Table Saw Blade Alignment | Perfect Cuts
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- Опубліковано 1 гру 2021
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I really wish you would make a video explaining the process of aligning the trunnion when it is out as checked at the 45 degree tilt. this video is arguably the best for aligning at the 90 degree position. Many presenters show testing this position but I have not seen anyone show how to align the test on a saw stop PCS/ICS.
This is the first video I have seen that shows the actual process of aligning the miter slot to the blade. Most just describe it with a caveat that “Your table saw may be different but just loosen the bolts and true up the slot to the blade.” They never bother to go through the process which can be quite tedious but necessary. Great video!
Glad you liked it Bob, Thanks for the comment
From an educator of 34 years , your instructional method is excellent ! You get an A+ unless I'm unable to align my portable SAWSTOP tomorrow. Anxious to see the fence video . I'm so grateful for your commitment to excellence ....
Thanks for the comment. Fence alignment video comes out tuesday
I couldn't help but notice Mr. Cosman is wearing shorts and a t-shirt in December... In Canada...
Thats normal????? I dont get it
Rob i love you, and you're the reason why i strive for accuracy and precision with my work, i would suggest a dial indicator over the combo square all day! My saw is calibrated to ±.001. Makes the task so much easier and enjoyable. Well maybe not enjoyable, but definitely a lot easier XD
Very helpful tuning for a kitchen remod thanks!
Thanks for an informative look at the table saw. It's always good stuff when you learn how to do something or at the very least learn how a thing works. Looking forward to the fence video.
The fence video comes out tuesday
I've always done it a different way. Let's say you have a 12" blade and 48" table, doing it Rob's way you are trying to measure the "parallel-ness" over a 1/4 of the table surface. I find it easier to "extend" the blade to reach the whole length of the table, and (theoretically) be 4 times more accurate.
I lay a (say) 48" straight edge (good spirit level) flat on the table with the edge against the blade. I rotate the blade to check it isn't warped, and/or touch off a single tooth with a feeler gauge to front and rear. Then I take my parallel measurements at the very front and rear of the table.
The extra length magnifies any error, so 2.5 thou across the blade results in a 10 thou difference at the table ends. I hope that explanation makes sense.
I think it does make sense, John. I normally use a micrometer sliding in the miter slot, which is more accurate than using a combination square, but your method adds to the accuracy and ease of the process.
Great topic to cover and to see the process is extremely helpful. Thank you. Take care.
Yes i wanted to show start to finish as most youtube vides just say “align blade with miter slot “ but don’t take you through the process
Thank you, Great Vid .
Thanks for doing this with your square. Like you said, not all of us have a dial indicator.
Very informal. Thanks Rob
absolutely
Thanks Rob.
You bet
Thanks for the detailed run through. Being able to tag along for the whole process is way more beneficial. Perhaps we’ll see one for the bandsaw, etc. in the near future 🤔
I will add it to the list of videos to do
Great video Rob,
I use a feeler gauge between the combination Square and the blade tip. It saves from having to adjust the square so often.
Great tip!
My Dad taught me to do this with a jig he created like a sled that slides in the miter slot. It had a magnet on top that held a dial indicator. He marked a tooth like you did but referenced the blade surface instead of the tooth. He checked front, checked back, adjusted until it was as perfect as he could get it. Because it slid in the slot there was less back and forth. I did not have all that when I got my first Sawstop so I did it like you are doing it here in the video. Well Done. Thank you for passing on this knowledge and keeping woodworking education going.
Yes a dial indicator method works well too. I just use my square and everyone has a square
Thanks Rob
You bet
Cool video. Kind of wish you did talk about the other ways to check square. Can't wait for the next video on the fence alignment. Thank you!
the fence alignment comes out Tuesday
Rob, if you just start out with the dial indicator, it will give you a reading on the front of the blade and the back of the blade. With the dial indicator sitting on the back of the blade, all you need to do is to adjust the trunion by 1/2 of that value. Of course you will need to recheck each time but it will be much faster than messing around with the tri-square, just keep that in the tool box, it's good for squaring, but kinda useless for this task. The dial indicator is King. Also for all dial indicators you can install a large button, about 3/8" in diameter which makes this sort of task even easier.
We all have a square. A dial indicator and bracket, not so much. He did cover this in his video.
Rob, you didn't tell folks that the cursor on the fence will not be accurate if you change blades to a thin kerf blade. If they stay with the same thickness blade all the time, it will work fine. Enjoyed the video. Keep up the good work.
Good point. Obvious but not so obvious...
thanks
I spent 3/4 of an hour on my old Unisaw with a dial indicator attached to an Incra mitre gauge to get mine lined up near perfect. Worked out great. No guessing with a dial indicator.
He did mention that.
I made a wooden cross to hold my dial indicator in the miter slot to align the blade and table on my (very) old Craftsman table saw. I WISH it had set screws to shove the trunions around, lol. Even without the set screws, I managed to get it within 0.001 of parallel.
Sawstop really came up with a great method to dial in the alignment with those set screws
I use the same on method with my Grizzly. The adjustment screws would be great.
@@befmx31PALS may be what you need.
I’ll tell you what there is no substitute for getting that top square to the blade. Miter slots that is. It will improve any saw’s performance and I wouldn’t want to even run one without doing this. And obviously if one had 50-100$ to spend, the dial caliper saw calibration jig is the way to go! Thanks Rob!
You bet. Great comment
The saw stop adjustment you described is so simple that other manufacturers should be embarrassed. The std method of loosening the corner bolts and nudging the whole table left or right was never satisfactory for me because the cabinet is a lightweight construction and flexes a little as you try to rotate the heavy cast-iron top. What worked for me was, - I loosened the corner bolts about 2 mm, then I took the weight of the table top off the cabinet by raising it a few milimetres using a car jack, then I rotated the cabinet (not the top) to make the adjustment. Well it worked for me. Good video , thanks.
Rob, excellent video as I always expect from you. One question: you mention putting a new blade in to make sure the current one is not warped or bent. Let's say the blade is bent, so what? The blade would be bent in the forward position and the back position. You rotate the blade to make sure you are checking the same tooth. If the SHAFT was bent, then Molly lock the door because then you have more than just the trunion being off to deal with. But the tooth? As long as the user rotates the blade as you did, it would not make a difference in setting the trunion. Again, thanks for the great video.
Very helpful. Thank you!! Any idea when the 5 1/2 Jack planes will be back in stock? Really want one.
We have had them for 3 months, a good supply.
This is amazing!!! I was trying to figure out how to do this just this week. Thank you so much!
You bet. Thanks for watching
Very useful, Rob. Thanks.
you bet
I use a dial indicator to bring it into +/- .001 in 10 inches then I align the fence to the same slot with the dial indicator. if you have a flat disc attached to the arbor you can put a long streight edge on the flat disc and bring it in even closer.
Great technique, but this video was to show folks how to do it with a square for those without a dial indicator. I mention in the video you can be more accurate with a dial indicator
Thanks for the video. My riving knife is too far from the blade reading the manual seems a bit confusing, would love to see a video in that. Thanks Mike
Good video idea thanks
Would you suggest the 5 cut method to determine the accuracy of the blade to miter slot?
I like the detail and quality of your videos and instruction. How come there is not single video on your channel where you are actually making a cabinet or piece of furniture?
My take on this platform is to teach the processes. Cant build a cabinet in the amount of time that would make a watchable video. I am not into "entertaining" so no fast forward, cut like crazy build videos. I did do a daily release two years ago during the first months of covid. That was the drawer part of the project. Some carcass work in there as well.
That's a good cliffhanger for the next video lol, had me like "...🤔..."
Fence alignment comes out tursday
One of these times I'm gonna be the first viewer.
Keep trying
Rob, I very much like your practical and common sense approach, but may I suggest using digital calipers? You can get a reasonably good one for $25 and I have to think that would be much easier to use than trying to determine if the blade tooth is rubbing the same front and back.
It is amazing how accurate you can become as you gain experience doing tasks that require fine motor skills. Having the tooth touch the end of the rule allowed me to get it extremely close. Put a .001 shim on a flat surface and you can easily feel the edge. Believe in yourself.
Great video as always Rob. On a side not just wondering if you have a specific preference on using a think kerf Ripping blade vs a standard full kerf blade? Given your saw has more than enough power, is it because you always clean up a table saw rip cut on the jointer or hand plane? Just picked up a cabinet saw this year (2020 King with the 2.5hp motor) and im looking for a ripping blade.
You need to watch my youtube video on saw blades where I tell you all my preferences and why
I would use a dial indicator, more accuraye. A good adjustable square will work just fine.
I purposely showed the square method because everyone does not have a dial indicator. In the video I mention you can be more accurate with a dial indicator
Well done Rob… To bad you don’t sell saw stop .. then I could take another trip to the money pit… lol
QUESTION - When I rip boards on my table saw I seem to always be getting a slight concave which results in a spring joint when I put 2 ripped boards together. I can't for the life of me figure out why this is happening. I have a Grizzly 1023 table saw. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have the same issues. I also have horrible blade marks on the work side of my ripped material. Scrap side is clean, which points me to a setup and alignment issue. However, the blade is aligned to the track and the fence to the same track with 0.005 away from the blade at the end of fence. Harvey sent me a new fence assembly and I still have the concave issues. So frustrating.
Hello Rob et al,
I watched both this video and the one on rip fence alignment. As always, you are very thorough. Thanks.
Can you explain why you set the blade parallel to the miter gauge slots but the ripping fence ever so slightly off (at the far end). It seems to me that the same reason you invoke for seting the rip fence the way you do is in contradiction to the way you set the blade in reference to the miter gauge slots! i.e.: since the blade is parallel to the miter gauge slots, the very problem you refer to as a reason to set the rip fence the way you do is present when crosscutting. Why bring up this problem (the blade expanding and marking the cut piece) when ripping but not when crosscutting? It does not matter how long the cut piece or the cut is, only how far the front of the blade is to the back of the blade. I had initially (for 38 years of woodworking) set my rip fence the way you suggest but now with my new (yee haw!) SawStop I did set it parallel to the blade to within one thousandth of an inch and have not had any problems.
Thanks for clarifying. (You are great!)
Your my boy blue
Hello
Just wondering how often this should be done? I assume the tell tale sign would be a not quite square cut. When you assess the cut and are not pleased...is this the first possible culprit?
Yes your instinct is correct. But its easy enough to check for blade alignment as I have shown so you can easily determine if its aligned or not.
Great video, be wise to advise people to unplug their saw before hand
Yes of course
Rob, at 7:56 in the video, the head gear hanging on the wall behind you.....where can I get one of those? Thanks.
They are called optivisor. You can get them everywhere. Just do an internet search
I have to check my table saw, but I guess this applies to any saw, including smaller non-cabinet models, correct?
Even super cheap job site table saws have some sort of adjustments, but good luck making it super accurate.
Yes. But if you have a contractor style saw you must adjust the trunion not the table top. Same concept and alignment technique but the way the blade moves is slightly different
Would this procedure be easier with two people?
yes it would
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Rob, well done video. However, I'm assuming the saw was unplugged. I don't remember you mentioning that. If you did, I missed it.
I shut the power off at the back of the saw.
It looks like the slight up/down rotation of the combination square is throwing your measurement off. This method with the combination square looks too prone to errors imo
Should do one on the sawstop riving knife alignment. As soon as i start to tighten the bolts it shifts to the left of the blade every time. Pain in the a$$
great idea....will put it on the list
Good useful video...checking the cut with a perfect square you are assuming the side of wood is perfectly straight...there's your weak link... possibly...
I jointed the side of the wood and checked it for straight before using it. I mention that briefly in the video
Manhandlinling framework on every adjustment will NEVER let you get it set. OMG. Also you need a feeler guage not a combo square.
You are measuring the distance between the saw blade and the miter slot wrong. The way you measuring assumes that the throat plate opening was machined perfectly parallel to the miter slot. Ideally you should place a piece of wood in the miter slot that's slightly proud of the table and use that as your reference surface for the square that is sitting flat on the table. This eliminates the error term of the throat plate slot. For the record what you did is what I do and it wasn't until I saw your video that I realized I was doing it wrong.
I’m not sure what you mean? The base of my combination square is pushed against the side of the miter gauge slot, and the beam is touching the blade. When did I use the throat plate opening for measuring?
it doesn't seem like the throat plate opening plays any role at all in what he's doing....it DOES assume the miter slot is *straight* but that's all
Throat plate plays no part at all in this process.
rob, not teaching for you to suck eggs but you forgot to mention to switch the power off at the mains, some people may overlook this safety aspect with dreadful injury
I find that to be unnecessary, which is why I don’t do it. My SawStop has 3 off switches, and then the breaker inside my panel. The reality is that that paddle switch has to be pulled outward, and it won’t happen while I’m working on it, so I don’t bother with all of the switches.
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Well done Rob… To bad you don’t sell saw stop .. then I could take another trip to the money pit… lol
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Well done Rob… To bad you don’t sell saw stop .. then I could take another trip to the money pit… lol
Well done Rob… To bad you don’t sell saw stop .. then I could take another trip to the money pit… lol.
SawStop is the only table saw to consider in my oppinon
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