I stopped using my cyclocross bike for a few weeks and when I washed it before a ride I noticed the rear brake did not work at all (not even a slight rubbing... I really wonder if there's still any fluid at all, and I don't think there is any leak), the pistons did not seem to move when I pressed the lever. I was very surpised as my more than10 years old orbea mtb did not need any brake servicing (shimano mineral oil). I also noticed the sram pin disappeared and my brakes were also squeaking. So I think I am going to order a bleeding kit and follow your well explained instructions. I went through a lot vids and this one is the best video on the subject. Most clear and complete one. So thumbs up and subscribed. Thank you for your time.
So two days before an ultra race having problems, I so needed to find your video. It has after several attempts sorted my rear brake. Excellent instruction delivered in a great step by step guide. I cannot thank you enough. For anyone new to this process be patient and keep repeating.
Wow ! Its like I have just won a large amount of money on the Lottery finding your video. As some aged 73 who totally agrees with n1+ bikes I have decided to build a Gravel Bike. As a consequence I have just brought SRAM RIVAL brakes and I am currently awaiting delivery of the frame. Even though I have worked on hydraulics on cars and motorbikes I was still worried about doing it on a bicycle. But now Vicky having watched your brilliant video I am not so worried about doing it. If I do have problems I will get one of our grandsons to look at your video and then do it. Hope your still doing it and you now have another Sub.
This tutorial has made all the difference. I've attempted to follow others and tried two attempts to bleed my brakes but brakes were not quite right. Really clear and concise steps. My brakes are now sorted and can finally get my CX bike back on the trails!
Thank you so much! I bled both my wife and my brakes successfully. The bike shops near me said I'd have to wait 3 weeks for service. Instead, we'll be riding our bikes! My cost was $50 including the purchase of a bleed kit instead of paying the bike shop $160.
The brakes on my Giant TCX start binding when the weather gets warmer especially if the bike is left in the sun. I took it to a bike shop last year and they bled the brakes which fixed it until this year when it's happening again. The funny thing is that they don't go "spongey" at all. Bought a bleed kit similar to the one used in this video so this was a great help. Thanks. (Useful comment below as well from cycling2005).
If you have followed the correct process several times and still cant get any pressure at the lever on the rear brake, try the following. You will notice the caliper bleed port is facing upwards and is at the top of the front caliper. The rear however when bolted to the frame is at the front and lower part of the caliper. This means there can be air trapped in the caliper body which no amount of bleeding will remove. Air travels upwards. Unbolt the caliper from the frame and let it hang down so the bleed port is facing upwards. Re bleed and make sure to pull on the caliper syringe several times to dislodge the trapped air. This will definitely be required if you have replaced or cleaned the pistons or they have travelled out too far, and got air behind them.
Dear, Vicky Balfour; I wish to send you a very big THANK, for your amazing instruction, how to safely bleed my SRAM Hydraulic Brakes! You are surely a great teacher! My hat goes off (or my helmet) for you! Wishing you many safe rides with your fine bike! God bless you and your whole family as well! Best regards from Sweden! 🙂💯👍👍👍
Awesome video! Went from brakes that didn’t work, to brakes that worked great! Was a lot of air in the system which is probably why they weren’t working well before following this video. First time for me to bleed my own brakes and this tutorial made it a breeze, thank you for this.
I struggled with other guides but found yours to be very concise and covered all of the important points, especially how to purge/pressurise correctly and clamp off. Thank you for putting this excel at guide together.
Thanks for the video. It's refreshing to have a normal video of this operation. Of my three bikes only one is Hydraulic and I hate it. I wonder if it really necessary hydraulic brakes? I mean I no pro obviously and I will never ride a faster speed so In my case hydraulic brakes are absolute nonsense. And I clarify that I LOVE doing maintenance to my bikes.
Interestingly, she pushes the oil from the caliper syringe. According to the SRAM technical video, you should push the oil from the lever syringe, as doing it the other way can damage the caliper.
Great timing…I am getting ready to replace pads on my rival axs road bike. I really appreciate seeing this done on rival! I am having an issue now trying to get the Pistons to retract fully. I cleaned them with IPA after extending the piston out a little multiple times and tried to lubricate the pistons with a little dot5.1 but I am not able to get the pistons to retract. I am going to try and open the lever bleed screw to see there Is extra fluid do to expansion. Thank you again for your thorough instructional video.
Thank you very much. Your video was extermely helpful. It was the first time I did this on my 1 year old Ventum NS1with SRAM Force AXS group set. Got it right the first time.
Excellent video - Really appreciate how you explained how bleeding works 👍🏼 Please do share a video for bleeding the new SRAM RIVAL AXS eTAP brake system - I’ve read its different from the old RIVAL or.FIRCE & RED.
Very useful video :) just one question...i 've got the same brakes and i need to swap brake hoses, any idea how to to this? I can not ride with front brake on the right site :/ cheers.
Great easy to follow video better than srams guides ;). A question, if I was installing a new caliper no need to push pistons back or lube them right?. Also Would I just bleed them then put the pads in and align the rotar? Would that order be correct? Sorry 2 Qs ;) Thanks
Thanks! Easiest way is to loosen off the bolts on the caliper, spin the wheel and pull the brake on. Keep the brake engaged and tighten the caliper bolts. That normally centres it. Cheers.
Great video, what is the best distance for the lever? If i bleed both brakes (sram force 22) i cant get them te same, my aft brake has more play. They are both about 8 cm, is it usefull to make this smaller before bleeding?
I see almost all videos start from the front wheel as you did. I presume it works the same with the rear wheel or a bit more complicated!? Care to share a bit more? Second question is Dot 5 oil the same quality across all brands? Thanks btw love the lever and caliper bit as I lured to open the bolt already to see how it works😁
Hi - great questions! Yes it's the same front and back, just a longer reach so less easy to portray clearly on video. Likewise all Dot 5 oil is the same - it has a registered 'recipe' so is identical where as some other oils can be a bit more proprietary. Happy spannering!
Hi Vicky, thanks for the tutorial! One question though, on SRAM's service document - on page 47 and again on page 49 - it mentions "Do not push brake fluid into the caliper with the caliper syringe. Excessive fluid pressure can cause the Bleeding Edge syringe tool to dislodge from the caliper. Use the lever syringe to move fluid through the system." However, you use the caliper syringe to push and pull in your video. Is SRAM's instruction overly cautious in this regard? Also, why do you find it best to use the caliper syringe to push and pull rather than the lever syringe? Thanks!
I have a hard time bleeding the rear brakes - I cant get proper brake power to the caliper and the lever feels very light and can almost be pushed to the bars. Not so much for the front brakes, I get it done very easy and quickly and it feels powerfull too. Do you have any suggestions how to make it work? thanks
Hi! I bought the same sram rival hydro brake. Upon checking it from the box, I saw a leakage under the rubber hood as I pressed the lever. It is normal? What might be the problem? Thank you!
Rival here: the worst part is screwing on/off the syringes to caliper and same with that Itty bitty screw other Rival bleed port. It's massively annoying to say the least. It's so much more convenient with my Force axs group and this enhanced bleeding port that actually snaps into place.
Dot 5.1 can be mixed with all other Dot fluids like 4 and 3. Just buy at your local car store 5 euro's for a liter. 5.1 is only for extreme hot applications.
Excellent video. Very clear explanation compared to others I've watched.
Best Tutorial on UA-cam for SRAM road brakes. Very concise and without any faffing around.
Thank you 😊
The first logical, clear explanation of how and why we do it. Thanks a lot.
Best SRAM brake bleed tutorial I have seen by a long way. Thanks very much!
Thanks very much. I'm glad it's helped.
Best tutorial video by far on the SRAM road brake bleed system. I hadn't done it for a while and this video is the best I've seen.
Hai Auntie Vicky! I’m ur Niece Kat Kat! I really like this video!
Hi Kat Kat, I'm really glad you liked it. I will show you how to do it next time xx
I stopped using my cyclocross bike for a few weeks and when I washed it before a ride I noticed the rear brake did not work at all (not even a slight rubbing... I really wonder if there's still any fluid at all, and I don't think there is any leak), the pistons did not seem to move when I pressed the lever. I was very surpised as my more than10 years old orbea mtb did not need any brake servicing (shimano mineral oil). I also noticed the sram pin disappeared and my brakes were also squeaking. So I think I am going to order a bleeding kit and follow your well explained instructions. I went through a lot vids and this one is the best video on the subject. Most clear and complete one. So thumbs up and subscribed. Thank you for your time.
So two days before an ultra race having problems, I so needed to find your video. It has after several attempts sorted my rear brake. Excellent instruction delivered in a great step by step guide. I cannot thank you enough. For anyone new to this process be patient and keep repeating.
Wow ! Its like I have just won a large amount of money on the Lottery finding your video. As some aged 73 who totally agrees with n1+ bikes I have decided to build a Gravel Bike. As a consequence I have just brought SRAM RIVAL brakes and I am currently awaiting delivery of the frame. Even though I have worked on hydraulics on cars and motorbikes I was still worried about doing it on a bicycle. But now Vicky having watched your brilliant video I am not so worried about doing it. If I do have problems I will get one of our grandsons to look at your video and then do it. Hope your still doing it and you now have another Sub.
Nice tutorial Mrs Vicky👍🏼
Thanks!
Amazing tutorial ! Tried others and didn't work out .Yours was concise and clear. Thank you very much !
This tutorial has made all the difference. I've attempted to follow others and tried two attempts to bleed my brakes but brakes were not quite right. Really clear and concise steps. My brakes are now sorted and can finally get my CX bike back on the trails!
I’m so pleased to hear it helped! Great work :-) - happy pedalling!
Thank you so much! I bled both my wife and my brakes successfully. The bike shops near me said I'd have to wait 3 weeks for service. Instead, we'll be riding our bikes! My cost was $50 including the purchase of a bleed kit instead of paying the bike shop $160.
Probably the best tutorial I’ve ever watched 👍 Thank you!
The brakes on my Giant TCX start binding when the weather gets warmer especially if the bike is left in the sun. I took it to a bike shop last year and they bled the brakes which fixed it until this year when it's happening again. The funny thing is that they don't go "spongey" at all. Bought a bleed kit similar to the one used in this video so this was a great help. Thanks. (Useful comment below as well from cycling2005).
If you have followed the correct process several times and still cant get any pressure at the lever on the rear brake, try the following. You will notice the caliper bleed port is facing upwards and is at the top of the front caliper. The rear however when bolted to the frame is at the front and lower part of the caliper. This means there can be air trapped in the caliper body which no amount of bleeding will remove. Air travels upwards. Unbolt the caliper from the frame and let it hang down so the bleed port is facing upwards. Re bleed and make sure to pull on the caliper syringe several times to dislodge the trapped air. This will definitely be required if you have replaced or cleaned the pistons or they have travelled out too far, and got air behind them.
Thanks!!!
A really great video. Pedagogic and all the steps nice and smooth. Thanks😊
Dear, Vicky Balfour; I wish to send you a very big THANK, for your amazing instruction, how to safely bleed my SRAM Hydraulic Brakes! You are surely a great teacher! My hat goes off (or my helmet) for you! Wishing you many safe rides with your fine bike! God bless you and your whole family as well! Best regards from Sweden! 🙂💯👍👍👍
Awesome video! Went from brakes that didn’t work, to brakes that worked great! Was a lot of air in the system which is probably why they weren’t working well before following this video. First time for me to bleed my own brakes and this tutorial made it a breeze, thank you for this.
That's brilliant! Well done and glad I could help. 👩🏼🔧
I struggled with other guides but found yours to be very concise and covered all of the important points, especially how to purge/pressurise correctly and clamp off. Thank you for putting this excel at guide together.
Great instructions, always had problems bleeding SRAM before. not any more. Thanks Vicky
Many thanks for this tutorial, it's better structured as the SRAM one and explain the key points in addition, well done
thank you for your feedback.I'm glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for the video. It's refreshing to have a normal video of this operation. Of my three bikes only one is Hydraulic and I hate it. I wonder if it really necessary hydraulic brakes? I mean I no pro obviously and I will never ride a faster speed so In my case hydraulic brakes are absolute nonsense. And I clarify that I LOVE doing maintenance to my bikes.
This was an immensely helpful video. I got a nice bleed on my first try. Thank you!
Interestingly, she pushes the oil from the caliper syringe. According to the SRAM technical video, you should push the oil from the lever syringe, as doing it the other way can damage the caliper.
I've just looked and it depends on whether you've got the bleeding edge port on the caliper. SRAM say push caliper syringe for non- bleeding edge
Thanks, Vicky. This video helped me bleed rival axs brake.
That's great! Glad it helped.
Great timing…I am getting ready to replace pads on my rival axs road bike.
I really appreciate seeing this done on rival! I am having an issue now trying to get the
Pistons to retract fully. I cleaned them with IPA after extending the piston out a little
multiple times and tried to lubricate the pistons with a little dot5.1 but I am not able to
get the pistons to retract. I am going to try and open the lever bleed screw to see there
Is extra fluid do to expansion. Thank you again for your thorough instructional video.
Thank you very much. Your video was extermely helpful. It was the first time I did this on my 1 year old Ventum NS1with SRAM Force AXS group set. Got it right the first time.
This was a great bleed video. Still holds up today, thanks!
Amazing tutorial, very clear and simple ! thank you Vicky :)
amazing tutorial, best out there for bleeding brakes, thanks for the help!
Fantastic. Great clear to follow tutorial. I may have a go at this myself now!
Great! Glad you've found it helpful! Thanks for commenting. Vicky
@@vickybikes Finally got round to trying it today as my back brake was really spongy! It went exactly as you described. Very happy. Many thanks
@@massivecheesemike Fantastic! Well done!
Great video and explanation !!! Good job !!! Thank you !!!
Brilliantly helpful video. Thank you!
Excellent video - Really appreciate how you explained how bleeding works 👍🏼
Please do share a video for bleeding the new SRAM RIVAL AXS eTAP brake system - I’ve read its different from the old RIVAL or.FIRCE & RED.
Thank you. Very interesting and useful video. Will be to bleed a system in my bike Kona.
thanks, finally seen a video that makes me feel happy to take on this long delayed task!
Brilliant video, thank you Vicky
My pleasure, thanks!
Good tutorial, well explained. Shame the camera is often focusing on the wrong subject!
Great video. Well explained.
Thank you :-)
great tutorial, thanks!
Very useful video :) just one question...i 've got the same brakes and i need to swap brake hoses, any idea how to to this? I can not ride with front brake on the right site :/ cheers.
Great easy to follow video better than srams guides ;). A question, if I was installing a new caliper no need to push pistons back or lube them right?. Also Would I just bleed them then put the pads in and align the rotar? Would that order be correct? Sorry 2 Qs ;) Thanks
Great informative video, thanks.
Thank you Vicky!
Thanks - sure helped 👍👍
thanks for great video - if it's a fresh install (no fluid in the new/hose) is it same procedure?
I tried it and it took few goes but worked - thx
Thank you !! I can do it myself now 😊😊👍👍
Thanks for your explanation
How to know that my bike needs bleeding
Know I have my bike for two years, and i haven’t bleed them
Very thorough. Thank you 😊
Great tutorial. Thanks
Great tutorial! Question, why do we need to pull back the levers?
Thanks! It opens up the lever and helps any trapped air bubbles to escape. Also means you get the full amount of oil in the system.
Great video. How do you reset the calliper so the pads don’t rub on the disc?
Thanks! Easiest way is to loosen off the bolts on the caliper, spin the wheel and pull the brake on. Keep the brake engaged and tighten the caliper bolts. That normally centres it. Cheers.
@@vickybikes superb! Thanks for the advice.
Great video, what is the best distance for the lever? If i bleed both brakes (sram force 22) i cant get them te same, my aft brake has more play.
They are both about 8 cm, is it usefull to make this smaller before bleeding?
I see almost all videos start from the front wheel as you did. I presume it works the same with the rear wheel or a bit more complicated!? Care to share a bit more? Second question is Dot 5 oil the same quality across all brands? Thanks btw love the lever and caliper bit as I lured to open the bolt already to see how it works😁
Hi - great questions! Yes it's the same front and back, just a longer reach so less easy to portray clearly on video. Likewise all Dot 5 oil is the same - it has a registered 'recipe' so is identical where as some other oils can be a bit more proprietary. Happy spannering!
Thanks for all the advice. Will always refer to this piece.
Be aware it is DOT 5.1 this can be mixed with DOT 4
DOT 5 is something different and should never be mixed with the two other.
Hi Vicky, thanks for the tutorial! One question though, on SRAM's service document - on page 47 and again on page 49 - it mentions "Do not push brake fluid into the caliper with the caliper syringe. Excessive fluid pressure can cause the Bleeding Edge syringe tool to dislodge from the caliper. Use the lever syringe to move fluid through the system." However, you use the caliper syringe to push and pull in your video. Is SRAM's instruction overly cautious in this regard? Also, why do you find it best to use the caliper syringe to push and pull rather than the lever syringe? Thanks!
Thanksfor your comments. I haven't had problem with it but I will investigate further. Thanks :-).
I have a hard time bleeding the rear brakes - I cant get proper brake power to the caliper and the lever feels very light and can almost be pushed to the bars. Not so much for the front brakes, I get it done very easy and quickly and it feels powerfull too. Do you have any suggestions how to make it work? thanks
Thanks lady, great!
noob here. i'm assuming left over oil in syringe not reusable?
Thanks for the useful info ...
usefull, perfect, thanks
Thanks! Glad it helped
A tour of lubricants with their purposes would be a great video
That's a great idea. Thanks!
Excellent ...👍
Find that all 'SRAM bleed" videos only show the front brake bleed. Find the rear brake to be quite more difficult. Any comments?
Спасибо за видео!
Hi! I bought the same sram rival hydro brake. Upon checking it from the box, I saw a leakage under the rubber hood as I pressed the lever. It is normal? What might be the problem? Thank you!
I would suggest you return them as that does not sound right. I suspect the hose isn't connected properly at the hood.
Rival here: the worst part is screwing on/off the syringes to caliper and same with that Itty bitty screw other Rival bleed port. It's massively annoying to say the least. It's so much more convenient with my Force axs group and this enhanced bleeding port that actually snaps into place.
Dot 5.1 can be mixed with all other Dot fluids like 4 and 3. Just buy at your local car store 5 euro's for a liter. 5.1 is only for extreme hot applications.
Perfect!
Super!
Thankyou
This different for the caliper with Bleeding Edge..
Perfect
The SRAM guidance says to only push fluid from the lever NOT from the caliper upwads. ua-cam.com/video/wJI5SEIc5-o/v-deo.htmlsi=JH-WvZAsHKlTl7Av&t=270
0:24 - "If you understand the process, it makes more sense". Duh! You really put the bleeding into "the bleeding obvious".
horrible camera work. sorry
sram disc are absolutly disaster