the bundle of wires and fix the broken cables?
Thank you! This is the video that really helped me. I found five broken wires. I was able to solder and crimp them back together and then use electrical tape to seal everything up. The right rear window and door locks did not work and the screen red door jar exactly as in the video. Without your help, I couldn’t have removed the rubber grommets and disconnected the wiring harness. I couldn’t find the tab.
Thank you for this video. Been battling that for several years now and couldn’t t find anything on it. Today I found it thanks to your video. Had the exact same issue.
I love my Ford f150 fx 4 appearance package, it's gorgeous! But dam I swear I think we all love it cause of the look of it , because dammit these things have issues after issues that Ford should be responsible for , and they don't not do shit about it. Mine has the door adjar issue. Then another common , issue I just fixed was ac blower , I pulled it out because a piece from the circulation door breaks off into the blower , that was an easy fix but now the door doesn't function unless you replace it. Then a while back my sunroof got stuck on open open mode. Man I swear this is just ridiculous. I have a love hate relationship with this truck.
I agree 100%!! Love my F-150, but, some of the idiotic things that Ford did really blows my mind. However, I find peace in the fact that Ford turned down Hussein Zoobama's union kickback (bailout?) money!! That makes Ford a hero in my book ... and they're still the best looking trucks around, even if I can't check the transmission fluid 😂!
Another possible solution. Replace the switch with a reed switch. Mount a small neodymium magnet on the door jamb and mount the reed switch just opposite it. There would be no wire to flex and break. You can buy a reed switch for a dollar and they are totally sealed.
watching your video and needing to make the same repair on my truck. I was hearing so many similar background sounds to my area, sirens and airplanes. Then saw your channel name. Are you in the Puget Sound area of Washington? Thanks for the video
12:30.. typically, the open fingers at the end of that pin will usually wrap around the insulation, rather than just wrapping it around the copper like you did; and that will make it much stronger. If that's not how these were done from the factory, then that makes sense as to why they broke. Another thing you can do sometimes, is put a zip-tie around all the wires as close to the connector as you can reasonably get it-- and that causes the cluster to act as one big wires, and it will bend at the zip-tie, rather than at the ends of the connectors.
They were done correctly at the factory the problem is the rigid strain relief the factory put in needs to run all the way to the connector. Since it ends about 1-1/2 in from the connector it puts all the flexing right at that location and what you get is wires being flexed until they break. Sometimes they break about an inch from the connector but in this case that wire broke flush at the pin. You are correct about the rear fingers are usually wrapped around the insulation to act as a strain relief but in this case I didn't have a new pin and opening up the fingers that are crimped on the wire is impossible without destroying the pin.
@@737mechanic I see now.. I honestly dont' see why it needs that second rigid cover, since it has that outer water proof condom.. I'd probably cut that inner "rigid" sleeve off and maybe wrap them with a small zip tie every inch or so. That keeps the wires bundled and makes them just as rigid.
Thank you sir. Saved in my F150 fixes folder. I get this message only in extreme cold temperatures for the rear door of my 2010 supercab (suicide door). Do you think the problem could be related?
@@737mechanic you were right! I cannot believe it, layered beneath multiple wounds of electric tape there were 3 broken wires! Spliced then back and the door ajar light is off. Thank you.
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i didn’t even have any broke wires, i just popped that out, straightened the wires out and put it all back in and it was fixed. THANK YOU!!!! 🙏 😊
My local Ford dealership told me this is somewhat of a common problem, and it would cost about $600 for a new wiring harness for my 2012 F-150. After watching your video, I decided to try and fix the issue myself. Mine also had a similar small single wire that was visibly broken from the plastic harness/clip. 30 minutes later, my 'right rear door ajar' warning was gone! FYI - other videos mentioned pulling panels off the rear door to inspect for broken wires, but the location you showed was logical, given the movement of the bundle of wires when opening and closing the door over the years. Thanks for the video! Saved me $600!
I've got a 2012 F-150 as well but there seems to be no clip accessible inside the door, the bunched up wires just seem to lead into the darkness. Did you just cut open the bundle of wires and fix the broken cables?
The harness itself is only like $100-$110 max
Thank you!
This is the video that really helped me. I found five broken wires. I was able to solder and crimp them back together and then use electrical tape to seal everything up.
The right rear window and door locks did not work and the screen red door jar exactly as in the video. Without your help, I couldn’t have removed the rubber grommets and disconnected the wiring harness.
I couldn’t find the tab.
Thank you for this video. Been battling that for several years now and couldn’t t find anything on it. Today I found it thanks to your video. Had the exact same issue.
Thank you. Was able to repair my "door ajar" message. Had one broken wire and many that were about to go.
Omg . My heart cringing with ever scratch of the screwdriver. Lol
You clearly have allot of the proper tools . Are you an avionics technician?
I love my Ford f150 fx 4 appearance package, it's gorgeous! But dam I swear I think we all love it cause of the look of it , because dammit these things have issues after issues that Ford should be responsible for , and they don't not do shit about it. Mine has the door adjar issue. Then another common , issue I just fixed was ac blower , I pulled it out because a piece from the circulation door breaks off into the blower , that was an easy fix but now the door doesn't function unless you replace it. Then a while back my sunroof got stuck on open open mode. Man I swear this is just ridiculous. I have a love hate relationship with this truck.
I agree 100%!! Love my F-150, but, some of the idiotic things that Ford did really blows my mind. However, I find peace in the fact that Ford turned down Hussein Zoobama's union kickback (bailout?) money!! That makes Ford a hero in my book ... and they're still the best looking trucks around, even if I can't check the transmission fluid 😂!
Wow. I have had all the same repairs as well.
Excellent video great job
Another possible solution. Replace the switch with a reed switch. Mount a small neodymium magnet on the door jamb and mount the reed switch just opposite it. There would be no wire to flex and break. You can buy a reed switch for a dollar and they are totally sealed.
watching your video and needing to make the same repair on my truck. I was hearing so many similar background sounds to my area, sirens and airplanes. Then saw your channel name. Are you in the Puget Sound area of Washington? Thanks for the video
I am in Dallas.
12:30.. typically, the open fingers at the end of that pin will usually wrap around the insulation, rather than just wrapping it around the copper like you did; and that will make it much stronger. If that's not how these were done from the factory, then that makes sense as to why they broke. Another thing you can do sometimes, is put a zip-tie around all the wires as close to the connector as you can reasonably get it-- and that causes the cluster to act as one big wires, and it will bend at the zip-tie, rather than at the ends of the connectors.
They were done correctly at the factory the problem is the rigid strain relief the factory put in needs to run all the way to the connector. Since it ends about 1-1/2 in from the connector it puts all the flexing right at that location and what you get is wires being flexed until they break. Sometimes they break about an inch from the connector but in this case that wire broke flush at the pin. You are correct about the rear fingers are usually wrapped around the insulation to act as a strain relief but in this case I didn't have a new pin and opening up the fingers that are crimped on the wire is impossible without destroying the pin.
@@737mechanic I see now.. I honestly dont' see why it needs that second rigid cover, since it has that outer water proof condom.. I'd probably cut that inner "rigid" sleeve off and maybe wrap them with a small zip tie every inch or so. That keeps the wires bundled and makes them just as rigid.
Great video thanks you just saved me a lot of money
AWESOME,,HAVIGN THE SAME PROBLEM,,WILL FIX LIKE YOU SHOW,,,TNX A MILLION,,SAD THIS HAPPENS TO SEMI BRAND NEW TRUCKW,,,
Thank you sir. Saved in my F150 fixes folder. I get this message only in extreme cold temperatures for the rear door of my 2010 supercab (suicide door). Do you think the problem could be related?
Could be but since it is temperature related I would also look at the door latch itself because that is where the switch is.
If the truck was left sitting for a couple days after this problem started do you think it would be enough to drain the battery?
No, because if the doors are left open the computer shuts off the lights after so many minutes.
Great video
Thanks! Easy fix when you know the tricks.
Thank You!
I don’t have those connections and I have a 2012f150 xlt 3.5l. Not sure what to do?
Did you pull the rubber back and see if the wires are broken?
@@737mechanic yes. No connection, the wires are continuous through the door and frame wrapped tightly with tape, factory OEM wound.
@@gregh5787 You may need to unwrap it and see if where it flexes if any wires are broken.
@@737mechanic you were right! I cannot believe it, layered beneath multiple wounds of electric tape there were 3 broken wires! Spliced then back and the door ajar light is off. Thank you.
Is it the same for the right side?
Ford has got to be the worst when it comes to electronic issues. F150's and Expeditions can really be a nightmare.
Try GMC or Chevy, they are much worse than Ford!
Good video, but you scratched the hell out of it
As he uses a screwdriver to scratch the area up...
LOL, It's a truck, not your Prius. It's covered by the rubber grommet. Man up.
@@737mechanic answer says it all...
@@scottchapman5290 The right answer for this type of comment.
You should be a little bit more careful on the paint job, you scratched the shit out of it
LOL, Its a door jam and it is under the plastic retainer.