I highly recommend rear sway bar reinforcement plates on the E36. When running lowered suspension and thicker sway bars, the mounts tend to rip right out of the rear subframe. I learned that the hard way…
Matt those trim pieces at the top of the fold-down seats are NLA. The soft-touch rubberized coating literally melts off and the off-white plastic shows beneath. You can easily strip the coating, clean up the parts and respray with 3M rubberized coating or other (I literally scrubbed the coating off with some IPA and my thumbs). It works great and looks OEM just like new when done. Also that trunk left-bottom trim piece is also NLA - take care of it you won't find one better than that one.
Now that you have all the rear carpeting out I would put sound dampening material in the rear. I found in my car the rear seats and spare tire sheet metal allow a lot of noise into the cabin
Our E46 has KW V3 Suspension. For the rear top shock adjustment we bought the 'Thumb Screw Adjuster Extensions'. They stay attached to the top of the shock. We cut out a tasteful size circle on top of the trunk liner there. All we have to do pop the trunk, reach in and make adjustments.
Matt. Top tip for releasing the rear springs is to insert the scissor jack between the spring perch and the body. Makes it 100% less intimidating. Hope this helps for when the Ohlins arrive 👍
First dibs on the suspension when you swap in the other setup. My 98 M3 is on bilstein sports with H&R sport springs. Not a bad ride but needs some adjustability.
Matt, I also had Koni shocks on my previous BMW's. The diagrams were completely useless. I think I had to install the shocks several times because the diagrams were so unclear and I had to try several times to get them to install right. They were decent shocks. But the installation experience were very poor.
When I installed the Dinan rear strut brace I used black rubber edge trim that you can buy at Mcmaster-Carr or wherever. Cut the slots and big as you thing you need and install the edge trim around the perimeter. It's looks factory.
be careful though those left & right trim panels for the coupes are NLA - although you can probably find used in decent shape. I still remember I was freaking out when I did my Dinan rear bar - I bought an extra set of trim panels just in case for the future... and I've been hauling them in garbage bags in attic from place to place for 20 years... and after all this they're still available to buy for my sedan!
You should look into some depo glass headlights, clear corner light, clear side markers, and my personal favorites are the factory euro tail lights that don’t have the amber strip
Hey Matt, I saw you have a borla exhaust on your m3, how do you like the sound? I have a borla muffler on my E36 and I really like it but am looking for a slightly higher pitched sound. Thoughts?
Just came across your channel and I am obsessed. I had a question about your extended rotor bolts that you use to secure the spacers on to the face do the rotor. Did they came with the spacer kit? Or did you just purchase extended bolts from a hardware/auto parts store???
24:48 . . . ROUNDED is period correct NOT squared off. The stock steel OE e36 tower brace is round and was only included from factory in some e36 convertibles & the e36 M3 "Light Weight". They've been "NLA" forever, good luck finding one. This dude doesn't have a clue, smh'
@9:25 - No offense... but every "real man" I've ever seen just takes the sparks right to the face... or wherever they hit.... and likes it! (and then goes blind in one eye due to shrapnel).
9:20 . . . has this guy ever heard of a Dremel tool, smh. Let the high rpm's do all the work. DO NOT apply excessive pressure. That's why he's steadily getting burned alive, jeez'
because of age, not abutse, EVERY single bushing under the car is shot. What's supposed to happen at this point is dropping the entire rear sub-frame then go to town replacing said rubber pieces, especially the rear sub frame bushings. Sooooo' throwing away time and money on sways and overpriced Ohlins stuff is a mute point, smh. But I've only owned five BMW's, three of which are e36's so what do I know...
you have a good point but its form over function ! plus everything gets tightened up with the suspension at full extension , rather than with its wheels on and the full weight of the car on the suspension then tightened up so all bushes ECT are sitting in there correct potions if you are going to do it do it right
Theirs nothing better in life than wanting to do something YOUR WAY and having the means to do so.
I highly recommend rear sway bar reinforcement plates on the E36. When running lowered suspension and thicker sway bars, the mounts tend to rip right out of the rear subframe. I learned that the hard way…
Gold calipers would look so awesome on this paint color
Matt those trim pieces at the top of the fold-down seats are NLA. The soft-touch rubberized coating literally melts off and the off-white plastic shows beneath. You can easily strip the coating, clean up the parts and respray with 3M rubberized coating or other (I literally scrubbed the coating off with some IPA and my thumbs). It works great and looks OEM just like new when done. Also that trunk left-bottom trim piece is also NLA - take care of it you won't find one better than that one.
Luckily Scott, Dryceman, cleaned them perfectly with Dry Ice last week.
Dropping more "Gosh Darnit"s than Ned Flanders.
The shieid behind the brake disc is called a stone guard. Love watching this project evolve, keep up the great work.
Suspension and brakes came out good on both videos. That engineering degree came through on both videos 👍😁
Now that you have all the rear carpeting out I would put sound dampening material in the rear. I found in my car the rear seats and spare tire sheet metal allow a lot of noise into the cabin
Our E46 has KW V3 Suspension. For the rear top shock adjustment we bought the 'Thumb Screw Adjuster Extensions'. They stay attached to the top of the shock. We cut out a tasteful size circle on top of the trunk liner there. All we have to do pop the trunk, reach in and make adjustments.
Real men take the sparks to the face!
Matt. Top tip for releasing the rear springs is to insert the scissor jack between the spring perch and the body. Makes it 100% less intimidating. Hope this helps for when the Ohlins arrive 👍
First dibs on the suspension when you swap in the other setup. My 98 M3 is on bilstein sports with H&R sport springs. Not a bad ride but needs some adjustability.
Matt, I also had Koni shocks on my previous BMW's. The diagrams were completely useless. I think I had to install the shocks several times because the diagrams were so unclear and I had to try several times to get them to install right. They were decent shocks. But the installation experience were very poor.
Matty next time you wield the angle grinder, try letting the blade do all the work with little pressure. (Think of a polisher)
I'm a simple man... i see an E36 video, i hit like part 2
On any car with ABS, if the brake fluid reservoir goes dry there is a bleeding process you have to go through, typically using a scan tool.
This is like This Old House .. E36 edition
Get the reverse polarity kit for that Milwaukee and itll run backwards and it won't spray you with sparks
Great work. That looks so awesome. Please send link's for the big brake kit
When I installed the Dinan rear strut brace I used black rubber edge trim that you can buy at Mcmaster-Carr or wherever. Cut the slots and big as you thing you need and install the edge trim around the perimeter. It's looks factory.
be careful though those left & right trim panels for the coupes are NLA - although you can probably find used in decent shape. I still remember I was freaking out when I did my Dinan rear bar - I bought an extra set of trim panels just in case for the future... and I've been hauling them in garbage bags in attic from place to place for 20 years... and after all this they're still available to buy for my sedan!
Coming together nice ! better make room in the living room for the E36 …. super clean
You should look into some depo glass headlights, clear corner light, clear side markers, and my personal favorites are the factory euro tail lights that don’t have the amber strip
That's the exactly what I have installed on my 98 M3.
Hey Matt, I saw you have a borla exhaust on your m3, how do you like the sound? I have a borla muffler on my E36 and I really like it but am looking for a slightly higher pitched sound. Thoughts?
Im surprised you of all people let that caliper hang from it's brake line without a bungie :)
It's getting replaced, so I got lazy.
Are you considering doing rear subframe bushings?
Just came across your channel and I am obsessed. I had a question about your extended rotor bolts that you use to secure the spacers on to the face do the rotor. Did they came with the spacer kit? Or did you just purchase extended bolts from a hardware/auto parts store???
The spacer kits almost always come with extended bolts.
There is no way to avoid the sparks. Either you just take it, or wear a full face shield. Yes(11:28), please use impact sockets and not chromes.
Back to back to back Gosh Dang its... make me laugh so hard lol..
At 15:09 😂😂
I watched it 4 times
If you're obsessed, you'd buy new stone stone guards. ;)
Big boy Matty is scared of little sparkly boys
Ha, ha...
Yellow calipers would have looked so amazing against the Techno paint.
Do you have a link for this brake kit?
Where did you purchase the BBK? I like that rotor size
Precision Motorsport Industries
Matt do you still do consulting?
👍
This guy has OCD to the max. Dude probably takes 2 hour long showers to make sure he is clean enough
“freakin dirt trunk”
24:48 . . . ROUNDED is period correct NOT squared off. The stock steel OE e36 tower brace is round and was only included from factory in some e36 convertibles & the e36 M3 "Light Weight". They've been "NLA" forever, good luck finding one. This dude doesn't have a clue, smh'
Hey smart guy, this is Dinan period correct.
@9:25 - No offense... but every "real man" I've ever seen just takes the sparks right to the face... or wherever they hit.... and likes it! (and then goes blind in one eye due to shrapnel).
Jeeez. At least paint the brake heat shield if you Dont like Rust.
He lives in Florida. It’ll be fine
9:20 . . . has this guy ever heard of a Dremel tool, smh. Let the high rpm's do all the work. DO NOT apply excessive pressure. That's why he's steadily getting burned alive, jeez'
because of age, not abutse, EVERY single bushing under the car is shot. What's supposed to happen at this point is dropping the entire rear sub-frame then go to town replacing said rubber pieces, especially the rear sub frame bushings. Sooooo' throwing away time and money on sways and overpriced Ohlins stuff is a mute point, smh. But I've only owned five BMW's, three of which are e36's so what do I know...
you have a good point but its form over function ! plus everything gets tightened up with the suspension at full extension , rather than with its wheels on and the full weight of the car on the suspension then tightened up so all bushes ECT are sitting in there correct potions if you are going to do it do it right