As a Miele technician for 30 years I can tell you guys that these motors are 30 years old and the Identical motors are still made and used in the Miele machines made today , I have never seen bearing failure but I have seen the amatures fail from being worn down to a nub.... These motors are SUPER reliable.. I have gone to many of these machines for service and have replaced motor brushes up to 3 times on the same machine over a 20 to 30 year life of the machine.
After having a motor exactly like this on the shelf for more than 15 years, today I managed to make it run thanks to your very instructive video. Thanks.
Good Lord! Bought myself an old washing machine motor and stumbled upon this channel. This is all new to me - in fact: I have not the faintest clue with regard to motors, but I think I have come to just the right place here. That leads to a *new subscriber* .
I've had 3 Miele washing machine motors sitting in my shed gathering dust because I didn't understand the wiring layout. As a complete novice I watched this video and 2hrs later I now have 3 working motors and from tomorrow I'll be making a wire wheel polisher I've been wanting for a longtime. Thank you for taking the time to record, edit, upload and share this video. You deserve all the hits you've had and more. Best wishes and thank you again 👍🍀😁
I mentioned a lot of my older videos in this epsiode. Here is a list with links: Teardown of a Siemens Washing Machine: ua-cam.com/video/H_JV7jTH4wU/v-deo.html Reusing Washing Machine Motors (Thyristor Circuit): ua-cam.com/video/tUQg2WiHpUY/v-deo.html Ducted Propeller with Washing Machine Motor: ua-cam.com/video/KTZ9PB3l3jI/v-deo.html Video about the Power Grid: ua-cam.com/video/OBYzvkY2-eA/v-deo.html Video about the Isolation Transformer: ua-cam.com/video/_pEmpvcNmXg/v-deo.html Video about the Lab Power Supply: ua-cam.com/video/J3N6RX_wAJg/v-deo.html
can a washing machine motor be modified to be used for a sliding gate opener? Or other question: from where could I salvage a used motor for my DIY gate opener that is strong enough?
The best video ever. I can tell you spent a lot of time studying these and preparing this video. Good job, it's very informative and i'll be sure to use this as reference if I ever get to work on such motors!
I am an EE, and I must congratulate you on your clarity of explanation. Anybody, who has no prior knowledge of these motors who pays attention, should walk away from this video, at least roughly, understanding how the work. A clear and concise explanation is a rare thing these days! Well done ! Paddy
Now that is what I call a good teacher. Just watching the video make me feel like an expert. Old and wise enough not to act on that feeling, but thanks a lot.
this is probably the most useful electric motor video ever published on youtube. I was sick of other people's stupid 2D diagrams with blue and red colors drawn is MS Paint. The iron powder trapped in the 3D magnetic field is the best visualisation ever my eyes deserved.
Ein grossartiger Beitrag. Das Thema ist super aufbereitet. Gut verständlich, detailliert und technisch toll umgesetzt. Vielen Dank für so viel Engagement.
I found your videos after looking up how motors work for building an instrument, and despite coming out still not really understanding because I'm quite dim, I still watched the rest of them. You're clearly a great teacher, even if this student isn't the best learner. Good stuff, P.A.I.
Thank You for Posting these. Especially all the Work you do explaining everything. I really learned a lot of new things. I Really Appreciate it. I hope you and your Family are all doing Great. Thanks again from Texas.👍❤️
Truly excellent video! I came looking for basic information to diagnose my washing machine motor and I went away with a well rounded education on the subject... Clarity, thoroughness and excellent presentation skills/style. Thank you for this very helpful and excellent work.
Maaan, I wish you can make a 10 video playlist just on electric motors with an in depth examples. Thank you so much for explaining this to us!! 💪🏼🙏🏻❤️👍🏻🤓
This video was so useful to me. Particularly helpful was finding out the parallel configuration is known as a 'shunt' type motor. I am trying to use one of these as a generator and this is apparently how it must be wound to work in this way. Knowing about the potential risk to the coils melting was also a great heads up. Great production quality and quality of explanations/diagrams too. Thank you for this video and your channel.
Thank you for sharing with youtubers. Excellent presentation, full of details, knowledge, and real practical experiments. Keep up the good work. Your instructions and commentary are excellent, loud, and crystal clear. Thank you.
Very elaborate and a well executed post on the subject. Hats off for taking so much time & effort to explain the fundas and the different variables involved and how they interact with one another. Thank you very much for covering the subject in such close detail.
My dad used to work for Siemens. It's so cool how many kinds of products they have and sell from washing machines to electrical panels. After he left Siemens, the company didn't want any panels back so we have about over $1000 worth of Siemens equipment left.
21:44 no. the leftover magnetic field is so small that the torque of the motor wont be enough to overcome the friction of the brushes. the reason it runs when only powered trough the brushes is the way the rotor is wound. it generates its own magnetic field parallel to the magnetic flux lines the stator should have then closes it trough that same stator, so the stator is magnetized as if you powered its coils. in reality the stator coils are optional to the principle of operation of those motors and their purpose is to increase the power rating of the motor without making the rotor bulky. (its cheaper to have small rotor and stator coils than a bulky rotor). you can see this yourself by first exciting the stator coil in one direction, turning it off, seeing what direction the rotor would spin in then excite the stator in the other direction, turn it off and you would see the rotor doesnt care.
magnetize a nail to its maximum and see how small leftover magnetic field it can have when you leave it on its own. now imagine this field 10 times lower and this is how much you can perm magnetize the stator iron core, because the stator is made of special steel optimized for low magnetic hysteresis
An excellent technical video. I also applaud your precise command of the English accent and language, in fact I prefer it to many of my fellow British accents where the standard of English has deteriorated so badly especially over recent years. Very well done in every aspect of this fascinating video...Many Thanks...
Interesting video. I've been working on a Hotpoint washing machine today. It's motor was a 3 phase type. 5 pins, 2 for the tacho and 3 for the motor windings.
Fascinating stuff and very well put together! Yesterday my boss walked in on me watching this video, and we then started talking about electric cars. Thanks!
It will be nice to see you get a solution operational with AVR. You could then use PWM control in conjunction with a PID algorithm to vary speed. Controlling AC with PWM can be a bit more involved than DC, as it generally needs to be implemented with some sort of phase synchronisation.
Das ist echt ein hammer video! Ich bin E techniker aber so geil und anschaulich hats noch keiner erklährt! Hat mir wirklich noch ein paar Fragen beantwortet!
I like all of your videos but I like the ones about motors the most because it's not covered that well elsewhere and it's a very fascinating and much deeper topic than I realized.
Just came across this channel I’m more then thankful for your knowledge, Oh and experience. This is taboo to me but so cool and interesting with this passion in re engendered applications using motors. This is for using any and every tool in a persons tool-bag purse
This Motor was made for Machines up to 1200 rpm spinning, machines up to 1400 had a field-switching line, thats the pin „nc“ on your motor. Just for info. Or maybe an idea for another video, how to switch low and high rotations. Great job man 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
At 9:12 I fully expected the motor to explode into many pieces. I was testing a shunt wound 15 hp motor once when one of the field supply wires became disconnected. Within a second or two, the motor accelerated to the point of destruction, sending heavy copper commutator parts up to the steel roof of the building. Luckily no one was injured. A dc motor using field weakening to run above it's base speed should always incorporate a field loss relay in the control circuit to shut down the drive in the event of field loss.
Respect,mate. I've learnt hips in fraction of time. All clear and understandable on my high school level of physics. Fantastic English for non-native. Many thanks.
Thank you! I love the idea of building an electric vehicle using these salvaged motors and other salvaged parts. I live in Germany as well and see a lot of useful parts lying around on the street every day. I'm gathering enough technical knowledge to put together the vehicle. Thank you again!
why don't you use a 12 v car starter for that? the washer machine motor is for 240/120 v ,,,no work on 12 v battery ,what you see on yuotube is stuff made by people have no clue or experience of nothing ,don't trust them
@@lesstime1678 What you say about the car starter is correct and that's actually not a bad idea but it doesn't necessarily mean that the person running this channel has no idea about what he's talking about. In fact, he's pretty good at what he does. I'm saying this based on watching his channel for a while now. But thank you for the suggestion.
15:00(ish): When you powered the motor via separate DC sources and stepped up the voltage, listen to the pitch of the motor. At initial voltage it's about an A, (not important what pitch) but on raising the voltage 1V the pitch jumps an octave (frequency doubles), then after the another 1V increase, jumps by 1.5x . These correspond to the fundamental, first, and second harmonics in the harmonic series. I assume the rpm (min^ -1) also doubled, then increased by 1.5x as well? Would you get the third harmonic (2 octaves above the fundamental, or 4x the initial rpm) if you'd increased by another 1V?? Fascinating.
This is brilliant! I've always been frustrated by universal motors need for constant speed monitoring. I would really love to see a budget / more permanent option for two DC power supplies to get decent torque out of these abundant motors.
Thanks in a million. Great content. Awesome. Very well explained. I couldn't find this explanation--simply put anywhere else. Great teachers are hard to find. Grade: A++💥
Since you will control the windings (field and armature) separately, I think that by adding very thin wire to the field (with thinner wire but more winding to match the former amount of copper that was used there) will increase torque and reduce speed.
Very useful video. Like the others about this theme. I'm interested in this type os motors, and how to use it to other purposes than the original of it's fabrication. Continue with your great job!
Yes you must have been a Electrical Engineer Professor Motors 101 EXCELLENT JOB Very professional Schematic and teaching , i think i now understand much more about those types of Motors THANK YOU Tim
Great explanation of electric motors. I have LG Direct Drive that has - if i remember correctly - ring with permanent magnets as rotor attached directly to the shaft and something like 30 or more radial coils as a stator. I guess it creates three or more phases to power some coils and it can use remaining coil to monitor actual position and switch phases when needed. It's very simple mechanical design (no moving parts except the drum) with somewhat more complicated electronics for monitoring position and creating likely three phase AC with variable frequency. I believe it can precisely control position and speed of the drum and estimate weight of the laundry just by swinging drum a bit and measuring current generated as it returns to original position.
@ 5:50 - DO NOT remove the resister from the protective earth circuit. Not having one will create a direct path to ground and allow very high current to be drawn in a short to earth. This will delay overcurrent protection (fuse/thermistor/breaker) from triggering and allow massive amounts of current to flow through the short. The resistor is there to give a load to any short to ground and trip the overcurrent device before high current develops in the short.
so, if yu energise the enclosure of the device with 100 Volts, then the ground current to earth will be 0.1 milliamps through your 1 megaohm resistor ? I hope that your residual earth current protection device can detect this....
I didn't explain it very well in my initial post, so I will go into more detail here: First, that resistor is for ground loop protection. If you don't know what that is, I suggest you look it up. Second, Europe uses 240VAC, not 100V. To get the full potential of the motor you would want to use full voltage. Also, since it is from a washing machine, it is designed to run off of a GFCI circuit. Those ARE sensitive enough to notice leakage of current to ground in the 0.1A range. For dangerous voltages (36V AC or DC, the current safety standard and yes it did change a few years back), you should not make changes to the safety systems in the circuit. If you don't know why something is in there, don't just take it out. You can kill or injure yourself or other people really easily with even what would be considered "low voltage".
Ouch. Bad information is worse than no information. 240VAC so 340VDC peak, through a 1M resistor, thats 0.00034A, 0.34 *mA* not 0.1A. a GFCI breaker typically takes 0.05A (50mA) to trip, about 150 times more current than this resistor will allow at peak mains voltage. So in the event of a failure, where the motor chassis gets shorted to the active/hot input, this resistor will mean the GFCI protection is not triggered, and will allow the motor chassis to go live. To be clear, this means the motor is effectively not earthed. This mostly defeats the traditional purpose of the protective earth connection, but this resistor is required, as the normal operation of the motor will cause it to induce currents in its chassis, which may be high enough to cause false triggering of the GFCI protection. The connection to protective earth via the resistor is most likely merely for discharge and RF loading. The motor chassis is weakly held at ground potential, so any charge is slowly dissipated, preventing ESD and helping to minimise EMI. Removing the resistor and giving the motor chassis a direct connection to earth will not cause a safety hazard, but may cause your GFCI protection to trip unnecessarily. The metal chassis of the washing machine itself should also have its own connection to protective earth, which will not have such a resistor in series, so the washing machine as a whole should still allow GFCI protection to serve its purpose.
Yes, I fudged my math on this. I was tired when I wrote it and made a mistake. It was not a mistake that would have injured anyone or caused damage to equipment. I said to leave the part in place unless you know what it does. As for my qualifications to give advice, I was an industrial electrician and a radio technician before I retired. I have been trained to work safely on up to 600V AC circuits and to construct and/or modify them as needed. It has been several years since I retired and my health is not always 100% anymore, hence why I retired. First, you seem to know some about AC, but not as much as you think you do. The term is peak voltage, not DC voltage. The equivalent DC voltage is the RMS voltage of the AC sine wave. Next, this is the ground for the motor and its drive. The case of the washer was grounded normally through the ground of the plug, so if the chassis was energized, there would be a low impedance path to ground that would trip the GFCI anyway. Also, a purely restive load is not what is used to couple RF or AC wave forms to ground. You use a low pass filter, like a capacitor to snub those (shunt to ground) and tune it to pass no more than 55 Hz (for this EU unit). They might be using the reactive capacitance of the motor brushes with the resistor to make this filter cheaply. Without looking at the design in detail or talking to the design engineers, this is speculation. Regardless, that resistor wouldn't be there unless it served an important function and therefore should remain until you at least know what it does. If you run the motor off of an isolation transformer, yes, you would want to ground the chassis and you could take out the resistor in this case. If it is part of the filter system, you will make something that is RF noisy since there will be commutation noise from the brushes switching. This can be eliminated by using a shielded case that is grounded (AKA a Faraday cage). However, you should only ground through the building's grounding conductor (referred by laymen as simply 'ground') regardless of the method of supplying power. This will prevent what is known as a grounding loop. A ground loop occurs when the neutral line to a device is lost and the chassis of the device becomes the path to ground or when a short to ground from the live line happens. If you have other low impedance or resistance connections to ground, like a direct chassis ground on a device instead of using the grounding conductor, you have a parallel circuit and it will charge the chassis of the other device to full potential (voltage), but will act as a current divider and will prevent the OCPD (breaker, fuse, or thermal override) from tripping as quickly as it should (see Kirchhoff's first law or read up on parallel circuits). This leaves potentially lethal voltage and current on the chassis of both devices. Always ground through the building's grounding conductor so that only serial circuits can be made by shorted devices. OCPDs do not trip fast enough to protect a person from shock or electrocution unless they are a GFCI. It is even possible to have lethal voltage in a ground loop without producing enough draw to trip the OCPD since the path may have enough impedance to draw currents below the rating for the circuit.
If I'm not mistaking around 23:30 I think you could insert permanant magnets and then spin the commutator and generate, is this correct? Good video. Thank you
Two thumbs up! I can't wait to see your new approach to controlling the speed. I hope you provide an analog circuit for control as well as the arduino approach. It shouldn't be too difficult, right? Maybe the analog approach video should precede the digital control method. Although I see where this is going and it is others who would benefit... Cheers
great video, I have one motor waiting for the solution to become useful. Thank you for your investigations, it helps a lot people like me with not much resources but interest into learning and reusing things. Waiting for your conclusions. Thanks again.
As a Miele technician for 30 years I can tell you guys that these motors are 30 years old and the Identical motors are still made and used in the Miele machines made today , I have never seen bearing failure but I have seen the amatures fail from being worn down to a nub.... These motors are SUPER reliable.. I have gone to many of these machines for service and have replaced motor brushes up to 3 times on the same machine over a 20 to 30 year life of the machine.
After having a motor exactly like this on the shelf for more than 15 years, today I managed to make it run thanks to your very instructive video. Thanks.
Good Lord! Bought myself an old washing machine motor and stumbled upon this channel. This is all new to me - in fact: I have not the faintest clue with regard to motors, but I think I have come to just the right place here. That leads to a *new subscriber* .
I've had 3 Miele washing machine motors sitting in my shed gathering dust because I didn't understand the wiring layout. As a complete novice I watched this video and 2hrs later I now have 3 working motors and from tomorrow I'll be making a wire wheel polisher I've been wanting for a longtime. Thank you for taking the time to record, edit, upload and share this video. You deserve all the hits you've had and more. Best wishes and thank you again 👍🍀😁
I mentioned a lot of my older videos in this epsiode. Here is a list with links:
Teardown of a Siemens Washing Machine:
ua-cam.com/video/H_JV7jTH4wU/v-deo.html
Reusing Washing Machine Motors (Thyristor Circuit):
ua-cam.com/video/tUQg2WiHpUY/v-deo.html
Ducted Propeller with Washing Machine Motor:
ua-cam.com/video/KTZ9PB3l3jI/v-deo.html
Video about the Power Grid:
ua-cam.com/video/OBYzvkY2-eA/v-deo.html
Video about the Isolation Transformer:
ua-cam.com/video/_pEmpvcNmXg/v-deo.html
Video about the Lab Power Supply:
ua-cam.com/video/J3N6RX_wAJg/v-deo.html
can a washing machine motor be modified to be used for a sliding gate opener? Or other question: from where could I salvage a used motor for my DIY gate opener that is strong enough?
please build a lathe or mill with those motors
Sie sind eine Top Bereicherung für Technikinteressierte und die auch Dinge gern reparieren oder modifizieren. Danke für Ihren Job hier auf YT.
This has to be the best and simplest explanation of an electric motor that I have ever seen. You have a new subscriber.
The best video ever.
I can tell you spent a lot of time studying these and preparing this video. Good job, it's very informative and i'll be sure to use this as reference if I ever get to work on such motors!
TheSliderW
Bhanwar Nath x
it IS the best video ever. i've wanted to know exactly this stuff for decades
The quality and amount of thought that this man puts into his work is Amazing, great videos, thank you for making them.
Yes
very well put indeed
I am an EE, and I must congratulate you on your clarity of explanation.
Anybody, who has no prior knowledge of these motors who pays attention, should walk away from this video, at least roughly, understanding how the work.
A clear and concise explanation is a rare thing these days! Well done !
Paddy
Now that is what I call a good teacher. Just watching the video make me feel like an expert. Old and wise enough not to act on that feeling, but thanks a lot.
Brilliant work. This should be the method of teaching in every college. You added a follower.
this is probably the most useful electric motor video ever published on youtube. I was sick of other people's stupid 2D diagrams with blue and red colors drawn is MS Paint.
The iron powder trapped in the 3D magnetic field is the best visualisation ever my eyes deserved.
Ein grossartiger Beitrag. Das Thema ist super aufbereitet. Gut verständlich, detailliert und technisch toll umgesetzt. Vielen Dank für so viel Engagement.
You are talented in your explanation on AC DC brushed motors.
I found your videos after looking up how motors work for building an instrument, and despite coming out still not really understanding because I'm quite dim, I still watched the rest of them. You're clearly a great teacher, even if this student isn't the best learner. Good stuff, P.A.I.
Thank You for Posting these. Especially all the Work you do explaining everything. I really learned a lot of new things. I Really Appreciate it. I hope you and your Family are all doing Great. Thanks again from Texas.👍❤️
Truly excellent video! I came looking for basic information to diagnose my washing machine motor and I went away with a well rounded education on the subject... Clarity, thoroughness and excellent presentation skills/style. Thank you for this very helpful and excellent work.
Maaan, I wish you can make a 10 video playlist just on electric motors with an in depth examples.
Thank you so much for explaining this to us!! 💪🏼🙏🏻❤️👍🏻🤓
It is great that you include the German words for the technical terms. Thanks for taking the time to make this great educational video.
This video was so useful to me. Particularly helpful was finding out the parallel configuration is known as a 'shunt' type motor. I am trying to use one of these as a generator and this is apparently how it must be wound to work in this way. Knowing about the potential risk to the coils melting was also a great heads up. Great production quality and quality of explanations/diagrams too. Thank you for this video and your channel.
I am glad you are back to one of your core fields of interest and expertise. Excellent work TPAI.
Great demonstrations and breakdown/explanation of the inner working of the motors
Thank you for sharing with youtubers. Excellent presentation, full of details, knowledge, and real practical experiments. Keep up the good work. Your instructions and commentary are excellent, loud, and crystal clear. Thank you.
Very elaborate and a well executed post on the subject. Hats off for taking so much time & effort to explain the fundas and the different variables involved and how they interact with one another. Thank you very much for covering the subject in such close detail.
My dad used to work for Siemens. It's so cool how many kinds of products they have and sell from washing machines to electrical panels. After he left Siemens, the company didn't want any panels back so we have about over $1000 worth of Siemens equipment left.
21:44 no. the leftover magnetic field is so small that the torque of the motor wont be enough to overcome the friction of the brushes. the reason it runs when only powered trough the brushes is the way the rotor is wound. it generates its own magnetic field parallel to the magnetic flux lines the stator should have then closes it trough that same stator, so the stator is magnetized as if you powered its coils. in reality the stator coils are optional to the principle of operation of those motors and their purpose is to increase the power rating of the motor without making the rotor bulky. (its cheaper to have small rotor and stator coils than a bulky rotor). you can see this yourself by first exciting the stator coil in one direction, turning it off, seeing what direction the rotor would spin in then excite the stator in the other direction, turn it off and you would see the rotor doesnt care.
this also is the reason you should be very carefull with the polarity of the rotor and the stator current if you want to get the most of the motor
magnetize a nail to its maximum and see how small leftover magnetic field it can have when you leave it on its own. now imagine this field 10 times lower and this is how much you can perm magnetize the stator iron core, because the stator is made of special steel optimized for low magnetic hysteresis
Absolutely brilliant video. So much effort has gone into sharing your knowledge. I have not seen it explained as clearly as this before.
An excellent technical video. I also applaud your precise command of the English accent and language, in fact I prefer it to many of my fellow British accents where the standard of English has deteriorated so badly especially over recent years. Very well done in every aspect of this fascinating video...Many Thanks...
Interesting video. I've been working on a Hotpoint washing machine today. It's motor was a 3 phase type. 5 pins, 2 for the tacho and 3 for the motor windings.
Do you know where 3mp Klixon thermal switch/fuse can be purchased in UK? I'm working on an old hotpoint wm63n
This is the best description of how universal motors work, that I have ever seen.
I learned more from this video than I initially hoped for.
Very good video and very well explained. :)
Subscribed...for sure!
Love how thoroughly you explain everything! Keep up the great videos!
Fascinating stuff and very well put together! Yesterday my boss walked in on me watching this video, and we then started talking about electric cars. Thanks!
Very detailed explanation. A lot of work, thoughts and care behind the video. One of the best instructional videos on UA-cam. 2 thumbs up! Thank you!
brilliant hands on simple to understand education. brings back what i learnt at uni many years ago. thks
Very clear explanation of basic dc motor working principle. Thank you!
It will be nice to see you get a solution operational with AVR. You could then use PWM control in conjunction with a PID algorithm to vary speed. Controlling AC with PWM can be a bit more involved than DC, as it generally needs to be implemented with some sort of phase synchronisation.
As soon as the apocalypse hits, i will move next door to this guy. We will be neighbors. A good neighbor to have. LOL
Brilliant video. One of these would make an excellent spindle for a small mill and the independent windings would be ideal for CNC control.
Whaoo, that was awesome. You are the best teacher, thank you very much. I have never got it so simple and clear like this before.
Thanks you for posting this video. Now i knows how washing machine motor works. Good explanation.
Fantastic video. The demonstration of sep-ex control was very informative.
Man, your videos are top notch...so glad I found your channel.
Das ist echt ein hammer video! Ich bin E techniker aber so geil und anschaulich hats noch keiner erklährt! Hat mir wirklich noch ein paar Fragen beantwortet!
I agree with all those who wrote that this is the best video on this item !!!
Thank you very much for your time and effort !!!
God blesses you !!!
I like all of your videos but I like the ones about motors the most because it's not covered that well elsewhere and it's a very fascinating and much deeper topic than I realized.
Just came across this channel I’m more then thankful for your knowledge, Oh and experience. This is taboo to me but so cool and interesting with this passion in re engendered applications using motors. This is for using any and every tool in a persons tool-bag purse
You explained it better than my electrical machinery professor!
Excellent video! I loved the experiments you applied here to show how the motor works. Keep up the great work. Thank you.
This is excellent... because I've finally got a WM motor... and I've got all of your excellent research here to help me get it working.
THe remanent magnetic field explaination was spot on. Crystal clear. thank you very much sir .
This Motor was made for Machines up to 1200 rpm spinning, machines up to 1400 had a field-switching line, thats the pin „nc“ on your motor. Just for info. Or maybe an idea for another video, how to switch low and high rotations.
Great job man 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
At 9:12 I fully expected the motor to explode into many pieces. I was testing a shunt wound 15 hp motor once when one of the field supply wires became disconnected. Within a second or two, the motor accelerated to the point of destruction, sending heavy copper commutator parts up to the steel roof of the building. Luckily no one was injured. A dc motor using field weakening to run above it's base speed should always incorporate a field loss relay in the control circuit to shut down the drive in the event of field loss.
The most educating 25 minutes of my life. Or at least today.
Grateful teacher his explanation is very helpful for understanding, my best wishes
Excellent and very educational video! Thanks you very much!
Excellent and detailed information dealing with the Universal Motor.
Respect,mate.
I've learnt hips in fraction of time.
All clear and understandable on my high school level of physics.
Fantastic English for non-native.
Many thanks.
This is absolute excellence. Best instructional tutorial by far.
Thank you! I love the idea of building an electric vehicle using these salvaged motors and other salvaged parts. I live in Germany as well and see a lot of useful parts lying around on the street every day. I'm gathering enough technical knowledge to put together the vehicle. Thank you again!
why don't you use a 12 v car starter for that? the washer machine motor is for 240/120 v ,,,no work on 12 v battery ,what you see on yuotube is stuff made by people have no clue or experience of nothing ,don't trust them
@@lesstime1678 What you say about the car starter is correct and that's actually not a bad idea but it doesn't necessarily mean that the person running this channel has no idea about what he's talking about. In fact, he's pretty good at what he does. I'm saying this based on watching his channel for a while now. But thank you for the suggestion.
15:00(ish): When you powered the motor via separate DC sources and stepped up the voltage, listen to the pitch of the motor. At initial voltage it's about an A, (not important what pitch) but on raising the voltage 1V the pitch jumps an octave (frequency doubles), then after the another 1V increase, jumps by 1.5x . These correspond to the fundamental, first, and second harmonics in the harmonic series. I assume the rpm (min^ -1) also doubled, then increased by 1.5x as well? Would you get the third harmonic (2 octaves above the fundamental, or 4x the initial rpm) if you'd increased by another 1V?? Fascinating.
This is brilliant! I've always been frustrated by universal motors need for constant speed monitoring. I would really love to see a budget / more permanent option for two DC power supplies to get decent torque out of these abundant motors.
Learning how to reuse these motors from an electrical point, can be as interesting as what you create with them.
Perfect explanation + experimental attitude! I've spent a lot of time studying my old washing m. but this video does enlighten my mind...
Ich schreibe eigentlich nie Kommentare. Aber die Erklärungen sind wirklich herausragend gut. Danke dafür.
Great video and real in-depth explanations of how motors operate.
Thanks in a million. Great content. Awesome. Very well explained. I couldn't find this explanation--simply put anywhere else. Great teachers are hard to find. Grade: A++💥
Since you will control the windings (field and armature) separately, I think that by adding very thin wire to the field (with thinner wire but more winding to match the former amount of copper that was used there) will increase torque and reduce speed.
wow, that's just totally awesome! thank you for explaining all this to us in a very easy understoudable manner, keep it up! Big thanks, again!
Fantastic! Pure Electrical Engineering..... THE BEST OF IT ALL!
Very useful video. Like the others about this theme. I'm interested in this type os motors, and how to use it to other purposes than the original of it's fabrication. Continue with your great job!
Yes you must have been a Electrical Engineer Professor
Motors 101
EXCELLENT JOB
Very professional Schematic and teaching , i think i now understand much more about those types of Motors
THANK YOU
Tim
I love your new setup. Your hard work really shows. Thanks again for the german language lessons.
Your dedication is just excellent, God bless you.
Excellent video. Very informative. Looking forward for more videos of these series.
Yes finally some way to use these things!
Any progress on that simpler circuit?
It would make life much easier for DIY tools.
Brilliantly explained, thanks brother!
Your videos are incredibly good! Educational and very good explanations.. Keep up the good work!
Great explanation of electric motors.
I have LG Direct Drive that has - if i remember correctly - ring with permanent magnets as rotor attached directly to the shaft and something like 30 or more radial coils as a stator. I guess it creates three or more phases to power some coils and it can use remaining coil to monitor actual position and switch phases when needed. It's very simple mechanical design (no moving parts except the drum) with somewhat more complicated electronics for monitoring position and creating likely three phase AC with variable frequency. I believe it can precisely control position and speed of the drum and estimate weight of the laundry just by swinging drum a bit and measuring current generated as it returns to original position.
Excellent professional explanations.top guy
@ 5:50 - DO NOT remove the resister from the protective earth circuit. Not having one will
create a direct path to ground and allow very high current to be drawn in a short to earth. This will delay overcurrent protection (fuse/thermistor/breaker) from triggering and allow massive amounts of current to flow through the short. The resistor is there to give a load to any short to ground and trip the overcurrent device before high current develops in the short.
so, if yu energise the enclosure of the device with 100 Volts, then the ground current to earth will be 0.1 milliamps through your 1 megaohm resistor ? I hope that your residual earth current protection device can detect this....
I didn't explain it very well in my initial post, so I will go into more detail here:
First, that resistor is for ground loop protection. If you don't know what that is, I suggest you look it up. Second, Europe uses 240VAC, not 100V. To get the full potential of the motor you would want to use full voltage. Also, since it is from a washing machine, it is designed to run off of a GFCI circuit. Those ARE sensitive enough to notice leakage of current to ground in the 0.1A range.
For dangerous voltages (36V AC or DC, the current safety standard and yes it did change a few years back), you should not make changes to the safety systems in the circuit. If you don't know why something is in there, don't just take it out. You can kill or injure yourself or other people really easily with even what would be considered "low voltage".
Ouch. Bad information is worse than no information. 240VAC so 340VDC peak, through a 1M resistor, thats 0.00034A, 0.34 *mA* not 0.1A. a GFCI breaker typically takes 0.05A (50mA) to trip, about 150 times more current than this resistor will allow at peak mains voltage. So in the event of a failure, where the motor chassis gets shorted to the active/hot input, this resistor will mean the GFCI protection is not triggered, and will allow the motor chassis to go live.
To be clear, this means the motor is effectively not earthed. This mostly defeats the traditional purpose of the protective earth connection, but this resistor is required, as the normal operation of the motor will cause it to induce currents in its chassis, which may be high enough to cause false triggering of the GFCI protection. The connection to protective earth via the resistor is most likely merely for discharge and RF loading. The motor chassis is weakly held at ground potential, so any charge is slowly dissipated, preventing ESD and helping to minimise EMI.
Removing the resistor and giving the motor chassis a direct connection to earth will not cause a safety hazard, but may cause your GFCI protection to trip unnecessarily.
The metal chassis of the washing machine itself should also have its own connection to protective earth, which will not have such a resistor in series, so the washing machine as a whole should still allow GFCI protection to serve its purpose.
Yes, I fudged my math on this. I was tired when I wrote it and made a mistake. It was not a mistake that would have injured anyone or caused damage to equipment. I said to leave the part in place unless you know what it does. As for my qualifications to give advice, I was an industrial electrician and a radio technician before I retired. I have been trained to work safely on up to 600V AC circuits and to construct and/or modify them as needed. It has been several years since I retired and my health is not always 100% anymore, hence why I retired.
First, you seem to know some about AC, but not as much as you think you do. The term is peak voltage, not DC voltage. The equivalent DC voltage is the RMS voltage of the AC sine wave. Next, this is the ground for the motor and its drive. The case of the washer was grounded normally through the ground of the plug, so if the chassis was energized, there would be a low impedance path to ground that would trip the GFCI anyway.
Also, a purely restive load is not what is used to couple RF or AC wave forms to ground. You use a low pass filter, like a capacitor to snub those (shunt to ground) and tune it to pass no more than 55 Hz (for this EU unit). They might be using the reactive capacitance of the motor brushes with the resistor to make this filter cheaply. Without looking at the design in detail or talking to the design engineers, this is speculation. Regardless, that resistor wouldn't be there unless it served an important function and therefore should remain until you at least know what it does.
If you run the motor off of an isolation transformer, yes, you would want to ground the chassis and you could take out the resistor in this case. If it is part of the filter system, you will make something that is RF noisy since there will be commutation noise from the brushes switching. This can be eliminated by using a shielded case that is grounded (AKA a Faraday cage). However, you should only ground through the building's grounding conductor (referred by laymen as simply 'ground') regardless of the method of supplying power. This will prevent what is known as a grounding loop.
A ground loop occurs when the neutral line to a device is lost and the chassis of the device becomes the path to ground or when a short to ground from the live line happens. If you have other low impedance or resistance connections to ground, like a direct chassis ground on a device instead of using the grounding conductor, you have a parallel circuit and it will charge the chassis of the other device to full potential (voltage), but will act as a current divider and will prevent the OCPD (breaker, fuse, or thermal override) from tripping as quickly as it should (see Kirchhoff's first law or read up on parallel circuits). This leaves potentially lethal voltage and current on the chassis of both devices. Always ground through the building's grounding conductor so that only serial circuits can be made by shorted devices.
OCPDs do not trip fast enough to protect a person from shock or electrocution unless they are a GFCI. It is even possible to have lethal voltage in a ground loop without producing enough draw to trip the OCPD since the path may have enough impedance to draw currents below the rating for the circuit.
How would a very high current delay the breaker from triggering? If anything the breaker outside the washing machine would immediately trip.
Finally a good explanation for these moters. Now I can finally experiment myself on one of those moters.
Absolutely great knowledge on motors. Thank you.
If I'm not mistaking around 23:30 I think you could insert permanant magnets and then spin the commutator and generate, is this correct? Good video. Thank you
Wow, thank you very much for this great explanation of how a universal motor works and what you can do with it. This video is really valuable!
Excelente! Muchas gracias por su aporte. Un abrazo
Great video and wonderfully informative. Also, very nice lab gear in your shop.
Outstanding ! I learnt a lot.
Many thanks.......all the way from London.
Excellent video.. a good example of why I support you on Patreon,
Well done! A generator produces maximum output Amps at around 1500-2000 RPM thus would be able to power the motor driving it!
EXCELLENT VIDEO. PROBABLY THE BEST AND MOST INFORMATIVE I HAVE EVER SEEN
Very good explanations with clear logical practical applications. Almost as good as doing it one self.
Einfach spitzenmässig.
👍 work and explaining the motor concept and its applications
Very interesting, much more informative than diagrams on a blackboard, which is how I was taught the principles of electric motors. Remember Maxwell?
Two thumbs up! I can't wait to see your new approach to controlling the speed. I hope you provide an analog circuit for control as well as the arduino approach. It shouldn't be too difficult, right? Maybe the analog approach video should precede the digital control method. Although I see where this is going and it is others who would benefit... Cheers
Great video. Clear explanation, as usual.
great video, I have one motor waiting for the solution to become useful. Thank you for your investigations, it helps a lot people like me with not much resources but interest into learning and reusing things. Waiting for your conclusions. Thanks again.
Best explanation EVER! Thank you!
Great explanation of motor design, construction and operation. Inspiring!