Carbon is strong ... until it shatters leaving the rider flying head first toward the pavement at 50mph. Both steel and titanium flex but are virtually indestructible, even when dented. If you "need" fiber because it makes your bike 1lb lighter, consider losing bodyfat instead as most casual cyclists have 20lbs or so they could easily shed.
There is also almost always a recommended weight limit for carbon. For example carbon deep dish wheelsets have a limit of 230 lbs. titanium is an amazing alternative as well. And as someone who rides a 1987 Stumpjumper as a cruising bike, steel is real!
Unless you are a mechanic, a used bike is rarely a bargain. Yes, you can buy a bike for 1/5 of the new price BUT then you take them for a "tune up" where you find the bike needs a new chain, new cassette, new cables and housings, new tires, and a wheel truing. Guess what, by this point you have paid more than a new bike would cost.
Thanks. I wish I had this a long time ago. Wrecked a few bikes with my leggs going up hill.. Your videos are really good and had a positive imoact across the planet. Dont ever stop posting.
I'm fairly lightweight at mere 70kgs, but I reckon another good piece of advice would be minding your gearing, specially your cassette size. Modern mountain bikes have up to 52 teeth cassettes which really help uphill, so that you don''t have to stand up and put down all that sheer torque - instead, you spin a lot and remain seated. Just figured it was something worth saying.
I'm a 230 lb guy as well, but i've never had issues with my bike thus far, were you riding carbon or a road bike ? I have a aluminum hybrid bike , maybe they are more durable ?
Rear axles snap so easily when the bike has over 200lb sat on it, speaking from experience. Look for a bike with a freehub, not a freewheel. Freehubs support the axle much better and are way less likely to snap. Or better yet, find a single speed bike. Cheap and very durable!
My bike is nearly two decades old. It has been restored and it does the job for me. The only thing that matters for me is durability and that I am the one putting in the effort riding it, instead of a electric engine.
Precisely! IMO, its worth paying more if it increases the reliability of the bike but its never worth paying more just to make it lighter. Steel frames are fine - no need for anything fancy-pants.
Haha, so true, and nowadays, it's all about carbon fiber, that is "supposed" to be light and durable (partially true, depends on how you build it though, layers of carbon sheets etc). Made that mistake and bought a carbon fork for my MTB. It was flexing and creaking so much, way beyond what I was comfortable with, and just swapped it for a cromoly fork after 5km.
You are VERY lucky you heard it creaking because that is rare. What happens with most people is that the fork just explosively shatters without any warning or reason turning them into a human pole vault which often results in serious neck and spine damage.
@@scooby1961 You are absolutely right. I like modding my bike, I was fully aware of potential failure and risks of the fork before I bought it. It was essentially an experiment for me, so from the moment I installed it on my bike, I really had this in mind. But I was really surprised by the amount of flex the fork had. Applied the front brake and I was seeing the wheel moving backwards A LOT!
I accidentally over loaded my bike. I'm 160 lbs, and I put a basket on my bike. Not thinking deeply about it, I put too much stress on the back wheel. Burst a tire and lost some spokes.
I hate doing cardio on stationary machines at the gym, so I recently got a bike from the dumpster that needed repairs. I fixed it up and I ride that to and from the gym, I love it. My neighbor also hooked me up with a rotted rusted bike that had a sweet rear rack, so I took it off, sandblasted and painted it, installed new hardware, and then i got a square milk crate hose clamped to it so now I have a cargo basket and I use the bike for small errands around town as well. Its tons of fun, and saves on gas....where I live its actually an easier way to get around for small errands than using the van. What I do not understand are the guys on $10k Specialized racing bikes who pedal around in groups blocking the roads, they wear rainbow colored olympic cycling shirts with sponsor logos all over them and tons of spandex. They are not tour de france riders but they think they are! Seriously who are these guys and where do they come from? Its scary I could be standing in line at the grocery store and the man next to me is an undercover spandex clad bicycle wacko, you just dont know!
Thanks for thw advice. Kind of late lol.i just bought my road bike to commute from where I park to my house. 10 miles. Im 175lbs and tired are 700x23 super fast but don't like a very thin tire feels like im gonna get a flat at every pothole I run. Currently at 92psi
Do you have recommendations for a crankset for heavy riders? I’m 260 right now, powerlift, and I just got a bike after 10 years of not riding. I’m loving it but I’m already noticing wear in my crank after a few hours of riding in total. I like to stand a lot and I ride my bike hard.
I think your only hope is to get a one speed racer like those professional cyclists with the tree trunk legs use. You will snap any crankset that your local bike store has.
Here is the problem, a used bike is rarely a bargain no matter how cheap. Yes, you can buy them for 1/4 of the new price BUT then you take them for a "tune up" where you find the bike needs a new chain, new cassette, new cables and housings, new tires, and a wheel truing. Guess what, by this point you have paid more than a new bike would cost.
useful video scooby. people watch to the end so you can see the different metals that support higher weights. doesnt apply to me but no carbon frame on the tires. make sure to use titanium or steel frame for your bike. according to scooby carbon does not support heavy bikers!! don't wanna fall or get hurt!
I built a wheel before my accident a year ago, on a test ride, I broke my neck and face, but the irony my carbon fork actually snapped so the wheel I built was irrelevant. I almost nearly died on July 28th 2021
Holy shit! Glad uou survived! Precisely why carbon is a horrible choice, it fails catastrophically and without warning. Metals give plenty of warning before snapping
@@scooby1961 it was my 2nd successful wheel build, it is undamaged and it is still perfect, it lives in my shed now though. I believe reusing bicycle parts is a curse, like you said after about 6 months anything that’s too weak or thin will begin to fail, if there’s any part that can’t withstand a crazy ride then it will bust before the other better & typically more expensive parts
@@scooby1961 my pedals both became crumpled yesterday while I was road touring trail riding and some modest hill climbing, I was wearing my timberland boots then the Walmart bicycle stock pedals began to flatten under the forces
Aluminum is the most stiff when it comes to bike frames, titanium and steel seem to both be very flexible and are very plyable unlike Aluminum with will crack alot eiser Carbon= junk. Please correct me if I'm wrong here! 🙂
We agree on carbon. Aluminum is the most "stiff", but that is not what heavy people need. Heavy people need something that will not break. Both steel and Ti flex but never break. AL will be stiff ... until it cracks.
Would love your opinion on E-bikes? I need one for travel, heavy @ 260+ so I think it's a good buy for me for extra long distance rides (no car)... But it seems like a moot point for exercise / weight loss... but maybe it would be good habit formation?
ANYTHING that gets you out of a car and moving under your own power is a great lifestyle change. Pedaling some with an eBike is way better than sitting in a car
@0:25 'if you're under 200lbs you can buy any bike you want' .. not true at all. I'm 6'1" since I was 13 , and 180lbs.. I destroy cranks all the time. The power train can't handle my immense power. Some of the higher quality parts like SHimano Dura-ace ect last a bit longer but once they start wiggling it's done. Sometimes have problems with frames starting to flex as well. And to add, bikes are uber expensive and look pretty now a days but they aren't built well.
I weigh 230-235lbs, and when I have a backpack on then it's more. I've kept getting told by road bike poeple that I will break my bike after a year, but it's always been fine. Bear in mind I use my bike 30 minutes a day to go to work :D
With carbon, its all about manufacturing quality. My guess is that since Trek is a very large, well established company the lawyers there have them being very careful in manufacturing. What I would do is just very carefully inspect the frame a few times a year for any dents. I would also do the white glove test - drag the glove over the surfaces and any snag indicates a problem. Dont buy another though :) Buy titanium.
I ride a road bike between 240-255lbs. I never thought it would be a problem. I have a carbon fork and aluminum frame. If I haven't had any problems, should I be concerned?
Generally I agree with most of this video but if a rider is pushing the 300lbs mark you have to expect broken spokes. I would suggest walking in addition to biking at that weight.
Hey Scoob! I'm a heavy rider as well (220) and I find that the stock innertubes in my Trek Marlin 7 seem to lose a bit of air pressure on rides, total noob question but do they sell stronger tubes for heavier riders? If so do you have any recommendations for a replacement set of tubes for my mountain bike. Also another noob question, should I also look into sturdier tires?
Its not a matter of strength when it comes to tubes but puncture resistance. If you lose a bit of pressure you have a small leak. What I do is buy the massive "thorn proof" tubes. They are probably 10x heavier than standard tubes because they have 1/8" of rubber ... and that means that thorns are unlikely to penetrate all the way thru.
Came to your channel 10 years ago looking for lifting advice. Then you helped get my butt on a bicycle and it's been an amazing hobby. Thanks Scooby! This is counterintuitive considering many of us heavy riders are also tall, but go for smaller wheels! There are lots of 650b options out there now and all other variables held constant, smaller wheels are stronger. Now that gravel bikes are a thing, you can find steel bikes with 650b wheels in local bike shops.
Agreed. The smaller the wheel, the easier it is for it to be strong. For example, my 20" wheels on my Bike Friday travel bike are virtually indestructible and I have had bike+rider+gear of 350lbs on them.
Hate to admit it, had to google “gravel bike”. Agree with you. Because of the large dia tires you can put on 650b rims, the big soft tire itself will provide shock absorbtion and make the wheel durable for even heavy riders
Yes, as long as you're in a caloric deficit at the end of the day. Also, the longer you stick with cardio the better you will become, thus going faster and burning more calories. Keep it up!
I'm not an expert, but I think if it raises your heart rate to a point were it's considered cardio, then it's good. Increase the intensity and duration slowly as your stamina improves. Edit: and walking at any speed is better than staying home all day.
Hey Scoob, I was about 205 before my belated summer cut and had about 20lbs of gear and water on my bike, and have ridden hundreds of miles on this '80s hand-me-down trek road bike without a single issue with the wheels. I think this moreso applies to carbon fiber instead of aluminum alloy wheels.
I'm always curious about the mentality of people who spend more money than they have to on carbon fibre components and bike frames that- frankly- they have no way of assessing for integrity/quality... I mean why trust your health to a material of indeterminate quality in which flaws/cracks can be literally invisible. Plus, the weight saving subtracts a relatively tiny amount from long ride times. It's hardly worth it
Agreed. They spend thousands more for a bike that is one pound lighter when they are 25lbs overweight :) Also, carbon is a HORRIBLE material for bikes because of its failure mode. It gives no warning, it simply gives way explosively.
My dad who is 6'5 and 265 lbs has been riding the same bike for over 15 years and loves it. For those who can spend good money on a bike I highly recommend a Colnago.
A good quality mountain bike or dutch townie style, is best. A older mountain bike from pre 93 is a great choice. In steel. Get a rear built up wheel with 36 spoke content. Add comfy upright bars and stem. My favorite. A new Surly can be good, too. Might still need a tough rear wheel.
Scoob, all due respect but you’re wrong about wheels. And also bike mechanics (many are fat lol). An experienced wheelbuilder absolutely can build a bombproof wheel on a normal rim. You need more spokes at a heavier gauge and better hubs. So you would need something like a 36h wheel. The issue is most bikes wheels lean to like 20-24 spokes now. Also a custom wheel from a master builder is expensive… But I gotta say it comes off as arrogant to dismiss an entire class of craftsmen (wheelbuilders) for something you only have passing interest and cursory knowledge in. Last there are “bike racers” with quads wider than your entire body putting more torque through the drivetrain on a carbon bike than you could if you spent the next 10 years on gear and hgh. Look up Robert Forstemann, or any track racer big dawg. Bike racing isn’t all climbers.
LOL! You must be a racer! Its not arrogant, its materials science. There is no amount of skill that can build a rim strong enough for a 300lb person when there is not enough metal used.
@@scooby1961 Plenty of standard rims are rated for 130-140kg max from the manufacturer, and that’s probably conservative to avoid lawsuits. Once you start going well over 300, yeah idk… maybe riding a bike isn’t for you at that point
I'm a 5foot-9inch, 180 pound calithenics monster and last year I snapped two teeth off of the rear sprocket of my GT, so I can only imagine the fun that you 220 pound bememoths have destroying bikes. haha
tip top advice...as always. If you ask a competetive cyclist what bike to get....he naturally will tell you that you need a Carbon arrow with the newest SRAM Groupset for 4k. Your actual needs might be totally different!
Hi scooby, I’m a 90kg bike rider from the Uk. And couldn’t agree more with what your saying. I race criterium on my giant tcr WITH ALLOY aero wheels for safety. Plus they’re a lot cheaper to replace if I crash haha
I'm 6'5 250 lbs. Bought an XXL frame hybrid bike with heavy duty rims/spokes about 10 years ago that has withstood the stresses. With other bikes I was regularly breaking spokes. Tall folks have be sure to buy a proper frame size in addition to the weight issue you mentioned.
I'm 210lbs and into bodybuilding and ride a boutique full carbon road bike. It's a lios bullett. I'm using shimano ultegra group set and mavic aksium wheels. I've had no issues with it over thousands of miles of hills and rough roads. I frequently ride up very steep hills as fast as I can (got plenty of strava KOMS!). I used to stand on the pedals but I mostly spin nowadays as its better for the joints, not because the bike will break. The only issue I've had is chains wearing out however after splashing out on a campagnolo record I've had no issues. I appreciate your wisdom scooby but I think us smaller big guys are often fine on a normal good quality bike!
@@matthewcleaton2853 it does not if you do it right. The issue you are talking about is one that is due to prolonged pressure on the perineum, we are talking riding a bike for smth like 6 hours straight. Most modern saddles have pressure relief channels for that very reason. You would have to ride an insane amount and have a very ill fitting saddle to cause such issues.
I'm sticking to alu/steel bikes which are affordable (ti is for rich bois) but have a lot more give and are not like carbon that hide fractures. I was fortunate enough that a alu cracked seat post was creaking giving indication of issues but carbon is sneaky. The majority of issues I have are with my wheels where I break spokes often, so going for a high-spoke count wheel is what I now look for but wish I could find tandem wheels with sealed cartridge hub....
You are probably a heavy rider like me. I used to constantly pull hair out because my wheels would start breaking spokes and falling apart a few months after buying them despite assurances from the bike store that THEIR wheels were bulletproof - BS. What I have found is that the deep rims with the high tension flat spokes are VERY durable. They tend to have a much lower spoke count but I have never broken a spoke on these despite having a rolling weight of over 300lbs
Good advice. I'm not a rider in the Scooby mold. But I do put on about 50 miles a week, that's 10 miles five times a week and I'm about 200 lbs., give or take. I find a mountain bike does the job, so, I agree there. Should I ride more? Probably! But, my prostate starts speaking to me after about an hour on the bike, lol. And I LISTEN!
Saw this in the TDF a few years back. Cyclist, riding a high end carbon fiber frame with all the bells and whistles, hit the guard rail and sent himself flying over the barrier and into some bushes. Think he was ok. The bike was not. Frame was bent in ways I didn't know a bike frame could bend.
You realize carbon fiber is stronger than most metals, including steel and aluminium, right? Maybe titanium, but who exactly do you plan on catering your views towards other than people who can drop $2400 on the titanium frame alone.
@@scooby1961 And you are a perfect example of an overly opinionated and slightly moronic boomer (which explains your catty, passive-aggresive nature) I have a Scott Scale 920 and it only cost $1500 at the time of purchase (pre-inflation thanks to libtards like you) yet you FAILED to address how a titanium bike can cost well into $2400 for the FRAME ALONE. Also, hundreds of thousands of people ride carbon fiber bikes. Steel bikes that(were) most retails offers are a thing of the 90's, boomer. Aluminium became the staple in the 2000s, and now titanium and carbon fiber are the more modernized options. Consider not being an asshole in your responses. It's not tough love, it's not harsh or direct, you're just an asshole.
Any advice on seats? I went over a small drop and the stock seat bent. I bought a new one off amazon and no matter how much I tighten it, it still wants to roll backward underneath me after a few miles.
Carbon is strong ... until it shatters leaving the rider flying head first toward the pavement at 50mph. Both steel and titanium flex but are virtually indestructible, even when dented. If you "need" fiber because it makes your bike 1lb lighter, consider losing bodyfat instead as most casual cyclists have 20lbs or so they could easily shed.
There is also almost always a recommended weight limit for carbon. For example carbon deep dish wheelsets have a limit of 230 lbs. titanium is an amazing alternative as well. And as someone who rides a 1987 Stumpjumper as a cruising bike, steel is real!
@@Pshpshpshpshpshpshpsh my favorite bike is still a trek 8900 fully built in ‘97! Running rhyno rims… it’s the perfect ride for my 245lbs.
Unless you are a mechanic, a used bike is rarely a bargain. Yes, you can buy a bike for 1/5 of the new price BUT then you take them for a "tune up" where you find the bike needs a new chain, new cassette, new cables and housings, new tires, and a wheel truing. Guess what, by this point you have paid more than a new bike would cost.
This is really great info! I’m currently looking to order a benefit bicycle through my work and this definitely helped!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks. I wish I had this a long time ago. Wrecked a few bikes with my leggs going up hill..
Your videos are really good and had a positive imoact across the planet. Dont ever stop posting.
Thanks!!!
Love your content Scooby! Thank you for the videos!
Thanks!!
I'm fairly lightweight at mere 70kgs, but I reckon another good piece of advice would be minding your gearing, specially your cassette size. Modern mountain bikes have up to 52 teeth cassettes which really help uphill, so that you don''t have to stand up and put down all that sheer torque - instead, you spin a lot and remain seated. Just figured it was something worth saying.
I'm a 230lb guy who likes to bike fast and I fractured all the guts in the rear hub of a cheap bike going up hill once. Good times!
Yep. I did it many times too till I figured it out
I had a boop and tore my carbon frame in half.
I'm a 230 lb guy as well, but i've never had issues with my bike thus far, were you riding carbon or a road bike ? I have a aluminum hybrid bike , maybe they are more durable ?
Rear axles snap so easily when the bike has over 200lb sat on it, speaking from experience. Look for a bike with a freehub, not a freewheel. Freehubs support the axle much better and are way less likely to snap. Or better yet, find a single speed bike. Cheap and very durable!
Thanks, your the only video I've ever seen on this topic. This is great for big men trying to get in shape!
Glad you liked it!!
I don't know exactly when I'll be able to afford this, but I'm glad to have advice I can actually use. Thanks Scoob.
I think the message for big riders is: get a mountain bike, but if you're serious then build a custom one using tandem wheels.
As harizotoh said, buy a MTB for now. If you want to go fast then you will need to plan on spending some bucks.
My bike is nearly two decades old. It has been restored and it does the job for me. The only thing that matters for me is durability and that I am the one putting in the effort riding it, instead of a electric engine.
Precisely! IMO, its worth paying more if it increases the reliability of the bike but its never worth paying more just to make it lighter. Steel frames are fine - no need for anything fancy-pants.
I run a rusty chain on high gear with a messed up backwheel. Laziness for more muscles xD
Your bike is very effecient at providing exercise!!
I ride a stock carbon enduro bike in bikeparks with lots of jumps weighing around 265 lbs.
Never had any problems with rims, frames...
Best of luck!
when I was 80-85kg I had no problems. Now at 90kg, my wheels will bend and rub against the brakes in a month or so, making it unaidable
Scooby can you please make a video doing a zyzz pose?
No
I've been watching a guy on Twitch tandem bike with his gf across Europe. The bike costs over $10,000. Insane lmao
10k. Wow! More importantly - WHY!!
scooby can u make a video showing the cameras u use
Haha, so true, and nowadays, it's all about carbon fiber, that is "supposed" to be light and durable (partially true, depends on how you build it though, layers of carbon sheets etc). Made that mistake and bought a carbon fork for my MTB. It was flexing and creaking so much, way beyond what I was comfortable with, and just swapped it for a cromoly fork after 5km.
You are VERY lucky you heard it creaking because that is rare. What happens with most people is that the fork just explosively shatters without any warning or reason turning them into a human pole vault which often results in serious neck and spine damage.
@@scooby1961 You are absolutely right. I like modding my bike, I was fully aware of potential failure and risks of the fork before I bought it. It was essentially an experiment for me, so from the moment I installed it on my bike, I really had this in mind. But I was really surprised by the amount of flex the fork had. Applied the front brake and I was seeing the wheel moving backwards A LOT!
I accidentally over loaded my bike. I'm 160 lbs, and I put a basket on my bike. Not thinking deeply about it, I put too much stress on the back wheel. Burst a tire and lost some spokes.
I rode some pretty light road bikes and singlespeeds as a fat man. But i must admit that a 29er feels the most secure.
Whatever works!
...did you have to tease me with the speedo shot? Now I'm totally diverted. ...... ;-)
Lol
I hate doing cardio on stationary machines at the gym, so I recently got a bike from the dumpster that needed repairs. I fixed it up and I ride that to and from the gym, I love it. My neighbor also hooked me up with a rotted rusted bike that had a sweet rear rack, so I took it off, sandblasted and painted it, installed new hardware, and then i got a square milk crate hose clamped to it so now I have a cargo basket and I use the bike for small errands around town as well. Its tons of fun, and saves on gas....where I live its actually an easier way to get around for small errands than using the van.
What I do not understand are the guys on $10k Specialized racing bikes who pedal around in groups blocking the roads, they wear rainbow colored olympic cycling shirts with sponsor logos all over them and tons of spandex. They are not tour de france riders but they think they are!
Seriously who are these guys and where do they come from? Its scary I could be standing in line at the grocery store and the man next to me is an undercover spandex clad bicycle wacko, you just dont know!
Good Job sir you have helped my health investment . Not as cut as you but still chasing numbers at 59. long line of power lifters.
Thoughts on PEDs?
thoughts on brain damage from covid?
Thanks for thw advice. Kind of late lol.i just bought my road bike to commute from where I park to my house. 10 miles.
Im 175lbs and tired are 700x23 super fast but don't like a very thin tire feels like im gonna get a flat at every pothole I run.
Currently at 92psi
Consider 700x32 gatorskins. Thats what I use for rough pavement and gravel
@@scooby1961 thanks ill consider those. And ill keep the 23s for good and smooth roads
1:44 Pardon my illiteracy but isn’t aluminium stronger than steel?
Stronger, meaning stiffer - yes, but AL is also more brittle. Steel and titanium flex but dont crack or break.
@@scooby1961 I see. Thanks!
Todo today: More cardio - Tomorrow - More cardio!
:)
Do you have recommendations for a crankset for heavy riders? I’m 260 right now, powerlift, and I just got a bike after 10 years of not riding. I’m loving it but I’m already noticing wear in my crank after a few hours of riding in total. I like to stand a lot and I ride my bike hard.
I think your only hope is to get a one speed racer like those professional cyclists with the tree trunk legs use. You will snap any crankset that your local bike store has.
280 and I ride a CAAD9(the last model made in the U.S.A) with rim brakes. Great, fast, Aluminum bike, and you can find CAADs used for cheap.
Here is the problem, a used bike is rarely a bargain no matter how cheap. Yes, you can buy them for 1/4 of the new price BUT then you take them for a "tune up" where you find the bike needs a new chain, new cassette, new cables and housings, new tires, and a wheel truing. Guess what, by this point you have paid more than a new bike would cost.
I once flipped one of these, it was yellow. Most gorgeous bike I have ever seen, regret not keeping it
@@gabrielmalta1962 Scour craigslist and FB marketplace.
Can you give some tips on tail swing safety when turning in a RV
no
useful video scooby. people watch to the end so you can see the different metals that support higher weights. doesnt apply to me but no carbon frame on the tires. make sure to use titanium or steel frame for your bike. according to scooby carbon does not support heavy bikers!! don't wanna fall or get hurt!
I'll try to stay under 195 pounds. I like my carbon street bike. I did 1250 km this year already and didn't broke. Wish me luck.
Good luck, it shatters without warning
being skinny makes life easier. become skinny.
Easier on the heart also. And the joints, etc.
I built a wheel before my accident a year ago, on a test ride, I broke my neck and face, but the irony my carbon fork actually snapped so the wheel I built was irrelevant. I almost nearly died on July 28th 2021
Holy shit! Glad uou survived! Precisely why carbon is a horrible choice, it fails catastrophically and without warning. Metals give plenty of warning before snapping
@@scooby1961 it was my 2nd successful wheel build, it is undamaged and it is still perfect, it lives in my shed now though. I believe reusing bicycle parts is a curse, like you said after about 6 months anything that’s too weak or thin will begin to fail, if there’s any part that can’t withstand a crazy ride then it will bust before the other better & typically more expensive parts
@@scooby1961 my pedals both became crumpled yesterday while I was road touring trail riding and some modest hill climbing, I was wearing my timberland boots then the Walmart bicycle stock pedals began to flatten under the forces
Aluminum is the most stiff when it comes to bike frames,
titanium and steel seem to both be very flexible and are very plyable unlike Aluminum with will crack alot eiser
Carbon= junk.
Please correct me if I'm wrong here! 🙂
We agree on carbon. Aluminum is the most "stiff", but that is not what heavy people need. Heavy people need something that will not break. Both steel and Ti flex but never break. AL will be stiff ... until it cracks.
Would love your opinion on E-bikes? I need one for travel, heavy @ 260+ so I think it's a good buy for me for extra long distance rides (no car)... But it seems like a moot point for exercise / weight loss... but maybe it would be good habit formation?
ANYTHING that gets you out of a car and moving under your own power is a great lifestyle change. Pedaling some with an eBike is way better than sitting in a car
@0:25 'if you're under 200lbs you can buy any bike you want' .. not true at all. I'm 6'1" since I was 13 , and 180lbs.. I destroy cranks all the time. The power train can't handle my immense power. Some of the higher quality parts like SHimano Dura-ace ect last a bit longer but once they start wiggling it's done. Sometimes have problems with frames starting to flex as well. And to add, bikes are uber expensive and look pretty now a days but they aren't built well.
If you buy Dura Ace and not race competitively, you're buying the wrong bike
ImO dura-ace is a bad choice for a strong/heavy rider. Ultrgra is my #1 component choice. It has the same quality as dura-ace but is stronger.
I have a question, mountain bikes don't come with mudguards, lights, and luggage carrier. Do you recommend just asking the bike dealer to add them?
I weigh 230-235lbs, and when I have a backpack on then it's more. I've kept getting told by road bike poeple that I will break my bike after a year, but it's always been fine.
Bear in mind I use my bike 30 minutes a day to go to work :D
then you dont need this video!
Scooby, I spent a good deal of money on a Trek Domane road bike (carbon fiber). I'm 250 and stupid strong, am I screwed?
With carbon, its all about manufacturing quality. My guess is that since Trek is a very large, well established company the lawyers there have them being very careful in manufacturing. What I would do is just very carefully inspect the frame a few times a year for any dents. I would also do the white glove test - drag the glove over the surfaces and any snag indicates a problem. Dont buy another though :) Buy titanium.
@@scooby1961 thanks Scooby!
I ride a road bike between 240-255lbs. I never thought it would be a problem. I have a carbon fork and aluminum frame. If I haven't had any problems, should I be concerned?
Yes. Carbon shatters without warning
Generally I agree with most of this video but if a rider is pushing the 300lbs mark you have to expect broken spokes. I would suggest walking in addition to biking at that weight.
When I tour, bike+me+gear is 330lbs. My tandem wheels are 15 years old with never a broken spoke or out of true wheel.
Love your voice, and great video
Hey Scoob! I'm a heavy rider as well (220) and I find that the stock innertubes in my Trek Marlin 7 seem to lose a bit of air pressure on rides, total noob question but do they sell stronger tubes for heavier riders? If so do you have any recommendations for a replacement set of tubes for my mountain bike.
Also another noob question, should I also look into sturdier tires?
Its not a matter of strength when it comes to tubes but puncture resistance. If you lose a bit of pressure you have a small leak. What I do is buy the massive "thorn proof" tubes. They are probably 10x heavier than standard tubes because they have 1/8" of rubber ... and that means that thorns are unlikely to penetrate all the way thru.
Came to your channel 10 years ago looking for lifting advice. Then you helped get my butt on a bicycle and it's been an amazing hobby. Thanks Scooby!
This is counterintuitive considering many of us heavy riders are also tall, but go for smaller wheels! There are lots of 650b options out there now and all other variables held constant, smaller wheels are stronger. Now that gravel bikes are a thing, you can find steel bikes with 650b wheels in local bike shops.
Agreed. The smaller the wheel, the easier it is for it to be strong. For example, my 20" wheels on my Bike Friday travel bike are virtually indestructible and I have had bike+rider+gear of 350lbs on them.
Ok I'm too light for this video.
Nice quad though Scooby!
Or a great alternative gravel bikes
Hate to admit it, had to google “gravel bike”. Agree with you. Because of the large dia tires you can put on 650b rims, the big soft tire itself will provide shock absorbtion and make the wheel durable for even heavy riders
Is jogging 3 miles in 40 minutes slow pace still good for fat loss?
Yes, as long as you're in a caloric deficit at the end of the day. Also, the longer you stick with cardio the better you will become, thus going faster and burning more calories. Keep it up!
Cardio is for health. Nutrition is for fat loss.
I'm not an expert, but I think if it raises your heart rate to a point were it's considered cardio, then it's good. Increase the intensity and duration slowly as your stamina improves.
Edit: and walking at any speed is better than staying home all day.
Finally got a bike and loving it thanks for the inspiration Scoob
Yes!!!
I’m a big fat guy. 6’4” 235lbs. Someone gave me a Trek and it works well for my fat self.
Whatever works!!
Hey Scoob, I was about 205 before my belated summer cut and had about 20lbs of gear and water on my bike, and have ridden hundreds of miles on this '80s hand-me-down trek road bike without a single issue with the wheels. I think this moreso applies to carbon fiber instead of aluminum alloy wheels.
205 is a lot different than 220-300lbs
this goes straight to favorites for future use.
I'm always curious about the mentality of people who spend more money than they have to on carbon fibre components and bike frames that- frankly- they have no way of assessing for integrity/quality... I mean why trust your health to a material of indeterminate quality in which flaws/cracks can be literally invisible. Plus, the weight saving subtracts a relatively tiny amount from long ride times. It's hardly worth it
Damn, they're trying to scam people with fake Scoobys now. 😏 How times have changed
Agreed. They spend thousands more for a bike that is one pound lighter when they are 25lbs overweight :) Also, carbon is a HORRIBLE material for bikes because of its failure mode. It gives no warning, it simply gives way explosively.
My dad who is 6'5 and 265 lbs has been riding the same bike for over 15 years and loves it. For those who can spend good money on a bike I highly recommend a Colnago.
I would not recommend any bike maker that caters to Tour de France riders.
More cycling videos!
Me I dropped 320 to 190 I'll just get a normal bike but thankssas lol
congrats!!
Awesome advise as usual. Thanks Scooby.
Welcome!
I lucked out. 7tft tall and 250 pounds. My shop gave me a bike that fit and extra reinforced wheels and frames.
perfect!!
Then I'm glad, that my weigh only is 77 kg. :-)
A good quality mountain bike or dutch townie style, is best. A older mountain bike from pre 93 is a great choice. In steel. Get a rear built up wheel with 36 spoke content. Add comfy upright bars and stem. My favorite. A new Surly can be good, too. Might still need a tough rear wheel.
sorry, bikes that old it are very hard to get replacement parts for
@@scooby1961 no, simple Shimano. I have a 93 Bridgestone MB3. They are also very versatile. Want to add cheap V Brakes? Easy. A 1X gearing? Do it.
Scoob, all due respect but you’re wrong about wheels. And also bike mechanics (many are fat lol). An experienced wheelbuilder absolutely can build a bombproof wheel on a normal rim. You need more spokes at a heavier gauge and better hubs. So you would need something like a 36h wheel. The issue is most bikes wheels lean to like 20-24 spokes now. Also a custom wheel from a master builder is expensive… But I gotta say it comes off as arrogant to dismiss an entire class of craftsmen (wheelbuilders) for something you only have passing interest and cursory knowledge in. Last there are “bike racers” with quads wider than your entire body putting more torque through the drivetrain on a carbon bike than you could if you spent the next 10 years on gear and hgh. Look up Robert Forstemann, or any track racer big dawg. Bike racing isn’t all climbers.
LOL! You must be a racer! Its not arrogant, its materials science. There is no amount of skill that can build a rim strong enough for a 300lb person when there is not enough metal used.
@@scooby1961 Plenty of standard rims are rated for 130-140kg max from the manufacturer, and that’s probably conservative to avoid lawsuits. Once you start going well over 300, yeah idk… maybe riding a bike isn’t for you at that point
I'm a 5foot-9inch, 180 pound calithenics monster and last year I snapped two teeth off of the rear sprocket of my GT, so I can only imagine the fun that you 220 pound bememoths have destroying bikes. haha
Cool! I have never busted teeth!!
tip top advice...as always.
If you ask a competetive cyclist what bike to get....he naturally will tell you that you need a Carbon arrow with the newest SRAM Groupset for 4k. Your actual needs might be totally different!
precisely!
Hi scooby, I’m a 90kg bike rider from the Uk. And couldn’t agree more with what your saying. I race criterium on my giant tcr WITH ALLOY aero wheels for safety. Plus they’re a lot cheaper to replace if I crash haha
I'm 6'5 250 lbs. Bought an XXL frame hybrid bike with heavy duty rims/spokes about 10 years ago that has withstood the stresses. With other bikes I was regularly breaking spokes. Tall folks have be sure to buy a proper frame size in addition to the weight issue you mentioned.
perfect!!!!
I'm 210lbs and into bodybuilding and ride a boutique full carbon road bike. It's a lios bullett. I'm using shimano ultegra group set and mavic aksium wheels.
I've had no issues with it over thousands of miles of hills and rough roads. I frequently ride up very steep hills as fast as I can (got plenty of strava KOMS!). I used to stand on the pedals but I mostly spin nowadays as its better for the joints, not because the bike will break.
The only issue I've had is chains wearing out however after splashing out on a campagnolo record I've had no issues.
I appreciate your wisdom scooby but I think us smaller big guys are often fine on a normal good quality bike!
Let a 260lb friend borrow your bike snd lets talk again :)
Never bothered buying a bike allways thought they cause impotents
Did you stop driving your car when you heard that someone died in a car crash too?
@@scooby1961 no because thats different thats an unforeseen accident. But this is a avoidable got to protect the nuts scoob.
@@scooby1961 ld like a bike though but unfortunately could never get one because of this reason.
@@matthewcleaton2853
it does not if you do it right. The issue you are talking about is one that is due to prolonged pressure on the perineum, we are talking riding a bike for smth like 6 hours straight. Most modern saddles have pressure relief channels for that very reason. You would have to ride an insane amount and have a very ill fitting saddle to cause such issues.
You can change the seat and bike fit if you have such issues. I personally never get numb in my groin and I ride frequently.
I'm sticking to alu/steel bikes which are affordable (ti is for rich bois) but have a lot more give and are not like carbon that hide fractures. I was fortunate enough that a alu cracked seat post was creaking giving indication of issues but carbon is sneaky.
The majority of issues I have are with my wheels where I break spokes often, so going for a high-spoke count wheel is what I now look for but wish I could find tandem wheels with sealed cartridge hub....
You are probably a heavy rider like me. I used to constantly pull hair out because my wheels would start breaking spokes and falling apart a few months after buying them despite assurances from the bike store that THEIR wheels were bulletproof - BS. What I have found is that the deep rims with the high tension flat spokes are VERY durable. They tend to have a much lower spoke count but I have never broken a spoke on these despite having a rolling weight of over 300lbs
Great advice 👍 I fked up a few bikes in my day and never thought about the bike simply not being compatible with my profile.
Good advice. I'm not a rider in the Scooby mold. But I do put on about 50 miles a week, that's 10 miles five times a week and I'm about 200 lbs., give or take. I find a mountain bike does the job, so, I agree there. Should I ride more? Probably! But, my prostate starts speaking to me after about an hour on the bike, lol. And I LISTEN!
Surly
Saw this in the TDF a few years back. Cyclist, riding a high end carbon fiber frame with all the bells and whistles, hit the guard rail and sent himself flying over the barrier and into some bushes. Think he was ok. The bike was not. Frame was bent in ways I didn't know a bike frame could bend.
Uncle Scooby saving the day again 💪😎
Thanks!!!
Your quads and overall physique is looking better than ever scoob. Why do I feel like a burger after staring at those quads
Lol!
You realize carbon fiber is stronger than most metals, including steel and aluminium, right? Maybe titanium, but who exactly do you plan on catering your views towards other than people who can drop $2400 on the titanium frame alone.
You are a perfect example of how a little information can be very, very dangerous. Best of luck to you if you weigh 250lbs and ride a carbon bike.
Consider taking a “properties of materials” class in engineering and then lets talk again.
@@scooby1961 And you are a perfect example of an overly opinionated and slightly moronic boomer (which explains your catty, passive-aggresive nature)
I have a Scott Scale 920 and it only cost $1500 at the time of purchase (pre-inflation thanks to libtards like you) yet you FAILED to address how a titanium bike can cost well into $2400 for the FRAME ALONE.
Also, hundreds of thousands of people ride carbon fiber bikes. Steel bikes that(were) most retails offers are a thing of the 90's, boomer. Aluminium became the staple in the 2000s, and now titanium and carbon fiber are the more modernized options.
Consider not being an asshole in your responses. It's not tough love, it's not harsh or direct, you're just an asshole.
Anyone can be forgiven and saved (from hell) if repents and believes in Lord Jesus. Good to know.
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Any advice on seats? I went over a small drop and the stock seat bent. I bought a new one off amazon and no matter how much I tighten it, it still wants to roll backward underneath me after a few miles.
Buy from your local bike shop, not amazon where cheap china-krap is sold.