Your skill and talent in this hobby of ours is amazing. I find myself coming back to your videos quite often, and I haven't needed to paint any tailhooks yet, but I know where I'll be coming when I need to.
I too would like to see a tutorial on a good way to repair broken pieces. I like that you kept it in the video because it happens to all of us! The way I would have painted the tail hook would have been to primer it a gloss black (Just the actual hook itself that impacts the carrier deck and grabs the wire) then paint it steel, then hairspray, then black, then chip it. I think I would use the graphite in the areas where the linkages are. Your tailhook is going to look really good when it's installed. You are an excellent teacher! Keep up the good work.
The best way for a solid repair is to use a very small drill bit and drill a hole in both pieces at the break. I insert a piece of wire or plastic rod in the holes and glue them back together. It takes a bit of test fitting but gives you a repair thats much stronger than simply butt gluing the pieces together.
Maybe when wrapping the tape which cover the white sections, fold over each of the two ends of the tape (say the last 2 mm) such that these ends don't stick together. This will allow you to remove the tape more easily.
@MMScaleModels Yes please checker board aircraft nose or the vertical tail section or rudder. I worked on A6E-tram birds in the USMC VMA-(AW)-533, They had dark blue & white checkerboard on the rudder. Thank you
Lay both pieces on a flat surface. Get the orientation right so the break is closed. That takes care of alignment along that plane. Apply extra thin cement. Take a pair of broad, flat tweezers (say, 1 cm wide, flat head). While the parts are still on the flat surface keeping them straight in that plane, squeeze the two pieces straight with the tweezers, using the straight edge of the head to align the pieces perfectly straight in that plane. Now you have vertical and horizontal alignment. Leave for the cement to cure.
@@MMScaleModels And like I said, better that you are teaching the skills 👍. When you DO have the tape of the width that the calculation corresponds to though…duh. Some modellers may not be aware that there are tapes sub-1mm and up.
Your skill and talent in this hobby of ours is amazing. I find myself coming back to your videos quite often, and I haven't needed to paint any tailhooks yet, but I know where I'll be coming when I need to.
That's the goal of these tutorials. Having a library of useful techniques to make building our models a little bit easier
I too would like to see a tutorial on a good way to repair broken pieces. I like that you kept it in the video because it happens to all of us! The way I would have painted the tail hook would have been to primer it a gloss black (Just the actual hook itself that impacts the carrier deck and grabs the wire) then paint it steel, then hairspray, then black, then chip it. I think I would use the graphite in the areas where the linkages are. Your tailhook is going to look really good when it's installed. You are an excellent teacher! Keep up the good work.
The best way for a solid repair is to use a very small drill bit and drill a hole in both pieces at the break.
I insert a piece of wire or plastic rod in the holes and glue them back together.
It takes a bit of test fitting but gives you a repair thats much stronger than simply butt gluing the pieces together.
I usually avoid painting light colors over dark colors, hence the gray primer... but it can be done that way too
I have a similar approach but will show that at a later point
Thanks. Good tips here!
You are welcome!
If this were me, the title would have gone from Painting Stripes to How I Fill My Spares Box In One Easy Step. Great recovery!
Haha, well I can't allow myself such liberties If i want to publish any content.
Very useful tips! Look forward to learn how to fix the little issue occured in the video! 👍👍👍
Yup, that's gonna be interesting... probably an overkill also :)
Greetings my friend, that was a great tutorial on a subject you do not hear much about, that for sharing the video, bedt regards from Australia, Les
Thanks for your feedback Les!
I used small pieces of tubing for this once worked great.
Thanks for the tip mate!
Tubing is a great idea. Will have to remember that. Thank you
Maybe when wrapping the tape which cover the white sections, fold over each of the two ends of the tape (say the last 2 mm) such that these ends don't stick together. This will allow you to remove the tape more easily.
If you have a decal for this you can use it to measure the cut size on your tape.
Yeah that's a way too... I haven't seen one of those in a long time though.
General dimensioning and tolerancing.
Simple, isn't it?
How about a tutorialon chequered patterns i.e.P-51 chequer front 🤔
If the opportunity presents itself, why not.
@MMScaleModels
Yes please checker board aircraft nose or the vertical tail section or rudder. I worked on A6E-tram birds in the USMC VMA-(AW)-533, They had dark blue & white checkerboard on the rudder.
Thank you
Yes, I would like to see how you repaired the break. I'm never able to keep the pieces aligned and straight.
thanks for the feedback mate!
Lay both pieces on a flat surface. Get the orientation right so the break is closed. That takes care of alignment along that plane. Apply extra thin cement. Take a pair of broad, flat tweezers (say, 1 cm wide, flat head). While the parts are still on the flat surface keeping them straight in that plane, squeeze the two pieces straight with the tweezers, using the straight edge of the head to align the pieces perfectly straight in that plane. Now you have vertical and horizontal alignment. Leave for the cement to cure.
@davidkendall1614 Thank you, I'll have to give that a try.
I’m lazy…I would use 1.5 mm tape 😂. Wouldn’t make much of a tutorial though. Your approach teaches modelling skills more effectively.
Yeah, well I don't have all the available tape widths so there is that :)
@@MMScaleModels And like I said, better that you are teaching the skills 👍.
When you DO have the tape of the width that the calculation corresponds to though…duh.
Some modellers may not be aware that there are tapes sub-1mm and up.
Un excelente y muy delicado trabajo.el resultado es simplemente realista. Tomare nota de esto para mis modelos. Gracias
Thanks mate 👍