Now this is one of the best damn explanations of the differences of the fuel pumps that you can benefit from out there! Simple.....right parts for the right application! Thanks Milo!
Ken Thanks, I made this video in expectation, that it would help others. When you share your experiences, others can save time and money. I had to figure this one out myself. Too many people buy the wrong stuff!
Great video Milo Manx, to all vw folks there are a few guys online that restore the original "Pierburg" vw fuel pumps and they come with the correct pressure. Sure they cost but are well worth every penny. I purchased one from Air-cooled artifacts and it works flawlessly. Give him a try you get what you pay for. Thanks Milo Manx your video helped me dearly.
Hey milo great content here. I recently upgraded from a generator to an alternator? I have a fuel pump question. I’ve opted for the mechanical alternator fuel pump. I have the correct lengthfuel pump rod but I had to notch the fuel pump stand to create the gap for the lever under the fuel pump. That all went great until I put the gaskets on. Do I also need to notch the gasket to create enough clearance for the lever that hangs below the pump? Sheesh I hope that all makes sense
@@milomanx6531 thank you. I just bought all the stuff for the alternator engine to convert it over to the new style pump and didn't want to break anything. Your feed and your information is always top shelf. Keep it up, sir.
THANK YOU - finally, an explanation that made sense to this old frog. I have a vintage trike project. Gen., with a Alt pump (evidently) and push rod less than 4" long (ground down?) Get 4psi fuel pressure at carb (new 34PICT-3) loading up, smoking, burning eyes. Have tried everything 'old timers' recommended. New shim under needle to lower float, double gskts under pump spacer, and under pump. Fuel pressure regulator, (two) actually, thought first was defective. Still cannot get below 2.5/3 psi pressure. Carb mfg recommends 2 - 2.5 psi. ? Do you know the fix for this issue?.... And my timing mark jumps around. fix for this? I'll gladly donate if you're the one who can help me get this to run right.
See my other video. It addresses all the issues you have, except the timing jumping. I would try a condenser if point style distributor, maybe a different timing light. The UA-cam video is: ua-cam.com/video/vRYOW9WLHLs/v-deo.html
I removed the spacer and can’t get it back in as the push rod is loaded up against the crankcase towards the dizzy. Any idea how to unload the rod and get it to go back up into the spacer and get the spacer back on? TIA. I’ll turn the crankshaft and see if that works 🤷🏼♂️
If this video helped you, please donate $1.00 to paypal.me/MiloManx Click on the link. Thank You
Now this is one of the best damn explanations of the differences of the fuel pumps that you can benefit from out there! Simple.....right parts for the right application! Thanks Milo!
Ken Thanks, I made this video in expectation, that it would help others. When you share your experiences, others can save time and money. I had to figure this one out myself. Too many people buy the wrong stuff!
Great video Milo Manx, to all vw folks there are a few guys online that restore the original "Pierburg" vw fuel pumps and they come with the correct pressure. Sure they cost but are well worth every penny. I purchased one from Air-cooled artifacts and it works flawlessly. Give him a try you get what you pay for. Thanks Milo Manx your video helped me dearly.
Thank you for making this, it’s very helpful 🙏
Hey milo great content here.
I recently upgraded from a generator to an alternator? I have a fuel pump question. I’ve opted for the mechanical alternator fuel pump. I have the correct lengthfuel pump rod but I had to notch the fuel pump stand to create the gap for the lever under the fuel pump. That all went great until I put the gaskets on. Do I also need to notch the gasket to create enough clearance for the lever that hangs below the pump?
Sheesh I hope that all makes sense
Excellent information, Milo. One question: If you replace the pushrod, tube and pump are they interchangeable?
You can switch to newer or later style, but, all parts must match. P.S. All replacement tubes are the same, but not originals.
@@milomanx6531 thank you. I just bought all the stuff for the alternator engine to convert it over to the new style pump and didn't want to break anything.
Your feed and your information is always top shelf. Keep it up, sir.
THANK YOU - finally, an explanation that made sense to this old frog. I have a vintage trike project. Gen., with a Alt pump (evidently) and push rod less than 4" long (ground down?) Get 4psi fuel pressure at carb (new 34PICT-3) loading up, smoking, burning eyes. Have tried everything 'old timers' recommended. New shim under needle to lower float, double gskts under pump spacer, and under pump. Fuel pressure regulator, (two) actually, thought first was defective. Still cannot get below 2.5/3 psi pressure. Carb mfg recommends 2 - 2.5 psi. ? Do you know the fix for this issue?.... And my timing mark jumps around. fix for this?
I'll gladly donate if you're the one who can help me get this to run right.
See my other video. It addresses all the issues you have, except the timing jumping. I would try a condenser if point style distributor, maybe a different timing light. The UA-cam video is: ua-cam.com/video/vRYOW9WLHLs/v-deo.html
Nice job Milo, informative 👍👍
I removed the spacer and can’t get it back in as the push rod is loaded up against the crankcase towards the dizzy. Any idea how to unload the rod and get it to go back up into the spacer and get the spacer back on? TIA. I’ll turn the crankshaft and see if that works 🤷🏼♂️
The fuel pump push is to be removed, before removing spacer. Push rod goes in AFTER the spacer.
@@milomanx6531 thanks
pressure should be what?
Watch it again, all is explained.
Are you still doing UA-cam?
What Happen to you, we need new videos PLEASE. Are you in Daytona. Thanks, Georgia Mad Mike Said That.