6+ years later and this video is still holding value. Thanks! I have the exact same "bearing" problem with mine. Same model, same vintage, but it was a "barn find" at a yard sale that nobody had ever used; literally...not even once. So basically this thing is brand new. I've used it maybe 4 times and suddenly the auger was moving around like crazy and chattering against the housing. Four uses! Ugh. I assumed bearing, but after watching this video, I'm sure it's just the backing nuts given how it went from working fine to suddenly having crazy play. Thanks again!
I know this is from many years ago, but that info is still useful. I was just given a similar Craftsman- branded blower, and the donor told me "it doesn't throw wet snow very well". Thanks to you, now I have some things to investigate. Cheers!
Thank you for this video. I have a 10530sbe which Is about the same and it stopped throwing snow. I was about to give up on it after a belt change didnt help at all. Tore it down further and sure enough missing the nuts holding the bushing on to the housing! Saved me buying a new unit.
I have the 10530SBE, picked it up free a while back, ran great. Found out they no longer make the keyed auger pulley for it. Wound up splitting the snowblower, removed the pulley (bolt sheared, re-tapped for a larger stainless bolt), used a cutoff wheel to release tension on the flange bearing (was seized good), welded and filed a new “key” in the pulley, assembled with a new flange bearing and custom pulley, and so far so good. Ridiculous that it is a discontinued part now, but to anyone who runs the same issue of a sheared key for the pulley, mig a new “keyway” and it will work. Came back to find your custom weld fix, had that issue now, will fix that while Im at it now too. Seems crap welds and cheap metal are a problem with this blower… another year of service to a free blower would be great though. Feel bad for the guys that actually paid money for these units new though…
Thank you for the video very well done. I need to replace that same part because it did exactly what you described. Now I just need to purchase the part. Do you know how much that part cost and a good place to purchase? Thank you again for taking the time to make this video you are awesome.
mine just broke, working on taking it apart now. what do you recommend if the auger lever broke, buy a new one and upgrade? or have someone try and weld the old piece? Great video, thanks.
I have a husq 1830xlt with only one cross auger turning. Is there a pin connection inside the center gear box or is the shaft sheared off in there? I am about to pull it apart just wondering if I should order parts.
Excellent!~ I haven't made any new videos in a while so I just taped a new one today on Briggs OHV snow engine head gasket replacement... I should have it edited and up on YT soon! Happy new year!
+Dan Small Engine sounds great! This video was super helpful. I welded it up and I think my husky runs better than ever. I subscribed. Happy New Year to you too!!!!!!
Dan I want to remove the auger assy on this same unit and the bearing is stuck on the shaft. I have oiled it wd40 for days and tried hammering it with no luck. Other than cutting it off and replacing it, any ideas. Great video as always.
If you hammer the shaft, it will most likely mushroom over and the bearing will never slide out. I use heat on the bearing to expand it (it also burns the grease and seal up) or I cut into it with a whizzer (4" abrasive disk) and make several slices in the outer bearing then split it with a punch or chisel. I then cut into the inner bearing race and try to cut slices in it WITHOUT cutting into the auger shaft. If you cut a few slices in it , it should break in half when you hit it with a chisel. A new bearing is only about 20 bucks and if you have it this far apart, you may as well replace it.
And the same crack inside the auger pulley as i had on mine! That is a bad construction with center of the pulley made of sintered steel i think. The key is a part of the center.
When I bought the carb it was from the dealer, it says 615 or 515 I'm not sure, but I need up stripping where the main jet goes into the carb, so I figured I just use new jet and new bowl in old carb that came with machine.. I thought it was all the same? I thought my machine was a 10.5 but I could be wrong, I replaced all gaskets. Cleaned both main jet an idle jet (I think) also when I hooked the carb back up I didn't mark what whole the idle handle thing went into so I guessed the middle as there's two on each side. It starts ok but it's up an down I know I gota be getting air somewhere. I just don't know where.
My husky 10527ste had the same problem this year with the auger control, ended up replacing part, I'm not getting real good throwing with it, it keeps surging, I replaced the carb, I cleaned the Jets. Still surging. I'm thinking of just doing away with the snow king all together an retro fitting a Honda gx390 on there, that should get the kind of power I want out of it.
Steve if it's surging, you are most likely still not getting the proper amount of fuel/air to the engine. It's lean. You said you replaced the carburetor (and cleaned the jets before replacing?) What carburetor did you replace yours with ? (640349? maybe, did you swap the main jet for the 10.5hp size?) Make sure you have no intake leaks and use a new gasket. Sometimes the mounting surfaces are a bit warped and they allow air into the intake area and this makes it lean. Does the engine idle smoothly or surge at idle? Is the fuel system free of water?? A new carb will run like shit with water in it. You might also have no valve clearance and this allows some pressure to escape during the compression cycle and can also cause hunting and poor idle. I have seen this often on Tecumseh engines where the block seems to "settle" and the valve's (both or just one valve) doesn't fully close and the engine runs poorly. You should pull the side cover behind the carb and check the valve clearances when the engine is cold (and warm for that matter). Not sure what the spec is off hand but I think it's around .005" or so. Make sure rotate the engine appropriately so the valve is closed when you check. Bottom line is, there should be some clearance between the lifter tappet and the valve end when each valve is closed. For the throwing issue, you should probably replace the Auger belt with an new OEM belt (not an aftermarket belt) and make sure the belt gets pulled in properly when you pull the auger engagement handle. You can compare the new and old belts by holding it in the engine pulley to see if the old belt is worn. If it sits lower than where the new one sits, it's probably worn and also stretched. Those Husky machines are fussy about the auger belt being the proper size. They can be a bitch to get them to engage well if something is slightly off. I have also see a few cases where the main impeller bearing is worn (or was not properly tightened in it's bracket at the factory) so verify the lower pulley has no play in it. It will slip for sure if it's not being held in the proper place. I would not swap the engine out with a Honda. Honda is a great engine no doubt, but you don't need to swap it if you get your Tecumseh to run properly. You will run into all kinds of clearance issue and possibly belt size issues. That particular belt is an odd ball size and you will have a hard time finding a new one that fits after the retrofit. There is no reason the Tecumseh shouldn't work/throw well once you solve the real problems.
Well, due to having like 10 feet of snow in one month I was kinda in a pinch to buy one, I got it for 300. When I put load on this machine it ran mint. But it's up an down. So I bought a carb replacing gaskets, but what I needed was just the jet as mine was stripped on the cup of the carb so. I used new jet old carb.. I'm not home so I can't check serial numbers off carb. But I think it was the one you listed. I get a shit ton of play in my auger, when I hit some almost snow ice it seized I honestly thought I blew it up an seized the engine. But instead it was the play in the auger an some ice stuck behind it? I do give it credit for throwing some what nice but there's no reason as to why I should just stay with the snow king. I knew I was going lean some where ie a leak. I haven't been able to get to it
Hey Dan - I have a Husqvarna 10530SBE... I was able to replace the belts no problem but the return spring for the auger spring brake was broken too. I know where is attached to the idler arm but can not determine where to attach it to the machine. Do you have any idea where it goes? maybe a video or picture of a similar model?
Does anybody know how to remove the bearing from Husqvarna ST 124? I can't get it off with slide hammer or gear pullers. I wanna replace the impeller. Thank you
hi, quick question, did your repair remove the play in the augurs, I have a poulan like this with augur play but, it works ok? I can't figure out why they move a lot compared to other models?
Watch this video - Did you see where the nuts was missing from bearing cover - that would cause the auger play (wobble) - Now check your machine and see if yours are missing.
+Mike Malone Hi Mike, I honestly don't recall what the charge was. In general, we take in snow blowers for a complete service (not adhoc repairs) because they generally need adjustments or repairs in more than one area. If the machine fails because something else brakes and we didn't find it during our service, it looks bad on us so I always go through the entire machine when it's in for service.
I would ask how people are hurting themselves on drift cutters, but I'm not sure I want to know, lol. Sort of reminds me of the people who want to ban hitches on cars and trucks because they bang their shins on them while walking through parking lots.
6+ years later and this video is still holding value. Thanks! I have the exact same "bearing" problem with mine. Same model, same vintage, but it was a "barn find" at a yard sale that nobody had ever used; literally...not even once. So basically this thing is brand new. I've used it maybe 4 times and suddenly the auger was moving around like crazy and chattering against the housing. Four uses! Ugh. I assumed bearing, but after watching this video, I'm sure it's just the backing nuts given how it went from working fine to suddenly having crazy play. Thanks again!
I know this is from many years ago, but that info is still useful. I was just given a similar Craftsman- branded blower, and the donor told me "it doesn't throw wet snow very well". Thanks to you, now I have some things to investigate. Cheers!
Thank you for this video. I have a 10530sbe which Is about the same and it stopped throwing snow. I was about to give up on it after a belt change didnt help at all. Tore it down further and sure enough missing the nuts holding the bushing on to the housing! Saved me buying a new unit.
Glad it helped
I have the 10530SBE, picked it up free a while back, ran great. Found out they no longer make the keyed auger pulley for it. Wound up splitting the snowblower, removed the pulley (bolt sheared, re-tapped for a larger stainless bolt), used a cutoff wheel to release tension on the flange bearing (was seized good), welded and filed a new “key” in the pulley, assembled with a new flange bearing and custom pulley, and so far so good. Ridiculous that it is a discontinued part now, but to anyone who runs the same issue of a sheared key for the pulley, mig a new “keyway” and it will work. Came back to find your custom weld fix, had that issue now, will fix that while Im at it now too. Seems crap welds and cheap metal are a problem with this blower… another year of service to a free blower would be great though. Feel bad for the guys that actually paid money for these units new though…
Dan awesome video. Thanks so much for taking the time.
Thank you for the video very well done. I need to replace that same part because it did exactly what you described. Now I just need to purchase the part. Do you know how much that part cost and a good place to purchase? Thank you again for taking the time to make this video you are awesome.
Mine just snapped. I'm having a hard time finding it on the internet.
And thank you for solving my problem
mine just broke, working on taking it apart now. what do you recommend if the auger lever broke, buy a new one and upgrade? or have someone try and weld the old piece?
Great video, thanks.
I have a husq 1830xlt with only one cross auger turning. Is there a pin connection inside the center gear box or is the shaft sheared off in there? I am about to pull it apart just wondering if I should order parts.
Just broke mine... thanks for your video!
Excellent!~ I haven't made any new videos in a while so I just taped a new one today on Briggs OHV snow engine head gasket replacement... I should have it edited and up on YT soon! Happy new year!
+Dan Small Engine sounds great! This video was super helpful. I welded it up and I think my husky runs better than ever. I subscribed. Happy New Year to you too!!!!!!
hey Dan, thanks for the vid, what size are the nuts you replaced on the bearing holder?
Dan I want to remove the auger assy on this same unit and the bearing is stuck on the shaft. I have oiled it wd40 for days and tried hammering it with no luck. Other than cutting it off and replacing it, any ideas. Great video as always.
If you hammer the shaft, it will most likely mushroom over and the bearing will never slide out. I use heat on the bearing to expand it (it also burns the grease and seal up) or I cut into it with a whizzer (4" abrasive disk) and make several slices in the outer bearing then split it with a punch or chisel. I then cut into the inner bearing race and try to cut slices in it WITHOUT cutting into the auger shaft. If you cut a few slices in it , it should break in half when you hit it with a chisel. A new bearing is only about 20 bucks and if you have it this far apart, you may as well replace it.
And the same crack inside the auger pulley as i had on mine! That is a bad construction with center of the pulley made of sintered steel i think. The key is a part of the center.
When I bought the carb it was from the dealer, it says 615 or 515 I'm not sure, but I need up stripping where the main jet goes into the carb, so I figured I just use new jet and new bowl in old carb that came with machine.. I thought it was all the same? I thought my machine was a 10.5 but I could be wrong, I replaced all gaskets. Cleaned both main jet an idle jet (I think) also when I hooked the carb back up I didn't mark what whole the idle handle thing went into so I guessed the middle as there's two on each side. It starts ok but it's up an down I know I gota be getting air somewhere. I just don't know where.
My husky 10527ste had the same problem this year with the auger control, ended up replacing part, I'm not getting real good throwing with it, it keeps surging, I replaced the carb, I cleaned the Jets. Still surging. I'm thinking of just doing away with the snow king all together an retro fitting a Honda gx390 on there, that should get the kind of power I want out of it.
Steve if it's surging, you are most likely still not getting the proper amount of fuel/air to the engine. It's lean. You said you replaced the carburetor (and cleaned the jets before replacing?) What carburetor did you replace yours with ? (640349? maybe, did you swap the main jet for the 10.5hp size?) Make sure you have no intake leaks and use a new gasket. Sometimes the mounting surfaces are a bit warped and they allow air into the intake area and this makes it lean. Does the engine idle smoothly or surge at idle? Is the fuel system free of water?? A new carb will run like shit with water in it. You might also have no valve clearance and this allows some pressure to escape during the compression cycle and can also cause hunting and poor idle. I have seen this often on Tecumseh engines where the block seems to "settle" and the valve's (both or just one valve) doesn't fully close and the engine runs poorly. You should pull the side cover behind the carb and check the valve clearances when the engine is cold (and warm for that matter). Not sure what the spec is off hand but I think it's around .005" or so. Make sure rotate the engine appropriately so the valve is closed when you check. Bottom line is, there should be some clearance between the lifter tappet and the valve end when each valve is closed. For the throwing issue, you should probably replace the Auger belt with an new OEM belt (not an aftermarket belt) and make sure the belt gets pulled in properly when you pull the auger engagement handle. You can compare the new and old belts by holding it in the engine pulley to see if the old belt is worn. If it sits lower than where the new one sits, it's probably worn and also stretched. Those Husky machines are fussy about the auger belt being the proper size. They can be a bitch to get them to engage well if something is slightly off. I have also see a few cases where the main impeller bearing is worn (or was not properly tightened in it's bracket at the factory) so verify the lower pulley has no play in it. It will slip for sure if it's not being held in the proper place. I would not swap the engine out with a Honda. Honda is a great engine no doubt, but you don't need to swap it if you get your Tecumseh to run properly. You will run into all kinds of clearance issue and possibly belt size issues. That particular belt is an odd ball size and you will have a hard time finding a new one that fits after the retrofit. There is no reason the Tecumseh shouldn't work/throw well once you solve the real problems.
Well, due to having like 10 feet of snow in one month I was kinda in a pinch to buy one, I got it for 300. When I put load on this machine it ran mint. But it's up an down. So I bought a carb replacing gaskets, but what I needed was just the jet as mine was stripped on the cup of the carb so. I used new jet old carb.. I'm not home so I can't check serial numbers off carb. But I think it was the one you listed. I get a shit ton of play in my auger, when I hit some almost snow ice it seized I honestly thought I blew it up an seized the engine. But instead it was the play in the auger an some ice stuck behind it? I do give it credit for throwing some what nice but there's no reason as to why I should just stay with the snow king. I knew I was going lean some where ie a leak. I haven't been able to get to it
The belt Is definitely warn but has held up, but I'm sure that robs throwing power.
Hey Dan - I have a Husqvarna 10530SBE... I was able to replace the belts no problem but the return spring for the auger spring brake was broken too. I know where is attached to the idler arm but can not determine where to attach it to the machine. Do you have any idea where it goes? maybe a video or picture of a similar model?
I have the same issue! I can't figure out where it goes! Did you ever figure yours out?
@@harpoonipa1967 there is a small notch on the frame, left side of the gearbox (opposite of where it attaches to the brake)
Does anybody know how to remove the bearing from Husqvarna ST 124? I can't get it off with slide hammer or gear pullers. I wanna replace the impeller. Thank you
hi, quick question, did your repair remove the play in the augurs, I have a poulan like this with augur play but, it works ok? I can't figure out why they move a lot compared to other models?
Not sure what you mean by "play in the augers"? Can you be more specific?
Watch this video - Did you see where the nuts was missing from bearing cover - that would cause the auger play (wobble) - Now check your machine and see if yours are missing.
What did this repair cost the customer?
+Mike Malone Hi Mike, I honestly don't recall what the charge was. In general, we take in snow blowers for a complete service (not adhoc repairs) because they generally need adjustments or repairs in more than one area. If the machine fails because something else brakes and we didn't find it during our service, it looks bad on us so I always go through the entire machine when it's in for service.
I would ask how people are hurting themselves on drift cutters, but I'm not sure I want to know, lol.
Sort of reminds me of the people who want to ban hitches on cars and trucks because they bang their shins on them while walking through parking lots.
Don’t store it outside.