I have a 55 Chevy 3100 that’s been in the family since 69. In a couple years my boys and I are redoing it. I’ve already got a new frame with 4 link and mustang 2 on it. Lots of other parts already. I’m very thankful for all the content you out out! Keep up the good work, this fantastic old school content is priceless. I’m only 40 years old and grew up with a dad who was a hot rod car show judge. I’m really hoping my boys acquire the same itch as I have. Thanks again
After the c-notch template is marked on the frame, I would recommend drilling a hole into the frame in each corner of the intended cut. A rounded corner tends to have more rigidity at the intersections of the cut. If that makes any sense.
Perhaps I missed it, but more likely I didn’t explain it very well but...I was suggesting to drill perhaps 1/4 inch holes in the corners of the intersecting locations of the actual cuts on the frame of the c-notch. That slightly rounded edge at the top of the cut on each corner helps prevent cracks
Great video! My C-notch install would have been much easier if I would have removed the bed... Overall though, it wasn't that tough for a one man install, lying on my back in the driveway... The rivets were definitely the hardest thing to deal with out of the whole install. I would highly suggest a face shield and some thick welding gloves for sparks and when those cut-off wheels inevitably fail on you and send shards flying.
Nice great video.. I love the part ... That SOB was tough.. I have to edit a lot of mine 😃.. next time you drag out the air hammer call it Big Nasty, that’s the nickname for the bigger ones ... 5 stars
I enjoyed the part when Dave called the rivet a little SOB. I have a sign in my work space that reads. WATCH FOR FLYING TOOLS IN THIS AREA just for reasons like that.
One day later I keep hitting the 10 second rewind on the SOB part. It has me belly laughing. We all know how frustrating little things like that can be. Lmao.
I would love for this guy to get his hands on my 70 shortbed CST. It needs rockers, a door skin, and a cab corner. Hey brothers, I'm in CA. Wanna work on my truck? It's a cool one. 402BB/th400 truck
Yes, we're always looking for projects. Please contact our office and leave your information for the UA-cam producer to contact you. You can ask for Alex.
Started on mine this evening and doing the passenger side first. I’ve noticed (after it’s on and bolted up) that the rear end is not centered in the notch... I did use the existing 3 holes in the frame for the front of the notch, so assume all is well.? I haven’t lifted the rear end up yet to see its exact figment, but just looks off. Is this normal.?
Taking into consideration that a person would move any wires or lines that are on the inside of the frame out of the way, Is it safe to use a plasma cutter in this scenario?
A true back yard engineer, love the videos man,
When he said SOB! I subscribed. Real world issues you will run into. Love it.
Thanks for watching!
Big job, people don't realize the work involved to do this job the right way (the way you did). Thanks for the video.
Our pleasure!
I have a 55 Chevy 3100 that’s been in the family since 69. In a couple years my boys and I are redoing it. I’ve already got a new frame with 4 link and mustang 2 on it. Lots of other parts already. I’m very thankful for all the content you out out! Keep up the good work, this fantastic old school content is priceless. I’m only 40 years old and grew up with a dad who was a hot rod car show judge. I’m really hoping my boys acquire the same itch as I have. Thanks again
That is awesome!
After the c-notch template is marked on the frame, I would recommend drilling a hole into the frame in each corner of the intended cut. A rounded corner tends to have more rigidity at the intersections of the cut. If that makes any sense.
Thats exactly why we mentioned it in the video! Thanks for watching!
Perhaps I missed it, but more likely I didn’t explain it very well but...I was suggesting to drill perhaps 1/4 inch holes in the corners of the intersecting locations of the actual cuts on the frame of the c-notch. That slightly rounded edge at the top of the cut on each corner helps prevent cracks
@@thedailyvariety4407 We understood and its an excellent suggestion, if we missed it in the video that was an oversight. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@thedailyvariety4407 👍
Basically the only thing not mentioned in this video, but a potentially very useful tip. Still an excellent video overall.
You’re the man Dave
Thanks man!
Dave was mad !!
Love the brothers c10 videos lots of knowledge in these videos
Thanks man!
Learned how swear today from Dave. Lol.......Love that SOB hahahaha
Unpredictable for sure!
Ah, not a fan of lowered trucks but same principles apply to lowered cars. EXCELLENT VIDEO
The 67-72 c10 look amazing lowered even if it's just a little looks way more aggressive
Thanks for watching!
Great video! My C-notch install would have been much easier if I would have removed the bed... Overall though, it wasn't that tough for a one man install, lying on my back in the driveway... The rivets were definitely the hardest thing to deal with out of the whole install. I would highly suggest a face shield and some thick welding gloves for sparks and when those cut-off wheels inevitably fail on you and send shards flying.
Good tip!
Grinder with cut off disk
Love you bro .. thanks for all videos .. 🙏✝️♥️👽
Our pleasure!
Cool kit!
You do some great videos
"Wings or sumthing. . . ."
🤣👍
LOL, at least we know you watched the whole thing!
Nicely explained.
Nice great video.. I love the part ... That SOB was tough.. I have to edit a lot of mine 😃.. next time you drag out the air hammer call it Big Nasty, that’s the nickname for the bigger ones ... 5 stars
Thanks again for watching
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTVno Thank You
I enjoyed the part when Dave called the rivet a little SOB. I have a sign in my work space that reads. WATCH FOR FLYING TOOLS IN THIS AREA just for reasons like that.
LOL, you can't predict what Dave is going to say, we just roll with it.
One day later I keep hitting the 10 second rewind on the SOB part. It has me belly laughing. We all know how frustrating little things like that can be. Lmao.
I’ve removed a bunch of little sons of bitches working on my 66, love the content
Haha, thanks!
Sweet!
Can you please do a tutorial of how to replace fuel lines on a 1960s Chevy pick up truck
We will add that to our request list. Thank you for the suggestion.
"UA-cam master certified" patch 🤣
A little comedy!
I would love for this guy to get his hands on my 70 shortbed CST. It needs rockers, a door skin, and a cab corner. Hey brothers, I'm in CA. Wanna work on my truck? It's a cool one.
402BB/th400 truck
Yes, we're always looking for projects. Please contact our office and leave your information for the UA-cam producer to contact you. You can ask for Alex.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV awesome. Thank you.
QA1 suggested that I remove the diagonal brace on both sides for installation of their c-notch???
I've got worse words that I use for those rivets 🤣
Let us know when you get those wings!
Thanks for watching 'til the end!
You forgot the most important part. Once you have the C-notch bolted in, Weld it !
Is everything the same for a leaf spring truck
Yep, 100% the same.
Started on mine this evening and doing the passenger side first. I’ve noticed (after it’s on and bolted up) that the rear end is not centered in the notch... I did use the existing 3 holes in the frame for the front of the notch, so assume all is well.? I haven’t lifted the rear end up yet to see its exact figment, but just looks off. Is this normal.?
It's not critical for it to be perfectly placed as long as the rear end is able to use all the new clearance.
Ok thanks. If I finish the driver side today, I’ll be able to jack it up and check it out.
Jonathan I have the same thing going on I will finish tomorrow in my eyes it’s off about 1/2 forward.
@@guadalupeacevedo7236 I haven’t gotten back to mine to finish it yet.. unfortunately got too busy with work.
How did yours turn out?
Taking into consideration that a person would move any wires or lines that are on the inside of the frame out of the way, Is it safe to use a plasma cutter in this scenario?
100%
Any reason why you wouldn't want to weld it as well?
Most people would probably finish it by welding. However, it's designed as a bolt-in because not everyone has a welder or access to one.
Did you build those C notches? Or did they come pre fab from a manufacturer?
what about trailing arm shims?
sparks will burn the lens on your camera. Ask me how I know LOL
We've gone through a few, its all about getting the good shot.
Do you recommend welding the brackets?
Its not necessary, but it doesn't hurt if you have the equipment already.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV oh I see, thanks
You can always center punch the rivets and drill the heads off also or even the whole rivet !
Great tip, thanks!
Are you guys located in California? Where can I find you guys and your guys's shop
Hello, Brothers has moved to Bowling Green KY. You can order parts online or call our team at 1-800-977-BROS
Haha 😂 sometimes there sob! 😅
Your videos are getting really good and very informative. Love seeing the real life shit. Not the politically correct crap.
We're not doing TV magic here, its all real work and you guys might as well get to see it as it happens. Thanks for watching!
Would this be similar to a 87 r10
No idea about the frames on the R Series. Contact Classic Performance Products and see if they have your answer.
WHY WHY WHY lower a truck? Why? You are reducing functionality just for looks. Kind of goes completely against a pickup...functionality.