Відео

With that said... Damn it sure is BEAUTIFUL..!

Now… there’s an idea… suddenly my plans for the day have changed..!

@consumertechcheck 🤣🤣🤣🤣

For the sake of offering a better option... What do you propose is better advice to cool your amplifiers? Sincere question? I have an in-depth video series coming which will include many other options to cooling amplifiers, which include some passive options, taller feet, adding mass, and heat sinks, etc. It sounds like you have some great options I'd like to cover in that series. Please do share your ideas? And YES... Thanks for the click! Don't forget to subscribe! I'm not being a smart ass... I am sincerely looking for great ideas that I can share with others, your feedback is valuable!

Thanks for the feedback. I did drop my mic level in this video far lower than usual. Thinking that I wanted the music louder for sure. But after hearing it myself I tend to agree.

I agree, it’s a great amplifier. And yes… they added a bit to many tricks that are unnecessary…. It’s great without these extras. But still great with them to… just not always needed (depending on your setup).

@@consumertechcheck I would never use the sub features. So that's pretty much a waste with me. I've been noticing lately that all these new amps almost always have something they got wrong... I'm actually thinking about creating the "Smart" awards to give their confusing choices a nice prize... ua-cam.com/video/ox-NkyEFTmo/v-deo.htmlsi=K4VhAZMUis1lzvZt

Seriously, if the A70 mono was as simple (on the outside) as the V3 mono; with no extra switches and knobs, it would highlight how good it is even more so

@@consumertechcheck I agree. "Feature Loading" doesn't really sell products. Basic and purposeful design is far more attractive.

I too was impressed with the LME49720NA, and of course the SS3602 are wondeful!

That's the nicest thing I've heard all day..! Thank you. I've got more content just like this coming....

I did not do any measurements myself

Your best resource for that is the chip's data sheets. For example: do a search for "JRC4558 Data Sheet" ... most chips are online this way.

I would tend to think, like anything on eBay… if the seller has a good rating you are probably OK… Is it a concern for counterfeit chips?

@@consumertechcheck E-Bay has been a source of counterfeit chips in the past. And there's no way to be sure without test measurements.

Thank you. I have more op amps coming ( at least three more models) so there will be more videos coming.

Thanks to your advice, I am the proud owner of 40 JRC4558, and like you, they have become my default replacement. They are so inexpensive, I consider them as good as free. So I’m happy to use them everywhere. And yes, the price difference does add challenges to anything you hear… With that said: I’m very happy with the results of the recording, but I do still wonder if recording o to an Apple device caused any data compression there at all. I don’t k ow enough about that to confirm.

@@consumertechcheck The only way to avoid compression (either dynamic range or file size) is to record to WAV files using raw PCM data ... Bit Perfect recording. So depending on the storage format you may have some compression. But I wouldn't be too worried about it. YT's distribution format probably mangles the sound far more than you ever will. I found the quality adequate for a simple comparison test and the steps you took to remove speakers, microphones, room, etc. from the recording helped quite a bit. It would not stand up under instrument analysis, but that's not the point, we're looking for audible differences, not technical ones.

Thanks for the feedback and advice. Should I stick with this method when the Bursons, and the Staccatos arrive?

@@consumertechcheck Yes ... to make the comparison as fair as possible.

LM4562 is another good choice as well. $1.11 @ 10 QTY only

I would love to put this DAC head to head with a DAC of similar value that has the AKM4493S. Is there a specific model you’d recommend for that comparison? I’d love to do that video.

I am planning a follow up video where I swap out 4 different op amps (or more) and sound tests to go along with it. Sincerely: what measurements would you like to see? I’m open to doing this the best way possible.

Tell me more about why this makes a difference?

I must know more..! I will be doing a follow up video where I will be comparing other op amps. Perhaps I should do that then. Can you make a recommendation as to exactly which one, and which type? Can you explain why? I’d love to learn more; as would the viewers.

@@consumertechcheck Audiophile fuse benefits: 1. Upgraded caps enhance conductivity and reduce resistance compared to nickel or tin plated fuses 2. Ceramic cases reduce micro-arcing and resonance and have better EMI shielding compared to glass fuses 3. Damping filler quenches arcs during fuse operation and reduces micro-vibrations in the electrical current compared to non-filled fuses. Caveat: SQ benefits will be generally less than upgrading opamps. Also the overall hifi system must have achieved a certain level of fidelity to be able to hear the benefits. Best one in the market is probably Furutech TF Series Audio Fuse. For nearly as good performance at a lower price there is Telos QBT-18.

@@consumertechcheck Also: Ensure you use a fuse with the same specifications (including voltage rating) as the fuse it is replacing, to maintain the device's safety and proper functionality.

Full disclosures: YES AQARA did send me the M3 Hub for review but did NOT pay me for my opinion, or for the video. I thank them for their support of the channel and I am happy to promote products I’m passionate about. Yes, that includes the M3… it’s very powerful!

I had the same thought for sure… no question; the frequency range is so narrow and the acoustics detail and nuance is most noticeable by the human ear higher up the frequency range. I must admit… if it was my money, I likely would not do this upgrade below 100hz… these were sent to me by Sparkos themselves… thanks again Sparkos…! I love them!

Ohhh, I like where this is going …. Now there is a great idea..!!!

@Jazzboy, Thank you for the great offer... You clearly have done this demo properly.., and I would love to do demos like that. I will email you directly.

@consumertechcheck thanks for the email and look forward to meeting you.😁

Great feedback… I’m glad you got it all together. I did notice that they included one set of screws twice in two different lengths; depending on how thick your door is. So you only need one set of those. But yes… I did skim over those finer details and there would be great benefit to detailing that closer. Thanks for the feedback!

By my observation and limited use, I'm going to say "NO" this tool will not chisel out the the spot in the door "FRAME" unfortunately...

Thanks !

Thanks for watching… and clearly paying attention as well… that’s awesome. Yes… it can be both… and it often is in life… The point remains: I don’t have two matching, high quality microphones to record in stereo. This is why I included 4 links to FOSI Audio’s videos where you can hear these op amps head to head with IC models. So you can hear these op differences for yourself. The links are in the description… check 'em out!

@@consumertechcheck Haha yes, it can be both. But it isn't. If the youtube compression is a dealbreaker, then there's no point of listening to the FOSI comparisons. So either the youtube compression is real and thus FOSI is dumb for even trying, or you made it up or are genuinely mistaken. Then the stereo mic excuse is also just an excuse. Yes, you can't capture soundstage that way, but the clear upgrades in dynamics and clarity should be obvious in mono, as well as obvious for people who only have one functioning ear anyways. If you said that you didn't want to do it because it's too much effort, fine. But don't say I'm splitting hairs if you are literally promoting products based on the tiniest difference in frequency response or gain level. Btw, the FOSI examples clearly differ in level, that alone should disqualify it as a comparison.

Instinctively I tend to agree with you on this point. I can confirm UA-cam does use compression and this can impact the subtilties and nuances (just like matching levels from video to video)... and because of this I generally don't invest too must time or effort listening to UA-cam A/B comparisons myself. So Yes, I kind of agree, producing or listening to A/B comparisons may not illustrate the differences you hope for. However you very powerfully make my counter point... people are passionately eager to experience A/B comparisons, and I understand this perspective too. Thanks again for watching!

@@johnverbeek7156 I encourage you to visit the Virtual HiFi channel-where Grzegorz has several videos doing comparisons of different op amps-but in Fosi amps- though he may have one with the ZD3 as well. He has one where he tests a whole bunch of Op amps. He uses high-quality microphones and hi quality speakers in a nice room- and does the testing with exactly the same equipment only changing the op amps. People routinely say there’s a problem with youtube compression so I think linked on his channel he has a way to download files if you really want to listen to comparison without youtube compression. He also points out in one episode that listening via UA-cam on your computer yields much better sound than the UA-cam app on mobile devices - I don’t know much about how this works, but that claim is made. Again, I think his work is mostly with amps rather than DACs. And he’s also made his own Op amps basically just paralleling IC op amps rather than making discrete designs. There are issues to delve into here- paralleled circuits use much more current and throw much more heat… These particular sparkos are pretty widely touted by the audio community-the ss3602 are “dual” - paralleled , vs the ss3601 which are single. Some IC op amps are also supposed to be dual like the muses02 I believe.

@@consumertechcheck I don’t think it’s valid to say that discrete op amps as a whole are super high-quality and integrated chips are like a Toyota. You can make cheap low quality discreet amps, and you can make high-quality integrated circuit op amps. Among high-quality discrete op amps - there are those that are designed to the max like the large Sparkos 2590 in which compromises that allow space savings are discarded and the SS 3602 which are designed with quality in mind, but where space savings prevents certain optimizations they make in the 2590. The 2590 is single op amp that can be doubled (paralleled), whereas the SS 3602 is already a dual op amp that can be bought in the single version SS 3601. The 3602 will fit in Fosi products-I don’t think the 2590 is small enough to fit. Reviewers have said the 2590 is significantly better than the ss3602 in the Geshelli DACs that have enough space to fit them… P.s. I put muses02 op amps into the Fosi V3 monos and I liked them. But about a month later one of the V3 amps died-they are sending me a new board. Checking on reviews of the V3s this is pretty common. Im not sure if it’s what I did or if it would happen anyway-I see comments from both situations among the reviews (yes I bought hi quality thermal paste and replaced it when I did the mod-this is actually the biggest pain with these-the board slides in but the heat sink has to be pasted and it slides across the bottom of the chassis when beiNg reinstalled). The bottom line is the V3 monos sound good but are under designed regarding heat dissipation, particularly if you are using 48V power supplies. One commenter all over UA-cam continuously make the point these should be used with 36v power supplies-unfortunately Fosi only offers 32v which seem underpowered, and 48v which seem to be too much. Aiyima offers 36v-but I wish I could just buy a 40v linear (non-switch mode) supply for these with a connector I could just plug in, rather than having to do modifications myself…

Yes, the 4580 is a great upgrade over the stock op amps. @Douglas_blake feels strongly about that… Douglas, please share your wisdom on the matter…

@Douglas_Blake writes on his Blog the following about the NE5532: The standard chips are NE5532 dual low noise op-amps. Unfortunately these are one of the most frequently counterfeited chips. It is not uncommon to find re-branded "something else" chips when doing service or examination work. So, I've taken to just replacing them with RC4558 chips wherever I find them. There is no appreciable difference in performance or sound between the real 5532 chip and the 4558 chip, so the goal in changing them is to ensure the amplifier is not going to fail because of a fake chip.

Thanks for sharing your experience. the SX52B's are something I should check out. I agree, the Fosi Audio ZD3 sounds great, straight from the factory!

@@consumertechcheck I'm tempted to buying one sparkos for the rca outs and trying it out

Great way to try them out while keeping the costs down… I suspect you’ll be buying more after that…

​@@consumertechcheck SX52B and SX45B are way better than the stock opamps.

The difference the sparkos made in every amp I’ve installed them in is unbelievable. I have now replaced three in the ZA3 and 2 in each V3 mono I have four left to replace and I keep replacing them whenever I have the money to spend.

That’s amazing… great catch… i suppose even though this was just a demo, I should have done that correctly, because you are right…. Someone might just do it that way, after following my instructions…. Oops!

The simple truth is: I have a humble home and I am a complete pack rat at heart. I would need to burn my house down and start over before I show parts of my house online… it’s embarrassing. I will likely green screen for some time still. For that reason. In fact in the earliest days of this channel… I didn’t even want to show my face. You just heard my voice and saw my hands, with the camera in a third person view. I’m working on it… thanks for the feedback… I couldn’t agree more… With that said: there was a one video (maybe more) where my green screen skill will fool you… try and find it.

Do you mean in regards to the rom behind me..? Believe it if not… that is a real room in a real house… not my house… and YES that is on a green screen…. But that room is a real place… o only wish my place was that nice. Someday maybe. But it would never be that tidy… unfortunately I’m a complete slob…

Stellar feedback… thanks for the input..! I appreciate you sharing your wisdom on the issue.

I hope you don't mind a bit of a rebuttal.... You're 90% correct except on a couple of secondary points. Yeah... nothing bothers me more than reviewers who don't test stuff. They just hook it up , listen for a bit then write their review script. I ran smack into this with the SMSL Su1 and d1000 ... both got rave reviews but also disabled the windows volume controls, making them utterly useless for my purposes. Now if the reviewers had tested ALL the inputs and mentioned it, they would have saved me a dozen returns and a fair chunk of money. Anyway... on to my nits. 1) The speaker efficiency thing is a bit off. Cut the V3Mono or the A70Mono (Aiyima) loose on a pair of nice living room tower speakers ... Most average around 6 ohms but can dip to 3, plus you will want some headroom for movie effects and loud drum solos. You'll understand the value of monoblocks immediately. It really is quite the experience. (Small amps does not imply small speakers.) 2) Yes there's a fair bit of electrical noise inside a computer. However the USB port protocols do work on differential signalling which effectively gets rid of noise on the digital inputs to the DAC. It was a problem years ago... not so much now. 3) The new wave of tiny computers is a very good choice for a host machine. I use Intel NUCs (as long as they're available) from there I'll find a decent quality replacement in the same form factor. Stuff in a 4tb M2 storage stick and you're off to the races. Thanks for your input.

I too had to install the driver for the ZD3, however for me it was automatic. So I was quite bewildered when this wouldn’t work for the first three minutes… but then a pop up came in the screen saying that the drivers had installed and was now ready to use… then BINGO it worked as shown. As for your file explorer… I have no idea. I’ll reconnect mine to the same PC and see if that happens for me too… Weird.

@ thanks for confirming. My gut tells me the issue with my File Explorer predates the driver installation, but not 109% sure.

Okay... you should not have to install or allow a custom driver on most OSs. I see you're using windows 10 ... UAC2 compliance was not added to windows until revision 1703 ... before that it was UAC1 compliant only so those versions will require a 3rd party driver. No matter the version UAC1 is still the default. The UAC2 drivers take a little bit to install the first time, since it has to disable the older UAC1 driver first. But this should be a one time event and it should be fine from there. Check in your device manager, Sound Video and Game Controllers and see who published the drivers ... It should be Microsoft and the driver details should contain USBAUDIO2.SYS. But in any event... if it's working, it's working. Happy listening.

@@Douglas_Blake thanks for the info, I’ll look into it as you suggested! FYI with the Fosi driver my speakers show up as Fosi speakers in the windows volume control.

@@superspeeder That's just a text string extracted from the DAC during startup. Where you need to look is in _Control Panel > Device Manager > Sound video and game controllers > Fosi > Driver ..._ look who provided the drivers. It should say Microsoft. Then in _Driver Details_ ... look for USBAUDIO2.SYS (Cringe.... do you think they buried it deep enough?) It is not wrong to have a third party driver listed here. But in my experience the ones commonly used with these Chinese DACs tend to be less stable than the default drivers from Microsoft and may need frequent updating.

I’m looking forward to the A80, which is not available in Canada yet. But soon…

@@consumertechcheck Yeah, that one got my attention too. Right away I notice there's no HDMI-ARC and the TRS balanced inputs are gonna cause a lot of confusion. But I can see it working nicely as a power amp in a more complex setup.

I can’t deny… I love this thing, and I hope it shows. So yes, if that makes it a commercial; that makes me happy. The purpose of this channel is to promote devices I’m sure excited about, and to give a heads up on devices that I’m not. Plus, I like to believe that channels like mine do have an influence on the manufactures next move as far as product development goes. So I want to praise them when they get it right and gently encourage them to add a missing feature for instance. Yes… FOSI Audio got this one right…. And I’m happy it shows. The fact that this seems “like a commercial” is a compliment… thank you for that. If you look closely in the commercial; you’ll see that I did in fact turn the device on. That’s my favorite part… oh… plus the sound! Thanks for watching!

@@consumertechcheck FINE, BUT YOU SHOULD AT LEAST INDICATE THAT YOU ARE DOING A PROMOTIONAL VIDEO. JUST LIKE YOU HAVE DONE PROMOTIONAL VIDEOS FOR BRAND AQARA.

@@sauleomarova7730 1) TURN OFF YOUR EFFING CAPS LOCK! 2) Yes it's a commercial. All reviews are... regardless of the product. Most people figure that out in the first 30 or so seconds... but apparently you didn't get the memo.

Like I said: this guy has oceans of knowledge and wisdom…

Awesome... I'm happy to have answered this great question..! Keep them coming!

@@consumertechcheck LOL ... count on it! 👍

I was afraid to add noise to a HiFi setup, the entire point of HiFi is to improve sound… I get it… with that said: I am shocked how quiet these really are.

Thanks for sticking with it for 7 minutes. The truth clearly is: I babble… it’s a hard habit to break, this is why I script most videos. I didn’t script this one, because I wanted my reaction to be authentic as I discovered the tool live in camera. I knew in advance that means it would make the video longer then needed; but I wanted it to be authentic. Trust me… I will continue to script most videos for this reason.

Great question. I too had the same question when I first discovered this feature in another piece originally. In this case, you would plug all your HDMI sources into your television, and connect the HDMI ARC (output) on your TV, into the HDMI ARC input on this device. That way, what ever HDMI source your TV is connected to, has the sound come out of this… it’s a brilliant way to do things and actually simplifies connections and switching.

@@consumertechcheck Plus, when it is fully implemented, you can also control the amplifier's volume and turn it on and off from the TV remote control.

THIS IS A COMMERCIAL FOR THE GADGET! I DOUBT THIS GUY EVER EVEN TUNED ON THE DAMN THING.. PATHETIC!

@@sauleomarova7730 good looking out

Um. The HDMI is literally why I bought it, and why I haven’t already decided on a higher quality more expensive piece. I can run my TV off it for pretty good sound and the volume control on the Tv remote or Apple TV remote works on the ZD3!-that’s huge!

I will give that a try! Thanks for the feedback… and the idea!

@@consumertechcheck Compatibility is becoming a real issue with some of this stuff. I first ran into it with a SU-1 DAC about a year ago. Since then I've found more and more stuff that just doesn't play well with others. Until just recently this was not an issue. It seems to have gone downhill since MS adopted UAC2 drivers for Windows 10, 1803 and newer OSs. Similar issues have been noted with HDMI-ARC setups where the audio is transferred but the TV can't control the DAC/Amp. The problem is basic... The "Master Volume" control the onscreen and keyboard volume buttons manage is actually in the DAC itself. It is controlled by digital signalling over the USB link. If that doesn't work, you get what I described above. FWIW... my main system and the ones I build for friends and their friends are HTPC driven, using large volume M2 drives. For example: my current demo system is an Intel NUC with 4tb M2 drive installed, it's home to over 6,000 songs and 1,200 movies and the end user can also install streaming apps from Netflix, Spotify and more... all of which are managed by a Logitek wireless keyboard. If the keyboard is unable to manage the volume, the only other option is to control it using the physical knob on the pre-amp or amplifier, which means that "mad dive for the volume control" we all hate so much. Let me know how you make out.... Thanks.

Thank you @Douglas_Blake for your great ideas and questions: here is video proof that the ZD3 IS compliant and works perfectly... Does this answer the question like I think you mean? ua-cam.com/video/ErxB-0UnteA/v-deo.html

​@@Douglas_Blake I've noticed music apps also cause the issue you are talking about "force volume" is the setting. Issue is after an update this can be re checked, I've ran into the same thing and have the same DAC.

I'm glad you like it!

You deserve it. Go Get one.

Thanks for the feedback… I sincerely was shocked at how well it worked… I got the results I was looking for…and required zero skill…

You got me... I could have been a bit more focused there.

That’s the French in me…

All good tips… thanks

All good tips… thanks

If you want/need/love that feature as much as I do…. And want that benefit in each room…. Yes. For me, most of my IR devices are home theater centred and therefore I only need one device in my living room. But I. Ant ignore the reality, I could benefit in other rooms too… perhaps I might… thanks for the great idea!

@ is there a way to connect IR repeaters to this? I would need multiple as media devices are in a media closet with cat 6 and hdmi running through walls to the tv destinations

Great question. I should have shown that. But I suppose the reason why is... There is NOTHING from the inside. No lock mechanism. BECAUSE the door AUTO LOCKS every time you close the door, and requires a fingerprint, pass-code, or another unlock option from the outside. From the INSIDE, you just twist the handle and leave. WITH THAT SAID: There is the button on the top (inside) that you press to deactivate the auto lock function. with this pressed, the door will never lock until you press it again, this allows you to come and go without needing to unlock the door from the outside to come in.. Does that answer your question? I can be more specific if I am off base here.

@consumertechcheck I actually helped a lot thank you that's the first and only explanation I have received because I was wondering if someone comes over how do you open the door or say groceries are being brought in or for whatever reason the door is going to be left open for a while or answered multiple times what does the homeowner do I appreciate you and you're very quick response

No it does not. It’s an on/off switch and not a dimmer. It uses a relay to control the load which is good for control loads like fans as well. If you want to adjust brightness on the bulb you should use a dimmer product with a standard bulb (not smart bulb).

What he said.... Thank you @misteraon...

Great question. As far as I know: The SwitchBot Curtain 3 operates primarily via Bluetooth and can integrate with other systems through the SwitchBot Hub 2, which enables Matter support. In contrast, the Aqara Hub M3 functions as a multi-protocol hub supporting Zigbee, Thread, and Matter, but it does not natively support Bluetooth devices like the SwitchBot Curtain 3.  To connect your SwitchBot Curtain 3 to the Aqara Hub M3, you would need to utilize Matter, a universal smart home standard that facilitates interoperability between devices from different manufacturers. However, this integration requires that both devices support Matter over a common protocol, such as Thread or Wi-Fi. The SwitchBot Curtain 3, when paired with the SwitchBot Hub 2, can support Matter over Wi-Fi. The Aqara Hub M3 also supports Matter and can act as a Matter controller.  Despite this, direct integration between the SwitchBot Curtain 3 and the Aqara Hub M3 via Matter may not be straightforward due to potential compatibility issues and the need for both devices to be on the same Matter network. Additionally, certain features may not be fully supported across different ecosystems. Therefore, to control your SwitchBot Curtain 3, it’s recommended to use the SwitchBot Hub 2, which facilitates integration with various smart home platforms, including those compatible with Matter. This setup will provide more reliable control and access to the full range of features offered by SwitchBot devices.  In summary, while both the SwitchBot Curtain 3 (with SwitchBot Hub 2) and the Aqara Hub M3 support Matter, direct integration between them is not guaranteed and may not provide full functionality. Utilizing the SwitchBot Hub 2 is the most effective way to control your SwitchBot Curtain 3 within your smart home setup.

Yes, the Douk and the Fosi are certainly similar. The Douk, as you may know is a little larger in size. Which may fit the cosmetics of some racks.

That is exactly the idea... and it looks super cool too..!

Yes a vanity device, like the fake room in the background.

It is also a speaker switcher AND an amplifier switcher. You can connect two pairs of speakers AND two separate amplifiers, and switch between any combination of them using the controls on the front face or the remote control.

I admit... I wanted this primarily for the LOOK of it... It LOOKS Cool! I admit to the vanity... I love it!

A great tool in a home studio . Switching between amps and speakers can be very useful, for hearing the mix in different environments, or comparing guitar and monitor setups. I build speakers, so being able to do various A/B comparisons is desirable. As regards vanity - some people are proud of being humble ! 😉

You get a giant orange knob too!

Am I the "Giant orange knob" in this scenario?!? No offence taken...

@@consumertechcheck ha ha :)