Thank you so much for your assistance! I purchased a Kizer Roach with the G10 scales and the VG-10 blade. The seller said it was carried and showed wear, but when I got it, it was like new. When I opened it, I found out why he sold it. I actually thought they were wrong, that it was on washers instead of bearings because the action was so stiff. I followed instructions from Jake at Canadian Cutting Edge on adjusting the lock bar, and you helped me cut my first detent ramp. It looked almost identical inside as your Sheepdog XL, except the bearings where single row black as you stated. I am very happy with it now, the detent ramp was sorely needed. Thank you!
That's why I love Twosun they do it on all there knives...they care about us simple folk..you beat me to the punch...I still might do this in a video soon if you dont mind...to some of my budget knives..excellent addition that all knives should have..thank you...
@@OCD4EDC A little different than yours..I use three files..all triangular start with a bastard cut than mill smooth and finish with a diamond coated..finish off with 600 grit paper..of course I'm not sure if this method will work but i do something similar at my work for ramping in fitted parts for alignment reasons and works really well..that said i think it would work really well for knives too..of course your way is quicker and also depends on the Rockwell if its above 62 i would would only be able to use the diamond. The files I use are called jewelers files used for finishing and deburring of parts..
How would I fix a liner-lock / flipper that has a stiff detent- making it very difficult to press the flipper & engage the blade? (would making a ramp help?) - everything on the knife is great, the action is smooth and the pivot is not too tight. - Have you ever bent a liner lock back to "relieve" the tension on it? hopefully lessening the detent when the knife is closed so that it engages easier? Thanks !
Of course you can bend the lock bar over to relieve some of the tension. Generally speaking, if the rest of the action is good, then the lock bar tension is likely not your problem. If that was the problem the blade would have excessive drag everywhere throughout it's travel. If the problem is only that the flipper is very difficult to actuate. You either have a knife with bad flipper geometry (not all knives are created equal) or more often your detent ball is set just a bit TOO proud of the lock bar. Or you have a very sharp edge/burr around the detent hole in the blade. Both results in the ball being deeper or held tighter into the corresponding hole, making it very hard to lift the ball out when trying to flip the blade. Without seeing it I cannot tell you what the problem is for sure. But you can either lower the detent ball into the lock bar (this is very tedious) I wouldn't recommend messing with it, unless you are very confident in your abilities. The other thing is to remove the sharp edge/corner of the detent hole. This is a bit more forgiving, but still very easy to get wrong. By messing with these things you can create detent rock, very weak detent or poor flipping action. The detent on a liner/frame lock knife is a very precise system that has to be tuned properly for everything to work correctly. If this is an expensive knife and you're not comfortable doing this work. I would suggest having it done by someone that knows. I would be more than happy to help you out. Just let me know. I hope this helps, sorry I cannot just tell you exactly what the problem is. But without seeing the knife it's impossible for me to know. Thanks a lot for watching!!!
@@OCD4EDC Thanks man, I do really appreciate the response & suggestions. The knife is a $30 Harnds "wind" btw, so I am engaging it with the "not all knives are created equal" state of mind; but like some of the other newer nice 'budget' Chinese brands, it is built with surprisingly good materials/tolerances and features. So I took it apart and looked everything over and while the springing is bit over-tensioned on the liner lock IMO, I think you are indeed correct that the problem lies in the way that the detent ball sits in it's corresponding hole. The detent ball shows about 65% when not engaged, (if that makes sense)- When the knife is in the closed position, the detent ball is almost entirely inside the hole, as much as it can be, making the liner-lock and the blade almost flush/w no gap. When I go to flip the tab, it's taking a lot of pressure to get it out of that hole . You had suggested that there may be a burr or edge around the hole from production- Lets say it has a 90 degree edge: I'm going to try to file that edge down, ever so slightly, so that when I activate the blade the detent ball has just a tiny bit less of a 'sharp' angle to overcome. -- This may be a case where I'm expecting a bit too much performance out of a $30 dollar knife, but at the same time, everything else on it is smooth and well machined.- I'll try 'softening' that edge a tiny bit and if it doesn't work I'll live with it. I'll let you know how it turns out... -- Maybe I can do quick before & after videos with my phone- do you have an email address to send them to if you want to take a look? (Or for me to send a video of the problem too if I end up not wanting to mess with it myself, but still want have it fixed/looked at. - THANKS!)
Awesome video brother. I’ve never thought about doing a DIY detent ramp. One of those, “Why didn’t I think of that?!” kind of deals. Pure stroke of genius! Haha. I will definitely be giving this a try. But I think I’ll start on some cheapies for practice first before I start mutilating knives I actually like. Ha. Oh yeah, and I as well was sent by Gerald(aka Outpost 76).
Thanks for the sub and great comment. Yeah I started with cheap knives as well, just be steady, it's honestly very easy, just takes a little practice. Thanks again.
watch Hawaii Knife and Gear, did it his way, worked great, less risk of taking too much steel off blade, the diamond files come in a variety of shapes to make the ramp more rounded for the ball detent to ride up on the blade, Amazon $10
Would it make sense to put a ramp on the detent ball hole, to make the knife easier to open? I have a carbon fiber frame lock knife, so I can't just bend the lock bar to reduce the tension.
You can for sure make a softer detent by ever so slightly knocking the edge off of the hole in the blade. Be very gentle & precise. The difference between an non existent detent and one that's really stiff, is very very minimal. Honestly the best way is to just let it break in, because it's super easy to ruin the knife by messing with the detent hole. Good Luck, Thanks for watching!
You got any ideas about how to fortify strengthen a detent? I’ve tried to expand detent holes with careful drilling in some flippers but this does not improve detent enough to help flipping... laconic keen, Keizer vaginino. Have a spyderco or two which would benefit from stronger detent.
Yes, there are ways to increase the detent strength. I will do a video on this subject soon. The only way increasing the size of the detent hole will increase the strength, is if the ball does not fully seat into the hole. If it does fully seat, then increasing the size of the hole will decrease the strength. So the approach really depends on each situation. Thanks for watching!!!
Hi ocd! I wanted to ask if there is a method in making the detent tighter? i noticed that when my knife is closed it has a slight wiggle, i doubt there is an easy fix for this but just curious if you have experience with this?
@@OCD4EDC excited for it! noticed my explanation wasn't very specific, the wiggling was up and down while closed, right before engaging the detent on my flipper knife i noticed it would inch ever so slightly forward before deploying.
watch Hawaii Knife And Gear, I did it his was, worked great, and much less risk of taking too much steel off blade, the diamond files come in a variety of shapes to make the ramp more rounded for the ball detent to ride up on the blade. Got files from Amazon, $10
I'm glad you were able to find a way that suits you. I on the other hand do not have the time diamond files would take for properly heat treated steel. Hope you're enjoying the hobby, thanks for watching!
Don’t blame the rabbit! Rabbits can’t fart, which is why you have to be careful feeding them cabbage and other “farty” veggies. Don’t want Mr. Bunny to esplode.
Thank you so much for your assistance! I purchased a Kizer Roach with the G10 scales and the VG-10 blade.
The seller said it was carried and showed wear, but when I got it, it was like new. When I opened it, I found out why he sold it.
I actually thought they were wrong, that it was on washers instead of bearings because the action was so stiff.
I followed instructions from Jake at Canadian Cutting Edge on adjusting the lock bar, and you helped me cut my first detent ramp. It looked almost identical inside as your Sheepdog XL, except the bearings where single row black as you stated.
I am very happy with it now, the detent ramp was sorely needed.
Thank you!
1000 Thanks. Not enough folks are posting about this process or about detent for folders. Great production. Subscribed.
Thanks for watching & the Sub!!!!
Very cool. Happy wife, happy life 👊👊👊
No doubt, thanks for watching!!!
Absolutely great. Never enjoy my knife more than after than doing this ty.
That's why I love Twosun they do it on all there knives...they care about us simple folk..you beat me to the punch...I still might do this in a video soon if you dont mind...to some of my budget knives..excellent addition that all knives should have..thank you...
For sure, I'd love to see your method.
I agree, detente ramps should be on every knife with a detente ball!!!
Thanks again
@@OCD4EDC A little different than yours..I use three files..all triangular start with a bastard cut than mill smooth and finish with a diamond coated..finish off with 600 grit paper..of course I'm not sure if this method will work but i do something similar at my work for ramping in fitted parts for alignment reasons and works really well..that said i think it would work really well for knives too..of course your way is quicker and also depends on the Rockwell if its above 62 i would would only be able to use the diamond. The files I use are called jewelers files used for finishing and deburring of parts..
Yeah I don't mind at all. I'll for sure watch!!
Great video ! Thanks for sharing 1
Thanks for the kind words.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it, Thanks for watching!
How would I fix a liner-lock / flipper that has a stiff detent- making it very difficult to press the flipper & engage the blade? (would making a ramp help?) - everything on the knife is great, the action is smooth and the pivot is not too tight. - Have you ever bent a liner lock back to "relieve" the tension on it? hopefully lessening the detent when the knife is closed so that it engages easier? Thanks !
Of course you can bend the lock bar over to relieve some of the tension. Generally speaking, if the rest of the action is good, then the lock bar tension is likely not your problem. If that was the problem the blade would have excessive drag everywhere throughout it's travel. If the problem is only that the flipper is very difficult to actuate. You either have a knife with bad flipper geometry (not all knives are created equal) or more often your detent ball is set just a bit TOO proud of the lock bar. Or you have a very sharp edge/burr around the detent hole in the blade. Both results in the ball being deeper or held tighter into the corresponding hole, making it very hard to lift the ball out when trying to flip the blade.
Without seeing it I cannot tell you what the problem is for sure. But you can either lower the detent ball into the lock bar (this is very tedious) I wouldn't recommend messing with it, unless you are very confident in your abilities. The other thing is to remove the sharp edge/corner of the detent hole. This is a bit more forgiving, but still very easy to get wrong. By messing with these things you can create detent rock, very weak detent or poor flipping action. The detent on a liner/frame lock knife is a very precise system that has to be tuned properly for everything to work correctly. If this is an expensive knife and you're not comfortable doing this work. I would suggest having it done by someone that knows. I would be more than happy to help you out. Just let me know.
I hope this helps, sorry I cannot just tell you exactly what the problem is. But without seeing the knife it's impossible for me to know.
Thanks a lot for watching!!!
@@OCD4EDC Thanks man, I do really appreciate the response & suggestions. The knife is a $30 Harnds "wind" btw, so I am engaging it with the "not all knives are created equal" state of mind; but like some of the other newer nice 'budget' Chinese brands, it is built with surprisingly good materials/tolerances and features. So I took it apart and looked everything over and while the springing is bit over-tensioned on the liner lock IMO, I think you are indeed correct that the problem lies in the way that the detent ball sits in it's corresponding hole. The detent ball shows about 65% when not engaged, (if that makes sense)- When the knife is in the closed position, the detent ball is almost entirely inside the hole, as much as it can be, making the liner-lock and the blade almost flush/w no gap. When I go to flip the tab, it's taking a lot of pressure to get it out of that hole
. You had suggested that there may be a burr or edge around the hole from production- Lets say it has a 90 degree edge: I'm going to try to file that edge down, ever so slightly, so that when I activate the blade the detent ball has just a tiny bit less of a 'sharp' angle to overcome. -- This may be a case where I'm expecting a bit too much performance out of a $30 dollar knife, but at the same time, everything else on it is smooth and well machined.- I'll try 'softening' that edge a tiny bit and if it doesn't work I'll live with it. I'll let you know how it turns out... -- Maybe I can do quick before & after videos with my phone- do you have an email address to send them to if you want to take a look? (Or for me to send a video of the problem too if I end up not wanting to mess with it myself, but still want have it fixed/looked at. - THANKS!)
@@OCD4EDC If you use IG I guess that's easier for sending videos, I'll check for that...
Awesome video brother. I’ve never thought about doing a DIY detent ramp. One of those, “Why didn’t I think of that?!” kind of deals. Pure stroke of genius! Haha. I will definitely be giving this a try. But I think I’ll start on some cheapies for practice first before I start mutilating knives I actually like. Ha. Oh yeah, and I as well was sent by Gerald(aka Outpost 76).
Thanks for the sub and great comment. Yeah I started with cheap knives as well, just be steady, it's honestly very easy, just takes a little practice. Thanks again.
Thanks for a very informative vid. Getting ready to do this on my Kaiser Sliver. Hope it helps the action. Subscribed.
watch Hawaii Knife and Gear, did it his way, worked great, less risk of taking too much steel off blade, the diamond files come in a variety of shapes to make the ramp more rounded for the ball detent to ride up on the blade, Amazon $10
Where can get NAME of your anodizing guy .have scales to ano..? ? Please help.
I'll send you an email with that info!!! Thanks for watching!!!
Very cool thanks.
Would it make sense to put a ramp on the detent ball hole, to make the knife easier to open? I have a carbon fiber frame lock knife, so I can't just bend the lock bar to reduce the tension.
You can for sure make a softer detent by ever so slightly knocking the edge off of the hole in the blade. Be very gentle & precise. The difference between an non existent detent and one that's really stiff, is very very minimal. Honestly the best way is to just let it break in, because it's super easy to ruin the knife by messing with the detent hole. Good Luck, Thanks for watching!
@@OCD4EDC Alright, I'll take your advice and let it break in a bit more before I mess with it. Thanks 👊🏽
You got any ideas about how to fortify strengthen a detent? I’ve tried to expand detent holes with careful drilling in some flippers but this does not improve detent enough to help flipping... laconic keen, Keizer vaginino. Have a spyderco or two which would benefit from stronger detent.
Yes, there are ways to increase the detent strength. I will do a video on this subject soon. The only way increasing the size of the detent hole will increase the strength, is if the ball does not fully seat into the hole.
If it does fully seat, then increasing the size of the hole will decrease the strength. So the approach really depends on each situation. Thanks for watching!!!
My Pare 3 has too much detent. Very hard flip, any thoughts on how to lessen a detent?
Hi ocd! I wanted to ask if there is a method in making the detent tighter? i noticed that when my knife is closed it has a slight wiggle, i doubt there is an easy fix for this but just curious if you have experience with this?
I do, I'll post a video on this topic soon. Stay Tuned! Thanks for watching.
@@OCD4EDC excited for it! noticed my explanation wasn't very specific, the wiggling was up and down while closed, right before engaging the detent on my flipper knife i noticed it would inch ever so slightly forward before deploying.
I need to do this on my Zero Tolerance ZT 0804CF.
Thanks for the video my Bladed Brother 👍 ⚔️ ✝️ 🇺🇲
Any time
Damn....I can feel the grit from my house.
watch Hawaii Knife And Gear, I did it his was, worked great, and much less risk of taking too much steel off blade, the diamond files come in a variety of shapes to make the ramp more rounded for the ball detent to ride up on the blade. Got files from Amazon, $10
I'm glad you were able to find a way that suits you. I on the other hand do not have the time diamond files would take for properly heat treated steel. Hope you're enjoying the hobby, thanks for watching!
A secret to free dropping blade ;)? 💮
Yes Sir, Thanks for watching!!!
You have good content brother..inspire me to do better..
Thanks for watching and the kind words!!!
Nice work. New sub.. thanks outpost 76. 👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the sub and comment.
Nice work! Outpost 76 sent me!
Thanks for the sub and the complement.
Don’t blame the rabbit! Rabbits can’t fart, which is why you have to be careful feeding them cabbage and other “farty” veggies. Don’t want Mr. Bunny to esplode.
That is a big baby...
Hey OCD... Stassa sent me to you to check out.
That's Awesome, Nick is a great guy!!!
Thanks for watching, hope you enjoy'ed it!!!
You should have just told her it’s like that so you don’t slam the blade down on your fingers..
V"7