Sandro, you're the best car detailer that I've come across on UA-cam. Your attention to detail and OCD in some cases is AMAZING! I've learnt 95% of my detailing work from you. Always to the point and perfectly explained. No sponsors, no bullshit, no paid promotions, no time wastage (Very Important) and no useless talks. Clear and crisp with results to show as proof! Huge Thanks and Respect mate! Please keep posting such videos. We love learning from your videos :)
Dude. I just LOVE watching your videos. I watched years ago and then lost track of your channel. SO glad I rediscovered it. Keep up the phenomenal work and story telling.
This is why I love your videos ! It’s about detailing ! Not selling products or trying to do things one way You express how you do it, and then make us think for ourselves. Great job
Me: yeah I do engine bay details $50-100… Sandro: yeah I do engine bay details $500+ 😅 Man has the absolute best skills in the detailing industry! Sandro you are the GOAT of detailing yet another fantastic edit and a very informed video thank you ❤
Should be noted that Nissan's typically don't have a clear coat applied to their engine bay from the 80s to into the early 2000s. They only have a series of primers and base colour. Most cars like S and R chassis looked bad under the hood straight from the factory. I had an r34 GTt like this and I used a mild cleaning paint wax to get the final cleaning for painted underhood surfaces.
Also, i’ve never seen using a non abrasive polish on plastics to restore them. I’d really love to see a video on that process i’m the future! So much knowledge i don’t even know
I’ve actually polished plastics in that way on many of my past detailing Volgs and I did do a video on that specifically about 5yrs ago, but I’m sure I’ll have more on the subject in the future.
I think knowing which components or connectors are water-sensitive is important to a safe clean process. And that may be why novices should not attempt engine bay cleaning/detailing. Which is why I have been hesitant to try thus far :) Although I appreciated your showing (albeit briefly) the use of tapes to insulate those electrically sensitive areas, frankly I'd have wished for more specifics, knowing these are likely to vary from car to car. In any case I thoroughly enjoyed your videography including your sound editing, on top of your expert experience sharing. Thank you!
I'm a professional automotive technician, as well as the owner of a detail business. So I'll do my best to help. Realistically, the masking of electrical connections is not needed. Everything under the hood of a vehicle is designed to, and is going to, get wet. Alternator, battery connections, belts, hoses, harnesses, plugs, wires, all of it. The part to be concerned about is high pressure water. So if you aren't sure what you can pressure wash and what you can't, just use the natural flow of water from a hose. You will absolutely be fine.
Sandro, mate, you have the patience of a saint!! Loving the deep insightful knowledge sharing in these videos!! Always a pleasure to watch and learn. Thank you so much.
It was absolutely fantastic Sandro - I wish I could express that how much appreciation I feel towards your work and your attitude! Hopefully one day I can visit Australia and pop in to your shop for a handshake! 😊
Great video as usual When you mention Sandros name All you can say is IN the persuit of EXCELLENCE Sandro you always go the extra nine yards Its just so refreshing to see I know the videos only 22 mins but i would guess it took you 4 or so hours to finish to this excellent standard Every job is a self portriat of the person who dit it. AUTOGRAPH your work with EXCELLENCE Keep them coming IN Sandro we trust
Thanks as always Bob, with filming it was about a day and a half worth of work but you’re right on the money that it was about 4-5hrs of actual detailing labour on that engine bay and really satisfying work to see it come up so well.
Hey mate, failed to disapoint once more...pictures /video say a thousand words however your commentary is as valuable as gold for all of us Well done mate and hope you and Family are doing well down in Melbourne Best Regards from Sydney MR
Hoping to see more content of the R34, which judging by the listing on CarSales looks like it's going to come out great. I've recently just finished detailing mine once again and they definitely have their list of challenges being soft 25 year old paint.
Top of the line work Sandro! This an area of a vehicle that I've always been too scared to clean. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
Great vid, masterfully done. Love the editing and seeing the techniques used here. A little advice as someone who preps a lot of people for important speaking events; be conscientious of the 'down'talk at the end of each phrase. A little here and there is okay, but with most things, can be overdone. Great content! Keep 'em coming.
In order of cleaning which comes first and second in dirty car? Engine bay or under body or wheels? Can you make a video on underbody/undercarriage cleaning?
Exceptional as always! Sandro, could I make a future video request please? Cleaning dirty contrast leather stitching. My car has white stitching which is grubby and now off white, yet every video I can find online deals only with the actual cleaning of the leather in which the stitching gets the same 'blanket' treatment, which still leaves the stitching looking old and grubby. :( I cannot find one such video that focuses on the stitching alone and the process involved with cleaning and restoring to it's original as new condition. Is it even possible? Thanks
It's probably important to note not all degreasers are equal, some use caustic substances to reach the alkalinity they desire. The caustic substances will react with certain metals and metal coatings eating them away. When doing an engine bay make sure to use a non caustic degreaser. One I've found which isn't actually a degreaser it's a soap but it's so alkaline you can use it as a degreaser is Nerta Diamond Active Foam.
Hey Sandro, I am sure you did everything wrong! Now all the potential customers will inspect the engine compartment with a magnifying glass as they will think car was totaled with frontal crash and got all the new front)))))) I’m kidding Sandro!!! You have done it great! I am sure despite so many years this car was used the engine bay became better than new one. At least nobody has been polishing it from the factory during delivery to the first owner, that’s for sure. I am cleaning engine bay in exactly the same way (hm, interesting - why? Hm, it’s seems I have been taught by you, aha, now I know why I am doing the same😊). The only difference is I am not using Tornador for my non-professional usage and using wet microfiber cloths only, but now I have started to think I need one as well)))) I am sure I will not invest to it now, but you never know)))) I am sure all of us here in the comments appreciate the final words customer told about what he is thinking. Many thanks for sharing another lesson and looking forward for another video courses) Cheers from foggy autumn Sweden.
Haha thank you my friend, I think I should buy some shares in Tornador! Great to hear you’re giving your engine bay a nice clean and sure it will look fantastic! Also great to hear the video was helpful!
Very nice! I’m scared to clean my engine bay for fear I’ll damage something with water. If you don’t have that equipment can you just cover parts that shouldn’t get wet & use a water hose? I have to do something. My Z3 is 25 years old, so it’s pretty dirty under there 😭
Thanks and if you’ve got a pressure washer it helps reduce the volume of water compared to a garden hose so it’s a little better, and yes, just try and cover the sensitive parts with tape or plastic bags.
I think you should do what works well for you, as explained in the video I have my reasons for working the way I do but I think everyone should adapt these techniques to suit their goals, needs abs wants.
Thanks, I don’t think I’ve made up my mind on it yet, I’d really have so some first hand testing, have a look at start up and running costs and time as well as performance and safety to really make a call on it.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing No worries, had a mate a work talk about it, possibly he may start a side business with it, showed me a few videos and the results look really good, wanted to know your opinion on it. Thanks mate.
As always a fantastic video. I really appreciate the thorough explanations and the time you take to get the best results for you customers and viewers alike. That being said, could you do a video on interior dressings at some point? And what are your thoughts on CarPro Perl as an interior dressing?
Hi Sandro, love your extensive attention to detail. Was wondering what is the best way to contact you re getting detailing quote. Note, am a northern suburb resident. Cheers
Hey again Sandro, I was wondering what I should do when it rains shortly after I have already done a maintenance wash. Recently, we’ve been getting more random rain and since I live in the desert, once that water dries, it leaves behind either a polka dot pattern of dirt or just a layer of dirt. How would I treat the car so that I don’t have etching and so that I can safely get rid of that dirt without scratching my paint? Thanks in advance
I have a few questions. I am looking to buy a tornador with a container, and does that one blow as hard as the one without the container ? Also , I know you can use it as a blower only by blocking a valve but, can you detach a container altogether and use it as a blower as such ? Thx ...
Yes they both work equally well as blowers. You can remove the bottle and siphon but the lid is attached to the blower - you should be fine like that - but I guess you could potentially also remove the lid, but haven’t tried that.
I don’t think the “best” degreaser really exists, it’s more about what works well for you in relation to cost, effectiveness and safety. Wise Guy that I used in the video is great, I also like Carpro Multi-X and a few others, and I play around with dilutions depending on the specific level on grime and the areas I’m treating.
At first glance, the engine cover makes it look like a V6 which caught my attention being they never came with one. Then I saw that it says neo straight 6. I'd be interested to know more about the car.
The model is a Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, it was considered a mid range sitting above the base R34 but below the GT-R, but I’m sure you can finds loads of info with a quick search 🙂
Hey Sandro, I was wondering what wheel brush you use for the wheel wells? I bought some cheap ones at Walmart and they broke after a few washes and some that I bought from Amazon were poor quality
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank you Sandro! Always awesome to hear from you. Sorry for the confusion, I actually meant the red wheel well brush that has a bend by the handle, the one that has a longer section of more brush hairs, I hope I’m being clear I’m not good at describing things lol
I think this is the one your looking for, it comes in red or blue. You blend the brush yourself to get that curved shape. There’s lots of similar ones but the EZ ones do tend to be more durable in my experience. bit.ly/3CmMBu0
Hi Sandro, quick question what products would you recommend to clean under the car , so degreaser, plus protections as well, cheers :) I was thinking CAR PRO Multi X and then hydro2 spray on and then use the hi pressure water to seal it. :) Also what was the alkaline base digresser you used please? I know Kenco used to make a strong degreaser ?
The degreaser should listed in the description box and displayed on screen, I think it was Wise Guy, but yes I think that process and those products should work well.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing, I've always used Hyper dressing 3/1 or 303 but Motorplast has taken their place. Spray on liberally, let sit and wipe up thr 2 or 3 little high spots left. Coats everything, lasts a long time and looks perfect.
I use to use steams a lot for engine bays so they absolutely work, but for me the Tornador is more efficient and because you don’t have to wait for the steam to disappear before you can see the results it’s also more user productive that way.
Car Craft pre-sale engine bay detail, hours spent, 7 stage clean. Used-car dealership detail - dip the entire car in tyre shine. Crazy how good you managed to get it ...... funny, how a measly extra 10-20mins to do things like door jams and the engine bay.. maybe every 2-4 washes ... saves BULK time if you don't ever do it
I wonder how bad it would really be to have say a cup of water get into the air intake. It's possible the pistons might hydro-lock but how likely is it in reality? I feel car engines could take a lot of water and be fine.
Love it Sandro. What was your process time and application wise with using Tar-X in the engine bay with respect to the plastics. I’d of been scared getting that near any plastics at all, especially doing a “dry” clean without using a hose for a thorough rinse afterwards, though i know you used the tornador. I’m essentially asking your professional opinion for how to safely and effectively use those tar removing chemicals around plastics. Thank you🫶
Glad you enjoyed it and for plastics and rubbers you don’t need to worry too much about any over flow of Tar-x making contact especially when the areas are already wet. Just don’t work the tar remover over them, or apply it to a dry surface or allow it to dry and you should be fine. It’s the same with using tar removers on the exterior, don’t be afraid that some over flow will make contact with plastics and rubbers, just don’t work them over those materials, keep the areas wet and you should be fine. In saying that also stick to what you’re comfortable with, you certainly don’t need to use them, there’s other options.
Sandro, you're the best car detailer that I've come across on UA-cam. Your attention to detail and OCD in some cases is AMAZING! I've learnt 95% of my detailing work from you. Always to the point and perfectly explained. No sponsors, no bullshit, no paid promotions, no time wastage (Very Important) and no useless talks. Clear and crisp with results to show as proof! Huge Thanks and Respect mate! Please keep posting such videos. We love learning from your videos :)
Thank you mate, really appreciate it!
You make the best edited and thorough car detailing videos on UA-cam hands down!
Really nice to hear that, thank you
You inspire the hell out of me to be a better detailer. Every video I watch of yours, I'm in awe of the results. Awesome job 👌👌
Dude. I just LOVE watching your videos. I watched years ago and then lost track of your channel. SO glad I rediscovered it. Keep up the phenomenal work and story telling.
Really to hear that, appreciate it mate!
All I can think about R34 is that iconic legendary Japanese police car. I hope Mr. Sandro detailed and epicly filmed it one day!
I am blow away every time you post your work/art, it really is unbelievable.
Man Oh Man,PURE EXCELLENCE!
🙂
This is why I love your videos ! It’s about detailing ! Not selling products or trying to do things one way
You express how you do it, and then make us think for ourselves.
Great job
Sandro, I know you hear it all the time, but you, sir, are a master of your craft - both detailing and videography. Thank you for all you do!
Amazing chanel for people who love cars. Thank you!
Thanks, appreciate the comment
love detailing engine bays😫😫so satisfying. great work sandro
The right video at the right moment.
Hope it’s helpful
Me: yeah I do engine bay details $50-100… Sandro: yeah I do engine bay details $500+ 😅
Man has the absolute best skills in the detailing industry! Sandro you are the GOAT of detailing yet another fantastic edit and a very informed video thank you ❤
Top work, Sandro.👍👍👍
Great Video Sandro, great to see a dirty engine bay getting a full detail learned a lot from it thank you!
Should be noted that Nissan's typically don't have a clear coat applied to their engine bay from the 80s to into the early 2000s. They only have a series of primers and base colour. Most cars like S and R chassis looked bad under the hood straight from the factory. I had an r34 GTt like this and I used a mild cleaning paint wax to get the final cleaning for painted underhood surfaces.
Also, i’ve never seen using a non abrasive polish on plastics to restore them. I’d really love to see a video on that process i’m the future! So much knowledge i don’t even know
I’ve actually polished plastics in that way on many of my past detailing Volgs and I did do a video on that specifically about 5yrs ago, but I’m sure I’ll have more on the subject in the future.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Perfect i’ll check the channel. surprised i haven’t seen it already in that case😂
Man the tornador seems so amazing to have for a job like this
I think knowing which components or connectors are water-sensitive is important to a safe clean process. And that may be why novices should not attempt engine bay cleaning/detailing. Which is why I have been hesitant to try thus far :) Although I appreciated your showing (albeit briefly) the use of tapes to insulate those electrically sensitive areas, frankly I'd have wished for more specifics, knowing these are likely to vary from car to car. In any case I thoroughly enjoyed your videography including your sound editing, on top of your expert experience sharing. Thank you!
I'm a professional automotive technician, as well as the owner of a detail business. So I'll do my best to help. Realistically, the masking of electrical connections is not needed. Everything under the hood of a vehicle is designed to, and is going to, get wet. Alternator, battery connections, belts, hoses, harnesses, plugs, wires, all of it. The part to be concerned about is high pressure water. So if you aren't sure what you can pressure wash and what you can't, just use the natural flow of water from a hose. You will absolutely be fine.
Sandro, mate, you have the patience of a saint!! Loving the deep insightful knowledge sharing in these videos!! Always a pleasure to watch and learn. Thank you so much.
It was absolutely fantastic Sandro - I wish I could express that how much appreciation I feel towards your work and your attitude! Hopefully one day I can visit Australia and pop in to your shop for a handshake! 😊
Sandro is always showing off his fancy detailing lights_ 😂. excellent job sir love the GTR
Another great video sir! Engine bays get nasty!
Great video as usual When you mention Sandros name All you can say is IN the persuit of EXCELLENCE Sandro you always go the extra nine yards Its just so refreshing to see I know the videos only 22 mins but i would guess it took you 4 or so hours to finish to this excellent standard Every job is a self portriat of the person who dit it. AUTOGRAPH your work with EXCELLENCE Keep them coming IN Sandro we trust
Thanks as always Bob, with filming it was about a day and a half worth of work but you’re right on the money that it was about 4-5hrs of actual detailing labour on that engine bay and really satisfying work to see it come up so well.
Hey mate, failed to disapoint once more...pictures /video say a thousand words however your commentary is as valuable as gold for all of us
Well done mate and hope you and Family are doing well down in Melbourne
Best Regards from Sydney
MR
Appreciate that mate and returning my best wishes to you and your family.
That Tornador is a neat bit of kit for an engine bay.
Well done.
Thanks Sandro
Amazing job!
Been hoping for a specific engine bay detail vid from you actually. Thanks Sandro!
Hope it was helpful.
Hoping to see more content of the R34, which judging by the listing on CarSales looks like it's going to come out great. I've recently just finished detailing mine once again and they definitely have their list of challenges being soft 25 year old paint.
Good advice Sandro soon be 200k subs
Top of the line work Sandro! This an area of a vehicle that I've always been too scared to clean. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
My pleasure mate 🙂
We some of your level workshops here in the UK.. great work
Great vid, masterfully done. Love the editing and seeing the techniques used here. A little advice as someone who preps a lot of people for important speaking events; be conscientious of the 'down'talk at the end of each phrase. A little here and there is okay, but with most things, can be overdone. Great content! Keep 'em coming.
great job Sandro! that awesome car looks amazing
In order of cleaning which comes first and second in dirty car?
Engine bay or under body or wheels?
Can you make a video on underbody/undercarriage cleaning?
And what about who don't have tornado? How to clean dirty engine bay safely?
Under hood, under car, wheels, door/trunk openings and then exterior has always worked well for me. Has the least amount of back tracking.
Exceptional as always! Sandro, could I make a future video request please? Cleaning dirty contrast leather stitching. My car has white stitching which is grubby and now off white, yet every video I can find online deals only with the actual cleaning of the leather in which the stitching gets the same 'blanket' treatment, which still leaves the stitching looking old and grubby. :(
I cannot find one such video that focuses on the stitching alone and the process involved with cleaning and restoring to it's original as new condition. Is it even possible? Thanks
Thanks and if I get a car in with some light colour stitching I’ll try to film cleaning it.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Appreciated, thanks so much!
Amazing video! Full of great information and well made. Thank you !
Appreciate that mate, thanks.
Hello, nice video ! You should try dry ice cleaning, this is the futur Sandro
I was thinking the same thing, especially the underside of the bonnet. Those dry ice cleaning machines aren't cheap though.
Still #1 Sandro!
🙂
Amazing work as always ! Love your channel ! 🧼✨
Thank you 🙂
Outstanding!
Those oen inner hood covers are quite rare to come by I believe
They are still available new.
It's probably important to note not all degreasers are equal, some use caustic substances to reach the alkalinity they desire. The caustic substances will react with certain metals and metal coatings eating them away. When doing an engine bay make sure to use a non caustic degreaser. One I've found which isn't actually a degreaser it's a soap but it's so alkaline you can use it as a degreaser is Nerta Diamond Active Foam.
Hey Sandro, I am sure you did everything wrong! Now all the potential customers will inspect the engine compartment with a magnifying glass as they will think car was totaled with frontal crash and got all the new front)))))) I’m kidding Sandro!!! You have done it great! I am sure despite so many years this car was used the engine bay became better than new one. At least nobody has been polishing it from the factory during delivery to the first owner, that’s for sure.
I am cleaning engine bay in exactly the same way (hm, interesting - why? Hm, it’s seems I have been taught by you, aha, now I know why I am doing the same😊). The only difference is I am not using Tornador for my non-professional usage and using wet microfiber cloths only, but now I have started to think I need one as well)))) I am sure I will not invest to it now, but you never know))))
I am sure all of us here in the comments appreciate the final words customer told about what he is thinking.
Many thanks for sharing another lesson and looking forward for another video courses)
Cheers from foggy autumn Sweden.
Haha thank you my friend, I think I should buy some shares in Tornador!
Great to hear you’re giving your engine bay a nice clean and sure it will look fantastic! Also great to hear the video was helpful!
Very nice! I’m scared to clean my engine bay for fear I’ll damage something with water. If you don’t have that equipment can you just cover parts that shouldn’t get wet & use a water hose? I have to do something. My Z3 is 25 years old, so it’s pretty dirty under there 😭
Thanks and if you’ve got a pressure washer it helps reduce the volume of water compared to a garden hose so it’s a little better, and yes, just try and cover the sensitive parts with tape or plastic bags.
Nicely done sir!!!! How is the new wash bay working out?
Thanks and the wash bay is fantastic
Mate you could have used a bigger brush to do the inside of the bonnet and then follow up with the smaller brush etc. Like they say Time is Money ?
I think you should do what works well for you, as explained in the video I have my reasons for working the way I do but I think everyone should adapt these techniques to suit their goals, needs abs wants.
Hey Sandro, great video, what do you think of dry ice cleaning for engine bay and under the car?
Thanks, I don’t think I’ve made up my mind on it yet, I’d really have so some first hand testing, have a look at start up and running costs and time as well as performance and safety to really make a call on it.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing No worries, had a mate a work talk about it, possibly he may start a side business with it, showed me a few videos and the results look really good, wanted to know your opinion on it. Thanks mate.
Nice!!! How many hours?
About 4-5hrs, thanks
As always a fantastic video. I really appreciate the thorough explanations and the time you take to get the best results for you customers and viewers alike.
That being said, could you do a video on interior dressings at some point? And what are your thoughts on CarPro Perl as an interior dressing?
Thanks and yes, I do have quite an old video on interior dressings including Perl, but I think a new video on interior dressings could be due 🙂
Hi Sandro, love your extensive attention to detail. Was wondering what is the best way to contact you re getting detailing quote. Note, am a northern suburb resident. Cheers
Thanks mate, and if you to the about page of this channel, there’s my email address and even social media links which you can send me a message.
Hey again Sandro, I was wondering what I should do when it rains shortly after I have already done a maintenance wash. Recently, we’ve been getting more random rain and since I live in the desert, once that water dries, it leaves behind either a polka dot pattern of dirt or just a layer of dirt. How would I treat the car so that I don’t have etching and so that I can safely get rid of that dirt without scratching my paint? Thanks in advance
I think a good snow foam dwell followed by a thorough pressure rinse and air blown dry should do it as a quick touchless clean.
I have a few questions. I am looking to buy a tornador with a container, and does that one blow as hard as the one without the container ? Also , I know you can use it as a blower only by blocking a valve but, can you detach a container altogether and use it as a blower as such ? Thx ...
Yes they both work equally well as blowers. You can remove the bottle and siphon but the lid is attached to the blower - you should be fine like that - but I guess you could potentially also remove the lid, but haven’t tried that.
What does alkaline-based degreaser do?
Most degreasers/APCs are alkaline based. Alkaline leaning chemicals tend to be great at attacking grease and road film contamination in particular.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing i see, whats the best degreaser x alkaline water ratio?
I don’t think the “best” degreaser really exists, it’s more about what works well for you in relation to cost, effectiveness and safety. Wise Guy that I used in the video is great, I also like Carpro Multi-X and a few others, and I play around with dilutions depending on the specific level on grime and the areas I’m treating.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing appreciate all these, thanks a lot!
At first glance, the engine cover makes it look like a V6 which caught my attention being they never came with one. Then I saw that it says neo straight 6. I'd be interested to know more about the car.
The model is a Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, it was considered a mid range sitting above the base R34 but below the GT-R, but I’m sure you can finds loads of info with a quick search 🙂
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I once owned an R33 GTS-25t. Any details or links on the specific engine used, particularly what they meant by neo?
I can give you a link to the car’s sale listing:
www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1998-nissan-skyline-25gt-t-r34-auto/SSE-AD-13630843
Hey Sandro, I was wondering what wheel brush you use for the wheel wells? I bought some cheap ones at Walmart and they broke after a few washes and some that I bought from Amazon were poor quality
This is the same one I’ve got at home, had it for years now, solid as a rock!
bit.ly/3RIf4QE
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank you Sandro! Always awesome to hear from you. Sorry for the confusion, I actually meant the red wheel well brush that has a bend by the handle, the one that has a longer section of more brush hairs, I hope I’m being clear I’m not good at describing things lol
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing that one still looks great, so I’ll try to get this blue one you showed me as well
I think this is the one your looking for, it comes in red or blue. You blend the brush yourself to get that curved shape. There’s lots of similar ones but the EZ ones do tend to be more durable in my experience.
bit.ly/3CmMBu0
Hi Sandro, quick question what products would you recommend to clean under the car , so degreaser, plus protections as well, cheers :) I was thinking CAR PRO Multi X and then hydro2 spray on and then use the hi pressure water to seal it. :)
Also what was the alkaline base digresser you used please? I know Kenco used to make a strong degreaser ?
The degreaser should listed in the description box and displayed on screen, I think it was Wise Guy, but yes I think that process and those products should work well.
Is it better to use warm water instead of steam gun?
I don’t thinks there’s always necessarily better or worse, it sometimes just a preference based on your own experience.
Have you tried Koche Motorplast yet?
No I haven’t
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing, I've always used Hyper dressing 3/1 or 303 but Motorplast has taken their place. Spray on liberally, let sit and wipe up thr 2 or 3 little high spots left. Coats everything, lasts a long time and looks perfect.
Would a handheld steam cleaner work almost as well as the Tornador?
I use to use steams a lot for engine bays so they absolutely work, but for me the Tornador is more efficient and because you don’t have to wait for the steam to disappear before you can see the results it’s also more user productive that way.
Car Craft pre-sale engine bay detail, hours spent, 7 stage clean.
Used-car dealership detail - dip the entire car in tyre shine.
Crazy how good you managed to get it ...... funny, how a measly extra 10-20mins to do things like door jams and the engine bay.. maybe every 2-4 washes ... saves BULK time if you don't ever do it
I would have stuffed a large or how many smaller microfiber towels in the air intake to prevent water intrusion .
I wonder how bad it would really be to have say a cup of water get into the air intake. It's possible the pistons might hydro-lock but how likely is it in reality? I feel car engines could take a lot of water and be fine.
Can Iron X be used in the engine Bay? Does it help?
Yes it can and it can certainly work well
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank you, Sr.
Should have thrown that neo engine cover away. Show this RB cam covers.
Clicked on seeing R34, only not a proper rb engine I was thinking, oh well
2nd
🥈
Good lord. What a waste of time. 15 plus years of experience
this was the most pretentious wash I have ever seen
What makes you say that
Love it Sandro. What was your process time and application wise with using Tar-X in the engine bay with respect to the plastics. I’d of been scared getting that near any plastics at all, especially doing a “dry” clean without using a hose for a thorough rinse afterwards, though i know you used the tornador. I’m essentially asking your professional opinion for how to safely and effectively use those tar removing chemicals around plastics. Thank you🫶
Glad you enjoyed it and for plastics and rubbers you don’t need to worry too much about any over flow of Tar-x making contact especially when the areas are already wet. Just don’t work the tar remover over them, or apply it to a dry surface or allow it to dry and you should be fine. It’s the same with using tar removers on the exterior, don’t be afraid that some over flow will make contact with plastics and rubbers, just don’t work them over those materials, keep the areas wet and you should be fine. In saying that also stick to what you’re comfortable with, you certainly don’t need to use them, there’s other options.
Brilliant work Sandro. When performing this type of service, do you use a product to treat rusty parts/bolts? If so, what do you use?
Thanks and acid cleaners like water spot removers with a stiff brush are quite good at removing rust, WD40 is another good one.