The side vents are actually counterproductive. Essentially what you're doing is drawing air from inside the camper into the air conditioner which will then get blown out of the camper. That air has to be replaced somehow and it's going to be replaced by drawing hot air in from outside the camper.
This is great Matt! You're going to help a lot of people with this. Luckily, I ended up with a 10SS and bypassed the issue. I hear from people almost daily about what a nightmare this can be and how BC offers little to no help fixing it. You made it easy to follow and very approachable for folks to try. Awesome work, happy subscriber!
I can't tell you how much I appreciate this video! We just a Free Solo OG, which is the exact same thing as the Bushwacker 10FB. We live in Louisiana and took it up to the Ouachita mountains in Arkansas this past weekend and we're so very disappointed with the AC because after about 5 minutes it was start blowing air that was not cool. This is really disappointing because we got this camper with the AC as the main reason for the purchase. I was getting curious but luckily my wife got in touch with you on Facebook and he saw this video and you really helped her out and I am so glad about this! We ordered everything that you suggested and got to do it the way you did it and waiting for the parts to come in this weekend. You have no idea how much we appreciate you taking the time to make this video because it's going to make all the difference in the world for us. I subscribed to your channel and I'll add you to my Facebook. Thank you so much and it is such an awesome video and you did such a great job on explaining things so very thorough and clearly. We live in Bossier City Louisiana I don't know where the part of Texas you're in but maybe we can go camping together sometime.
Awesome! You'll be super happy with the AC after this mod. I keep blankets in my camper now cause it gets cold at night! It makes such a huge improvement. Glad you found it useful!
Thank you so much. We have a 2021 10FB and the AC setup was identical. My husband had already removed insulation from the airflow vents and had been working on increasing flow. With your video AC unit is working as it should. And that's a blessing on these 100°+ days we've been having in Kentucky! Thank you again!
For the purposes of this project it doesn't really matter but just wanted to point out that the external air circulation side and internal air circulation size of the air conditioner are separated from each other. No air from the outside is getting blown into the inside of the camper. Basically you have a heat exchanger on the inside and a heat exchanger on the outside with a phase change fluid flowing between them which conducts the heat from one side to the other.
@@OutdoorTXs exactly. Then the fluid that runs through that coil which has been condensed is pumped back through the inside coil. In that coil it evaporates and that phase change from a liquid to a gas is what allows it to absorb the heat. It's the same thing as your house air conditioner where you got a unit on the outside and a unit on the inside they just happen to be stuck together with a wall unit.
@@OutdoorTXs yeah absolutely. I have no idea how that design actually made it to production. There's no way that just sticking the air conditioner in a box with a couple of vents will work.
I see this mistake all the time.. As the Top and side vents are fresh air across the rear coil.. Why these have to be sealed off from the inside. As the inside cools the air by pulling hot across the front coil. Then carries that heat to the rear.. While releasing the cooled air back out the top vents.... Why understanding they work is key..As they don't make cold air. They remove heat..
Thanks a lot for the perfect video bro! I did everything except for the fans (for now) and it worked awesome! The AC went from shutting off after about five minutes to now running all night and keeping us cool down here in South Florida 🤙
Thanks for this. I have a NuCamp T@G 2015. it's basically the same set up.I just want my AC to cool without the compressor constantly kicking on and off all night long. This will help. I am in Texas, too.
Nice job ! I will note, though, the side vents added on the cabinet cause the AC to work like a single-tube portable air conditioner rather than an efficient dual tube. It might seem as though the unit is pulling in interior cool air into the rear condenser coil to help it, but what’s actually happening is that the interior air that the AC is trying to cool down is being sucked into the rear unit fan and pushed outside. This creates a negative interior air space. At this point, outside hot air will find its way into the trailer and the AC will just constantly be working hard to cool the air down. This may help the AC run cooler and not overheat if the exterior air supply and hot hair exhaust ducts are not working properly but the AC will be running inefficiently either way, it’ll make a great spot-cooler and that’s just fine if you’ve got shorepower to plug into or unlimited pockets for gasoline money for your generator. Lol. Ultimate goal is to get the exterior air fresh inlet ducts and hot air exhaust ducts working as efficiently as ever possible. This will allow that air conditioner to work as designed and mechanically efficiently as possible and pave the way to making all day solar powered cooling totally possible.
@@OutdoorTXs Yep. Either way, you don’t want the exterior air exchanging with your interior air that you’re wanting the AC to cool. Allowing the AC condenser side (rear fan) to suck your interior air outside will introduce another form of inefficiency.
@@stevey500 I'm alittle confused. The rear of the AC is exhaust, and is sealed off from the intakes. The AC has side vents that are pulling fresh air in from small ducts out the side of the trailer. It doesn't pull much air on, so the added vents inside the cabin allow more air flow into the intakes. Maybe not the perfect conditions for a window unit AC, but it's not hanging out of a window lol. It blows ice cold, and the compressor isn't constantly on. It's 100 times better than it was, that's for sure.
It seems like the inside air is staying in, and the outside air is staying out, or did I miss something. The intake is the side vents, and the exhaust is the bottom, and it looks like the simple mod is separating those functions, versus trying to get the A/C to do that on it's own. Not an HVAC guy, so I don't know.
@@shannonswyatt The AC is trying to exhaust hot air out, and pull in fresh air via the intakes, but the factory set up allows the hot exhaust air to be pulled back in via the intakes. This prevents the AC from cooling like it should, and would only blow cool air, not cold air. The mod separates exhaust from intake, and the added fans help move the hot air out of the trailer, allowing the AC to perform much, much better.
Good video, but I don't understand the reason for the side fans. It seems best if the the return air side is fed strictly with outside air. Did those help with cooling?
Looking back, im not sure the side vents are necessary. Your probably correct that the outside air is enough. The manufacture started adding the side vents on the later model trailers after mine. I had called to complain about the AC issues, and they had sent me a set of vents prior to me doing this mod, so I just put them in.
hey Matt, you will be a life saver! it was our first weekend in our free solo OG and we were so disappointed about AC, do you main to share the link for the 2 vents in the sides of the cabinet please? thanks (I'm ready to make the full order in amazon) THANKS again
Hey Andrea! Ive got all the parts listed here, along with other mods and stuff. This mad such a difference. Keep a blanket in there, cause it will freeze you out at night lol - www.outdoortxs.com/project-list-ac-mod
That's not exactly true, but close. Your point, however, is right. The air that comes through the filtered vents in front of the ac is the only air where heat is removed and returned to the room. The air that comes in through the sides and top (what should be on the outside of the trailer) gets blown over the hot coils and dispersed as "exhaust." The problem with these types of installs are mainly three fold: The restricted air flow on what should be outside the trailer makes the unit work less efficiently. In your case the "exhaust" is being pulled back over itself thus not getting rid of the heat. Secondly, they're usually not installed properly to let condensation drain properly. This leads to water inside the rv which is never as much fun as it sounds. Lastly, it's in a box. This will make it louder when the compressor kicks in just like those useless portable units. They create lower pressure in the room because they literally suck the air out of the room. To get the most bang for your buck, install the unit through a hole in the camper as if the hole were a window. Build a frame inside to support the weight. Caulk and seal were needed. Let the unit work the way it's supposed to and move on with your life. Cheers!
The only reason you'll need the AC is if it's hot outside. So wouldn't blocking off the outside vents not allowing hot air inside and installing the 4" vents inside be better?
the side vents take in air, to blow it across and cool the coils in the the rear of the ac. It comes in, and blows right back out the back. As long as you use the foam to seal around the top and sides and of the AC, and have the fans in place to blow the exhausted air out the bottom of the trailer, everything should work great. The AC will be getting enough intake to do its job, and exhaust the hot air out of the trailer. Remember, this AC was designed to be hanging outside a window. The entire rear is usually outside.
Good video bro. Curious. How do I know if I have a 10ss or not ? Just got my 2021 about 2 weeks ago. Cools fine but I’m sure this would help…..appreciate the reply
The SS model has the AC in the wall, and a single door. I don't think the SS has this issue, as the rear of the AC is able to vent out the wall of the trailer. 👍
I have a MyPod and it came from the factory with this sort of setup. They also included a switch for the fans. I may have to upgrade them soon but unfortunately whoever rebuilt the cabinets installed the AC unit and screwed it into place behind a wall that they nailed in. When something fails it will be quite an ordeal getting the AC unit out
I used 90MM fans, but it appears they no longer have them in 90mm. The link now shows the 120mm, which will still fit and work. They will move more air, so might only need 2 instead of 4 like I used.
I only have the max air flow on top but I wanted to find a small rv roof unit. The smallest I was able to find was the Dometic Duo Therm Brisk II Air. It weights 55 pounds. Do you think the weight would hold up?
As far as I know, the bushwacker has a weight capacy of 300lbs on the rack. But, the rack is mounted to frame, I'm not sure what weight capacity is on top of the actual roof of the trailer.
Im thinking of buying a 2021 used Bushwacker. How essential is the AC? Would the ceiling fan be enough to keep it cool at night? on most NY STATE summer nights
In New York state you'd probably be okay with the vent fan. If you set the fan blowing out and open a couple of windows, it really pulls a lot of air through the trailer. If you were down south like in Texas, the AC would be essential in the summer.
Matt, I'm having this trouble with with an ok schooner camper I just bought. My ac is up above the area yours is. I'm thinking about doing the same but a little different. I live in Mansfield Texas.Do you still have your camper?
I actually picked up the AC at my local HomeDepot store. Its a Toshiba 6000btu window unit. Here is the link for Homedepot - www.homedepot.com/p/Toshiba-6-000-BTU-115-Volt-Window-Air-Conditioner-with-Remote-in-White-RAC-WK0612CRRU/311290372
The AC has a drip tray underneath, that will catch the condensation and drain it down through the same hole the hot air is exhausted, out the bottom of the trailer. You may need to raise the tongue jack, so the trailer is slightly tilted towards the rear, so water will flow back towards the drain.
You tilt it down towards the rear...Just be aware. Some units have a sling fan. They repurpose the condensation into a tray. Then it will sling it across the rear coil to carry the heat away...There more efficient..
They added top vents on some of the newer models but it still has the bottom vent as well. You might try these mods if yours isn't cooling like it should.
@@ChrisCookTech I've got a 19", which fits pretty well over the center cabinet. Ive got another vid on a firestick install where you see the fitment. 👍
@@OutdoorTXs I'm sure it does.. But it's still not right. As the Vents use fresh air from Outside.. Not use the air you just cooled. As you would just be spinning your wheels.. Just ask any HVAC tech.. They know what their doing. As I was not so full of pride to not ask a professional how too do mine.. And the first thing he said was. Make sure you don't stop and just turn these on. As the oil in the compressor gets splashed around. You have to give it time to settle again. As there not designed to be rattling down the road then used. Why these things fail so fast. And then they blame the factory for using Cheap AC units.. Good Luck..
@@WizzRacing lol what?! The vents pull in outside air to blow over the coils to cool them, and then it's eshausted out the back of the unit. All this usually happens outside, as these units are made to hang outside a window. The front intake takes in air and and blows it back out after being cooled. You can disagree or consult all the HVAC tech you want. All I know is my AC works 100 times better than before and blows ice cold, and I know of plenty of others who have had the same success. If you don't agree, and want to seal your vents off, great! Do what you want. Good luck to you!
@@OutdoorTXs You're not listening.. Them side hole in your cabinet are drawing in Cooled air. Then into the side vents that are designed for "Outside Air" So not sure you understand. Unless you cut the video short. And covered up them side holes..
@@WizzRacing Oh lol. You said side and top vents in your first comment, I thought you were referring to the outside, side vents. The interiour side vents actually move very little air. You could prob seal them, but eh. It works just fine as is.I did this like 2 years ago, and its been working great ever since.
The side vents are actually counterproductive. Essentially what you're doing is drawing air from inside the camper into the air conditioner which will then get blown out of the camper. That air has to be replaced somehow and it's going to be replaced by drawing hot air in from outside the camper.
This is great Matt! You're going to help a lot of people with this. Luckily, I ended up with a 10SS and bypassed the issue. I hear from people almost daily about what a nightmare this can be and how BC offers little to no help fixing it. You made it easy to follow and very approachable for folks to try. Awesome work, happy subscriber!
I appreciate that buddy!!
I can't tell you how much I appreciate this video! We just a Free Solo OG, which is the exact same thing as the Bushwacker 10FB. We live in Louisiana and took it up to the Ouachita mountains in Arkansas this past weekend and we're so very disappointed with the AC because after about 5 minutes it was start blowing air that was not cool. This is really disappointing because we got this camper with the AC as the main reason for the purchase. I was getting curious but luckily my wife got in touch with you on Facebook and he saw this video and you really helped her out and I am so glad about this! We ordered everything that you suggested and got to do it the way you did it and waiting for the parts to come in this weekend. You have no idea how much we appreciate you taking the time to make this video because it's going to make all the difference in the world for us. I subscribed to your channel and I'll add you to my Facebook. Thank you so much and it is such an awesome video and you did such a great job on explaining things so very thorough and clearly. We live in Bossier City Louisiana I don't know where the part of Texas you're in but maybe we can go camping together sometime.
Awesome! You'll be super happy with the AC after this mod. I keep blankets in my camper now cause it gets cold at night! It makes such a huge improvement. Glad you found it useful!
Thank you so much. We have a 2021 10FB and the AC setup was identical. My husband had already removed insulation from the airflow vents and had been working on increasing flow. With your video AC unit is working as it should. And that's a blessing on these 100°+ days we've been having in Kentucky! Thank you again!
So glad you guys got it working! It's so much nicer when things work like they should!
For the purposes of this project it doesn't really matter but just wanted to point out that the external air circulation side and internal air circulation size of the air conditioner are separated from each other. No air from the outside is getting blown into the inside of the camper. Basically you have a heat exchanger on the inside and a heat exchanger on the outside with a phase change fluid flowing between them which conducts the heat from one side to the other.
That makes sense, thanks for pointing that out. The outside air is passed through the exchanger, to cool the coils, and passed back out as exhaust?
@@OutdoorTXs exactly. Then the fluid that runs through that coil which has been condensed is pumped back through the inside coil. In that coil it evaporates and that phase change from a liquid to a gas is what allows it to absorb the heat. It's the same thing as your house air conditioner where you got a unit on the outside and a unit on the inside they just happen to be stuck together with a wall unit.
@@DoRC got it! Thanks for clarifying that! Like you said, this modification is still 100% improvement, just a little off on my explanation. 😅
@@OutdoorTXs yeah absolutely. I have no idea how that design actually made it to production. There's no way that just sticking the air conditioner in a box with a couple of vents will work.
I see this mistake all the time.. As the Top and side vents are fresh air across the rear coil.. Why these have to be sealed off from the inside. As the inside cools the air by pulling hot across the front coil. Then carries that heat to the rear.. While releasing the cooled air back out the top vents....
Why understanding they work is key..As they don't make cold air. They remove heat..
Thank you for sharing Matt, very helpful to all of us, you always are.
Thank You! Happy to help!
Thank yiu for this awesome video and parts list. I'm so proud to say I did it myself and tge air conditioner works now! You are awesome!
That's great! I'm glad you found it helpful!!
Thanks a lot for the perfect video bro! I did everything except for the fans (for now) and it worked awesome! The AC went from shutting off after about five minutes to now running all night and keeping us cool down here in South Florida 🤙
I love to hear it! The AC was one of the selling points when I bought my trailer. When it did work right, I couldn't let that slide! Lol
So in other words, the side fans weren't needed? In my thinking, inside air should not be mixed with the outside air flow.
Thanks for this. I have a NuCamp T@G 2015. it's basically the same set up.I just want my AC to cool without the compressor constantly kicking on and off all night long. This will help. I am in Texas, too.
Oh nice! These Texas summers are no joke! 😂 I've seen the inside of the t@g models, and I'm sure this would work for you too.
Great video Matt!
Thanks!
Nice job !
I will note, though, the side vents added on the cabinet cause the AC to work like a single-tube portable air conditioner rather than an efficient dual tube.
It might seem as though the unit is pulling in interior cool air into the rear condenser coil to help it, but what’s actually happening is that the interior air that the AC is trying to cool down is being sucked into the rear unit fan and pushed outside. This creates a negative interior air space. At this point, outside hot air will find its way into the trailer and the AC will just constantly be working hard to cool the air down. This may help the AC run cooler and not overheat if the exterior air supply and hot hair exhaust ducts are not working properly but the AC will be running inefficiently either way, it’ll make a great spot-cooler and that’s just fine if you’ve got shorepower to plug into or unlimited pockets for gasoline money for your generator. Lol.
Ultimate goal is to get the exterior air fresh inlet ducts and hot air exhaust ducts working as efficiently as ever possible. This will allow that air conditioner to work as designed and mechanically efficiently as possible and pave the way to making all day solar powered cooling totally possible.
Isn't "outside out air" and "exterior fresh air" the same thing?
@@OutdoorTXs Yep.
Either way, you don’t want the exterior air exchanging with your interior air that you’re wanting the AC to cool. Allowing the AC condenser side (rear fan) to suck your interior air outside will introduce another form of inefficiency.
@@stevey500 I'm alittle confused. The rear of the AC is exhaust, and is sealed off from the intakes. The AC has side vents that are pulling fresh air in from small ducts out the side of the trailer. It doesn't pull much air on, so the added vents inside the cabin allow more air flow into the intakes. Maybe not the perfect conditions for a window unit AC, but it's not hanging out of a window lol. It blows ice cold, and the compressor isn't constantly on. It's 100 times better than it was, that's for sure.
It seems like the inside air is staying in, and the outside air is staying out, or did I miss something. The intake is the side vents, and the exhaust is the bottom, and it looks like the simple mod is separating those functions, versus trying to get the A/C to do that on it's own. Not an HVAC guy, so I don't know.
@@shannonswyatt The AC is trying to exhaust hot air out, and pull in fresh air via the intakes, but the factory set up allows the hot exhaust air to be pulled back in via the intakes. This prevents the AC from cooling like it should, and would only blow cool air, not cold air. The mod separates exhaust from intake, and the added fans help move the hot air out of the trailer, allowing the AC to perform much, much better.
where does the ac drain out on the bottom and how big is the drain hole for it. Thanks great video
The condensation drains out the same slot the hot air exits the trailer. The slot runs down through the trailer, and has a mesh screen on the bottom.
I like your solution. I'm working on a design now, and was wondering the best way use a house A/C unit.
Wow I also have the same trailer. I am going to do that to mine. Thanks for the video south Texas.🤙
Absolutely! Took my trailer down to South Texas a couple years ago, and it was brutal! Glad the AC was blowing cold!
Good video, but I don't understand the reason for the side fans. It seems best if the the return air side is fed strictly with outside air. Did those help with cooling?
Looking back, im not sure the side vents are necessary. Your probably correct that the outside air is enough. The manufacture started adding the side vents on the later model trailers after mine. I had called to complain about the AC issues, and they had sent me a set of vents prior to me doing this mod, so I just put them in.
@OutdoorTXs Yes, it's kinda sad that we have to re-engineer and modify brand new campers! You're video is good though, and thanks for the reply.
@@LeeKobe1 Thank you! I appreciate it!
hey Matt, you will be a life saver!
it was our first weekend in our free solo OG and we were so disappointed about AC, do you main to share the link for the 2 vents in the sides of the cabinet please? thanks (I'm ready to make the full order in amazon) THANKS again
Hey Andrea! Ive got all the parts listed here, along with other mods and stuff. This mad such a difference. Keep a blanket in there, cause it will freeze you out at night lol - www.outdoortxs.com/project-list-ac-mod
@@OutdoorTXs thats awesome!!! THANKS! (I'm looking forward for the blanket! 😍)
Did you ask about the link on the fire stick video? I got the notification of a comment, but it's not showing up on the video lol.
That's not exactly true, but close. Your point, however, is right. The air that comes through the filtered vents in front of the ac is the only air where heat is removed and returned to the room. The air that comes in through the sides and top (what should be on the outside of the trailer) gets blown over the hot coils and dispersed as "exhaust."
The problem with these types of installs are mainly three fold: The restricted air flow on what should be outside the trailer makes the unit work less efficiently. In your case the "exhaust" is being pulled back over itself thus not getting rid of the heat. Secondly, they're usually not installed properly to let condensation drain properly. This leads to water inside the rv which is never as much fun as it sounds. Lastly, it's in a box. This will make it louder when the compressor kicks in just like those useless portable units. They create lower pressure in the room because they literally suck the air out of the room.
To get the most bang for your buck, install the unit through a hole in the camper as if the hole were a window. Build a frame inside to support the weight. Caulk and seal were needed. Let the unit work the way it's supposed to and move on with your life.
Cheers!
My next project. Thank you
Absolutely!
The only reason you'll need the AC is if it's hot outside. So wouldn't blocking off the outside vents not allowing hot air inside and installing the 4" vents inside be better?
the side vents take in air, to blow it across and cool the coils in the the rear of the ac. It comes in, and blows right back out the back. As long as you use the foam to seal around the top and sides and of the AC, and have the fans in place to blow the exhausted air out the bottom of the trailer, everything should work great. The AC will be getting enough intake to do its job, and exhaust the hot air out of the trailer. Remember, this AC was designed to be hanging outside a window. The entire rear is usually outside.
Excellent explanation, learned a lot from the video. Cheers my friend.
Glad to hear! Appreciate the comment! Cheers!
Great vid! Well explained.
@@DavidArroyo78 Appreciate the comment! Hope it helped!
@@OutdoorTXs I ordered the parts off of Amazon. I’ll let you know after it’s complete. It can only help, not hurt 👍🏼
@@DavidArroyo783yrs later, and mine is still blowing ice cold! Best thing I've done to this camper for summer camping for sure!
Good video bro. Curious. How do I know if I have a 10ss or not ? Just got my 2021 about 2 weeks ago. Cools fine but I’m sure this would help…..appreciate the reply
The SS model has the AC in the wall, and a single door. I don't think the SS has this issue, as the rear of the AC is able to vent out the wall of the trailer. 👍
This model with the AC inside the cabinet, and two doors is the 10fb model.
I have a MyPod and it came from the factory with this sort of setup. They also included a switch for the fans. I may have to upgrade them soon but unfortunately whoever rebuilt the cabinets installed the AC unit and screwed it into place behind a wall that they nailed in. When something fails it will be quite an ordeal getting the AC unit out
Hope it doesn't need service for a long while!
Do you have anymore "fix it" videos for a Free Solo or Bushwaker? Please share with me!
Should these be 90mm or 120mm fans? Your link says 90mm but it takes people to a location on Amazon for 120mm.
I used 90MM fans, but it appears they no longer have them in 90mm. The link now shows the 120mm, which will still fit and work. They will move more air, so might only need 2 instead of 4 like I used.
@@OutdoorTXs thanks for the reply. Great solution by the way!
I only have the max air flow on top but I wanted to find a small rv roof unit. The smallest I was able to find was the Dometic Duo Therm Brisk II Air. It weights 55 pounds. Do you think the weight would hold up?
As far as I know, the bushwacker has a weight capacy of 300lbs on the rack. But, the rack is mounted to frame, I'm not sure what weight capacity is on top of the actual roof of the trailer.
Im thinking of buying a 2021 used Bushwacker. How essential is the AC? Would the ceiling fan be enough to keep it cool at night? on most NY STATE summer nights
In New York state you'd probably be okay with the vent fan. If you set the fan blowing out and open a couple of windows, it really pulls a lot of air through the trailer. If you were down south like in Texas, the AC would be essential in the summer.
Matt, I'm having this trouble with with an ok schooner camper I just bought. My ac is up above the area yours is. I'm thinking about doing the same but a little different. I live in Mansfield Texas.Do you still have your camper?
Yep! Still got it. How is the venting on yours?
I was looking at it right now trying to figure out how to do it.
Mine is a little different. I was at joe pool lake Friday night first time out.
@@OutdoorTXs
I'm trying to send you a picture and not sure how..
@@MB-ou9wi email to matt@outdoortxs.com
MB-ou0wi I also have a OK Schooner, owned it 2 months now and having the same problem. Did you figure out a solution to this?
Do you have a link to the A/C that you upgraded to?
I actually picked up the AC at my local HomeDepot store. Its a Toshiba 6000btu window unit. Here is the link for Homedepot - www.homedepot.com/p/Toshiba-6-000-BTU-115-Volt-Window-Air-Conditioner-with-Remote-in-White-RAC-WK0612CRRU/311290372
How do you remove the drain water? Mine flows into the camper all over the counters.
The AC has a drip tray underneath, that will catch the condensation and drain it down through the same hole the hot air is exhausted, out the bottom of the trailer. You may need to raise the tongue jack, so the trailer is slightly tilted towards the rear, so water will flow back towards the drain.
You tilt it down towards the rear...Just be aware. Some units have a sling fan. They repurpose the condensation into a tray. Then it will sling it across the rear coil to carry the heat away...There more efficient..
Interesting, I just got my Bushwacker last Friday. My AC unit vents up top.
They added top vents on some of the newer models but it still has the bottom vent as well. You might try these mods if yours isn't cooling like it should.
Oh yeah I’m sure it’s far from efficient, was just stating that they must have listened to the criticisms. Which is a good thing.
@@OutdoorTXs BTW what size TV did you find fits best?
@@ChrisCookTech I've got a 19", which fits pretty well over the center cabinet. Ive got another vid on a firestick install where you see the fitment. 👍
@@OutdoorTXs Sorry i should have looked before I asked, I was "that guy". Haha. Cheers!
Cutting the hole makes it so it is as affective as a portable air conditioner and all pc fans are water resistant
That does not work.. You have to seal off the side and top vents from the inside..As you don't want your just cold air going right back outside...
It actually works perfectly. Blows ice cold
@@OutdoorTXs I'm sure it does.. But it's still not right. As the Vents use fresh air from Outside.. Not use the air you just cooled. As you would just be spinning your wheels..
Just ask any HVAC tech.. They know what their doing. As I was not so full of pride to not ask a professional how too do mine.. And the first thing he said was. Make sure you don't stop and just turn these on. As the oil in the compressor gets splashed around. You have to give it time to settle again. As there not designed to be rattling down the road then used.
Why these things fail so fast. And then they blame the factory for using Cheap AC units..
Good Luck..
@@WizzRacing lol what?! The vents pull in outside air to blow over the coils to cool them, and then it's eshausted out the back of the unit. All this usually happens outside, as these units are made to hang outside a window. The front intake takes in air and and blows it back out after being cooled. You can disagree or consult all the HVAC tech you want. All I know is my AC works 100 times better than before and blows ice cold, and I know of plenty of others who have had the same success. If you don't agree, and want to seal your vents off, great! Do what you want. Good luck to you!
@@OutdoorTXs You're not listening.. Them side hole in your cabinet are drawing in Cooled air. Then into the side vents that are designed for "Outside Air"
So not sure you understand. Unless you cut the video short. And covered up them side holes..
@@WizzRacing Oh lol. You said side and top vents in your first comment, I thought you were referring to the outside, side vents. The interiour side vents actually move very little air. You could prob seal them, but eh. It works just fine as is.I did this like 2 years ago, and its been working great ever since.