Very nice video!! Found out that if you close the bleed port on the lever and then pressurize the system at the rear caliper and close it using the bleeding edge tool you get a lot MORE responsive brakes since you're not letting the pressure out when you unscrew the siringe at the lever port and it's also less messy.
100% spot on Moises! While waiting for my Park Tool bleed kit to arrive I watched plenty of UA-cam videos on the subject with Clint's being about the best as usual. However, this important step is nowhere to be found on YT, rather I stumbled upon it during a deep dive on one of the SRAM Forums. Just replaced pads, cleaned the sticky pistons on my front caliper and bled the system. Applying slight pressure prior to closing off the bleeding edge adaptor makes all the difference. My brakes have never been this good since I took delivery of the bike almost a year ago. Kind of gives me renewed faith in discs versus rim...
@@davidpancerz5820 Was glad to have found your comments here, as well as the person you replied to. This procedure worked great. I don't understand why Sram doesn't instruct it this way?! Closing off the system at the lever port makes no sense. Btw, was the forum you referred to the one on Pinkbike re spongy brakes? A couple other aspects that I think help - dialing the contact point adjustment most of the way to the "In" position - vs. all the way to the "Out" position, which Sram instructs. This allows you adjustability to firm up the brake without it getting too close to the bars. The other is using a thinner bleed block. The prescribed bleed block that Sram uses is quite thick - which again results in less fluid being introduced into the system and possibly resulting in spongy brakes..
Indeed it was the Pinbike site within the Mechanics Lounge Forum (Sram guide ultimate rear brake spongy). Took me a while to find the post from Slabshaft but I'm glad he shared such detailed information. I'm really hard on tires & brakes and replaced rear pads again just the other weekend. And your suggestion to dial in the lever adjustment point is also duly noted in addition to a more slim bleed block.
Doing this actually adjusts the brake bite point, i.e move the pads closer to the rotors. Which is the same as using slimmer bleed block. I'm using a 9mm bleed block. This is much more consistent as you don't need to guess how much pressure you need to apply before closing the caliper bleed port.
Good video! When closing the clamp, pull the syringe lever -- you'll get lots of bubbles forming and going to the top. Do it 4-5 times and there will be enough air out of the fluid. When doing the syringe pull, you can clamp the other end, so you can pull the other syringe with both hands. I found that taping the hoses and the caliper/lever still releases a couple of bubbles.
From the UK, thanks so much mate! I almost snapped a santa cruz in half trying to bleed the sram brakes before I seen this video. If you haven't already bought the new sram bleed kit, with that cool little gizmo, get one!!!! Thank you
Excellent video. Really concise and helpful. I figured it out in 10 min after watching it a couple of times. Then I did both brakes! Thanks for posting it!
Best sram video I've seen. Great help. Clear and precise with no waffling! Everything you need, nothing you don't..... Why are some videos 20 mins long I've no idea!
The only video you need! Wish I had found this 2 years ago. Putting up with substandard braking for too long as my poor technique only lead to slight improvement. Thank you
great content as always. SRAM instructions say use the lever syringe to pull the fluid up to the lever syringe and not push from the caliper as this cause excessive pressure on the Bleeding Edge tool, causing it to dislodge. I did it from the caliper without issue. THen I RTFM. Who knew?
SRAM Guide T brake tune-up: Trying to solve excessive lever movement in my brake - before stopping action begins... Normal bleed didn’t work. Internet forum agrees with me. Solution: made spacer 1mm thinner than my pads&rotor combined thickness. With pads out, squeezed lever until pistons contacted my “bleed block”. Added fluid at lever end. Push-pull several times - as per this video. Spread pistons a millimetre or so to get the front wheel rotor back in. SOLVED! Addendum: Oh yeah, I cleaned and lubed (with brake fluid) the caliper pistons by moving them out by hydraulic pressure a little more than their normal range. Swabbing with Q-tip, then pushing pistons back in w/ plastic tire lever. Repeat a few times. Called “exercising the pistons”. Helps get all 4 of them all moving together. I’ve done this before. Helps a lot. (See Henry’s video at GMBN Tech). Result: brake action begins MUCH earlier in the lever’s throw. (Perfect). Next overhaul/tune-up will require 1/8 the time. Now I know!!! ME >>>>>>>HAPPY!!!!
Clint thanks for this video, like most others have said this was so easy to follow. I did make one huge mistake and pulled out the 4 mm bolt with the leading edge tool. I figured it out quickly and bled the system again. I now have firm brake levers, thanks again.
Great video. Very clear, straight to the point with just the right level of information. I have just bled my GUIDE R's for the first time, with the video running in the background. My brakes are now the "dogs bollocks". (Which means Good) 😉
SRAM's "Bleeding Edge" technology is a worthwhile upgrade. I bought new calipers for one of my bikes just to get away from the old method of brake bleeding. Plus, the Bleeding Edge compatible calipers are a better design than the non-Bleeding Edge calipers. SRAM's pro syringes with rotating tips are worth considering if you are doing brake bleeds frequently.
great video and presentation. one of the very best on the youtube... I will try this. Thank you for uploading and helping others... Do make some other videos on MTB
Good video - very straightforward and I like the helpful hints found in the replies. I do wonder why SRAM do not have bleeding edge at the lever end as well as the caliper.
I have Sram guide R brakes and I bought a Sram Avid bleed kit at my local bike shop and the guys there said it would work with my brakes....but i am having issues with it and I really could use some advice. Thank you for the great video!
After watching this, found bleeding my trance 29er brakes a doddle, so thanks. The main of this comment is that I cannot remember which grips you use. Was out on the Trance today in the cooler weather and kept getting pins and needles with the stock grips. So looking at changing grips. Cheers David - Perth Western Australia
Got sram code rsc brakes what a pain in the rear . Slow returning lever and no bleeding fixies that . I paid to replace the full rear brake as I needed it fast £160 and dammm same issue
Great video, would love any tips for the same issue. Bled my friend's Code Rsc with fresh fluid with the same sram bleed kit used by Clint, lever would not return. Left it for two days and and would slowly return. By day three, lever return and bite feel was perfect.
Sram brakes are 💩 and unfortunately on so many good bikes. My new Stumpjumper has these brakes and I freaking hate them already! Going to try to bleed them but more than likely they'll be gone soon and replaced with Xt or Magura M5s. These things dont be long on high end bikes that cost so much!
@@Frank__K You need to open the lever and file/sand down the plastic plunger just a tad. It's common for this plunger to seize in the barrel. I just did mine and this hack worked a treat.
I was a Shimano guy for brakes for a long time... still am, but I've been using SRAM on my mountain bikes for the past 3 years and have had no issues for their mountain bike brakes. I like their modulation. Road brakes are a different story.
So here's a problem, when you remove the syringe from the lever end, yes a bunch of fluid comes out...along with a loss of pressure. End result is a mushy lever. IMO the lever end should also have a bleeding edge tool so you could then pressurize and close the system without losing fluid and pressure
@@anjummohammed2498 another commentor pressurized the system by using the caliper bleed port. You close the lever bleed port, then push the syringe with the edge tool on the caliper then close the system. Hope this helped.
Great video, I just got new Code Rs, I trimmed the line, used the Stealthamajig barb and olive, following bleeding directions exactly and I'm getting just a very tiny bit of movement from the rear pistons after trying to bleed 4 or 5 times. Pumping lever 20+ times, the pistons are just barely moving, Frustrating.
Same here. When I pull on the lever syringe the caliper one doesn't even budge. Even when I push on the caliper syringe it's super hard to get it to move?
@@mikesuarez9780 I ended up giving it to my local shop, who also couldn't bleed them. They sent it to Sram and I got a brand new brake under warranty. They said it was a faulty lever.
@@ClintGibbs I can’t say I have. I would guess a torch would be too much heat for resin. In all honesty, I didn’t realize they were making pads from resin. That seems a bit nuts. I’m sure they’ve figured out a mix which can stand up to the heat generated by braking.. 😳
I've not bled brakes before, but why two syringes? Why not push the fluid from top or bottom? ... Maybe from the bottom, as air bubbles would tend to move upward? Would this be the same procedure for a total fluid change? Just got back from a trip to NC. After a downhill on Kitsuma, my rear brake stuck and the pads needed pushed apart with a flathead screwdriver. The brake functioned ok for about 5 min before it acted-up again. Thanks for posting this video.
The second syringe basically catches the fluid so none leaks out. Sram is considered a closed system bleeding procedure. DOT fluid is corrosive and toxic.
I had Shimano before and thought the same. Until I just watched this video and did my first Sram bleed ,it was very easy and to be honest it was nice having a second syringe to catch the brake fluid.
Like I said at around 5:15, refill the syringes and start again. If it's been a long time since you bled I would add a little bit more fluid to the lever syringe so you can make sure you flush everything out.
SRAM's more recent bleeding guides have skipped the degassing step. Forums say it's either unnecessary, or that the syringe is prone to letting outside air seep in and isn't really able to pull a vacuum and may be prone to introducing more air.
I followed the procedure,untill there were no air bubbles comming out from the lever side , and the caliper side. It grabs well and releases ,but it seems thst it could crab sooner. It closes the caliper aprox. Half inch from the grip. Is thst normal ? Thank you
I think when my SRAM brakes go out, it will be Avid mechanical brakes for me. Hell I'd go to V-brakes if I could. Never had an instance where I needed more brake.
Is it possilbe to flush the fluid like you would in the brake system of a car, where you pull enough new fluid via the brake fluid reservoir at the master cylinder to displace the old dirty fluid and then close the bleed port at the caliper.
Hey Clint, thanks for you awesome videos. I wonder if you can help me out. My sram rival caliper bleed port is with a t10 screw. Does it mean it's not the bleeding edge? Is it classic one?
Great video. Thanks. 2 questions if you have a moment: 1. After completing this process and assuming the DOT fluid is clear I presume I can return it from the syringes to the bottle for next time? 2. My pistons always seem to protrude a little (so much that the larger block that comes with SRAM kit won't fit). I try to push them back in with the tool but usually without much success. I completed bleed anyway but is there some problem I may be missing if pistons don't fully retract? Thanks again. Excellent bleed video - I've been through them all over the last few days and yours helped me complete my first bleed with confidence.
I typically only reuse DOT fluid if it's from a brand new brake system that I had to install and cut the hoses to get the lines through the frame. But in theory, yes, if the fluid is completely clean and clear you could put it back in the bottle. Really up to you. As far as the pistons, first try squeezing them a little bit and letting them come out and then push them back in. Do this a few times, only letting the pistons come out a little bit. This can lubricate the seals. I have had times where it's hard to get the bleed block inside but I've always managed to get it in there. I guess you could use a file and file down the edge of the bleed block to make it a bit narrower. But you really need to have something in there when doing the bleed. With SRAM the bleeding edge tool is so good you could take a chance and leave the pads in and leave the wheel on the bike. Most of the time I don't think you'd have an issue but just remember if you ever get fluid on the pads they will be ruined. Hope this helps.
Lubricating the circumference of the pistons with brake fluid helps. Here's a park tool video to explain how to do that without making problems worse ua-cam.com/video/vQXFFgRButo/v-deo.html
Nice video!! Quick question if the caliper pistons needs to be pushed back in when do you do this? I would assume when both syringes are open so it pushes the fluid?
Thanks! Quick question: I have a Guide T brake and the pads seems to want to always be in contact with the rotor slightly. There is no air in the system and I have pushed back the pistons several times and let out fluid too, but the pistons always stop slipping at the point where the pads are slightly touching the rotor. I have tried centering the caliper with the mounting bolts as best as possible, so the issue doesn't seem to be there. Any ideas?
@@ClintGibbs They are brand new. I had to let some fluid out initially because they were too full. Maybe I can let a little bit more out. I think I might try putting some thin shims between the rotor and pads when centering the pads and maybe I can prevent the pistons from over-slipping. Hayes makes a tool for this. It's like the seals don't flex far enough before they want to slip.
best video on bleeding sram code .. thank you so much one question thou. so you are not really purging all of the fluid as much as you are mixing new with old ? i am used shimano where you push the old fluid into the cup
If the old fluid is discolored then push it all the way out. If you don't have enough in the syringe then just add a little bit more so that you are completely putting new fluid in.
Clint Gibbs thank you so much . I watched it again last night and it was very clear . thank you again for making video , it’s hands down the best one on this topic .
I’ve bled brakes a fair amount of times and lately I’ve been thinking of trying to do a a few tricks to try and get a shorter more punchy lever feel, I’ve heard a few guys run the pad contact adjustment in the middle during bleeding, and I’ve also been wondering if using a thinner bleed block would allow more fluid to be in the system creating less lever travel to lock the brakes up, thoughts ???
I think a thinner bleed block would be the best way to go. You're going to be introducing more fluid in the system. The only caution is if DOT fluid ever gets some moisture in it can expand which can almost lock out the lever. I've seen that happen a couple times.
I can confirm your theory works base don my Magura MT6 - especially for the rears where there is more cable run and more expansion losses from the cable. Setting the pads closer with a thinner rear block is the way to go in order to make the firmness even for front and rear levers.
Curious....if you could flush out all the dot brake fluid .....could you replace with mineral oil ? What would happen do you or anyone think ? (I don’t plan on doing this...just wondering)
I have a weird issue where the bleeding edge tool has stopped "clicking" into position on the rear caliper. I've checked the port for dirt etc but it seems fine. Have you ever had this? It's still possible to bleed the system, I just have to make sure to support the caliper syringe else it pops off and dot fluid squirts everywhere!
@@ClintGibbsYeah, the rubber cover has been in place and it is not the bleeding edge tool itself because it works fine on the front caliper. It's a real head scratcher because it was fine for the first couple of bleeds, then suddenly decided to stop "latching on" to the syringe. It's just a pain because it makes a fiddly job even fiddly'er.
I would like to know too! I know that DOT fluid has a high boiling temperature. But kudos to Shimano for making brakes that work well without DOT fluid!
Good question. I have a recycle container for any kind of oil or brake fluid that I use. Then I take it to the auto parts store about once a year to recycle.
It's only because Sram brakes suck!🤣 I've had my bike 2 weeks and brakes already started failing. No power (fade) levers go all the way to bar and rear brake stutters badly!!
@@ClintGibbs yeah, seemed like an overkill ..since you're pushing the fluid thru ..I bought an aftermarket for my avid brakes .. worked ok..I was a bit apprehensive , but it's easy and not that difficult ..I had more trouble with my sticky pistons, one side was sticking even after cleaning . All good, thanks
That’s usually the culprit. Or, if the pads are very thin and you used the bleed block, you may want to try bleeding with the pads in if you have the bleeding edge port. Just be careful to not get fluid on the pads.
What's your take on these newer Guide Rs? Issues .. no issues? I hate them and only 2 weeks after bike purchase already having problems! Wish my Stumpy had came with Xts!
I like power in my brakes. At 6' 2" 220 lbs I need it. These brakes just dont have it. Tried to bleed them to get more initial bite to no avail. Rear brake stutters a lot under hard breaking. I think they're just not my cup of tea.
@@frazhussain2211 really just when the performance starts to decrease, is it when the lever starts to feel softer. Or of course if you have to cut the lines for something. If neither of those situations occur than I would say maybe every year or two.
Did you kill whatever was making the background noise... while not touching the brake pads with fingers? Anyway. The kits go for over 100 EUR - which is crazy (psst - uuuhmmm that's the currency people use in other countries). Having simple syringes from a chemist's or even from an animal shelter will not do a worse job - as long as you buy the correct adapter for SRAM's relatively new invention - these cost from EUR 3 to EUR 12 on Aliexpress and take abt. 2-3 weeks to arrive anywhere in the world. Unless you want to bleed your bleeding edge on the edge of the world - ie, in Arctic or Antarctic... Anyway. The guy seems to be residing on some high shelf - as we say here in Latvia - or has his head in stratosphere. A torque wrench for bleeding your brakes? Don't forget your torque wrench when you go for a pee - might come HANDY! Jeeez. Don't think the pioneers of MTB had this guy in mind when they came up with MTB. Or maybe they did - who knows. In that case he might be the lucky chosen one - the ONE who they specifically thought of. Imagine - Garry Fisher racing down the California mountain... with a torque wrench in one hand - and this guy's photo in another. Wheeee-heee! Edited: last time I bought brake fluid - it cost abt. EUR 4 for 250ml and was made by Brembo (so definitely not worse than the one labelled Avid/Sram). Also - you put a rag with WATER around the bleed nipple? Wasn't brake fluid supposed to be hygroscopic? Also - I don't think it's 75-80 mm to the centre of handle. It's 75-80 mm to the handle bar at the right angle (perpendicular) to the handle bar. In order to get air out of fresh brake fluid, create strong vaccum in the syringe - by closing the clamp and pulling strongly the syringe cylinder out - then open the clamp and release the air which has been extracted through the nipple. The whole procedure seemed a bit off. So the torque wrench will sure come in handy. Edited II: found an older video from Mountain BIke Rider called "How to bleed your SRAM Guide and Avid Elixir disc brakes" - here, the sequence of attaching and removing syringes seemed a bit more on point.
Are you having trouble with the geometry of inserting the pads into the caliper, or are the pistons not retracting into the caliper body? Reinserting the pads should not be difficult.
Who was the mastermind behind these brakes? No doubt he was a complete idiot. They requiere a lot of manintanance, they are hard to work, and dont last more than a year cause dot is corrosive and destroys the seals. Not to mention all the tools you need are sram specific. They are simply horrible. Dot 5.1 on a bicycle? Dot 5.1 is only used on high performace superbikes.
Very nice video!!
Found out that if you close the bleed port on the lever and then pressurize the system at the rear caliper and close it using the bleeding edge tool you get a lot MORE responsive brakes since you're not letting the pressure out when you unscrew the siringe at the lever port and it's also less messy.
100% spot on Moises! While waiting for my Park Tool bleed kit to arrive I watched plenty of UA-cam videos on the subject with Clint's being about the best as usual. However, this important step is nowhere to be found on YT, rather I stumbled upon it during a deep dive on one of the SRAM Forums. Just replaced pads, cleaned the sticky pistons on my front caliper and bled the system. Applying slight pressure prior to closing off the bleeding edge adaptor makes all the difference. My brakes have never been this good since I took delivery of the bike almost a year ago. Kind of gives me renewed faith in discs versus rim...
@@davidpancerz5820 Was glad to have found your comments here, as well as the person you replied to. This procedure worked great. I don't understand why Sram doesn't instruct it this way?! Closing off the system at the lever port makes no sense.
Btw, was the forum you referred to the one on Pinkbike re spongy brakes?
A couple other aspects that I think help - dialing the contact point adjustment most of the way to the "In" position - vs. all the way to the "Out" position, which Sram instructs. This allows you adjustability to firm up the brake without it getting too close to the bars. The other is using a thinner bleed block. The prescribed bleed block that Sram uses is quite thick - which again results in less fluid being introduced into the system and possibly resulting in spongy brakes..
Indeed it was the Pinbike site within the Mechanics Lounge Forum (Sram guide ultimate rear brake spongy). Took me a while to find the post from Slabshaft but I'm glad he shared such detailed information. I'm really hard on tires & brakes and replaced rear pads again just the other weekend. And your suggestion to dial in the lever adjustment point is also duly noted in addition to a more slim bleed block.
Doing this actually adjusts the brake bite point, i.e move the pads closer to the rotors. Which is the same as using slimmer bleed block. I'm using a 9mm bleed block. This is much more consistent as you don't need to guess how much pressure you need to apply before closing the caliper bleed port.
@@deadfinggerz Good tip.... thanks! Where did you get a 9mm bleed block? Do you ever have any issues with rub?
Good video! When closing the clamp, pull the syringe lever -- you'll get lots of bubbles forming and going to the top. Do it 4-5 times and there will be enough air out of the fluid.
When doing the syringe pull, you can clamp the other end, so you can pull the other syringe with both hands. I found that taping the hoses and the caliper/lever still releases a couple of bubbles.
Honestly one of the best videos I've seen for bleeding SRAM brakes, or really any brakes for that matter. Good stuff man!
he made it look too easy, maybe I should buy that SRAM bleeding kit...
Agreed.
I agree. I saw the GMBN and Park Tools tutorial. Clint's version is the easiest to follow.
Thanks for a great video! You explained it perfectly, I just completed bleeding my brakes following this.
From the UK, thanks so much mate! I almost snapped a santa cruz in half trying to bleed the sram brakes before I seen this video. If you haven't already bought the new sram bleed kit, with that cool little gizmo, get one!!!! Thank you
CGMBN - not just on the podium, taking gold here. This is excellent and I thank you, sir. Bookmarked forever.
Excellent video. Really concise and helpful. I figured it out in 10 min after watching it a couple of times. Then I did both brakes! Thanks for posting it!
Best sram video I've seen. Great help. Clear and precise with no waffling! Everything you need, nothing you don't..... Why are some videos 20 mins long I've no idea!
Great video, you’ve convinced me to buy a bleed kit and start doing it myself.
The only video you need! Wish I had found this 2 years ago. Putting up with substandard braking for too long as my poor technique only lead to slight improvement. Thank you
great content as always. SRAM instructions say use the lever syringe to pull the fluid up to the lever syringe and not push from the caliper as this cause excessive pressure on the Bleeding Edge tool, causing it to dislodge. I did it from the caliper without issue. THen I RTFM. Who knew?
thanks for the video. I saw a few others, including the GMBN tech one and they were just confusing. This one is clear and shows all the steps.
This is the CGMBN (Clint Gibbs mountain bike network) 😉
SRAM Guide T brake tune-up:
Trying to solve excessive lever movement in my brake - before stopping action begins...
Normal bleed didn’t work. Internet forum agrees with me.
Solution: made spacer 1mm thinner than my pads&rotor combined thickness. With pads out, squeezed lever until pistons contacted my “bleed block”. Added fluid at lever end. Push-pull several times - as per this video.
Spread pistons a millimetre or so to get the front wheel rotor back in. SOLVED!
Addendum: Oh yeah, I cleaned and lubed (with brake fluid) the caliper pistons by moving them out by hydraulic pressure a little more than their normal range. Swabbing with Q-tip, then pushing pistons back in w/ plastic tire lever. Repeat a few times. Called “exercising the pistons”. Helps get all 4 of them all moving together. I’ve done this before. Helps a lot. (See Henry’s video at GMBN Tech).
Result: brake action begins MUCH earlier in the lever’s throw. (Perfect).
Next overhaul/tune-up will require 1/8 the time. Now I know!!!
ME >>>>>>>HAPPY!!!!
I did that and it really helped, what you said it's everyone's problem with these brakes and it's true
thx for the tips
just did my rear brake with this video as a guide...worked out great...thank you! (been riding less than a year....found it easy with this video!)
Probably the best video on how to bleed sram breaks. Better than that GMBN BS or sram videos. Keep the the good work man
Very informative and your bleed makes it more easy to follow then the SRAMs.
What a difference a bleed makes! Thx Clint!
Clint thanks for this video, like most others have said this was so easy to follow. I did make one huge mistake and pulled out the 4 mm bolt with the leading edge tool. I figured it out quickly and bled the system again.
I now have firm brake levers, thanks again.
Very, very good video. Saved my butt today with super clear instructions.
Great video. Very clear, straight to the point with just the right level of information. I have just bled my GUIDE R's for the first time, with the video running in the background. My brakes are now the "dogs bollocks". (Which means Good) 😉
Nice job man. Really masterful presentation - clear and unambiguous.
SRAM's "Bleeding Edge" technology is a worthwhile upgrade. I bought new calipers for one of my bikes just to get away from the old method of brake bleeding. Plus, the Bleeding Edge compatible calipers are a better design than the non-Bleeding Edge calipers. SRAM's pro syringes with rotating tips are worth considering if you are doing brake bleeds frequently.
Thanks Clint, this video made the job so much easier.
Really clear descrition of what to do - thankyou.
great video and presentation. one of the very best on the youtube... I will try this. Thank you for uploading and helping others... Do make some other videos on MTB
I rather watch big dawg Clint then the sram video. Thanks Clint!!!
I should have watched this before going to the shop yesterday
Good video - very straightforward and I like the helpful hints found in the replies. I do wonder why SRAM do not have bleeding edge at the lever end as well as the caliper.
That was the most helpful video I've seen on this yet. Liked and Subscribed!
I have Sram guide R brakes and I bought a Sram Avid bleed kit at my local bike shop and the guys there said it would work with my brakes....but i am having issues with it and I really could use some advice. Thank you for the great video!
Anytime I need to bleed my Sram brakes, I come back to your video. Thanks!
After watching this, found bleeding my trance 29er brakes a doddle, so thanks.
The main of this comment is that I cannot remember which grips you use. Was out on the Trance today in the cooler weather and kept getting pins and needles with the stock grips. So looking at changing grips.
Cheers
David - Perth Western Australia
In this video the Niner grips are on the bike which are really good. You may want to try ESI foam grips. Get the chunky version.
@@ClintGibbs thank you, I can get them locally too.
All the best.
@@ClintGibbs had first ride with the new grips, and no pins and needles! Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.
Better than the gmbn video in every way
Very nicely done video!
Still not going to invest in SRAM brakes though...
Lots of good tips in there. Well done.
Also, I like to clean with brake cleaner after the bleed to be sure no DOT fluid contaminates my pads or rotor.
good timing. just got A GLORY 2 that uses Guide brakes. seems a bit different from my shimano kit.
Got sram code rsc brakes what a pain in the rear . Slow returning lever and no bleeding fixies that . I paid to replace the full rear brake as I needed it fast £160 and dammm same issue
Great video, would love any tips for the same issue. Bled my friend's Code Rsc with fresh fluid with the same sram bleed kit used by Clint, lever would not return. Left it for two days and and would slowly return. By day three, lever return and bite feel was perfect.
Sram brakes are 💩 and unfortunately on so many good bikes. My new Stumpjumper has these brakes and I freaking hate them already! Going to try to bleed them but more than likely they'll be gone soon and replaced with Xt or Magura M5s. These things dont be long on high end bikes that cost so much!
@@Frank__K You need to open the lever and file/sand down the plastic plunger just a tad. It's common for this plunger to seize in the barrel. I just did mine and this hack worked a treat.
If Sram brakes worked, this would be a useful vlog.
I was a Shimano guy for brakes for a long time... still am, but I've been using SRAM on my mountain bikes for the past 3 years and have had no issues for their mountain bike brakes. I like their modulation. Road brakes are a different story.
I’m gonna perform this service soon thank you for the how to!
Thank you! Very easy to follow!
Awesome video - super clear steps.
best video so far keep it up
Holy handle bar grips there, lol
So here's a problem, when you remove the syringe from the lever end, yes a bunch of fluid comes out...along with a loss of pressure. End result is a mushy lever. IMO the lever end should also have a bleeding edge tool so you could then pressurize and close the system without losing fluid and pressure
I am also experiencing this problem. Did you manage to resolve it?
@@anjummohammed2498 another commentor pressurized the system by using the caliper bleed port. You close the lever bleed port, then push the syringe with the edge tool on the caliper then close the system. Hope this helped.
U sure your lever piston seals arnt shot?
@@Kaedenfu that’s a good way of getting a little extra “bite”!
Great video, I just got new Code Rs, I trimmed the line, used the Stealthamajig barb and olive, following bleeding directions exactly and I'm getting just a very tiny bit of movement from the rear pistons after trying to bleed 4 or 5 times. Pumping lever 20+ times, the pistons are just barely moving, Frustrating.
Same here. When I pull on the lever syringe the caliper one doesn't even budge. Even when I push on the caliper syringe it's super hard to get it to move?
@@mikesuarez9780 I ended up giving it to my local shop, who also couldn't bleed them. They sent it to Sram and I got a brand new brake under warranty. They said it was a faulty lever.
@@richATTK1 I may end up having my LBS take a look. I got it to work but, it's mushy as hell!
Very good ,better put than Sram"s keep up the good work
Epic! That only took me 10 minutes. Way better than shimano's system. Plus I like sram brakes better. I'm sold!
Thanks!
If you don’t have the Bleeding Edge Tool, can you still bleed the brakes, if so, how?
I dont even run sram brakes why am i here lol
Haha same... but I might at some point :)
"if you do, they will be ruined." - right up until the point where you run a torch on them.
Well, I will admit I have never taken a torch to brake pads. Have you tried that with resin pads as well?
@@ClintGibbs I can’t say I have. I would guess a torch would be too much heat for resin. In all honesty, I didn’t realize they were making pads from resin. That seems a bit nuts. I’m sure they’ve figured out a mix which can stand up to the heat generated by braking.. 😳
Thanks for your video. Can you do one on how to service the Fox dpx 2 shock?
I've not bled brakes before, but why two syringes? Why not push the fluid from top or bottom? ... Maybe from the bottom, as air bubbles would tend to move upward?
Would this be the same procedure for a total fluid change?
Just got back from a trip to NC. After a downhill on Kitsuma, my rear brake stuck and the pads needed pushed apart with a flathead screwdriver. The brake functioned ok for about 5 min before it acted-up again.
Thanks for posting this video.
The second syringe basically catches the fluid so none leaks out. Sram is considered a closed system bleeding procedure. DOT fluid is corrosive and toxic.
what alot of hastle im so glad i have shimano
I had Shimano before and thought the same. Until I just watched this video and did my first Sram bleed ,it was very easy and to be honest it was nice having a second syringe to catch the brake fluid.
Great video. I'm curious how you dispose of old oil?
Great question.
I have a recycle container that I use for any kind of oil or brake fluid. When it gets full I take it up to the automotive store to recycle.
Very helpful, thanks. What is the procedure if the old brake fluid comes out dirty and needs to be replaced?
Like I said at around 5:15, refill the syringes and start again. If it's been a long time since you bled I would add a little bit more fluid to the lever syringe so you can make sure you flush everything out.
Great video. Just wondering if there is a step missing - to degas the fluid by creating a vacuum?
SRAM's more recent bleeding guides have skipped the degassing step. Forums say it's either unnecessary, or that the syringe is prone to letting outside air seep in and isn't really able to pull a vacuum and may be prone to introducing more air.
I followed the procedure,untill there were no air bubbles comming out from the lever side , and the caliper side. It grabs well and releases ,but it seems thst it could crab sooner. It closes the caliper aprox. Half inch from the grip. Is thst normal ?
Thank you
Does your lever have a pad contact dial?
I think when my SRAM brakes go out, it will be Avid mechanical brakes for me. Hell I'd go to V-brakes if I could. Never had an instance where I needed more brake.
Better modulation and overall stopping power, if need be. Agree however with the ease of maintenance, i.e. 0. My $0.02
Is it possilbe to flush the fluid like you would in the brake system of a car, where you pull enough new fluid via the brake fluid reservoir at the master cylinder to displace the old dirty fluid and then close the bleed port at the caliper.
Hey Clint, thanks for you awesome videos. I wonder if you can help me out. My sram rival caliper bleed port is with a t10 screw. Does it mean it's not the bleeding edge? Is it classic one?
А как быть если воздуха в системе нет,все процедуры выполнены строго по инструкции,но колодки лежат на роторе.Тормоз новый.Укорачивалась линия.
Hi I have the exact same brakes but on the rear calliper the bleed screw is chewed up and there is not way to open it ? Any idea on how to get it out
Thanks, Clint!!!!
When my guides need bleeding I know where to come
Great video. Thanks. 2 questions if you have a moment:
1. After completing this process and assuming the DOT fluid is clear I presume I can return it from the syringes to the bottle for next time?
2. My pistons always seem to protrude a little (so much that the larger block that comes with SRAM kit won't fit). I try to push them back in with the tool but usually without much success. I completed bleed anyway but is there some problem I may be missing if pistons don't fully retract?
Thanks again. Excellent bleed video - I've been through them all over the last few days and yours helped me complete my first bleed with confidence.
I typically only reuse DOT fluid if it's from a brand new brake system that I had to install and cut the hoses to get the lines through the frame. But in theory, yes, if the fluid is completely clean and clear you could put it back in the bottle. Really up to you.
As far as the pistons, first try squeezing them a little bit and letting them come out and then push them back in. Do this a few times, only letting the pistons come out a little bit. This can lubricate the seals. I have had times where it's hard to get the bleed block inside but I've always managed to get it in there. I guess you could use a file and file down the edge of the bleed block to make it a bit narrower. But you really need to have something in there when doing the bleed. With SRAM the bleeding edge tool is so good you could take a chance and leave the pads in and leave the wheel on the bike. Most of the time I don't think you'd have an issue but just remember if you ever get fluid on the pads they will be ruined. Hope this helps.
@@ClintGibbs Thanks again.
Lubricating the circumference of the pistons with brake fluid helps. Here's a park tool video to explain how to do that without making problems worse
ua-cam.com/video/vQXFFgRButo/v-deo.html
No water on the rag, DOT fluid attracts water. If you get water in your system it will boil and introduce air.
Nice video!! Quick question if the caliper pistons needs to be pushed back in when do you do this? I would assume when both syringes are open so it pushes the fluid?
Yes, do it with the syringes open but before you push fluid back through
@@ClintGibbs thanks
Is the specialized enduro 2017 fsr good?
Clint is it same process for front thanks 👍🚒
Yep
Thanks! Quick question: I have a Guide T brake and the pads seems to want to always be in contact with the rotor slightly. There is no air in the system and I have pushed back the pistons several times and let out fluid too, but the pistons always stop slipping at the point where the pads are slightly touching the rotor. I have tried centering the caliper with the mounting bolts as best as possible, so the issue doesn't seem to be there. Any ideas?
I've actually never run into that issue. How new are the brake pads?
@@ClintGibbs They are brand new. I had to let some fluid out initially because they were too full. Maybe I can let a little bit more out. I think I might try putting some thin shims between the rotor and pads when centering the pads and maybe I can prevent the pistons from over-slipping. Hayes makes a tool for this. It's like the seals don't flex far enough before they want to slip.
Awesome mate 👍🏽
best video on bleeding sram code .. thank you so much
one question thou. so you are not really purging all of the fluid as much as you are mixing new with old ? i am used shimano where you push the old fluid into the cup
If the old fluid is discolored then push it all the way out. If you don't have enough in the syringe then just add a little bit more so that you are completely putting new fluid in.
Clint Gibbs thank you so much . I watched it again last night and it was very clear . thank you again for making video , it’s hands down the best one on this topic .
👍
Good question - I had the same thought. You would think this would be standard practice for all of the effort a few more ml of fluid is worth it.
I’ve bled brakes a fair amount of times and lately I’ve been thinking of trying to do a a few tricks to try and get a shorter more punchy lever feel, I’ve heard a few guys run the pad contact adjustment in the middle during bleeding, and I’ve also been wondering if using a thinner bleed block would allow more fluid to be in the system creating less lever travel to lock the brakes up, thoughts ???
I think a thinner bleed block would be the best way to go. You're going to be introducing more fluid in the system. The only caution is if DOT fluid ever gets some moisture in it can expand which can almost lock out the lever. I've seen that happen a couple times.
Clint Gibbs ok cool thanks for the info, I will be trying this soon and will keep you posted
👍
@@andrewcox7416 So how did it go..?
I can confirm your theory works base don my Magura MT6 - especially for the rears where there is more cable run and more expansion losses from the cable. Setting the pads closer with a thinner rear block is the way to go in order to make the firmness even for front and rear levers.
Curious....if you could flush out all the dot brake fluid .....could you replace with mineral oil ? What would happen do you or anyone think ? (I don’t plan on doing this...just wondering)
I believe the seals are of a different spec for DOT fluid and mineral oil, so I wouldn't recommend it
I have a weird issue where the bleeding edge tool has stopped "clicking" into position on the rear caliper. I've checked the port for dirt etc but it seems fine. Have you ever had this? It's still possible to bleed the system, I just have to make sure to support the caliper syringe else it pops off and dot fluid squirts everywhere!
I have not had that issue. Was the rubber plug over the port? In other words was there a chance for a debris to get in there?
@@ClintGibbsYeah, the rubber cover has been in place and it is not the bleeding edge tool itself because it works fine on the front caliper. It's a real head scratcher because it was fine for the first couple of bleeds, then suddenly decided to stop "latching on" to the syringe. It's just a pain because it makes a fiddly job even fiddly'er.
can anyone tell me why sram uses DOT ? or why shimano uses mineral oil ? would like to know their reasoning.
I would like to know too! I know that DOT fluid has a high boiling temperature. But kudos to Shimano for making brakes that work well without DOT fluid!
Maybe sram owns stock in a brake fluid company ?
Sram uses DOT because it's a regulated specification. This means it has to meet a minimum standard for use. There is no regulation with mineral oil.
Nice vid thanks
What do you do with your left over fluid?
Good question. I have a recycle container for any kind of oil or brake fluid that I use. Then I take it to the auto parts store about once a year to recycle.
@@ClintGibbs Good to know. Thanks!
When it’s time bleed your Sram brakes...
save time and money by switching to Shimano
Why Shimano? I'm riding both but curious as to why you lean towards Shimano
I’ve had a set of Shimano brakes remain consistent for years. I need to bleed my Sram Guide R’s almost every 2 months to keep them feeling consistent.
It's only because Sram brakes suck!🤣 I've had my bike 2 weeks and brakes already started failing. No power (fade) levers go all the way to bar and rear brake stutters badly!!
You didn't do the air bubble step , tapping on syringe..it was in my instructions, maybe not necessary
SRAM doesn't recommend that anymore. I think they realized it didn't make a difference.
@@ClintGibbs yeah, seemed like an overkill ..since you're pushing the fluid thru ..I bought an aftermarket for my avid brakes .. worked ok..I was a bit apprehensive , but it's easy and not that difficult ..I had more trouble with my sticky pistons, one side was sticking even after cleaning .
All good, thanks
Rear brake still squishy , maybe air in the line?
That’s usually the culprit. Or, if the pads are very thin and you used the bleed block, you may want to try bleeding with the pads in if you have the bleeding edge port. Just be careful to not get fluid on the pads.
Clint, do you know if the said kit will do for bleeding with the Force Etap AXS electronic shifter hydraulic disk brakes?
I think so. This kit comes with the bleeding edge tip and also two regular ones.
@@ClintGibbs :) Thank you, Clint!
What's your take on these newer Guide Rs? Issues .. no issues? I hate them and only 2 weeks after bike purchase already having problems! Wish my Stumpy had came with Xts!
At this point I've had no issues with them. With SRAM You do have to get used to less initial bite but more modulation.
I like power in my brakes. At 6' 2" 220 lbs I need it. These brakes just dont have it. Tried to bleed them to get more initial bite to no avail. Rear brake stutters a lot under hard breaking. I think they're just not my cup of tea.
@@LuisManuelHdez good to have choices 😉
Do you still need to strap the lever back with a toe clip like in your road brake bleed video?
No. The process with this bleeding edge tool is so much easier.
@@ClintGibbs Perfect, how often would you recommend bleeding these type of brankes
@@frazhussain2211 really just when the performance starts to decrease, is it when the lever starts to feel softer. Or of course if you have to cut the lines for something. If neither of those situations occur than I would say maybe every year or two.
Wear eye protection.
If only Sram could settle on either Torx or Allen....it's annoying.
Did you kill whatever was making the background noise... while not touching the brake pads with fingers? Anyway. The kits go for over 100 EUR - which is crazy (psst - uuuhmmm that's the currency people use in other countries). Having simple syringes from a chemist's or even from an animal shelter will not do a worse job - as long as you buy the correct adapter for SRAM's relatively new invention - these cost from EUR 3 to EUR 12 on Aliexpress and take abt. 2-3 weeks to arrive anywhere in the world. Unless you want to bleed your bleeding edge on the edge of the world - ie, in Arctic or Antarctic... Anyway. The guy seems to be residing on some high shelf - as we say here in Latvia - or has his head in stratosphere. A torque wrench for bleeding your brakes? Don't forget your torque wrench when you go for a pee - might come HANDY! Jeeez. Don't think the pioneers of MTB had this guy in mind when they came up with MTB. Or maybe they did - who knows. In that case he might be the lucky chosen one - the ONE who they specifically thought of. Imagine - Garry Fisher racing down the California mountain... with a torque wrench in one hand - and this guy's photo in another. Wheeee-heee! Edited: last time I bought brake fluid - it cost abt. EUR 4 for 250ml and was made by Brembo (so definitely not worse than the one labelled Avid/Sram). Also - you put a rag with WATER around the bleed nipple? Wasn't brake fluid supposed to be hygroscopic? Also - I don't think it's 75-80 mm to the centre of handle. It's 75-80 mm to the handle bar at the right angle (perpendicular) to the handle bar. In order to get air out of fresh brake fluid, create strong vaccum in the syringe - by closing the clamp and pulling strongly the syringe cylinder out - then open the clamp and release the air which has been extracted through the nipple. The whole procedure seemed a bit off. So the torque wrench will sure come in handy. Edited II: found an older video from Mountain BIke Rider called "How to bleed your SRAM Guide and Avid Elixir disc brakes" - here, the sequence of attaching and removing syringes seemed a bit more on point.
Am I the only one who struggles getting pads in 😂😂😂
Are you having trouble with the geometry of inserting the pads into the caliper, or are the pistons not retracting into the caliper body? Reinserting the pads should not be difficult.
Just lining them up with the pin pistons retract perfectly
I would not ride a bike that uses DOT fluid...mineral oil is way better!
I sincerely hope you didn't touch your shirt with those gloves on.
Nope
IM THE FIRST.
I really don’t care that I’m the first
🏆
Who was the mastermind behind these brakes? No doubt he was a complete idiot. They requiere a lot of manintanance, they are hard to work, and dont last more than a year cause dot is corrosive and destroys the seals. Not to mention all the tools you need are sram specific. They are simply horrible. Dot 5.1 on a bicycle? Dot 5.1 is only used on high performace superbikes.
Thank you.
Thank You