Mixed Climbing in Kandersteg, Elementarteilchen
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 лют 2021
- Frederic Manuel & Jon Murua
Elementarteilchen, Breitwangflue, Kandersteg
ED+ M8
10.1.2021
Transcript:
300 metres of ice.
Sustained and overhanging.
This is Breitwangflue!
This sector in Kandersteg offers some of the hardest ice and mixed climbing routes in the Alps.
Flying Circus, Mach 3 or Crack Baby are some of the popular lines here that many people dream with climbing.
Check my channel for the video of Beta Block Super. The magnificent level 7 route I climbed last year in this same sector.
And don't forget to like and subscribe ;)
Breitwangflue is synonym of adventure.
Climbing any route here is a serious endeavour worth being the goal of the season.
I didn't have any goals this season, in fact, I was happy enough to be recovered from my ankle surgery and be able to climb something.
I had trained hard my upper body during the recovery. I did everything I could without using my feet and I learnt to do figure 4s and to pull hard with the arms.
I did a lot of overhanging dry tooling and I felt strong so I thought I could push my limits this season.
I convinced my friend Frédéric to visit Breitwangflue and climb Elementarteilchen.
A delicate mixed route with a crux M8.
It was a cold day, -14°C at the car park.
We took the heavy winter clothing and started the long approach which takes about 2 hours to climb the 1000m of elevation.
The wall is impressive from the bottom. The other climbers look tiny half way through the wall. Just being there watching it makes the adrenaline flow.
The first pitch was easy. Not ideal conditions, but ok. Frederick led with with no problems.
The second pitch felt really hard.
It was long and sustained with brittle ice.
I got really pumped up after this pitch.
I chose to keep going and to connect the second and third pitch in a full rope length pitch.
The rope drag made it hard to progress and I arrived exhausted at the anchor. My lack of fitness was evident.
Frédérick led the mixed M7 smoothly.
Awesome 3D climbing!
Delicate moves using the ice here, the rock there and finding acceptable protections.
I loved this pitch.
Unfortunately, I was so tired that I didn't feel strong enough to lead the crux M8.
Frédéric tried it, but he was also struggling so pretty disappointed, we decided to bail.
That was very sad, but it was obviously too early after the surgery to engage in such a route. At least we enjoyed the M7 pitch which was gorgeous.
Music credits:
Music: Sunset On Terra by HYBRID V is licensed under a Creative Commons License.
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Support by RFM - NCM: bit.ly/2xGHypM
Music: Summer - Bensound
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Support by RFM - NCM: bit.ly/2xGHypM
Music: Slow Motion - Bensound
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• Cjbeards - Fire and Th... - Спорт
Always love sharing your adventures Jon. Inspiring!
Glad you like them!
Again great video and I'm not jealous 😆😎😂 Also like the honesty....ie too tired etc 👍😎
As always, great videos 👍thanks for all the informations
Hi Jon
Wir sind heute auch „Elementarteilchen geklettert. Aber auch nur bis zur M8.
Wir hatten keine Lösung für den Einstieg in diese Seillänge. Übrigens mit Frederic bin ich auch schon geklettert. Wir wohnen sehr nahe beisammen.
Cooles Video.
LG Lukas
We'll need to go back there to finish that pitch! It looked like a really delicate puzzle.
Tschüss!
@@jonmurua
Ja, wir werden diese Route bestimmt noch schaffen. 😊
That was really amazing, Jon! You not at your best is better than anyone else except for maybe an Olympic Athlete! Thank you for sharing another beautiful video and I hope that your surgery is completely healed very soon.
Thanks for your kind words Mitchell 👍🏻
Thanks again, Jon.
Te superas en cada video, una lastima no poder acabar, pero otra vez sera. Ojala poder llegar a tener la mitad del nivel que tienes algun dia.
thanks for this video, now i want to go out as well!
Fantastic video! This weekend I was attending a beginner ice climbing course in Adelboden/Engstligenalp which is right next to Kandersteg, Your videos are a big motivation for the future years. Thank you.
I'm glad you liked it!
See you around Kandersteg next winter ;)
Lo mejor de retirarse a tiempo es poder seguir escalando 🧗🏻♂️
Hi Jon, thanks for the next great video. What happened to your ankle? How long did it take to recover? I am asking because I also had ankle surgery 4 weeks ago and I'm wondering how long it's gonna take to climb again. Thanks
It was the 'ankle ligament reconstruction' surgery, because I was having ankle sprains too often.
I'm planning on publishing a series of videos about the recovery, but long story short:
First month with a cast, I did some upper body workouts.
The second month I wore an ankle support and I started cycling. On the week 7 I started dry tooling (without feet).
The third month I was able to climb with mountain boots. I started jogging on week 12 (not running).
The forth month is when I started ice climbing and I climbed this route on week 14.
I hope you get recovered well!
Hola Jon!! Guapa escalada. Tengo una duda, de que son las presas que usas para entrenar en casa? son caseras? Gracias
Hola, tengo una mezcla de presas comerciales de resina, de madera hechas en casa y de plástico hechas en casa también para los piolets.
Lleva un buen trabajo hacerlas en casa!
Great video as always!
What's your next big goal? Trying North Couloir direct again?
I'm afraid this spring my goal is to recover well, with no alpine objectives.
Let's see if I get in a good shape for the Pilier Central de Freney in summer, or the trilogy of North Faces in autumn.
I hope you get better soon.
Do you plan on uploading full versions of the climbs, fully uncut?
@@peterhorvath4185 No, I wasn't planning to. Would it be useful?
@@jonmurua Yes, I would find it very helpful.
I am still a beginner, and I think we could even learn fromfor example how you fall, place protection etc..
how frederic brought his ice tool down?
He climbed the leash 😅 and then down climbed
I’ve never been to Kandersteg. Is aiding common there?
Hahaha, no, no.
We tend to free all pitches. That use of the sling was a desperate reaction before bailing
@@jonmurua 😎 Glad you saw the joke in it. You’ll bag it next winter for sure. 🤟🏻🤟🏻
Heyy, i watched your video and i would like to ask you if you are an alpine guide, because you're really good!
Thank you Pietro!
I practice alpinisme for pleasure, I'm not a guide, but I like to push my limits 😃
@@jonmurua thank you for your answer!
Nice, but you seem to have a issue with crampons... ;-)
😅😰😭