Just picked up a new R7 a few weeks ago. Have been pouring over the UA-cam videos looking for the best way to set it up for birding.your video for the R7 is the best and most informative one I have come across. I will be following more from you.!!Thanks!!
I'm 70 years old and new to photography, I have viewed many UA-cam videos to learn how to obtain good photos of birds in flight. This tutorial is so easy to follow I can't wait to get out and try these settings. Thank you so much for making this video, it has helped me immensely.
My pleasure :-) I am a graduate school professor of anatomy and physiology (my day job), so I get a lot of practice making complicated subjects more easily understood :-). Let us know how things go!
@@lets_go_birding9096 Hi, over the last two days I have tried your camera settings with great results! I have photographed a red kite and a buzzard in flight with good results despite the birds being very high. I have been using the screen to view my subjects, but today I tried your tip of actually using the view finder, wow what a difference. It is so much easier to focus and track birds in flight. Thank you once again for your tutorial, excellent! Phil
Just purchased the R7 & the RF 100-400 lens after after using a bridge camera for about 3 years. Expensive birthday present..😂🎁 There is a great deal of tutorials on UA-cam about the R7 but yours has been a life saver, your breakdown of the camera is easy to follow & very accessible..📷👍. I take my camera everywhere, even on the Ambulance as I’m a Paramedic based in Yorkshire, UK,🇬🇧. You never know when there’s something interesting to snap..& I mean the wildlife not my patients..😮📷. Thanks for your help..📷👍
this video clearly stands out from other videos on eos r7 and by itself is sufficient to understand most of the eos R7 system. kudos for the great job of explaining the concepts very well and correlating between different aspects of the system rather than reading out a systems menu monologue
Top of the class Professor! Thanks for this video. Having just bought an R7 and off to Kenya in 9 days time, your video was invaluable and brilliantly presented.🤩
Thank you so much for this comprehensive and clear tutorial. I've watched it all and changed the settings accordingly. Looking forward to try it tomorrow. Cheers !
i just got the R7 yesterday and took my first birps with the new Rf100-400 today. after coming back i and got the initial excitement out of the way i watch your video and its pure gold. cheers for making this. lots of functions i already knew but there were plenty i had no clue. i watched the entire thing and had my cam on the charger while setting it up as you suggest little by little while going through the different settings. i saw some shorter tutorials before but none of them made sense same way as yours. really nice. finally i know what first curtain actually is and not just use it because everybody says so. 😅 the amount of knowledge i got here is fanbloodytastic and i will get up as early i can to give the new knowledge a last chance to shine before i leave this mountain bird paradise place in china. wish me luck. (not that i need after all the new settings) 😂
This presentation is awesome! It’s the most detailed of anything I’ve found on UA-cam. Thanks for putting it together. I learned a bunch of things I’m going to use on my R7
Hi, this is excellent. I just migratef frotm EOS R into R7. With your guiding this process was much easier. Now I have to wait for a good weather (more light) to check it in the field. Thank you!
Excellent, informative video. I've been shooting the R7 for over a year and I still learned something, and now have the understanding (thanks to your video) to make changes confidently. Looking forward to trying them in the field.
I'm so glad to help :-) I would love to see some pictures from rural Africa! I bet you have some crazy (and dangerous) creatures to take pictures of :-)
Thank you very much for your work. I bought a Canon R7+ 18-150 and a Canon RF 600mm F11 lens. I also plan to buy a Canon 100-400mm. I learned from your videos, you explain very well and are a master of your craft. This camera is the pinnacle of technology. Before this I used a Canon 500d in auto mode. Now I have studied the manual mode and the Canon R7 camera. It's like heaven and earth!
@@lets_go_birding9096 Hello. Now I sold the 600mm f11 and bought a 100-400 and 200-800. The 200-800 has become my main lens, and I carry it with me from morning to evening. Please tell me, what is your main camera? R5? Should me strive to buy a full frame camera? Sorry for my bad English.
I very much appreciate your videos. I am 75 and have been marginally involved with photography for more that 55 years. My first camera was a Yashika with a f1.2. And, for my 50th birthday my wife gave me a trip to Kenya / Tansania, for which I needed to have a separate bag to carry all the film for the Nikon F5 and F100. I am now in the process of moving to digital world. Your videos have been very beneficial and I can only imagine how much effort you put into preparing them, thanks! My 2 questions are 1) regarding the customization of the buttons and dials. If I were to put the Direct AF Area Selection on the checkerboard button, will the checkerboard button loose the other functions that it does as default, i.e. being used in combination with the M-FN button to change the size of the AF boxes? And 2) is there a place that tells me if the button needs to be held to be engaged or if it is press and release to engage?
Very informative and accurate for my needs with my R7. I play your video at 1/2 speed and can do the step by step stetting adjustments well. :-) Thanx for this one because I am just getting the rf 100-500 and feel some of the points you made here will help me to set up my camera because I'm moving up from my ef f2.8 iii 70-200 with 2 times extender to the rf 100-500.
Nice video, great teaching, I'm getting a lot of information that is helpful and useful from this video. Thank you. This is a lot of work and time to set up all of these settings. If only the R7 would have the choice of saving the Custom settings like the R5 can, just for insurance just in case the camera settings might become erased.
On the "Release shutter without SD card" option, I think it is there so the camera is usable as a demo in the stores. It may help to sell the camera. I don't see them changing the default.
Excellent detailed video. A big thank you for the effort Interestingly on my R6 mk2 , I tried your suggestions for AF ON button to get ‘spot’ The only way I can override the cameras main menu items to search for an ‘animal’ is to select ‘subject to detect-None’ on the AF ON button submenu otherwise the camera tries to find an eye, body etc I’ll be interested to see whether you notice this on the R8
My pleasure! Just ordered the R8. Should be interesting so see how that "subject tracking" works. Hopefully, it will stay inside the autofocus boxes boundaries. we shall see!
So it looks like you do not use Back Button focusing. I use BBF on the AF-On button, set to AF-eye, with subject tracking on, and usually, as you say, that is great. However, as you say, there are times when I want manual control of the focus square, and have it work like the old DSLR. Such as when I want to do a closeup of a flower or insect and choose the exact focal spot. People told me to set subject detection on/off to a button, but I could never tell if it was on or off, and it didn't seem to work. After watching your excellent video, I have set the * to Metering and AF Start, and turned off subject tracking and set Spot AF in that Detail/Info area of that button From a quick test, it seems to be working! If this works, I am so excited, because I have been trying to find a quick way to escape from subject detection as needed!
If you want to re-center the AF box, you can double press the joystick and it snaps back to the center. It’s the same on the r5/6/3. Actually, my R7 jumps back to the center immediately upon a single press, not a double press! Just wanted to correct myself. Mine is not finicky like yours.
Wow I had my checker button (under the * button) set to recentre because I had no clue that this was possible. Maybe I can use the checker button for something more useful now.
Doug I've just stumbled on your channel and what an outstanding series of tutorials you have produced. I'm rewatching and digesting ALL the info in this video and the other two on the R7, and will undoubtedly have some questions and comments in the near future. I do at this point however have an answer for a question you asked at 36:17. I also lament that (it appeared) you couldn't assign a button to switch between 'SHUTTER MODES'. At least between Elect. 1st-curtain and Electronic for when you'd like for ramp up from 15fps to 30fps and live with any 'rolling shutter' results that may eventuate. Funnily you explained/showed what happens when 'silent shutter function' is selected, i.e. shutter mode changes from 'Elect. 1st-curtain' to 'Electronic' and is greyed out (50:50). Therefore based on THIS explanation, I've assigned a button (the 'DOF button') to turn 'Silent Shutter' OFF/ON which will switch between the two 'electronic' shutter modes. I previously modified and assigned the 'Q/set' button to 'DRIVE MODES', so that takes care of 'on-the-fly' changes to both Shutter and Drive modes using two buttons.
Excellent! The only problem I encountered is I can not set Electronic First Curtain...it was disabled and the only option I had was mechanical or fully electronic shutter. That is because Auto Level was set to ON, turn Auto Level off in order to get Electronic First Curtain shutter.
@@lets_go_birding9096 Yes I also always have auto-level off. I also store files as CRAW and not JPEG, eye tracking on, ISO Auto up to 6400...Topaz can handle the noise of ISO 6400 for most of my photos.
You're saying that the pixels are more spread out and less dense around the edges than in the center? I've never heard that before and I'm pretty sure the pixels are spread evenly across the sensor in a rectangle of exactly even proportions. I think each row horizontally and vertically has the same number of pixels as the next row
Thanks you for pointing this out:-) Yes, this is true. The point I was trying to make is that the pixels of APSC sensors are "more squished together" (higher pixel density) and smaller in size, compared to full frame sensors.
Great video.. thank you... great advice as well. Question... When you set the AF-ON button for Spot and subject tracking off. Could you also turn the eye detection and animal on for the same button and would it work? My thinking is you have a "spot" focus point without subject tracking so you can focus on bird between sticks.. and with eye and animal on same button it should also grab eye between sticks? Or am I thinking incorrectly? Thanks again!
Good question! You would think that the eye-tracking would grab the sticks just as easily as the subject tracking would. In the sticks, you only want the focus point to go where you tell it to and not hunt for anything. Edit: I just tried it (enabling eye auto focus on the AF On button). I does not even engage and must be turned off when you turn off subject tracking.
What a great video!! One question however, you did not mention to change the behaviour of the shutter botton. If you keep it to "metering+AF" . . . it takes the AF settings in camera is in?
Thanks! I leave the metering+AF start on the shutter button which then uses the camera's menu settings. The AF-On button, when pressed and held, will over-ride the shutter button's settings, so set that up different (I set it to start start up spot AF and turn off tracking and detection.
At 1:28, the AF chooses the nearest eye to the box because you have eye detection on. It is following the rules perfectly. Nothing to do with tracking I believe
There are a few ap-s lenses for the r7. Canon released a few with the r7 and released a couple more with those other crop sensor bodies they released a few months ago.
@@lets_go_birding9096 True, and there never will be, from Canon anyway. But with lenses like the RF 100-400, RF 600&800 f11, there is little reason to make any.
Great video. Very detailed. But I lost you at the end when you set your AF-ON button to Spot AF and Subject Tracking off. That's good for Spot AF. But I thought you are using back-button AF, aren't you? Then how do you shoot BIF when you want to use zone AF and subject tracking on?
Thanks. Because the recognition and subject tracking are so darn good in the EOS R7, R8, R10 and R62, I've stopped using back button focusing. Nowadays, I just Half-press the shutter button (stock setting) to start autofocus and full press and hold to take the picture. Once subject recognition has grabbed onto a bird, tracking will keep it locked on target - even if it goes outside of the boundaries of your autofocus area (a.k.a., autofocus point, autofocus box, autofocus method). Although its true when you release the full press you disengage autofocus, you can quickly half-press again to reacquire your target. I found its much easier to start autofocus with that big shutter button, compared to one of the tiny back buttons. When I'm in a situation where recognition and tracking just aren't working, Then I quickly need to turn off recognition and tracking so I can have an old school autofocus point/area/box where the autofocus system does not leave the perimeter of the box - usually spot focus is what I set up on the AF on button without any tracking or any recognition. On the star button, I will set that up so it also, when pushed down and held, disengages/stops recognition and tracking, as well as brings up a larger autofocus area/point. I hope that helps :-)
@@lets_go_birding9096 Thanks for sharing your experience. Maybe I should go back and try the shutter release button again like you said. I agree that it is a much more ergonomic button to use. I didn't like the tiny AF-ON button either but got used to it. There are situations where the AF-ON button is more useful. For example, when I'm tracking a tern that flies left and right in front of me, I keep the AF-ON pressed the whole time as I'm tracking it, but only press the shutter button when it's flying toward me and close enough, and not when it's flying away from me. Does that make sense to do? In your settings, how do then you switch to using AF-ON or * button for no-subject-tracking, no-eye-detection because your shutter button is set to stock setting? Do you need to reprogram your shutter release button every time you want to switch to using your AF-ON or * button.
I’m confused about what you were saying about pixel density on the crop sensor. You’re saying there is a lower pixel density around the edges of thr sensor? Where did you learn this and where can I find supporting info about this? thanks.
I meant the pixel density is higher (pixels are more smashed together) in APS-C cameras. And unless you have an APS-C lens, then the periphery of the light coming onto the sensor is lost.
Those metering modes do matter for raw. Metering modes are how the camera determines the exposure and they can yield vastly different results! for example, try evaluative and spot. Spot metering uses only a small portion of the frame around the spot to meter, and ignores the rest. Evaluative, uses a much larger region of the frame to determine exposure, so you can get very different exposure settings using these two. Spot is great for getting proper exposure on white birds, for example. Shooting raw has nothing to do with exposure, however, so one definitely need to select the metering mode carefully. Evaluative is good most of the time.
Metering mode has no effect if you choose to ignore the meter. But if you aren't metering, how do you determine exposure? Guesswork? Experience? If experience, great, but even the most experienced usually need a starting point to get in the ballpark. Even if shooting, say, aperture priority, an experienced photographer will use exposure compensation to adjust for conditions. The right exposure is the right exposure. Doesn't matter how you got there, but a meter giving you inaccurate information can cause delay in getting there, or cause you to make erroneous decisions. Of course, with exposure simulation in mirrorless cameras, metering may become a lost art.
I have shot birds from 5 to 30 fps. One can get good results with all of them for birds. You simply get more options with higher fps. back in the day, we all shot the 5 to 10 fps and we still got good results.
For what its worth, I recently have spent a lot of time hanging out with a nesting pair of eagles who are raising an eaglet, as well as two red tail hawks. When the Eagles flying into the nest with a meal, even 12 frames per second isn't quite enough - you get to maybe three pictures at the critical moment (because of the tough background, I pre-focus on a big branch coming out of the side of the nest which works perfectly with regard to focus). 15 frames per second is better, but now that I'm shooting the R62, that 40 frames per second is absolutely amazing for this important moment, for I get 6 or 7 different positions, all of them usually sharp :-)
Minute 47 If the camera is set to Eliminate Flicker then some of the options related to: Silent Shutter and /or Elec Shutter dont work. Which is knid of problematic when shooting in a theater on stage. Tungsten - Halogen lamps, even when they flick the least, the problem is still there unless DC is used to feed the lamps. This issue is absent in Sony systems or I havent found it in a7Riii where Flicker and Silent / Shutter Mode are not "related" Of course for outdoor shooting this issue is absent, leaving only the one related to shutter rolling... So composition becomes a challenging goal, specially for flying birds with trees in the background .. or anything.. has to be fast.. Otherwise the feature of a high fps is defeated by definition; then, Why to spend on a body with high fps-E-shutter to shoot a sitting / standing by bird?
Hello, thank you for the comments. For bird photography and birds in flight, you really have to set the R7 to electronic first curtain + high-speed continuous plus. In this mode there will be no rolling shutter, no banding, and no shutter shock - no problems at all. And, your shooting in 15 frames per second, which is plenty fast for anything. That's a very popular camera for bird photography, and I still use it all the time when I'm shooting birds that I can't get that close to. If I can get close to birds and/or the light isn't that great (low light), then I use the R5; although, its autofocus system struggles with birds in flight - especially, when they flight across complicated backgrounds.
Sorry for the delay! Not exactly sure what you mean. If you want to automatically switch to card number 2, after card number 1 fills up, then go to wrench>#1>record function+card/folder sel. In this menu, you will see the "auto switch card" options. There's one for camera and there's one for the movie recorder mode. Just open that up and choose "auto switch card." Note that it doesn't always work, however. Sometimes you just need to restart the camera to get it to automatically switch. Hope that helped.
That's a great question! While it's true that the R7 cannot will write data to the card at 300mbps, only the fastest SD cards will allow you to achieve the R7 maximum write speed, which is around 185 mbps. If you try to use a card with a lower read/write speed (which will be cheaper), you will not achieve that 185mbps. There are several trustworthy websites out there that have actually tested many different SD cards in order to find the best one for the R7 and the 300mbps cards always are on top. Check out this link for more information: rfshooters.com/blog/cameras/canon-r7/memory-cards/
Just picked up a new R7 a few weeks ago. Have been pouring over the UA-cam videos looking for the best way to set it up for birding.your video for the R7 is the best and most informative one I have come across. I will be following more from you.!!Thanks!!
Thanks, John! I'm glad the video was helpful.
I'm 70 years old and new to photography, I have viewed many UA-cam videos to learn how to obtain good photos of birds in flight. This tutorial is so easy to follow I can't wait to get out and try these settings. Thank you so much for making this video, it has helped me immensely.
My pleasure :-) I am a graduate school professor of anatomy and physiology (my day job), so I get a lot of practice making complicated subjects more easily understood :-). Let us know how things go!
@@lets_go_birding9096 Thank you and yes I will let you know.
@@lets_go_birding9096 Hi, over the last two days I have tried your camera settings with great results! I have photographed a red kite and a buzzard in flight with good results despite the birds being very high. I have been using the screen to view my subjects, but today I tried your tip of actually using the view finder, wow what a difference. It is so much easier to focus and track birds in flight. Thank you once again for your tutorial, excellent! Phil
Just purchased the R7 & the RF 100-400 lens after after using a bridge camera for about 3 years.
Expensive birthday present..😂🎁
There is a great deal of tutorials on UA-cam about the R7 but yours has been a life saver, your breakdown of the camera is easy to follow & very accessible..📷👍.
I take my camera everywhere, even on the Ambulance as I’m a Paramedic based in Yorkshire, UK,🇬🇧.
You never know when there’s something interesting to snap..& I mean the wildlife not my patients..😮📷.
Thanks for your help..📷👍
I'm glad you found my videos helpful :-) Happy birding!
this video clearly stands out from other videos on eos r7 and by itself is sufficient to understand most of the eos R7 system. kudos for the great job of explaining the concepts very well and correlating between different aspects of the system rather than reading out a systems menu monologue
I return to this video again and again, it is so helpful. Thank you so much.
I'm Glad it has been helpful for you:-)
Top of the class Professor! Thanks for this video. Having just bought an R7 and off to Kenya in 9 days time, your video was invaluable and brilliantly presented.🤩
I'm so glad the video was helpful! Have a great time in Kenya!
Thank you so much for this comprehensive and clear tutorial. I've watched it all and changed the settings accordingly. Looking forward to try it tomorrow. Cheers !
i just got the R7 yesterday and took my first birps with the new Rf100-400 today. after coming back i and got the initial excitement out of the way i watch your video and its pure gold. cheers for making this. lots of functions i already knew but there were plenty i had no clue. i watched the entire thing and had my cam on the charger while setting it up as you suggest little by little while going through the different settings. i saw some shorter tutorials before but none of them made sense same way as yours. really nice. finally i know what first curtain actually is and not just use it because everybody says so. 😅
the amount of knowledge i got here is fanbloodytastic and i will get up as early i can to give the new knowledge a last chance to shine before i leave this mountain bird paradise place in china.
wish me luck. (not that i need after all the new settings) 😂
I'm glad the video was helpful. Good luck!
This guy is absolute Gold.
Thanks! I'm glad the video was helpful:-)
This presentation is awesome! It’s the most detailed of anything I’ve found on UA-cam. Thanks for putting it together. I learned a bunch of things I’m going to use on my R7
Hi, this is excellent. I just migratef frotm EOS R into R7. With your guiding this process was much easier. Now I have to wait for a good weather (more light) to check it in the field. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
This was a great tear down of the R7 menu for a beginner, thank you very much for the conent and work!
Glad it helped!
Excellent, informative video. I've been shooting the R7 for over a year and I still learned something, and now have the understanding (thanks to your video) to make changes confidently. Looking forward to trying them in the field.
I'm glad you found the video helpful. Let us know how things went :-)
Thanks very much for a great video..... from rural Africa. This is a lifesaver!
I'm so glad to help :-) I would love to see some pictures from rural Africa! I bet you have some crazy (and dangerous) creatures to take pictures of :-)
Absolutely brilliant explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
This was the best class on the Canon R7. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Super helpful with setting up my R7. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
Thank you very much for your work. I bought a Canon R7+ 18-150 and a Canon RF 600mm F11 lens. I also plan to buy a Canon 100-400mm. I learned from your videos, you explain very well and are a master of your craft. This camera is the pinnacle of technology. Before this I used a Canon 500d in auto mode. Now I have studied the manual mode and the Canon R7 camera. It's like heaven and earth!
Glad I could help!
@@lets_go_birding9096 Hello. Now I sold the 600mm f11 and bought a 100-400 and 200-800. The 200-800 has become my main lens, and I carry it with me from morning to evening.
Please tell me, what is your main camera? R5? Should me strive to buy a full frame camera? Sorry for my bad English.
very detailed and informative.. thanks for the info.. learnt a lot
Professor thank you. A great video guide. It helped me to understand my R7
I have to bookmark it.
God bless.
Glad it was helpful!
Now I can follow! Thank you!
great job! Thank you, Sir!
I very much appreciate your videos. I am 75 and have been marginally involved with photography for more that 55 years. My first camera was a Yashika with a f1.2. And, for my 50th birthday my wife gave me a trip to Kenya / Tansania, for which I needed to have a separate bag to carry all the film for the Nikon F5 and F100.
I am now in the process of moving to digital world. Your videos have been very beneficial and I can only imagine how much effort you put into preparing them, thanks!
My 2 questions are 1) regarding the customization of the buttons and dials. If I were to put the Direct AF Area Selection on the checkerboard button, will the checkerboard button loose the other functions that it does as default, i.e. being used in combination with the M-FN button to change the size of the AF boxes? And 2) is there a place that tells me if the button needs to be held to be engaged or if it is press and release to engage?
Very informative and accurate for my needs with my R7. I play your video at 1/2 speed and can do the step by step stetting adjustments well. :-) Thanx for this one because I am just getting the rf 100-500 and feel some of the points you made here will help me to set up my camera because I'm moving up from my ef f2.8 iii 70-200 with 2 times extender to the rf 100-500.
Glad it helped!
Nice video, great teaching, I'm getting a lot of information that is helpful and useful from this video. Thank you. This is a lot of work and time to set up all of these settings. If only the R7 would have the choice of saving the Custom settings like the R5 can, just for insurance just in case the camera settings might become erased.
Great video,Thank you very much.
On the "Release shutter without SD card" option, I think it is there so the camera is usable as a demo in the stores. It may help to sell the camera. I don't see them changing the default.
Thank you great tutorial.
Excellent detailed video. A big thank you for the effort
Interestingly on my R6 mk2 , I tried your suggestions for AF ON button to get ‘spot’
The only way I can override the cameras main menu items to search for an ‘animal’ is to select ‘subject to detect-None’ on the AF ON button submenu otherwise the camera tries to find an eye, body etc
I’ll be interested to see whether you notice this on the R8
My pleasure! Just ordered the R8. Should be interesting so see how that "subject tracking" works. Hopefully, it will stay inside the autofocus boxes boundaries. we shall see!
So it looks like you do not use Back Button focusing. I use BBF on the AF-On button, set to AF-eye, with subject tracking on, and usually, as you say, that is great. However, as you say, there are times when I want manual control of the focus square, and have it work like the old DSLR. Such as when I want to do a closeup of a flower or insect and choose the exact focal spot. People told me to set subject detection on/off to a button, but I could never tell if it was on or off, and it didn't seem to work.
After watching your excellent video, I have set the * to Metering and AF Start, and turned off subject tracking and set Spot AF in that Detail/Info area of that button From a quick test, it seems to be working! If this works, I am so excited, because I have been trying to find a quick way to escape from subject detection as needed!
If you want to re-center the AF box, you can double press the joystick and it snaps back to the center. It’s the same on the r5/6/3. Actually, my R7 jumps back to the center immediately upon a single press, not a double press! Just wanted to correct myself. Mine is not finicky like yours.
I literally just discovered this accidentally today after over a year with the camera. It made me come here thinking "what else am I missing?"
Wow I had my checker button (under the * button) set to recentre because I had no clue that this was possible. Maybe I can use the checker button for something more useful now.
Thanks for such a fantastic info.
Glad it was helpful!
Doug I've just stumbled on your channel and what an outstanding series of tutorials you have produced. I'm rewatching and digesting ALL the info in this video and the other two on the R7, and will undoubtedly have some questions and comments in the near future. I do at this point however have an answer for a question you asked at 36:17.
I also lament that (it appeared) you couldn't assign a button to switch between 'SHUTTER MODES'. At least between Elect. 1st-curtain and Electronic for when you'd like for ramp up from 15fps to 30fps and live with any 'rolling shutter' results that may eventuate.
Funnily you explained/showed what happens when 'silent shutter function' is selected, i.e. shutter mode changes from 'Elect. 1st-curtain' to 'Electronic' and is greyed out (50:50). Therefore based on THIS explanation, I've assigned a button (the 'DOF button') to turn 'Silent Shutter' OFF/ON which will switch between the two 'electronic' shutter modes. I previously modified and assigned the 'Q/set' button to 'DRIVE MODES', so that takes care of 'on-the-fly' changes to both Shutter and Drive modes using two buttons.
Excellent! The only problem I encountered is I can not set Electronic First Curtain...it was disabled and the only option I had was mechanical or fully electronic shutter. That is because Auto Level was set to ON, turn Auto Level off in order to get Electronic First Curtain shutter.
Thanks! Really good to know. That "auto level" causes all kinds of gremlins in that camera - I always have it off.
@@lets_go_birding9096 Yes I also always have auto-level off. I also store files as CRAW and not JPEG, eye tracking on, ISO Auto up to 6400...Topaz can handle the noise of ISO 6400 for most of my photos.
Thank you so much!
My pleasure:-)
thank you!!!!!!!
You're saying that the pixels are more spread out and less dense around the edges than in the center? I've never heard that before and I'm pretty sure the pixels are spread evenly across the sensor in a rectangle of exactly even proportions. I think each row horizontally and vertically has the same number of pixels as the next row
Thanks you for pointing this out:-) Yes, this is true. The point I was trying to make is that the pixels of APSC sensors are "more squished together" (higher pixel density) and smaller in size, compared to full frame sensors.
Great video.. thank you... great advice as well. Question... When you set the AF-ON button for Spot and subject tracking off. Could you also turn the eye detection and animal on for the same button and would it work? My thinking is you have a "spot" focus point without subject tracking so you can focus on bird between sticks.. and with eye and animal on same button it should also grab eye between sticks? Or am I thinking incorrectly? Thanks again!
Good question! You would think that the eye-tracking would grab the sticks just as easily as the subject tracking would. In the sticks, you only want the focus point to go where you tell it to and not hunt for anything.
Edit: I just tried it (enabling eye auto focus on the AF On button). I does not even engage and must be turned off when you turn off subject tracking.
What a great video!! One question however, you did not mention to change the behaviour of the shutter botton. If you keep it to "metering+AF" . . . it takes the AF settings in camera is in?
Thanks! I leave the metering+AF start on the shutter button which then uses the camera's menu settings. The AF-On button, when pressed and held, will over-ride the shutter button's settings, so set that up different (I set it to start start up spot AF and turn off tracking and detection.
At 1:28, the AF chooses the nearest eye to the box because you have eye detection on. It is following the rules perfectly. Nothing to do with tracking I believe
As good a tutorial as I have ever experienced. Well done Anthony
There are a few ap-s lenses for the r7. Canon released a few with the r7 and released a couple more with those other crop sensor bodies they released a few months ago.
not for birding (no super telephoto lens).
@@lets_go_birding9096 True, and there never will be, from Canon anyway. But with lenses like the RF 100-400, RF 600&800 f11, there is little reason to make any.
Great video. Very detailed. But I lost you at the end when you set your AF-ON button to Spot AF and Subject Tracking off. That's good for Spot AF. But I thought you are using back-button AF, aren't you? Then how do you shoot BIF when you want to use zone AF and subject tracking on?
Thanks. Because the recognition and subject tracking are so darn good in the EOS R7, R8, R10 and R62, I've stopped using back button focusing. Nowadays, I just Half-press the shutter button (stock setting) to start autofocus and full press and hold to take the picture. Once subject recognition has grabbed onto a bird, tracking will keep it locked on target - even if it goes outside of the boundaries of your autofocus area (a.k.a., autofocus point, autofocus box, autofocus method). Although its true when you release the full press you disengage autofocus, you can quickly half-press again to reacquire your target. I found its much easier to start autofocus with that big shutter button, compared to one of the tiny back buttons. When I'm in a situation where recognition and tracking just aren't working, Then I quickly need to turn off recognition and tracking so I can have an old school autofocus point/area/box where the autofocus system does not leave the perimeter of the box - usually spot focus is what I set up on the AF on button without any tracking or any recognition. On the star button, I will set that up so it also, when pushed down and held, disengages/stops recognition and tracking, as well as brings up a larger autofocus area/point. I hope that helps :-)
@@lets_go_birding9096 Thanks for sharing your experience. Maybe I should go back and try the shutter release button again like you said. I agree that it is a much more ergonomic button to use. I didn't like the tiny AF-ON button either but got used to it. There are situations where the AF-ON button is more useful. For example, when I'm tracking a tern that flies left and right in front of me, I keep the AF-ON pressed the whole time as I'm tracking it, but only press the shutter button when it's flying toward me and close enough, and not when it's flying away from me. Does that make sense to do?
In your settings, how do then you switch to using AF-ON or * button for no-subject-tracking, no-eye-detection because your shutter button is set to stock setting? Do you need to reprogram your shutter release button every time you want to switch to using your AF-ON or * button.
I’m confused about what you were saying about pixel density on the crop sensor. You’re saying there is a lower pixel density around the edges of thr sensor? Where did you learn this and where can I find supporting info about this? thanks.
I meant the pixel density is higher (pixels are more smashed together) in APS-C cameras. And unless you have an APS-C lens, then the periphery of the light coming onto the sensor is lost.
That's right.
@@lets_go_birding9096
Those metering modes do matter for raw. Metering modes are how the camera determines the exposure and they can yield vastly different results! for example, try evaluative and spot. Spot metering uses only a small portion of the frame around the spot to meter, and ignores the rest. Evaluative, uses a much larger region of the frame to determine exposure, so you can get very different exposure settings using these two. Spot is great for getting proper exposure on white birds, for example. Shooting raw has nothing to do with exposure, however, so one definitely need to select the metering mode carefully. Evaluative is good most of the time.
It is my understanding that they do not have any effect when you are shooting in manual mode.
@@lets_go_birding9096 They do! It’s metering mode for determining exposure. These are a big deal. More so than a lot of other settings.
Metering mode has no effect if you choose to ignore the meter. But if you aren't metering, how do you determine exposure? Guesswork? Experience? If experience, great, but even the most experienced usually need a starting point to get in the ballpark. Even if shooting, say, aperture priority, an experienced photographer will use exposure compensation to adjust for conditions. The right exposure is the right exposure. Doesn't matter how you got there, but a meter giving you inaccurate information can cause delay in getting there, or cause you to make erroneous decisions. Of course, with exposure simulation in mirrorless cameras, metering may become a lost art.
I have shot birds from 5 to 30 fps. One can get good results with all of them for birds. You simply get more options with higher fps. back in the day, we all shot the 5 to 10 fps and we still got good results.
For what its worth, I recently have spent a lot of time hanging out with a nesting pair of eagles who are raising an eaglet, as well as two red tail hawks. When the Eagles flying into the nest with a meal, even 12 frames per second isn't quite enough - you get to maybe three pictures at the critical moment (because of the tough background, I pre-focus on a big branch coming out of the side of the nest which works perfectly with regard to focus). 15 frames per second is better, but now that I'm shooting the R62, that 40 frames per second is absolutely amazing for this important moment, for I get 6 or 7 different positions, all of them usually sharp :-)
Minute 47
If the camera is set to Eliminate Flicker then some of the options related to: Silent Shutter and /or Elec Shutter dont work. Which is knid of problematic when shooting in a theater on stage. Tungsten - Halogen lamps, even when they flick the least, the problem is still there unless DC is used to feed the lamps.
This issue is absent in Sony systems or I havent found it in a7Riii where Flicker and Silent / Shutter Mode are not "related"
Of course for outdoor shooting this issue is absent, leaving only the one related to shutter rolling... So composition becomes a challenging goal, specially for flying birds with trees in the background .. or anything.. has to be fast.. Otherwise the feature of a high fps is defeated by definition; then, Why to spend on a body with high fps-E-shutter to shoot a sitting / standing by bird?
Hello, thank you for the comments. For bird photography and birds in flight, you really have to set the R7 to electronic first curtain + high-speed continuous plus. In this mode there will be no rolling shutter, no banding, and no shutter shock - no problems at all. And, your shooting in 15 frames per second, which is plenty fast for anything. That's a very popular camera for bird photography, and I still use it all the time when I'm shooting birds that I can't get that close to. If I can get close to birds and/or the light isn't that great (low light), then I use the R5; although, its autofocus system struggles with birds in flight - especially, when they flight across complicated backgrounds.
How do you switch between card number 1 and number 2
Sorry for the delay! Not exactly sure what you mean. If you want to automatically switch to card number 2, after card number 1 fills up, then go to wrench>#1>record function+card/folder sel. In this menu, you will see the "auto switch card" options. There's one for camera and there's one for the movie recorder mode. Just open that up and choose "auto switch card." Note that it doesn't always work, however. Sometimes you just need to restart the camera to get it to automatically switch. Hope that helped.
why pay extra for a 300meg write card when the R7 can only write at 185meg
That's a great question! While it's true that the R7 cannot will write data to the card at 300mbps, only the fastest SD cards will allow you to achieve the R7 maximum write speed, which is around 185 mbps. If you try to use a card with a lower read/write speed (which will be cheaper), you will not achieve that 185mbps. There are several trustworthy websites out there that have actually tested many different SD cards in order to find the best one for the R7 and the 300mbps cards always are on top. Check out this link for more information: rfshooters.com/blog/cameras/canon-r7/memory-cards/
@@lets_go_birding9096 thanks for the clarification