Dry Hopping Hazies and Why You're Doing it WRONG! Scott Janish The NEW IPA WRONG!!! I was WRONG!!!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 20 жов 2022
- The NEW IPA - amzn.to/3sfPKXU
Peter Symons - prstemp.wixsite.com/tritun-books
Kegland - Bluestone Yeast - bit.ly/BluestoneYeastFTW
Grain and Grape Bluestone - www.grainandgrape.com.au/?s=b...
ANHC - anhc.com.au/
Kegland - bit.ly/Kegland-Gear
PATREON - / thehomebrewnetwork
T-Shirts and More - shop.spreadshirt.com/home-bre...
Twitch - / gash_slugg
Discord - / discord
Brew Beer Shirt - store.streamelements.com/gash...
Kegland - bit.ly/Kegland-Gear
Amazon Brewing - www.amazon.com/shop/thehomebr...
More Beer Aff. - bit.ly/MoreBeerAff
BYO Magazine - byo.com/shop?ref=32
Zymurgy Magazine Aff. - bit.ly/HomeBrewersAssociation
Brewfather - bit.ly/Brewfather
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Video Gear
Microphone - amzn.to/3iUQriJ
Camera - amzn.to/3Y67AMm
Sigma 16mm lens - amzn.to/37IiXRM
Macro Lens - amzn.to/3rmOmRA
Newer Ring Light - amzn.to/3aAy4yL
Newer smaller LED light - amzn.to/44Bs2H9
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CIP Spray Rotor - bit.ly/CIP-Rotor
Scrub Daddy Sponge - amzn.to/3q1n3ke
Scrub Daddy Sponge Ebay - ebay.us/ynadsm
PILL Wireless Kit - bit.ly/WirelessKitPill
Pill Wireless Barebones Kit - bit.ly/WirelessBarebones
Low Oxygen Corny Seal Kit - bit.ly/KegSealKit
Brewzilla Gen 4 - bit.ly/Brewzilla35LGen4
Bluetooth RAPT thermometer - bit.ly/RaptBTthermometer
Fermzilla TriClamp Collection Jar - bit.ly/600mlYeastCollection
Complete Corny Keg Seal and Fittings Kit - bit.ly/CompleteKegKit
Heat Proof Brewing Gloves - bit.ly/HeatProofGrippyGloves
Inkbird Ebay - ebay.us/2Yewxx
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks For watching!
DISCLAIMER:
This description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and buy a product, I receive a small commission.
I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. - Навчання та стиль
I have always dry-hopped after fermentation and dropping the temp to on or below 15c and then dry-hop for 2 days. This I got from a video featuring Verdant explaining the whole process as according to their experience. This has worked for me. I have always been a skeptic with biotransformation as the reason for the haze
I found I wasn't getting the same or as good hop aromas from the 15c Dry Hops, I suspect due to no yeast activity and wort movement. It would probably of worked if I could of removed the yeast and roused with CO2, so I went back to dry hopping just before ferment is finished, that also helped getting rid of any oxygen that might of got in during the dry hop. So for me to drop to 15c was an extra step that didn't benefit my beer, but of course, if it helped you or anyone else that's bloody awesome! Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork I came to your channel again to specifically ask you how you are dry hopping theses days. I myself, have an all rounder plus a hop bong. With the development in the past year or so with minimal hop contact time, even down to just hours, I was curious which procedure would be most suitable for the equipment I have. No way of dropping yeast and no way of removing hops #1. Dry hop at 15C after fermentation then cold crash pretty much right away with probably 2-3 days contact time. Or, 2. Dry hop with a few gravity points left. This would give the hop contact time I'm guessing 3-5 days contact or more. Just curious of what you think of this? Thanks!
@@jasonwarren4023 The fast dry hopping thing to me is in effective, yep I've read things and I've questioned "experts" etc With all my experimenting it doesn't work well in a home brew set up. The "experts" like Scott Janish who dry hops fast in 2 days at 2c is only effective if you can get rid of all the yeast and after dry hopping recirculate the beer or rouse the hops easily several times a day with out causing oxidation, at home this very hard, even in my stainless conicals that are identical to commercial breweries.. except for size which makes a huge difference, I can't dump enough yeast without wasting several litres of beer, if that sort of wastage is ok with people go for it, commercial breweries can lose 10L of beer out of their 10,000L tank, losing 2L out of 20L is a different thing. Also setting up a recirc or even effective rousing system at home is problematic. While our systems are nearly the same commercial breweries usually have a lot more expensive equipment that can make this easier, bigger fermenters more space for extra ports etc. Without rousing or recircing short dry hop times at cold temps are ineffective.
I've has no success with say dropping to 15c to dry hop, well no better results, worse if anything. Lots of people do it to stop hop creep but most of these people don't truly understand hop creep and how it works. Firstly if you keg and once you keg you throw your keg into a kegerator hop creep isn't going to be a problem. Its a problem for commercial breweries who store keg and bottles/cans warm for long periods of time. Enzymes from the hops can cause some more fermentation which can over carb of even explode cans or bottles. If you dry hop cold to stop hop creep you need to keep that beer cold through the rest of its life, otherwise those enzymes can still be in the beer and wake up and cause more fermentation, some breweries however will pass the beer through some form of pasteurisation UV or heat treated etc to kill anything like the trouble causing enzyme. Again this at home usually is not the answer, who pasteurises their beer at home? So cold dry hopping isn't the answer for hop creep at home. It's best and a ton easier to dry hop at ferment temps this way the enzyme becomes active in the ferment and does what is does their and it doesn't cause issue down the line, you can do what you want with the beer.
For me I put those two things together and cold or lower temp dry hopping is more trouble than its worth, of course I encourage anyone to do their own experimenting, but between me and my brewing community none of us have had better results by dry hopping at colder temps.
The other thing that bugs me is this repeated that 2 days is enough, I posted that study well over 10 years ago, it's not new information, though yes I agree its going around the last few years, people just wanting to speed things up.. The original study say yes, sometimes yep two days is enough, and yes sometimes aroma levels can start dropping at 4 days, but it was extremely minimal dropping by 4 days, a sparrows fart. Its much much more important to make sure the ferment is finished and you are happy with the aroma! it might be 4 days until its great, it might be more, there's no set times for these things. Grassiness yes can happen but its most grassiness comes whole hops or wet hops where you really need to dry hop for a week with those and all that leafy green matter adds a green matter taste especially wet hops. Some pelletised hops are more likely to cause some grassiness but that's one of those brewing things you learn not to use that certain hop in large amounts at that part of the brewing process, I might say something like galaxy people say they get grassiness from, its great as a dry hop, but be restrained and its better blended, most hops are.
All rounder, ok you cant dump the yeast, and rousing is out of the question because you don't want to stir up the trub and yeast once its fallen out.
Since you have a hop bong, you can wait until the ferment is finished to dry hop, dry hop times well that's until you're happy with it, I can say there's no brewery that I visit that goes yep that's two days, its done.. They will all test it first and will not move it on until its ready, they might dry hop more even. If breweries aren't doing that they are stupid.
I still think dry hopping just before the end of ferment is more effective, there's small movement from the yeast still which helps distribute the hops and its hops throughout the beer, I'm talking just 1 or 2 gravity points before the end. The krausen has near gone by this stage, you're not venting off huge amounts of aroma, its barely bubbling. It's also good and common practice, if you aren't fermenting under pressure from the start, to apply head pressure into the vessel to try and keep those hop aromas and oils in the beer. In this case, don't rush it, you must be sure the ferment is finished, it should be since you've probably already raised the temp a few degrees you do that at 1.020-1.025, if it takes 4 days, 5 days, that's the most important.
It's also totally fine to have the the dry hops in for much longer once you cold crash it, the grassiness thing happens more at warm temps, so there's no rush here, the guys at Mountain Culture for instance cold crash for 4 days for their really big hopped beers, to make sure all that hop matter falls out.
If you use hops that are known for grassiness but you really want to use them say for a highly hopped galaxy beer you can try waiting till ferment is finished, dry hopping just give it a day or two at the warms temps, then cold crash and leave it there until you're happy.
Woah that's a lot and I have no time to re-read and make sure I got everything right lol I think I went through most things?
Home brewers are quick to jump on anything that makes things faster, its not always the best thing. They love grabbing something a brewery does but a ton of things that are easy or work in a brewery don't always translate easily at home. They love grabbing a Brusloppy experiment that they did on one beer and tested it with random people in a bar... That's not science and what works once, doesn't mean its best practice or will work with all beers. Take your time, experiment and find what works for you. Brewing trends are a dime a dozen, rarely do many last the test of time.
Cheers mate! :)
@@HomeBrewNetwork I was hoping for some guidance. I wasn't expecting such a detailed and elaborate explanation. I can't thank you enough for this. Shout out here all the way from Newfoundland, Canada. Thanks again so much. Cheers!
Great to see you to the ANHC conference. It was a great presentation and this is one of the best conferences in Australia. Thanks for sharing the run down.
Interesting info, thanks for sharing mate. It was great to meet you at ANHC too.
Same mate, cheers!
Thank you for reporting on the conference. Really great information.
Any time! Cheers Hayden!
Iv started experimenting with 24hrs and less dry hopping iv dry hopped a beer at 5pm and tasted it at 10pm and all the desired fruity aromas are in the beer (it surprised me) I let it sit for 24hrs and any longer I think I would of got more of the undesirable bitterness, in the all rounder I’m doing the magnets and hop bag way dropping in after fermentation @ 19c I can’t remove the yeast though nor cold crash.
In a verdant video they say they dry hop after fermentation and their beers are hazy.
I found after 48-36hrs I get the polyphenol bitterness that then needs a week to condition out to reveal the fruity aromas this was my main objective to try and nail this. There is also a ych video dry hop best practice and they mention about removing the yeast and the stripping of the hop flavours. Iv been piecing this information together from different sources, Scott janish, Yakima chief UA-cam, brulosophy/ bru lab pod cast. And talks from Russian river, alchemist and Verdant.
Great video and very interesting to go through! I'm looking at getting the book next month and I'm very keen to see how much I have done wrong also haha
It was great getting to meet you at the club night and thanks for reminding Scott Janish to bring out Sapwood Cellars' beers!! :)
Thanks mate and bloody hell yes! If I had of forgot I would of been kicking myself hahaha Cheers!
Great information, this helps me a lot with dry hop timing between my favorites, Bavarian Wheat beer and European style lager. Thanks !
Cheers mate!
Fantastic video! Really enjoyed the content, especially the dry hop haze. I'm a huge fan of Janish as well!
Awesome, thank you! Cheers mate!
A great book. His sessions were excellent. I also found out the best way to get a clear IPA, dry hop day one with Mosaic and Ekuanot, then ferment with a good flocculating yeast.
G'day Barry! Cheers mate!
My concern is the obsession with Haze. Honestly, I don't care if a NEIPA is moderately hazy or if it's OJ hazy. As long as the hops express themselves to their full potential. Does intense haze = intensely hoppy taste and aroma? Are they directly co-related? Probably to some extent but I've had opaque hazies that were muted and mildly hazy beers that were super punchy. Is the study takeaway just about appearances? Also, what about dry hopping beyond day 8. Does haze go down further on the chart or does it plateau out? I like to dryhop post-fermentation (so does Verdant brewery) sometimes I go to day 14, then contact time is 1 or 2 days. I feel like post ferment, less of the aroma hop volatiles are pushed out the air-lock. All-in-all a great discussion point! Thanks for posting the video and sharing the info.
Yep I agree, I think the topic could be talked about for hours, the yeast has to be gotten rid off and as mentioned it can and will mute flavours if circulated with dry hops etc, Scott actually said they use biofine in the hazies, to get rid of the yeast, so just because yeast causes the haze doesnt mean the yeast has to stay in the beer, actually beneficial to get rid of it, I think a lot of smaller breweries can struggle with that without the right filtration or chemical methods and the beers get really muted and muddy sometimes. This video I concentrated on the haze part, he did go through flavours etc but it wasn't my slide show so I wanted to leave something for the ANHC videos when they come out.
I'm boiling a pale ale right now and your vid popped up while I'm sitting down waiting. One of my best results came from fermenting for two weeks, then dry hopping for another week before bottling. It was a session ale so not really on the same subject of haziness but for me it was the most flavourful dry hop i have achieved so far. Great vids, you deserve more subscribers. I have started making my own homebrew vids among other things and a lot of work goes into it.
Good stuff! I'll sub to you mate. cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork Thanks, I appreciate it.
Perfect! I am brewing an English IPA tomorrow for competition. I will be dry hopping day 1 for the clarity 😁
Just thought I’d remind you that you brewed an IPA, not an “English” IPA 🥸
Day 7 dry hop!! Mind blown. Another great video. Cheers
Thank you! Cheers!
Wow truly grateful Gash mind definitely blown who would of thought it aye ! Brewing is a wonderful thing!
Crazy stuff, cheers Ben!
Great vid!! so glad i found it, thanks.
Glad you liked it! Cheers!
It'd be interesting to know how many people bought into the high krausen dry hop for the true hazy, I tried it a few times but the results were many and varied so went back to a single 3 day dry hop, generally day 7 to 10.....with a 3 day cold crash.....I wonder how much of these new techniques are designed around selling books?..........just like new yeast strains are about selling yeast, great video old mate........cheers
yeah interesting thats for sure mate. Cheers! I grabbed a nice beer for you yesterday at Blackmans, that bourbon barrel aged stout.
interesting, although ive never heard of dry hopping early to promote haze. Only heard of benefits to bio-transformation and oxygen exposure while you open fermenter. I have heard of dry hopping after fermentation to combat hop burn and creep though. I have 2 pressure fermenters, so i put the dry hop in one and ferment in the other, with the fermentation gas purging the second fermenter. I cold crash, then do a closed transfer onto dry hops, turn off cooling until dry hop complete, then cold crash again & carbonate, transferring to keg once crashed, usually fully carbonated.
Hmm. Got my very first beer in the fermenter now. Just dry hopped at day 6 woth almost zero fermentation activity still going on. Wonder if i accidentally made a hazy session ipa. Either way i think this first go at the craft is going to turn out very nice.
Heyyy. Where's the footage of us wearing our Tutu's on stage at ANHC club night! Good stuff mate ☺️ lots of discussion happening back at SABC meets regarding this topic now.
It did nearly make it to the video though I only had a photo lol Cheers!
Just came across this video. I’m fermenting a hazy now, and I’m wondering if the day 7 dry hop time is taking into consideration individual fermentation times assuming the day 7 timing in the study is toward the very end of fermentation, but before reaching final gravity. I just dry hopped mine after day 2 because the beer was about 5-8 gravity points from FG. So I am wondering if the results should be based off of gravity rather than number of days.
You are absoulty right.
Hello! Where can i find this particular presentation and presentation of the conference in general? Really thank you to keep us updated.
Im still waiting for it to be released... Hopefully soon!
Thanks Gash! Was planning on going to ANHC, but unfortunately life got in the way. I have a fermzilla tri conical and hop bong which is basically at the end of finishing off a NEIPA. Was planning on a "soft" cold crash down from about 24C being the last step of the diacetyl rest to about 15C, then closing off the collection jar at the bottom, and adding the hops through the purged hop bong. Leaving it at 15C for a couple of days, then cold crashing further before packaging. I already stuffed up adding about 1/3 of the dry hop at day 2-3 during high krausen. I have already done one dump of the yeast and dropped dry hops after about 6 days contact time. What do you think?
Just continue on, I havent found benefit from 15c dry hopping, but I haven't suffered hop creep in my system, but yes just do you were going to do, I'm sure it will be fine. Next time if you want to change things up, do it then, Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork Will do, thanks! Only my second attempt at a NEIPA, not really my favourite style. My first attempt when I just chucked all the dry hop at the end of fermentation ended up clearer than my last pilsner. Tasted pretty good, people loved it, wasn't a hazy.
Hi ! Do you know where I can find an update of The New IPA book please ? Thank you sir
Good tips mate!
Glad you think so!
Super interesting!!! Can't wait to play with this on my end
Hope you enjoy it!
Hi, maybe I missed it, but what was the total fermenting time in these experiments? Most of the recipes I follow call for a 14 day fermentation. So if following the recommendations of this video is day 7 still the best or should I try it at day 12?
Length of ferment is entirely up to the yeast, the figure of 2 weeks is a safety barrier for beginners, most ferments should be done in 7 days if sufficient yeast and conditions are met, my assumption from both these talks is this would be right at the end of ferment, the best time is just before the end, it'll solve a few things, it'll help circulate the hops and it'll get rid of hop creep. Leave it another few days to finish off 3 or 4 and then you should be right to go. Cheers
Very interesting! You reckon you might do a side by side / split batch to test it out? :)
I wormed you in the video :D
@@HomeBrewNetwork I got my 5 seconds of fame, hazzah! Was great to meet you, hopefully I can make it to the full conference next time :)
"Recirculation in the fermenter at home..." That's exactly what 'm looking for, Hop Teas as an alternative to dry hopping and the Cold Steep temperatures . Would love to see you address either of these issues, if possible.
Recirculation is too hard at home on most setups and and the chance of oxidation is high, its not impossible but I wouldnt try it with out a Peristatic Pump or similar, which I dont have at the moment. Hop teas I never liked years ago in extract brewing and so I'd never throw one at my hard earned all grain brews, just hot water draws out bitterness, can add oxygen and the end result is nothing like a traditional dry hop in my opinion. Let me know what you do! Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. I was actually considering "Cold Steeping" rather than hot water extraction. Similarly, I'm wrestling with ideas of using water, or drawing of some of the green beer from the fermenter and steeping in that before adding back to the fermenter. To be honest, I didn't give much thought to oxidation during transfers... perhaps I should. Thanks again.
@@TheHeraldOfChange in my opinion you should take great care, the slightest oxidation will strip your hop aromas faster than you can put them in. There are many myths that yeast can fix oxygen damage and they are myths, its just not true there is no fixing oxygen damage. Cheers!!
@@HomeBrewNetwork Thanks agai. Lots to think about. Cheers, and have a good one!
A few years back i spoke with the owner of our local brewery (that i now work for) and was curious about the best days and temperatures to dry hop at to get the most punch for aroma and flavour. He recommended i try out what Modus Operandi was doing and how they dry hopped a few days before the beer was ready to be cold crashed. So in short dry hop at your diacetyl temp.
I started dry hopping at Day 5 (100g) and Day 7 (50g) for all my IPAs and on Day 5 i would increase the temp from 18c to 19-19.5c. Day 7 would increase the temp another degree or so.
I discovered two things immediately, all my IPAs had a far better aroma and flavour but the clarity was suffering immensely.
Once i started doing NEIPAs, all my beers came out looking like Golden Circle Breakfast Juice and i noticed that i get better results on flavour, aroma, attenuation and haziness by sticking to my dry hopping methods instead of trying to dry hop early into fermentation.
This confirms what i always thought since i've never seen any information on this topic outside of my own findings.
Currently doing a 50L NEIPA at work for a our own R&D and i was looking for a different approach to dry hopping and i think i might stick to what i've been doing.
PS: I love how they used Citra, Galaxy and Eclipse for their tests... those are the 3 hops i use for my NEIPA and fuck me it is a juice bomb.
Thats exactly how I've dry hopped for years, just before the end at the temp rise. Cheers!
And was anything discussed about aroma? As I thought Biotransformation was a key part of the reason to dry hop in active fermentation, rather than haze formation.
Was always said it was for haze, the later, 2nd, dry hop was to replace the aroma driven off due too the active fermentation. Cheers!
So weird to me that everyone wants to dry hop at low temperatures. I have dry hopped at high krausen with London Ale 3 and have always gotten incredible results that I would put up against any commercial example. Citra, Mosaic, Galaxy is an unbeatable combo I use in a 3:2:1 ratio. I don’t need any additional haze, my hazy never drops anywhere near clear before I finish the keg. Maris Otter, Flaked Oats, Flaked Barley, White wheat, splash of Honey.
Dry hopping at low temps is shit for me, I wont do it, its never better unless you go through a lot of trouble, and its risky cheers!
Bit of a Newby here, if you're hopping at day 7, then how much longer do you keep in fermentation? Because from what I've been reading and doing is bottling usually around day 7. So dry hop the same day you bottle? 🤔
usually day 10
Wow that’s wild. I always would dry hop 48hrs into ferm.
Thanks for watching mate!
Did the talks ever get released? Would love to watch them!
There was some issues... But they may be released very soon... Cheers
Very interesting - thanks! But I have a question: is there any connection between haze and taste/aroma in a NEIPA?
If not, why is haze considered so important? Purely for the look/aesthetics?
Maybe I didn't explain this video clearly enough, I'm just showing a bit of the talk, it wasn't my talk or slides and the ANHC will hopefully eventually release the whole talk which will contain more information on which hops are best for last flavour etc I was just interested in the dry hop timing for the haze since it's the opposite of what most have been saying to do. Haze is part of the style I think, though I'm not sure if hazy is in the BJCP yet, it is listed in most other beer style guidelines. Hazy for me is about the haze, and for me it shouldn't even be called an IPA unless its going to be bitter, NEIPA... could lose the IPA on the end and I'd be much happier... It's all a bit confusing.. lol
The other thing about haze to me is the beer shouldn't be muddy and it shouldn't be left over mixed in yeast. It's interesting for me to know how to get and keep the haze "properly" and not taking short cuts, or using the term hazy beer because people are dodgy brewers and can't get a beer clear lol
@@HomeBrewNetwork Fair enough. I agree there's a difference between opaque and hazy, so it's good to know how to achieve one without the other. Flavour and aroma for me are much bigger considerations, but I'll hold tight for more detail on that. Thanks again for the reporting and for the super detailed response!
Axis titles and units are essential on all plots.
does this means for a clean beer, instead of last 3 days dry hop, we should dry hope in the 4-9 days window when fermentation still active?
Either day 1 seems an option or after the ferment, if that's possible in your set up without damaging the beer with oxygen. Cheers!
Is there any reason we can't use a product like KegLand's Hop Bong to circulate cold beer through hops in place of CO2 rousing?
You could try yes, for sure
Dry hopping at 7 days for 24-72hours happens to be very convenient timing for those with a basic fermenter.
Yes it is, its about the time I always dry hopped a regular beer. Cheers!
The newest IPA I brewed was 8¼ pounds Rhar pilsner, 4¼ pounds Maris Otter, ½ pound Briess caramel 20. Hopped with 1oz Dr. Rudi at boil then 1oz Galaxy at 10 minutes, 1oz at 0 minutes and then an ounce dry hopping for 7 days after 10 days fermentation. The yeast was Coopers (not the stuff under the lid of the kit but their actual yeast for their beers. It is sadly an annual release in the states so it is a big deal for me when I get it). The beer has kept its haze since July. Absolutely lovely beer and I need to use Galaxy more often. Not sure where I am going with this but cheers! Wish I could post a pic of it in UA-cam comments.
Thats odd, we can't get the coopers yeast here, it's a Coopers brewery only yeast! Though we can culture it from bottles of course. Is that the Melbourne Ale yeast strain you're talking about? Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork White Labs WLP009 Australian Ale Yeast. Everything I have read online keeps pointing back to Coopers as being the parent strain. I know the internet can be full of shit sometimes but haven't seen anything that contradicts the claim either. Might be part of the licensing agreement too why it's only released once a year. Twice I have used it and it has been an amazing yeast so you would think Wyeast would keep it all year unless a certain Brewery's lawyers are saying no 🤷♂️
@@cogeek797 I've heard its similar, Coopers have never said it is though, said they'd never sell it, but hey, its just yeast! Could be the same!
@@HomeBrewNetwork Budweiser said the same thing but thanks to Coors and Charlie Papazian Cry Havoc is supposedly Anheiser Busch's proprietary strain
How many days should the Hops be in the CCT, If i Dry Hop on day 7.
I got a 30 Liter NEIPA batch coming up with 330 Grams of Hops for Dry Hopping.
As long as it takes to finish, 3-6 daysish
With regards to the GMO yeast, I find the “thiols” to mostly drive this huge white wine, grape aroma I’m not particularly crazy about. I want to experiment with co-pitching multiple strains to get the benefit of their different capabilities, rather than splicing them together.
They might accidently create a mutant yeast that takes over the world! ha! I hear what you're saying though, Cheers mate!
Totally agree with you. If you don't like wine flavour (ie. Nelson, Hallertau Blanc, etc.), you probably won't like super expressive GMO thiol yeasts.
@@tylerb6081 There was talk with Scott as to whether in heavy dry hopped and flavoured beers, how much is actually getting tasted in the beer, I guess if people are using NZ Phantasm as well, its hard to tell whats getting to the taste buds. Small steps all add up, but does the cost etc? Cheers!
@@tylerb6081 Thats another thing too we can't get, Phantasm, not illegal just NZ seemed to of skipped us and went straight to the US.. We'll remember this NZ!!!! :)
Great video.
Thanks for the visit
great video! Is there a place I can view these slides?Thanks
I'm still waiting for them all
Are the oils from dry hopping extreaxted from the alcohol? So depending on the ABV, are the oils extracted faster?
The alcohol helps, time scale per alcohol hmmm never really seen a study on that.. Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork thanks for the response. Cheers. Keep your videos coming🍻👍
Just brewed the Sabrotooth NEIPA recipe today! Based on the recent “haze” findings should I just wait until day 7 to put all the dry hops in???
Totally up to you, I would watch the ferment myself, and get them just before it finishes. If its a fast ferment you'd want them in, the 7 day thing I think is fine if using a regular yeast and it takes that 7 days to ferment, but some yeasts are much faster and I think getting the hops in just before it finishes is a good idea, especially if not using a hop bong or the like. Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork thank you! Cheers!
I’ve always dry hoped 3 days before keg or bottling and that’s 13 days in the fermenter. So day 10 for me.
Cheers Jason! Mine was usually earlier than that, usually around day 6 and then kegged around day 10 Cheers!
I just thought it might be fresher dumping them in at the end.never tried dumping them in earlier. Like to see if there is much difference in the taste.
@@jasonburns1407 Mine are finished by then, just go by your ferment. Cheers!
Hi mate, how would you compare Bluestones NEIPA yeast with 1318? Is it a solid substitute?
I've only had the chance to use Bluestone NEIPA once and it was very tasty, I bought another pack thats in the fridge now. I think its great. I havent had them side by side, but I have a london ale III fermenting now and will use the Bluestone one in the next few days so I'm probably better off answering in a few weeks. Right now Id say you should try the Bluestone, at least for the freshness. Never been able to get yeast like this Australia before! Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork thanks mate appreciate you getting back to me. Will give it a go, why not!
are the presentations of the ANHC available?
Not yet as far as I know, hopefully soon!
I think Lallemand yeasts like BRY or Verdant do quite the same thing as GMO yeasts...correct me if i'm wrong!
These new yeasts do things "better" apparently, whether our tastes buds are good enough to notice is another story. Cheers!
Verdant does have an active IRC7 gene but it's not super active like Cosmic Punch or Gazer. Think BRY97 does bio-transform but I've yet to see any studies related to it's performance related to the IRC7 gene. IMO - No one in their right mind is making a modern hazy NEIPA with BRY97. It's all about LA3.
@@tylerb6081 of course, didn't mean that...BRY is my go to for any clean crisp ale,
Verdant is good for hazies, I had good results with Windsor too, but I never really do NEIPAs... just fruity (but bitter) hazies...
time to give Green Greed a rerun for day 5 and day 7 dry hops. haze last time was epic, with a day 5 and day 7 i reckon it would be pure soup haze
Ha! Very possibly lol
10:15 weird using the term knockout for dry hopping are you sure he didn’t mean hopstand?
You would think so, but in his talk, he didnt talk like it was that, so I thought it might be a typo or something, we'll see when the actual talk gets released. Cheers!
Why does maximum haze matter. Shouldn't it be for maximum aroma?
These were talks on hazy beers, other things were discussed, but I'm leaving some of the talk/slides for the ANHC to release since they did me a favour of giving me the slides. Cheers!
That's the real question. I think we're going down the wrong path if brewers are so obsessed with haze and not about aroma and taste.
Does maximising haze maximize hop aroma and flavour? Or are these findings only relevant for beer aesthetics?
There is a ton more information but it's not my place to give it all out, I'm very happy ANHC let me use their slides for what I wanted. The rest can be seen when they release it. Cheers!
Aroma and haze are not related. Haze is from particles suspended in liquid. Aroma is from soluble and insoluble compounds. Coincidentally, suspended yeast, especially those covering hop material particles, can and do interfere with hop utilization.
@@tomekwiraszka7312 exactly, you don't want yeast in these beers, yeast selection helps form the haze but once it's there, you can then get rid of the yeast... Scott uses Biofine in his hazies to help get rid of the yeast.. Cheers!
In my experience lag time affects perma haze the most. I bet the early dry-hop caused lag by killing some of the yeast.
Thats one I haven't heard! but interested! Cheers!
Yeh I've noticed if the proteins drop out of solution before fermentation starts the final beer eventually drops clear. But if I rehydrate yeast so fermentation starts fast, before the drop out, then the final haze is permanent. A large whirlpool addition is also needed so the wort is full of oils. Thats led me to believe perma-haze requires hop oils, proteins in solution and active yeast.
@@indiekiduk Polyphenols and Proteins
The greatest science discovery is new discovery trumps older discoveries…
Science is funny like that….🤣😍😎
That H kills me
I brew 2years and never dryhoped. So, dry hoping should be at 4 degrees??? How yeasts at 7th day can survive this at fermentation??? And if it's better to close yeasts at bottom than wouldn't hopping will be better after the fermentation and at cornelius keg at all? I store beer at 3 degrees at 18l kegs after fermzillas. It seems Easter. Put hops to Cornelius, close it, put beer from fermzillas at 3 degrees and let it dryhop for 2 days, no???
What about do
Not sure why they are talking in terms if time and not gravity points. Surely each ferment is different ... even with all the other factors remaining the same for those tests, wouldn't it have been more beneficial to talk about gravity points and not Day 7??? Haze is surely being affected by the process of fermentation and what the yeast is doing .... that may not be doing 'it' on Day 7???
I get you, I asked the question umm I cant remember who, think it was Scott, but it was Omega yeasts that did the tests he talked about. I did find it weird that, two totally separate tests, unrelated what so ever and both didn't do it as far as I know. I think any ale yeast at the temps they used 20, and they would of had the freshest yeast possible, would be in that last point drop area, if not done lol. All my beers near ferment in the same time, 6-7 days. This is info from two great yeast companies, I'm not sure what else I could do, just sharing info! Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork Not having a crack at you mate, just not sure of the 'science', based around days and not points. Interesting stuff though.
I think does show that the day 1 , day 2 dry hops are at least less effective than a later dry hop, which is opposite to what's been said for years, that's the point I think. I agree the day count instead of gravity is weird, though I must mention also that they were done by a lab technicians, scientists I guess, not a brewer per se at least the Bluestone one was for sure. I don't know if the techs at Omega are brewers or just following orders, but really it doesn't matter. Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork G'day mate .... did a brew yesterday - an Oatcream IIPA. I have decided that instead of a double dry hop, I'm going to chuck them all in just before the end (1.020 - 1.015) and see how that goes. Citra, Mosaic and El Dorado 100g of each. Fingers crossed.
Is there a place I can view these slides?
Soon
Any update on that?
Mr Slug, What vee needz is a greatz reset where you'll own nozthing and be happy and You'z must eatz zee bugs 🐜🐜🐜🐜
Well it’s started here, I’m in blackout lol no power…
If Klaus and his buddies come for my beer, they’re getting something different that we Americans have a lot of
This video has sucked my will to live. Beam me up Scotty. I'm going back to bed.😎👍
hahaha Cheers Finn!
@@HomeBrewNetwork lol😎👍
To summarize: it's all about the yeast. When you select a proper yeast, then you can rely on this analysis.
And polyphenols and proteins and timing:)
Cool. It's fascinating how conservative the brewing community can be sometimes. The old "truths" are falling and that is a good thing 👍
New "truths" are falling too :) Considering early dry hopping is just a few years old. I totally get what you're saying though as long as things aren't just changed for convenience with no regard for small details that make a greater sum in the end. For example people saying that only a short boil is needed because of low DMS these days, but forgetting the other extra things you get from normal/longer boils like flavour etc. The one thing about most of the old stuff is it stood the test of time and works. A lot of the newer methods are a flash in the pan and forgotten in a year or two. Always exciting, always learning, thats why I love brewing. Cheers!
Well well well, what do we have here?
hahaha Cheers!
I've noticed this multiple times, it's true for me 👍
Very interesting, cheers!
You need a white lab coat.
one that ties my arms at the back? lol Cheers!
This is ferociously misleading. You're talking mainly about dry hopping as the source of Haze. But there are a myriad of other factors that contribute to haze.... And we dry hop for aroma and flavor. 😉
All.im doing is reporting the findings of two studies done by two very reputable yeast companies. Studies that shocked Mr Janish who's been studying hops for years. Cheers!
I headed that at boiling beer when you put hops - in the beginning hops are for conservation and at the end for aroma :)) so I suppose system for dryhoping is the same. The later you put hops the fresher the aroma is :)) no? You just put hops at Finnish keg, Wright before you drink it would be most fresh aroma :))
You dont want hops sitting in a bottle or keg, keg can be ok if you're going to drink it fairly fast, but it can get messy and isnt ideal. Hops in a bottle will be nothing but trouble, nucleation points, when you open the bottle it'll foam out everywhere. Cheers and you dont want hops in your glass!
@@HomeBrewNetwork I mean, you can leak it to other keg after 2 days