Mine started getting pretty hot, but only on my new camper pull. I wasn't even in the throttle. Found loose cap, but replaced w/new and almost made the top of the hill (75% improvement) on 2nd pull. Replaced under spec coolant with new and new thermostat. Will report back with 3rd pull results soon.
I have a 2005 F-250 6.0 with 242k miles. My issue is that COPIOUS amounts of air are coming from somewhere and pressurizing my degas bottle / cooling system. The truck has been EGR deleted. The bubbles have been multiple chemical tested and are NOT exhaust gasses. There are no leaks in the cooling system. I must secure the degas bottle cap semi- loose so all these air bubbles can vent while driving. My oil and coolant are pristine and the tailpipe exhaust is colorless even at startup. The truck runs at 190 degrees and never overheats even when towing and requires very little oil / coolant replacement. The truck has been doing this since I bought it in 2022. The truck runs and tows to spec with 18 mpg. Where are all these bubbles coming from??????
Compared to my 06 this truck seems like it’s idling a little rough. How long ago was the oil and filter changed? What oil and viscosity did he use? Did they use the long filter with that tall oil cap you changed out, or was it bypassing with the short filter?
To be honest... It's been almost 2 years since I saw this truck... If my memory serves me, at the time he told me the oil was recently changed but it has the wrong oil filter set up... So we just did the FL2016 oil filter, and a new Motorcraft cap. ... I don't think I looked at his injector patterns...
You could carefully try touching the upper radiator hose, and compare it to the lower radiator hose after the temp is up... Again be extremely carefully touching them as the lower hose may be really hot. If the upper is not hot, but the lower is... Your blockage would be your thermostat. Not common to have a water pump impeller break/fail on these engines. The failure of the thermostat could either be stuck closed or broke... Don't go with affordable (cheap), I recommend just put a Motorcraft back in, if it is a thermostat failure. While your there if you haven't already, replace your degas bottle cap (radiator cap), a stant brand or Motorcraft cap would be fine. It is common for these trucks to eat these caps for some reason. You wouldn't know if the cap was not holding pressure unless you tested it. Did you find your issue? Feel free to let us know, as I always like to know when faults are found and fixed☺️ Thank you for your comment....
106 outside temp stuck in traffic temp started going up, turned off the AC and it settled but stayed Above normal temp, when I started moving the temp went back to normal but as soon as i hit the steep hill it started going up again but made it home, recently i had a light for egr p0404 I believe, swapped the egr and has been driving fine till this happen, any ideas?
How does your a/c feel when it's ideling at a stop? Does it seem like your a/c doesn't feel like it normally does? What your describing... Seems like an air flow issue. " When you start moving", temp drops back down. I would start looking into your fan hub. I would assume all your fan shrouds is still intact and not broken up, correct?
@@sapsaz7102 AC seemed fine but could be wasn't paying much attention, I did notice lack of power or acceleration or even boost issue while it was doing all of this, before this, at times at a complete stop truck would hesitate then it would boost and drive fine, finally i got a code for an egr but maybe its a result of a bigger problem?
@@maximusilive4theking986 The EGR issue would be a separate issue from the overheating issue. I would look into possibly a fan clutch/hub issue... I hope this helps or gives a sense of direction...
@@sapsaz7102 so I haven't fixed my problem but I was looking at my fan clutch, tried spinning it but has no play, feels tight, does that have any indications of being a bad fan clutch?
@@maximusilive4theking986 I am so sorry for the late response. Here is a video that kind of explains how an electric over viscous fluid fan clutch works. ua-cam.com/video/tCRNjvD_KVc/v-deo.html Im not suggesting to convert to a 7.3 (eliminating the electronic one) as a check engine light on all the time is not a good way to go... But if you buy a quality Motorcraft one online, whether from Tasca autoparts, or amazon, or another online dealer. Make sure it would be a Motorcraft as there is a huge issue with quality of parts in these days. I understand Motorcraft can and sometimes fail but I have found these trucks "Do Not Like" aftermarket parts. Please let me know how it turns out 😊
Good job on the diag! Keep it up!
Thanks!
Mine started getting pretty hot, but only on my new camper pull. I wasn't even in the throttle. Found loose cap, but replaced w/new and almost made the top of the hill (75% improvement) on 2nd pull. Replaced under spec coolant with new and new thermostat. Will report back with 3rd pull results soon.
Thanks for sharing
Why the PCM didn't turn FAN on highest RPMs if coolant temp was 240 f ?? Where is the coolant sensor positioned anyway?
I have a 2005 F-250 6.0 with 242k miles. My issue is that COPIOUS amounts of air are coming from somewhere and pressurizing my degas bottle / cooling system. The truck has been EGR deleted. The bubbles have been multiple chemical tested and are NOT exhaust gasses. There are no leaks in the cooling system. I must secure the degas bottle cap semi- loose so all these air bubbles can vent while driving. My oil and coolant are pristine and the tailpipe exhaust is colorless even at startup. The truck runs at 190 degrees and never overheats even when towing and requires very little oil / coolant replacement. The truck has been doing this since I bought it in 2022. The truck runs and tows to spec with 18 mpg. Where are all these bubbles coming from??????
Compared to my 06 this truck seems like it’s idling a little rough. How long ago was the oil and filter changed? What oil and viscosity did he use? Did they use the long filter with that tall oil cap you changed out, or was it bypassing with the short filter?
To be honest... It's been almost 2 years since I saw this truck... If my memory serves me, at the time he told me the oil was recently changed but it has the wrong oil filter set up... So we just did the FL2016 oil filter, and a new Motorcraft cap. ... I don't think I looked at his injector patterns...
My truck is doing the same thing like even at idle temp hand goes up I was already think it was thermostat or water pump
You could carefully try touching the upper radiator hose, and compare it to the lower radiator hose after the temp is up... Again be extremely carefully touching them as the lower hose may be really hot. If the upper is not hot, but the lower is... Your blockage would be your thermostat. Not common to have a water pump impeller break/fail on these engines. The failure of the thermostat could either be stuck closed or broke... Don't go with affordable (cheap), I recommend just put a Motorcraft back in, if it is a thermostat failure. While your there if you haven't already, replace your degas bottle cap (radiator cap), a stant brand or Motorcraft cap would be fine. It is common for these trucks to eat these caps for some reason. You wouldn't know if the cap was not holding pressure unless you tested it. Did you find your issue? Feel free to let us know, as I always like to know when faults are found and fixed☺️ Thank you for your comment....
106 outside temp stuck in traffic temp started going up, turned off the AC and it settled but stayed Above normal temp, when I started moving the temp went back to normal but as soon as i hit the steep hill it started going up again but made it home, recently i had a light for egr p0404 I believe, swapped the egr and has been driving fine till this happen, any ideas?
How does your a/c feel when it's ideling at a stop? Does it seem like your a/c doesn't feel like it normally does? What your describing... Seems like an air flow issue. " When you start moving", temp drops back down. I would start looking into your fan hub. I would assume all your fan shrouds is still intact and not broken up, correct?
@@sapsaz7102 AC seemed fine but could be wasn't paying much attention, I did notice lack of power or acceleration or even boost issue while it was doing all of this, before this, at times at a complete stop truck would hesitate then it would boost and drive fine, finally i got a code for an egr but maybe its a result of a bigger problem?
@@maximusilive4theking986 The EGR issue would be a separate issue from the overheating issue. I would look into possibly a fan clutch/hub issue... I hope this helps or gives a sense of direction...
@@sapsaz7102 so I haven't fixed my problem but I was looking at my fan clutch, tried spinning it but has no play, feels tight, does that have any indications of being a bad fan clutch?
@@maximusilive4theking986 I am so sorry for the late response. Here is a video that kind of explains how an electric over viscous fluid fan clutch works. ua-cam.com/video/tCRNjvD_KVc/v-deo.html Im not suggesting to convert to a 7.3 (eliminating the electronic one) as a check engine light on all the time is not a good way to go... But if you buy a quality Motorcraft one online, whether from Tasca autoparts, or amazon, or another online dealer. Make sure it would be a Motorcraft as there is a huge issue with quality of parts in these days. I understand Motorcraft can and sometimes fail but I have found these trucks "Do Not Like" aftermarket parts. Please let me know how it turns out 😊
Not the wright coolant,should be Ford gold VC13G not some pick stuff
Thanks for the comment. The coolant we've been using provides better protection against corrosion, and rust on these diesels. Have a wonderful day...
You will get hotter if your cooling system cannot hold 16 psi.
yes