@DeVries Fab & Machine where does the cut begin? Is it at the highest point? Sorry to be a pain I've just always been curious how it's done with going too far sideways into the lip.
@@FATKIDRacing I just line up on the radius and feed in from there. The cutter I use does leave a small radius but much smaller than the radius that’s already there
How much material is left? I’m measuring my wheel and it looks like I’ll have about .200 material thickness after I cut it. Do you think that’s enough?
I only take 1/8 off per side, I measured another wheel milled by a company that sells a lot of them and copied that. Ive done a couple sets and the tire shop says they mount like a normal 22. I do plan to a longer detailed video on the process at some point
Thanks very much for the reply I am in the process of getting some milled and will try the 1/8th and mount one then go with do the rest accordingly! I’ll watch for your video! Thanks!
How could it be only ⅛" off and not ¼"? I know it is small difference, but in the scheme of stretch or pressure on the bead of a tire, that's what's to consider. I don't know, maybe technically tire manufacturers even say their diameter indicators for tires have a +/- variant allowed. But it should be researched for certainty, which results in ultimate safety.
@@devriesfabmachine8721 yeah, I read that in the other reply. Just saying it should be confirmed exactly why, as a ¼" would relate to the ½" down to 22". Otherwise it would appear to result in 22¼". Know what I mean?
@@HTSS8 I get what you’re saying, but it’s not really that critical,tires have a lot of flexibility. I’ve seen guys run 22s on them without removing any material without any problems, not that I would recommend it. I’ve done a few sets this way and talked to the tire shop that mounted the tires and they said they were no different to mount than a normal 22. If I were to take a full 1/4 off I’d run into the aluminum around the lip getting thin and possibly failing.
@@devriesfabmachine8721 OK, I'm not trying to nit pick, but by the notion of tire flexibility, then could be assumed not mill off even the ⅛" either. What's [another] ⅛" hurt? But if the whole ¼" is more material than the rim has to give up then that's the risk taken, give and get a little.
Thank you
Now when you say you take off 1/8, do you mean the circumstance? How do you know how far to cut off of the lip area? Love the video!
I actually take .150 off per side depth of cut, for a total of .3” off the diameter.
@DeVries Fab & Machine where does the cut begin? Is it at the highest point? Sorry to be a pain I've just always been curious how it's done with going too far sideways into the lip.
@@FATKIDRacing I just line up on the radius and feed in from there. The cutter I use does leave a small radius but much smaller than the radius that’s already there
How much material is left? I’m measuring my wheel and it looks like I’ll have about .200 material thickness after I cut it. Do you think that’s enough?
Yeah usually around 1/4 inch thick in the corner.
Where are you located and prices?
in have the equipment to turn mine down how do you know how far to cut into the very outer lip of the wheel
I just measured a set I had that were done already, ends up being about .150 I take off, just over 1/8 inch.
The cost to have a set done re 6
Hi can you tell me how much you took off total from bead? Was it 1/4 all around? Did that only leave you with 1/8th bead thickness? Thanks!
I only take 1/8 off per side, I measured another wheel milled by a company that sells a lot of them and copied that. Ive done a couple sets and the tire shop says they mount like a normal 22. I do plan to a longer detailed video on the process at some point
Thanks very much for the reply I am in the process of getting some milled and will try the 1/8th and mount one then go with do the rest accordingly! I’ll watch for your video! Thanks!
How could it be only ⅛" off and not ¼"? I know it is small difference, but in the scheme of stretch or pressure on the bead of a tire, that's what's to consider. I don't know, maybe technically tire manufacturers even say their diameter indicators for tires have a +/- variant allowed. But it should be researched for certainty, which results in ultimate safety.
I measured another wheel that was already milled from a company that has been doing it for a long time and matched the circumference.
@@devriesfabmachine8721 yeah, I read that in the other reply. Just saying it should be confirmed exactly why, as a ¼" would relate to the ½" down to 22". Otherwise it would appear to result in 22¼". Know what I mean?
@@HTSS8 I get what you’re saying, but it’s not really that critical,tires have a lot of flexibility. I’ve seen guys run 22s on them without removing any material without any problems, not that I would recommend it. I’ve done a few sets this way and talked to the tire shop that mounted the tires and they said they were no different to mount than a normal 22. If I were to take a full 1/4 off I’d run into the aluminum around the lip getting thin and possibly failing.
@@devriesfabmachine8721 OK, I'm not trying to nit pick, but by the notion of tire flexibility, then could be assumed not mill off even the ⅛" either. What's [another] ⅛" hurt?
But if the whole ¼" is more material than the rim has to give up then that's the risk taken, give and get a little.
@@HTSS8 it works fine as is, so I’d rather not risk milling it to thin, you can mill yours however you like tho.
adres please
I’m in central New Jersey