Відео

Yes… it is unusually diverse… thanks for checking out my content… it is called “Consumer Tech Check” for this reason… I check out - Consumer Tech… even a fridge, as odd as that seems. But yes, my typical area of interest is HiFi and Smart Homes.

Great question. Yes, you most likely can add a Sonoff Zigbee device to the Aqara M3 Hub. If your Sonoff device supports Zigbee and is compatible with the Matter standard, it should work seamlessly with the hub. Just make sure to follow the setup instructions in the Aqara app to add it. With that said: I do not have a Sonoff device and haven't tested that... yet.

So far I've tried to add the Sonoff MINIR4M and it works fine with the M3 hub.

Awesome..! Thanks for the feedback…

That would be worth looking closer at..!

Very smart and simple solution!

@ the best part is that I found them in a thrift store for $5 each.

I too have the ZD3 DAC. I have paired it with both the V3monos and the ZA3 amp (1). There is no poor choice here. With that said, I have down graded my power supplies on my V3monos to reduce heat and improve stability. There is zero performance difference, other then when at full throttle… which I NEVER do… I think dual 36v power supplies may be the long term answer here. At least for me… they allow me to use my favourite amps without risking burning them up.

@ where did you source the 36V power supplies? Aiyima? I would love 40V -I think it would be the perfect balance. Significantly cooler with the 36V when you crank it?

Do you mean: upgrading the internal heat sink with a larger one..? That is a brilliant solution… an easy for for Fosi to implement moving forward… but no. I have thought of simply adding a heating to the outside of the case though. I will be dining a follow up video where I reapply paste to the current heat sink, also when I upgrade the op amps too.

@ yes-I meant a larger block to replace that oddly small bar that’s about as wide as the amp but only seemingly an inch or so deep. I don’t really consider it a “heat sink” so much as a “heat transfer bar” But if that entire small bar surface isn’t even covered with thermal paste-it’s not even acting as “big” as it is physically-that would explain why there have been so many reviews on the Fosi site with blown amps (usually one of a pair bought blows within 3 days)-Im thinking they are probably using cheap paste and daubing only a small blob rather than applying it evenly to the whole bar ( cheap assembly line job versus nice manual effort). It’s like having an 8 gauge copper wire but the connector is a 24 gauge strand🤣🤣. The other issue seems to be the 10 amp power supply with the splitter. Douglas pointed out there can be some sort of instability with that setup. So I got the individual supplies. But I like his point not everyone needs all the power available with 48V and maybe 40 V would be a nice idea to mitigate the heat with a modest diminution in power. The heat is the big issue with this amp, and almost everyone thinks better op amps make a difference. Everyone prefers either the Sparkos or the muses02. Heat sink to outer case: well this makes some sense but I think the big issue is the delivery of the heat from the chip to the case-if it isn’t delivered well to the case, it won’t make a difference if you attach a better sink on the case… or if you use fans for that matter-one of the reports was that the amp that blew had a case that was *colder* than the good one-this is because the heat wasn’t being delivered off the chip properly. We NEED the case to at least get hot if the chip is producing a ton of heat… once it is receiving the heat properly, then an external sink/fins/fan will help…

I have not had that problem at all with this one… it shipped to me very recently… I wonder if they ironed that out… looks like it here…

The A07Max volume know speaks to ease of use… but you are right… resetting the volume every time is annoying, particularly if your system is more complex.

Great feedback. I have not yet paired them with highly efficient speakers yet… I must do..!

@@consumertechcheck It's not just about efficiency (although it helps) it is about giving yourself the room filling experience that only comes from larger speakers. I use a pair of pioneer towers in my main system. They're not "king of the hill" speakers but with a couple of easy mods they do a pretty good job. I was like most of the reviewers, using the chi-amps on my desktop setup with teeny weeny little speakers.... until one day I needed an amp to test my main system... I hooked up an old SMSL A50 and oh boy was that an eye opening experience. The little amp totally blew me away. Today I use a modified A07 original in my main system. It displaced a Marantz amplifier in about 10 minutes of listening. Like I always say: "You don't know until you try it"

This is brilliant feedback..! I love it and will do every step you recommend. These amps are to good to just let self destruct… I didn’t get them to just throw away… Awesome feedback! Thank you..!

@@consumertechcheck You're welcome.

I run the 48v in much more demanding setup than speakers (running either shakers or DIY Hovereze subs) and have zero issues by just having a small fan from the left side pushing and on the right side pulling running at low speeds. The fan are big enough to do this for a couple of them stacked. That usage is WAY more demanding than your typical bookshelf as I am pushing very low frequencies down to single digits

@shaolin95 sounds like a great setup… I love it!

@Douglas_Blake_579, I have read your posts on many threads about these amplifiers- and I appreciate your comments. I decided to buy separate 48 V 5A power supplies, figuring this would be better than the single 10 amp supply with the issues you mentioned. I did not see any good 36 or 40 V supplies out there for cheap- I guess I could source them from Aiyima (36v). Just yesterday, I did some research into thermal paste and once again your comments are pretty golden - I did not know that they were skimping on the thermal paste which I will address when I replace the op amps. I like your suggestion about removing the color inserts which block airflow. Although I’m not too keen on turning them upside down and inverting the feet… will consider this if I notice in normal usage them getting overly hot- I did notice they got pretty hot playing them normally as it is- and maybe they will get hotter with better thermal paste, indicating improved heat transfer… I think I will investigate 36v or 40v power supplies before I decide to invert the units, although I have to say, I tend to be running them at higher volumes, so I’m going to assume that the larger power supplies will be much lower distortion at the volumes I am running. I am also considering using solid-state thermal conductive sheets - though those tend to be much more expensive than just buying high-quality paste and being liberal with it. I ordered the Noctua NT-H2 which is well-regarded and presumably better than the stock paste. I am avoiding the very highest thermal conductivity “Liquid Metal” pastes that are electrically conductive just to ensure I don’t fry these things due to some spillage on the board… I was wondering if the “heat sink” (metal bar) could be replaced with something larger or would this be pointless because it needs better design to radiate -so better coupling to the case, but also a case with more surface area such as a Fin-type design… basically I don’t think we should regard the metal bar under the amp chip as a “heat sink” so much as a heat transfer bus-so it’s not really an internal heater -but a heat conduit to the case, which is actual heat sink. So I do think a larger conduit with much better paste-interface (or solid state thermal couple sheet (such as made by Thermal Grizzly or Honeywell) would probably be helpful…

I couldn’t agree more… I will for sure, next time.

Where is that coming from?!? Who said that?’!?

Thank you!

?actual fires? Now that’s concerning…! Damn… by default, I am paranoid about fires… now I won’t be able to sleep; thinking about this.

They both sound terrific for their price… a shocking value. But the A07max does sound better… you can hear a difference.

Can I use a DAC and a phono preamp with aiyima a07 max?

@@barrywilliams606 Yes you can. I suggest you buy an inexpensive RCA switch box so you can flip the inputs at the push of a button. Flipping the cables all the time will eventually break something....

Take the opamps out of the original a07 and put in SparkoS. You're welcome.

They do use the same chip, you are correct. I have to suspect that the 48volt, 10amp power supply is a factor; feeding so much current through it makes a difference… plus in my case, in regular use, they are tucked away too tightly, and I have really starved them of air in there. In fact, while these amps have been out to shoot video, I substituted my A07max to pitch hit… they simply shut down on me when they got too warm. So I’m guessing my tight cabinet is a big reason why here. With that said, many other claim their v3monos run hot too.

@@consumertechcheck Aha ! I bet you're right , the 48 V power supply may be the chief issue

@@deviklovecraft3835 The amplifier is not going to draw 10 amps constantly. It will draw what it needs for a given loudness. Most of the time it will probably be using less than an amp of current, even at above-conversational levels. You could use a 48 volt 50 amp supply and this would still be true.

@@deviklovecraft3835 Yes it is... but not for the reasons most people envision. The problem is one of limiting heat production. The best way to do that is to simply turn the voltage down... it reduces the power somewhat and cuts the current significantly, which ends up producing less heat. Old technician wisdom: A heat sink in an enclosed area becomes a heater. This is why I generally recommend these mini-amps should be run on no more than 36 volts.

I certainly thought of that... and a great idea. Specifically in this case: in their normal rack space things are tight and the heat gets trapped in there, which magnifies the problem. This is why I preferred the idea of forced air... it is simply more aggressive. In fact. Since removing these amps from the rack to film this video, I put in another class-d amp in their place to keep the system running while I shot this video, and the upcoming feature of the V3Mono... The heat i the restricted rack caused that other amp to cut in and out intermittently... confirming that the aggression of forced air over passive fins may be the better choice in THIS setup. However, in a more open space, I would certainly try passive heat-sinks... Great IDEA, thanks foe suggesting it!

That is a perfectly fair thought... and fear of mine. Realistically, if they did become unstuck... I wouldn't be surprised... SAD yes, but not surprised. Thankfully that are still holding strong. When I do this again, I will stick them in place using epoxy, ONLY because, from inside a wall, they are perfectly UN-serviceable.

The epoxy is a brilliant idea. There is a good chance I am doing this project again… when I do… I will epoxy them in place for that very reason.

Thanks for the feedback… I’m glad I never tried 2ohm load on it. I too am thrilled with it. And yes… the hum is gone. It was just something with my initial setup.

Yes… yes… yes A thousand times YES..! That is a brilliant idea. And a precious viewer has tried that and it worked wonderfully. The gentlest part about doing that is… you don’t need to open a wall then repair it, which was by far the most work and time required. Done in the attic, this could be a 1 hour install, and would be brilliant. For sure… give it a try and let me know!

That sucks… I presume you’ve changed out the filter as well. That would be the first culprit usually. Plus I’m guessing your other lines are not frozen? I have since concluded, that the likely reason that part fails at all is the countless times my family jams food against the back wall of the top shelf, where the fridge’s fan is, causing the cold air to get blocked . That cold air a) doesn’t then cool the fridge, b) then cooks the fridge’s lining, where the other lines are. When those lines freeze, flow stops completely. I have gone through this many times. Pulling things away from the fan at the back of the fridge, and perhaps turning the temp down to no cooler then 4 degrees Celsius for the fridge compartment, will thaw those lines and allow flow. I think this is what causes the part to fail in the first place. Perhaps other lines are still frozen. Try clearing out that area, and warming the fridge a little. I’m sorry to hear that.

I’m starting to get that idea. Good news… I have started to script my videos now. I stay on track more now…

I’m starting to get that idea. Good news… I have started to script my videos now. I stay on track more now…

I struggle with the idea that sound doesn’t translate well over UA-cam, as most people watch it on a cell phone or a laptop, both with lousy speakers. So ‘hearing’ the wall on UA-cam would be in no way… accurate, at all. This is why I never demonstrate that. With that said; this has been by far the most common form of feedback. This is why I will do a follow up video demonstrating the sound of the wall.

That is a brilliant setup… in fact, I planned to recommend it in that use, pre-out of a receiver to breath life back into a receiver . However, if you watch my old videos, I’ve been guilty of babbling. This was my first scripted video, specifically so I don’t babble and simply get to the point…. Yet that is a point that is very valid for many users. Thanks for subscribing.

@@consumertechcheck Thanks for the response! Good luck with the channel and looking forward to watching your older and new videos to come in the future!

@@consumertechcheck might make a great video! Using these like guys as an external amp receiving signal from an old receiver to breathe new life into it. And maybe add a streamer? That may appeal to many!!!!

@@ramondelgado6778 I agree... Thanks for the idea... I think I will!

@@consumertechcheckcan’t wait to see it!!!!

The part number is: PS11743696

Or use this link: www.partselect.ca/PS11743696-Whirlpool-WP67006524-Water-Filter-Head-with-Tubing.htm

Yeah… I struggle with how to effectively demonstrate how the wall and floor sound on UA-cam… it just doesn’t translate well, which is largely why I didn’t don’t spend much time (or any) illustrating it. Perhaps a better recording setup would help, but still then, most everyone is listening from their cell phones, which again doesn’t translate to good sound…

Put candles in the room at different points, make sure no draughts obviously... as you cannot achieve audio representation try and make it visual.....glass of water etc

I’m going to do a follow up video where I talk much less and show how the wall sounds…

There has been no signs of breakdown at all. And we use the WALL a lot. I have to admit I was sort of fearful that there would be some damage .

Thank you

I love it..! Even better when the wife is supportive!

What catalogue are we talking about here? I love catalogues!

I know some companies have built class A/B -D hybrids. Such as the class A/B section is for the main speakers, and the class D section is for the subwoofers. Which is a great idea. For anyone arguing the sonic differences between classes, most of those arguments go away, below 100hz.

Thanks for your feedback. I did test with my multimeter… and that confirmed everything.

That’s one way to find out!

Scouts Honor... I will do a follow up video demonstrating the sound. I will limit any explanation to 30 seconds.

That sounds STELLAR!

Without question that would reduce or eliminate the bleeding effect into other rooms. If I were building from scratch, I would do a number of things to reduce bleed, including double studs, one set for each room, along with SONOpan, available at Home Depot, These things are remarkable at reducing sound transfer, if you can get to a Home Depot (in Canada), go in just to see their demonstration. It is impressive. The product is made in Canada. I am not sure if it is available in US stores or not. Certainly, any and all traditional acoustic reduction strategies would help. In this case, I used none of them at all.

Oddly... the hum is gone... I will mention that in a followup.

You have to look closely to see it, but the manufacturer put a blotch of ink on one terminal, likely using a felt. but it is there.

@@consumertechcheck thanks

That sounds like a great find for those Bose speakers! Sometimes people just want to part with things which can make for some pretty good deals. I am still extremely glad that I did the DML wall, and I remain committed to putting more exciters behind drywall everytime I have to open a wall. They sound impressive. Definitely NOT HIFI quality, but for what use them for, mainly background music while entertaining friends at the poker table, it is plenty impressive. Next time I will likely add an inwall subwoofer to compliment the lack of bass. This system however has thunderous bass due to the bass shakers under the floor. The bass in this case has never been an issue for that reason, but without them, it is rather terrible in the bass department.

Thanks for the feedback. It was this primary thought that drove me to do the video... there just wasn't any out there using other materials at the time.

Yes, it is exactly a passive crossover in every way. Just a simple capacitor in line to roll off at 6db per octave.