I have experienced 2 different length bolts for the sub frame. Had to replace the steering rack twice (Cardone sucks) and went all Volvo getting new stretch bolts each time for the subframe. Bought sets from IPD & FCP. Official bolts were long and short depending on when I bought them. Both lengths worked, not sure if there is a spec length, or what it is. Felt better using the longer bolts.
How much of an effect do these have on car vibration? I have a 2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 FWD with an annoying droning sound in the salon when idle. I cleaned the throttle body, and I replaced front engine mount, all torque mounts with OEM parts. There's still the passenger side engine mount behind the wheel, and the rear engine mount that I want to try replacing. If that doesn't work, I don't know what to do.
Hey Robert, I need to change out my turbo and I am thinking of upgrading from what I have. It is a 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Sedan and I don't know what kind of turbo to slap on it.
just change them to the ones found in a standard c70, solid aluminum much better feel, never have to change them again. also those subframe bolts are stretch bolts and shouldn't be reused to many times.
@@STG44VOLVO convertible mate they are standard on any p1 convertible after 01, there solid aluminium billet, some people press them in or simply use a c70 convertible subframe with them already installed if you have the means to support then engine .
@@RobertDIY no problem, no phase 1 volvo c70 convertible started in 99, and all models after 01 had the aluminium subframe bushes , including mine 2002.
pro tip you do not need to take the subframe out of the car to remove the bushings. take a drill and a big bit and look at your new bushing, drill where you think the collar is on the old one youll know when you see white bits of plastic flying out.
@@RobertDIYNo problem if you didn't know that trick I'd be happy it might make a job easier considering how much you've helped me out. I wasn't directing that to you tho I assume you have your own tricks to get them out you're 20x the mechanic I am haha
@@RobertDIY I got to putting the subframe back into place and the receiver threads started stripping. Should I drive the bolt in all the way or should I drill and tap threads one size larger
not sure id be a fan of plastic bushings ..... im running ipd inserts and they work great with the original bushings... the plastic ones im thinking the street driving isnt very good...
Invaluable! Thanks again Robert!
Glad it was helpful!
You da real MVP Robert.
thanks for watching.
I have experienced 2 different length bolts for the sub frame. Had to replace the steering rack twice (Cardone sucks) and went all Volvo getting new stretch bolts each time for the subframe. Bought sets from IPD & FCP. Official bolts were long and short depending on when I bought them. Both lengths worked, not sure if there is a spec length, or what it is. Felt better using the longer bolts.
That's nuts.
Very helpful with the spacer trick
Thanks
Thanks for watching
Thanks for making this video Robert!!!
You are welcome.
Hi Robert! Nice video man! Could you tell us the spacer meassurements to instal the bushes on the car? Just to machine muy ones. Many thanks!
Sad to say, I have no idea.
@@RobertDIY So did you buy them??
There are 100 mm and 120 mm subframe bolts for the P80 cars. My R AWD uses the 120 mm bolts, the 100 mm wouldn't catch.
thanks for sharing.
How much of an effect do these have on car vibration? I have a 2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 FWD with an annoying droning sound in the salon when idle. I cleaned the throttle body, and I replaced front engine mount, all torque mounts with OEM parts. There's still the passenger side engine mount behind the wheel, and the rear engine mount that I want to try replacing. If that doesn't work, I don't know what to do.
Yikes! The front mount near the harmonic balancer will likely help.
Robert, did you remove the steering rack bolts and let the rack float while you dropped the subframe like that?
Yes.
Do they make them for p-2 volvo
I believe so.
Same part fits p2 cars
Hello. Is there anyway to get the dimensions of the spacer so I can try to make one?
What spacer?
@@RobertDIY Hello Robert. The spacer that goes between the sub frame and the car to assist in the installation of the bushing
I'm sure there is.
Hey Robert, I need to change out my turbo and I am thinking of upgrading from what I have. It is a 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Sedan and I don't know what kind of turbo to slap on it.
I think you can use the one that came on 850R and t5 s/v70
Mitsubishi td04-16t hL
If you don't want to purchase a ECU tune, use a 16T.
just change them to the ones found in a standard c70, solid aluminum much better feel, never have to change them again. also those subframe bolts are stretch bolts and shouldn't be reused to many times.
Convertible or all C70?
@@STG44VOLVO convertible mate they are standard on any p1 convertible after 01, there solid aluminium billet, some people press them in or simply use a c70 convertible subframe with them already installed if you have the means to support then engine .
thanks for sharing.
Those are P2 C70's. P1 cars started in '05.
@@RobertDIY no problem, no phase 1 volvo c70 convertible started in 99, and all models after 01 had the aluminium subframe bushes , including mine 2002.
pro tip you do not need to take the subframe out of the car to remove the bushings. take a drill and a big bit and look at your new bushing, drill where you think the collar is on the old one youll know when you see white bits of plastic flying out.
Thanks. We dropped it to swap the engine and transmission.
@@RobertDIYNo problem if you didn't know that trick I'd be happy it might make a job easier considering how much you've helped me out. I wasn't directing that to you tho I assume you have your own tricks to get them out you're 20x the mechanic I am haha
No problem.
Did you get your car back man?
Nope
Definitely need to be careful with those sub frame receiver threads.
Definitely.
@@RobertDIY I got to putting the subframe back into place and the receiver threads started stripping. Should I drive the bolt in all the way or should I drill and tap threads one size larger
Ichiban?
huh
not sure id be a fan of plastic bushings ..... im running ipd inserts and they work great with the original bushings... the plastic ones im thinking the street driving isnt very good...
I don't know how long they last but people love those things.