My suggestion for a door like this should be a 1 hp gearhead if it will fit. Idk looks tight though. But also i always do the spreader bar directly next to sprocket. You want that support as close as possible to the chain. And in some situations which this may call for is adding a spring bracket w/ a bearing to the wall on the door shaft next to it. The other most important of them all thing is how does that door run in manual? It seems like it may be undertensioned. So many ppl just say screw it ill jus throw a beefy motor up there and try to hide the problem but that door needs to balance
The torsion shafts are really long, I wonder if that has anything to do with them flexing so much. The spreader bar could be way farther to the left and it might work better.
I've had this problem but it wasn't quite as complicated as your situation. Machines that twist like this really need the chain tensioner installed in between the sprocket and opener frame. The spring shafts are kinda soft and the opener can flex the shaft and also flex/twist the opener frame.
You may need to slide the bearing plate on the far right end of that shaft much closer to your sprocket along with the chain tensioner. The tensioner installed between the opener and spring shaft will help keep the opener from flexing too. I wonder what brand that door was, I never seen single end stile bottom brackets on something so big.
I have built shelves out of prepunch to get better positions. Used turnbuckles to make tensioners. Changed gearing. Mounted them upside down. And I don't see any reason you can't hook up to the other shaft.
@@SquirrelGlitch Dang brother send me some pictures or video of your next one. Especially what you’re doing with the gearing. I need the secret sauce. Daveadubson@gmail.com
@@jeffanderson6000 The only thing with gearheads is they never have slots on the back plate for adjustment to mount to the wall. At least ones I’ve ever done it’s like they’re made to bolt up to a roll up door.
@affordabledoorgatellc7391 you can get a bracket directly from liftmaster made for putting gearheads on the wall. It has the slots and built in studs to line up with the gearbox. The great thing is pretty much every gearhead operator has the same bolt pattern so it lines with most operators. Except raynor ops but there gearhead comes with 1 every time. Genie sells a bracket too. We stock them on the truck
My suggestion for a door like this should be a 1 hp gearhead if it will fit. Idk looks tight though. But also i always do the spreader bar directly next to sprocket. You want that support as close as possible to the chain. And in some situations which this may call for is adding a spring bracket w/ a bearing to the wall on the door shaft next to it. The other most important of them all thing is how does that door run in manual? It seems like it may be undertensioned. So many ppl just say screw it ill jus throw a beefy motor up there and try to hide the problem but that door needs to balance
@@bossmanz28 All good points stay tuned will see how I got it to work. Spoiler the door was heavy so that did get fixed.
The torsion shafts are really long, I wonder if that has anything to do with them flexing so much. The spreader bar could be way farther to the left and it might work better.
@@TBHD724 It was a job but I managed to get it. What a beast of a door.
I've had this problem but it wasn't quite as complicated as your situation. Machines that twist like this really need the chain tensioner installed in between the sprocket and opener frame. The spring shafts are kinda soft and the opener can flex the shaft and also flex/twist the opener frame.
You may need to slide the bearing plate on the far right end of that shaft much closer to your sprocket along with the chain tensioner. The tensioner installed between the opener and spring shaft will help keep the opener from flexing too. I wonder what brand that door was, I never seen single end stile bottom brackets on something so big.
Two sets of eyes is always helpful, even a rookie
@@joesgaragedoorservice7506 So true.
Just go light curtains. You will also need an expansion board for a liftmaster if you want both eyes to be monitored.
I have built shelves out of prepunch to get better positions. Used turnbuckles to make tensioners. Changed gearing. Mounted them upside down. And I don't see any reason you can't hook up to the other shaft.
@@SquirrelGlitch Dang brother send me some pictures or video of your next one. Especially what you’re doing with the gearing. I need the secret sauce. Daveadubson@gmail.com
Gear head op would be a better option. I’ve had similar issues with certain high lift doors and chain jumping shaft cog.
@@jeffanderson6000 The only thing with gearheads is they never have slots on the back plate for adjustment to mount to the wall. At least ones I’ve ever done it’s like they’re made to bolt up to a roll up door.
@affordabledoorgatellc7391 you can get a bracket directly from liftmaster made for putting gearheads on the wall. It has the slots and built in studs to line up with the gearbox. The great thing is pretty much every gearhead operator has the same bolt pattern so it lines with most operators. Except raynor ops but there gearhead comes with 1 every time. Genie sells a bracket too. We stock them on the truck
What song is this?!
@@jesseclark322 Not sure it was sent to me in a email.