I've gotten an almost glass smooth finish on a few mando helmets with this method. It takes a bit of precaution with a respirator, eye protection, and a well ventilated working area, but the results are incredible. Not as quick as the wood filler method but I don't think you could get the same results from it.
Acetone can dissolve some plastics, like PET (but not PETG), HIPS, TPU (if soaked for an extended period), and ABS. The surface of some plastics will slightly melt and turn glossy just from exposure to acetone fumes. Mixing the acetone with the filler likely improves bonding of the filler with the surface of the material, for some plastics.
Another option is uv curable resin, paint it on, hit it with a UV flashlight. Also needs a respirator and fan since you need to do it indoors away from windows but way faster than waiting for wood filler or bondo to properly cure.
Thank you so much for creating this video! I have been debating whether or not it would be beneficial to spend the extra money on Bondo Spot Putty, or if I should keep using the cheap wood filler that I already have. Great test!
I love your videos. One thing that always stands out to me watching people work on printed parts, how much labor is out it to get the results. I come from the auto body industry and there so many better products and ways of smoothing out surfaces with about 70-80% less labor…
Being that I have been doing cosplay armor for over 5 years with 3d prints I can tell you this. If your gonna wear it dont use wood filler, it breaks, cracks and falls off if knocked around. Spot buddy last much longer. I have helmets that are 4 years old and been through a lot and no issues like with wood filler.
There are a ton of two part epoxy products or UV resin, they’re self-leveling and if applied correctly on a piece like this could even get away without sanding. So those are always my go to’s the last 10+ years.
they're also way more expensive. I guess it comes down to how much time is spent, but I've found I can do a wood putty fill to finish paint fairly quickly.
If the part is printed in abs, sure. PLA and PETG aren't affected by acetone the same way. I've seen some alcohol based smoothing PLA from polymaker but had mixed results with quality and durability.
Please don't sand PLA or any plastics outside. All you are doing is directly adding microplastics into the environment. Sand onto a cleanable surface and collect as much of the dust as you can and either melt it or lock it into something solid.
Winning combo: wood filler plus hard enamel paint.
what kind of enamel paint are we talkin? I'm tryna smooth my prints too.
I use a sponge brush and uv resin
I've gotten an almost glass smooth finish on a few mando helmets with this method. It takes a bit of precaution with a respirator, eye protection, and a well ventilated working area, but the results are incredible. Not as quick as the wood filler method but I don't think you could get the same results from it.
Tamiya plastic putty works amazing as well
Acetone can dissolve some plastics, like PET (but not PETG), HIPS, TPU (if soaked for an extended period), and ABS. The surface of some plastics will slightly melt and turn glossy just from exposure to acetone fumes. Mixing the acetone with the filler likely improves bonding of the filler with the surface of the material, for some plastics.
Will IT have any negative effects on PLA?
@@Demoniczny09 It will degrade PLA, and easily make the surface tacky/sticky, but it won't dissolve it.
@@Demoniczny09 Not really. I've done this on PLA many times with good results
Another option is uv curable resin, paint it on, hit it with a UV flashlight. Also needs a respirator and fan since you need to do it indoors away from windows but way faster than waiting for wood filler or bondo to properly cure.
Thanks for short. Good info!
Thank you so much for creating this video! I have been debating whether or not it would be beneficial to spend the extra money on Bondo Spot Putty, or if I should keep using the cheap wood filler that I already have. Great test!
I love your videos. One thing that always stands out to me watching people work on printed parts, how much labor is out it to get the results. I come from the auto body industry and there so many better products and ways of smoothing out surfaces with about 70-80% less labor…
care to share? i'd like to do some tests
Well we are waiting
It’s always so hard to find out which products to use
What products u fuck head!!!
Fantastic comparison!
Being that I have been doing cosplay armor for over 5 years with 3d prints I can tell you this. If your gonna wear it dont use wood filler, it breaks, cracks and falls off if knocked around. Spot buddy last much longer. I have helmets that are 4 years old and been through a lot and no issues like with wood filler.
There are a ton of two part epoxy products or UV resin, they’re self-leveling and if applied correctly on a piece like this could even get away without sanding. So those are always my go to’s the last 10+ years.
they're also way more expensive. I guess it comes down to how much time is spent, but I've found I can do a wood putty fill to finish paint fairly quickly.
More cool 3d printing hacks plz this was very interesting
I would love to see a video where you show all the tools and techniques you use for your 3d printing project
She has one
Thank for the info
Try ABS 3D printer resin brushed on then sanded.
Can you mix water with the wood filler to make it more easier to put on? I have a ABS print so acetone is a no go for me-
You could test some 2 part products. Like original bondo.
Also the fumes are the best part! Lol
I don’t get the point why woodfiller should be less durable if at the end you put primer and paint on it anyway.
If woodfiler is softer could be compressed easy if you bump on something compared to Bondo that you get a harder surface
@ But with all the layers on top I’m not sure. Also kinda flexing is normal for paint etc. , see car paint.
Thank you for the comparison video. Keep up the great content!
Awesome thanks. Great comparison.
Would the wood putty work on a resin cast as well? I don't have a 3D printer but have a cast that could use some touchups.
Is resin coating not worth it?
Did i completely mess up by buying a large paint can of primer instead of spray on primer? Cuz its really seeming like i did
Depends on the value and how you use it
You definitely have more product in your purchase
Have you tried filling layer lines kn something smaller like a miniature?
Thanks.
why not just print in abs then use acitone
Nice looking knee guards
Bondo putty shrinks 😢 I know this well from doing auto restoration
The best is smoothOn
none of the above. use 3d printing resin, paint the piece, then cure in a uv lamp or outside in the sun.
1. I can buy in my city, 2. I can't so it's no brainer for me 😅
❤❤👍👍👍❤❤
Use science. Acetone vapor will smooth the edges with no effort.
This is a great method for ABS, but this tut is about PLA!
@universeofemily it should work for both.
I use bondo all the time and never once did i need gloves or a respirator. And safety glasses? Seriously.
Just love those toxic fumes! 😬
Also be careful with acetone on anything other than PLA, mainly ABS since it can dissolve it
Or just mist it with acetone.. and don't bother so much
If the part is printed in abs, sure. PLA and PETG aren't affected by acetone the same way. I've seen some alcohol based smoothing PLA from polymaker but had mixed results with quality and durability.
@@IanDouglas that is not pla but pvb
When thinning bondo. Don’t use a thinner like that. Use fiberglass resin.
You want to use fiberglass resin to thin bondo? Wat?
There's also Acetone Smoothing, which Josef Prusa has a short video about on his channel
Yes, as in the 3D printer company, Prusa
This is a great method for ABS! This is a PLA focused tutorial though
She kinda looks like extra Emily
U definitely shouldn't mix acetone with either of these if you want them to actually hold
Please don't sand PLA or any plastics outside. All you are doing is directly adding microplastics into the environment. Sand onto a cleanable surface and collect as much of the dust as you can and either melt it or lock it into something solid.
Being water soluble mean you're putting microplastics in the water supply. Please don't do that, it's one of the hardest things to filter out
Non water solubile forever chemicals are indeed the better choice..
Bs