A perfumer's guide to leather notes in perfumery
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2024
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Timestamps:
00:00 - Intro
01:50 - Suederal LT
03:58 - Isobutyl quinolene
06:56 - Castoreum (Natural & Synthetic)
11:02 - para-Cresol
12:18 - Rectified Cade Oil
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References:
www.fragrantica.com/news/Cuir...
www.fragrantica.com/news/Isob...
www.fragrantica.com/news/Cast...
veganfoundry.com/are-beavers-...
Greetings Sam. My easiest leather accord would be:
Base: (Could either be Sandalwood, vetiver, frankincense, or even copal) 2
Alpha Ionone: 2
Birch or Cade tar as substitute for castoreum: 0.3 or even 0.4
You could also add some sort of jasmine, either natural or synthetic in substitution for indole, another 2.
Just search for the Synarome Cuir base in Wisemoor and you get a pretty good idea of what ingredients you might want to look at
I thoroughly enjoy castoreum. In America, I know a hunter who makes a castoreum-infused whiskey, which makes a lovely raspberry whiskey (castoreum has a long use also as a raspberry flavoring, and the famous “blue raspberry”)
Where can I find this man so I can give him all my money 💰
Thank you. One of my goals in perfumery, is to recapture Canali's for Men. One of it accords is leather, but as you mention in your video, there are many variations of "leather." You have given me ideas to play around with.
Indeed. I, for example, like a lot suede - forward leathers instead of IBQ. Because you could use straight out IBQ and get a proper leather without making an accord. However, i do actually like a lot to get an own accord and play with it.
A little correction regarding DeLaire. Georges de Laire founded the company in the late 1870's, the year usually is stated is 1878. One of the most important and successful DeLaire bases, Ambre 83, was paunched in 1889, according to Symrise (which is the succesor company to Haarmann & Reimer, which first synthesised vanillin and with whom DeLaire had close bonds up to Haarmann helping de Laire financing the foundation of the DeLaire company, ultimately leading to Symrise inheriting the rights on the famous DeLaire bases when the company closed its doors and is the reason why Symrise relaunched modernised versions of icon DeLaire bases like Ambre 83 and Mousse de Saxe) and the founder retired in 1890 (or 1992, sources vary on this). Edgar de Laire, to whom your source (I generally wouldn't trust the articles on this site when it comes to details 😉) is referring to, was the nephew of Georges and followed him as the head of the company after his retirement. I'm not aware of him also founding another company which did exactly the same things as an artificial competition.
Castoreum is not banned from most places, and it is also rather cheap for an animal derived material. While European beavers are endangered, American beavers are not, and both species are still killed when they interfere with water ways too much. The glands are rather big, both sexes have them and quite some castoreum can be obtained from them. Which are some reasons why it is not too expensive. And this is why the use of those materials in my honest opinion is not at all unethical, in contrary I find it unethical to not use as much from an animal that gets killed anyway. But that's just me.
p-Cresol to me smells more fecal animalic, m-Cresol on the other hand is straight up leather. The latter is also offered more widely than the former, therefor I would recommend getting a sample of it as well.
As birch and juniper tar oils are restricted and for beginners potentially hard to use, Leather/Cuir MD by Firmenich could be an alternative. This molecular distilled hickory derived pyrogenic material is both, far less strong and unrestricted (for now).
Especially in old-school leather accords, various styrax materials can be quite useful. Cuir base by Firmenich relies heavily on styrax.
If I want to introduce *leather leather* to a blend, I meanwhile put in some Leather Oud (Firmenich), quite repulsive for many who smell it neat or at 10%, but in blend will behave much better and makes it far less abstract and far more photorealistic.
Thank you! I love these types of videos ❤
I've got a shipment of raw materials coming tomorrow from PA. It's mainly woods, musks, and a couple of leathers. I couldn't have wished for better timing or content. Thank you for being my favorite perfumery teacher!
Mind sharing the link to where you get your woods?
@@anthonycoffee2016 It's Perfumer's Apprentice.
Appreciated ❤ nice work keep it up bro
Suederal always reminds me of going to a shoe store and opening up a new box of black leather shoes in a good way, and at 100% isobutyl quinoline
smells like a rubber tire to me. Thanks for the video, Sam.
Yeah, IBQ is kinda disgusting imo. To me smells like a superheavily tanned, new leather jacket, or some sort of petrol / paraffin waxed one. Oud can nuance leather into smelling like veg tanned hides, or saffron / violet ingredients, can nuance it close to suede.
This video reminded me that I made a perfume blend accidentally and need to recreate it one day.
Really interesting video. For me lether notes are really tricky to handle. I always use birch tar at 0,1% dilution. Everything above makes it to prominent for my taste. I also own Para-Cresol which I have to wrap in a thick layer of bubble rap as it is so potent. But at 100% it smells like a mix of concrete and sh*t in the Air and fills a room instantly! At the beginning I was not a big fan of IBQ but now I like it a lot. It has a very distinctive green smell.
Thank You For The Education 🙏🏽
love your content.very informative video
Thank you
I’ve got meta-Cresol in 0.2% dilution 😂 and you are right it has like the para-cresol a play doh, plastic kind of smell.
This came at the perfect time
Hermes Cuir D'ange and Chanel Cuir de Russie are hands down the best leathers i have ever tried
Amazing video,i really like your videos and I've been thinking,why don't you start a sort of online courses about all of this?You're really good at explaining perfume stuff
Thank you! Yes I would like to do so when I have the time to put together a high quality course
Hey, Sam! As a collector, I have a question: do "natural essences" evolve (change) _more_ on the skin, or do the "synthetic/artificial" ones evolve more? I've heard opinions on both ends, so I thought I'd ask my trusted… perfumer? Perfumist? Chemist? Alchemist? Molecule wizard? Odour artist? Well… You! Thanks in advance for your patience.
Hi can you make a video on tea like materials?
Amazing video once again, could you do a video on gasoline/cocaine accords/ingredients? I’m experimenting but I’m hitting a wall, maybe there’s some ingredients I’m unaware exists that might know of
I have one question, Sam. - Can we dilute some of raw materials in alcohol, that have already been diluted in some other solvents like TEC? Will it effect the raw material in a bad way?
Hi Sam! What do you know about F-TEC materials? How should be those materials diluted? Same way as other materials? Same 10%?
Very informative videos👍! How much iso E super I should add to 100ml perfume?
This channel is a pure gem and I really can't get how all this information is free.
Hi Sam. I've recently found your channel and it's so informative and exactly what I've been looking for! Thank you for your diligent work! I'm looking to make my first perfumes and was wondering if you'd had much experience with Russian leather accords as I'm finding it hard to understand all the safety information around these kind of accords. They seem really poisonous and dangerous to handle and dispose of etc. also I was wanting to discuss getting supplies from you. I see you have starter kits and was wondering if you made tailored kits as I have specific eo's aroma chemicals raw materials etc in mind but I live in Australia and we have no suppliers who sell under 1kg units of any raw materials and shipping from say perfumers apprentice in the US is seemingly like it might not be possible for all the things I want. I'd love to discuss prices and an items list and postage with you to see if you can supply me. Thanks so much Sam
Thank you! And you'd need to look at the safety of each raw material on a case by case basis. I heard para cresol can be dangerous for example. And no I don't do tailored kits unfortunately. You could try purchasing at Harrison Joseph who we partnered with for the starter kit since I believe they ship to Australia
@@sammacer Ok. Thanks for the tips
Hello Sam, Do you know a website where they sell individual fragrance oils of individual scents like just peach or just violet etc. I found Perfumer's Apprentice but for some reason it didn't bring up the cart page. I had picked out peach, rose, violet, Hyacinth and other scents. I want to get very pure smelling notes and wear only one scent at a time to feel how it feels and really get into the character of the one scent. Then later make some combinations. I have to start easy on the budget.
Can these materials be used with home made deodorants of shea butter?
Hello Sam, I am writing to you from Chile, and I wanted to know if you have any information about a car flavoring product, from the brand "CHEMICAL GUYS", and their product is called (scent leather), and I ask you because I would like to know how Can you replicate that beautiful smell of leather, or what perfumery note it belongs to, or some synthetic compound, well I ask about the smell of leather, if anyone has information about this leather note, I hope you answer me, greetings.-
Where did you get your para-Cresol?
Is there another name for it?
Interesting about that truffle smell. Would you say that IBQ is still used today in modern perfumery? I can certainly detect it in the newest edp of Cabochard, but have perfumers generally abandoned it in favour of other leather materials for new releases?
Yes, IBQ is still used today. It's probably the most common leather material used in perfumery, often in combination with others such as Safraliene which is part of the leather accord you smell in TF's Tuscan Leather. It's also in Creed Aventus; and I even detect it in Lost Cherry.
There are a number of different versions of IBQ, from 6-sec to 8-sec and it's sometimes also referred too as Pyralone.
@@logocracycopy Thank you!
Hello i am new here you have a very interesting topics. I hope you can make a content about Chanel Allure Edition Blanche. I just wonder how this perfume is created Its my favourite perfume since its launch in 2008
Its my least liked note however the only leather i love is hermes "Kelly Caleche". Id u know fragrance with this kind of leather profile, let me know
Estoy tratando de conseguir un aroma muy bueno de desodorantes de Glade se llama AUTO NUEVO . Es genial ! Si alguien sabe los componentes.. le agradeceré
Do perfumes need to pass a safety test or something before using?
No need as long as you are following IFRA Guides
in Z11™ 10 MIP (Firmenich) means Z11 Product prediluted @10 % ?
Yes!
Where can you source all those raw materials for perfumes
See my 20 minute perfumery course video for a list of suppliers
Thanks Sam I'll check it
Queer de Russy 😌🤭
That stache tho 🤔
Note boozy
Sam my mate I am still waiting for ur perfume ingredients kit sort some thing out plz.
There are kinder ways to ask for things to which you are not entitled, friend.
@@mickeyconnor830 what’s your issue who rattled your cage. You want to run your lips while standing in front of me.
@@mrsniper9873 Big man's got a raw nerve... In the Army we called it an, "on the spot correction." So yes, I have, and would happily do so, again.