Відео

Thanks! Glad you liked it.

Thanks! I'm glad the video was helpful:-)

Thanks, John! I'm glad the video was helpful.

Glad you liked the video. Yes! I've three R5 Mark ii videos shot and am editing them as we speak. Hopefully, the first will be out in a few days. The R5M2 is an amazing camera for birding!

I'm glad the video was helpful:-) I've had some requests for a shootout involving that EF 300 f/4, but the R5 Mark ii came out and is now consuming time. Look for that EF 300 f/4 shoot out to come in the future.

I used several lens during that eagle season, but I think it was the canon EF 300mm f/2.8 IS ii + 2.0 tc mark 3.

Depends what your budget is. I'm shooting with the R5 Mark ii and can't put it down! Beats the R5 easily. On a budget, then I'd go with the EOS R7. EOS R6 Mark ii is nice too but it's more expensive than the R7 and only 24 mp :-(

I'm so glad the video was helpful! Have a great time in Kenya!

Hello, if you are using back button AF, you can't access/apply any of the other AF function, unless you put them on one of the back buttons (re-assign it). If you use front button AF, then you can access anything you want. I describe how to set that up in this updated R5 video: ua-cam.com/video/DKw5A9fE2M8/v-deo.html Go to the table of contents to find the front and back button AF setup.

Glad it helped!

I'm so glad the video helped!

You're very welcome! I'm glad my tutorial was helpful:-)

there are none lighter in the pro Canon lineup. The RF 100-300mm f/2 ($10,000) and RF 400mm f/2 ($12,000) are close to the same weight but crazy out-of-reach expensive, for most.

@@lets_go_birding9096 Yes sorry, I was thinking of other brands

Yes, Will also work just fine for sports. This is an older setup video and I have a new one (2024) that will show you two different setups: triple BACK button autofocus and triple FRONT button autofocus, which is what I use exclusively --no more back button autofocus for me. Check it out here (look in the table of contents and jump to autofocus setups): ua-cam.com/video/DKw5A9fE2M8/v-deo.html

Glad you enjoyed it!

I'm glad the video was helpful:-)

Respectfully, that setup can NOT produce even close to professional quality images and would be blown away by either the 400DO or 300L for wildlife:-)

I'm glad the video was helpful! My R5 mk2 should be hear next week!

Thanks for subbing!

So glad it helped!

@@lets_go_birding9096 These settings have helped so much with larger targets :) Unfortunately it's not picking up smaller targets like hummingbirds...any advice wood be greatly appreciated!

Not when it stops working, because it overheated:-)

Awesome, thank you!

So glad the video was helpful:-)

I do have a newer video on the R5 that describes two set up methods: Triple back button autofocus (which I no longer use) and, the more practical, triple front button autofocus which is the one I use exclusively these days. I suggest checking those out as well to see which method works best for you :-) studio.ua-cam.com/users/videoDKw5A9fE2M8/edit Just use the table of contents to find them - they are toward the end of the video, which is over an hour and 1/2.

I'm glad the video was helpful. In case you didn't know, I made a more updated and more comprehensive version of this video, which you can watch here: ua-cam.com/video/DKw5A9fE2M8/v-deo.html

I'm glad you liked the video. I would guess that your focal plane (the zone where things are in focus) is too shallow/narrow. Next time, try bumping your aperture (f number) up to something like f7.1 or f8. Remember, the closer you are to the bird(s), the narrower your focal plane will be so you have to compensate for that. Over the weekend I shot some goldfinch at very close range (10-15 feet). I set my aperture to f/8 thinking that would expand the focal plane enough to get the entire bird in focus. I was surprised to see that when the bird was looking at me and his tail was behind him, I still was not able to get the tail and back end of the bird sharp - only the face. I should've went up to F11 perhaps at that close of a range. So play around with your aperture and see if that fixes the problem. The other thing, make sure your shutter speed is high enough. I always shoot at 1/1200s for birds sitting on a perch - even with my rig on a monopod. So that could be another possible problem. Good luck!

@@lets_go_birding9096Thanks for the response.Will try as suggested and update on the outcome.

I'm glad you liked the video :-) The R6 Mii is an amazing camera. I'm sure you'll be super happy with it!

Hello. I half press the shutter button to start up my autofocus and then full press the shutter button to take a blast of pictures. Subject detection is always set to animals and I don't worry too much about eye detection, for it doesn't make much of a difference unless the bird is close enough where you can actually see the eye well. If you press the multi-controller straight in, that also starts up a face detection method of autofocus - I never use that, for I have found it to be inferior (doesn't track well) and unreliable (you can never tell when it will turn off). I am constantly changing those autofocus boxes (sometimes even when the bird is flying) to suit the situation I'm in. Of course, I assigned the multifunction but to do that job (MFn button). I sure hope that helps.

Thanks. Do you have an R5 mark ii setup in the works; it's a hot topic these days?

I appreciate the offer, but I am not interested.

Thank you! I'm glad you have found my videos helpful :-)

Last eagle season, before I had the 400 DO IS ii, I use the 300L IS ii with the 2.0 iii tele-converter all the time. I had no problems with shooting birds in flight with it and it lost very little image quality. This season, I almost exclusively used the 400 DO but never with the 2.0 tc, because there was, in my opinion, significantly more image quality loss with that set up. With regard to autofocusing, I really didn't have much problem with birds in flight. Both of these lenses struggle when shooting small birds in a noisy background. I constantly have to focus on the ground in front of the small bird and then refocus on the bird because the autofocus gets locked out into the distance and just always doesn't see the bird. Even the 100-500 rf f/7.1 has this problem, but not nearly as bad. Hope that helps:-)

@@lets_go_birding9096 appreciate the detailed response, and fantastic to hear the 300 does so well with 2x, i wouldn't have expected that. 1.4x is the max IQ deterioration i'm comfortable with on my v1 (this applies to AF confidence too). hear you on the small object AF; not sure what your setting are, but have found these couple things helps t his situ: turning off Continous AF, initial subject for priority, and both tracking sensitivity+accel/decel at -1. dialing those down has been a big win for me, for animals or humans, to avoid the unwanted searching/twitch. having BBF setup and toggling between the two AF options has been a legit combo for me. i was initially concerned with my mirrorless system, felt like my keeper ratio was lower than it should be, but once i started paying more attention to these settings, really renewed my faith in the RF system. regardless, thanks again for the vid here. likely going to proceed with the 300, seems to be the most versatile and portable, though either one of them likely be fantastic! appreciate it

@@lets_go_birding9096 oh, i do have another question, that might also be relevant to the small subject aspect of this convo: you find using the Focus Preset an invaluable feature on these lenses? or one of those things you can live without? my 300mm being older, this feature does not communicate with my mirrorless bodies and haven't actually utilized it before 😿 wondering if using PF button to initially lock on to smaller subject to get the focus 'most of the way there' would help counter some of this AF hunting? quite often, I'll just spin my MF ring when AF seems to get totally lost, and will say this is pretty helpful to point the AF in right direction and let it finalize focus (for context, it's prob my 100 Macro I do this the most). curious if in the field you find yourself using PF quite a bit, or just not a great way to mitigate this problem. sidenote: will say managing my minimum focusing distance options on my current 300 is perhaps an underestimated way to speed up/lock in your AF performance. i don't remember to fine-tune it every time, but there is def a notable difference in speed/lock if your shooting situ is favorable for specifying distances. (additionally, just wanted to spell this out for anyone researching these lenses at 2am with 20 tabs open lol, have found this to be more impactful than expected) thanks m8! and omg sorry for the long comments here, but getting pretty excited to finally make this upgrade and having hard time containing myself hahahaaa

My pleasure :-) it was a lot of fun making the video, and I'm glad you found it helpful.

Sorry, I don't understand what you're trying to say. However, if you put a full frame lens on a crop censored camera (like the EOS R7) the aperture remains the same and does not change unless you have to move back from the target (because of increase magnification) and increase the focal length. Only then does the aperture narrow but of increased focal distance from the target. In bird photography, you almost never have to physically move back from a bird, so an F4 lens on a crop censored body still has an F4 aperture. Not true, however, if you put a tele-converter on the lens. Then, your aperture is going to narrow, depending on the tele-converter. E.g. Put a 1.4 tc on an f4 lens and it becomes f5.6. Put a 2.0 tc on the f/4 lens, and now it becomes an f/8 lens.

Thank you so much for the nice compliments :-) I really appreciate them, and I'm glad my videos have been helpful:-)

I'm glad the video was helpful and you're going to absolutely love you EOS R5! Still my go to camera.

Yes, and they said just to send it back to Amazon which I did. The overheating thing along with the other problems I mentioned in the video prompted me not to repurchase it.

​@@lets_go_birding9096 Thanks for the update: I have this camera and have not yet had this issue. Shot both stills & video. If I due I will notify Canon & B&H Photo & you. Thanks 🚂

EDIT: I just checked the menus under both Info-Detail-Set and Register/recall shooting Function (camera with an arrow through it) and although they have a "subject to detect," you can't set it to quickly toggle between the three subject modes. Can only set it to one of these modes at a time. Tried setting the MFn button to do it, and there are no toggle option here either. So, you can't do it--at least with this current firmware. Hello, because I'm a wildlife photographer, I never have to toggle between these things, so I don't know of a way to assign a button to do that. I'm very familiar with the toggle menus and I don't ever recall seeing a button setting that will allow you to do that. Sorry about that.

The DOF button on the front of the camera has nothing to do with the depth of field settings that will affect the actual picture. You can only do that by changing your aperture (f number). Once pushed, the DOF button only shows you in the viewfinder what the true depth of field is going to look like at your current settings and not physically change the aperture.

I'm glad the 400 DO IS ii is working out so well for you. Even though I threatened to sell my 400 DO ( because it is not quite as sharp around the periphery of close-up birds ), I still just can't put it down and love it. I really don't see that much difference between the two (especially on birds that are further away) and because it is significantly lighter and shorter, I can't imagine ever getting rid of it:-)

I'm glad the video was helpful. However, please be aware that I did get rid of my R8 because of the overheating issues and some of the other issues I mentioned in my video explaining why I got rid of it. The R8 takes amazing pictures, but the overheating problem was just a dealbreaker for me. And yes, it can be set up exactly like the R7 and R5 (the R7 has almost the identical autofocus set up as the R8). The R5, which is my primary camera, doesn't have as many bells and whistles on the autofocus system, but it still works just fine once you get the hang of it and actually has more electronic autofocus points across the sensor compared to the other two.

Hi! Nope, I haven't tried it with the R3. Too much money for not enough megapixels for me:-)

I'm glad that's working for you. In my initial experiments, the R5 kicked the R7's butt with regard to sharpness, but that wasn't the thrust of my lens comparison video. I am working a video that will specifically compare the R7 and R5 using the 400DO.

i wanted to love the R7, it has great specs on paper. Rented one to test-drive it, and just couldn't enjoy it. The body was little smaller than expected and had a funny effect on my muscle memory. Shooting the R5/R6 so much, I didn't realize how dependent I'd become on having 3rd wheel for camera control. these ergonomic factors weren't a deal-breaker but certainly noticeable. Where it became obvious I wouldn't purchase one was the image quality. didn't expect this, but anything beyond about iso 1600 had far more deterioration than i was comfortable with, and it wasn't anything that Topaz or LR Denoise could rectify. Perhaps it was just the copy of it i was using, but the concerns floating around the internet about the unexplained softness/shutter slap were very real for me. found myself hyper-overshooting to make sure I got 1 sharp one out of a burst of 20. I've always been sensitve to overshooting anyways, for it just creates such a waste of editing time along with hard drive management. Hopefully your R7 better than the one I rented, it was really rough in this regard. for a pure daylight camera with reasonable expectations, will say it's an attractive body for ~$1000. Goal of this rental was to see if it was a good fit as my 3rd body, and ultimately bought another R6 for about the same money. Just wasn't quite comfortable enough to bring some of these variables into my workflow. Hoping to see the R7 II firm up some of these details, for historically, the 7-series bodies from Canon have always punched above their weight imo.