AMAZING!!! I have never left a comment on anything before. This is well explained, concise with excellent video. As if I was being taught hands on in a class. Thanks man
I JUST FOUND YOUR CHANNEL TODAY!! Wonderful content!! i wish i found it sooner. your struts video is a great help. you explaon things very effectively. Youre teaching others. Youre helping others.. thank you.
I had engine code p0342 and p0335. I changed the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor twice with no luck. After watching the video I troubleshoot everything on this video, since my OB2 Scanner advices to check ignition system. My ignition control module was the problem, did not work. I'm so happy to have my truck back. Thanks
Hello Antonio, did you understood this guy, I only catched like 70 percent, I need help bro. How did you check the crankshaft sensor which side connector I check the one coming from the computer or the one coming from the sensor, also I do not know which pins, I do not want to burn my computer as you know that is very sensitive, I have a 1997 mercury mountaineer 5.0 engine do you know what pins by any chance? Also I did not understood how he test the ignition control module from the connector coming from the computer or from the module itself which plug I need to test I could not see where those test lights were connected to because he mention to turn the key and start the car. Can you explain me in a better way bro. I speak spanish also, please explain me if you have time to help me, thanks in advance.
Thanks a lot man! My niece's car with a V-6 is running on four cylinders. It has three coils so I replaced the one that was not firing. I now suspect the ICM but had no idea how to check it. So I'll be going through your process first thing in the morning.
@@ianvav As I recall, the water pump had a leak and was slinging coolant on to the ICM and it had gotten past the seal on the wiring connector. We dried it out and replaced the water pump. 😀
Such a great video man. But on the very end when you said you tested the plate on the control module, if youre not picking up anything that means its a bad module?
If you want to test the boot you can do it both ways. To just test a spark plug I took the spark plug out of the engine put it back into the boot put a jumper cable on to the battery and then on the spark plug and then apply Power by cranking the ignition to see a spark was coming out of the plug.
Hey the 4th thing u checked was ignition supply. What does it mean if i’m not getting power to the ignition supply? A little back story cat came in for a fuel pump it wasn’t priming up I drop that in still no start. Performed a fuel pressure test car passed that. So I start checking for spark(also I changed the spark plugs and wires two weeks ago) still was misfiring told the customer he may need coils) fast forward I checked the coil packs and the ignition module. Module was bad and also one of the coils I change those out still no spark I checked the powers supply a sun not getting any power there but that’s where I’m stuck where does that run to?
Can a bad Ignition Control Module cause a misfire in a single cylinder. Im getting a P0306 code for misfire in cylinder 6. Ive changed the plugs, cables and coil packs. If anything the new Coil made the white smoke and gas smell more pronounced.
A bad ignition control module would affect all the cylinders. You might have an issue with the rings on the cylinder head in that particular cylinder. If you have white smoke coming out that's an indication that there's oil or some substance in that cylinder. You might want to try one of those poor end products that coats the lining of the cylinder or seals it. I've had success with those in the past
If the resistance is good I don't see how the coil itself could be bad. You might want to also check the ignition control module (ICM) if you think it's an ignition problem.
@@oxmanagain its is a ignition problem i get no spar. I was out riding and the motorcycle just stopped, then when I tried to start it suddenly there is no spark, I don't know what it is, I have measured with a multimeter, ignition coil, spark plug, the lights are on, everything seems to be ok. Have searched and searched online and tested a lot so I thought maybe the starter coil broke anyway, otherwise I don't know? the ignition lock or earth fault maybe? What can cause the spark to suddenly disappear? from working perfectly fine to then dead
What if you have a no start, no crank, no click situation? Can't test sparkplug can I? Push started car and starts right up. Runs good. Bought new battery after this problem started because batt was only reading 12.3 volts. Multimeter says starter is getting 12.55 now when turning key. After banging on starter motor a few times, still no start but I get one click now. Thinking problem is the starter. It will be four yrs old in Nov but it's a cheap one($65.00). Thoughts?
How did the testing procedures you did show what part failed that lead you to know it was crank sensor cause i also noticed you said you installed a new ignition control module so was it both the crank sensor and the ignition control module bad, I did the test on the voltimeter with the crank sensor wires and it did not change a bit on engine crank so Im trying to figure out if its the ignition module or crank sensor or both, I also did not get the test light reading on removing coil pac and cranking engine it also did nothing,ive already replaced plugs wires and both coil packs and crank sensor only thing left i can figure to do is change the ignition module any thoughts would be appreciated. Tks
I tested everything and that was the only thing that failed. That is how I knew it was the crank sensor. I changed the ICM, the spark plugs wires and plugs, the coils and the camshaft sensor. The only thing that was left was the crank sensor.
@@oxmanagain Awesome thanks for replying, I watched were you said test the crank sensor plug i assume you just unplug it from the crank sensor to test it and then you said have someone crank engine while you prode both terminals with ACV turned on and you should see 200 millivolts typically and i assume when you did that test yours did not originally read anything and thats how you knew it was the crank sensor?
Hello Mary please explain me how to test the crankshaft sensor, which side he tested, the wires coming from the computer or the wires coming from the sensor, I am sorry I do not get it, what I understand is if the crank sensor is disconnected how can I test it when he say crank the engine, can you please explain in a better way I want to understand, thank you.
My tester lights up for all 8 plugs, but only 5 coils change the engine sound when disconnected, one at a time. All coils, plugs and wires are new, but idle is a little rough. Could 3 coils still be bad?
@@bluckq hi, Yes I did. Bad fuel injectors would give the same symptoms. I found 3 bad fuel injectors. There are youtube videos on how how to test fuel injectors using a car battery. One I replaced those it worked fine. The 3 fuel injectors were on those same 3 coil packs.
Yeah my issue was really tricky I have a 1999 mercury villager and it has weak ignition pulse and also it doesn’t show RPMs on the dash but it will show RPMs on data stream on the code reader
I replaced my cam and crank sensor, it just turns over n over no trying. fuel rails got pressure, you can hear the fuel pump and it will spray to the hood lol,. the wire going to the ignition module when facing the wiring jack, the one to the far left gets juice when the key is turned on,, any idea ?
hi sorry to bother you, i followed your procedures and everything checked out fine. However, the car still wont start. I already changed the fuel pump and filter, also the battery is new. Thanks
@@patrickmacalalad9921 I fully understand and I have been there. Sometimes moving on is the best thing you can do. The good thing is you've learned what to do for the next time you're in a situation. I appreciate your time and you enjoy the rest of your day.
Have you tested both of them? I have had to replace my cap multiple times, but I've only replaced my distributor once. The distributor is a pretty big job because you have to line it up correctly once you take it out.
Hello Joe, can you send the name of the tester and where to buy my friend, I want to do it the right way, please help me hopefully you have the part number, thanks in advance.
That last test was a useless test. You were ohm testing a metal shield if you got through the corrosion you would have had zero ohms on both modules. All other test we're good but I think you misread your ohms reading on the coil.
I have a 40 horsepower Yamaha outboard d ignition switch may have been left on and there is no power to the motor and the power trim does not work any suggestions
@oxmanagain yes I the owners manual for the car I don't the packaging or stuff that came with the scanner it was a cheap one with the app you use but there's no codes the car just got lack of power stumbling on acceleration vibration at res light its getting about 29mpg when it should probably be getting 34
@@paulleblanc3301 it is probably a fuel issue. Did you try pouring in a fuel treatment to see if that makes a difference? If it does you now have an idea of the direction to go in
I just had my 89 s10 pickup inspected in the beginning of November. before I took the truck to get it repaired I replaced the gas tank fuel hanger and pump assembly. All brand new. Two weeks ago the truck died. When I turn the key on I can hear the pump run but it refuses to start. When I dump gas into the throttle body the truck starts right up and then stalls. When I run a test by placing a paper clip in the ALDL connecter and watch the flashes 12 and it continues to do this over and over. There's no other codes in between the code 12. This makes me think that it's missing the reference pulse and the ecm is not turning on the fuel pump and making the pulse width modulation zero. Couple years ago when I purchased the truck it did the same thing. It refused to start. When I went to replace the fuel pump i noticed entire hanger assembly and pump were new. What would cause a new pump to go bad? There's a problem but i don't know what is wrong.
89 K1500 Scottsdale... 2 fuel pumps replaced in less than 6 mos., turned out the old metal tank was rusted enough it was depositing little snowflakes of red death and once they mixed into the fuel that was enough to clog the FP. IF you still have the og metal tank, probably a good idea to change bc after 30 years, it's definitely rusty! Just make sure you replace it with the same size. The guy I had do it did not and at approx. 12mpg I sure do miss my old 25 gal capacity! Another culprit of rust/fuel and clogged FPs is the filler neck, if you still have the og one, after 30 years...! Also, may want to (VERY GENTLY) inspect your injectors to make sure they aren't clogged or obstructed resulting in to little fuel. If these few things aren't it double check your ground wires (battery to frame-block to frame-intake mani to engine compartment... to name a few), again, after 30 years LOL hope this helps! Good luck w/your sh!tty chevy, I know how much I love mine!!!
1 if your check engine light comes on, 2 if your car has any hesitation or running rough and 3 if you ever hear any noise from the engine you might have a leak somewhere.
i think my starter is going bad. great! im tired of working and paying on this car! my mechanic took a screwdriver and started it once. if i have to i will.
If you want to be able to check your entire ignition system here is a link to a multimeter reader. amzn.to/2CjGsk2
1988 4.3 s10 no spark
AMAZING!!! I have never left a comment on anything before. This is well explained, concise with excellent video. As if I was being taught hands on in a class. Thanks man
I appreciate your comment and thanks for watching.
I JUST FOUND YOUR CHANNEL TODAY!! Wonderful content!! i wish i found it sooner. your struts video is a great help. you explaon things very effectively. Youre teaching others. Youre helping others.. thank you.
I really appreciate you taking the time to write such a nice comment. I thank you and you're welcome again.
you do a nice job giving clear easy to understand directions. Great video!
I had engine code p0342 and p0335. I changed the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor twice with no luck. After watching the video I troubleshoot everything on this video, since my OB2 Scanner advices to check ignition system. My ignition control module was the problem, did not work. I'm so happy to have my truck back. Thanks
That is great to hear. I'm glad I could help you out. Thanks for watching and I appreciate your comment.
Hello Antonio, did you understood this guy, I only catched like 70 percent, I need help bro. How did you check the crankshaft sensor which side connector I check the one coming from the computer or the one coming from the sensor, also I do not know which pins, I do not want to burn my computer as you know that is very sensitive, I have a 1997 mercury mountaineer 5.0 engine do you know what pins by any chance? Also I did not understood how he test the ignition control module from the connector coming from the computer or from the module itself which plug I need to test I could not see where those test lights were connected to because he mention to turn the key and start the car. Can you explain me in a better way bro. I speak spanish also, please explain me if you have time to help me, thanks in advance.
Easiest video demonstrating how to do all the checks
Thanks a lot man! My niece's car with a V-6 is running on four cylinders. It has three coils so I replaced the one that was not firing. I now suspect the ICM but had no idea how to check it. So I'll be going through your process first thing in the morning.
Let me know how it works out for you. And thanks for watching.
@@oxmanagain The two prongs for the middle coil do not light the test light. So I am assuming the ICM is bad. Does that sound correct ?
@@stevehughes1250 Was it the ICM?
@@ianvav As I recall, the water pump had a leak and was slinging coolant on to the ICM and it had gotten past the seal on the wiring connector. We dried it out and replaced the water pump. 😀
Thanks so much - Easy to follow and understand, unlike some of the other videos.
Such a great video man. But on the very end when you said you tested the plate on the control module, if youre not picking up anything that means its a bad module?
Thanks for this video! I have a 60 year old tractor I’m having electrical problems with in.
Just to be clear, for the spark plug test, should I take spark plug boot out and put another spark plug in it or take out the spark plug?
If you want to test the boot you can do it both ways. To just test a spark plug I took the spark plug out of the engine put it back into the boot put a jumper cable on to the battery and then on the spark plug and then apply Power by cranking the ignition to see a spark was coming out of the plug.
Hey the 4th thing u checked was ignition supply. What does it mean if i’m not getting power to the ignition supply? A little back story cat came in for a fuel pump it wasn’t priming up I drop that in still no start. Performed a fuel pressure test car passed that. So I start checking for spark(also I changed the spark plugs and wires two weeks ago) still was misfiring told the customer he may need coils) fast forward I checked the coil packs and the ignition module. Module was bad and also one of the coils I change those out still no spark I checked the powers supply a sun not getting any power there but that’s where I’m stuck where does that run to?
Also the car has no codes
It sounds like it could be an issue with the ignition control module. Mine literally was it wasn't screwed down tight.
I’m a newbie. If there’s spark why are other tests necessary?
If there are sparks in the spark plugs it means all other components are working and there is no need to test them?
That is correct.
@@oxmanagain not true i have spark and my icm is faulty makes it run like dog poopie when its warm
Can a bad Ignition Control Module cause a misfire in a single cylinder. Im getting a P0306 code for misfire in cylinder 6. Ive changed the plugs, cables and coil packs. If anything the new Coil made the white smoke and gas smell more pronounced.
A bad ignition control module would affect all the cylinders. You might have an issue with the rings on the cylinder head in that particular cylinder. If you have white smoke coming out that's an indication that there's oil or some substance in that cylinder. You might want to try one of those poor end products that coats the lining of the cylinder or seals it. I've had success with those in the past
@@oxmanagain thanks for the speedy reply. can you recommend a brand or product?
Can you check the the ignition suppley with a multimeter if you dont have that 12v test tool u have?
Yes you can. If you get a book it will walk you through the steps because each car might be slightly different
@@oxmanagain ok tx i thinx i buy a tool like u have, that 12v lamp look easier.
@@oxmanagain I have one more question, could an ignition coil be broken if the resistance is still ok?
If the resistance is good I don't see how the coil itself could be bad. You might want to also check the ignition control module (ICM) if you think it's an ignition problem.
@@oxmanagain its is a ignition problem i get no spar. I was out riding and the motorcycle just stopped, then when I tried to start it suddenly there is no spark, I don't know what it is, I have measured with a multimeter, ignition coil, spark plug, the lights are on, everything seems to be ok. Have searched and searched online and tested a lot so I thought maybe the starter coil broke anyway, otherwise I don't know? the ignition lock or earth fault maybe? What can cause the spark to suddenly disappear? from working perfectly fine to then dead
What if you have a no start, no crank, no click situation? Can't test sparkplug can I? Push started car and starts right up. Runs good. Bought new battery after this problem started because batt was only reading 12.3 volts. Multimeter says starter is getting 12.55 now when turning key. After banging on starter motor a few times, still no start but I get one click now. Thinking problem is the starter. It will be four yrs old in Nov but it's a cheap one($65.00). Thoughts?
Starter
How did the testing procedures you did show what part failed that lead you to know it was crank sensor cause i also noticed you said you installed a new ignition control module so was it both the crank sensor and the ignition control module bad, I did the test on the voltimeter with the crank sensor wires and it did not change a bit on engine crank so Im trying to figure out if its the ignition module or crank sensor or both, I also did not get the test light reading on removing coil pac and cranking engine it also did nothing,ive already replaced plugs wires and both coil packs and crank sensor only thing left i can figure to do is change the ignition module any thoughts would be appreciated. Tks
I tested everything and that was the only thing that failed. That is how I knew it was the crank sensor. I changed the ICM, the spark plugs wires and plugs, the coils and the camshaft sensor. The only thing that was left was the crank sensor.
@@oxmanagain Awesome thanks for replying, I watched were you said test the crank sensor plug i assume you just unplug it from the crank sensor to test it and then you said have someone crank engine while you prode both terminals with ACV turned on and you should see 200 millivolts typically and i assume when you did that test yours did not originally read anything and thats how you knew it was the crank sensor?
That is right.
Hello Mary please explain me how to test the crankshaft sensor, which side he tested, the wires coming from the computer or the wires coming from the sensor, I am sorry I do not get it, what I understand is if the crank sensor is disconnected how can I test it when he say crank the engine, can you please explain in a better way I want to understand, thank you.
My tester lights up for all 8 plugs, but only 5 coils change the engine sound when disconnected, one at a time. All coils, plugs and wires are new, but idle is a little rough. Could 3 coils still be bad?
Did you figure it out
@@bluckq hi, Yes I did. Bad fuel injectors would give the same symptoms. I found 3 bad fuel injectors. There are youtube videos on how how to test fuel injectors using a car battery. One I replaced those it worked fine. The 3 fuel injectors were on those same 3 coil packs.
Great video.. wish there were time stamps..
You should be a teacher bro although I don’t understand what’s the point of even owning a test light when you have a multi meter
I appreciate the compliment. I just like having stuff, the more stuff the better. But I do agree.
It could be dark.
Yeah my issue was really tricky I have a 1999 mercury villager and it has weak ignition pulse and also it doesn’t show RPMs on the dash but it will show RPMs on data stream on the code reader
Excellent advice
I replaced my cam and crank sensor, it just turns over n over no trying. fuel rails got pressure, you can hear the fuel pump and it will spray to the hood lol,. the wire going to the ignition module when facing the wiring jack, the one to the far left gets juice when the key is turned on,, any idea ?
Have you looked at your icm?
@@oxmanagain thnks, that fixed it new module
I'm glad I could be of service. I'm glad it helped you out.
was that your metal fuel line?
with the horse shoe symbol do I put it on 200 to test the icm?
Ohm or resistance symbol or horse shoe. K is for 1000's
hi sorry to bother you, i followed your procedures and everything checked out fine. However, the car still wont start. I already changed the fuel pump and filter, also the battery is new. Thanks
I have been thinking about your car. Did you get it to start?
@@oxmanagain going to junk the car soon. i did everything... all good things come to an end. Thanks
@@patrickmacalalad9921 I fully understand and I have been there. Sometimes moving on is the best thing you can do. The good thing is you've learned what to do for the next time you're in a situation. I appreciate your time and you enjoy the rest of your day.
I have a distributor so idk if it's my coil or the icm in the distributor
Have you tested both of them? I have had to replace my cap multiple times, but I've only replaced my distributor once. The distributor is a pretty big job because you have to line it up correctly once you take it out.
@@oxmanagain I can't even find any clear instructions on how to test the ICM or pickup coil in the distributor
What are the symptoms your vehicle is having?
@@oxmanagain crank no start. 91 S10 4.3l
Do you have any check engine lights on?
Spark plugs may fire in the atmosphere just fine, but in the high compression atmosphere inside a cylinder it may not.
Good point, thanks.
You're a hundred percent right there is a spark tester to test it in circuit and that's the best most accurate way
Hello Joe, can you send the name of the tester and where to buy my friend, I want to do it the right way, please help me hopefully you have the part number, thanks in advance.
@@yaniraleiva6314
You can get them at harbor freight for cheap.
That last test was a useless test. You were ohm testing a metal shield if you got through the corrosion you would have had zero ohms on both modules. All other test we're good but I think you misread your ohms reading on the coil.
I have a 40 horsepower Yamaha outboard d ignition switch may have been left on and there is no power to the motor and the power trim does not work any suggestions
I would check the battery.
@@oxmanagain lol right wht a dumbaz
Sometime bad condenser and resistor can cause no start too. Some car might have it and some don't.
What if there is no spark on any of the spark plug wires?
I would check your icm ignition control module or crank/cam sensors.
@oxmanagain What book?
Did your OBD scanner come with a book or manual? And do you have the book on your car?
@oxmanagain yes I the owners manual for the car I don't the packaging or stuff that came with the scanner it was a cheap one with the app you use but there's no codes the car just got lack of power stumbling on acceleration vibration at res light its getting about 29mpg when it should probably be getting 34
@@paulleblanc3301 it is probably a fuel issue. Did you try pouring in a fuel treatment to see if that makes a difference? If it does you now have an idea of the direction to go in
@oxmanagain no I haven't yet I ill trying doing that today and I'll get back to you once again thank you for messaging back so quick
I just had my 89 s10 pickup inspected in the beginning of November. before I took the truck to get it repaired I replaced the gas tank fuel hanger and pump assembly. All brand new. Two weeks ago the truck died. When I turn the key on I can hear the pump run but it refuses to start. When I dump gas into the throttle body the truck starts right up and then stalls. When I run a test by placing a paper clip in the ALDL connecter and watch the flashes 12 and it continues to do this over and over. There's no other codes in between the code 12. This makes me think that it's missing the reference pulse and the ecm is not turning on the fuel pump and making the pulse width modulation zero. Couple years ago when I purchased the truck it did the same thing. It refused to start. When I went to replace the fuel pump i noticed entire hanger assembly and pump were new. What would cause a new pump to go bad? There's a problem but i don't know what is wrong.
I will have to do some research for you.
89 K1500 Scottsdale... 2 fuel pumps replaced in less than 6 mos., turned out the old metal tank was rusted enough it was depositing little snowflakes of red death and once they mixed into the fuel that was enough to clog the FP. IF you still have the og metal tank, probably a good idea to change bc after 30 years, it's definitely rusty! Just make sure you replace it with the same size. The guy I had do it did not and at approx. 12mpg I sure do miss my old 25 gal capacity! Another culprit of rust/fuel and clogged FPs is the filler neck, if you still have the og one, after 30 years...! Also, may want to (VERY GENTLY) inspect your injectors to make sure they aren't clogged or obstructed resulting in to little fuel. If these few things aren't it double check your ground wires (battery to frame-block to frame-intake mani to engine compartment... to name a few), again, after 30 years LOL hope this helps! Good luck w/your sh!tty chevy, I know how much I love mine!!!
Bad fuel filter maybe?
Which manual is that at the end of video?
Haynes manual Pontiac Grand AM I put a link in the description below the video.
oxmanagain thanks dude!
You're welcome, no problem.
fucking awesome vid bro thanks! got the catalina fired up!!!
You're welcome and thanks for watching. What exactly was wrong with your car?
WHAT ISSUE WOULD A PERSON GET THAT WOULD MAKE THEM HAVE TO DO THESE TEST?
1 if your check engine light comes on, 2 if your car has any hesitation or running rough and 3 if you ever hear any noise from the engine you might have a leak somewhere.
No starts
Very informative, well done!
UA-camr Thanks for watching/commenting.
yessssss that HF meter...
My 1989 regency olds when it warms up it goes to missing then dies and have to wait before it will drank
Sounds like something to do with the fuel system or maybe the ignition system
What if the car wont start?
Good stuff bud
I appreciate you watching. Thanks
Your awesome, thank u!
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
i think my starter is going bad. great! im tired of working and paying on this car! my mechanic took a screwdriver and started it once. if i have to i will.
Awesome!
could never watch video, ads never gave option to skip.
laughing in adbloker
Thanks my nigga.lol
Thanks haha.
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