Concours 14 DRIVESHAFT SERVICE/MAINTENANCE!
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- Опубліковано 1 гру 2021
- A video for showing the maintenance and service of the C14 final driveshaft splines and additional information. Always follow factory service data on any operation especially torque specs.
This will be very useful sir thank you ❤
Thanks for sharing the items on your Concourse 14. In the UK it’s a GTR 1400 but exactly the same bikes. It’s winter here now and I’ll be tackling this job and the valve clearances, your videos are a great help, many thanks.
Thanks for watching. Feel free to reach out if you need any support. Like I said in those videos I do my shim calculations differently so you can use the shim chart in the service manual if you wish. But I definitely recommend the procedure of barring the motor over so each cylinder hits TDC after the intake valves open and close and then looking at the crank position of 1-4 or 2-3. Do a single cylinder at a time measuring instead of bouncing around like the manual says.
@@MotoRestoFL Hi and thanks for taking the time to reply. Regarding the valve clearance checks, I agree with you. It may take a bit longer but it’s the way I’ll go about it. You can’t afford to get it wrong. Kind regards
sweet man, i just bought a New 2022 C14. This was a great visual aid, thanks for sharing!
Very nice demonstration of shaft drive and it's long time maintenance review 👍👍
Excellent tutorial thank you so much 👏👏👍👍
Great video, this is the very job I'm tackling this weekend.. Did the valve clearances last year.... It was fun🤣🤣😮😮😮
Job done and you where right, the carden joint weighs a tonne. No more noisy Shaft knock
Good stuff bruh, Keep on with the keepin' on! ...and THANX!!!!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
What an excellent tutorial on how to do a daunting job and the warning about Kawasaki's Mega Loctite is on point...good lord they really dont want you to work on their stuff! :) And the word you struggle with pronouncing, I have to laugh, not at you, but with you, because I think everyone has words they just wrestle with...Here is how to say molybdenum.....phonetically say it just like this ( Maw Lib Di Num ) Maw, as in Maw, what time is dinner? Lib as in Liberty, Di as in Dinner and Num as in Number. I wont tell about the words I struggle with. :) Keep up the good work and keep on riding!
Oh cool. Thanks. Phonetics are fun! 👍 thanks for watching and commenting
Hello, I just saw your driveshaft service video and thought it was fun and very detailed in your explanation of everything. So I subscribed. I hope I never have to do that service but Thank You for putting it up.
I have a 2011 Concours 1400 ABS that I just bought and the windscreen doesn't work. The fuse is good, I get a click sound when I hit the button, but no go.
Do you have a video about how to test/repair/replace the windscreen motor ?
Thanks in advance.
A.
Beautiful bike! Where did you get the crash bars?
Thanks. Those are the original Canyon Cage bars by MC Enterprises. They are the first batch they ever did. I got in on a group buy in a forum. They went out of business years ago and they’re hard to find. These are modified specifically for this bike.
Hi, Thanks for the content. Very helpful! You mentioned the TPMS sensors when removing the tire and that made me think of a related issue. Wondering if you know if there is a way to disconnect those where the bike will ignore it? I’ve seen the soldering trick with the battery but I’ve added Fobo2 sensors externally and I can be fine with that. Unfortunately, the bike won’t stop alerting me to the internal ones not working. Any suggestions?
I think the only way to do that is remove the sensors and bin them, using a different or replacement valve stem. I don't know which one. There is a way to hit a couple buttons on your display every time you power up the bike to cancel alarms, but I don't remember and it is in your owners manual. I think when the sensors aren't present, that screen is just blank or not there at all but again, not sure. I don't usually have to contend with alarm and warning work-arounds. The batteries on the black TPMS sensors in particular are wicked easy to replace. Takes more time dismounting/mounting the tire. The mothership swapped those out for different ones around 2014 model and supposedly they're harder, on my '12 the black ones they're still working fine after a battery change 3 or 4 years ago. Cheers.
@@MotoRestoFL Thanks. That helps a lot! I a;so have a 12’. I was expecting the soldering deal with these but maybe just a battery replacement for this year. My reg shop mechanic says they don’t do “arts and crafts” when I asked about replacing the batteries. He must have been expecting the 14’ up process as well. I don’t have the room nor strength to do most of my own maintenance unfortunately. Most I’m able to do is put on accessories and such. Checking my manual now and will go back to my mechanic about the battery replacement. Thanks again!!
@@RideAsOne well, one thing you could consider, if you're going to go without the Kawasaki sensors, remove them both and send them to me, I'll put batteries in for you no charge except for shipping and a couple bucks for batteries because it would make great content for this channel. Then at a later time, you could simply put them back in and your bike will recognize them again or so that's how I understand it. If interested, email me motorestofl@gmail.com.
Great video info for the shaft, was just about to do this job always good to see what in there before getting into it, wouldn't be difficult for manufacturers just to add a little bit more lube, suppose its time n dollars at the end of the day. Btw what handle bars is that you have there, 👍
Hello. and how to put this pin with the ball back or will it lock itself??
I don't remember a ball, it's a pin with a spring if you mean the one up front. You just line it up with the hole and press the pin, slip the yolk over and it pops into a recess I assume a counterbore or something and locks itself in. The smaller hole it aligns with is the hole you stick something down into to release the pin during removal.
Wait did I hear you have a trailer hitch? What did you have to do to do that?
I made it custom. Modeled after similar commercially available ones. This is one of my older videos so it’s not that developed but it shows how I made it after the fact. ua-cam.com/video/-WhmycIwhTA/v-deo.html
last summer I replaced the rear wheel on my 1995 kawasaki concours. after I tightened everything I rotated the wheel by hand and noticed It was turning extremely hard. I removed the wheel again to investigate. With the wheel off I tried to turn the gear that in the center of the hub ( on this video it appears at 4:17 , It was hard to turn. Then I took the hub off and tried turn sticking out end of the shaft. It was hard to turn. Can you advice how to fix it? Thank you.
I am not understanding your nomenclature, you mean you turned it first from the splined shaft that articulates with the wheel, I get that but you took off the hub? You mean you were turning the propeller shaft? First off, that's an invalid test. Let's look at turning the splined part. It's a small OD and has very little force that can be applied without leverage. When you turn that spline, you are turning the ring, pinion, propeller shaft, bevel gears and transmission countershaft. That's a lot to turn from a small part like that. It's absolutely going to be difficult to turn. Disregard that. So let's simplify this, when you had the other wheel, when you tightened it, the wheel turned normally, right? Then it's the wheel you put on. There's several things to look at. First, there should be a spacer inside the final drive within that splined area that is part of the axial load mechanism so when you tighten the axle, it won't pinch against that spline and the final drive itself. Is that spacer in there? Second, there is a spacer inside the wheel between the bearings. Did you put in the spacer when you (I assume) installed the bearings in the wheel? Was it a new or used wheel? If there's no spacer in there, absolutely, that'll bind the heck out of it. Possibly damage the bearings in the process. Finally, the wheel may be incorrect. Did you double, triple verify by part number that the wheel is the correct one?
Try installing the wheel, making sure that you have all the spacers, but don't tighten the nut on the axle. Does it spin freely? If so and everything is in there, you have the wrong wheel, bearings, spacers or a combination of all three. Again, turning the final drive from the output side spline is not a valid test. If you want to check the final drive, remove it and turn the input side and see if it is functioning properly. Without the wheel on there, it will most definitely be hard to turn that by hand for reasons cited above.
@@MotoRestoFL Firstof all thank you for replying so quickly. I appreciate it. About the wheel, I should have mentioned it right off : it's the same wheel. i took it to a shop for tire change. I can't swear it's the same wheel, but I no reason to think otherwise.
About turning the gear that appears on your video at 4:17 or turning the end drive shaft ( propeller shaft) sticking out of the tube casing by hand. Maybe I remembered something wrong. I did it all way back in summer. I regret I didn't test the freedom of rotation of that wheel BEFORE I took it off. If after re-installion it turned hard it would be clear , it was re-installed wrong. I will loosen the axle nut as you say, and see if that lets the wheel spin more freely. If it does , would you say there is no problem in the final drive, or in the shaft or where the shaft enters the tranny. And that the problem is solely in how the wheel hub sits on the wheel axle. Thank you again for the hints you gave so far. They helped a lot.
@@joeshow8815 well, this was a narration of still pictures. As such it was impossible for me to actively turn anything since the work wasn’t “filmed.” I just took pictures.
@@joeshow8815 If it turns freely with the axle loose, you have a problem in the spacers or spacing of the wheel. It was probably reinstalled incorrectly or a spacer is missing. There must be a spacer in which the axle passes through every part of the rear wheel. That means, inside the final drive, between the wheel bearings, and anywhere else like near any outer seal (on the brake side for a shaft drive). If find it nearly impossible that you took a wheel off to get a tire changed, put the wheel back on and now your final drive is bound up. Could it be? Sure. Have you checked the gear oil? What also could be messing you up is a brake caliper that is sticking. If you put the wheel back on and then happened to push on the rear brake lever, if the caliper is locked up, it'll drag and cause your condition. But I suspect there is something messed up in the wheel. Did the shop you took it to change out any wheel bearings? Either way, pull the wheel off and check your spacers. The one inside the final drive, reach into the bearings and feel the one between them inside the wheel itself, or any others.
@@MotoRestoFL MotoResto, I just raised the rear wheel I did not loosen the axle nut. I spun the wheel. This time it did not seem to me to be turning as hard. I have another bike just like it. I raised the other one and turned its rear wheel to see if it turned easier. I couldn't really tell. Both rear wheels turned with about same amount of drag. it is strange because in summer time I could easily tell the wheel which I re installed turned harder. Now they seem about even. Beats me. I'll leave it as is and wait till summer. For now I will have to work on another problem. It was extremely hard to start. in summer but once it got going it would run no problem till the tank was empty. Then I let it stand for few months But on alcohol free gas. Recently when it got colder It would not start for the longest time. Finally with extra battery and prolongled pushing it started coughing and spitting and ran. Briefly then stalled again. And again would not start. My guess carbs need cleaning. So that is what I'll be doing. Again, thanks for advice on the rear wheel
Still shots (only) are of limited value for the viewer. Video (ideally with the aid of a pointer, as opposed to a finger) are much more instructive and professional. Your extensive knowledge deserves a better presentation.
I didn't have any video clips of this. I agree. This was done long before videoing for youtube.