I live in Tucson and this has to be the best valve seal video ever, did mine yesterday as per your video and it came out perfect. fantastic video keep them coming.
Excellent video! Thanks for posting this. This is the only video I have found on this specific procedure (that's not in Dutch) and now I can attempt to do this job without fear of mis-timing the engine.
Great video, practical and informative. We have a non turbo Cooper that is puffing white smoke when hot and been idling for a while in traffic. Otherwise runs fine and not using coolant. Will give you a shout to do this to our car as I've got the kit but not the time!
Finally a good guide on how to do this job without removing the head. I would like to add: Intake cam gear bolt is 20Nm + 180° (tight to 20Nm and add half turn clockwise), exhaust cam gear is 20Nm + 90° (tight to 20Nm and add quarter turn clockwise), hold the camshafts in place by counterforce using wrench 27 on the other end. Seating surfaces between the gears and cams need to be degreased and tightened properly to prevent slipping of the gears. That could allow timing to go out of spec or even valves to hit the pistons in worst case scenario Better tight it properly....:) Oh, and chain tensioner should be tightened to 80Nm. You could also use a rope through the spark plug hole compressed by piston to hold the valves closed, maybe safer... How is Your oil consumption after doing this job?
Great video which really helped me a lot. However, I did not have to remove the intake camshaft gear, vacuum pump or oil (?) pump. Also: I was able to put the camshafts back in place without removing the timing chain tensioner (I pushed it in a little with a wooden stick) and making sure the chain was tight between crankshaft and exhaust gear, as well as intake gear. Apparently that was a big no-no for not removing the tensioner. This is what happened: upon starting car, it went in to high idle (cold engine). After a few seconds it went in to low idle and ran extremely rough with irregular RPM's. I decided to carefully warm the engine at a slightly higher RPM and drive in the neighborhood. Anything above low idle was just fine. After 5 miles, low idle was also back to normal and car drives great. Could it be that the tensioner needed some higher oil pressure to get back to a previous state with more tension on the chain? BTW: before replacing the seals, the car was using 1QT every 400 miles and blowing blue smoke. The old seals were worn and dried out. Not sure if the problem is fixed as so far I only put 5 miles on it, but there are no longer spats of oil on my garage floor.
Thank you for your video. Could you please clarify how many miles or kilometers had the car before replacing these valve stem oil seal? Is it the same engine of the car since brand new or a swap? Thank you in advance for your answer. It will help me to unserstand my Mini's issues .
Hi Scott - excellent video and I'm almost done with my job. I learned a few things that I'll post a bit later that I think will help others on this job. For now, you mentioned in the captions that you should install the top guide first before inserting the temporary tensioning tool, but it looks like you didn't do that. I wanted to confirm that we should put the top guide on first, then put the temporary tensioning tool in with the chain fairly tight without movement, then torque the new cam gear bolts, then remove the temporary tool, then put in the original tensioner. Sound right?
Hello, thank you very much for the video, very well done and the procedure explained, I will move on with the work. I just have one question, can a 50 liter compressor handle the job?
very good tutorial, thank you. At what point did you remove the chain tensioner (or did i miss it) ? before opening the sprockets 100nm torqued bolts or after ? When putting all back, why not put the tensioner back before tightening the sprockets (why use the tool first) ? thank you
Anthony, when I plug compressor and inflate chamber, seems like its leaking somewhere, I hear air noise on intake side. is it same when you were doing that? Generally cylinder holds a good compression 11 bar +-
Good video, soon i will change them too, one question tho, is not possible to take out the camshafts without pulling out the sprockets, in the idea that the chain might be loose enough to do it? Thank for all the information in this video!
I was thinking the same thing. Marking the chain to the sprocket and leaving the sprocket on the shaft. Hopefully there is enough slack on the chain to do so. I recently did the timing chain with new stretch bolts.
ok a daft question, as I'm about to do this very same job.. what pressure would you run into the cylinders to hold the valves in-place whilst doing the job?
I've just done this and 4 - 6 barg did the trick (just a normal domestic air compressor). I found that initially the spring caps didn't break away when compressed, however a little release oil then a tap with a rubber mallet & screw driver and they popped free. HTH
Did this solve the smoking problem? Mine is smoking blue when warmed up don't know if it's bad seals or rings, my compression was good when I checked it so I'm assuming that the rings should be okay. But then again it's possible that thier not and it's still getting good compession
8:24 What is the diameter size of the modified spark plug ? Would like to see if there is an adaptor that I could buy extra to do the compression, I'm useless in fabrication so maybe there is an adaptor I could place onto the hose supplied in the Valve kit?
Thanks for this I'm about to do this job soon! I have 2 questions. 1) when you put the car in 6th gear to lock the crank do you leave the car in 6th gear for the entire job? Or do you put it back in neutral once the crank is locked? 2) if you don't have an air compressor can you use the rope trick to stop the valves from falling in? Obviously you can't turn the crank to minimize the space up cause you've locked it. Thanks again this video will save me lots of money!
Hi You can take it out of gear but leave the pin in to keep the timing, the time it would take to stuff rope in each cylinder you may as well take the head off.
the flywhell thing.. is it u cut of the tail due to cannot access??? because now I brought from china , they given 2 tools but 1 of the tools unable to go in ... the other one look like too small, and don't feel any like blocking,, easy in and out. i also confuse now. if it without this tools can do timing chain?
Hi I have a 2012 mini Cooper countryman s r60 turbo and it smokes a lot on a cold start only and it clears up in about a minimal or so and after that it’s fine doesn’t smoke while idling or driving only cold starts and I notice it after I did a oil change is this what i need to do change my valve seals?
I got the exhaust side done, but one cylinder on the intake side is blasting air from the throttle body and the compressor cant keep up. What am I doing wrong here? The other 3 are fine. It was fine until I compressed the spring. Holding the valve up with a pair of vice grips 🙃
I dont have access to compressed air. How does rotating the work with an Auto? I plan to use the rope method, how does that work with locking the flywheel?
You will need to turn the crankshaft from the cam chain end, the rope thing is a waste of time on this engine as the plug holes are so far into the head, would be quicker taking the head off than trying to stuff that much string in, the engine is locked so it just won’t work
@@Scotty66 with air, would the process be the same on the Auto transmission? Just put it in drive, turn the wheels? What size air compressor would I need? I really appreciate your help and knowledge.
hi, did the valve stem seals replacement (could be regarded as cruel and unusual punishment...inhumane...) but forgot to put in the flywheel locking pin when assembling all together and torqueing according to spec (i did use the cams locking device). The car won't start (the battery is good, there is "ignition", the crank is rotating freely manually, the rev scale moves when i switch the ignition on) - could it be that not using the flywheel locking pin caused this ? i get a starter fault code (wasn't getting it before) - so could it be that it is a coincidence? thank you in advance
@@Scotty66 thank you. I did it with a rope (i.e. no pin while rotating the crank to get the pistons up/down), not air pressure. So, By setting the timing do you mean, dismantle everything to the point it was just after i finished with the valve seal stems and before starting the assembly, put the pin into the flywheel and continue with the locking tool, etc...? (I have the right tools, just wasn't concentrating enough after the tidieous replacement of the seals...🤦). Much appreciated
Lock the crankshaft with the pin, check where the cams are sitting, if the cam locking tools will fit then the timing is correct you have another problem. I would think the cams are out of time, with the flywheel locked loosen the cam pulleys and move the cams to there correct position, they need to be exact
Well...i re-did it, no change, so i removed the valve cover again and found all the exhaust valves to be "sunk" (all 8 springs are pressed down hard and the cam doesn't even touch them (no pressure on them). I put an endoscope into the cylinders and there are scratches in the pistons heads - when rotating the cams i see (i think) that the pistons may be indeed slightly touching the valves when they reach the top). I guess a rebuild is needed but i don't understand the issue with these 8 exhaust sunk valves , do you? Could it be that all 8 bent the same? I have photos of all of the above but can't upload here sadly
Original problem is oil burning of course but how do u determine it is the stem seals but not piston rings (or both)? For N14, stem seals are raised up so no oil will seep down overnight. Did the car constantly burn blue smoke and more when rev up, or does it puff out blue smoke when rev'ed up in neutral or car taking off from stop (which is my case)?
How much harder are the vvti engines to do ?? My inlaws mini has leaking guide seals and ive just started to pull the rocker cover off and strip the top end down the heads gotta come off plus all the timing set is being replaced and theres a heap of stuff bolted to the intake side that I'm not familiar with do they need to come off or can they stay in and still have access to the valves..yea I'm getting the head refaced as well
Hi Yes they all have to come off, a bit fiddly but straight forward, I found a video just on removing and re fitting the inlet side, search for that one. Specialist tools involved but you can get round that with normal tools.
@@brendangrumpyweir1905 Intake camshaft bearing cap to cylinder head M8 x 30.5 mm - 10 Nm (7.3 ft-lb) Exhaust camshaft bearing cap to cylinder head M6 x 40 mm - 10 Nm (7.3 ft-lb)
I just used to put rope through the spark plug hole, rotate crank to lock valves then hey presto do the job then rotate crank backwards remove rope and job done 😉
the cams and crank pulleys are not keyed to there shafts so can move freely when unlocked, the crank needs to be kept in place so it can be timed to the cam shafts
@@Scotty66 I have found on some cars you can remove the cam follower and replace the valve spring or seal without taking the cams out. I was trying to do the job without removing the cams.
@@davidnegron4193 ok, yeah this particular engine has the cam directly over valves so unfortunately not possible ( or extremely difficult to the point of being quicker to remove the cams)
The locking collars on the valve springs are my only scare. How do they work upon reinstall? Do they just click into place and you shift them freely or are the magnetized to the valve?
Spring pressure and tapered shape holds them in place, search “how do valve collets work” I’m using grease to temporarily hold them in place. Very simple, very clever
@@Scotty66 Awesome I appreciate it!! Is there a specific type of grease you are using? This is my first big job im doing on the Cooper and I'm trying to be as perfect as possible.
@@Scotty66 With your guide it seemed like it will be time consuming, but fairly easy. Did you have to replace the bolts for the sprockets on the timing chain?
@@Scotty66 where abouts is your garage could you inbox me as I've got this problem on my mini and was looking for someone to do it for me great video and no doubt you've had loads of people coming to you for the work to be done many thanks
Bought an r56 eml light on garage said it were headgesket done that still smokes from engine running an from the bk very rough idle any ideas ?? Anyone Tia
if its still smoking the valve stem oil seals need changing, should have been done when the head was off. rough idle could be many things but if the head has been off the cam timing could be incorrect.
you could have alot of issues from one or both fuel pump being bad, to a bad catalytic converter, a bad turbo or even a simple vacuum leak blue smoke is oil being burnt, white smoke is coolant I'd also check the cam timing visually as described in the video "easy to check" I'd also check the fly wheel position as well the R55/56 has only 1 relevant slot in the flywheel a lock pin fits into so its pretty easy to find. I'd also check the spark plugs & coil packs to make sure there operating correctly!
One of the easiest and cheapest fixes is to replace the PCV valve. This can cause oil burn, rough idling and similar problems. Plenty of videos on here how to replace.
I've just realised where you are. I'm at the other end of the country. I'd have to drive through 6 different strains of virus to get there. I'd better roll up my sleeves again and do it myself. Thanks for the video - very helpful ;)
I live in Tucson and this has to be the best valve seal video ever, did mine yesterday as per your video and it came out perfect.
fantastic video keep them coming.
A much awaited video of the valve stem seal replacement for R56 Mini. Thanks for covering the necessary details.
Excellent video! Thanks for posting this. This is the only video I have found on this specific procedure (that's not in Dutch) and now I can attempt to do this job without fear of mis-timing the engine.
Thanks for the video, just got a new project...... or problem as my wife calls them. Needs valve seals and this video is quick and great . Thanks
Great video, practical and informative. We have a non turbo Cooper that is puffing white smoke when hot and been idling for a while in traffic. Otherwise runs fine and not using coolant. Will give you a shout to do this to our car as I've got the kit but not the time!
This is exactly what my 2008 Cooper S is doing. Did you confirm that it was valve seals?
@@BenjaminFranceMusic No, it turned out to be a failed head gasket in the end! I changed it and rebuilt the head at the same time and all is good now
@@7suggs1 ah, I see. Good to know, thanks!
Finally a good guide on how to do this job without removing the head. I would like to add:
Intake cam gear bolt is 20Nm + 180° (tight to 20Nm and add half turn clockwise), exhaust cam gear is 20Nm + 90° (tight to 20Nm and add quarter turn clockwise), hold the camshafts in place by counterforce using wrench 27 on the other end.
Seating surfaces between the gears and cams need to be degreased and tightened properly to prevent slipping of the gears. That could allow timing to go out of spec or even valves to hit the pistons in worst case scenario
Better tight it properly....:)
Oh, and chain tensioner should be tightened to 80Nm.
You could also use a rope through the spark plug hole compressed by piston to hold the valves closed, maybe safer...
How is Your oil consumption after doing this job?
Thank you, smoke has stopped and barely any oil consumption now
Great video which really helped me a lot. However, I did not have to remove the intake camshaft gear, vacuum pump or oil (?) pump. Also: I was able to put the camshafts back in place without removing the timing chain tensioner (I pushed it in a little with a wooden stick) and making sure the chain was tight between crankshaft and exhaust gear, as well as intake gear. Apparently that was a big no-no for not removing the tensioner. This is what happened: upon starting car, it went in to high idle (cold engine). After a few seconds it went in to low idle and ran extremely rough with irregular RPM's. I decided to carefully warm the engine at a slightly higher RPM and drive in the neighborhood. Anything above low idle was just fine. After 5 miles, low idle was also back to normal and car drives great. Could it be that the tensioner needed some higher oil pressure to get back to a previous state with more tension on the chain?
BTW: before replacing the seals, the car was using 1QT every 400 miles and blowing blue smoke. The old seals were worn and dried out. Not sure if the problem is fixed as so far I only put 5 miles on it, but there are no longer spats of oil on my garage floor.
Thank you for your video.
Could you please clarify how many miles or kilometers had the car before replacing these valve stem oil seal?
Is it the same engine of the car since brand new or a swap?
Thank you in advance for your answer. It will help me to unserstand my Mini's issues .
This was a great help. Thanks for making this video.
Glad it helped!
Hi Scott - excellent video and I'm almost done with my job. I learned a few things that I'll post a bit later that I think will help others on this job.
For now, you mentioned in the captions that you should install the top guide first before inserting the temporary tensioning tool, but it looks like you didn't do that. I wanted to confirm that we should put the top guide on first, then put the temporary tensioning tool in with the chain fairly tight without movement, then torque the new cam gear bolts, then remove the temporary tool, then put in the original tensioner. Sound right?
Hello, thank you very much for the video, very well done and the procedure explained, I will move on with the work. I just have one question, can a 50 liter compressor handle the job?
Hi, yes, it’s about pressure not capacity
very good tutorial, thank you.
At what point did you remove the chain tensioner (or did i miss it) ? before opening the sprockets 100nm torqued bolts or after ?
When putting all back, why not put the tensioner back before tightening the sprockets (why use the tool first) ?
thank you
Thank you for making the video that was very helpful
Well Done Brilliant tutorial👍
This is just awesome, excellent guide. thank you so much!
Anthony, when I plug compressor and inflate chamber, seems like its leaking somewhere, I hear air noise on intake side. is it same when you were doing that? Generally cylinder holds a good compression 11 bar +-
Good video, soon i will change them too, one question tho, is not possible to take out the camshafts without pulling out the sprockets, in the idea that the chain might be loose enough to do it? Thank for all the information in this video!
I was thinking the same thing. Marking the chain to the sprocket and leaving the sprocket on the shaft. Hopefully there is enough slack on the chain to do so. I recently did the timing chain with new stretch bolts.
Hi! What is the cost to have this done? I have peugeot 208 gti 2013. I am confident it has bad stem seals
ok a daft question, as I'm about to do this very same job.. what pressure would you run into the cylinders to hold the valves in-place whilst doing the job?
I've just done this and 4 - 6 barg did the trick (just a normal domestic air compressor). I found that initially the spring caps didn't break away when compressed, however a little release oil then a tap with a rubber mallet & screw driver and they popped free. HTH
excellent vlog could i ask how much would this cost?
Did this solve the smoking problem? Mine is smoking blue when warmed up don't know if it's bad seals or rings, my compression was good when I checked it so I'm assuming that the rings should be okay. But then again it's possible that thier not and it's still getting good compession
Great video especially the hillbilly pressure line. Cheers
My cylinder 1 is full of oil. Only on 26k miles. Looks like pcv been pouring oil out but not sure how it's getting into cylinder 1?
Hi do you know what the six threaded bushing are for .Great video very well documented Thanks 😊.
Can you advise how long this took from start to finish so I can plan it in?
8:24
What is the diameter size of the modified spark plug ?
Would like to see if there is an adaptor that I could buy extra to do the compression, I'm useless in fabrication so maybe there is an adaptor I could place onto the hose supplied in the Valve kit?
This is great. Any chance you could provide a list - tools parts etc?
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274252967704
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392108819248
Did you remove the crankshaft pulley bolt for timing?
Do you have to take the sprokets of the end on the camshafts. Can you mark the chain and spokets or is it a must to remove them and retime?
As per video must be removed
Excellent overview and detail! Now to attack mine...lol
2013 mini cooper s here --> smoke blowing out back and i suspect valve stem seals... would this still work for a 1.6 l 4-cylinder ?
Thanks for this I'm about to do this job soon! I have 2 questions.
1) when you put the car in 6th gear to lock the crank do you leave the car in 6th gear for the entire job? Or do you put it back in neutral once the crank is locked?
2) if you don't have an air compressor can you use the rope trick to stop the valves from falling in? Obviously you can't turn the crank to minimize the space up cause you've locked it.
Thanks again this video will save me lots of money!
Hi
You can take it out of gear but leave the pin in to keep the timing, the time it would take to stuff rope in each cylinder you may as well take the head off.
No need to be in gea,r the bottom pin tool is plenty to hold the crank mate.
Will this procedure work on a 2010 mini cooper's s convertible, automatic transmission
Hi where are you based and what do you charge to replace stem valves. Thank
Hi, Northumberland, depends on model but usually around £350 plus vat
I really need to do this to my R60 mini! I hope I can do it at home haha, would really save me money!
hi how are you i’m looking to do the same thing on my car a have everything but can you talk how much psi of pressure you need to haul the valves up ?
My compressor runs at 100 psi
Where are you based ? Would you do mine ?
how many miles did this r56 have when this happened?
Will you add the item # description of the cam locking and spring compressor tool you used from eBay?
the flywhell thing..
is it u cut of the tail due to cannot access???
because now I brought from china , they given 2 tools but 1 of the tools unable to go in ... the other one look like too small, and don't feel any like blocking,, easy in and out. i also confuse now.
if it without this tools can do timing chain?
Hello, thank you for the tutorial. can you uplaod a link to the red box kit ? or share its name..?
This is complicated. Great job.
Great video - now I am confident to do it myself! How many hours did you use for this operation?
around 5 hours
@@Scotty66 Impressive! It might take the double time for me, but hey. It's money well saved regardless.
How do you turn the engine over is you have an automatic?
18 mm socket on the crankshaft bolt.
How much psi are you pushing in the cylinder?
Just whatever my compressor gives, around 100psi I guess
Thank did mine this weekend thanks for your video
Is that work for countryman sd as well? Thanks
Hi I have a 2012 mini Cooper countryman s r60 turbo and it smokes a lot on a cold start only and it clears up in about a minimal or so and after that it’s fine doesn’t smoke while idling or driving only cold starts and I notice it after I did a oil change is this what i need to do change my valve seals?
Sounds like stem oil seals or could be the turbo, is it petrol or diesel ?
I got the exhaust side done, but one cylinder on the intake side is blasting air from the throttle body and the compressor cant keep up. What am I doing wrong here? The other 3 are fine. It was fine until I compressed the spring. Holding the valve up with a pair of vice grips 🙃
When you press the tool down it’s opening the valve, give the tool a tap with a hammer above the valve to loosen the valve collets
very good video. you might do that with the rope method. to show as how to do it.
I prefer the danger and tension it creates using compressed air lol, the rope trick takes hours
I dont have access to compressed air. How does rotating the work with an Auto? I plan to use the rope method, how does that work with locking the flywheel?
You will need to turn the crankshaft from the cam chain end, the rope thing is a waste of time on this engine as the plug holes are so far into the head, would be quicker taking the head off than trying to stuff that much string in, the engine is locked so it just won’t work
@@Scotty66 with air, would the process be the same on the Auto transmission? Just put it in drive, turn the wheels? What size air compressor would I need? I really appreciate your help and knowledge.
hi, did the valve stem seals replacement (could be regarded as cruel and unusual punishment...inhumane...) but forgot to put in the flywheel locking pin when assembling all together and torqueing according to spec (i did use the cams locking device). The car won't start (the battery is good, there is "ignition", the crank is rotating freely manually, the rev scale moves when i switch the ignition on) - could it be that not using the flywheel locking pin caused this ? i get a starter fault code (wasn't getting it before) - so could it be that it is a coincidence? thank you in advance
You have lost the valve timing not using the crank pin, you need to re time the engine using the correct tools, hopefully nothing has touched and bent
@@Scotty66 thank you. I did it with a rope (i.e. no pin while rotating the crank to get the pistons up/down), not air pressure. So, By setting the timing do you mean, dismantle everything to the point it was just after i finished with the valve seal stems and before starting the assembly, put the pin into the flywheel and continue with the locking tool, etc...? (I have the right tools, just wasn't concentrating enough after the tidieous replacement of the seals...🤦). Much appreciated
Lock the crankshaft with the pin, check where the cams are sitting, if the cam locking tools will fit then the timing is correct you have another problem.
I would think the cams are out of time, with the flywheel locked loosen the cam pulleys and move the cams to there correct position, they need to be exact
@@Scotty66 thank you very much for your patience. 🍻🍻
Well...i re-did it, no change, so i removed the valve cover again and found all the exhaust valves to be "sunk" (all 8 springs are pressed down hard and the cam doesn't even touch them (no pressure on them). I put an endoscope into the cylinders and there are scratches in the pistons heads - when rotating the cams i see (i think) that the pistons may be indeed slightly touching the valves when they reach the top). I guess a rebuild is needed but i don't understand the issue with these 8 exhaust sunk valves , do you? Could it be that all 8 bent the same? I have photos of all of the above but can't upload here sadly
Original problem is oil burning of course but how do u determine it is the stem seals but not piston rings (or both)? For N14, stem seals are raised up so no oil will seep down overnight. Did the car constantly burn blue smoke and more when rev up, or does it puff out blue smoke when rev'ed up in neutral or car taking off from stop (which is my case)?
When taking off from stop, what do you think it is ?
How much harder are the vvti engines to do ?? My inlaws mini has leaking guide seals and ive just started to pull the rocker cover off and strip the top end down the heads gotta come off plus all the timing set is being replaced and theres a heap of stuff bolted to the intake side that I'm not familiar with do they need to come off or can they stay in and still have access to the valves..yea I'm getting the head refaced as well
Hi
Yes they all have to come off, a bit fiddly but straight forward, I found a video just on removing and re fitting the inlet side, search for that one.
Specialist tools involved but you can get round that with normal tools.
@@Scotty66 would you happen to have the torque settings for all the intake cam caps exhaust cam caps and all the vvti torque settings at all please
@@brendangrumpyweir1905 Intake camshaft bearing cap to cylinder head M8 x 30.5 mm - 10 Nm (7.3 ft-lb)
Exhaust camshaft bearing cap to cylinder head M6 x 40 mm - 10 Nm (7.3 ft-lb)
I just used to put rope through the spark plug hole, rotate crank to lock valves then hey presto do the job then rotate crank backwards remove rope and job done 😉
What’s the purpose of locking the flywheel if the camshaft locking tool is meant to serve the same purpose? Or am I wrong
the cams and crank pulleys are not keyed to there shafts so can move freely when unlocked, the crank needs to be kept in place so it can be timed to the cam shafts
@@Scotty66 Thank you!
Any chance you can use the valve spring compression tool to remove pressure off the followers and remove the followers without taking the cams out?
Not sure why you would want to do that but no as the tool needs the camshaft out to work, it pushes the valve spring straight down.
@@Scotty66 I have found on some cars you can remove the cam follower and replace the valve spring or seal without taking the cams out. I was trying to do the job without removing the cams.
@@davidnegron4193 ok, yeah this particular engine has the cam directly over valves so unfortunately not possible ( or extremely difficult to the point of being quicker to remove the cams)
Hi I thought the torque settings for the cam sprockets were as follows:
Inlet - 20Nm + 180 degrees
Exhaust - 20Nm + 90 degrees
Cheers
The locking collars on the valve springs are my only scare. How do they work upon reinstall? Do they just click into place and you shift them freely or are the magnetized to the valve?
Spring pressure and tapered shape holds them in place, search “how do valve collets work” I’m using grease to temporarily hold them in place.
Very simple, very clever
@@Scotty66 Awesome I appreciate it!! Is there a specific type of grease you are using? This is my first big job im doing on the Cooper and I'm trying to be as perfect as possible.
@@michaelcoverdell3928 just regular axle grease, very fiddly job
@@Scotty66 With your guide it seemed like it will be time consuming, but fairly easy. Did you have to replace the bolts for the sprockets on the timing chain?
@@michaelcoverdell3928 yes always replace the bolts
Between this and the vvt engine, what would the main differences in the procedure be?
search a video on vvt mini, there a lot more complex and need special tools (or make a tool)
@@Scotty66 where abouts is your garage could you inbox me as I've got this problem on my mini and was looking for someone to do it for me great video and no doubt you've had loads of people coming to you for the work to be done many thanks
@@devlin686 Hi
Scott Automotive
Unit B
Newbiggin home farm
Hexham
NE461SZ
07799642846
Scottautouk@gmail.com
Excellent video 👍
Great video
excellent vid mate
Thank you ❤
CONGRATULATIONS FROM ARGENTINA
I also noticed the tensioner is the old shorter version.
Bought an r56 eml light on garage said it were headgesket done that still smokes from engine running an from the bk very rough idle any ideas ?? Anyone Tia
if its still smoking the valve stem oil seals need changing, should have been done when the head was off. rough idle could be many things but if the head has been off the cam timing could be incorrect.
@anthony scott yes it's Jst a circus now it's started misfiring badly scrapyard I wrecken
@@boneygator4466 bad news mate
you could have alot of issues from one or both fuel pump being bad, to a bad catalytic converter, a bad turbo or even a simple vacuum leak
blue smoke is oil being burnt, white smoke is coolant
I'd also check the cam timing visually as described in the video "easy to check" I'd also check the fly wheel position as well the R55/56 has only 1 relevant slot in the flywheel a lock pin fits into so its pretty easy to find.
I'd also check the spark plugs & coil packs to make sure there operating correctly!
One of the easiest and cheapest fixes is to replace the PCV valve. This can cause oil burn, rough idling and similar problems. Plenty of videos on here how to replace.
I don't suppose you offer this as a service do you?
Yes we do
I've just realised where you are. I'm at the other end of the country. I'd have to drive through 6 different strains of virus to get there. I'd better roll up my sleeves again and do it myself. Thanks for the video - very helpful ;)
@@davekember653 uknow most garage can do this job, if your not handy with a sledge hammer & screw driver!!
I introduced compressed air into the cylinder and it sent my motor flying out of time.... now I have no time that to do.
Lock the flywheel in position
i think i have the same problem with my mini cooper s r58 😱😱😱
Really love the video, but for the love of god, take the freaking gum out next time
The gum chewing hurts my ears.
Spit it out then...
Gracias 👏🏻👏🏻