I’ve been enjoying your products since the early ‘90’s, when I worked in the electronics industry. I still have many of my ‘vintage’ Parts-Express projects in use today. I may feature some on my channel soon. Thanks for innovating great new products!
I actually did this a few years ago when I finished my basement. I also used a low frequency exciter in a half wall as a sub-woofer. I've been listening to music in there for around 2 years and it still works great. I also did a few other things to make sure there is no rattling and drywall mud doesn't crack. I also was worried that the 3M tape would unstick over time or tear the paper off of the backside of the drywall so I mounted them differently so that they would be more likely to stay attached over time.
That's awesome Andy! Would you agree with me that it actually sounds terrific! If I were to do it again, I might do what I saw another UA-camr do, and put a small puddle of epoxy on the backside for the exciters to stick too. That looks to be very secure
@@consumertechcheck It surprised me the first time I tried them out and it sounded so good. I wasn't sure what to expect. When I installed them I tried searching to see if anyone had done it before and I couldn't find anything so I was just hoping it would sound good. I actually glued them to a small 1x and used drywall screws to suck the 1x to the drywall for better contact. The best part about them is that no matter where you are in the room, the sound is coming from right next to you and you don't have to have it very loud to hear it where ever you are.
@@andyk764 I agree, they sound unexpectedly good. And the cool factor is off the charts. I will put these inside every wall that I have to open. I likely won't open walls to install these, as it becomes far more costly then the exciters themselves. But if I have to open a wall for a repair... The wall is going to get some exciters. At that point, the cost is just the exciters. The results are terrific!
thanks for your honesty, and efforts!! two tips from an old drywaller...1. mount the drywall on RESILIENT CHANNELS. 2. attach drywall with adhesive, using a few screws till the adhesive sets. My reasoning: vastly-more movement is possible when there are no "hard point" attachments for the boards. That, instead of the usual board-on-stud* rigid attachments. That "should" allow a lower bass reproduction?!?!? * 1/2" drywall-on-METAL studs have much-more resilience, which is why they are the ONLY-kind used in separating walls within music recording studios (sometimes with added resilient channels, too). The "resilience" is what attenuates the sound between spaces, sure. But in the case of Exciter-mounted surfaces, I'd imagine that "resilience" would only INCREASE bass response/accuracy. Heyyy...remember the long-ago-gone Poly-Planar speakers from the '70s? They were expanded foam panels with what must have been the very-first model of "exciters", which were fused right into the panels. Another thought...those bathroom drywall panels are of a much-denser/different matrix than regular gypsum drywall. And there are even more-modern mixes now. All which would mean a vastly-different sound signature, I reckon 🙂
Yes… yes… yes A thousand times YES..! That is a brilliant idea. And a precious viewer has tried that and it worked wonderfully. The gentlest part about doing that is… you don’t need to open a wall then repair it, which was by far the most work and time required. Done in the attic, this could be a 1 hour install, and would be brilliant. For sure… give it a try and let me know!
Was just browsing around to see anything I could about distributed mode loudspeakers because I _feel_ like the way these things work would be best suited for specialized low and high frequency applications. Unfortunately, the majority of demonstrations and references I've come across until now use small panels that are usually made out of the same handful of materials. Thanks for the upload. You're awesome!
Thanks for the feedback. It was this primary thought that drove me to do the video... there just wasn't any out there using other materials at the time.
I'm curious how long the exciters will stick on their place. On the log run I expect the 3M stickers to loose their strength and eventually the exciters will drop. Only question is when?
That is a perfectly fair thought... and fear of mine. Realistically, if they did become unstuck... I wouldn't be surprised... SAD yes, but not surprised. Thankfully that are still holding strong. When I do this again, I will stick them in place using epoxy, ONLY because, from inside a wall, they are perfectly UN-serviceable.
Me too… that is why I did the video… I wanted to do it for years but never wanted to take the risks, hoping that someone would post the video to inform me of the viability of the project… it was that experience that motivated me to do the video. I hopes it helps and encourages others to do it…
Did you ever consider trying to only screw down the edges of the drywall, leaving the entire center not screwed down, thus giving you more radiating surface area that isn’t stifled by this screw contact points?
Looking to build some myself. I noticed many used the insulation foam and they rounded the corners. Made me think, those look similar to cheap foam kickboards. The already are shaped and some even have neat graphics. I've found many on clearance for as low as 2.50 each and now I'm considering a build myself.
What this project has reinforced for me is that it appears that just about any surface will make impressive sound. The good news is if it doesn’t work you can cut away the sticky tape bond and re-tape them to a new surface. I highly recommend 3M VHB tape. It is ideal for this scenario
I wonder and worry about that too. My fear is that they may crack the drywall, even though there has been no signs of this yet… more-so, I fear that they will shake themselves loose and fall off the wall, inside where I can’t get to them.
Why not... It would surely work... I'm not sure though if the high fidelity of the amp would be wasted on this though. This wall sounds great! but definitely not a reference system.
Damian, I will be mounting new drywall over this hole inside the next 10 days. I'll do another video then, following up. So far I can say it sounds unexpectedly good. with one realization. It certainly does require more power to move and make sound. I find myself turning the volume up more to get the results I'm looking for. Rest assured, i do find the results I'm looking for, just takes more power, which is understandable, and a bit expected. I am thankful I used multiple drivers to allow for that extra power. More to come..!
Don't tell my wife,,, I fully plan to put base shakers in the floor, in the same room so they work with the wall. I anticipate it will have great results. I will do a video covering that project soon.
Does anyone know or have an idea if this could be applied to a ceiling . It would be relatively easy to access but idk how much it would affect sound quality.
I've come to the same conclusion and that's why I'm here. My understanding is that drywall won't actually actuate because it's made out of calcite. Apparently I'm wrong. Rocks is rocks
lmao 2 exciters on drywall fastened to studs 16" oc. Pretty sure it's gonna sound like absolute garbage as the resonant frequency of the entire wall structure combined with the amplitude you'd need to hit it... likely not gonna happen. Imagine if it did work though.. how cool would that be.
I struggle with the idea that sound doesn’t translate well over UA-cam, as most people watch it on a cell phone or a laptop, both with lousy speakers. So ‘hearing’ the wall on UA-cam would be in no way… accurate, at all. This is why I never demonstrate that. With that said; this has been by far the most common form of feedback. This is why I will do a follow up video demonstrating the sound of the wall.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Sounds great! Glad you enjoy them and thank you for choosing our products!!
I’ve been enjoying your products since the early ‘90’s, when I worked in the electronics industry. I still have many of my ‘vintage’ Parts-Express projects in use today. I may feature some on my channel soon. Thanks for innovating great new products!
I actually did this a few years ago when I finished my basement. I also used a low frequency exciter in a half wall as a sub-woofer. I've been listening to music in there for around 2 years and it still works great. I also did a few other things to make sure there is no rattling and drywall mud doesn't crack. I also was worried that the 3M tape would unstick over time or tear the paper off of the backside of the drywall so I mounted them differently so that they would be more likely to stay attached over time.
That's awesome Andy! Would you agree with me that it actually sounds terrific! If I were to do it again, I might do what I saw another UA-camr do, and put a small puddle of epoxy on the backside for the exciters to stick too. That looks to be very secure
@@consumertechcheck It surprised me the first time I tried them out and it sounded so good. I wasn't sure what to expect. When I installed them I tried searching to see if anyone had done it before and I couldn't find anything so I was just hoping it would sound good. I actually glued them to a small 1x and used drywall screws to suck the 1x to the drywall for better contact. The best part about them is that no matter where you are in the room, the sound is coming from right next to you and you don't have to have it very loud to hear it where ever you are.
@@andyk764 I agree, they sound unexpectedly good. And the cool factor is off the charts. I will put these inside every wall that I have to open. I likely won't open walls to install these, as it becomes far more costly then the exciters themselves. But if I have to open a wall for a repair... The wall is going to get some exciters. At that point, the cost is just the exciters. The results are terrific!
thanks for your honesty, and efforts!! two tips from an old drywaller...1. mount the drywall on RESILIENT CHANNELS. 2. attach drywall with adhesive, using a few screws till the adhesive sets. My reasoning: vastly-more movement is possible when there are no "hard point" attachments for the boards. That, instead of the usual board-on-stud* rigid attachments. That "should" allow a lower bass reproduction?!?!? * 1/2" drywall-on-METAL studs have much-more resilience, which is why they are the ONLY-kind used in separating walls within music recording studios (sometimes with added resilient channels, too). The "resilience" is what attenuates the sound between spaces, sure. But in the case of Exciter-mounted surfaces, I'd imagine that "resilience" would only INCREASE bass response/accuracy. Heyyy...remember the long-ago-gone Poly-Planar speakers from the '70s? They were expanded foam panels with what must have been the very-first model of "exciters", which were fused right into the panels. Another thought...those bathroom drywall panels are of a much-denser/different matrix than regular gypsum drywall. And there are even more-modern mixes now. All which would mean a vastly-different sound signature, I reckon 🙂
That is great advise..!
I highly anticipate I will do another wall… I may do exactly as you recommend.
Thank you!
Wondering if these could be placed in the attic making the ceiling a spkr without any drywall repair. 🤔
Yes… yes… yes
A thousand times YES..!
That is a brilliant idea. And a precious viewer has tried that and it worked wonderfully.
The gentlest part about doing that is… you don’t need to open a wall then repair it, which was by far the most work and time required.
Done in the attic, this could be a 1 hour install, and would be brilliant.
For sure… give it a try and let me know!
Was just browsing around to see anything I could about distributed mode loudspeakers because I _feel_ like the way these things work would be best suited for specialized low and high frequency applications. Unfortunately, the majority of demonstrations and references I've come across until now use small panels that are usually made out of the same handful of materials.
Thanks for the upload. You're awesome!
Thanks for the feedback. It was this primary thought that drove me to do the video... there just wasn't any out there using other materials at the time.
The vibe out at 10:11 got my like.
Makes sense for rear speakers or roof atmos speakers.
I'm curious how long the exciters will stick on their place. On the log run I expect the 3M stickers to loose their strength and eventually the exciters will drop. Only question is when?
That is a perfectly fair thought... and fear of mine. Realistically, if they did become unstuck... I wouldn't be surprised... SAD yes, but not surprised. Thankfully that are still holding strong. When I do this again, I will stick them in place using epoxy, ONLY because, from inside a wall, they are perfectly UN-serviceable.
Thanks man, i ve been searching internet for this review
Me too… that is why I did the video… I wanted to do it for years but never wanted to take the risks, hoping that someone would post the video to inform me of the viability of the project… it was that experience that motivated me to do the video. I hopes it helps and encourages others to do it…
Did you ever consider trying to only screw down the edges of the drywall, leaving the entire center not screwed down, thus giving you more radiating surface area that isn’t stifled by this screw contact points?
great, thanks. So how would I know which is the positive pole on it?
You have to look closely to see it, but the manufacturer put a blotch of ink on one terminal, likely using a felt. but it is there.
@@consumertechcheck thanks
Looking to build some myself. I noticed many used the insulation foam and they rounded the corners. Made me think, those look similar to cheap foam kickboards. The already are shaped and some even have neat graphics. I've found many on clearance for as low as 2.50 each and now I'm considering a build myself.
What this project has reinforced for me is that it appears that just about any surface will make impressive sound. The good news is if it doesn’t work you can cut away the sticky tape bond and re-tape them to a new surface. I highly recommend 3M VHB tape. It is ideal for this scenario
So .... I'm wondering if the drywall do not suffers any damage due the vibrations over time? Like starts crumbling it down bit by bit.
There has been no signs of breakdown at all. And we use the WALL a lot. I have to admit I was sort of fearful that there would be some damage .
I wonder how well they last over time. I also wonder about the damage they would "cause" as they shake over time.
I wonder and worry about that too. My fear is that they may crack the drywall, even though there has been no signs of this yet… more-so, I fear that they will shake themselves loose and fall off the wall, inside where I can’t get to them.
I don't know if using a 30W class A amplifier would be okay?
Why not... It would surely work... I'm not sure though if the high fidelity of the amp would be wasted on this though. This wall sounds great! but definitely not a reference system.
Was just looking for this. Please let us know how it sounds.
Damian, I will be mounting new drywall over this hole inside the next 10 days. I'll do another video then, following up. So far I can say it sounds unexpectedly good. with one realization. It certainly does require more power to move and make sound. I find myself turning the volume up more to get the results I'm looking for. Rest assured, i do find the results I'm looking for, just takes more power, which is understandable, and a bit expected. I am thankful I used multiple drivers to allow for that extra power. More to come..!
You should try putting some bass shakers in to see if they improve the bass response!
Don't tell my wife,,, I fully plan to put base shakers in the floor, in the same room so they work with the wall. I anticipate it will have great results. I will do a video covering that project soon.
@@consumertechcheck awesome!
What about using 1/4” drywall only on the particular bay or bays the speakers are on for more flexibility? Just a thought!
That is a great idea..!
I suspect that would improve the sound, or at least the efficiency.
@@consumertechcheck 👊🏼
Does anyone know or have an idea if this could be applied to a ceiling . It would be relatively easy to access but idk how much it would affect sound quality.
I've come to the same conclusion and that's why I'm here. My understanding is that drywall won't actually actuate because it's made out of calcite. Apparently I'm wrong. Rocks is rocks
How many videos can one make before actually showing results.
What was the name of the song? I couldn’t find it.
MSE makes brackets for their SolidDrive model. May be able to replicate for other styles and/or manufacturers.
ua-cam.com/video/7jerTHpZ5Yw/v-deo.html
lmao 2 exciters on drywall fastened to studs 16" oc. Pretty sure it's gonna sound like absolute garbage as the resonant frequency of the entire wall structure combined with the amplitude you'd need to hit it... likely not gonna happen. Imagine if it did work though.. how cool would that be.
KUWELL
So, it was just 15 minutes of you jibber jabbering, no results or demonstrations?
I struggle with the idea that sound doesn’t translate well over UA-cam, as most people watch it on a cell phone or a laptop, both with lousy speakers. So ‘hearing’ the wall on UA-cam would be in no way… accurate, at all. This is why I never demonstrate that. With that said; this has been by far the most common form of feedback. This is why I will do a follow up video demonstrating the sound of the wall.
689 Domenic Brooks
Video Demo Starts @ 9:45 xD
If you want to show something, do not shake your hands.
🤣👈🏻