I'm grateful to have this training on how to fit new Sig sights. But what I'm confused about is why you would lock in the sights before you brought it to the range and sighted the gun in for accuracy. What happens it it's shooting left or right? You have to break your thread locker. Why not wait until after a range session when they are adjusted to lock them in?
Nice video. Very helpful. I'm about to install these on two carry guns. But I will center them by measuring, not eyeballing. Amazing how much "zeroing" time can be saved or avoided by taking care to make sure sights are precisely centered on the slide (and therefore on the bore axis).
Front sight on my P365 was a bear to get off. It took a fair amount of filing to get the new sight to fit and then took some strong encouragement with a ball pien applied to a nylon mallet to get it into place. I don't think I'm going to beat it out to put threadlocker on it.
Had same problems with my 365. If I rember correctly the instructions said to aplly the treadlockerto the sides of the front sight after it's mounted and let it leech under the sight, then remove excess. Don't wanna take mine back off either.
If I remeber correctly dove tail is tapered and removing is torwards ejection port direction. So from top view sight is tap from left to right, there should be resistamce.
If you use a micrometer, you can make sure the sights are perfectly centered. This is a carry pistol, not a precision competition race gun, so you really don't need to go too crazy.
@JenkemODby pretending to know more about firearms than you actually do and trying to make someone else look bad you completely showed your ass. as you said it’s elementary knowledge 😂😂
False. You said “shouldn’t you sight your gun at the range before you use thread locker on the rear sight?”. You did not say “centered doesn’t mean perfectly sighted in”. The difference between these two is one is a question where you seem to be asking for advice and the other is a statement you are now making and since you have lied about what you said the rest of your argument is null. You have made yourself look like a fool. Good day mam.
Wouldn't it make more sense to put on the thread locking compound before you install the sight? Thread lockers are not glue and from my understanding only are activated by shear stress, such as that caused by wedging the compound in between threads.
It really doesn't matter. There are pro's and cons to both methods. Applying it before the install can drive a lot of the adhesive out of the cavity and you will still end up adding more afterward. The key is to let it rest and seep into all the empty cavities on the dovetail angles. When in doubt, use more :)
@@XSsightSystems Nice video. But if you're going to apply the Loctite after assembly then you should use a "wicking grade" like the 290, specifically designed with a lower viscosity to use on assembled parts. Regular grade (blue or red) Loctite should be applied before assembly.
you're right, thread lock compound is for threads - and tight spaces and offers very little hold on the exterior. it's bound by compressive strength, not putting it on the exterior.
If it can "seep in" then some will stay in place if applied first. As far as "driving a lot of it out " and having to clean the excess, you have to do that anyway, especially considering the amount of product you used. As far as the installation video itself, Thank you for posting it. Seeing someone else do it without a sight-pushing tool, gives the rest of us the confidence to do it with common tools ourselves. 😉
I too am concerned about how loose the rear sight fits. Red thread locker works great but the correct way to remove anything assembled with thread locker is to heat the parts. When you shoot the pistol the slide may get warm enough to make the thread locker ineffective.
Hello, the red thread locker has heat resistance up 450 F. Our standard product testing consists of 1,000 shoot test in 15-minutes. The pistol slide heat tops out at 300 F and is not sustainable and drops quickly. We have taken sights through 5,000 consecutive round shoot test. You will be good to go. Sorry for the long reply, I was one who drew the short straw and had to do the shooting test :)
If you could have turned your volume up the video would have been much easier to listen to. Nice presentation, well done, I just had to max out my computer to hear what you had to say.
I have a new P320 3.6 Pro Cut Slide that I put suppressor Height Sights on. The rear was cake to remove and install with a sight pusher tool, but I can’t get the stock front sight out for the life of me with a punch! Yours came out so easy, why is mine so difficult? Help!
Is this just regular red thread locker? I have a 4 pairs of your sights for my p365 customs and one of the pistols front sight keeps moving whenever I take it shooting.
Quick update. I let red loctite 271 soak in for about 10 minutes in the front sight. I let it cure for 40 hours and today I shot 200 rounds without an issue. Sight stayed in place.
I run XS Big Dots on all of my handguns but on my P320sc the Big Dots hit 2" to 2.5" high at 7 yards. Guess I should have went with the Standard Dot instead of the Big Dot.
We filed them to fit that way. We don't crush our sights into the dove tail like our competitors. The locking compound does a great job at sealing the sight in.
Good video, of XS installation (which I do own on several firearms ‘Big Dot’. But could hear the hammering of the punch very well, the instructor’s voice it’s self was soft and hard to hear even when at full volume.
Did you not remove one way and reinstall other way? You might find no material needed to remove if removed and installed same way it’s supposed to come out.
Plan on getting XS sights for my Glock G30S and Sig P320C. Why not place a drop of thread locker in the dovetails and/or bottom of sights before sliding them in place? Is it o.k./advisable to do that?
You can test shoot the firearm before applying the thread locker, but risk the sight coming off. The red thread locker is not too strong and will allow you to be able to make adjustments. After you make adjustments, apply more thread locker. We recommend a brass punch or a delrin block. Both are available at Brownells.
It isnt too hard, just don't us a ton of thread locker for the first shoot. You should easily be able to visually center them for the initial install and then make minor adjustments from there.
Why would you use red threadlocker? You may have to adjust those sights being that you have not sighted the weapon. Red is very difficult to remove. Generally it is used for permanent applications. I always use blue on projects like this.
If you center the sights with the slide during instillation the sights are technically zeroed. If i is shooting right or left for you after the sights are dead centered on the slide you can adjust the rear accordingly to your shooting style. Make sure before you drift the sight in any direction to have a buddy or range office try your pistols to see if the zero is the problem. It could be trigger pull technique.
The Sig tritium sights are pretty good if you're in need of nigh sights, and actually have a larger dot when using the tritium in dark area than the Trijicon HD series. The Trijicon sights are very good and the HD series or the HDXR sights are best rated. XR is fairly new. They are exactly the same as the HD with a thinner front sight. They both use the same rear sight..Tritium on these sights are as bright as the Sig but smaller dot, however, they seem to be more focused because they use a lens on them.. Sig does NOT recommended to use a punch on the P320 as some of them are extremely tight in the groove. You could damage the sight or the slide itself if you try to use a punch..
@Joe Lindley Joe I have a Maryland Gun Works (MGW) SP1000 sight tool. I have the original version of the tool. Looks like there are some newer versions. It's a little expensive (about $300, maybe less now) but it will work with just about ANY semi automatic pistol out there. This is a rock solid tool. The tool uses specific "shoes" to accommodate different brands and models which fit into the slides to lock them into place on the tool. It works great for even very slight adjustments and will move even the most stubborn sights. I would not suggest using wood or plastic drifts and a hammer. These 320 sights can be hard to move and you'll likely end up with a damaged sight if you do.. And there's no way to make precision adjustments like that.. The tool will pay for itself if you have a number of guns that you want to change or adjust sights on. There is a vid "Installing TruGlo TFX Sights on a P320" #245 that shows the MGW SP1000 Sight Pro tool that I use.
200mm will work. Honestly we use a wide variety. When going slow and test fitting the sight after every swipe, it doesn't matter too much of which size you use. Just make sure to apply pressure evenly when dragging the sight down the file and don't go crazy when pressing down. You can always remove more material, but can't add it back.
Per Sig yes it matters ... when looking at slide from the rear they are to be knocked out from right to left the reinstalled from left to right. Sigs have a taper on the right side and knocking it through that taper would not be good
Yeah uh there's no way in hell you'll get a factory installed front sight on a P320 to come out that easily by "tapping" a punch against the sight.. I'm willing to bet that sight was previously removed numerous times. And why not just dunk the slide into thread lock! I wouldn't let this dude anywhere near my guns!
What is the right direction? Towards the case ejecting side or the opposite? Might be getting a red dot on my sig p320 full size and will have to install the outerimpact plate on the back site. Though I'm a bit confused because the back site doesnt appear to have screw holes or screws...so not sure how that red dot plate will work...
Nice video. I had to use a jackhammer to get my factory front sight out. Zeus loosened it first with Thor's hammer.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Use a propane torch . Just heat it slightly. Don’t over heat.
😂 I still haven’t gotten mine out
I'm grateful to have this training on how to fit new Sig sights. But what I'm confused about is why you would lock in the sights before you brought it to the range and sighted the gun in for accuracy. What happens it it's shooting left or right? You have to break your thread locker. Why not wait until after a range session when they are adjusted to lock them in?
Nice video. Very helpful. I'm about to install these on two carry guns. But I will center them by measuring, not eyeballing. Amazing how much "zeroing" time can be saved or avoided by taking care to make sure sights are precisely centered on the slide (and therefore on the bore axis).
Front sight on my P365 was a bear to get off. It took a fair amount of filing to get the new sight to fit and then took some strong encouragement with a ball pien applied to a nylon mallet to get it into place. I don't think I'm going to beat it out to put threadlocker on it.
Had same problems with my 365. If I rember correctly the instructions said to aplly the treadlockerto the sides of the front sight after it's mounted and let it leech under the sight, then remove excess. Don't wanna take mine back off either.
If I remeber correctly dove tail is tapered and removing is torwards ejection port direction. So from top view sight is tap from left to right, there should be resistamce.
To remove, tap the right side (when looking at the back of the slide).To insert tap the left side (when looking at the back of the slide).
So who is right?
@@BINX-RR so opposite of comment above u?
@@philyamascunt7518 exactly......
Shouldn’t you sight your gun at the range before you use thread locker on the rear sight?
If you use a micrometer, you can make sure the sights are perfectly centered. This is a carry pistol, not a precision competition race gun, so you really don't need to go too crazy.
@Robert Taylor Lol bud it's a handgun. There's no adjustment for windage or elevation. You center the sights. This is very basic handgun knowledge.
@JenkemODby pretending to know more about firearms than you actually do and trying to make someone else look bad you completely showed your ass. as you said it’s elementary knowledge 😂😂
False. You said “shouldn’t you sight your gun at the range before you use thread locker on the rear sight?”. You did not say “centered doesn’t mean perfectly sighted in”. The difference between these two is one is a question where you seem to be asking for advice and the other is a statement you are now making and since you have lied about what you said the rest of your argument is null. You have made yourself look like a fool. Good day mam.
@JenkemODYour username makes your comment much funnier
Wouldn't it make more sense to put on the thread locking compound before you install the sight? Thread lockers are not glue and from my understanding only are activated by shear stress, such as that caused by wedging the compound in between threads.
It really doesn't matter. There are pro's and cons to both methods. Applying it before the install can drive a lot of the adhesive out of the cavity and you will still end up adding more afterward. The key is to let it rest and seep into all the empty cavities on the dovetail angles. When in doubt, use more :)
@@XSsightSystems Nice video. But if you're going to apply the Loctite after assembly then you should use a "wicking grade" like the 290, specifically designed with a lower viscosity to use on assembled parts. Regular grade (blue or red) Loctite should be applied before assembly.
you're right, thread lock compound is for threads - and tight spaces and offers very little hold on the exterior. it's bound by compressive strength, not putting it on the exterior.
This is what I thought. Putting locking compound on after seems to negate it’s purpose.
If it can "seep in" then some will stay in place if applied first. As far as "driving a lot of it out " and having to clean the excess, you have to do that anyway, especially considering the amount of product you used. As far as the installation video itself, Thank you for posting it. Seeing someone else do it without a sight-pushing tool, gives the rest of us the confidence to do it with common tools ourselves. 😉
Clean off the XS excess, or the excess from your XS! Great products! I have the F8 set on a Glock 17.
I too am concerned about how loose the rear sight fits. Red thread locker works great but the correct way to remove anything assembled with thread locker is to heat the parts. When you shoot the pistol the slide may get warm enough to make the thread locker ineffective.
Hello, the red thread locker has heat resistance up 450 F. Our standard product testing consists of 1,000 shoot test in 15-minutes. The pistol slide heat tops out at 300 F and is not sustainable and drops quickly.
We have taken sights through 5,000 consecutive round shoot test. You will be good to go.
Sorry for the long reply, I was one who drew the short straw and had to do the shooting test :)
@@XSsightSystemsshooting is the short straw? You guys hiring?
If you could have turned your volume up the video would have been much easier to listen to. Nice presentation, well done, I just had to max out my computer to hear what you had to say.
how ya gonna zero it now, all loctited up?
Looks like it went it too easy is it tight enough
This video needs to be updated. It is over 7 years old now.
I have a new P320 3.6 Pro Cut Slide that I put suppressor Height Sights on. The rear was cake to remove and install with a sight pusher tool, but I can’t get the stock front sight out for the life of me with a punch! Yours came out so easy, why is mine so difficult? Help!
Great video thanks
Is this just regular red thread locker? I have a 4 pairs of your sights for my p365 customs and one of the pistols front sight keeps moving whenever I take it shooting.
Quick update. I let red loctite 271 soak in for about 10 minutes in the front sight. I let it cure for 40 hours and today I shot 200 rounds without an issue. Sight stayed in place.
Perfect video - thank-you!
I run XS Big Dots on all of my handguns but on my P320sc the Big Dots hit 2" to 2.5" high at 7 yards. Guess I should have went with the Standard Dot instead of the Big Dot.
I feel like those sights are very very loose, you hardly put any effort to drive the front sights in
We filed them to fit that way. We don't crush our sights into the dove tail like our competitors. The locking compound does a great job at sealing the sight in.
@@XSsightSystems Does the locking compound make the removal difficult or impossible in the future?
@@kalosh007 No, it is still removable.
Too loose, if your sights move it could get you killed.
kalosh007no because it’s steel with a liquid sealant glue. Just like in vehicles when they use red lock tight
Good video, of XS installation (which I do own on several firearms ‘Big Dot’. But could hear the hammering of the punch very well, the instructor’s voice it’s self was soft and hard to hear even when at full volume.
Why would you threadlock prior to sight adjustment?
Did you not remove one way and reinstall other way? You might find no material needed to remove if removed and installed same way it’s supposed to come out.
Plan on getting XS sights for my Glock G30S and Sig P320C. Why not place a drop of thread locker in the dovetails and/or bottom of sights before sliding them in place? Is it o.k./advisable to do that?
You can do that. It doesn't hurt. More than one way to do it :)
don't you shoot it a few times before putting the thread locker in the rear sight? or won't the srews hold for that ??
You can test shoot the firearm before applying the thread locker, but risk the sight coming off. The red thread locker is not too strong and will allow you to be able to make adjustments. After you make adjustments, apply more thread locker.
We recommend a brass punch or a delrin block. Both are available at Brownells.
How would we know if it’s properly centered ?
Why not put the locking compound into the dovetail first & then slide in the sight?
That's what I thought. Have I been using threadlocker all wrong for the last 36 years?
How hard is it to adjust your sight when sighting in your pistol with that thread locker while at the range?
It isnt too hard, just don't us a ton of thread locker for the first shoot. You should easily be able to visually center them for the initial install and then make minor adjustments from there.
XS Sights thank you very much.
Did you make that tool that you used to tap out the original front sight? If not, where did you get it?
Yeah mine did not fit like that. Ended up having to buy a different brand.
What king of gun?
Why would you use red threadlocker? You may have to adjust those sights being that you have not sighted the weapon. Red is very difficult to remove. Generally it is used for permanent applications. I always use blue on projects like this.
Rear seems to slide in too easil no tension but the set screws will do the job I guess
Love the steel punch you used ,where do I find one
Mark Bidwell Its the plastic one that used to come with their sight kits
You can find one in just about any junk yard!
Just sig with the green sights on it, they are not straight at all and I can't move them I have tried.How did you know to file yours fist ?
Hey Garry, I didn't fully understand your message. Can you give us a call at 888-744-4880 and we will get you fixed up.
Thx for the detailed video!
Do u need to zero the sights? Is so how?
Cheers!
If you center the sights with the slide during instillation the sights are technically zeroed. If i is shooting right or left for you after the sights are dead centered on the slide you can adjust the rear accordingly to your shooting style. Make sure before you drift the sight in any direction to have a buddy or range office try your pistols to see if the zero is the problem. It could be trigger pull technique.
XS Sights thx! I appreciate it!
Why not adjust for windage at the range before applying the thread locker to the rear sight?
I'm guessing they're too loose from his method of tapping. And by the time you shoot it'll shift after the recoil.
about to buy a p320 without night sights. How much are they and what brads are best. I've never replaced any sights on my pistols
They are about $125 on our site if you get the tritium front/rear (DXT Model)
The Sig tritium sights are pretty good if you're in need of nigh sights, and actually have a larger dot when using the tritium in dark area than the Trijicon HD series. The Trijicon sights are very good and the HD series or the HDXR sights are best rated. XR is fairly new. They are exactly the same as the HD with a thinner front sight. They both use the same rear sight..Tritium on these sights are as bright as the Sig but smaller dot, however, they seem to be more focused because they use a lens on them.. Sig does NOT recommended to use a punch on the P320 as some of them are extremely tight in the groove. You could damage the sight or the slide itself if you try to use a punch..
@Joe Lindley Joe I have a Maryland Gun Works (MGW) SP1000 sight tool. I have the original version of the tool. Looks like there are some newer versions. It's a little expensive (about $300, maybe less now) but it will work with just about ANY semi automatic pistol out there. This is a rock solid tool. The tool uses specific "shoes" to accommodate different brands and models which fit into the slides to lock them into place on the tool. It works great for even very slight adjustments and will move even the most stubborn sights. I would not suggest using wood or plastic drifts and a hammer. These 320 sights can be hard to move and you'll likely end up with a damaged sight if you do.. And there's no way to make precision adjustments like that.. The tool will pay for itself if you have a number of guns that you want to change or adjust sights on. There is a vid "Installing TruGlo TFX Sights on a P320" #245 that shows the MGW SP1000 Sight Pro tool that I use.
What type of file did you use or suggest? 200mm?
200mm will work. Honestly we use a wide variety. When going slow and test fitting the sight after every swipe, it doesn't matter too much of which size you use. Just make sure to apply pressure evenly when dragging the sight down the file and don't go crazy when pressing down. You can always remove more material, but can't add it back.
Does it matter which side you knock the sight out and reinstall them from. Left to right only? Right to left? or it doesn't matter?
No not for Sig's and Springfield's.
Per Sig yes it matters ... when looking at slide from the rear they are to be knocked out from right to left the reinstalled from left to right.
Sigs have a taper on the right side and knocking it through that taper would not be good
@@chrisimes478 thanks for that just bought a set and every one wants 50 to 75 to install going to do this myself
@@MichaelSmith-cq4zk how did it turn out?
@@striker101nicary turned out great no problems
What is your front sight height
Audio sucks info was great !
Yeah uh there's no way in hell you'll get a factory installed front sight on a P320 to come out that easily by "tapping" a punch against the sight.. I'm willing to bet that sight was previously removed numerous times. And why not just dunk the slide into thread lock! I wouldn't let this dude anywhere near my guns!
LMAO this! Can't believe people thought this was a good vid. Damn fudd with the loctite.
Wtf? First, don't hit your pistol with a hammer!!! 2nd, don't grind away material. It was made to fit in extremely tight
Audio sucks turn up the volume!
Big oof bro. you removed the sights the wrong direction. thats why the next ones were loose.
What is the right direction? Towards the case ejecting side or the opposite? Might be getting a red dot on my sig p320 full size and will have to install the outerimpact plate on the back site. Though I'm a bit confused because the back site doesnt appear to have screw holes or screws...so not sure how that red dot plate will work...
Dude put worse sights on lol
Very poor audio