I keep coming across more of your great videos as I'm learning with new projects. This is a great tutorial and is perfect for a high dome cab that I've been pondering how to set. Thanks for all the great information.
I've been waiting for this next step videos to come out! This is gold, thank you! I would love to ask however, is there a rule for placement of the solder seem on the first "ring" in correlation to where to stock goes for the prongs? I would think maybe you would want the seam off diagonally somewhere between the prongs, but maybe not? Thank you!!
Hi Dharlee, I'm glad that you enjoyed the video. The answer to your question is that the seam on the base is generally lined up with either a prong or bail attachment. That way the seam doesn't deplete during the soldering process. Thanks for your support! : )
You might wanna specify that that "soft brick" is a soft FIRE brick, not sure if that would confuse anyone, ive built my own blacksmkthing and large scale bronze melting forge and furnaces using it, its extremely expensive for what it is but but buying one or two bricks of any thickness is really great for jewelry, but I bet a hard one would work fine too if you didn't have access because they're much easier to find than soft. Thanks for the video btw!
Hello John, Thanks again for this tutorial. I have been googling "Polar Radiograph" and not being able to find that PDF you mentioned. If you could be a little more specific, I would appreciate it. Also, Jen said to add the thickness of the wire. I found that true when I need to keep the inside diameter but we want the stone to sit on the wire. Just my observance.
Hi Bruce, Thanks for the feedback on the video. You're very right about measurements to keep the interior diameter requiring added thickness. The graph paper I mentioned in the video is a polar radial graph paper. This ought to get you what you want: incompetech.com/graphpaper/polar/ Thanks for your support! : )
I have been trying to solder a silver prong (from square wire) to a flat disc that I've notched. I'm using easy solder and I can't seem to get the solder to flow into the notch to hold the prong in place. The solder keeps wanting to flow up the prong itself. I'm using the method your speaker used by pressing the prong into the soft brick to hold it in place and then lightly pressing the notched disk into the prong. I have put flux at the base of the prong and a little into the notch, but it just wants to flow up the prong. I have also tried the sweat solder method but that didn't work either. Could you give me some pointers. (FYI, I am largely an autodidact with silver smithing - I have been pretty successful with soldering pieces together, but this prong soldering doesn't want to cooperate. I apologize if my question is rudimentary).
Hi Justin, what you described is a common problem for many jewelers. The solder is not going where you want it to because the heat is uneven. Your prong is getting hotter than the base. Try to heat as evenly as possible and ultimately focus your heat behind the prong just past the seam. It takes practice. Don’t get discouraged. And remember to pickle and clean the pieces between sliding attempts. Also, don’t let too much solder get all over your parts and try to use hard solder. Good luck!🍀
@@OnlineJewelryAcademy Good evening! I just wanted to thank you again for your stellar advice. It worked like a charm. I focused the heat on the disc instead of the prong and used the hard solder. I got all four of the prongs on - I wish I could show you. It's my first pronged piece. Now to add a jump ring, then cleaning and then set the mother of pearl in it. I very much appreciate the videos and advice. Cheers!
Thank you Dharlee. You were right. We have made the necessary corrections in order to ensure that viewers are able to find Jennifer's website. Thanks for your support! : )
Christy Martin One way would be to bend a piece of binding wire around the base of your stone. Then, transfer that measurement to your actual wire. The shift between gauge sizes should help make your base the right size. 🙂
Jennifer Hermann yes.. Or u can do add the metal thickness to the length at the start and multiply that by pi... It's pretty much the same answer. The later is the way I was always thought to do it. But I'm from Europe so Americans seem to have their ways lol. Buts it's pretty much the same answer if u try both ways u will see 😉
Hi Lidia, Jennifer Monroe and I are both professors. We are entitled to use this title because we both posses a Masters of Fine Arts degree. This is a "terminal" degree. In other words, in the United States we cannot achieve a higher academic credential in our field. Here are a few links that will help to clarify my usage of this title: www.onlinejewelryacademy.com/about.html, www.onlinejewelryacademy.com/online-vs-classroom-video.html, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Professor. Thanks for your support! : )
@@OnlineJewelryAcademy so weird... in northern europe, just a few select people get to have the title of Professor. I have my masters too... but certainly not a professor (which would involve being a senior teacher at university amongst kther things). It triggered me :) as use of the word professor is kinda only for a select group over here. It feels for me the same as calling every lawyer "your Honor". I see in the wiki that America is much more loose in that terminology. Thanks for the clarification!
I keep coming across more of your great videos as I'm learning with new projects. This is a great tutorial and is perfect for a high dome cab that I've been pondering how to set. Thanks for all the great information.
Glad it was helpful! 😀
Thank you and Jennifer for this video.
You are quite welcome. Glad you found the information useful.
Thanks for your support! : )
SO grateful for your clear instructions!
I'll pass your compliment onto Prof. Monroe.
Thanks for your support! : )
Looking forward to watching part 2 👍🏻😊
Hi Madeleine, Part two should be released sometime soon. Glad you liked the first half.
Thanks for your support! : )
Excellent video.
Glad you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for your support! : )
I've been waiting for this next step videos to come out! This is gold, thank you! I would love to ask however, is there a rule for placement of the solder seem on the first "ring" in correlation to where to stock goes for the prongs? I would think maybe you would want the seam off diagonally somewhere between the prongs, but maybe not? Thank you!!
Hi Dharlee, I'm glad that you enjoyed the video. The answer to your question is that the seam on the base is generally lined up with either a prong or bail attachment. That way the seam doesn't deplete during the soldering process.
Thanks for your support! : )
You might wanna specify that that "soft brick" is a soft FIRE brick, not sure if that would confuse anyone, ive built my own blacksmkthing and large scale bronze melting forge and furnaces using it, its extremely expensive for what it is but but buying one or two bricks of any thickness is really great for jewelry, but I bet a hard one would work fine too if you didn't have access because they're much easier to find than soft. Thanks for the video btw!
Thanks for your comment. Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching! 😀
Hello John, Thanks again for this tutorial. I have been googling "Polar Radiograph" and not being able to find that PDF you mentioned. If you could be a little more specific, I would appreciate it. Also, Jen said to add the thickness of the wire. I found that true when I need to keep the inside diameter but we want the stone to sit on the wire. Just my observance.
Hi Bruce, Thanks for the feedback on the video. You're very right about measurements to keep the interior diameter requiring added thickness. The graph paper I mentioned in the video is a polar radial graph paper. This ought to get you what you want: incompetech.com/graphpaper/polar/
Thanks for your support! : )
teachers.sduhsd.net/abrown/Resources/HelpfulFiles/PolarGraphs.pdf.
incompetech.com/graphpaper/polar/
Can't wait for part ii!
Glad you liked the video. Part two will be out shortly.
Thanks for your support! : )
hi, thank you ;)
You’re very welcome. Thanks for watching! 😀
@@OnlineJewelryAcademy hi, pleasures watching your videos ;)
I have been trying to solder a silver prong (from square wire) to a flat disc that I've notched. I'm using easy solder and I can't seem to get the solder to flow into the notch to hold the prong in place. The solder keeps wanting to flow up the prong itself. I'm using the method your speaker used by pressing the prong into the soft brick to hold it in place and then lightly pressing the notched disk into the prong. I have put flux at the base of the prong and a little into the notch, but it just wants to flow up the prong. I have also tried the sweat solder method but that didn't work either. Could you give me some pointers. (FYI, I am largely an autodidact with silver smithing - I have been pretty successful with soldering pieces together, but this prong soldering doesn't want to cooperate. I apologize if my question is rudimentary).
Hi Justin, what you described is a common problem for many jewelers. The solder is not going where you want it to because the heat is uneven. Your prong is getting hotter than the base. Try to heat as evenly as possible and ultimately focus your heat behind the prong just past the seam. It takes practice. Don’t get discouraged. And remember to pickle and clean the pieces between sliding attempts. Also, don’t let too much solder get all over your parts and try to use hard solder. Good luck!🍀
@@OnlineJewelryAcademy Fantastic. Thank you SO much for the pointers. I'll give it a try! Thank you thank you! :-)
@@OnlineJewelryAcademy Good evening! I just wanted to thank you again for your stellar advice. It worked like a charm. I focused the heat on the disc instead of the prong and used the hard solder. I got all four of the prongs on - I wish I could show you. It's my first pronged piece. Now to add a jump ring, then cleaning and then set the mother of pearl in it. I very much appreciate the videos and advice. Cheers!
I must, must, must get round to doing a four-prong, single gallery setting! I keep intending to and then not doing it! A-a-a-a-ar-r-r-g-g-g-h!
LOL. Hilary, You're too funny. Just remember that lots of jewelers go their whole lives without ever making a four-prong single gallery setting.
@@OnlineJewelryAcademy Thanks for the reassurance Prof. John, but I really want to do this and I will, I will. Soon. Very soon :-)
I just wanted to say that the address for Jen's website is wrong. Should be studio, not studios. :)
Thank you Dharlee. You were right. We have made the necessary corrections in order to ensure that viewers are able to find Jennifer's website.
Thanks for your support! : )
very nice
Glad you liked the video.
Thanks for your support! : )
Hahaha, it is very interesting to look at both of you teaching tgt not in lab but in a video.
Jennifer and I make a great teaching team. I hope you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for your support! : )
Hi! How do I determine measurements for the base wire with an oval cabochon?
Christy Martin One way would be to bend a piece of binding wire around the base of your stone. Then, transfer that measurement to your actual wire. The shift between gauge sizes should help make your base the right size. 🙂
What do you mean 3 times the metal thickness? So if you are using 18 gauge do you mean 3x1.02?
Hi Evelyn, Yes, exactly! It's just like what you do when you make a ring.
Thanks for your support! : )
Hi, sorry, just checking, you multiply the width of the stone x pi AND you add three times the metal thickness?
Jennifer Hermann yes.. Or u can do add the metal thickness to the length at the start and multiply that by pi... It's pretty much the same answer. The later is the way I was always thought to do it. But I'm from Europe so Americans seem to have their ways lol. Buts it's pretty much the same answer if u try both ways u will see 😉
how do you figure out the length if its not a round stone?
warp the wire around the stone and the cut it :D where the tips of the wire meet each other of course :D
What kind of brick is that?
That's a Magnesia block.
Sooooo.... Professor is not a protected title, i guess
Hi Lidia, Jennifer Monroe and I are both professors. We are entitled to use this title because we both posses a Masters of Fine Arts degree. This is a "terminal" degree. In other words, in the United States we cannot achieve a higher academic credential in our field. Here are a few links that will help to clarify my usage of this title: www.onlinejewelryacademy.com/about.html, www.onlinejewelryacademy.com/online-vs-classroom-video.html, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Professor.
Thanks for your support! : )
@@OnlineJewelryAcademy so weird... in northern europe, just a few select people get to have the title of Professor. I have my masters too... but certainly not a professor (which would involve being a senior teacher at university amongst kther things). It triggered me :) as use of the word professor is kinda only for a select group over here. It feels for me the same as calling every lawyer "your Honor". I see in the wiki that America is much more loose in that terminology. Thanks for the clarification!