Jon, that was really incredible! I am so glad that you know when to quit and when it is not safe to proceed. I will never find myself in that situation, because I have you to climb in my place. Thank you to Frederic and to Bruno to keep you all safe, Jon!
You displayed remarkable cool and composure in such a situation. You said "I chose to contine" after being unable to place a relaible screw. We all know that in such a situation you had no choice - you had to keep going, but you kept your cool. All you can do is to regard each placement as a portable belay to put the mind in some sort of safe place. But super impressed - that was real class! I recall a Grade V route I did in Scotland (three grades easier than what you were doing, but right at my limit) when, at the top of the ice pillar, my axe created a huge horizontal crack which split the whole thing in half. I really thought in that moment that this was it...but here I am! As you say, not an experience to be repeated... Fantastic videos - the sound of the ice is so accurate! Perfect! Well done. Be safe and enjoy!
That horizontal crack is the biggest fear! When jumping into an icicle, having the protections on the rock is ok, but when placing ice screws on the structure that could collapse... I'm glad nothing happened!
Joder se me han puesto de corbata,algunas veces hay un ángel detrás de estas situaciones.Pura escalada de compromiso.Esa pelea final por buscar un emplazamiento para el piolet que no llega,viendo de lo que cuelga el chupón....uffff Las imágenes espectaculares,uno se imagina allí viendo los escenarios,y las aproximaciones. En fin ,enhorabuena cómo te lo curras,espero que el canal vaya para arriba.Muy buen video
Wow, that is some of the scariest climbing I have ever seen. I think you were lucky to get away with that! That ice looked incredibly fragile and was both carry your weight and you were hitting it!!
Sounds like you ran head-on to where it goes from being “fun” to downright scary! Glad you were able to get to the top and get safe, especially since downclimbing steep ice is harder than climbing up, at least for me. 🙏🏻
Congratulations for the calm in the last meters !!! Climbing is always a risky activity, and it would benefit all of us in the community to increase self-regulation skills. Don't be fooled by our brain's tendency to prioritize what happens now rather than what might happen next. "Now I'm climbing and having fun" tends to win on "Maybe I better go down, I could get in trouble". I have often seen these mechanisms at work, and have ruined a friendship for insisting on going back. Then came a terrible storm, if we had been on the wall I probably wouldn't write these lines now and I would be a corpse. My advice is: study self-regulation. I myself would like to become better, although by profession I know the subject well (I am a behavior therapist).
Thank you! I'm happy you like my videos. This season I tried climbing with Salewa softshell pants. They are designed for ski touring, but their elasticity is great for climbing. They get a bit wet at the knee level, but it's acceptable.
I think the only options were to climb up or down climb. The ice was not good to build an abalakov to rappel, and I was unable to place an ice screw to rappel from it either.
hi jon - i have a question - when you talk with your lovely face to us in the camera - what gear do you use - only i phone or some microfon as well? thanks for help and be safe
Jon, that was really incredible! I am so glad that you know when to quit and when it is not safe to proceed. I will never find myself in that situation, because I have you to climb in my place. Thank you to Frederic and to Bruno to keep you all safe, Jon!
We have some climbs like that here in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado USA...Nice Work 😁
You displayed remarkable cool and composure in such a situation.
You said "I chose to contine" after being unable to place a relaible screw. We all know that in such a situation you had no choice - you had to keep going, but you kept your cool. All you can do is to regard each placement as a portable belay to put the mind in some sort of safe place.
But super impressed - that was real class!
I recall a Grade V route I did in Scotland (three grades easier than what you were doing, but right at my limit) when, at the top of the ice pillar, my axe created a huge horizontal crack which split the whole thing in half. I really thought in that moment that this was it...but here I am!
As you say, not an experience to be repeated...
Fantastic videos - the sound of the ice is so accurate! Perfect!
Well done.
Be safe and enjoy!
That horizontal crack is the biggest fear! When jumping into an icicle, having the protections on the rock is ok, but when placing ice screws on the structure that could collapse...
I'm glad nothing happened!
Joder se me han puesto de corbata,algunas veces hay un ángel detrás de estas situaciones.Pura escalada de compromiso.Esa pelea final por buscar un emplazamiento para el piolet que no llega,viendo de lo que cuelga el chupón....uffff
Las imágenes espectaculares,uno se imagina allí viendo los escenarios,y las aproximaciones.
En fin ,enhorabuena cómo te lo curras,espero que el canal vaya para arriba.Muy buen video
Wow, that is some of the scariest climbing I have ever seen. I think you were lucky to get away with that! That ice looked incredibly fragile and was both carry your weight and you were hitting it!!
Nice job keeping it together at the top. Early season top outs can be scary as hell!
Holy crap bro! That was more frightening than all "The Conjuring" movies put together!
Congratulations, Jon! Great storytelling and editing! Next to the cool climbing of course ;)
I really enjoy your videos.
Sounds like you ran head-on to where it goes from being “fun” to downright scary! Glad you were able to get to the top and get safe, especially since downclimbing steep ice is harder than climbing up, at least for me. 🙏🏻
Yet another great video 😎...scary yes but u survived well done 😆😊 I had a similar experience on Monday Money in Cogne when I ran out of ice screws 😆
Really scary!!! But you where really brave in this situation, strong mind!! Keep going and stay safe, i really enjoy your films💪💪💪😀
No 4x4 for you Jon 😂 love it chains !
Thank you for the videos! You inspire me to never ever try hard mixed routes. :D
I take on the responsibility to publish a motivational video to change your mind :p
Spicy lead brother
freaking terrifying
Congratulations for the calm in the last meters !!! Climbing is always a risky activity, and it would benefit all of us in the community to increase self-regulation skills. Don't be fooled by our brain's tendency to prioritize what happens now rather than what might happen next. "Now I'm climbing and having fun" tends to win on "Maybe I better go down, I could get in trouble". I have often seen these mechanisms at work, and have ruined a friendship for insisting on going back. Then came a terrible storm, if we had been on the wall I probably wouldn't write these lines now and I would be a corpse. My advice is: study self-regulation. I myself would like to become better, although by profession I know the subject well (I am a behavior therapist).
Wise words Luca 👍🏻
My heart was beating watching you 😂 oh my o shit
Jon, thank you for the video. You are a machine!! Best ice climbing on youtube. ! Ps: what pants do you wear in the video? Mammut?
Brown ones
Thank you! I'm happy you like my videos.
This season I tried climbing with Salewa softshell pants. They are designed for ski touring, but their elasticity is great for climbing. They get a bit wet at the knee level, but it's acceptable.
Crazy. Hypothetically... If you had not continued up... What would you say your options would have been?
I think the only options were to climb up or down climb.
The ice was not good to build an abalakov to rappel, and I was unable to place an ice screw to rappel from it either.
Well done. This video could be used to teach. Trust your instincts and stay calm.
What pants are those? Look like they have some crampon protection on the back?
They are a ski touring model from Salewa. They have the standard protection for the skis, but I use a band to fit them tight to the legs
hi jon - i have a question - when you talk with your lovely face to us in the camera - what gear do you use - only i phone or some microfon as well? thanks for help and be safe
When I'm in the mountains, I use the GoPro, but when I record the narration at home, I use the phone with an external clip microphone
Iepa, zara euskaldune?
Horren nabaria al da? 😁
@@jonmurua Bueno.... Egie eran baduzu azento pixket😂😂ni Baztangoa naiz, Nafarrokoa
😎👏👏👏
Why we keep doing this to ourselfs???
😂 such a good question!
holi moli
I laugh whenever you say that something is not very physical, it is just technical!
Haha, I reserve the physical routes for the summer on the granite Chamoniard