That is a bi-metalic spring. The heater is on the outside of the spring. Hook up 12 volts, to the choke, and wait for it to turn as far as it will. If it doesnt turn get a new one, Be sure the housing is grounded to complete the circuit. Then turn it until the choke plate is vertical (off). You must be sure the housing is hot to continue. The screw you are concerned about is the FAST idle screw. It should not touch the cam when the choke is off. The large screw on the side is the idle air bypass screw. Unscrew it to increase idle speed in to slow.If you let the fast isle screw touch the fast idle cam it won't run or idle correctly. After you get ti to idle, the small screw under the idle screw (the big one) controls the idle mixture. It does nothing to the carb above 1400 rpm. After you screw the small screw out until it idles the highest rpm, reset the idle screw to 750 rpm or so. Then screw the idle screw in until it runs rough then back out until smooth. The fast idle screw should not be touching anything. About 6 of 8 thousands of clearance. Make sure the choke pull-off works. Also, the stock air cleaner has a 6 inch tube inside to contain the fuel fog above the carb. Make a ube to raise the air filter that amount or the car will hesitate on acceleration.
There are 3 marks close together on the choke housing, the middle one is the standard setting (spring and autumn) the one to the anti-clockwise side of tge middle mark is the winter setting and the other is the summer setting, all dependent on the temperature / climate obviously of the country the car is based in.
You are on the right path. I would turn it till the plate just touches not binding. The fast idle plate is weighted so it moves once the choke is heated up.
No I mean the stepped part. It is for fast idle. The first step is where the throttle adjustment screw should set when engine is cold. Choke closed. As the choke heats up it will allow the stepped part to move allowing it to idle slower. Then adjust to the correct rpm.
@@oscarblom4885 I understand what your saying. I hope to be able to work on it in the morning. Its raining out. Sure would be nice if the garage was done. That's for another day as well. Not greedy. I'm very thankful to have what I have. Most important friends like yourself in my time of need. Thank you again for the help.
What size Idle Jet are you using? I switched my buddies from a 55 to a 60 and it fixed the issue. I think it was the stupid fuel we have now. Just an extra thing to know.
I have no idea on the size. My thing is in a previous video it was running. Now this. I'm trying to get a definite answer before I go adusting everything. I'm hoping to get a family friend back over to help out. He worked on a NASCAR engine building team back in the 80s. He also rebuilt the carb and got it running in mid Nov. Thanks for your time. I still think it has somthing to do with the choke, or related. Stay tuned.
I had many trouble on setting the choke too, since I blocked it (the butterfly in fully opened position), the car just need a minute of attention by pumping on the gas pedal, then it idles perfectly, the car heats up fester, this gave me some major savings on the gas and time. Also, by doing this you make sure your butterfly is open all the way, using the choke gave me like 3/4 of the travel from closed to fully opened. Get rid of the stinky smell of the rich air-fuel mixture.
I'm going to try that the next time I get some time. Thanks for viewing and commenting. Hit the subscribe button. I always need help, and I like your derailed responses. Thank you again
The Butterfly Valve should be just about 5mm from fully closed when cold. Do Not close it to tension. Once the engine warms up it should open fully. (Least Restrictive) Your Air Cleaner Is NOT Stock, So You may not get the appropriate heat to your carburetor initially. Go back to a stock air cleaner for best results.
Very well.explained. your comment did fix the problem in the end. There will be several people who read the comments. Thank you for the view and commenting. Feel free to leave comments on all my videos and help others out.
when you first started it and it ran good.....was it summer...and hot out? and now its winter and ''colder''?? Yes? ....Not vaporizing the fuel mixture...or it sucked some crap up into the idle circuit.
@@Volkswagenplanet It worked on my car, it sat for a while and once choke opened, it stalled and died. Turning the Pilot jet or idle jet resolved the issue, just make sure once the motor is happy to secure it from moving on its own.
Mysteries abound on these carbs. I ve bought three to try get my 62 running and always had somevissue. Fuel pressure, clogged lines from washers in stock fuel pumps, kinks in line under gas tank, choke not ideally set... and on it goes. I want duals but I can't make a single work😂😂. Starts, idles, sometimes dies not always, if it does die doesnt want to start. I feel my timing is on, valves adjusted, running pointless ignition with matching svda vacum distributor/coil, new wires aaaarrrgggghhhhhh
I wouldn't think it's the choke. It's the idle circuit. When idling, it doesn't use the throttle except for when under choke which seemed to be operating. Need to turn the idle bypass screw.
I would agree with you 100 %, what I know now. This carb was a nightmare. At the time of this video the carb was taken off and rebuilt by a local " reputable" VW shop. This was the story I was told by them. Since this video I've had it rebuilt by another shop, and just gave up. I wanted to keep it all OEM. I actually got a hold of a factory rebuild kit for the carb, not aftermarket junk we have had for years as you know we are stuck with. After wasting hours, and hours of time, and hundreds of dollars, I just bought a reman carb. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment. Others will read your comment in the future. This seems to be one of the hottest topic today. Take care and stay safe.
@@Volkswagenplanet I just spent weeks taking care apart and putting it back together and doing tons of research. I think I've got a pretty good feel for it now. I've got a 74 engine in a 70 Karmann Ghia. It had the 009 distributor which is wrong for that engine so got the one with the vacuum advance to gain the full HP out of the 1600 dual port. After going back and forth from timing to idle setting, she is idling well. Feel like it had a miss so I'm going to check compression next to see if I've got a valve that is hanging up.
I would think it should be adjusted to just pull the choke plate closed. No more. Because then, after the engine has started, the choke coil is energized and starts to move. Slowly allowing the choke plate to move to the open, warm engine position. And it doesn’t pull it open. That stepped weight on the other side is what actually allows it to open, slowly. I have a question for you. I have a 1200cc engine in my 71. It has a six v. Choke coil on the pict 28 carb. Is the twelve v. Coil on the newer carb the same size? Can I order a 12v. Coil and expect it to fit? Or should a put a resister in? 12v. To 6 v. I recently got this project car, and have been slowly working on it. Kinda disappointing to find out you have a 1200 and not a 1600 engine.
First the carb choke spring was weak, not allowing it to.be adjusted correctly. As far as the coil, keep 6v with 6v. 12v.with 12v. There is a conversion that has all the pieces needed. I know you need a regulator. You.need a 12v windshield wiper motor. Im not sure about other items needed. I.also would not feel educated enough to.answer that question with piece of mind. Are you on Facebook? We have a VW GROUP PAGE that could answer that and any questions you may have. They members love to help others. Its called " Volkswagenplanet" same as UA-cam channel and all other social.media platforms.
Oh ok got it. Yeah, I'm having a weird issue with my bug. It was running fine a couple weeks ago and now running very rough. I did an express clean on my carb, but I still have the same results. If I give it gas it does nothing. If you have a chance, please watch and let me know what you think. Maybe it could be choke adjustment as well. Thanks. ua-cam.com/video/4p2lTTG81gk/v-deo.html @@Volkswagenplanet
I would have thought that with Florida temperature the choke would virtually not be in in use .......I would be inclined to check the needle and seat inside the carb and also the float level ......possible if the fuel pump is getting tired, at idle it may not be pumping sufficient fuel unless the engine is revving ......but I don't think the choke is the issue at all ....
Car was running perfect til I had starting issues. Never touched the carb at all. I got the starting issue solved. I had to replace the idle selonid then had this issie
I’ve got a super beetle 1972 or 1973 not sure but it turns on and drives but once you don’t give it gas it turns off, you take off the key and put it back in it turns back on any suggestion on what’s wrong with it? I think it’s a clogged on jet in the carburetor please let me know
One day I was in the freeway about 60 out the blue I noticed that even though I push the gas pedal it didn't get any more speed I found and exit and return home I thought it was the fuel pump because I saw the fuel filter only half full replace pump it started buy when I release the clouch it die the engine and car are about two years old Don't know what else to do and there are not many aircool mechanic any more
@@aureliomartinez2633 I had the same issue on my very firsr VW. It was the throw out bearing assembly broke. The good news any full service shop can diagnose that if you go that direction. The bad thing the engine has to come out. Can't say for sure that is your problem. We have a few VW shops in my area that took care of it back in the day. This is one of those thigs that will never happen again in your lifetime. The little ears on the throw out bearing broke which caused the clutch no to engage or disengage properly. Are you on Facebook? Come join our VW GROUP PAGE. its called " Volkswagenplanet". Alot of great members and fellow you tubers that enjoy helping each other with thier cars
@@Volkswagenplanet thanks for your information my car set for About 10 years then couple years ago a have some rebuild the engine thinking to make run and sell it I drove it for a year then the Pandemic came and everything stop I still drive it most of the year but in February it happens what I said early I don't what sell as is Here in Portland Oregon where a live they're maybe no more then 5 shops for and they are not cheap very expressive
Ahhh Gas....isn't it great! Ok....lets see.... Problems could be from dirty carb, wrongly adjusted carb to bad fuel, or not enough fuel. fouled spark plugs from the engine running too rich and/or too cold. So all that needs to be looked at. The choke ''step'' is supposed to be slightly sloppy....and that looks ok to me. Yes, The choke should be slightly closed...not all the way though... the engine does need to breath. The choke is used...now not a lot of people understand this, so , here goes..... Because when the engine is cold...remember that word cold. it needs more gas due to the fact that the gas is not vaporizing and it is sticking in liquid form to all the insides of the intake. YOUR ENGINE WILL ALWAYS BE COLD, because the heat riser tube....thats that tube thing under the carb attached intake that connects to the exhaust. Exhaust gas circulates through it and heats the intake helping to vaporize the fuel/air mixture. It has to be unblocked...you will consider yourself lucky if you can blow air from one side to the other...if you cant , it will need to be unblocked....good luck. unblocking it, I had to cut mine apart. Easier to buy one clean. a plugged heat riser will not allow the engine to burn the fuel efficiently until the engine becomes soaked in heat from running. And will result in sooty or fouled spark plugs. Remember, all adjustments on that carb are to be made when ALL SYSTEMS are present and are in working order. or Not....depending on how you want your car to operate
Like I said before, I'm glad your around. I agree with everything you stated. That is the reason I stepped back and took a breath. I don't want to be adjusting this and that just to guess. O will say this, I have learned alor this year. I try to go by the Bently book. This way its a great base line to start. I had the carb rebuilt the day before it started. This was what got it going. The car builder was a engine builder for a NASCAR team in the 80s. He is probally coming over to correct the issue. He is leaning towards the electric choke adjustment to start. Thank you again. I can't thank you enough for your time to comment to help me out.
@@Volkswagenplanet 😀😀 your in the right direction, and stepping back is good. I do the same al most daily...it gives me time to think and put things together in my head.
I think my VW days are just about over. Its time to cash out at the high, just like the model A owners did back in the day. These cars have a few more years before there will be no need or want fir them. The next generation doesn't want these cars. They don't apperciate them like we do. You are right, but one done and enjoy it. Thanks for commenting.
LOL, The problem was siolved with adjustment. Then had the carb rebuilt. I erased part 2 before i could post it. It wasnt getting power to the fuel bypass on the drivers side. Then adjusted the choke properly. Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay safe.
Thank you for commenting. Read the comments. I hope this will help solve your problem you may be having. I have a follow up video, that I realize about a month later I never posted.
That is a bi-metalic spring. The heater is on the outside of the spring. Hook up 12 volts, to the choke, and wait for it to turn as far as it will. If it doesnt turn get a new one, Be sure the housing is grounded to complete the circuit. Then turn it until the choke plate is vertical (off). You must be sure the housing is hot to continue. The screw you are concerned about is the FAST idle screw. It should not touch the cam when the choke is off. The large screw on the side is the idle air bypass screw. Unscrew it to increase idle speed in to slow.If you let the fast isle screw touch the fast idle cam it won't run or idle correctly. After you get ti to idle, the small screw under the idle screw (the big one) controls the idle mixture. It does nothing to the carb above 1400 rpm. After you screw the small screw out until it idles the highest rpm, reset the idle screw to 750 rpm or so. Then screw the idle screw in until it runs rough then back out until smooth. The fast idle screw should not be touching anything. About 6 of 8 thousands of clearance. Make sure the choke pull-off works. Also, the stock air cleaner has a 6 inch tube inside to contain the fuel fog above the carb. Make a ube to raise the air filter that amount or the car will hesitate on acceleration.
Sounds like you have done this a few times. Great info. Thanks for sharing. I have your comment pinned so others can use your info.
There are 3 marks close together on the choke housing, the middle one is the standard setting (spring and autumn) the one to the anti-clockwise side of tge middle mark is the winter setting and the other is the summer setting, all dependent on the temperature / climate obviously of the country the car is based in.
You are on the right path. I would turn it till the plate just touches not binding. The fast idle plate is weighted so it moves once the choke is heated up.
Plate? Do you mean the butterfly ?
No I mean the stepped part. It is for fast idle. The first step is where the throttle adjustment screw should set when engine is cold. Choke closed. As the choke heats up it will allow the stepped part to move allowing it to idle slower. Then adjust to the correct rpm.
@@oscarblom4885 I understand what your saying. I hope to be able to work on it in the morning. Its raining out. Sure would be nice if the garage was done. That's for another day as well. Not greedy. I'm very thankful to have what I have. Most important friends like yourself in my time of need. Thank you again for the help.
I am happy to help if I can 😁👍👍👍
Thinking this my issue with no slow idle on my 1970 Beetle. Looking forward to seeing part 2
Im thinking it's the choke needs to be adjusted. Comment below. Thank you for all the support.
What size Idle Jet are you using? I switched my buddies from a 55 to a 60 and it fixed the issue. I think it was the stupid fuel we have now. Just an extra thing to know.
I have no idea on the size. My thing is in a previous video it was running. Now this. I'm trying to get a definite answer before I go adusting everything. I'm hoping to get a family friend back over to help out. He worked on a NASCAR engine building team back in the 80s. He also rebuilt the carb and got it running in mid Nov. Thanks for your time. I still think it has somthing to do with the choke, or related. Stay tuned.
I had many trouble on setting the choke too, since I blocked it (the butterfly in fully opened position), the car just need a minute of attention by pumping on the gas pedal, then it idles perfectly, the car heats up fester, this gave me some major savings on the gas and time. Also, by doing this you make sure your butterfly is open all the way, using the choke gave me like 3/4 of the travel from closed to fully opened. Get rid of the stinky smell of the rich air-fuel mixture.
I'm going to try that the next time I get some time. Thanks for viewing and commenting. Hit the subscribe button. I always need help, and I like your derailed responses. Thank you again
The Butterfly Valve should be just about 5mm from fully closed when cold. Do Not close it to tension. Once the engine warms up it should open fully. (Least Restrictive) Your Air Cleaner Is NOT Stock, So You may not get the appropriate heat to your carburetor initially. Go back to a stock air cleaner for best results.
Very well.explained. your comment did fix the problem in the end. There will be several people who read the comments. Thank you for the view and commenting. Feel free to leave comments on all my videos and help others out.
when you first started it and it ran good.....was it summer...and hot out? and now its winter and ''colder''?? Yes? ....Not vaporizing the fuel mixture...or it sucked some crap up into the idle circuit.
Had it running smoother in early Nov. this year
Turn the hex head jet just under the choke thermostat bout a 1/4 turn out.sometimes those get over tightened and won't let it idle
This car was running smooth then went to this situation. Will your adjustment still work?
@@Volkswagenplanet It worked on my car, it sat for a while and once choke opened, it stalled and died. Turning the Pilot jet or idle jet resolved the issue, just make sure once the motor is happy to secure it from moving on its own.
That's crazy talk ...
Mysteries abound on these carbs. I ve bought three to try get my 62 running and always had somevissue. Fuel pressure, clogged lines from washers in stock fuel pumps, kinks in line under gas tank, choke not ideally set... and on it goes. I want duals but I can't make a single work😂😂. Starts, idles, sometimes dies not always, if it does die doesnt want to start. I feel my timing is on, valves adjusted, running pointless ignition with matching svda vacum distributor/coil, new wires aaaarrrgggghhhhhh
I agree. Once you get one to work properly they are great. Need to add rebiuld kits are junk or missing the piece you need.
...and part 2...when?
I wouldn't think it's the choke. It's the idle circuit. When idling, it doesn't use the throttle except for when under choke which seemed to be operating. Need to turn the idle bypass screw.
I would agree with you 100 %, what I know now. This carb was a nightmare. At the time of this video the carb was taken off and rebuilt by a local " reputable" VW shop. This was the story I was told by them. Since this video I've had it rebuilt by another shop, and just gave up. I wanted to keep it all OEM. I actually got a hold of a factory rebuild kit for the carb, not aftermarket junk we have had for years as you know we are stuck with. After wasting hours, and hours of time, and hundreds of dollars, I just bought a reman carb. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment. Others will read your comment in the future. This seems to be one of the hottest topic today. Take care and stay safe.
@@Volkswagenplanet I just spent weeks taking care apart and putting it back together and doing tons of research. I think I've got a pretty good feel for it now. I've got a 74 engine in a 70 Karmann Ghia. It had the 009 distributor which is wrong for that engine so got the one with the vacuum advance to gain the full HP out of the 1600 dual port. After going back and forth from timing to idle setting, she is idling well. Feel like it had a miss so I'm going to check compression next to see if I've got a valve that is hanging up.
@@guymanicone7921 you have and better luck than I have had. Congrats
I would think it should be adjusted to just pull the choke plate closed. No more. Because then, after the engine has started, the choke coil is energized and starts to move. Slowly allowing the choke plate to move to the open, warm engine position. And it doesn’t pull it open. That stepped weight on the other side is what actually allows it to open, slowly. I have a question for you. I have a 1200cc engine in my 71. It has a six v. Choke coil on the pict 28 carb. Is the twelve v. Coil on the newer carb the same size? Can I order a 12v. Coil and expect it to fit? Or should a put a resister in? 12v. To 6 v. I recently got this project car, and have been slowly working on it. Kinda disappointing to find out you have a 1200 and not a 1600 engine.
First the carb choke spring was weak, not allowing it to.be adjusted correctly. As far as the coil, keep 6v with 6v. 12v.with 12v. There is a conversion that has all the pieces needed. I know you need a regulator. You.need a 12v windshield wiper motor. Im not sure about other items needed. I.also would not feel educated enough to.answer that question with piece of mind. Are you on Facebook? We have a VW GROUP PAGE that could answer that and any questions you may have. They members love to help others. Its called " Volkswagenplanet" same as UA-cam channel and all other social.media platforms.
Hi. Was there a part 2 to this? Thanks
There was a part 2. Took it down because the the choke adjustment fixed the idle issue. Are you still having problems with yours?
Oh ok got it. Yeah, I'm having a weird issue with my bug. It was running fine a couple weeks ago and now running very rough. I did an express clean on my carb, but I still have the same results. If I give it gas it does nothing. If you have a chance, please watch and let me know what you think. Maybe it could be choke adjustment as well. Thanks. ua-cam.com/video/4p2lTTG81gk/v-deo.html @@Volkswagenplanet
I would have thought that with Florida temperature the choke would virtually not be in in use .......I would be inclined to check the needle and seat inside the carb and also the float level ......possible if the fuel pump is getting tired, at idle it may not be pumping sufficient fuel unless the engine is revving ......but I don't think the choke is the issue at all ....
Car was running perfect til I had starting issues. Never touched the carb at all. I got the starting issue solved. I had to replace the idle selonid then had this issie
Carb was just rebuilt a month before this. Ran perfect( see prior videos).
I’ve got a super beetle 1972 or 1973 not sure but it turns on and drives but once you don’t give it gas it turns off, you take off the key and put it back in it turns back on any suggestion on what’s wrong with it? I think it’s a clogged on jet in the carburetor please let me know
If the windshield is flat its a 72. 73 has a rounded windshield. Mine is a 72.
As far as the carb issue. As far as the carb. I had the same issue. I changed the jet. Still didn't fix the issue. Then I had it rebuilt.
One day I was in the freeway about 60 out the blue I noticed that even though I push the gas pedal it didn't get any more speed I found and exit and return home I thought it was the fuel pump because I saw the fuel filter only half full replace pump it started buy when I release the clouch it die the engine and car are about two years old Don't know what else to do and there are not many aircool mechanic any more
@@aureliomartinez2633 I had the same issue on my very firsr VW. It was the throw out bearing assembly broke. The good news any full service shop can diagnose that if you go that direction. The bad thing the engine has to come out. Can't say for sure that is your problem. We have a few VW shops in my area that took care of it back in the day. This is one of those thigs that will never happen again in your lifetime. The little ears on the throw out bearing broke which caused the clutch no to engage or disengage properly. Are you on Facebook? Come join our VW GROUP PAGE. its called " Volkswagenplanet". Alot of great members and fellow you tubers that enjoy helping each other with thier cars
@@Volkswagenplanet thanks for your information my car set for About 10 years then couple years ago a have some rebuild the engine thinking to make run and sell it I drove it for a year then the Pandemic came and everything stop I still drive it most of the year but in February it happens what I said early I don't what sell as is Here in Portland Oregon where a live they're maybe no more then 5 shops for and they are not cheap very expressive
Ahhh Gas....isn't it great! Ok....lets see....
Problems could be from dirty carb, wrongly adjusted carb to bad fuel, or not enough fuel. fouled spark plugs from the engine running too rich and/or too cold. So all that needs to be looked at.
The choke ''step'' is supposed to be slightly sloppy....and that looks ok to me.
Yes, The choke should be slightly closed...not all the way though... the engine does need to breath.
The choke is used...now not a lot of people understand this, so , here goes.....
Because when the engine is cold...remember that word cold. it needs more gas due to the fact that the gas is not vaporizing and it is sticking in liquid form to all the insides of the intake. YOUR ENGINE WILL ALWAYS BE COLD, because the heat riser tube....thats that tube thing under the carb attached intake that connects to the exhaust. Exhaust gas circulates through it and heats the intake helping to vaporize the fuel/air mixture. It has to be unblocked...you will consider yourself lucky if you can blow air from one side to the other...if you cant , it will need to be unblocked....good luck. unblocking it, I had to cut mine apart. Easier to buy one clean.
a plugged heat riser will not allow the engine to burn the fuel efficiently until the engine becomes soaked in heat from running. And will result in sooty or fouled spark plugs.
Remember, all adjustments on that carb are to be made when ALL SYSTEMS are present and are in working order.
or
Not....depending on how you want your car to operate
Like I said before, I'm glad your around. I agree with everything you stated. That is the reason I stepped back and took a breath. I don't want to be adjusting this and that just to guess. O will say this, I have learned alor this year. I try to go by the Bently book. This way its a great base line to start. I had the carb rebuilt the day before it started. This was what got it going. The car builder was a engine builder for a NASCAR team in the 80s. He is probally coming over to correct the issue. He is leaning towards the electric choke adjustment to start. Thank you again. I can't thank you enough for your time to comment to help me out.
@@Volkswagenplanet 😀😀 your in the right direction, and stepping back is good. I do the same al most daily...it gives me time to think and put things together in my head.
cant hear the cranking sound it is a pity .i would like to hear it.
Just get a restored one on the Samba. Done
I think my VW days are just about over. Its time to cash out at the high, just like the model A owners did back in the day. These cars have a few more years before there will be no need or want fir them. The next generation doesn't want these cars. They don't apperciate them like we do. You are right, but one done and enjoy it. Thanks for commenting.
I have a headache after watching this
Where the hell is part two
LOL, The problem was siolved with adjustment. Then had the carb rebuilt. I erased part 2 before i could post it. It wasnt getting power to the fuel bypass on the drivers side. Then adjusted the choke properly. Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay safe.
It's not supposed to touch.
You are correct. I found that out after hours of frustration
Very confusing.
Thank you for commenting. Read the comments. I hope this will help solve your problem you may be having. I have a follow up video, that I realize about a month later I never posted.