Future-proof drawer frame construction
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- Опубліковано 15 бер 2021
- Having fixed many antiques, Tom McLaughlin constructs the Shaker-style dresser drawer runners in a way that will be durable but also repairable, should the need arise.
Sponsored by Lee Valley Lumber provided by Goose Bay
You can get the full-size plans for this project here: bit.ly/3bSmaAs
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There is something about Tom that makes me wanna build something. He's an exelent educator, very knowlegeable, sincere and fun to watch.
Thanks Cristofano, kind of you to say and it means a lot to me.
It takes a true artist to not only possess knowledge, but to convey it to students with such ease and comfort. I think I may just continuously loop Tom for my form of mediation. Superb.
Hey thank you so much Brian, that means a lot to me. By the way, I have had students in classes who were apparently using the sound of my voice for very deep meditation, with their chin on their chest 😎. Thanks again!👍
Always a pleasure to watch Tom work. Teaming up Tom and FineWoodworking, can’t think of a better pair. I look forward to every episode.
Thank you Rick, we have a lot of fun along the way too. Fine Woodworking is really great to work with!
Always enjoy watching Tom’s methods, he does an excellent job of explaining not only how to do it, but why. One of the best to learn from.
Thank you so much!
First let me say that it is a joy to watch a real furniture craftsman; One who does not use plywood, biscuits and pocket screws. Also, one who appreciates that the design of solid wood furniture must always accommodate seasonal wood movement. That having been said, I have two comments:
First: If you watch furniture restoration videos (i.e. Thomas Johnson Furniture Restoration) most of the non-veneer repairs seem to be caused by designs that did not accommodate wood movement. Your design, therefor, is far less likely to need repair at some future date.
Second: I always glue in the back drawer dividers. It makes the case far stronger and it provides a horizontal nailing surface for appropriately sized horizontal back planks. If the back planking is drawer sized, it need only be 3/8 thick and can be shiplapped at each drawer divider to account for wood movement.
Beautiful work Tom! Thank you for sharing!
An absolute pleasure to watch and listen to this Tom, thanks.
Thank you so much!! 👍
Outstanding craftsmanship!!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Very nice! Thank you for sharing!!
Brilliant take on web frames!
Wow what a great video you do Tom, probably one of the best I’ve ever seen, great instruction.
Lots of great pointers!
Thanks Clark! 👍
Love the videos. Sick to death of the Liberty Mutual interruptions.
thanks
I have a four chests of drawers and a dresser on my projects list in the next year. I'm an amateur and am replacing my master bedroom furniture and my guest bedroom furniture (one full size chest of drawers and a dresser for the master, one smaller chest of drawers and two "mini" chests of drawers that are only bed high and act as night tables on either side of the guest bed). This video is so valuable to me I feel like I should pay you for it. Before this the internal construction of the chest was a mystery to me and I was going to have to wing it or buy plans, and I never buy plans because I haven't the patience to read them and they never explain the intricacies anyway. You give me confidence that I can build something that will last, though I hate any sort of mechanical fastener. Then again, I am going to build them out of white oak, so I do want them to be heirlooms that may require repair some day many years from now.
What material do you recommend for runners?
You should be fine with white oak. Tom is using hard maple here.
Thanks Psi! I recommend any durable hardwood, for this chest I used hard maple for both the interior runners and the hardwood strip laminated to the bottom edge of all the drawer sides...which you'll see better in the next video covering making the drawers. Also, if you are interested in making this chest the full size drawings are available through a link in the description. Thanks again.
Nice, nice, nice
Thank you!!! 👍
So the thought I had when he was talking about seasonal expansion and contraction was that large, main propulsion, diesel engines, grow and shrink with heat and the General Motors EMD engines have the fwd footing bolts only torqued to 75 ft./lbs. (there's a story there, but this is a short post) because you don't want the engine to "grow" into the gearbox. I know, unrelated, but you know, related in a way.
Wow, that’s pretty wild to think about - giant Diesel engines expanding and contracting, which shares similar concerns in a way as you say. Thanks 😎
Did you give any thought to using hide glue instead of white/yellow glue? Your design allows for future repairs and hide glue would also give a future repair person a chance to take things apart for some kind of repair.
Hi Tom, love these videos. are this screws going into slotted hold on the runner?
Thanks Michael, I’m glad your enjoying them! I’m countersinking the screws in to the runner and tightening them down. They are only about six inches apart so no need for slotting in this case. If the case moves slightly over that six inches with seasonal changes in humidity, it’s shared by both screws and no problem at all. In fact, you would be safe to even apply glue between the screws if you wanted to given the short distance. Thanks again 👍
I like watching this for a reason I don’t know.
You don't need dovetails anywhere on this project. They're merely decorative. Even for drawers, modern adhesives make any edge grain to edge grain joint way stronger than it needs to be.
That’s a nice idea in theory 😎
@@EpicWoodworking Show me the drawer put together with box joints that has fallen apart.
@@Heraclitean Dovetails get easier the more you practice. You'll get it. Until then, maybe buy your furniture from Ikea if you're not into craftsmanship
@@wakamiwailer Dovetails = craftsmanship is the dumbest thing you could possibly believe. I can do them just fine. I usually don't because they're pointless.
@@Heraclitean then why even bother with box joints, if you can screw and nail everything together? :)
This is really nice. One question though, if you are screwing the runners in how are you allowing for wood movement on the runner compared to the sides? Or are the screws in elongated holes?
I’m countersinking the screws in to the runner and tightening them down. They are only about six inches apart so no need for slotting in this case. If the case moves slightly over that six inches with seasonal changes in humidity, it’s shared by both screws and no problem at all. In fact, you would be safe to even apply glue between the screws if you wanted to given the short distance...as I used to do all the time with never any issues. It’s just not wide enough crossgrain to cause a problem like a crack in the side. Hope that makes sense, Thanks! 👍
@@EpicWoodworking That makes sense. Thank you very much for getting back to me, highly appreciated
I noticed that while cutting tenons, you trimmed on the table saw in two passes. Was that to make sure the offcuts had enough clearance to avoid kickback?
Yup!
Yes, its a small form of potential kickback, but avoided by making it in two passes. Thanks
Full size plan link says not available
What r the odds the furniture repairman knows the back runner isn't glues in place 😂😂
Good point! 😎 It would likely be discovered since in repairing the interior of a chest like this, the back is most often removed for easier access (this chest will have the back screwed on as you’ll see in the last episode). It should then be discovered the back dividers aren’t glued in and can be removed...and they actually have to be removed to slide out the dust partitions (also in the last episode), so the drawer runners can be removed. Thank you!👍
@@EpicWoodworking Amazing chest, very inspiring work 🙌👍
Left handed bandsaw?
I didn’t notice that until I saw your comment. How odd. Ideally you would have a righty and a lefty in your shop. You’d never have to flip your workpiece to complete a cut!
Yes, it's an older Inca 10" bandsaw. It's funny how right or left hand never mattered that much to me. But I do also have a Felder 510 that is a "right hand" so I'm covered if there is ever a situation it is needed. Thanks for watching!