How to mill parts for perfect drawers
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- If the drawer parts don't fit properly, it doesn't matter how perfect your dovetails look.
Sponsored by Lee Valley
Lumber provided by Goose Bay
You can get the full-size plans for this project here: www.epicwoodwo...
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This was a pleasure to watch. It was like being there in person. Thanks.
Thanks Doug!
Damn nice demonstration on how you build drawers.
Thank you Matt, glad you enjoyed it!
Always a pleasure to listen to you and watch you work 🔨🔨
A great demo of building dovetail drawers. Thank you for this video
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
My pleasure!
I’ve worked in a bunch of mansions with my job,seen a lot of 18th and 19th century furniture ..the thing I noticed the dovetails look like they are cut by eye and aren’t the same size and are gappy.. doesn’t take away from the piece they look cool.. almost like they were looking for production.. thanks Tom for the tips, I love adding the maple that’s a great idea..👍😊
I must have these very expensive sophisticated micro spacers! Where can one get them?
Top secret source!! :)
nice work
Tom, instead of the green / white tape method, why would you not use a hand plane and a shooting board?
Great question Greg. You could use a shooting board of course, but I prefer to get the cut with the stop on the table saw because it's faster, you don't need that fine a surface on the ends since they get planed slightly to "piston fit" the opening later, and since you want the drawer back the same length at the front, the back is quickly cut at the same stop position as the front. Hope that makes sense, Thanks!
Great job. I've been building furniture for years, yet I'm still learning new tricks and techniques. And how did you get such a neat and clean shop? Is that for real? 8^) Just kidding.
Thanks Dan, Yeah, sounds like you know the drill...like when company's coming over and everything gets stuffed in the closet!
I also use a Pentel Graphgear 1000 .7 mm in my workshop 👍🏻
Yeah, they're great pencils!...I have the .5 too when I want a little finer line, but the lead breaks easier of course :)
Love these videos!!!
Thanks Nathan, I really appreciate that!
I’m curious about why you use white pine for the drawer sides at all if it wears easily. Why not just use the hard maple for the entirety of the sides? Is it because it’s more economical, because the Shakers used secondary wood like pine or poplar (so it’s a furniture making tradition) or is there something about the properties of pine (or poplar in some cases) that make it particularly well suited for this purpose?
"I think was about a two piece of green tape...gap..." still better than fractions of inches! :)
Yes, it;s 12 thousandths to be more precise, :). Thanks!
Tom, tell me about the splitter you are using on the table saw. I haven’t seen that before on your saw. Is it new? I am restoring the exact same saw and a riving knife cannot be installed. Did you make this? Buy this? Thanks!!!
I can help... its MicroJig Splitter system. I also have it
How come you use the primitive cross cut sled when you have the felder
The first noob who sees this video and is going to try to rip panels on the table saw using his bare hands like that is going to land in the ER.
Agree. A pro like Tom may be comfortable doing that but push sticks or something like a Grr-Ripper add a lot of safety with basically zero time lost for the operation. A Big Horn 10230 is great for both a table saw and jointer and there are many other options.
And also leaving the saw on and then turn away to check something else while wearing ear protection might not be the thing for everyone. Some may got distracted and forgot or not noticing the blade is still running. Tom is a pro, but hobbyists might not be as careful or as attentive
Crank your blade down a little for safety