@@whatfreedom7 they do! Unfortunately I will never try them because nothing will get me to part with my Leatherman Wave +. It’s the best multitool there is. Seriously.
I love this knife! I got a custom with copper rivets. Looks amazing. Reprofiled to a 15° edge. The sheath is beautiful, especially on a dangle clip. Splits wood. Carves great. Easy to sharpen. The ergos are awesome. Perfect purchase in hand. Simply love it. Completely baffled why I don't see more praise for it.
CONGRATULATIONS, Gerber! I am happy to see this great American-made knife. I love EVERYTHING about the sheath. S 30V is a great steel choice. The full-tang blade with its size, shape and edge geometry is is perfect. (If someone wants a steeper secondary bevel, they can put it on during their first sharpening.)
They are selling to the crowd that recognizes the brand and want to step up their knife game. S30v is good steel depending on what you plan on using it for. Not everyone is taking it to the woods and beating on it, not everyone sharpens their blade very weekend. The review shows it to be a dependable knife. USA made, s30v steel, great grip. Good looking leather sheath. Lacks grip color options. Great knife for the money.
As soon as I saw that small choil, I said "nope, not for me". I want the sharp edge to run right up against the guard or handle. If I need to whittle something down, I can exert the most force right at the handle. The farther away from the handle, the smaller amount of force you can bring against whatever you're dealing with. And with all of the options out there, I can find better than this for me. Picky, I know. But we've all got our druthers.
I love this knife, but I would never choke up on the choice without gloves. But the ergos on the full purchase grab are awesome. I, honestly, have never thought to grip up in day to day use.
I love my Gerber multi tool, have had it for many years, still works just as good as the day i bought it. Yes, it's heavy, but it's one that was made in the U.S.
I've got the smaller, budget-minded Gerber Principle. It's a handy knife and well made. This one looks to have some promise, especially with a high quality steel like the S30V.
I've ignored Gerber for years. They became a gas station knife, in my opinion. However, what you and a couple of other reviewers are saying, it's time to for me to take a closer look at them. Like you though, I really dislike that edge angle.
I love my Principle, and I really enjoy my Strongarm. Just Strongarm is to big for taking to work and around everywhere in public. Maybe I would try a Terracraft. The Principle is awesome tho.
This is my favorite knives channel, I enjoy so much watching you. I hope your next review will be the either the field buddy 5.5 or the rokka wilderness warrior, it will help me choose my next knife.
Great review as usual. The best knife content on UA-cam. I agree that Gerber is doing a much better job than they had been doing and if they continue they will meet with lots of success. There are a lot of guys like myself who are older (I’m 54) who have a soft spot for Gerber and can remember when they were a premier brand. Hopefully they will work on the edge geometry on the Teracraft. Lots of knives come with an edge more suited to an axe and aren’t nearly the cutters they could be. I would really like to see Gerber take a look at expanding the Strongarm line with, premium steel sprint runs (I have the BDZ-1 model), different colors, accessories for the sheath like fire steels, pouches, sharpeners, etc. I’d also like them to consider offering a Kabar USMC sized Strong arm. I think the design would work with a 6-7” blade. Oh and I wish they would resurrect the old sword in the stone logo over the Generic shield logo. Sorry for the long winded comment. I love discussing Gerber.
Not only were the knives great, they had phenomenal innovative sheath designs back in the day too. The Strongarm sheath reminds me of those. It's good to see them coming back to some of their old glory again.
@@Andrew-en4zx I agree. In my opinion a sheath makes up around 50% of the functionality of a knife. I have some knives a rarely carry just because the sheath is poor. It’s an area that is easy for knife companies to cheap out on.
You could save a lot of money and just get the smaller Gerber Principle which this knife is based on... especially when it's on sale for $45. My favorite budget outdoor knife is the Mora Kansbol.
Do you feel that edge geometry is more about them worrying about edge rolling or chipping. Would be eager to see a follow up after you change to a 15 degree edge. Thanks an happy new year
@@BOOSTEDLASER all depends on your look at it. This is to small to chop. So a little bit finer edge for actual wood work. Might be good. All depends on gerbers heat treat. Hopefully aaron does change it an does a replay.
@@BOOSTEDLASER ok. But no knife designed for bushcraft should have an edge like an ax either. This is clearly there attempt to make a bushcraft knife. And like i said everybody has there own preference. I prefer convex grinds myself.
Great video review as always!! Feedback on the knife itself: it doesn’t connect with me because I think they are better options out there (for my use) at that price point. I would rather save $100 and have a scandi grind (Condor Terrasaus) or spend that $150-160 and get a great Esee 4 (as one example) tricked out. Leather isn’t my sheath of choice either at that price point lol. With that said, great video and still excited about what Gerber is doing.
Got a customized Sedulo from my wife and daughter for Christmas and love it.... apparently though when you look on FB there are a lot of unhappy people with them ... specifically their customer service... hope they get squared away... Gerber was the first knife I ever bought myself at my first job. I still have one of my originals... still love it. So happy to see them swinging hard again!
Hi Mr G.T. almost knife god.haha.Good review,I have B.M.#162 Bushcraft, love that knife.It is more money but worth the price. Had for yrs.still not sure weather I like leather sheath better with dangler in cold months. Think u can get Kydex from B.M.So Gerber out for me.Glad they are lmproving.U S A line.
It's not the Huckberry version (be it still essentially the same knife). 3v isn't stainless which is why I prefer magnacut ak 5.5. I want a blade that can process food, get wet, and not need to be oiled / coated. Love your LT5, you and TJ should do an AEBL version
@EastTactics it seems to have an edge over 30 degrees... which is the max angle I can get to on my worksharp precision adjust knife sharpener. Should I reprofile it to say 30 degrees, or 25 degrees. what angle would you put on this? I think you mention you were going to put a 17degree angle on this... wouldnt that make it way to suseptible to chips and dings for a rigourous camping usage?
Great to see from Gerber, I love that they are looking outside of China, but the $200+ price tag is way too much to ask. There are way too many other, and probably better, knives on the market for much less. Cut that price in half for a less than 4" knife, and it would be a good deal all day long. Thanks for the video, Aaron!
Gerber has slightly redesigned the Benchmade Bushcrafter right down to copying the color of the scales including the red liner. Huge marketing mistake to only make these available through their website. Most of us want to be able to handle a knife and get the feel of it before dropping a hundred plus dollars. That said, the knife has potential. The Benchmade Bushcrafter is the only knife I own that didn't require reprofiling the edge to get the level of performance I want. Since I already own the Bushcrafter I don't see any reason to add this one to my collection. A year later, my son bought a Terracraft and loves it. I had to reprofile the edge for him to make it cut really well, but it is a super nice knife. Given the Benchmade Bushcrafter is now listed for $260 the Gerber Terracraft at a hundred dollars less is a great option.
Ordered mine today after seeing this video. Ive had my eye on the principle for a while now, but really wanted better steel and I hate poly sheaths. Also definitely prefer the sabre over scandi for edc/general tasks. I’ll probably still scoop up the principle as a beater but I am wicked happy that they went in this direction with this knife.
There is no knife, that will cut, hold and generally perform as it should, with it's factory edge! Even the full convex edges of Bark River knives, for example! You have to remove the fatigued steel and also remove any microbevel, or either blend it with the main bevel. The reason, many people complain, that their knives take microchips, or don't hold an edge well, or even they don't cut-slice as they thought they would, is because, they don't understand, how important is to reprofile and remove the fatigued steel, of a new edge on ANY new knife.
@@tacticalcenter8658 I have to add, that when it comes to knife sharpening...Sandpapers and a decent but not expensive set of (200-400 grit, 1000 , 3000) set of stones, is the way to go. A fine leatherstrop and a ceramic rod, can also add, to the edge maintenance and fine tuning. Stay away from pull-through sharpeners. Very expensive sharpening systems, do not perform as their price may tell. Nothing beats stones and experience is a must, so we all have to practice, on cheaper knives, as much as we can, before we buy expensive user knives.
@@greekveteran2715 basswood strop is a bit better imho. I find that beginners round there edges on leather. Kangaroo leather is a good option though, as it's so thin, that it's not easy for beginners to round the edge. Also users have to learn to use the right type of abrasives for the steel they are sharpening. Above all, they need to learn proper apex formation and burr removal which are usually not learned from most tutorials. Science of sharp blog has some good info on this.
@@tacticalcenter8658 Exactly!! Not only begginers, but unfortunately many people, don't use strops as they should. We have to strop in a smaller angle, than the angle we sharpened, either way we dull the edge! Also what you mentioned is very important. Keeping the proper angle while not overstroping, especially on thick leather, is the only way to avoid the round edge (too much convexing). Way more convexed edge, has negative effects rather than positive.
@@The_Crow_Flies what kind of heavy use are you talking about? Splitting firewood or opening paint cans? Digging a hole or like chopping down a tree? if you break a knife in half it's because you're doing something wrong.
Same exact stupid sheath too. A dedicated dangler sheath without the dangler part. Rides too high on the belt with rivets. You wouldn’t need them any way. What a stupid design. Love my bushcrafter by the way but the sheath took a lot of work. Hardware on the bushcrafter was garbage too. Totally unacceptable for a $200 knife.
My kids got me a Gerber strong-arm for Christmas. I love it, perfect fit in the hand, super sharp, and very very rugged. I've been chopping, batoning and prying with it and it's still like new and doing a great job. I think Gerber is back for sure
Hi Aaron, Terrific review, as usual. MY PROBLEM with designs like the Gerber Terracraft and the Benchmade Bushcrafter is the strange, self-destructive decision to place enormous, blade-weakening holes in the handle. With both the Terracraft and the Bushcrafter, the design crew must have asked themselves, "How can we weaken the blade the most? How about if we put a big hole right in the middle, where the cutting edge ends and the handle begins? YES! That will completely weaken the knife! Let's do it!" I understand weight reduction. But those big holes reduce weight by no more than 6 grams. I understand balance. Honestly, I do understand. But for myself, and I would guess for many of us out there, balance is not a useful quality. I own a custom CPM 3V "Pearson's Puukko" (so named because of the enormous finger guard I designed; the name is my attempt at humor) with 7.5 cm (3.5 in) blade and 125 cm (5 in.) handle made for me by Jolly Roger Knives. It is my favorite bushcraft blade, and rests on my belt right next to my favorite knife, the LT Wright Outback. Balance is at middle finger, not at 1st finger as with most high-end utility and bushcraft knives, or even forward of the finger guard, as is the case with longer blades. The LT Wright Genesis, the Mora Garberg, the PKS Kephart, and the Survival Lilly APO-1 all balance just south of the finger guard at about the index finger when holding the knife in hammer grip. Honestly, I find no difference in performance and hand fatigue between the Pearson's Puukko (balance at middle finger), the Casstrom #10 Swedish Forest Knife (balance at first finger), and the Cold Steel SRK (balance at the ricasso), with the Pearson's and the Casstrom #10 having almost the same weight and the SRK coming in just a bit heavier. So I find no justification to obtain "balance" by drilling big holes into the steel. I know the balance factor may be important for some people, but I doubt it is *critical* for most people, and if anyone has seen the many UA-cam vidoes on Benchmade Bushcrafter, broken right at the forward hole after batoning, I believe most would opt for a stronger handle over whatever small (psychological or real) advantage obtains from moving the balance point forward a couple of millimeters. Nice review, nice discussion of a *light use* camp knife, though I would say the knife should not be considered suitable for firecraft, heavy bushcrafting, or survival, since the darn thing will probably break. PM 20210102.
I think the holes in these Gerbers are mostly a styling cue. But most survival knives have holes in their handles, and they don't explode. If there is going to be a cutout in the handle, a round hole is the optimal shape from the point of stress risers. And you shouldn't do heavy batoning with a stainless blade anyway, unless it's super thick. If you want a tough blade, get one made out of 5160 at a low Rockwell.
@@sheltermonkey6065 Yep, I would not baton with this knife. I'm sure it's just fine for light-duty notching and whittling and cooking and basic camp chores. But I wouldn't carry it when I can get a more robust knife for the same amount of money. The handle is unique, and may fit some hands better than mine, and for that reason alone, the knife may be a good choice for certain people.
@@AncientNovelist Well there are always tradeoffs. I have no reason to baton wood and prefer stainless blades with about 1/8" blade stock (much thinner than this Gerber). 5160 at a low Rockwell is going to be leaps and bounds tougher than S30V, S35VN, 1095, and even 3V.
@@sheltermonkey6065 Yep. Agreed. Except for the utility of batoning. I do it all the time, but with my Gerber Strongarm, not with my LT Wright Outback or LT Wright GNS or any of my other expensive blades. The Strongarm doesn't chip, and rolling the edge rarely happens--and when it does, you just take it to the stones and the strop and it's as good as new. The Strongarm doesn't have big holes in it, and it doesn't break.
I couldn't agree with you more brother, if more production knife companies would follow spyderco in a way and do majority of their blade edges at 17deg then that would be amazing and with today's steel compositions the knives should be able to hold up easily with a laid back edge like that and then if owners want to lay it back further to say 15deg then that is up to them and won't be neat as difficult...
Probably after so much criticism over the years they have decided to do something about the once iconic USA brand. I grew up with them when they were good, eg Shorty, Magnum etc (BTW to know these models u have to be at least 50 YO plus LOL) . Made in the USA, then the stupid (it always is, by some crazies who think they know in the company but just want to big wig themselves) senior staff decide to market their products with a TV personality, oh man, what a mistake. Let's hope this is some sort of come back for them.
Yep. I recall when I purchased a Gerber product, I knew I was getting quality. I still have the Tac II I purchased in the Army. I mainly got it because it came with ALICE attachments for the sheath to my web gear. It was made in the USA by Gerber back then. Mine is stamped with "First production run". Then they started making them in China. Then the Bear Grylls and China stuff, and I figured they'd gone the way of Schrade and Uncle Henry. Now that they are trying to get back to their Made in the USA roots, China is counterfeiting their USA made knives, right down to the exact markings, probably on Gerber equipment, too.
@@latigomorgan Yep, u hit the nail right on the head there. Schrade and Uncle Henry, my dad had some classics there, now just a lot of poor quality. The crazy thing is Fiskars who were actually making those stupid TV knives can and do make good products but this are not made in China, only the cheaper lines. I guess what happened was this "urge" for many to live the dream (or rather just dream LOL) about being some sort of adventurer and if you had some knife some TV guy said was good, then obviously you'd be good to go! yeah right! NOT!
It is. I have both. The principle I bought from a store and was sharp/perfect. I ordered a custom made fastball and principle and they came dull, stripped threading in the scales, and the principle had to be completely reprofile because it was heavily favoring one side and they left a huge "wire". More like a speed bump.
Maybe a year back when the Gerber Fastball was first released I noticed that right behind the edge was thick as well. Some youtubers were saying .03X in. (ridiculous for a 3" folding pocket knife) where a lot of knives are lower .02X's . I put a steeper edge on it and found out that it seemed to chip fairly easily. It is my opinion that S30V tends to chip in general and not so much a Gerber issue. This may be why they keep the thickness a bit higher for durability.
Must say I prefer a six inch blade. You surprised me with the cutting edge of 15 to 17 degrees. Kitchen knife yup but for an outdoor knife? Like to hear your thoughts on that edge for outdoors? Great review as usual 👍! Thanks for bringing this knife review to us and happy new year!
Well, I just got my second Gerber knife that does connect with me! Problem is it's my second Gerber StrongArm; I now have the BDZ-1 version they offered a few years back and the 420HC that was $40 on BladeHQ. Will I be buying a Terracraft? Well, maybe. If they're still making it a few months from now with decent QC, I will be. My buddy who does lawn/garden/fence/roofing work just got one as a work knife, I played around with it a bit, and honestly, I'd be lying if I said I didn't like it. That being said, with the ESEE-4 dropping in S35VN with textured G-10 scales AND it being a known quantity (I have the ESEE-3 in S35VN and love it as a general work knife), not only am I getting a less chippy steel if I'm getting that, but I'm getting it for a better price point and of course with great edge geometry. I realize they're not direct competitors, but I see myself using the Terracraft as more of a general purpose blade than a bushcrafting blade (I have my 1095 CroVan ESEEs for that) if/when I do indeed buy one.
I like that Gerber is making these in the USA with more premium materials, I'd like to see more of that. But at this price point they do not stand out from their competitors, there are better options for the money.
Looking for a Full Tang knife blade like this in good Steele at a good price . For a Steak Knife and general Camping do anything knife? Got some recommendations?
I like it... But for ur price comparison o thought you may want to take into account the benchmade pukko, similar size, better steel and a more universally liked handle shape. All for $100
I prefer carbon steel out in the woods, I find it more forgiving. I’ll stick to my Terävä Jääkäripuukko 140 in Carbon Steel. Better price and better blade in my opinion.
real question here... I always wonder why people need a fire steel attached to the sheath, when imhop you need to have a KNIFE SHARPENER attached. what good is a fire steel if your knife goes dull? would love to see a discussion on this.
That cutting edge angle does seem a bit too fat to be slicy, but I think it could be improved by convexing it so it retains some lateral strength when you run it into bone or crosscut with it.
I must have missed your fire steel loop on the custom sheath you had made. I'm guessing a majority of people buying this knife doesn't use a fire steel often enough to want a bulkier knife sheath. Out in the woods you will probably carry the knife all day, using it now and then. While you make a fire what, 2-3 times a day? And you can use your fire steel, but i guess a majority uses a lighter anyway.
Think I'll go with the principle and look elsewear for a bigger camp knife. I've been looking at the Benchmade Leuku and ESEE 6 for a bigger fixed blade.
It’s the thickness behind the edge that’s most important. Like you, I prefer a lesser angle, maybe 18 degree edge, but if it is too thick behind the edge it is a poor slicer. So, the steepness of the high Sabre grind will define the “sliceyness” of the blade. I noticed the belt loop is out box stitched. Too many rivets. Polymer liners are usually found on cheap sheaths also. (My opinion.). Thanks and Happy New Year Aaron and GT family.
@@BOOSTEDLASER little industry insight, Gerber gets their steel from the same supplier as competitors benchmade and similar. They also get it heat treated by a company not directly connected to them. The company that heat treats Gerbers blades also does benchmades and leathermans, so the heat treat should be the same on their US products as competitors. Been to Portland, seen it myself. The steel is heat treated as good as any other company
Good review. Being budget minded I’ve wondered why most sub $100 stainless knives come with a hollow (concave) grind. It would seem to be less work to have a saber or Scandinavian grind but I’m no knife maker.
Good morning Aaron.
Happy new year!
I love seeing more USA made high quality steel knives from the bigger manufacturers.
-Nick 😃👍
Gerber also has a lot of USA multitools.
Enjoy it while you can. Biden will make sure American manufacturing dies off so we can rely on China for everything again.
@@onionhead5780 yeah he’ll probably get a day check for doing it.
@@whatfreedom7 they do! Unfortunately I will never try them because nothing will get me to part with my Leatherman Wave +. It’s the best multitool there is. Seriously.
I love this knife! I got a custom with copper rivets. Looks amazing. Reprofiled to a 15° edge. The sheath is beautiful, especially on a dangle clip. Splits wood. Carves great. Easy to sharpen. The ergos are awesome. Perfect purchase in hand. Simply love it.
Completely baffled why I don't see more praise for it.
It’s does have good dimensions. I think the price is a little high for s30v in todays market.
Love the direction they are heading. Pretty much covered all my gripes with it. I’d prefer a 4.5” blade, a fire steel loop, and kydex option.
You can go with kydex sheath with fire steel loop if you order from gerber. It's one of the the options
great! Gerber is back! I've been waiting for an American-made Gerber! Thank you, with gratitude from Japan.
CONGRATULATIONS, Gerber!
I am happy to see this great American-made knife. I love EVERYTHING about the sheath. S 30V is a great steel choice. The full-tang blade with its size, shape and edge geometry is is perfect. (If someone wants a steeper secondary bevel, they can put it on during their first sharpening.)
Mine came the other day. It's a great little bushcraft style knife.
Glad you are happy with it!
@@gideonstactical 🤝🏼
This review stoked me to order a custom Terracraft. Love it. Thank you.
They are selling to the crowd that recognizes the brand and want to step up their knife game. S30v is good steel depending on what you plan on using it for. Not everyone is taking it to the woods and beating on it, not everyone sharpens their blade very weekend.
The review shows it to be a dependable knife. USA made, s30v steel, great grip. Good looking leather sheath.
Lacks grip color options.
Great knife for the money.
Very cool option from Gerber. Not really for me, but I like that they have this. I do really love that custom sheath. Absolutely awesome!
Looks great. I enjoyed the principle but it looks better as a bigger knife.
As soon as I saw that small choil, I said "nope, not for me". I want the sharp edge to run right up against the guard or handle. If I need to whittle something down, I can exert the most force right at the handle. The farther away from the handle, the smaller amount of force you can bring against whatever you're dealing with. And with all of the options out there, I can find better than this for me. Picky, I know. But we've all got our druthers.
I love this knife, but I would never choke up on the choice without gloves. But the ergos on the full purchase grab are awesome. I, honestly, have never thought to grip up in day to day use.
I love my Gerber multi tool, have had it for many years, still works just as good as the day i bought it. Yes, it's heavy, but it's one that was made in the U.S.
Great vid as always, all the best for 2021 for you and your loved ones! Greetings from Spain (EU).
I've got the smaller, budget-minded Gerber Principle. It's a handy knife and well made. This one looks to have some promise, especially with a high quality steel like the S30V.
Thank you for the video. Very helpful. I like a USA made knife. Hope to see more of these.
Thank you for this. Very well done, well thought out comparison / and analysis regarding specs, and options. Excellent video. Guy Speight
I've ignored Gerber for years. They became a gas station knife, in my opinion. However, what you and a couple of other reviewers are saying, it's time to for me to take a closer look at them. Like you though, I really dislike that edge angle.
The Gerber fastball and the Gerber flat iron are really great knives
Lol, I have never abandoned Gerber. You just have to know what you are shopping for 😎
Hey brother the Gerber prodigy & Strong arm,are super for the price edge retention so,so bit super easy to bring the edge back
You’re actually braindead if you think they’re akin to a gas station knife
Over $220 now on discounted sellers like BladeHQ. Almost doubled in price in less than 2 years.
Glad to see that Gerber is finally making decent blades again
Good demo and initial review. Thanks and take care.
Hi Aaron. I like the sheath. Thanks for another great review. Thanks
Love mine. Carry it as a edc/truck knife.
I love my Principle, and I really enjoy my Strongarm. Just Strongarm is to big for taking to work and around everywhere in public. Maybe I would try a Terracraft. The Principle is awesome tho.
This is my favorite knives channel, I enjoy so much watching you. I hope your next review will be the either the field buddy 5.5 or the rokka wilderness warrior, it will help me choose my next knife.
I'm impressed. I would consider it if I didn't have more knives than I need already.That was a good overview.
Great review as usual. The best knife content on UA-cam.
I agree that Gerber is doing a much better job than they had been doing and if they continue they will meet with lots of success. There are a lot of guys like myself who are older (I’m 54) who have a soft spot for Gerber and can remember when they were a premier brand. Hopefully they will work on the edge geometry on the Teracraft. Lots of knives come with an edge more suited to an axe and aren’t nearly the cutters they could be.
I would really like to see Gerber take a look at expanding the Strongarm line with, premium steel sprint runs (I have the BDZ-1 model), different colors, accessories for the sheath like fire steels, pouches, sharpeners, etc. I’d also like them to consider offering a Kabar USMC sized Strong arm. I think the design would work with a 6-7” blade.
Oh and I wish they would resurrect the old sword in the stone logo over the Generic shield logo.
Sorry for the long winded comment. I love discussing Gerber.
Not only were the knives great, they had phenomenal innovative sheath designs back in the day too. The Strongarm sheath reminds me of those. It's good to see them coming back to some of their old glory again.
@@Andrew-en4zx I agree. In my opinion a sheath makes up around 50% of the functionality of a knife. I have some knives a rarely carry just because the sheath is poor.
It’s an area that is easy for knife companies to cheap out on.
It looks very strong. Whether it is cutting wood or making a fire, I can see that there is no loss in this knife, and I will be willing to try.
You could save a lot of money and just get the smaller Gerber Principle which this knife is based on... especially when it's on sale for $45. My favorite budget outdoor knife is the Mora Kansbol.
Hopefully Gerber can get back into the game. I've not been overly impressed with their offerings for a while. I hope this the just the beginning.
So far the only good things I’ve found is the sunset trucker hat, the strongarm, and a multi tool
Goofy or not , 10 takes or not, great video:) Glad to see gerber paying attention to what the market is doing in bushcraft/survival knives.
Thank you for your video. It’s a verry interesting knife 🔪 👍🏼😀
Got one it’s great this and the principle are my everyday carry
Do you feel that edge geometry is more about them worrying about edge rolling or chipping. Would be eager to see a follow up after you change to a 15 degree edge. Thanks an happy new year
15 is totally silly for a knife like this
@@BOOSTEDLASER all depends on your look at it. This is to small to chop. So a little bit finer edge for actual wood work. Might be good. All depends on gerbers heat treat. Hopefully aaron does change it an does a replay.
@@michaelpatriots5702 No outdoor knife should be 15 deg
@@BOOSTEDLASER ok. But no knife designed for bushcraft should have an edge like an ax either. This is clearly there attempt to make a bushcraft knife. And like i said everybody has there own preference. I prefer convex grinds myself.
@@michaelpatriots5702 ALl my knives (but 1) are Bark River, convex...that one was convexed on my Work Sharp
Yeah most all knives I buy I have to thin the edge... I like them to cut number one!
I like buck knifes they do the edge around 16
Great video review as always!! Feedback on the knife itself: it doesn’t connect with me because I think they are better options out there (for my use) at that price point. I would rather save $100 and have a scandi grind (Condor Terrasaus) or spend that $150-160 and get a great Esee 4 (as one example) tricked out. Leather isn’t my sheath of choice either at that price point lol.
With that said, great video and still excited about what Gerber is doing.
The is the best and only options for a true knife sheath. You can have your plastic bs if you wish.
Got a customized Sedulo from my wife and daughter for Christmas and love it.... apparently though when you look on FB there are a lot of unhappy people with them ... specifically their customer service... hope they get squared away... Gerber was the first knife I ever bought myself at my first job. I still have one of my originals... still love it. So happy to see them swinging hard again!
Hi Mr G.T. almost knife god.haha.Good review,I have B.M.#162 Bushcraft,
love that knife.It is more
money but worth the price.
Had for yrs.still not sure weather I like leather sheath
better with dangler in
cold months. Think u can get Kydex from B.M.So Gerber out for me.Glad they are lmproving.U S A line.
Yeah that's right! Beat that knife like it owes you money!
Looks like a great edc fixed blade
It's not the Huckberry version (be it still essentially the same knife). 3v isn't stainless which is why I prefer magnacut ak 5.5. I want a blade that can process food, get wet, and not need to be oiled / coated. Love your LT5, you and TJ should do an AEBL version
Or magnacut 😊
CPM 3V is extremely rust resistant. You can watch some UA-cam videos of people doing test on it.
Do you think they would do a custom grind angle? I'd hate to have to re-profle S30V steel. I don't have that much patience for a $150 knife.
I re-profiled mine with no issue. 15°. It was easy.
@EastTactics
it seems to have an edge over 30 degrees... which is the max angle I can get to on my worksharp precision adjust knife sharpener. Should I reprofile it to say 30 degrees, or 25 degrees. what angle would you put on this? I think you mention you were going to put a 17degree angle on this... wouldnt that make it way to suseptible to chips and dings for a rigourous camping usage?
Ya, 20 each side is what I would do
Great to see from Gerber, I love that they are looking outside of China, but the $200+ price tag is way too much to ask. There are way too many other, and probably better, knives on the market for much less. Cut that price in half for a less than 4" knife, and it would be a good deal all day long.
Thanks for the video, Aaron!
Gerber has slightly redesigned the Benchmade Bushcrafter right down to copying the color of the scales including the red liner. Huge marketing mistake to only make these available through their website. Most of us want to be able to handle a knife and get the feel of it before dropping a hundred plus dollars. That said, the knife has potential. The Benchmade Bushcrafter is the only knife I own that didn't require reprofiling the edge to get the level of performance I want. Since I already own the Bushcrafter I don't see any reason to add this one to my collection.
A year later, my son bought a Terracraft and loves it. I had to reprofile the edge for him to make it cut really well, but it is a super nice knife. Given the Benchmade Bushcrafter is now listed for $260 the Gerber Terracraft at a hundred dollars less is a great option.
100% agree with your review. Love my reprofiled Teracraft. It was easy to do and slices like a beat while still splitting wood. Amazing design.
Curious, if you ordered a custom sheath, why didn't you get a fire steel loop like you said was the biggest miss from the leather sheath?
Ordered mine today after seeing this video. Ive had my eye on the principle for a while now, but really wanted better steel and I hate poly sheaths. Also definitely prefer the sabre over scandi for edc/general tasks. I’ll probably still scoop up the principle as a beater but I am wicked happy that they went in this direction with this knife.
There is no knife, that will cut, hold and generally perform as it should, with it's factory edge! Even the full convex edges of Bark River knives, for example! You have to remove the fatigued steel and also remove any microbevel, or either blend it with the main bevel. The reason, many people complain, that their knives take microchips, or don't hold an edge well, or even they don't cut-slice as they thought they would, is because, they don't understand, how important is to reprofile and remove the fatigued steel, of a new edge on ANY new knife.
This is a 100% truth. People need to start learning this and how to sharpen.
@@tacticalcenter8658 I have to add, that when it comes to knife sharpening...Sandpapers and a decent but not expensive set of (200-400 grit, 1000 , 3000) set of stones, is the way to go. A fine leatherstrop and a ceramic rod, can also add, to the edge maintenance and fine tuning. Stay away from pull-through sharpeners. Very expensive sharpening systems, do not perform as their price may tell. Nothing beats stones and experience is a must, so we all have to practice, on cheaper knives, as much as we can, before we buy expensive user knives.
@@greekveteran2715 basswood strop is a bit better imho. I find that beginners round there edges on leather. Kangaroo leather is a good option though, as it's so thin, that it's not easy for beginners to round the edge. Also users have to learn to use the right type of abrasives for the steel they are sharpening. Above all, they need to learn proper apex formation and burr removal which are usually not learned from most tutorials. Science of sharp blog has some good info on this.
@@tacticalcenter8658 Exactly!! Not only begginers, but unfortunately many people, don't use strops as they should. We have to strop in a smaller angle, than the angle we sharpened, either way we dull the edge! Also what you mentioned is very important. Keeping the proper angle while not overstroping, especially on thick leather, is the only way to avoid the round edge (too much convexing). Way more convexed edge, has negative effects rather than positive.
Yes I’ve learning that very quickly too, the factory edge is not at it’s optimal efficiency. Thanks for stating that point
🔪 wish the knife handle was an earth tone or was similar to the color of the sheath ?
I'm a simple man from China.
I see "Made in USA", I click buy.
Looks like a good package to me pretty smart sheath too. I would thin the crap out of it though. But i thin everything 😁
Apart from the hole near the middle it looks like a perfect knife
I suspect that's for a bow drill setup maybe 🤷♂️
I agree the placement of such a large hole has some serious potential to be a weak point for heavy use.
@@The_Crow_Flies what kind of heavy use are you talking about? Splitting firewood or opening paint cans? Digging a hole or like chopping down a tree?
if you break a knife in half it's because you're doing something wrong.
@@kejadventures241 well it could be a weak spit for batoning (sp?) it could snap right at the large hole closest to the blade.
@@The_Crow_Flies well if you're splitting firewood with a $50 Gerber knife I would imagine that your mistake wasn't the strength of the knife.
The bench made bush crafter, by Gerber.
I thought the same exact thing when I first saw it.
Totally
Exactly
I don't think they look even slightly similar.
Same exact stupid sheath too. A dedicated dangler sheath without the dangler part. Rides too high on the belt with rivets. You wouldn’t need them any way. What a stupid design. Love my bushcrafter by the way but the sheath took a lot of work. Hardware on the bushcrafter was garbage too. Totally unacceptable for a $200 knife.
My kids got me a Gerber strong-arm for Christmas. I love it, perfect fit in the hand, super sharp, and very very rugged. I've been chopping, batoning and prying with it and it's still like new and doing a great job. I think Gerber is back for sure
I for one will be buying a Gerber !
Hi Aaron, Terrific review, as usual. MY PROBLEM with designs like the Gerber Terracraft and the Benchmade Bushcrafter is the strange, self-destructive decision to place enormous, blade-weakening holes in the handle. With both the Terracraft and the Bushcrafter, the design crew must have asked themselves, "How can we weaken the blade the most? How about if we put a big hole right in the middle, where the cutting edge ends and the handle begins? YES! That will completely weaken the knife! Let's do it!" I understand weight reduction. But those big holes reduce weight by no more than 6 grams. I understand balance. Honestly, I do understand. But for myself, and I would guess for many of us out there, balance is not a useful quality. I own a custom CPM 3V "Pearson's Puukko" (so named because of the enormous finger guard I designed; the name is my attempt at humor) with 7.5 cm (3.5 in) blade and 125 cm (5 in.) handle made for me by Jolly Roger Knives. It is my favorite bushcraft blade, and rests on my belt right next to my favorite knife, the LT Wright Outback. Balance is at middle finger, not at 1st finger as with most high-end utility and bushcraft knives, or even forward of the finger guard, as is the case with longer blades. The LT Wright Genesis, the Mora Garberg, the PKS Kephart, and the Survival Lilly APO-1 all balance just south of the finger guard at about the index finger when holding the knife in hammer grip. Honestly, I find no difference in performance and hand fatigue between the Pearson's Puukko (balance at middle finger), the Casstrom #10 Swedish Forest Knife (balance at first finger), and the Cold Steel SRK (balance at the ricasso), with the Pearson's and the Casstrom #10 having almost the same weight and the SRK coming in just a bit heavier. So I find no justification to obtain "balance" by drilling big holes into the steel. I know the balance factor may be important for some people, but I doubt it is *critical* for most people, and if anyone has seen the many UA-cam vidoes on Benchmade Bushcrafter, broken right at the forward hole after batoning, I believe most would opt for a stronger handle over whatever small (psychological or real) advantage obtains from moving the balance point forward a couple of millimeters. Nice review, nice discussion of a *light use* camp knife, though I would say the knife should not be considered suitable for firecraft, heavy bushcrafting, or survival, since the darn thing will probably break. PM 20210102.
how tf would the knife break lmao it would break if you use it as a pry bar and knives arent made for prying
I think the holes in these Gerbers are mostly a styling cue. But most survival knives have holes in their handles, and they don't explode. If there is going to be a cutout in the handle, a round hole is the optimal shape from the point of stress risers. And you shouldn't do heavy batoning with a stainless blade anyway, unless it's super thick. If you want a tough blade, get one made out of 5160 at a low Rockwell.
@@sheltermonkey6065 Yep, I would not baton with this knife. I'm sure it's just fine for light-duty notching and whittling and cooking and basic camp chores. But I wouldn't carry it when I can get a more robust knife for the same amount of money. The handle is unique, and may fit some hands better than mine, and for that reason alone, the knife may be a good choice for certain people.
@@AncientNovelist Well there are always tradeoffs. I have no reason to baton wood and prefer stainless blades with about 1/8" blade stock (much thinner than this Gerber). 5160 at a low Rockwell is going to be leaps and bounds tougher than S30V, S35VN, 1095, and even 3V.
@@sheltermonkey6065 Yep. Agreed. Except for the utility of batoning. I do it all the time, but with my Gerber Strongarm, not with my LT Wright Outback or LT Wright GNS or any of my other expensive blades. The Strongarm doesn't chip, and rolling the edge rarely happens--and when it does, you just take it to the stones and the strop and it's as good as new. The Strongarm doesn't have big holes in it, and it doesn't break.
I couldn't agree with you more brother, if more production knife companies would follow spyderco in a way and do majority of their blade edges at 17deg then that would be amazing and with today's steel compositions the knives should be able to hold up easily with a laid back edge like that and then if owners want to lay it back further to say 15deg then that is up to them and won't be neat as difficult...
There's a big difference between the intended use of an EDC folding knife and a general purpose outdoors knife.
Probably after so much criticism over the years they have decided to do something about the once iconic USA brand. I grew up with them when they were good, eg Shorty, Magnum etc (BTW to know these models u have to be at least 50 YO plus LOL) . Made in the USA, then the stupid (it always is, by some crazies who think they know in the company but just want to big wig themselves) senior staff decide to market their products with a TV personality, oh man, what a mistake. Let's hope this is some sort of come back for them.
Yep. I recall when I purchased a Gerber product, I knew I was getting quality. I still have the Tac II I purchased in the Army. I mainly got it because it came with ALICE attachments for the sheath to my web gear. It was made in the USA by Gerber back then. Mine is stamped with "First production run". Then they started making them in China. Then the Bear Grylls and China stuff, and I figured they'd gone the way of Schrade and Uncle Henry. Now that they are trying to get back to their Made in the USA roots, China is counterfeiting their USA made knives, right down to the exact markings, probably on Gerber equipment, too.
@@latigomorgan Yep, u hit the nail right on the head there. Schrade and Uncle Henry, my dad had some classics there, now just a lot of poor quality. The crazy thing is Fiskars who were actually making those stupid TV knives can and do make good products but this are not made in China, only the cheaper lines. I guess what happened was this "urge" for many to live the dream (or rather just dream LOL) about being some sort of adventurer and if you had some knife some TV guy said was good, then obviously you'd be good to go! yeah right! NOT!
Great review. Answered all my questions.
Just curious. Why didn’t you ad a fero rod holder to your kydex sheath ?
It looks similar to the Gerber Principle. Just a larger version.
It is. I have both. The principle I bought from a store and was sharp/perfect. I ordered a custom made fastball and principle and they came dull, stripped threading in the scales, and the principle had to be completely reprofile because it was heavily favoring one side and they left a huge "wire". More like a speed bump.
Hello Aharon.
First, I LOVE your videos!
Second, when, do you think, Gerber will sell this knife with Kydex sheath?
Thank you.
I want to like gerber again
The Doug Ritter RSK Mk3-G2 is out in CPM-S45VN for $193. David C. Andersen's Nordsmith Pilgrim manufactured by L.T. Wright looks very nice.
Maybe a year back when the Gerber Fastball was first released I noticed that right behind the edge was thick as well. Some youtubers were saying .03X in. (ridiculous for a 3" folding pocket knife) where a lot of knives are lower .02X's . I put a steeper edge on it and found out that it seemed to chip fairly easily. It is my opinion that S30V tends to chip in general and not so much a Gerber issue. This may be why they keep the thickness a bit higher for durability.
Great video sir
Could the secondary loop for the dangler be used as fire steel loop?
Absolutely
Looks impressive, for my taste. I would have it.
Must say I prefer a six inch blade. You surprised me with the cutting edge of 15 to 17 degrees. Kitchen knife yup but for an outdoor knife? Like to hear your thoughts on that edge for outdoors? Great review as usual 👍! Thanks for bringing this knife review to us and happy new year!
I don't think those numbers are even slightly realistic for general purpose outdoor use.
Well, I just got my second Gerber knife that does connect with me! Problem is it's my second Gerber StrongArm; I now have the BDZ-1 version they offered a few years back and the 420HC that was $40 on BladeHQ. Will I be buying a Terracraft? Well, maybe. If they're still making it a few months from now with decent QC, I will be. My buddy who does lawn/garden/fence/roofing work just got one as a work knife, I played around with it a bit, and honestly, I'd be lying if I said I didn't like it. That being said, with the ESEE-4 dropping in S35VN with textured G-10 scales AND it being a known quantity (I have the ESEE-3 in S35VN and love it as a general work knife), not only am I getting a less chippy steel if I'm getting that, but I'm getting it for a better price point and of course with great edge geometry. I realize they're not direct competitors, but I see myself using the Terracraft as more of a general purpose blade than a bushcrafting blade (I have my 1095 CroVan ESEEs for that) if/when I do indeed buy one.
I like that Gerber is making these in the USA with more premium materials, I'd like to see more of that. But at this price point they do not stand out from their competitors, there are better options for the money.
Looking for a Full Tang knife blade like this in good Steele at a good price . For a Steak Knife and general Camping do anything knife?
Got some recommendations?
Looked for it, looks like not available so far? Checked several knife sites.
This is available only through the Gerber gear website. There should be a link in my description box below. No other distributors carry it.
I'm digging that knife!
So, backbevel it at 15 degrees and then put on a nice 21-degree apex bevel. How hard is that?
This is promising from Gerber!! I do like their USA made autos, a lot! For the money, it’s hard to beat them
Looks like Gerber mended its ways and is BACK!!!
I like it... But for ur price comparison o thought you may want to take into account the benchmade pukko, similar size, better steel and a more universally liked handle shape. All for $100
How do I put the edge he was talking about on the knife without ruining it
I prefer carbon steel out in the woods, I find it more forgiving. I’ll stick to my Terävä Jääkäripuukko 140 in Carbon Steel. Better price and better blade in my opinion.
That's a great knife
real question here... I always wonder why people need a fire steel attached to the sheath, when imhop you need to have a KNIFE SHARPENER attached. what good is a fire steel if your knife goes dull? would love to see a discussion on this.
Bushcraft is a fashion show.
@@sheltermonkey6065 weak statement, it’s called preference.
@@RubleInnawoods Sure people have preferences, but "bushcraft" is largely a fashion show.
That cutting edge angle does seem a bit too fat to be slicy, but I think it could be improved by convexing it so it retains some lateral strength when you run it into bone or crosscut with it.
I will take my Bark River into the woods everyday over a gerber, but that one it pretty sweet, especially for the price
I must have missed your fire steel loop on the custom sheath you had made. I'm guessing a majority of people buying this knife doesn't use a fire steel often enough to want a bulkier knife sheath. Out in the woods you will probably carry the knife all day, using it now and then. While you make a fire what, 2-3 times a day? And you can use your fire steel, but i guess a majority uses a lighter anyway.
Great review!
I have a Gerber folder with S30V and the angle of the cutting bevel needs to be changed as well....
Think I'll go with the principle and look elsewear for a bigger camp knife. I've been looking at the Benchmade Leuku and ESEE 6 for a bigger fixed blade.
Very good review, I appreciate it 👍
Long time fan here. Why are your feathers so short?
It’s the thickness behind the edge that’s most important. Like you, I prefer a lesser angle, maybe 18 degree edge, but if it is too thick behind the edge it is a poor slicer. So, the steepness of the high Sabre grind will define the “sliceyness” of the blade. I noticed the belt loop is out box stitched. Too many rivets. Polymer liners are usually found on cheap sheaths also. (My opinion.). Thanks and Happy New Year Aaron and GT family.
GERBER WITH A REAL STEEL? TYPO??
S30v is great and all, how is the heat treat? Gerber has NEVER been known for good steel.
@@BOOSTEDLASER little industry insight, Gerber gets their steel from the same supplier as competitors benchmade and similar. They also get it heat treated by a company not directly connected to them. The company that heat treats Gerbers blades also does benchmades and leathermans, so the heat treat should be the same on their US products as competitors. Been to Portland, seen it myself. The steel is heat treated as good as any other company
@@hunterglaspell5580I do not agree
only problem with the gerber website is that they dont seem to be shipping to Denmark
No ferro loop on your custom sheath, but complained the sheath from Gerber did not offer it.
The price has blown up now
$150 in 2021, now $220 at Gerber site...40% increase in 2 years on a mediocre knife? I will pass. Gerber is not Benchmade or Wilke..
Where did you get this blade? Can’t find it anywhere.
We are looking at a custom knife priced close to a Benchcraft at $212.
Thank you 👍.
That’s a proper review
Good review. Being budget minded I’ve wondered why most sub $100 stainless knives come with a hollow (concave) grind. It would seem to be less work to have a saber or Scandinavian grind but I’m no knife maker.
My preference are flat ground blades.
Still nothing there to compel me to buy it. Thanks for video
It has also has a stupid choil.