Thank you for this video! I just got my Ariens 926LE snowblower drive belt changed and the dual auger belt kit installed today. I also did the rubber gas line “fix” zip tied to the stop bolt. I picked this 2006 model up with barely a scratch on it. The rubber fuel line was melted from ethanol gas so it didn’t run when I bought it for $200. I replaced the fuel line and she fired right up. It’s like a new machine now and I’ve got $350 total into it, with today’s upgrades. Can’t wait to see how she chucks snow this winter.
My 2007 926001 throws snow plenty far. Only mods I've done have been to add that black shield to stop water from affecting the traction disc from slipping and installing the dual belt kit. Both made great improvements to eliminating any slippage in either the traction drive or auger drive systems! Some winters it seems like too big of a machine, but this winter I definitely have no complaints about its size, heft, and weight! Definitely a worthy machine when the right weather strikes.
Nice explanation. I really like the pointer about using the rubber band to hold the belts around the pulley until realigning the 2 halves of the machine back together.
I just installed a nut on the stud so it will keep it from throwing the belt. had to take the spring off to get to it also. should of thrown the 1/4" fuel line also and double nut it....damn Ariens. i bought about 3 years ago. set in the shed for a year, used last year and started the problems. still looks like new. my bones get tired at age 69 almost 70. VERY GOOD JOB MICKY!!!
Great upgrade! Just added the dual kit 72600700 to my Ariens 926102-ST11528LE. Ordered from Jacks Small Engines on 2/5, received and installed in on 2/9. Definitely notice an improvement. Thanks Dan and Mikey!
Good informative video. Kudos to Mikey and to you for including him. My guess is this is not his first redeo so to speak. I have a four year old granddaughter Mary who is like my shadow always saying "me help, me can do that". I see it as an opportunity to teach and to bond. I can see her 11 or 12 years from now hanging around some boy friend having trouble with a snow blower or lawn mower---- "I got this; my Poppy showed me how to fix these".
Way to go, Mikey. Stay with it, learn as much as you can and BE CAREFUL. You'll have your own business before long and teach your son about it. Good luck, great video
Some people know this stuff like the back of there hand but you Sir know how to teach it, your awesome and I'm certain your assistant will be a chip off the old block, BTW your an awesome Dad
I couldn't have done this without your video! The rubber band trick was super helpful too! The kicker is that my kit only came with one belt so I had to wait a few more days to finish the job.
THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! I needed the "throwing the drive belt" fix - I had tried to put a shim in under the hand lever so that it didn't go back all the way, but that wasn't a reliable fix. The fuel line + cable tie worked this morning when blowing big ice chunks that jerked the machine around. Also, while I wait for the double-pulley upgrade kit, I've just put some belt dressing on the original single-pulley belt, and tensioned it to the max. It threw better than new. My 926LE 9 hp is 8 years old, very little rust - only problem ever was the starter motor attachment rusting off. Thanks Dan and Mikey.
Yeah, people don't realize how much extra work it is to film your work so it's actually something you can view. I would publish more videos if I had a camera guy to help out!
He's a good kid. He's 15 now... 6'2"! I'm actually glad I have this video of him now. The time goes by so fast with these kids. He's now riding a Husqvarna 250TI in the dirt and driving my truck!
They got overdrive kits? ;p One of the best fixes I did on an old blower was a smaller impeller pulley. I had to really watch for rocks after that, tho, and never leave the chute wide open any more because anything heavy got *launched*. Didn't plug up very easy after that, tho. Should get some PB Catalyst. Works pretty good for rusty parts. Ya, I like Ariens and bought one of the new Orange 22's. I noticed the same thing about those belt guides. Brand new it kept wanting to drag the attachment brake so I had to bend the guide to make it stop. Man, those newer brakes are no joke either, it was loud has hell when it would try to drag the brake. Another fix I did was the plug for the headlight was not properly plugged in. One of the connectors was side by side instead of inserted. Unfortunately this caused a lot of heat and some meltage, but, fortunately not so much that I couldn't fix it with some tweaking, silicone grease, and properly plugging it in. I also never seized the wheels on the axle and am meaning to do that to the impeller if I make the time.
1st, Great job to Michael for his hard work. Do they make a double belt kit for the 920021 model? Bought last year and I just used it 1st time yesterday (18" of heavy wet snow)and already belt needs adjustment (2hrs running). At end of 2hrs snow wasn't throwing higher than 2 feet.
Alan, the Compact 24 has a single belt and it's probably just not adjusted properly. I have fixed several of those and they throw very well if they are set up correctly. You can adjust the idler pulley on the engagement lever to make the belt a little tighter. Loosen the bolt that holds it in place and slide it a bit towards the engine shaft. Don't move it too far or the brake won't disengage before the belt tightens. There is a brake pad way down at the bottom of the lower auger pulley that stops the auger when you release the handle. You have to have some movement of the idler puller lever to allow it to disengage before the belt tightens fully. I have seen many people sock down the belt tight so the brake is still on when the belt is tightened and they fight it out. Not good.
Ariens really throw themselves under the bus. Seems like every model now has an after the fact kit available at owners expence. Meanwhile long time faithful Ariens owners are running away. I tell everyone to snag up the older Ariens and I will go through them and repair anything that needs fixing. My dads Ariens lasted him his life time. I didnt get it but thats ok. I deal in small engines and whenever I get a chance to buy and restore any older units, I am happy to restore and sell them to someone unwilling to pay stupid prices for the new ones that have built in issues. I tell anyone buying a new blower NEVER buy an Ariens from the big box stores. THEY ARE NOT quality and only the ones sold at a dealer is commercial grade and NOT the cheap ones. I know our local Ariens dealer refuses to even work on the big box ones. He WILL take them in on trade and set you up with a commercial grade. I asked him what he does with the big box store ones. He told me he SCRAPS them. Even newer big box store Ariens. I will be truthful. I see no excuse for why they are selling machines that require things like belt guards to prevent water from pouring onto the friction wheel assembly. My dad said STICK TO WHAT WORKS , and has ALWAYS been right about that. If he were alive today, he would scold Ariens. Nice video, shame you even have to make it.
I am surprised that Ariens has had these issues. I have not seen these kinds of problems or design issues on Snapper or some of the other top makes. I have worked on many machines. I have 10hp 30 inch machines and other 8/26, 8/30 etc that use one belt like they all do and they throw everything fine, packed snow etc. Also, no others have that crazy offset of the drive belt when disengaged. They move the drive disc assembly, not the plate and the belt. That was stupid of Ariens. I think the older Ariens are free of these problems and I have questioned other aspects of their new designs. Many other Ariens have done things like increase the impeller gap to 3/8 to 1/2 inch and bottlenecked/squared off the chute base openings. Of course I use impeller kits always anyway.
And those those two bolts holding the two halves of the machine together you stated to torque to about 40 ftlb but the crank pulley bolt only to 30-35 , I'd never tighten the auger box bolts tighter than I tightened my crank pulley bolt , the crank pulley bolt is larger and sees much more vibration , it should prob be torquers to about 45 ftlb and the auger box bolts prob only about 20-25 ftlb. Your gonna have guys snapping the heads of there auger box bolts if you tell them to tighten them to 40 ftlb.
I installed the same kit. The idler pulley is not aligned (centered) with the engine pulley. Any fix for that? I see the same problem at 13:24 in your video.
Hi I have a question about the spring that goes from the chassis to the engine side (rear) pulley lever Do you know where I can get one I lost mine or maybe the size?? Also The front spring that behind the front pulley lever u replace I see that it hook the the lever does the other side just rear up against the chassi?? Thanks
Ever run into an issue with this specific 926LE where the drive doesn't engage? Sometimes it takes a while to kick in..sometimes it doesn''t (even with a brand new drive belt). Great instructional video on this. Curious if this kit would help me with my drive issues.
Scott, I have seen just about every issue with every machine. If that' a 926001, 926002, 926xxx, you may have water on the friction disk or plate, the friction disk could be dirty or have oil on it (pull the lower pan and clean it with carb cleaner or starting fluid) the cable could need adjustment, the friction disk could be worn out (some machines have a hard stop so once it's worn to a certain level, it just won't engage). The 926xxx's also have drive belt alignment issues. You can see in the video the alignment is way off when the drive is not engaged. This can be fixed by adding a spacer to the stop bolt that catches the friction plate assembly. I use a nut or piece of rubber fuel line to take up some of that space. Many of the 926xxx will work fine until you store them for the summer, then the drive belt molds itself into this weird alignment and when you start the engine for the first time, the belt jumps off!
@@dansmallengine9610 Thanks Dan! The molded drive belt thing happened to me to my 926LE this summer when I started it for the first time this fall. I was so confused about what had happened until reading your message!! I can now sleep at night!
Great video, have 1 question. I also did the Quick Turn chute update kit (52609100). I made the mistake of not checking the orientation of the Locking Arm Torsion Spring. Any idea how to reinstall it so it locks correctly. Thanks
Forgot to ask earlier, but is the auger supposed to come to an abrupt stop when you let go of the engagement lever? I notice that the auger on my 926001 will gradually slow down as if there is no braking or clamping force on the auger drive belt. I have inspected everything and do not see anything that appears to be out of order.
+Blaine Bugaski - On the 926xxx series, they use a brake bracket with a pad on the bottom of the auger pulley to stop it. You can tip the machine on it's bucket and remove the belly pan to check the brake. You will see the black metal bracket that operates the brake is about 10" long and has a small pad on one end. When the auger lever is released, a spring pulls this bracket against the auger pulley to stop it. It doesn't stop on a dime but should stop after a few seconds. Check to make sure the return spring on the brake is not broken and make sure the bracket moves freely and does not bind. Sometimes the brackets are bolted too tightly during manufacturing and they don't move properly. Take the belt cover off first to check for obvious problems. If everything appears to be operating as designed, you may have to bend the auger brake bracket a small amount to make it rub against the auger pulley when the lever is released. AGAIN, the manufacturing and assembly of Big Orange machines tends to be inconsistent. Not a shot at Ariens...just pointing out what I have seen many times.
Dan Small Engine It does stop after a few seconds but as I said it just seems to wind down normally until it runs out of energy. There does not seem to be anything causing it to decelerate faster than it would just spinning until it runs out of inertia. I'll open her back up and take a look. I normally just venture inside to clean and oil things. Thanks for the suggestions and I will take another peek soon.
Great video and wish I had seen this years ago. 1332LE model 926103 SN 002491 ...the box store version no diff and aluminum auger gearbox, but the thing has been a beast in NH weather, except replacing the belt every year! Ariens website says their 13 hp kit model 72600800 won't fit mine when I punch in the model and serial. Do you know why? Maybe because it's a box store version and not from a dealer? Thanks!
the dual belt kit only fits one style of machine. It looks like your machine SHOULD take that kit according to the diagram I pulled up. If you have the real wide belt cover with a similar setup as the video, it will probably fit. That kit ( 72600800 ) is for the larger 11-13hp engines and the 72600700 is for the 8, 9, 9.5's.
@@dansmallengine9610 I ended up asking Ariens after thier website said is wasn't compatible. The got back to me to confirm it is (the 72600800 for a 13hp 926xxx). So, I bought it and installed it. Wow what a difference for about the cost of two belts! Again, thanks for the video. Oh and I replaced the shroud with one from a later model, helps prevent meltwater from dripping on the friction disc. Cheers.
Thanks to this video and a few others, installation was made easy . . until I arrived at a problem. The idler and sheave don't align properly. I can see in this video they also don't align properly either. Do you have a fix for this?
This is a common problem I have noticed with each individual machine. Some line up perfectly, some are way off. You pretty much have to align the lower and upper pulleys so they are running parallel to each other (this might require shimming the pulleys on the engine or loosening the motor and moving it slightly as needed. Then adjust (bend or shim) the idler pulley to make it line up with the belts. It doesn't have to be dead nuts centered on the belts because once you start to tighten them, they will run straight as long as you are engaging the pulley evenly onto the back of the belts. I know that sounds odd , but I'm not sure how to explain it.
is there a kit for a 932 as i just cooked a new belt on some slush the this is the first blower that i have ever had that the impeller stopped when i hit some heavy slush. they usually just plug but do not stop spinning.
Hello. I have an Ariens 11528 LE (Model #924121, serial # 014783) Is there a dual belt kit for this machine? My local small engine mechanic says no. Thank you in advance for your help. Merry Christmas!
Thank you...now I have another question: I also have a Honda HSS928 AWD Snowblower. 2016 Model. I noticed that the augers (unlike my Ariens) do not have grease fittings. Is there a way to lubricate the auger/auger shaft or does Honda not require it to be done? I heard you have to take apart the augers and lube the shaft manually.
ragingbullhcwf The Honda auger configuration is a bit different than the other manufacturers in that the shaft that drives the auger only goes part way into the auger iteself (not all the way through it). It also has more clearance between the shaft and center hole so they don't tend to rust together and don't need grease. Some of the newer Ariens machines now use this configuration... probably because it works! The Honda is a nice machine IMO.
Why do you use WD 40 as a lubricant spray , you know that's not what it is right , it was originally designed to be a water displacement spray , doesn't actually have any lubricating or rust penetrating capability. Use PB Blaster or Sea Foam DeepCreep and you'll never regret spending the few extra bucks. I've had situations where only a torch couldve separated what I was trying to bust loose and after letting soak in either of the two stated substances then scrubbing with a wire brush and spraying a gain sometimes repeating this a few times , I've had the parts actually separate as the rust was penetrated and broken down hence no longer me needing torches to free up the stuck parts . Throw that WD in the trash you won't regret it. I've never seen WD on any work cart of any mechanic who makes his living in mechanical work they always use PB Blaster or a lubricant made by the corporation they work for as in Mopar , ac Delco , ford motorcraft they all have their own line of aeresols.
I've had good luck with WD40. I use PB blaster for really rusty stuff but I hate the mess it makes and it smells toxic. For the small stuff, WD works great and I use it all the time. It wipes off easily, doesn't leave a mess and I use it to fog down equipment (my boats) to prevent surface rust. I buy it in gallons because the spray cans never have enough propellant in them to empty the can! Use what works for you.
The snow from my ST824 will only get thrown about 5 feet. I think this kit is supposed to improve the throw distance. I need to get my Ariens number to make sure it matches the one above.
Dave, this kit is ONLY for the 926xxx series machines. Your ST824 is most likely a 924050 or similar. If your blower is only throwing a few feet, you probably just have a loose or worn auger belt. Shut off the engine, take the belt cover off and then hold the auger lever down to engage it and take a look at the belt and pulleys to see if the auger belt is tight. It should be snug against the bottom, top and idler pulleys where they meet. It doesn't need to have 1000 lbs of force holding it against the pulleys, just snug is fine. If it is not, and the belt seems in pretty good condition, you can loosen the idler pulley on the engagement arm and slide the idler pulley closer to the belt and see if this takes up the slack when the auger lever is engaged. You will need 2 1/2" wrenches to loosen the idler pulley and slide it towards the belt. If this doesn't solve the problem, you may have broken shear pins or broken impeller pins and the snow is not being pulled in and throw properly by the auger. The ST824 is one of the better machines Ariens made so one of these problems is most likely the issue. Worst case, the gearbox on the front auger is worn out and it's not spinning the front rakes. Test this by loading the rakes into a snow bank and watch to see if they keep spinning. Both rakes should continue spinning with a load on them. If one spins and one doesn't, check for a broken shear pin in the rake that doesn't spin. Also, if the belt is loose, it could be caused by a worn impeller bearing allowing the bottom pulley to move around freely. You can check this by shutting off the engine and checking to see if the impeller fan/shaft moves up and down at all. You can also notice a worn bearing if the auger rattles when it's being engaged.
Mikey is still around and helping me from time to time. He’s playing lots of baseball and we built a 70’ batting cage during all this covid stuff. I will be creating a video of that process and posting it here for you guys to see at some point. It was more work than I originally anticipated but we are using it often and have others who come to use it. One other thing on Mikey; Since having kids, I learned that what I am interested in and what he might be interested in are often very different. I have been fixing engines, building houses, flying helicopters, boating, skiing, doing plumbing, electrical, lathe work, welding, computers, and just about everything else since I was very young. I did it because I was very interested in it and I was pretty good at learning mechanical things from birth. I also have a very short attention span and I think solving problems keeps your mind engaged and helps you focus. Although Mikey helps out and understands the things I teach him, I can tell there’s just not the same passion for building and fixing things that I had. I try to show Mikey and his twin sister, how to fix things and look at problems one step at a time so they can be self-sufficient as they get older. But if they don’t love it, they won’t take to it. Mikey is very good at sports and really enjoys it so he is more focused on baseball and skiing than anything else. The last thing I want to do is force him to work on mechanical things with me because I like it. He’ll figure out what he’s good at in time. He’s going into 9th grade next year and is a pretty smart, independent kid with a good moral compass. That’s what matters to me.
nope, for what? They were fine. They needed to be sealed to the rims with some bead sealer and inflated properly. 99% of the snowblowers I service have flat (or nearly flat) tires when I get them into my shop. Most folks think the tires are fine because they appear normal. If you check the pressure on a machine that's been sitting all summer, the tires will be low. Inflate to 15-20 psi each as the first thing you do each fall and you won't have problems with your tires coming off the rims and leaking air. Also, if one tire is low, the machine will pull to one side and even worse, the front bucket will wear unevenly! Check the tire pressure as one of the first steps each fall!
Just curious because mine has the wider, rounder tires and I like the idea of the square tread and large blocks. Wondering if they'll fit mine and worth replacing the tires.
I think that burning up belts is the fault of the operator. I've walked behind many snow blowers and have never hurt a belt. One just has to use a their head and slow down. Everyone should be able to hear the engine lugging down and grab a lower gear..
+Robert Davis No doubt the operator needs to regulate how much load is put on the machine. In this case, the poorly designed single belt pulley system and the fact there is no idler pulley adjustment ( auger belt tension) on this machine accelerates the problem with the belt slipping and burning up prematurely.
I'd ream out the idler pulley bracket arm to allow for more adjustment of the belt tension as the belt wears before I ever spent money on this kit that ariens should be giving away for free due to the engineering fault being none but their own not the customers . I have had to replace one auger belt in my life and it was on my old 92 craftsman after 18 years of dependable service , it got so worn the once 1/2" belt was thinner than a 3/8" belt . I never ever run any of my machines any faster than 2nd gear , I go slow and let the machine do it's work. Barrelling through 20" of snow in 6th gear while bogging the engine the whole time is how ignorant operators wear out belts so quickly .
great video but you should of cleaned it all up and when installing the cable use proper wrenches, teach the kid wright. Great to see you teaching the kid, a little hint when using wrenches the handle length should give you the proper torque for the bolts for an average person.
David Marsolick cheap trick is to install paddles. I’ve seen it first hand helps throw snow 2x distance. Here’s a video (it works) ua-cam.com/video/EMAgb3QNEE8/v-deo.html
Hi Dan, thanks for posting this video ! I have a Ariens 1336 PRO & I can't find a kit like this on the web ! Do they make one for my blower ? Model # 924506 ! Thank you Steve
Hi Steve, They do not make a kit like this for your machine. 36" inches is very big (I bet you heard that before..) so running all that power through a single 1/2 inch wide belt to throw 36" worth of snow is a lot of work for 1 belt to handle. My guess is that your machine probably SHOULD have been designed for dual belts but was not because nobody used dual 1/2" belts until recently. ( MTD has dual 3/8" belts on there older machines and those belts last 10-15 years because they split the load and the bucket sizes are smaller... they also don't throw very far so the overall work done is less which leads to longer belt life. ) I have a similar machine to yours with a 28" bucket and single belt that struggles to cut a full path when the snow is heavy.... I think there's a reason Ariens moved to 2 belts on most of there ~8hp and greater machines.. because they needed a more durable method to transfer the power.
+Dan Small Engine Thank you for getting back so fast ! Wish they made that kit for my machine ! Yes I have heard that many times LOL ! My neighbors call it the monster and made fun of me for buying it, then we had 31" of snow in one night . The next morning I did my drive way in 30 minutes while my neighbors took hours ! The blower is a 2002, I just changed original belts and friction disc this year, should have done that last year ! Only things I replaced before this year was the ( spark plug, headlight bulb, electric chute motor ( 3 ) of them and I added a fuel shut off valve ) Still runs and works awesome ! I have a six car driveway and 24 X 10 paved driveway down the side of my garage for my boat to remove snow from , way to much for a small machine or shovel ! Thanks again, Steve
Dan Small Engine Hi Dan ! I'm on Long Island NY ! I run on the Long Island sound & the Great South Bay ! I do run Ct River every Oct with a group of people, around 200 to 250 boats ! The Ct River run is a fundraiser for ( Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation ) we do the run every year in Oct ! Always a great day of boating for a good cause.
It sounds like the belts are too tight OR the brake spring is broken and not pulling the brake in once you let go of the handle. I have noticed sometime people tighten the auger control cable too tight. It should be loose enough to allow the idler pulley to fully disengage and the brake to come on.
@@dansmallengine9610 I watched this video and it inspired me to buy the kit for my new to me 11528LE. I just installed it and have run into the same issue where the auger is constantly spinning. How much slack is supposed to be in the cable ? I am gonna start there
@@jacobshea5333 Don't tighten the auger cable fully tight. This is something I see all the time. With the new kit installed, you should let the brake spring pull the idler pulley back as far as it can go (disengaged) and then adjust your auger cable so when you pull the handle in, it engages the belts and only stretches the cable spring a TINY bit. You don't need massive force on that lower lever to make the belts grab. Also, two other reasons to keep the cable loose: 1. It prevents the cable from snapping at the pot metal "o-ring" at the top and 2. - Having the cable too tight makes the auger lever difficult to hold down and you hand will cramp up after 10 minutes of use!
If you are happy with the way it throws now, then you don't need the kit. Check to see if yours might already have the kit installed. Some dealers installed the kits before they sold them. the 926102 was a later model year than the original 926100 so it might have been installed by the dealer. Simply take off the belt cover and if you have a 2 gang pulley (2 grooves), the kit has already been installed.
Dominick Ragozine No, This is an Ariens kit specifically built for just one model (926xxx). On their Signature series snow blowers, Simplicity uses a single auger belt and their "power boost" technology which is basically a scaled back version of a centrifugal clutch on the engine pulley only. It basically reduces the diameter of the engine pulley under heavy loads to increase torque to the impeller/auger system. This also reduces the speed of the impeller which in turn reduces the distance the snow is thrown. When the snow is heavy, you have probably noticed the reduced throwing distance of your blower under heavy load. This is normal on the big Simplicity snow blowers. I don't care for this "feature" myself and I just sold my brand new 1728 Simplicity after 5 hours of use for this reason and the fact it was a very heavy and cumbersome machine to run. I just didn't care for it. I believe Simplicity added this feature to prevent any operator from overloading the machine. It makes the machine "homeowner proof" meaning, if you run the machine too quickly into snow, the machine will continue to throw snow and not bog/stall essentially allowing anyone to run it without thinking about how much snow they have or how heavy the snow is. I understand the marketing behind it, but I would rather have the impeller always turn at full speed and let the operator decide on what speed to run the wheels. This year with 100 inches of snow in Boston, I needed every inch of throwing distance to get the snow over the massive snow banks. I used a 20 year old JD TRS 28 I had in the shop and it threw quite well.
Dan Small Engine thanks Don I will be looking for a new machine probably an ariens or a toro like nto no your opinion on which is better .I cant shovel snow at my age so I need a good machine.
Are you aware if you can retrofit a Honda GX series engine onto one of these Ariens machines? I have a chance to get an Ariens 1336 for $250 but the Tecumseh engine leaks oil and bogs down in snow. Thanks!
No, I have not done a retrofit on this. In general, you run into many small problems that add up to extra time and more cost. I ONLY retrofit my own machines for liability reasons. Thanks!
I watched it. I'm pointing out that he didn't even have the pride to make his title correct, using bit instead of belt. The author must be an illiterate.
+Ray Duerksen - I'm hoping to give him enough information so he has a working knowledge of the things he might run up against in life... I don't expect him to build his own helicopter, but I want him to be able to make decisions based on a decent understanding of how things work. That said, he's focused on school first and foremost. This work is too hard and I give credit to the guys who grind it out in this business every day for very little money (compared to other careers). I do it because I enjoy it and have been fixing things since I was 5. I get bored when there's nothing broken.
+lightspeed1949 No, This kit ONLY fits Ariens 926xxx machines. There are no other kits for any other Ariens (or other brands) I know of. Your Husky should throw fine if the belt is in good shape and it's being engaged properly. Check this video to make sure your auger idler puller is not broken. ua-cam.com/video/CbdKPRHom1g/v-deo.html
My snow blower is having the same problem as this series of Ariens, when I first got it it only last 3 hours and the belt had to be change, so I fix it by using a belt that was 1/4 inch smaller, got 2 winters out of that, now I am back were I started, I need a better fix? I think this might work with some modification!!!, As long as the drive shaft are the same size. with a different size of belts!! going to give it a try.
great to see a young man interested in something other then video games great job Mikey 😎
Im a young man not intrested in video games my hands are greasy as fuck and im working on a ariens snowblower belt
Thoroughly enjoyed watching Mikey do the work.
That kid looks right at home with tools in his hand. Great job.
Thank you for this video! I just got my Ariens 926LE snowblower drive belt changed and the dual auger belt kit installed today. I also did the rubber gas line “fix” zip tied to the stop bolt. I picked this 2006 model up with barely a scratch on it. The rubber fuel line was melted from ethanol gas so it didn’t run when I bought it for $200. I replaced the fuel line and she fired right up. It’s like a new machine now and I’ve got $350 total into it, with today’s upgrades. Can’t wait to see how she chucks snow this winter.
That's great. When this machine works, it actually throws like a monster! $350 is short money for this powerful machine.
My 2007 926001 throws snow plenty far. Only mods I've done have been to add that black shield to stop water from affecting the traction disc from slipping and installing the dual belt kit. Both made great improvements to eliminating any slippage in either the traction drive or auger drive systems! Some winters it seems like too big of a machine, but this winter I definitely have no complaints about its size, heft, and weight! Definitely a worthy machine when the right weather strikes.
Nice explanation. I really like the pointer about using the rubber band to hold the belts around the pulley until realigning the 2 halves of the machine back together.
I just installed a nut on the stud so it will keep it from throwing the belt. had to take the spring off to get to it also. should of thrown the 1/4" fuel line also and double nut it....damn Ariens. i bought about 3 years ago. set in the shed for a year, used last year and started the problems. still looks like new. my bones get tired at age 69 almost 70. VERY GOOD JOB MICKY!!!
Great upgrade! Just added the dual kit 72600700 to my Ariens 926102-ST11528LE.
Ordered from Jacks Small Engines on 2/5, received and installed in on 2/9. Definitely notice an improvement. Thanks Dan and Mikey!
He's a twin..but his sister doesn't come out to shop much... unless she's looking for chocolate.
Great job, man!Congrats for raising a future successful engineer. I wish you all good luck!
Great video and excellent narration. Mikey makes it look easy.
A Buddy of mine . just picked up a 926 on craigslist in very good condition and is going to put the Kit on his Machine . this Video is Very Helpful
Good informative video. Kudos to Mikey and to you for including him. My guess is this is not his first redeo so to speak. I have a four year old granddaughter Mary who is like my shadow always saying "me help, me can do that". I see it as an opportunity to teach and to bond. I can see her 11 or 12 years from now hanging around some boy friend having trouble with a snow blower or lawn mower---- "I got this; my Poppy showed me how to fix these".
Way to go, Mikey. Stay with it, learn as much as you can and BE CAREFUL. You'll have your own business before long and teach your son about it. Good luck, great video
Some people know this stuff like the back of there hand but you Sir know how to teach it, your awesome and I'm certain your assistant will be a chip off the old block, BTW your an awesome Dad
I couldn't have done this without your video! The rubber band trick was super helpful too! The kicker is that my kit only came with one belt so I had to wait a few more days to finish the job.
Great to hear!
THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! I needed the "throwing the drive belt" fix - I had tried to put a shim in under the hand lever so that it didn't go back all the way, but that wasn't a reliable fix. The fuel line + cable tie worked this morning when blowing big ice chunks that jerked the machine around. Also, while I wait for the double-pulley upgrade kit, I've just put some belt dressing on the original single-pulley belt, and tensioned it to the max. It threw better than new. My 926LE 9 hp is 8 years old, very little rust - only problem ever was the starter motor attachment rusting off. Thanks Dan and Mikey.
Once you install the kit, you'll be thrilled with the performance. Nothing is worse than shoveling :)
Doing this now, this is way helpful thanks man, theres some other guy on here that made a video and his camera work sucks cant see how to do anything
Yeah, people don't realize how much extra work it is to film your work so it's actually something you can view. I would publish more videos if I had a camera guy to help out!
Very helpful, great video. Also you should be very proud of your little helper.
He's a good kid. He's 15 now... 6'2"! I'm actually glad I have this video of him now. The time goes by so fast with these kids. He's now riding a Husqvarna 250TI in the dirt and driving my truck!
Great very clear and concise instructions. Mikey is a great helper!
I like his destruction of the instructions!
They got overdrive kits? ;p
One of the best fixes I did on an old blower was a smaller impeller pulley. I had to really watch for rocks after that, tho, and never leave the chute wide open any more because anything heavy got *launched*. Didn't plug up very easy after that, tho.
Should get some PB Catalyst. Works pretty good for rusty parts.
Ya, I like Ariens and bought one of the new Orange 22's. I noticed the same thing about those belt guides. Brand new it kept wanting to drag the attachment brake so I had to bend the guide to make it stop. Man, those newer brakes are no joke either, it was loud has hell when it would try to drag the brake.
Another fix I did was the plug for the headlight was not properly plugged in. One of the connectors was side by side instead of inserted. Unfortunately this caused a lot of heat and some meltage, but, fortunately not so much that I couldn't fix it with some tweaking, silicone grease, and properly plugging it in.
I also never seized the wheels on the axle and am meaning to do that to the impeller if I make the time.
Thanks for posting this 👍 my brand new snow blower keeps throwing the belt
You the man Mikey. Well done.
for Mikey wearing gloves 5 sizes to big he is doing a good job...
That kid is awesome
You are awesome!!! Had no clue there was a quick stick kit for the crappy shute..
Awesome job Mikey!
Looks like Mikey's off to a great start!
Great Job Mikey
Great video. I'm gonna provide a link for my viewers to see it from my kubota bx/ snow removal playlist and snow blower mod comments section.
Thank you!
Great video I need to get this setup for my machine.
Well done Mikey
Mikey great job and thanks for the video
Awesome helper man wish i had one . Great video
smart to use rubberbands on auger belt while installing
1st, Great job to Michael for his hard work.
Do they make a double belt kit for the 920021 model? Bought last year and I just used it 1st time yesterday (18" of heavy wet snow)and already belt needs adjustment (2hrs running). At end of 2hrs snow wasn't throwing higher than 2 feet.
Alan, the Compact 24 has a single belt and it's probably just not adjusted properly. I have fixed several of those and they throw very well if they are set up correctly. You can adjust the idler pulley on the engagement lever to make the belt a little tighter. Loosen the bolt that holds it in place and slide it a bit towards the engine shaft. Don't move it too far or the brake won't disengage before the belt tightens. There is a brake pad way down at the bottom of the lower auger pulley that stops the auger when you release the handle. You have to have some movement of the idler puller lever to allow it to disengage before the belt tightens fully. I have seen many people sock down the belt tight so the brake is still on when the belt is tightened and they fight it out. Not good.
I like the fuck up on the engineering and then they make you pay for the problems
Good JOB CHAMPION
Get the kid some gloves that fit him! Thanks from.St. Paul Minnesota.
Ariens really throw themselves under the bus. Seems like every model now has an after the fact kit available at owners expence. Meanwhile long time faithful Ariens owners are running away. I tell everyone to snag up the older Ariens and I will go through them and repair anything that needs fixing. My dads Ariens lasted him his life time. I didnt get it but thats ok. I deal in small engines and whenever I get a chance to buy and restore any older units, I am happy to restore and sell them to someone unwilling to pay stupid prices for the new ones that have built in issues. I tell anyone buying a new blower NEVER buy an Ariens from the big box stores. THEY ARE NOT quality and only the ones sold at a dealer is commercial grade and NOT the cheap ones. I know our local Ariens dealer refuses to even work on the big box ones. He WILL take them in on trade and set you up with a commercial grade. I asked him what he does with the big box store ones. He told me he SCRAPS them. Even newer big box store Ariens. I will be truthful. I see no excuse for why they are selling machines that require things like belt guards to prevent water from pouring onto the friction wheel assembly. My dad said STICK TO WHAT WORKS , and has ALWAYS been right about that. If he were alive today, he would scold Ariens. Nice video, shame you even have to make it.
Replace drive belt pulley and bearing on snowblower
Great video. Thanks for posting.
Have same problem will get retro kit many thanks
I am surprised that Ariens has had these issues. I have not seen these kinds of problems or design issues on Snapper or some of the other top makes. I have worked on many machines. I have 10hp 30 inch machines and other 8/26, 8/30 etc that use one belt like they all do and they throw everything fine, packed snow etc. Also, no others have that crazy offset of the drive belt when disengaged. They move the drive disc assembly, not the plate and the belt. That was stupid of Ariens. I think the older Ariens are free of these problems and I have questioned other aspects of their new designs. Many other Ariens have done things like increase the impeller gap to 3/8 to 1/2 inch and bottlenecked/squared off the chute base openings. Of course I use impeller kits always anyway.
And those those two bolts holding the two halves of the machine together you stated to torque to about 40 ftlb but the crank pulley bolt only to 30-35 , I'd never tighten the auger box bolts tighter than I tightened my crank pulley bolt , the crank pulley bolt is larger and sees much more vibration , it should prob be torquers to about 45 ftlb and the auger box bolts prob only about 20-25 ftlb. Your gonna have guys snapping the heads of there auger box bolts if you tell them to tighten them to 40 ftlb.
Love Mikey.. Who needs to read directions anyways.
since you have done a number of these......do the 13hp larger kits have a larger crank pulley? like the SHO? sho is 2.75
thanks
No, It's the same size
The pulley is the same diameter. The twin belts are a different length. That's the only difference in the 9-10hp vs the 11-12.5hp kits.
I installed the same kit. The idler pulley is not aligned (centered) with the engine pulley. Any fix for that? I see the same problem at 13:24 in your video.
h2000l I put a washer on the engine shaft to make it line up. Worked perfectly.
Hi I have a question about the spring that goes from the chassis to the engine side (rear) pulley lever Do you know where I can get one I lost mine or maybe the size??
Also
The front spring that behind the front pulley lever u replace I see that it hook the the lever does the other side just rear up against the chassi?? Thanks
Ever run into an issue with this specific 926LE where the drive doesn't engage? Sometimes it takes a while to kick in..sometimes it doesn''t (even with a brand new drive belt). Great instructional video on this. Curious if this kit would help me with my drive issues.
Scott, I have seen just about every issue with every machine. If that' a 926001, 926002, 926xxx, you may have water on the friction disk or plate, the friction disk could be dirty or have oil on it (pull the lower pan and clean it with carb cleaner or starting fluid) the cable could need adjustment, the friction disk could be worn out (some machines have a hard stop so once it's worn to a certain level, it just won't engage). The 926xxx's also have drive belt alignment issues. You can see in the video the alignment is way off when the drive is not engaged. This can be fixed by adding a spacer to the stop bolt that catches the friction plate assembly. I use a nut or piece of rubber fuel line to take up some of that space. Many of the 926xxx will work fine until you store them for the summer, then the drive belt molds itself into this weird alignment and when you start the engine for the first time, the belt jumps off!
@@dansmallengine9610 Thanks Dan... ordered up friction plate and new belts. Thanks for reply
@@dansmallengine9610 Thanks Dan! The molded drive belt thing happened to me to my 926LE this summer when I started it for the first time this fall. I was so confused about what had happened until reading your message!! I can now sleep at night!
WOW Good Looking KID
Hi Dan. Have you installed 1of these kit on a John Deere? I have a John Deere TRS32 snowblower... I'm looking to do this!
Great video, have 1 question. I also did the Quick Turn chute update kit (52609100). I made the mistake of not checking the orientation of the Locking Arm Torsion Spring. Any idea how to reinstall it so it locks correctly. Thanks
Yay Mikey great job
Forgot to ask earlier, but is the auger supposed to come to an abrupt stop when you let go of the engagement lever? I notice that the auger on my 926001 will gradually slow down as if there is no braking or clamping force on the auger drive belt. I have inspected everything and do not see anything that appears to be out of order.
+Blaine Bugaski - On the 926xxx series, they use a brake bracket with a pad on the bottom of the auger pulley to stop it. You can tip the machine on it's bucket and remove the belly pan to check the brake. You will see the black metal bracket that operates the brake is about 10" long and has a small pad on one end. When the auger lever is released, a spring pulls this bracket against the auger pulley to stop it. It doesn't stop on a dime but should stop after a few seconds. Check to make sure the return spring on the brake is not broken and make sure the bracket moves freely and does not bind. Sometimes the brackets are bolted too tightly during manufacturing and they don't move properly. Take the belt cover off first to check for obvious problems. If everything appears to be operating as designed, you may have to bend the auger brake bracket a small amount to make it rub against the auger pulley when the lever is released. AGAIN, the manufacturing and assembly of Big Orange machines tends to be inconsistent. Not a shot at Ariens...just pointing out what I have seen many times.
Dan Small Engine It does stop after a few seconds but as I said it just seems to wind down normally until it runs out of energy. There does not seem to be anything causing it to decelerate faster than it would just spinning until it runs out of inertia. I'll open her back up and take a look. I normally just venture inside to clean and oil things. Thanks for the suggestions and I will take another peek soon.
Great video and wish I had seen this years ago. 1332LE model 926103 SN 002491 ...the box store version no diff and aluminum auger gearbox, but the thing has been a beast in NH weather, except replacing the belt every year! Ariens website says their 13 hp kit model 72600800 won't fit mine when I punch in the model and serial. Do you know why? Maybe because it's a box store version and not from a dealer? Thanks!
the dual belt kit only fits one style of machine. It looks like your machine SHOULD take that kit according to the diagram I pulled up. If you have the real wide belt cover with a similar setup as the video, it will probably fit. That kit ( 72600800 ) is for the larger 11-13hp engines and the 72600700 is for the 8, 9, 9.5's.
@@dansmallengine9610 I ended up asking Ariens after thier website said is wasn't compatible. The got back to me to confirm it is (the 72600800 for a 13hp 926xxx). So, I bought it and installed it. Wow what a difference for about the cost of two belts! Again, thanks for the video. Oh and I replaced the shroud with one from a later model, helps prevent meltwater from dripping on the friction disc. Cheers.
@@sasqui2001 if you could post a vid on the completed machine, would be helpful
I install this kid today and I’m having issues with the pulley lining up with the belts
Thanks to this video and a few others, installation was made easy . . until I arrived at a problem. The idler and sheave don't align properly. I can see in this video they also don't align properly either. Do you have a fix for this?
This is a common problem I have noticed with each individual machine. Some line up perfectly, some are way off. You pretty much have to align the lower and upper pulleys so they are running parallel to each other (this might require shimming the pulleys on the engine or loosening the motor and moving it slightly as needed. Then adjust (bend or shim) the idler pulley to make it line up with the belts. It doesn't have to be dead nuts centered on the belts because once you start to tighten them, they will run straight as long as you are engaging the pulley evenly onto the back of the belts. I know that sounds odd , but I'm not sure how to explain it.
is there a kit for a 932 as i just cooked a new belt on some slush the this is the first blower that i have ever had that the impeller stopped when i hit some heavy slush. they usually just plug but do not stop spinning.
Hello. I have an Ariens 11528 LE (Model #924121, serial # 014783) Is there a dual belt kit for this machine? My local small engine mechanic says no. Thank you in advance for your help. Merry Christmas!
No there is not a kit for your machine. Only for the 926 series. Sorry.
Thank you...now I have another question: I also have a Honda HSS928 AWD Snowblower. 2016 Model. I noticed that the augers (unlike my Ariens) do not have grease fittings. Is there a way to lubricate the auger/auger shaft or does Honda not require it to be done? I heard you have to take apart the augers and lube the shaft manually.
ragingbullhcwf The Honda auger configuration is a bit different than the other manufacturers in that the shaft that drives the auger only goes part way into the auger iteself (not all the way through it). It also has more clearance between the shaft and center hole so they don't tend to rust together and don't need grease. Some of the newer Ariens machines now use this configuration... probably because it works! The Honda is a nice machine IMO.
What number is the kit for a 11528 ? thank you in advance
I think it's 72600700 . The 72600800 is for 13 hp machines I'm pretty sure.
Hi I have a st 1132 ariens is it possible to change to a 2 belt?
will this also work with the 92001?
Why do you use WD 40 as a lubricant spray , you know that's not what it is right , it was originally designed to be a water displacement spray , doesn't actually have any lubricating or rust penetrating capability. Use PB Blaster or Sea Foam DeepCreep and you'll never regret spending the few extra bucks. I've had situations where only a torch couldve separated what I was trying to bust loose and after letting soak in either of the two stated substances then scrubbing with a wire brush and spraying a gain sometimes repeating this a few times , I've had the parts actually separate as the rust was penetrated and broken down hence no longer me needing torches to free up the stuck parts . Throw that WD in the trash you won't regret it. I've never seen WD on any work cart of any mechanic who makes his living in mechanical work they always use PB Blaster or a lubricant made by the corporation they work for as in Mopar , ac Delco , ford motorcraft they all have their own line of aeresols.
I've had good luck with WD40. I use PB blaster for really rusty stuff but I hate the mess it makes and it smells toxic. For the small stuff, WD works great and I use it all the time. It wipes off easily, doesn't leave a mess and I use it to fog down equipment (my boats) to prevent surface rust. I buy it in gallons because the spray cans never have enough propellant in them to empty the can! Use what works for you.
where do you find the mods for each model?? I'd like to fix my 926101.
what tires are those?
The snow from my ST824 will only get thrown about 5 feet. I think this kit is supposed to improve the throw distance. I need to get my Ariens number to make sure it matches the one above.
Dave, this kit is ONLY for the 926xxx series machines. Your ST824 is most likely a 924050 or similar. If your blower is only throwing a few feet, you probably just have a loose or worn auger belt. Shut off the engine, take the belt cover off and then hold the auger lever down to engage it and take a look at the belt and pulleys to see if the auger belt is tight. It should be snug against the bottom, top and idler pulleys where they meet. It doesn't need to have 1000 lbs of force holding it against the pulleys, just snug is fine. If it is not, and the belt seems in pretty good condition, you can loosen the idler pulley on the engagement arm and slide the idler pulley closer to the belt and see if this takes up the slack when the auger lever is engaged. You will need 2 1/2" wrenches to loosen the idler pulley and slide it towards the belt. If this doesn't solve the problem, you may have broken shear pins or broken impeller pins and the snow is not being pulled in and throw properly by the auger. The ST824 is one of the better machines Ariens made so one of these problems is most likely the issue. Worst case, the gearbox on the front auger is worn out and it's not spinning the front rakes. Test this by loading the rakes into a snow bank and watch to see if they keep spinning. Both rakes should continue spinning with a load on them. If one spins and one doesn't, check for a broken shear pin in the rake that doesn't spin. Also, if the belt is loose, it could be caused by a worn impeller bearing allowing the bottom pulley to move around freely. You can check this by shutting off the engine and checking to see if the impeller fan/shaft moves up and down at all. You can also notice a worn bearing if the auger rattles when it's being engaged.
what happened to the young kid in 2020 ?
Mikey is still around and helping me from time to time. He’s playing lots of baseball and we built a 70’ batting cage during all this covid stuff. I will be creating a video of that process and posting it here for you guys to see at some point. It was more work than I originally anticipated but we are using it often and have others who come to use it. One other thing on Mikey; Since having kids, I learned that what I am interested in and what he might be interested in are often very different. I have been fixing engines, building houses, flying helicopters, boating, skiing, doing plumbing, electrical, lathe work, welding, computers, and just about everything else since I was very young. I did it because I was very interested in it and I was pretty good at learning mechanical things from birth. I also have a very short attention span and I think solving problems keeps your mind engaged and helps you focus. Although Mikey helps out and understands the things I teach him, I can tell there’s just not the same passion for building and fixing things that I had. I try to show Mikey and his twin sister, how to fix things and look at problems one step at a time so they can be self-sufficient as they get older. But if they don’t love it, they won’t take to it. Mikey is very good at sports and really enjoys it so he is more focused on baseball and skiing than anything else. The last thing I want to do is force him to work on mechanical things with me because I like it. He’ll figure out what he’s good at in time. He’s going into 9th grade next year and is a pretty smart, independent kid with a good moral compass. That’s what matters to me.
@@dansmallengine9610 You are so right in your comments.As they have said " You can lead a horse to water ******"
Mike should wear safety glasses next time, love the video though.
Did you upgrade the wheels and/or tires on this blower?
nope, for what? They were fine. They needed to be sealed to the rims with some bead sealer and inflated properly. 99% of the snowblowers I service have flat (or nearly flat) tires when I get them into my shop. Most folks think the tires are fine because they appear normal. If you check the pressure on a machine that's been sitting all summer, the tires will be low. Inflate to 15-20 psi each as the first thing you do each fall and you won't have problems with your tires coming off the rims and leaking air. Also, if one tire is low, the machine will pull to one side and even worse, the front bucket will wear unevenly! Check the tire pressure as one of the first steps each fall!
Just curious because mine has the wider, rounder tires and I like the idea of the square tread and large blocks. Wondering if they'll fit mine and worth replacing the tires.
I wouldn't bother. Both styles work fine.
Were these kits used on other brand blowers?
no, this kit only fits the Ariens 926100's, 101's and 102's I believe. Each manufacturer builds there own machines and each is very different.
I think that burning up belts is the fault of the operator. I've walked behind many snow blowers and have never hurt a belt. One just has to use a their head and slow down. Everyone should be able to hear the engine lugging down and grab a lower gear..
+Robert Davis No doubt the operator needs to regulate how much load is put on the machine. In this case, the poorly designed single belt pulley system and the fact there is no idler pulley adjustment ( auger belt tension) on this machine accelerates the problem with the belt slipping and burning up prematurely.
I'd ream out the idler pulley bracket arm to allow for more adjustment of the belt tension as the belt wears before I ever spent money on this kit that ariens should be giving away for free due to the engineering fault being none but their own not the customers . I have had to replace one auger belt in my life and it was on my old 92 craftsman after 18 years of dependable service , it got so worn the once 1/2" belt was thinner than a 3/8" belt . I never ever run any of my machines any faster than 2nd gear , I go slow and let the machine do it's work. Barrelling through 20" of snow in 6th gear while bogging the engine the whole time is how ignorant operators wear out belts so quickly .
great video but you should of cleaned it all up and when installing the cable use proper wrenches, teach the kid wright. Great to see you teaching the kid, a little hint when using wrenches the handle length should give you the proper torque for the bolts for an average person.
Teach the kid wright 😂
Is there a kit for a Ariens ST1028 model #924086 serial#002235
They only make this for the st926 ..i have a st724 that is not throwing snow as it should any tips
David Marsolick cheap trick is to install paddles. I’ve seen it first hand helps throw snow 2x distance. Here’s a video (it works) ua-cam.com/video/EMAgb3QNEE8/v-deo.html
Believe it or not,I know a lot of grown men that couldn't do this, teaching them or not.
Hi Dan, thanks for posting this video ! I have a Ariens 1336 PRO & I can't find a kit like this on the web ! Do they make one for my blower ? Model # 924506 ! Thank you Steve
Hi Steve, They do not make a kit like this for your machine. 36" inches is very big (I bet you heard that before..) so running all that power through a single 1/2 inch wide belt to throw 36" worth of snow is a lot of work for 1 belt to handle. My guess is that your machine probably SHOULD have been designed for dual belts but was not because nobody used dual 1/2" belts until recently. ( MTD has dual 3/8" belts on there older machines and those belts last 10-15 years because they split the load and the bucket sizes are smaller... they also don't throw very far so the overall work done is less which leads to longer belt life. ) I have a similar machine to yours with a 28" bucket and single belt that struggles to cut a full path when the snow is heavy.... I think there's a reason Ariens moved to 2 belts on most of there ~8hp and greater machines.. because they needed a more durable method to transfer the power.
+Dan Small Engine Thank you for getting back so fast ! Wish they made that kit for my machine ! Yes I have heard that many times LOL ! My neighbors call it the monster and made fun of me for buying it, then we had 31" of snow in one night . The next morning I did my drive way in 30 minutes while my neighbors took hours ! The blower is a 2002, I just changed original belts and friction disc this year, should have done that last year ! Only things I replaced before this year was the ( spark plug, headlight bulb, electric chute motor ( 3 ) of them and I added a fuel shut off valve ) Still runs and works awesome ! I have a six car driveway and 24 X 10 paved driveway down the side of my garage for my boat to remove snow from , way to much for a small machine or shovel ! Thanks again, Steve
Excellent. The machines keep getting more expensive and cheaper in quality... I would hang on to it and run it forever.
Steve Superboat Steve, are you running a boat in New England?
Dan Small Engine Hi Dan ! I'm on Long Island NY ! I run on the Long Island sound & the Great South Bay ! I do run Ct River every Oct with a group of people, around 200 to 250 boats ! The Ct River run is a fundraiser for ( Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation ) we do the run every year in Oct ! Always a great day of boating for a good cause.
I just did this upgrade, my auger is spinning at all times. I've adjusted the cable, and the pulley. Do you have any ideas?
It sounds like the belts are too tight OR the brake spring is broken and not pulling the brake in once you let go of the handle. I have noticed sometime people tighten the auger control cable too tight. It should be loose enough to allow the idler pulley to fully disengage and the brake to come on.
@@dansmallengine9610 I watched this video and it inspired me to buy the kit for my new to me 11528LE. I just installed it and have run into the same issue where the auger is constantly spinning. How much slack is supposed to be in the cable ? I am gonna start there
@@jacobshea5333 Don't tighten the auger cable fully tight. This is something I see all the time. With the new kit installed, you should let the brake spring pull the idler pulley back as far as it can go (disengaged) and then adjust your auger cable so when you pull the handle in, it engages the belts and only stretches the cable spring a TINY bit. You don't need massive force on that lower lever to make the belts grab. Also, two other reasons to keep the cable loose: 1. It prevents the cable from snapping at the pot metal "o-ring" at the top and 2. - Having the cable too tight makes the auger lever difficult to hold down and you hand will cramp up after 10 minutes of use!
Hello
Do I need this kit
I have Ariens 28 inch
926102 for many years
With no problems
If you are happy with the way it throws now, then you don't need the kit. Check to see if yours might already have the kit installed. Some dealers installed the kits before they sold them. the 926102 was a later model year than the original 926100 so it might have been installed by the dealer. Simply take off the belt cover and if you have a 2 gang pulley (2 grooves), the kit has already been installed.
You recommend that kit for the Ariens 11528
if the model number is 926100, 926xxx
What about 926002? Thank you in advance
Is this kit available for 924XXX blowers?
nope
wowwww young boy
can I use this kit on my 24'' 10.5hp 2005 snowblower
brand is simplicity
Dominick Ragozine No, This is an Ariens kit specifically built for just one model (926xxx). On their Signature series snow blowers, Simplicity uses a single auger belt and their "power boost" technology which is basically a scaled back version of a centrifugal clutch on the engine pulley only. It basically reduces the diameter of the engine pulley under heavy loads to increase torque to the impeller/auger system. This also reduces the speed of the impeller which in turn reduces the distance the snow is thrown. When the snow is heavy, you have probably noticed the reduced throwing distance of your blower under heavy load. This is normal on the big Simplicity snow blowers. I don't care for this "feature" myself and I just sold my brand new 1728 Simplicity after 5 hours of use for this reason and the fact it was a very heavy and cumbersome machine to run. I just didn't care for it. I believe Simplicity added this feature to prevent any operator from overloading the machine. It makes the machine "homeowner proof" meaning, if you run the machine too quickly into snow, the machine will continue to throw snow and not bog/stall essentially allowing anyone to run it without thinking about how much snow they have or how heavy the snow is. I understand the marketing behind it, but I would rather have the impeller always turn at full speed and let the operator decide on what speed to run the wheels. This year with 100 inches of snow in Boston, I needed every inch of throwing distance to get the snow over the massive snow banks. I used a 20 year old JD TRS 28 I had in the shop and it threw quite well.
Dan Small Engine thanks Don I will be looking for a new machine probably an ariens or a toro like nto no your opinion on which is better .I cant shovel snow at my age so I need a good machine.
does Ariens have a that kit for a st824
Nope - you shouldn't need it! That's a decent machine.
We're can I buy that kit for a 926102
Ariens or Jacks Small Engine. It's called " Ariens 72600700 ( or 72600800 for 13hp engines ) Dual Attachment Belt Kit ". It's about $60.00.
You have your drift cutters on the wrong sides....
I didn't notice that. (it's not my machine) thanks!
Are you aware if you can retrofit a Honda GX series engine onto one of these Ariens machines? I have a chance to get an Ariens 1336 for $250 but the Tecumseh engine leaks oil and bogs down in snow. Thanks!
No, I have not done a retrofit on this. In general, you run into many small problems that add up to extra time and more cost. I ONLY retrofit my own machines for liability reasons. Thanks!
Ariens used to make good machines, they went box store and quality went to crap.
I had better luck going to a real dealer and buying a pro model. But you are right, they are trying to please the junk stores.
What is a double bit kit? (Your title?)
WATCH THE VIDEO!!!
I watched it. I'm pointing out that he didn't even have the pride to make his title correct, using bit instead of belt. The author must be an illiterate.
CHILD LABOUR, haha just kidding, nice to see a father pass along his knowledge to his son.
+Ray Duerksen - I'm hoping to give him enough information so he has a working knowledge of the things he might run up against in life... I don't expect him to build his own helicopter, but I want him to be able to make decisions based on a decent understanding of how things work. That said, he's focused on school first and foremost. This work is too hard and I give credit to the guys who grind it out in this business every day for very little money (compared to other careers). I do it because I enjoy it and have been fixing things since I was 5. I get bored when there's nothing broken.
slave labour mickey LOL good times with the kid great
Z
THE KITS SHOULD BE FREE, FACTORY UPDATE!!! ARIENS WANTS YOU TO PAY FOR THEIR ENGINEERING SCREW UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WON'T BY ARIENS, EVER.
At least they supply fixes for decent prices.
I dont know about the new ones but im running a 1979 arien 924 snowblower, runs solid still.
would this same kit work on a a husqvarna 1830 EXT?
+lightspeed1949 No, This kit ONLY fits Ariens 926xxx machines. There are no other kits for any other Ariens (or other brands) I know of. Your Husky should throw fine if the belt is in good shape and it's being engaged properly. Check this video to make sure your auger idler puller is not broken. ua-cam.com/video/CbdKPRHom1g/v-deo.html
My snow blower is having the same problem as this series of Ariens, when I first got it it only last 3 hours and the belt had to be change, so I fix it by using a belt that was 1/4 inch smaller, got 2 winters out of that, now I am back were I started, I need a better fix? I think this might work with some modification!!!, As long as the drive shaft are the same size. with a different size of belts!! going to give it a try.
+lightspeed1949 No kit for the husky. It should throw fine if the belt is correct.