First of all I would like to say, I have watched and learned a lot from all of your videos. You are doing a great job so please keep it up as I am sure you are helping out the Mustang community as much as you have helped me during the prep stage of my installs on my 2011 GT500. I would like to point out to you an error I noticed in your video, you stated that the angle of the drive shaft is a (-5) degrees of angle and the pinion yoke has a (-3) degrees of angle. With the way the upper control arm is setup right now you actually have (2) degrees of positive pinion angle, NOT (-2) degrees of pinion angle. BMR advises with their poly bushings to have (-2) degrees of pinion angle. In the video posted by Kelly of BMR he showed a (-2) degree of angle at the bell housing or pinion flange of the transmission, then he showed that angle of the pinion at the axle and explained that you want the pinion angle at the axle to be two degrees to the right of the angle at the flat of the bell housing or pinion flange of the transmission, so the he adjusted the pinion angle so the angle at the rear axle was (0) which is two degrees to the right of negative 2. This was very confusing to me at first but now I understand that to get a negative degree pinion angle all you need to understand is the angle of the rear yoke needs to be (2) degrees to the right of the angle of the angle of the angle at the bell housing or pinion flange on the transmission. Again thank you for all the videos you have posted as it has helped me out very much with all the mods I have installed myself after watching your videos. Happy New Year.
Awesome video, great info, answered my question about which holes to use upper or lower. Also step by step viewing of what you are doing is great, not like some that talk and then "bingo" part is out. You sit back and think ok fine but how did you get it out. Your videos are awesome, keep up the great work.
Jeez I’m not sure if I could do this on Jack stands in my garage. I’ve done adjustable bmr panhard bar, Koni shocks and struts, Sr lowering springs and sway bar end links on Jack stands by myself but this looks challenging. Great video though
I did mine out in the parking lot on my back. I even put a bmr bearing in the upper diff at the same time...now that was a pain in the ass. But Yes it is possible, Also I found out that that huge bolt under the seat is a torque to yield bolt. Had to replace my bolt.
I have this same set up. When I torqued down my control arm, my mount holes would not line up with the body. I couldn't get the bolts started. I had to use a stepping bit to make the holes bigger. Unfortunately my stuff set on the shelf for a couple years so I couldn't return it.
I wish you’d show how to get that top bracket out because it’s impossible. The threaded part that sticks for under the rear seats is to tall and it won’t come out. Like to see you left that part in your video to see what you did
@Marcus Keeler I know this is quite an old comment, but what year were you working with? There's plenty of room on the 13/14s. If anything the axle could come down a bit to help with working room if you're stuck using jack stands, but the fuel tank is a non-issue.
I read that the torque spec for the bolt under the back seat is 350lbs. Do some of the aftermarket upper control arms have a lower torque spec? Most torque wrenches don't even go that high and I would imagine that it could be a bit of a challenge to torque that bolt down at 350lbs
So what about that stock bushing that you are connecting to? Why would you not upgrade that out too? Also when measuring pinion angle the diff looked like it was supported? Are you simulating the car being on the ground?
what type of protractor are you using for the measurement? Can you simply unbolt the UCA from the axle and then turn to adjust or do you have to take the UCA completely off the car everytime? Seems like such a chore especially if I am using jackstands....
You told me what size tools but didn't tell me which one to take out the bolt the whole reason I watched the video was to save crawling under there with all of them
Anyone experience clunking? After I had a shop install Ford performance cobra jet drag springs and adjustable BMR upper control arm started getting a loud clunk when shifting, over bumps, something sounds loose. Shop rechecked it and found nothing wrong.. pretty annoying
@@CoyoteDe24 just put it on and it still clunks, I have a brand new adjustable arm, mount and bushing. Angler is set right but when I start it first gear it just sounds like someone uses a dead blow under the rear of my body. Everything’s tight, I’ve had 3 shops look at it now and no one can figure it out.
My bolt for the bmr bracket won't go through the bushing abs the bracket has like a slip joint 3 over lapping holes versus the 2 separate holes shown here... any suggestions?
Thanks for another excellent video! This is very helpful! Would you please help me with two questions: 1) for the front bolt (the one that you access by removing the back seat cushion), the service manual from Ford says its correct torque number should be 325 lb-ft. Where is the 240 lb-ft number from? 2) is a comment. The service manual emphasized that the bolt connecting the upper control arm and the differential bushing should be torqued at ride height. Otherwise, damage to the bushing could occur.
I'm having issues removing the first bolt from underneath the rear seat. It is really on there and so far my impact as well as a breaker bar has not helped. The sucker is really on there tight. Any suggestions?
I'm assuming the installation will be similar on an 05-10 model? I keep seeing all this stuff about having to lower the gas tank to remove the mount, yet everything I have seen in videos and forums, no one seems to do that. Do you know if it is actually required? Thanks for the great videos.
+Wes G Yeah I ended up doing it along with a panhard bar, LCAs and offroad Xpipe. I couldn't get the UCA bracket to even move without dropping the gas tank. Luckily the tank was empty. Thanks for the reply man.
Bill I have swapped by stock rear upper and lower control arms I started hearing a clunk when ever power was put to or taken from the rear end I figured it was bc I had only the bmr lowers on but after installing the upper the noise is still there and a slight whining seems so be coming from the rear end please help with any suggestions you may have... could this be a geometry issue?
Anyone running these run into any NVH issues? I have heard it's hit or miss. I wish someone would release an adjustable arm with a Rubber bushing or softer Poly.. I can't stand NVH.
I had a shop install the BMR upper control arm mount as well as adjustable upper control arm, however, they couldn't get the bolt at 8:27 to thread with the BMR mount. During a test drive the bolt would pop out. :( They said when they would try to torque the bolt down it would just spin and not bite. Anyone else run into this issue? I ended up getting a slightly longer (4 inch I think) grade 8 - 9/16 bolt from a local hardware store and securing it with a locking washer and nut. Any concerns about this not holding?
I wish I could take my car to you guys. You make the work look easy & flawless. great videos
Thank you very much. Are you having trouble installing something?
It's called the right tools for the right job, oh and video editing.
First of all I would like to say, I have watched and learned a lot from all of your videos. You are doing a great job so please keep it up as I am sure you are helping out the Mustang community as much as you have helped me during the prep stage of my installs on my 2011 GT500. I would like to point out to you an error I noticed in your video, you stated that the angle of the drive shaft is a (-5) degrees of angle and the pinion yoke has a (-3) degrees of angle. With the way the upper control arm is setup right now you actually have (2) degrees of positive pinion angle, NOT (-2) degrees of pinion angle. BMR advises with their poly bushings to have (-2) degrees of pinion angle. In the video posted by Kelly of BMR he showed a (-2) degree of angle at the bell housing or pinion flange of the transmission, then he showed that angle of the pinion at the axle and explained that you want the pinion angle at the axle to be two degrees to the right of the angle at the flat of the bell housing or pinion flange of the transmission, so the he adjusted the pinion angle so the angle at the rear axle was (0) which is two degrees to the right of negative 2. This was very confusing to me at first but now I understand that to get a negative degree pinion angle all you need to understand is the angle of the rear yoke needs to be (2) degrees to the right of the angle of the angle of the angle at the bell housing or pinion flange on the transmission. Again thank you for all the videos you have posted as it has helped me out very much with all the mods I have installed myself after watching your videos. Happy New Year.
You guys make it look so easy lol.
A few companies sell that damn upper differential housing bushing but no vid installation!!
If I remember, this applies for all 2005 to 2014 S197 models
Shouldn't you set the pinion angle when the suspension is loaded?
Yes.
Awesome video, great info, answered my question about which holes to use upper or lower. Also step by step viewing of what you are doing is great, not like some that talk and then "bingo" part is out. You sit back and think ok fine but how did you get it out. Your videos are awesome, keep up the great work.
Jeez I’m not sure if I could do this on Jack stands in my garage. I’ve done adjustable bmr panhard bar, Koni shocks and struts, Sr lowering springs and sway bar end links on Jack stands by myself but this looks challenging. Great video though
I did mine out in the parking lot on my back. I even put a bmr bearing in the upper diff at the same time...now that was a pain in the ass. But Yes it is possible,
Also I found out that that huge bolt under the seat is a torque to yield bolt. Had to replace my bolt.
I have this same set up. When I torqued down my control arm, my mount holes would not line up with the body. I couldn't get the bolts started. I had to use a stepping bit to make the holes bigger. Unfortunately my stuff set on the shelf for a couple years so I couldn't return it.
Cool video, helped out installing bmr upper control arm
Thank You So Much Bill For The Great Videos! Keep It Up!!!
How did you get the correct preload on the axle on the 2 post lift? Did you measure the wheel gap or something when you used the jack under tha diff?
I wish you’d show how to get that top bracket out because it’s impossible. The threaded part that sticks for under the rear seats is to tall and it won’t come out. Like to see you left that part in your video to see what you did
How did you install it without lowering the gas tank?
@Marcus Keeler I know this is quite an old comment, but what year were you working with? There's plenty of room on the 13/14s. If anything the axle could come down a bit to help with working room if you're stuck using jack stands, but the fuel tank is a non-issue.
I read that the torque spec for the bolt under the back seat is 350lbs. Do some of the aftermarket upper control arms have a lower torque spec? Most torque wrenches don't even go that high and I would imagine that it could be a bit of a challenge to torque that bolt down at 350lbs
Nice video, thanks for the tips
Why would you have to remove that particular upper control arm to adjust it ? Just loosen both nuts
So would this not work on a 2010 Mustang GT ? 10-14 s197 are like the same exact body
Bill I can't decide between BMR or Steeda!? basically I need an adjustable UCA that isn't noisy! which UCA isn't noisy?? thanks in advance.
So it is perfectly fine to re-use the factory bolts? Since they are torqued down to a high torque spec, would it be better to use brand new bolts?
You can reuse the stock bolts.
So what about that stock bushing that you are connecting to? Why would you not upgrade that out too? Also when measuring pinion angle the diff looked like it was supported? Are you simulating the car being on the ground?
Correct. When installing the car needs to be "loaded" ideally a lift you can drive the wheels onto.
what type of protractor are you using for the measurement? Can you simply unbolt the UCA from the axle and then turn to adjust or do you have to take the UCA completely off the car everytime? Seems like such a chore especially if I am using jackstands....
Just an angle finder I got from Sears. YOu can adjust on the car by loosening the lock nut.
You told me what size tools but didn't tell me which one to take out the bolt the whole reason I watched the video was to save crawling under there with all of them
Anyone experience clunking?
After I had a shop install Ford performance cobra jet drag springs and adjustable BMR upper control arm started getting a loud clunk when shifting, over bumps, something sounds loose. Shop rechecked it and found nothing wrong.. pretty annoying
Yea me to, it’s insane no one can tell me what the hell.
@@becauseboost4726 did you do differential bushing? I did the BMR differential bushing and stopped the clunking!
@@CoyoteDe24 just put it on and it still clunks, I have a brand new adjustable arm, mount and bushing. Angler is set right but when I start it first gear it just sounds like someone uses a dead blow under the rear of my body. Everything’s tight, I’ve had 3 shops look at it now and no one can figure it out.
My bolt for the bmr bracket won't go through the bushing abs the bracket has like a slip joint 3 over lapping holes versus the 2 separate holes shown here... any suggestions?
Thanks for another excellent video! This is very helpful! Would you please help me with two questions: 1) for the front bolt (the one that you access by removing the back seat cushion), the service manual from Ford says its correct torque number should be 325 lb-ft. Where is the 240 lb-ft number from? 2) is a comment. The service manual emphasized that the bolt connecting the upper control arm and the differential bushing should be torqued at ride height. Otherwise, damage to the bushing could occur.
what rear sway bar is that you have on the stang in this vid plus i think i need to buy on
Thanks for the vid, my car is on ford racing lowering springs, drop is not that much though, will that be an issue with installation?
nope not at all
I'm having issues removing the first bolt from underneath the rear seat. It is really on there and so far my impact as well as a breaker bar has not helped. The sucker is really on there tight. Any suggestions?
Heat it up a little. It's got loctite on it
Use a breaker bar and put a metal tube to have even more leverage. A breaker bar alone won’t be enough, unless you’re really strong lol.
Does it come with the bracket ?
I'm assuming the installation will be similar on an 05-10 model? I keep seeing all this stuff about having to lower the gas tank to remove the mount, yet everything I have seen in videos and forums, no one seems to do that. Do you know if it is actually required? Thanks for the great videos.
I replaced mine a few days ago, just drop the rear end. I didnt mess with the gas tank, no need
+Wes G Yeah I ended up doing it along with a panhard bar, LCAs and offroad Xpipe. I couldn't get the UCA bracket to even move without dropping the gas tank. Luckily the tank was empty. Thanks for the reply man.
Matt Patrick had same problem on my 12 gt500.. I struggled like crazy..then I dropped the tank a few inches and it was easy
Just curious, is pinion angle still a factor on the non-adjustable UCA? I don't want to mess up the cars driveability.
+dylan5590 No it is a non issue
Is it mandatory to grease it up or are they pre greesed
I would always add some grease when installing.
Old video, but maybe response, anyone have any light knocks over bumps after this instal? It’s not every bump either…
Bill I have swapped by stock rear upper and lower control arms I started hearing a clunk when ever power was put to or taken from the rear end I figured it was bc I had only the bmr lowers on but after installing the upper the noise is still there and a slight whining seems so be coming from the rear end please help with any suggestions you may have... could this be a geometry issue?
ozz mann check pinion angle
I tryed to remove that bolt under the seat with air power tools and that bolt didnt move and im not strong enough with breaker bar
That bolt can be stubborn. Try some penetrating oil or heat and that may help.
I’ve used a 3 ft pole that slides over the breaker bar to get any bolt unstuck. Haven’t come across one that can stop me yet
Anyone running these run into any NVH issues? I have heard it's hit or miss. I wish someone would release an adjustable arm with a Rubber bushing or softer Poly.. I can't stand NVH.
Exactly. NVH sucks
where is BMR made
Made in the USA, Tampa Florida.
5:28 That’s what she said! 😹
don't you need the car under weight to make the correct measurements?
+Nathan Grady You need the suspension loaded which is why I have the pole jack in the video but I forgot to mention that.
What sway bar is that?
Whiteline
I had a shop install the BMR upper control arm mount as well as adjustable upper control arm, however, they couldn't get the bolt at 8:27 to thread with the BMR mount. During a test drive the bolt would pop out. :( They said when they would try to torque the bolt down it would just spin and not bite. Anyone else run into this issue? I ended up getting a slightly longer (4 inch I think) grade 8 - 9/16 bolt from a local hardware store and securing it with a locking washer and nut. Any concerns about this not holding?
These suspension mods will make your Pony into a Thoroughbred. This is a real mod...stop putting fake vents and do this!
Yes sir 💯
spending all that time and money shouldn't you put in better bushing on housing so its not a weak link ?
6:10 that torque spec is only 130 ft-lbs ....not 200 !!!.
Why would you install the front upper higher bolt hole rather than the bottom hole so you can get the positive angle ??