Only thing I would change, and did on mine, is the air gauge. I didn't like the way the needle bounced around, so I bought this gauge... A little more expensive, a touch more accurate in theory, and liquid filled so it doesn't bounce. Not required, but I like it. Winters PFQ Series Stainless Steel 304 Dual Scale Liquid Filled Pressure Gauge with Brass Internals, 0-60 psi/kpa,2-1/2" Dial Display, +/-1.5% Accuracy, 1/4" NPT Center Back Mount smile.amazon.com/dp/B0087UZHD0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QBZ4S4TJMFMCCCX3HWHY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Run a nipple 10 pipe/tube diameters from the main line or manifold. Place a tee with the guage, then an additional 3-5 pipe/tube diameters past the tee and cap that. That should get rid of any bouncing on the gauge.
Ya that would work pretty awesome I imagine! I tend to get stubborn and just add more force, I'm a bit of a mouth breather.. 😂 Work smarter not harder right?
Awesome DIY. Going to use this pretty much step by step to make a two tire set up. I like to keep my rear and front tires at different psi on my tundra! Awesome video
You could also make a 4 tire system with ball valves on the front. When all 4 are at the desired front pressure, just close the fonts and continue with the rear
Nice video! I didn't read all the comments so maybe I am repeating someone else here: I would recommend changing out that fitting you added to the compressor hose. Leave it as an open male fitting (the one you stuck in the end of the Female Quick Connect. Then put the Female Quick Connect on your manifold. When airing down, insert the male fitting to open the FQC attached to the manifold. Why? Well, you never have to worry about forgetting to put the fitting in the compressor, losing it, or the more likely scenario, someone ELSE removes the fitting and fries your compressor.z If you are concerned about being able to use it with your shop compressor, all you need is join together two male fittings (one 1/4MIP and one 1/4FIP air fitting). I have carried different coupling configurations to use with my tools with other fittings when working construction. You never know when you might have to steal air from (or give air to) someone else running different fittings!
Great build, I'm going to do one for my Jeep. I currently have a 2-way filler hose with a leaky crimp on end. Based on your research with different hose sizes, do you think using the swivel Flexzilla connectors on a 1/4" system would make It any slower? I think it would put less stress on the valve stems. Thanks.
Yes. You could use the flexzilla ends that I use at the tee as well and a threaded tee, or yes there are compression fittings. My issue with those would be that eventually if you use the best fortune everywhere it'll cost you the same as if you just bought a morrflate. I also don't prefer crimp fittings as they really aren't trail side serviceable. The cheap tee and hose clamp can be reused or serviced if something goes wrong. Though I've never had an issue in the 2 years I've been using inflation systems, so serviceability probably isn't a primary concern.
Great video. I have this same compressor. I’m thinking I’d like to make one of these with a 2 tire setup. My vehicle is a super duty and there are aired up to 75psi. Don’t know if trying to do all four tires would overload the compressor. Thanks again.
The load would be about the amount of time it's running. These aren't rated at 100 percent run time so you might have to power off half way through if it overheats. But if you're running factory sized tires it may not take that long.
Thank you! I haven't done a direct comparison of the two, but the main restriction seems to be the valve stems in the tires. The system holds greater pressure as the pump is running than when it's off, so it seems to me the 4 valves can't move as much air as the compressor can. So a larger hose wouldn't have much advantage. I also find that the 1/4 inch system takes up enough space. The 3/8 hose would be a bit bulkier, so I don't see any advantage.
@@fredwasielewski8327 very true. A hypothesis never trumps a result. I've considered building a CO2 tank inflation system like the power tank and making an fyi video... So maybe that would be a good chance to also build a 3/8 system to see how it compares with a compressor, and then how they compare with CO2. Might just be a good project over the winter when the wheeling isn't as often...
Great video! I did A LOT of research on air compressors and found that this one was rated to 300 lpm. That's an insane number for a portable unit. Since I've purchased it, this is exactly the video I need. Going from tire to tire to air up my Jeep is annoying. Thanks for this, I'll be using this as a guide to build my Jim-Flate setup. lol
I'm not sure what fitting the arb uses, but it appears that they use a 1/4 npt on the output. So you should be able to figure out the compressor side very easily.
Brand new sub this morning! 2/27/22! I just ordered the smitty Built 7281 a few days ago, NOW I see this! lol. Definitely will try this when my compressor gets here! looking forward to watching more of your channel! Thank you
Awesome! Welcome Rodney! The smittybilt is a good compressor, and these maxi tracs are hard to come by these days. The inflation system will work just as good for you with the smittybilt though. It'll take a bit longer to air up, but I'm not sure it's a race.
I don't think they do. It's a very common modification, so if they have overload protection built into them it's very rudimentary. I think it has thermal protecting, but not a pressure switch.
I bought the same system as you and decided to go with 1/4 as well. I took apart the Maxi Trac where the hose connects and saw even though the hose is 3/8, the manifold that connects the hose is 1/4. So unless I tap and thread the manifold to 3/8 it didn't make sense to go with the larger hose because its restricted at the beginning of the factory hose. It would be a great video if you can figure out how to thread it to 3/8 and if it will make a difference or not. Thanks for posting the video.
Well as it is, the compressor pumps more air than 4 tire valves can accept. So 3/8 air hose I assume would just pressurize the system more aggressively and not full the tires any faster...
Nice video. I hard mounted a compressor in the tool box in the bed of my Tacoma, but was trying to figure out the tire inflation process from there. You just solved a good bit of it for me. Thanks!
Thank you for watching. If your compressor is in the middle of the truck, just adjust the lengths of the hoses to make sense. Draw it on paper to get your thoughts right and go from there. On the paper write it all the fittings, tee connections, all that. Really helps.
As I think about it... If it's mounted in the tool box, I'd run lines or hoses in the box and mount couplings drilled into the box. So the hoses would plug into the sides of the box and you're up and running.
I am starting to think youtube is monitoring my amazon activity... I was putting together a wish list of the parts to build an inflate based on the quickflate earlier and suddenly following watching a couple of the overland channels I follow do expo-west reports, I find 4-5 of you who made some version of this ranging from 4 months ago to a year and a half. My personal design uses a commercial inflator (as both valve and gauge, though I am debating other options) and a 4 port manifold with individual hoses (that way I can link hoses together if I need to stretch to another vehicle of some such) I did however appreciate you posting that strain relief for the flexzilla hose. I was planning on using flexzilla anyway, and adding the strain relief to my wish list gave me a recommendation on flexzilla bulk hose.
Ya I think most apps monitor all the text inputs on your phone these days, and a few listen to the mic. My wife and I have started talking about what we're looking for while holding our phones in the hopes that we'll get a sale ad... 😁
Great video, thanks for the upload. I am looking to build something quite similar. Glad I watched and figured out that hose is not a standard size. A few things: 1. Pretty sure the fitting out of the compressor uses a 1/8" NPT. I plan to get a 1/8-1/4 adapter, then attach the quick connect straight out of that. Just a little cleaner than having the extra hose dangling out of the compressor. 2. I found very similar tire chucks but with a 1/4" barb. While your setup is certainly prettier and cleaner, doing this will trim some cost on mine. 3. I also plan to add a liquid filled gauge and ball valve - thinking about putting a safety blow-off set to 120 psi just upstream of the valve so I can shut the valve while the compressor is running. Sort of a poor mans pressure switch if you will.
I like the hose out of the compressor... Nothing will break if it falls over. And I think the fitting at the compressor is metric. I haven't verified, but it seems that way. The tire chucks with the barbed fitting will save you a few bucks for sure, I just didn't want hose clamps where my hands go all the time. In fact where I teed the lines off, I may upgrade to the better fittings just because I know the hose clamps are there.
@@EverymanOverland good points for consideration. On a related note, do you know what the little coil spring type clamps that come on the Maxi TRAC hoses are called or where I can find them? Seems like a cleaner low profile solution than worm gear clamps or other similar clamps to avoid snags or cut fingers.
@@Hammbone2519 I don't know what those clamps are called. They seem to work fairly well, but I feel like they're a one shot use kind of deal. Maybe not, but either way they're cool. You can also do shark bite style that are lower profile, but those are one use for sure so you'd have to carry extras in case of trail repair.
Did you guys in the US have the recall on these fire starters.... they only just started selling again in Australia after resolving the issues. Was a full recall of all made.
Nice job! I bought a Speedflate a while ago, and I’m happy with it, but if I had seen this video back then, I would have followed your design. That weird quick connect that you removed from the compressor is an odd one. It’s widely used in Japan, and I think it’s called a Nitto coupler. It’s difficult to find in the US. I have no clue why most portable compressors sold here in the US are equipped with it. I was wheeling in Colorado last summer, and I wanted to hook my Speedflate system up, but discovered that the fittings were incompatible. I stopped at a NAPA auto parts store, and the guys there helped me cut and crimp new hose and “regular” couplers that I ended up replacing the compressor end with.
I think most compressors use it because they're all built in China, and come with their own hose, so they aren't worried about compatibility. But just like you say, it's an easy remedy. Plus, speed flate sells an adapter if needed, but that doesn't help you out there on the trail when you discover it didn't work. Napa for the save!
Awesome video! It gave me inspiration to build my own setup. I bought the flexzilla with the quick disconnect already attached to it. I went with just a 2 tire inflation and the 1/4" hose to save some space. I ended up cutting the short hose off that comes out of the pump and attached a short flexzilla hose, with the open valve quick connect there. I used the closed/locking end on the long hose, this way I can air down with the hose and stop the air flow when I release the closed end valve that I just push in with my key, or a stick. With the closed tire fittings you've recommended it works perfect. I can just take the fittings off one at a time and the hose will hold the pressure with nothing attached to it. I installed a better pressure guage close to the QD hose fitting so I can check the psi periodically. I hope my explanation makes sense, and it helps to improve your build! Thanks again!
Nice video - Thank you for explaining your logic about 1/4 vs 3/8... It also seems to me the valve core will be the choke point, and 1/4" is just that much more manageable to pack up (3/8 might have busted the zipper in that bag). Very cool ball valve & QD design!! If you see this, how is the compressor holding up? I'm torn between this dual compressor and an inverter + small shop compressor (31" tires on a colorado)
The compressor has been fantastic! Hasn't missed a beat. I'm currently preparing a video comparing a 1/4 inch system to a 3/8 system, that should be posted in a week or two. I've had some confusing results, so I'm making a couple changes and doing more testing, so watch for that soon. I also just did a review on a Tozalazz compressor that works fantastic. Basically just the updated version of the Maxi Trac, is good for 10 percent more volume. I'm a big fan of these dual cylinder Chinese compressors for airing up tires. They work awesome.
I noticed when you were airing down, the gauge on manifold drops to zero, and it isn't until you close the valve that you can see how much you've aired down to....is there a way to get the gauge to show "real time" so you don't have to intermittently close the valve to check your psi?
I would guess that you would have to put a restriction in the "exhaust" port where the air escapes so that it holds pressure in the manifold. The way I have it set up it releases air as fast as possible, so the manifold that the gauge is monitoring drops air faster than the 4 hoses can replenish it. The has to be a way to do it, but I haven't tried and tested to find that answer.
I went on my first group run yesterday and realized how slow my little compressor was. By myself its slow but I have not place to be. However yesterday people were aired up and leaving when i was still on my first wheel. I saw your video today. This will be my project over the next month or so during the holidays. Great video.
If the compressor is the problem, this system won't make the process faster. If you can get one (they're selling out everywhere) get the Napa maxi trac dial compressor. Even without the 4 tire setup it'll change your world.
@@EverymanOverland yeah i was just using a combo compressor jump starter. It worked but its not fast in anyway. Then yesterday someone was using the smittybilt 1 piston. But i ran across your review of the napa and i think Okfoot also did a review with that napa one onboard. So think i will order that one and then do like you did. im not really a gear head. I dont have the tools or the patience for somethings but this set up is perfect for a lazy sunday. Id say rainy sunday, but i live in San Diego so we only get a handful of those a year.
The smittybilt 1 piston is essentially half of the maxi Trac. Exactly like the ironman in my video. And yes I watched oxfoots comparison to the arb dual. Good video, and this is such a great compressor. They're in sale right now so I hope you can find one...
@@HappyTrekkers Or you could also opt for co2 tank? I have the red pepboys compressor (similar to smittybilt and others) which works decent but just recently gotten the co2 tank. have not used the tank yet so we'll see when time comes. I'm debating on picking up this maxi trac compressor for back up as well.
@@slixxster5118 ive thought of that as well. I just bought the maxi trac compressor. In fact its sitting in the box next to me as i type this. So need to open it up and try it out. But the CO2 does look really quick.
@@KaburuMNgariama ya, you can get a Guage that's got a threaded piece already built in that comes out the top, but I like it better elevated above the manifold...
I hear ya, and have considered it, but... With all 4 airing up the compressor doesn't get as hot. It gets warm for sure, but no where near as hot as my older smaller compressor.
I wounder if it will melt the flexzila hose Flexzila is the best hose out there its awesome The speed that it will inflate is = to your compressors cfm which is 1.5 cfm
Thanks for the How To! I recently purchased a Jeep Wrangler JL and was put off by the retail costs of the kits available. This is a perfect way to DIY a system for those of us who like to DIY and build our own. One Question: Did you ever swap out the analog gauge for a digital one? Just wondered as some analog gauges seem to lose accuracy at lower PSI values. Or did the updated Winters unit work better? Thanks again for the excellent content!
I think the winters unit works great. I also have a morrflate that I did a review and comparison on, and it has the digital gauge. It seems to work fine, but I still prefer the liquid filled analog gauge. Just a preference, more just what I'm used to.
Hi. The chucks you used, are they one way? If you remove one and the rest are still connected, do these three loose air from the tyres since their chucks are still open and can allow air to pass through?
@@camaroloverx4 that was near 3 years ago, so I'd have to re-watch it to tell you for sure... But I remember it being the 1/4" barbed to 1/4" npt fitting that I used on the spot hose on the compressor. In the early days of those compressors, they used a Japanese Nitto style fitting, and I built the system with American style fitting. So I had to change out the fitting on the compressor.
You can wire that into the compressor, but I choose not to. I don't mind shutting it off by myself, and all the reports I've seen of guys having trouble with the Maxi Trac is guys who have modified them...
Well... The choice to use 1/4" hose was something I really debated in my head, and I expected it to be a bit of a point of contention. I thought It was a bit of a gamble that it would hinder the performance of the system as a whole, so it was really present in my mind as I built it. I asked a few friends and they all say that the similar systems they have are 3/8". I guess I was trying to answer a question before it got asked if why I didn't use 3/8". I apologize if I didn't show enough of assembling the manifold. The video was already over 30 mins and I was concerned it was too repetitive and quite frankly had to watch even at that length. I tried to include enough detail that someone with limited mechanical experience could follow along and successfully make their own. But at the same time cut out a lot of the simpler or repeated processes that might make people tune out. All the parts just screw right into the manifold, super easy.
Your video is 3 yrs old as of the date of my comment, but here it goes. Amazon has a pressure switch that will turn the motor on at 90 psi or less and shut the motor off at 120 psi or higher. Fairly easy for you to do. There are a couple of videos where others have done it; they've mounted the switch inside the handle area.
@@danburch9989 being 3 years old... I don't even remember why you would be quoting pressure switched, but good looking out either way... 😁. I have since moved on through a few compressors and inflation systems. I think at one point, and likely what you're referencing, I had considered on board air. Never did pursue that. Not a real high priority I guess.
First great job. I read another commenter mention a pressure valve switch, I highly recommend it. Another item I hope you will consider is a check valve on your lead hose. It will stop the back pressure from backing up into the compressor thereby extending it's life. Was the engine running when you did your test? That Napa draws 90amps it'll kill you battery quick. You'll also inflate much faster on a running truck. Good luck and great job.
In this test the engine was off. That was mainly for audio purposes for the video. On the trail, and in my compressor test, I have the engine running. Ill look into the check valve. That makes sense. Certainly can't hurt anything, good suggestion!
If you install a check valve, you might not be able to air down when going off roading. It will depend upon where in the supply line it is installed. I installed a simple ball valve to control air flow into and out of the system at the compressor.
Not a bad idea at all. I'm more familiar with Teflon tape, so I just reach for what I'm used to, but whatever method of sealing the parts is just as good. I've seen people use rtv as well.
great work...I am trying to make exact same unit you built. Can I get the part name or number you bought from Loew's at the end to fit the compressor hose? I am not familiar with hardware.....thanks.
I used a 1/4" id to 1/4" npt barbed fitting. You can find them all over, at Lowes, home depot, most anywhere that sells air tools. As an example, here's one on Amazon. It's a set of 4, but shows the type of fitting. Then you'll just need a small hose clamp to secure it. KOOTANS 4pcs 1/4" Hose Barb to 1/4 NPT Male Brass Quick Coupler Air M Type Fitting Quick-Connect Fitting smile.amazon.com/dp/B07P962R5R/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_KPD0V4ETJY7JVFBFSPN5
I used a 1/4" id barbed fitting to 1/4"npt. The barbed end was a little loose in the hose, I suspect the hose is a metric fitment. I tried a 3/8 barbed fitting and it was a bit too tight so I went with the 1/4". I just tightened the hose clamp a bit extra and it seems perfect.
What did you need the elbow connectors on the supply list for? I didn't see it in the video? Also, instead of using another gauge, would it be possible to use my Jaco ElitePro digital tire gauge and inflator in the spot where you would put the pressure gauge? Use the air release on that? Or would you suggest against that?
I used the elbow to mount the pressure gauge. I wanted a hair that had the port coming out the back instead of the bottom and then used the elbow to get everything aligned correctly. It's all just about spacing... The Jaco, or any other route gauge could tell you the system pressure of you installed a nipple where I installed the gauge, but you'd have to hold it there or check it periodically. But the pressure release won't dump pressure anywhere near the rate that the open port valve will. You'd be there forever.
@@NateBoyce1789 I used a 1/4 barbed to 1/4"npt fitting and a hose clamp. Cut the factory end off the compressor hose and install the barbed fitting. Or... You can make an adapter like I made in another video here:
Ya nah... None of it is needed. As the last year has progressed, I absolutely love this system for airing up, but I've stopped using it to air down. Just takes too much time. But this system with my Maxi trac compressor... That's the ticket.
Ya, the smittybilt and the ironman are very similar at about 5.6 cfm. I've also seen some other 2 headed compressors that are exactly like the Maxi Trac, but they were all over 200 bucks. The air system will work with any compressor. Just the faster compressor you have the faster it all airs up. But from what we've found in the field, the 5.6 cfm compressors aren't that far behind in time to air up. Just a couple minutes. There's also the CO2 tank route. I may build one just to see how it goes, but I'm not sure that's what I want just due to the size and weight of it...
I just did a search on Amazon and found a few. This one already comes with a few fittings that may help... Freeman PS3WAM 3-Way 1/4" Universal Steel Air Manifold with Quick Connect Couplers a.co/d/ifnkT3i
Enjoyed this video. Both on the the topic and your deliverable. I plan on doing this build next spring. The only thing I did not like is the hose clamps. I probably will spend a little bit more and get true hose fittings so I don't have to use hose clamps and tear up my hands handling the hose. Great Job!
Thank you for the kind words... I agree that the hose clamps aren't the best move, but they work and keep the cost down. Better option woruld be just get 3 more flexzilla firings and a 1/4" npt tee fitting. I may do that at some point but so far, it hasn't presented as an issue.
Those look nice, but I am totally convinced the the Schrader valve in the tire is the bottleneck in the system. So bigger hose or bigger couplings don't really help unless you run bigger tire valves, or much higher pressure air supply.
@@EverymanOverland but the fittings are still a restriction. It's for uniformity with all your air tools. They do make a noticeable difference with grinders impacts etc
Well I'm about to move and set up a shop in the back yard... I'll look at those fittings in my shop for sure, and then change the inflation system for uniformity like you say. Good call.
I see what you did there... Ya, the flow numbers could all be crap. That's why we timed each of them to give a real world representation of smart they'll do. Even if the flow numbers are dead on, they mean nothing until you see the end result.
There’s a video on an Asian man installing a pressure switch on this compressor so it shuts off once it hits 120psi and will never over pressurize the system. Should look into doing that as well to help with the longevity of the compressors life!
I may look into that at some point. The last week I've had Janky apart, the roof rack off anyway, to sand the rust and repaint the rack, remount the tent, and polish the roof while it's all off. I'm running myself right out of time!
Really appreciate the video - gets to the 1/4" vs 3/8" tubing that I've been struggling with, 1/4" looks to work fine. It doesn't look like you used the 90° brass elbows that are in the parts list.?
I used the elbow for mounting the gauge. You could get a gauge with a bottom mount, but I just like the fit of a back mount better. And ya... 1/4"looks fine.
Great job. What you should do next is put an over pressure switch to the pump so it wont matter if its switched on and not connected. Really cheap and easy to do. Switch standards come in about 70 psi on 120 psi off. Would be an excellent addition to a good setup
Ya, that might be a reasonable addition. I've also considered mounting air tanks to create an on board air system, but when I think about it I can't figure out why. Not sure it's worth the expense just to say I did it.
@@EverymanOverland Putting a pressure switch in is a game changer especially if you hard mount the compressor and /or fit a tank as you can have a switch in the cabin. Turn it on and connect up while its building pressure and it will switch off automatically. If you forgot to turn it off, its switched in the cabin and you can reach it while moving. Thats how Ive got mine and its so much easier. It made all the difference and is just like a top of the line ARB setup now. Personally I wouldnt bother with a tank, but the pressure switch is a must.
@@salcigar agreed. I think though I was just referencing myself. I can see how that would come in handy, but I know that I'm not going to carry air tools. So just personally for me it wouldn't be worth it.
It very well may. I haven't tested it or verified in the manufacturer literature. All the same, I don't want to find out the hard way on the trail so I'll leave the fail-safe in place.
Manual says “150 psi “ and thermal protection also. It also says “ to cut it on and wait for lines to pressurize before pulling trigger” but mine did not come with a trigger
Nice video! One comment is that the adaptor for the original tube should be 3/8 Barb to 1/4 NPT male. 1/4 barb as mentioned in another comment is not correct. I have to return and buy the correct one.
It worked ok for me, though it was a bit loose. The factory hose seemed to me that it was smaller than 3/8 but larger than 1/4. It's a metric size. So you can use either, the 3/8 will be very tight, and the 1/4 will be a bit loose, but the clamp sealed it up just fine...
Great stuff here! I recently made a 2 way system. Tried to make the setup as packable as possible, also went with 1/4" ID for the hose. Hows that working for you? I've heard that it can be hard on the compressor. The first test run went well, just wondering about long term
The 1/4 seems to be perfect. Works very well. I just picked up a truck last night and it needed 45 in the fronts, 60 rear. So I hooked up all 4,got em to 45 and just popped off the fronts to continue the rears to 60. Worked flawlessly.
@@EverymanOverland Nice! Im going to run the 2 way for a bit and see how I like it. Should be easy enough to adapt into a 4 way if needed. I've got an ARB single under the hood and it's been awesome! Congrats on the new truck!
Thank for the video and information. Question though, what did you buy at Lowes, the specific fitting? I didn’t notice it on your provided list of items. Keep of the good work!
It was a barbed fitting. I left it off the list as it wasn't strictly part of the hose system, but on the compressor. It's a 1/4" id to 1/4" npt fitting. I got it in a pack of 1 fitting and one splice fitting for like 5 bucks. Here's an Amazon link for the same type but in a set of 4 for like 8 bucks... KOOTANS 4pcs 1/4" Hose Barb to 1/4 NPT Male Brass Quick Coupler Air M Type Fitting Quick-Connect Fitting smile.amazon.com/dp/B07P962R5R/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_FDA72STV5MHE5CEG7KS6
Great idea,I made one, B U T , I discovered that there was a lot of bulk to deal with. I am going to run the lines under the frame and skid plate with a air chuck at each wheel and four short hoses for the trunk. Less to untangle. Still a good Idea.
@@user-vw6ej7ib5c that'll do! Just be careful about heat sources and make sure it's secured all over the place so it doesn't bounce and wiggle. But sounds like a good project!
I'd love to do a side by side on it. What I found is the bottleneck is the tire valves. My compressor moves more air than the valves can let through. So by my thought, 3/8 hose wouldn't be any faster. But still... Id love to try it!
That would be ideal@@EverymanOverland, but I was just giving you the gears a bit! lol I just finished MYFLATE on the weekend, turned out really well, but I found an orange hose with very similar characteristics to the green hose and it matches my kit/rig better than the green. Thanks for sharing your video 👍
Only problem is that the compressor hose and it's fittings are metric. The hose southland fit the flexzilla fitting, and the threaded boss in the compressor is metric, so it won't accept a threaded fitting that would fit the flexzilla hose. At least as gar as my limited research went.
@@attilaid2169 possibly. The metric house is just a bit bigger than the 1/4" hose, so the metric fitting may be too large to fit inside the flexzilla hose. But, I didn't try, I just went the other way and got a 1/4" id barbed fitting to go into the metric hose and used the aforementioned hose clamp.
@@EverymanOverland thank you kindly, just got my pump today and didn't want to cut that fitting of the pump till I knew the fitting size cause that's the point of no return
Nigo Industrial Co. 3-Way Tee Brass Hose Fitting, 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" ID Hose Barb Pipe Fitting (Pack of 3) smile.amazon.com/dp/B07HX952SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MW5GGYCTFHW2RRTKVZ7Y
First of all great job on the video! What is the total cost of the build? I saw MidAtlantic selling their 4way for $140. Was thinking is it's a better deal
We could add up the total again, but I was at around 125 bucks. I just looked at the Mid Atlantic Cuatro... Looks to me like a reasonable deal. I'm not a fan of the ball valves at every tire, and I don't like the way they give you a Schrader valve to fill with, but those are easily fixed. I don't know if the house they use is as nice as the flexzilla, but I don't know that it's not. For close enough to not matter the same price as what I put together, that looks like a nice option...
I just built something very similar, I used 3/8” manifold and hose with 1/4” contentions. Running stock tires on my 2021 Tacoma trd off road, from 35 psi to 18psi was approx 40 seconds to air down! My plan is to get a co2 tank for fill but might get a back up air compressor. It was $180
I may build a CO2 power tank thing, just because I've always wanted one. But the Maxi Trac compressor fills my 33s from 15 to 38psi in like 3 mins. Even if the CO2 is faster I don't know if it's worth it...
Holy smokes! Great video! I just found your video. I just did a video on my setup using the same compressor and some of the same parts. It worked great. Went out offroading and aired up from 15psi back up to 28psi in four minutes. Only thing different is that I used a digital gauge. I just couldn't trust the needle. Funny thing though. Even after stating in the beginning of my video that I didn't do the purchase and install as a replacement or that this setup is better than the other brands and that this is only an option, I still had friends that own the $400+ compressors get upset with me. Anyway, great video!
Thank you! Ya, just the opposite of you, I don't want to trust the digital Guage. I want mine totally mechanical so that dead batteries can't get in my way. Digital is nice for sure, which is why the big name brands include a digital Guage, but I like mechanical.
@@EverymanOverland You do have a good point which is why I still have the mechanical. Lol. The mechanical still works great with no issues. I guess in most situations I try to be overprepared. I'm a just in case person. Haha. It's costly but you never know, just in case.
That oughta be pretty kick ass. I have thought about doing that, but I do like the ability to take the compressor out and use it at work, or on the wife's car, or a friends car etc...
@@EverymanOverland good point i have another 12v air compressor And i was thinking about mouthing the new one on a small pancake tank with a pressure switch and quick coupler
@@garybrown9719 that'll do! I don't think I'll make the choice to hard mount mine until the time comes that I have air suspension or air lockers... Something that works require the truck to have on board air.
Well a bit of a bummer. I made the air system. Yes it works but the big problem is a ball ,big ball, of hose in the back of the jeep. I plan to eliminate this.i am running a hose to each tire wells with a rubber cap on it . I then only have four 3 ft hoses to plug into the tires and to store in the jeep. If I have a flat I get one hose out, not that whole mess of hoses. Sorry. Its a good idea but not great .
Mostly yes. If you have a big compressor like the Maxi Trac or similar, airing all 4 tires at the same time can save you time. It also inflates them evenly so it makes setting them easier. But if you have a smaller compressor it's more about just saving you from moving the compressor around the truck to air it up. You can use this to air down as well, but I find that I don't. I only use it to air up, and I love it, but I use a valve core remover to air down. It's just as easy and faster because you don't have to deploy then store the inflation system. But ya, it's a convenience more than a tool or necessity.
Jul 1, 2021 · 8 answers The capacity will increase 4 times if the diameter is doubled. π r² h. 10″ diameter pipe, 1″ length. 3.14159 * 25 * 1 = 78.53975 cubic inches.
While true, and you did way better math than I did... The hold up in the system is the Schrader valves in the tire valves. They only allow just so much air through them, so if you have 1/4" hose, 3/8" hose or 1/2" hose, all feeding the same pressure, the fill time won't be affected much if any at all.
Only thing I would change, and did on mine, is the air gauge. I didn't like the way the needle bounced around, so I bought this gauge... A little more expensive, a touch more accurate in theory, and liquid filled so it doesn't bounce. Not required, but I like it.
Winters PFQ Series Stainless Steel 304 Dual Scale Liquid Filled Pressure Gauge with Brass Internals, 0-60 psi/kpa,2-1/2" Dial Display, +/-1.5% Accuracy, 1/4" NPT Center Back Mount smile.amazon.com/dp/B0087UZHD0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QBZ4S4TJMFMCCCX3HWHY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Run a nipple 10 pipe/tube diameters from the main line or manifold. Place a tee with the guage, then an additional 3-5 pipe/tube diameters past the tee and cap that. That should get rid of any bouncing on the gauge.
Did the liquid filled air gauge help?
@@davidhaberman7497 yes. It steadied the needle. Without the liquid filled, the needle bounces around while the compressor is on.
Pretty sweet Looking wheels on your FJ
When assembling that style of hose fitting, dip it in boiling water and then jam it on. Much more easier. I build mine in the kitchen, wife loves it.
Ya that would work pretty awesome I imagine! I tend to get stubborn and just add more force, I'm a bit of a mouth breather.. 😂 Work smarter not harder right?
Awesome DIY. Going to use this pretty much step by step to make a two tire set up. I like to keep my rear and front tires at different psi on my tundra! Awesome video
You could also make a 4 tire system with ball valves on the front. When all 4 are at the desired front pressure, just close the fonts and continue with the rear
@@EverymanOverland I could and thought about it but half the amount of hose is worth the little time to fill two tires at the time to me.
@@decklanburkhart8113 Roger that.
Nice video! I didn't read all the comments so maybe I am repeating someone else here:
I would recommend changing out that fitting you added to the compressor hose. Leave it as an open male fitting (the one you stuck in the end of the Female Quick Connect. Then put the Female Quick Connect on your manifold. When airing down, insert the male fitting to open the FQC attached to the manifold. Why? Well, you never have to worry about forgetting to put the fitting in the compressor, losing it, or the more likely scenario, someone ELSE removes the fitting and fries your compressor.z
If you are concerned about being able to use it with your shop compressor, all you need is join together two male fittings (one 1/4MIP and one 1/4FIP air fitting).
I have carried different coupling configurations to use with my tools with other fittings when working construction. You never know when you might have to steal air from (or give air to) someone else running different fittings!
Great build, I'm going to do one for my Jeep. I currently have a 2-way filler hose with a leaky crimp on end. Based on your research with different hose sizes, do you think using the swivel Flexzilla connectors on a 1/4" system would make It any slower? I think it would put less stress on the valve stems. Thanks.
I don't think the swivel slows it down, but I also don't feel that they're a big advantage VS the extra cost.
Thank you for this awesome video! I just purchased everything on Amazon and it will give me something to look forward to this weekend, lol!
Sweet! Hope you love it. Thank you for watching and keep up the good work building your own things!
4runners range from 135 inch to 150 inch wheelbase depending on years and model
Still confu,ed. Where do I find the parts list?
It's in the video description. Easier to find on your phone or a computer. If you're watching on a TV sometimes you can't read the description...
Is there a better option for the tee fitting? Do they make compression fittings?
Yes. You could use the flexzilla ends that I use at the tee as well and a threaded tee, or yes there are compression fittings. My issue with those would be that eventually if you use the best fortune everywhere it'll cost you the same as if you just bought a morrflate. I also don't prefer crimp fittings as they really aren't trail side serviceable. The cheap tee and hose clamp can be reused or serviced if something goes wrong. Though I've never had an issue in the 2 years I've been using inflation systems, so serviceability probably isn't a primary concern.
Great video. I have this same compressor. I’m thinking I’d like to make one of these with a 2 tire setup. My vehicle is a super duty and there are aired up to 75psi. Don’t know if trying to do all four tires would overload the compressor.
Thanks again.
The load would be about the amount of time it's running. These aren't rated at 100 percent run time so you might have to power off half way through if it overheats. But if you're running factory sized tires it may not take that long.
Hi , Great video. Can you do a comparison test using 3/8” vs.1/4”?
Thank you! I haven't done a direct comparison of the two, but the main restriction seems to be the valve stems in the tires. The system holds greater pressure as the pump is running than when it's off, so it seems to me the 4 valves can't move as much air as the compressor can. So a larger hose wouldn't have much advantage. I also find that the 1/4 inch system takes up enough space. The 3/8 hose would be a bit bulkier, so I don't see any advantage.
Well said but only way to put that thought to rest is a comparison test.?
@@fredwasielewski8327 very true. A hypothesis never trumps a result. I've considered building a CO2 tank inflation system like the power tank and making an fyi video... So maybe that would be a good chance to also build a 3/8 system to see how it compares with a compressor, and then how they compare with CO2. Might just be a good project over the winter when the wheeling isn't as often...
Today is your day Fred! Just released the video you asked for... ua-cam.com/video/t6TGxrYlDAU/v-deo.html
@@EverymanOverland How are you liking your new compressor?Does it get hot?
Great video! I did A LOT of research on air compressors and found that this one was rated to 300 lpm. That's an insane number for a portable unit. Since I've purchased it, this is exactly the video I need. Going from tire to tire to air up my Jeep is annoying. Thanks for this, I'll be using this as a guide to build my Jim-Flate setup. lol
Thank you for watching, I'm glad it helped. And ya, over 10 cfm on the Napa compressor, they're really awesome...
I’m curious if it aired out and in the same psi to all tires.
It did. They were all bang on.
The laws of fluid dynamics will make it happen.
Thank you! Just made my own system and it works great. I tweaked it for my use but it works!
Awesome! I'm glad I could help.
Will this fit onto an arb compressor without changes?
I'm not sure what fitting the arb uses, but it appears that they use a 1/4 npt on the output. So you should be able to figure out the compressor side very easily.
Brand new sub this morning! 2/27/22! I just ordered the smitty Built 7281 a few days ago, NOW I see this! lol. Definitely will try this when my compressor gets here! looking forward to watching more of your channel! Thank you
Awesome! Welcome Rodney! The smittybilt is a good compressor, and these maxi tracs are hard to come by these days. The inflation system will work just as good for you with the smittybilt though. It'll take a bit longer to air up, but I'm not sure it's a race.
Im in Australia and have the same compressor and its got a 125psi pressure switch built in, id assume yours does too
I don't think they do. It's a very common modification, so if they have overload protection built into them it's very rudimentary. I think it has thermal protecting, but not a pressure switch.
I bought the same system as you and decided to go with 1/4 as well. I took apart the Maxi Trac where the hose connects and saw even though the hose is 3/8, the manifold that connects the hose is 1/4. So unless I tap and thread the manifold to 3/8 it didn't make sense to go with the larger hose because its restricted at the beginning of the factory hose. It would be a great video if you can figure out how to thread it to 3/8 and if it will make a difference or not. Thanks for posting the video.
Well as it is, the compressor pumps more air than 4 tire valves can accept. So 3/8 air hose I assume would just pressurize the system more aggressively and not full the tires any faster...
Your black hose on your pump, can you remove black hose on pump, to reinstall your green hose,on pump.
I assume you could swap out the black hose. You may have to buy a different adapter that screws into the compressor, but I don't see why you couldn't.
Nice video. I hard mounted a compressor in the tool box in the bed of my Tacoma, but was trying to figure out the tire inflation process from there. You just solved a good bit of it for me. Thanks!
Thank you for watching. If your compressor is in the middle of the truck, just adjust the lengths of the hoses to make sense. Draw it on paper to get your thoughts right and go from there. On the paper write it all the fittings, tee connections, all that. Really helps.
As I think about it... If it's mounted in the tool box, I'd run lines or hoses in the box and mount couplings drilled into the box. So the hoses would plug into the sides of the box and you're up and running.
I am starting to think youtube is monitoring my amazon activity... I was putting together a wish list of the parts to build an inflate based on the quickflate earlier and suddenly following watching a couple of the overland channels I follow do expo-west reports, I find 4-5 of you who made some version of this ranging from 4 months ago to a year and a half. My personal design uses a commercial inflator (as both valve and gauge, though I am debating other options) and a 4 port manifold with individual hoses (that way I can link hoses together if I need to stretch to another vehicle of some such) I did however appreciate you posting that strain relief for the flexzilla hose. I was planning on using flexzilla anyway, and adding the strain relief to my wish list gave me a recommendation on flexzilla bulk hose.
Ya I think most apps monitor all the text inputs on your phone these days, and a few listen to the mic. My wife and I have started talking about what we're looking for while holding our phones in the hopes that we'll get a sale ad... 😁
Great video, thanks for the upload. I am looking to build something quite similar. Glad I watched and figured out that hose is not a standard size. A few things:
1. Pretty sure the fitting out of the compressor uses a 1/8" NPT. I plan to get a 1/8-1/4 adapter, then attach the quick connect straight out of that. Just a little cleaner than having the extra hose dangling out of the compressor.
2. I found very similar tire chucks but with a 1/4" barb. While your setup is certainly prettier and cleaner, doing this will trim some cost on mine.
3. I also plan to add a liquid filled gauge and ball valve - thinking about putting a safety blow-off set to 120 psi just upstream of the valve so I can shut the valve while the compressor is running. Sort of a poor mans pressure switch if you will.
I like the hose out of the compressor... Nothing will break if it falls over. And I think the fitting at the compressor is metric. I haven't verified, but it seems that way.
The tire chucks with the barbed fitting will save you a few bucks for sure, I just didn't want hose clamps where my hands go all the time. In fact where I teed the lines off, I may upgrade to the better fittings just because I know the hose clamps are there.
@@EverymanOverland good points for consideration. On a related note, do you know what the little coil spring type clamps that come on the Maxi TRAC hoses are called or where I can find them? Seems like a cleaner low profile solution than worm gear clamps or other similar clamps to avoid snags or cut fingers.
@@Hammbone2519 I don't know what those clamps are called. They seem to work fairly well, but I feel like they're a one shot use kind of deal. Maybe not, but either way they're cool. You can also do shark bite style that are lower profile, but those are one use for sure so you'd have to carry extras in case of trail repair.
Did you guys in the US have the recall on these fire starters.... they only just started selling again in Australia after resolving the issues. Was a full recall of all made.
Fire starters? You referring to the compressor? I've used mine for a year and a half, no problems. Love it.
That closed tire fitting is exactly what I need
Makes a huge difference. I couldn't see building it any other way....
@@EverymanOverland okay so I got the same one, BUT, I got the open one. Because the original came with open, I wanted to keep it the same
Well, whatever keeps you happy. I like being able to put them on one at a time without the other leaking. But if you prefer the open, run the open.
Very nice How To on a budget!!
Well thought out Sir.
Thank you!
Nice job! I bought a Speedflate a while ago, and I’m happy with it, but if I had seen this video back then, I would have followed your design. That weird quick connect that you removed from the compressor is an odd one. It’s widely used in Japan, and I think it’s called a Nitto coupler. It’s difficult to find in the US. I have no clue why most portable compressors sold here in the US are equipped with it. I was wheeling in Colorado last summer, and I wanted to hook my Speedflate system up, but discovered that the fittings were incompatible. I stopped at a NAPA auto parts store, and the guys there helped me cut and crimp new hose and “regular” couplers that I ended up replacing the compressor end with.
I think most compressors use it because they're all built in China, and come with their own hose, so they aren't worried about compatibility. But just like you say, it's an easy remedy. Plus, speed flate sells an adapter if needed, but that doesn't help you out there on the trail when you discover it didn't work. Napa for the save!
Awesome video! It gave me inspiration to build my own setup. I bought the flexzilla with the quick disconnect already attached to it. I went with just a 2 tire inflation and the 1/4" hose to save some space.
I ended up cutting the short hose off that comes out of the pump and attached a short flexzilla hose, with the open valve quick connect there. I used the closed/locking end on the long hose, this way I can air down with the hose and stop the air flow when I release the closed end valve that I just push in with my key, or a stick. With the closed tire fittings you've recommended it works perfect. I can just take the fittings off one at a time and the hose will hold the pressure with nothing attached to it. I installed a better pressure guage close to the QD hose fitting so I can check the psi periodically.
I hope my explanation makes sense, and it helps to improve your build!
Thanks again!
Nice video - Thank you for explaining your logic about 1/4 vs 3/8... It also seems to me the valve core will be the choke point, and 1/4" is just that much more manageable to pack up (3/8 might have busted the zipper in that bag). Very cool ball valve & QD design!!
If you see this, how is the compressor holding up? I'm torn between this dual compressor and an inverter + small shop compressor (31" tires on a colorado)
The compressor has been fantastic! Hasn't missed a beat. I'm currently preparing a video comparing a 1/4 inch system to a 3/8 system, that should be posted in a week or two. I've had some confusing results, so I'm making a couple changes and doing more testing, so watch for that soon. I also just did a review on a Tozalazz compressor that works fantastic. Basically just the updated version of the Maxi Trac, is good for 10 percent more volume. I'm a big fan of these dual cylinder Chinese compressors for airing up tires. They work awesome.
I noticed when you were airing down, the gauge on manifold drops to zero, and it isn't until you close the valve that you can see how much you've aired down to....is there a way to get the gauge to show "real time" so you don't have to intermittently close the valve to check your psi?
I would guess that you would have to put a restriction in the "exhaust" port where the air escapes so that it holds pressure in the manifold. The way I have it set up it releases air as fast as possible, so the manifold that the gauge is monitoring drops air faster than the 4 hoses can replenish it. The has to be a way to do it, but I haven't tried and tested to find that answer.
@@EverymanOverland thanks! I imagine once you do it a few times you figure out how long (seconds-mins) it takes to deflate all 4.
@@oversizedoverlanding2365 ya. It goes faster than you'd think, but you get a feel for the sound. You learn to hear when it's getting close.
I went on my first group run yesterday and realized how slow my little compressor was. By myself its slow but I have not place to be. However yesterday people were aired up and leaving when i was still on my first wheel. I saw your video today. This will be my project over the next month or so during the holidays. Great video.
If the compressor is the problem, this system won't make the process faster. If you can get one (they're selling out everywhere) get the Napa maxi trac dial compressor. Even without the 4 tire setup it'll change your world.
@@EverymanOverland yeah i was just using a combo compressor jump starter. It worked but its not fast in anyway. Then yesterday someone was using the smittybilt 1 piston. But i ran across your review of the napa and i think Okfoot also did a review with that napa one onboard. So think i will order that one and then do like you did. im not really a gear head. I dont have the tools or the patience for somethings but this set up is perfect for a lazy sunday. Id say rainy sunday, but i live in San Diego so we only get a handful of those a year.
The smittybilt 1 piston is essentially half of the maxi Trac. Exactly like the ironman in my video.
And yes I watched oxfoots comparison to the arb dual. Good video, and this is such a great compressor. They're in sale right now so I hope you can find one...
@@HappyTrekkers Or you could also opt for co2 tank? I have the red pepboys compressor (similar to smittybilt and others) which works decent but just recently gotten the co2 tank. have not used the tank yet so we'll see when time comes. I'm debating on picking up this maxi trac compressor for back up as well.
@@slixxster5118 ive thought of that as well. I just bought the maxi trac compressor. In fact its sitting in the box next to me as i type this. So need to open it up and try it out. But the CO2 does look really quick.
Hi. Hope you are well. The 14" NPT male elbow, how is it mounted to the air gauge?
I have checked the pics on Amazon. Seen the back of the gauge and understand what the elbow is for.
@@KaburuMNgariama ya, you can get a Guage that's got a threaded piece already built in that comes out the top, but I like it better elevated above the manifold...
should replace that black hose on the compressor with a quick connect , those black hoses are prone to fail because of the heat
I hear ya, and have considered it, but... With all 4 airing up the compressor doesn't get as hot. It gets warm for sure, but no where near as hot as my older smaller compressor.
I wounder if it will melt the flexzila hose
Flexzila is the best hose out there its awesome
The speed that it will inflate is = to your compressors cfm which is 1.5 cfm
We are running the Maxi Trac compressor that moves a bit more than 10 CFM. Takes about 3 mins to go from 15psi to 38 psi on my 33's.
Thanks for the How To! I recently purchased a Jeep Wrangler JL and was put off by the retail costs of the kits available. This is a perfect way to DIY a system for those of us who like to DIY and build our own. One Question: Did you ever swap out the analog gauge for a digital one? Just wondered as some analog gauges seem to lose accuracy at lower PSI values. Or did the updated Winters unit work better? Thanks again for the excellent content!
I think the winters unit works great. I also have a morrflate that I did a review and comparison on, and it has the digital gauge. It seems to work fine, but I still prefer the liquid filled analog gauge. Just a preference, more just what I'm used to.
Hi. The chucks you used, are they one way? If you remove one and the rest are still connected, do these three loose air from the tyres since their chucks are still open and can allow air to pass through?
No, they're "closed" style so that you can use any number of them and the others remain sealed.
What was the part you got from the store?
@@camaroloverx4 that was near 3 years ago, so I'd have to re-watch it to tell you for sure... But I remember it being the 1/4" barbed to 1/4" npt fitting that I used on the spot hose on the compressor. In the early days of those compressors, they used a Japanese Nitto style fitting, and I built the system with American style fitting. So I had to change out the fitting on the compressor.
Question would it be possible to put in a pressure switch as well to automatically turn off the compressor once tires are at their set pressure?
You can wire that into the compressor, but I choose not to. I don't mind shutting it off by myself, and all the reports I've seen of guys having trouble with the Maxi Trac is guys who have modified them...
Just curious why you didn’t show building up your manifold system at all but continuously harp on the 1/4” hose thing. Just saying
Well... The choice to use 1/4" hose was something I really debated in my head, and I expected it to be a bit of a point of contention. I thought It was a bit of a gamble that it would hinder the performance of the system as a whole, so it was really present in my mind as I built it. I asked a few friends and they all say that the similar systems they have are 3/8". I guess I was trying to answer a question before it got asked if why I didn't use 3/8".
I apologize if I didn't show enough of assembling the manifold. The video was already over 30 mins and I was concerned it was too repetitive and quite frankly had to watch even at that length. I tried to include enough detail that someone with limited mechanical experience could follow along and successfully make their own. But at the same time cut out a lot of the simpler or repeated processes that might make people tune out. All the parts just screw right into the manifold, super easy.
Your video is 3 yrs old as of the date of my comment, but here it goes. Amazon has a pressure switch that will turn the motor on at 90 psi or less and shut the motor off at 120 psi or higher. Fairly easy for you to do. There are a couple of videos where others have done it; they've mounted the switch inside the handle area.
@@danburch9989 being 3 years old... I don't even remember why you would be quoting pressure switched, but good looking out either way... 😁. I have since moved on through a few compressors and inflation systems. I think at one point, and likely what you're referencing, I had considered on board air. Never did pursue that. Not a real high priority I guess.
@@EverymanOverland I made the comment for the benefit of others like me who've seen your video for the first time.
First great job. I read another commenter mention a pressure valve switch, I highly recommend it. Another item I hope you will consider is a check valve on your lead hose. It will stop the back pressure from backing up into the compressor thereby extending it's life.
Was the engine running when you did your test? That Napa draws 90amps it'll kill you battery quick. You'll also inflate much faster on a running truck. Good luck and great job.
In this test the engine was off. That was mainly for audio purposes for the video. On the trail, and in my compressor test, I have the engine running.
Ill look into the check valve. That makes sense. Certainly can't hurt anything, good suggestion!
If you install a check valve, you might not be able to air down when going off roading. It will depend upon where in the supply line it is installed. I installed a simple ball valve to control air flow into and out of the system at the compressor.
@8:47 - you could also use Loctite 545. This might be a better solution than teflon tape, as long as you have some time for it to cure.
Not a bad idea at all. I'm more familiar with Teflon tape, so I just reach for what I'm used to, but whatever method of sealing the parts is just as good. I've seen people use rtv as well.
great work...I am trying to make exact same unit you built. Can I get the part name or number you bought from Loew's at the end to fit the compressor hose? I am not familiar with hardware.....thanks.
I used a 1/4" id to 1/4" npt barbed fitting. You can find them all over, at Lowes, home depot, most anywhere that sells air tools. As an example, here's one on Amazon. It's a set of 4, but shows the type of fitting. Then you'll just need a small hose clamp to secure it.
KOOTANS 4pcs 1/4" Hose Barb to 1/4 NPT Male Brass Quick Coupler Air M Type Fitting Quick-Connect Fitting smile.amazon.com/dp/B07P962R5R/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_KPD0V4ETJY7JVFBFSPN5
@@EverymanOverland thnk you so much for your fast response…
What size fitting did you use for the end of the hose from the compressor?
I used a 1/4" id barbed fitting to 1/4"npt. The barbed end was a little loose in the hose, I suspect the hose is a metric fitment. I tried a 3/8 barbed fitting and it was a bit too tight so I went with the 1/4". I just tightened the hose clamp a bit extra and it seems perfect.
What did you need the elbow connectors on the supply list for? I didn't see it in the video? Also, instead of using another gauge, would it be possible to use my Jaco ElitePro digital tire gauge and inflator in the spot where you would put the pressure gauge? Use the air release on that? Or would you suggest against that?
I used the elbow to mount the pressure gauge. I wanted a hair that had the port coming out the back instead of the bottom and then used the elbow to get everything aligned correctly. It's all just about spacing...
The Jaco, or any other route gauge could tell you the system pressure of you installed a nipple where I installed the gauge, but you'd have to hold it there or check it periodically. But the pressure release won't dump pressure anywhere near the rate that the open port valve will. You'd be there forever.
@@EverymanOverland thank you for the information. Awesome video btw
@@NateBoyce1789 thank you for watching! I'm happy I can be helpful...
@@EverymanOverland What was the parts needed to convert your compressor to work with the system? I have the same compressor
@@NateBoyce1789 I used a 1/4 barbed to 1/4"npt fitting and a hose clamp. Cut the factory end off the compressor hose and install the barbed fitting. Or... You can make an adapter like I made in another video here:
"Need" is a subjective term man, do any of us really "need" the toys we spend our time (and money) on!? Great video, thanks!
Ya nah... None of it is needed. As the last year has progressed, I absolutely love this system for airing up, but I've stopped using it to air down. Just takes too much time. But this system with my Maxi trac compressor... That's the ticket.
Lmfao brother Janky Flate or Big PapaFlate 😂😂
They totally ran out of the maxi trac. Would you recommend the smittybilt? is it okay to do this on the smittybilt as well? TIA
Ya, the smittybilt and the ironman are very similar at about 5.6 cfm. I've also seen some other 2 headed compressors that are exactly like the Maxi Trac, but they were all over 200 bucks. The air system will work with any compressor. Just the faster compressor you have the faster it all airs up. But from what we've found in the field, the 5.6 cfm compressors aren't that far behind in time to air up. Just a couple minutes.
There's also the CO2 tank route. I may build one just to see how it goes, but I'm not sure that's what I want just due to the size and weight of it...
hex manifold in the link is discontinued. anyone know of another replacement ? thanks.
I just did a search on Amazon and found a few. This one already comes with a few fittings that may help... Freeman PS3WAM 3-Way 1/4" Universal Steel Air Manifold with Quick Connect Couplers a.co/d/ifnkT3i
What size fitting did you use to replace the factory hose fitting?
In the compressor I used a 1/4" id barbed to 1/4" npt fitting.
Nice, thank you!
Only thing I would add that I can't remember if it's in this video is if you're using an analog gauge, make sure it's liquid filled.
Enjoyed this video. Both on the the topic and your deliverable. I plan on doing this build next spring. The only thing I did not like is the hose clamps. I probably will spend a little bit more and get true hose fittings so I don't have to use hose clamps and tear up my hands handling the hose. Great Job!
Thank you for the kind words... I agree that the hose clamps aren't the best move, but they work and keep the cost down. Better option woruld be just get 3 more flexzilla firings and a 1/4" npt tee fitting. I may do that at some point but so far, it hasn't presented as an issue.
Check the Milton Type V couplers/fittings...flow way more air than regular type M
Those look nice, but I am totally convinced the the Schrader valve in the tire is the bottleneck in the system. So bigger hose or bigger couplings don't really help unless you run bigger tire valves, or much higher pressure air supply.
@@EverymanOverland but the fittings are still a restriction. It's for uniformity with all your air tools. They do make a noticeable difference with grinders impacts etc
Well I'm about to move and set up a shop in the back yard... I'll look at those fittings in my shop for sure, and then change the inflation system for uniformity like you say. Good call.
@@EverymanOverland In my experience ALL the flow numbers are very INFLATED
I see what you did there... Ya, the flow numbers could all be crap. That's why we timed each of them to give a real world representation of smart they'll do. Even if the flow numbers are dead on, they mean nothing until you see the end result.
There’s a video on an Asian man installing a pressure switch on this compressor so it shuts off once it hits 120psi and will never over pressurize the system. Should look into doing that as well to help with the longevity of the compressors life!
I may look into that at some point. The last week I've had Janky apart, the roof rack off anyway, to sand the rust and repaint the rack, remount the tent, and polish the roof while it's all off. I'm running myself right out of time!
Great video 😊 Thank you sharing 😊
What fitting did you end up using coming off the main line?
I just used a 1/4" id barbed to 1/4"npt fitting. It fit the hose pretty well. Worked perfect.
@@EverymanOverland awesome thanks man!
I want to build one like this in the near future
It's very easy. Just grab up the parts and go for it!
Well done. Great video! Thank you!
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Really appreciate the video - gets to the 1/4" vs 3/8" tubing that I've been struggling with, 1/4" looks to work fine.
It doesn't look like you used the 90° brass elbows that are in the parts list.?
I used the elbow for mounting the gauge. You could get a gauge with a bottom mount, but I just like the fit of a back mount better. And ya... 1/4"looks fine.
Great job. What you should do next is put an over pressure switch to the pump so it wont matter if its switched on and not connected. Really cheap and easy to do. Switch standards come in about 70 psi on 120 psi off. Would be an excellent addition to a good setup
Ya, that might be a reasonable addition. I've also considered mounting air tanks to create an on board air system, but when I think about it I can't figure out why. Not sure it's worth the expense just to say I did it.
@@EverymanOverland Putting a pressure switch in is a game changer especially if you hard mount the compressor and /or fit a tank as you can have a switch in the cabin. Turn it on and connect up while its building pressure and it will switch off automatically. If you forgot to turn it off, its switched in the cabin and you can reach it while moving. Thats how Ive got mine and its so much easier. It made all the difference and is just like a top of the line ARB setup now. Personally I wouldnt bother with a tank, but the pressure switch is a must.
@@EverymanOverland because with an air tank you can run air tools like an impact, handy for changing tires.
@@salcigar agreed. I think though I was just referencing myself. I can see how that would come in handy, but I know that I'm not going to carry air tools. So just personally for me it wouldn't be worth it.
This might work for your pressure switch. CompStudio 70-100 PSI Air Pressure Switch Tank Mount Type Thread 1/4" NPT 12V/24V for Train/Air Horn
Awesome project. 3min in and 3min out is not bad at all.
Where is home base for you, are you in the Charlotte area?
I'm currently in Charleston, but we're looking at moving to upstate NC later next year.
Gday mate the compressor you have should already have a pressure cut off switch on it. So it should shut off on its own.
It very well may. I haven't tested it or verified in the manufacturer literature. All the same, I don't want to find out the hard way on the trail so I'll leave the fail-safe in place.
Manual says “150 psi “ and thermal protection also. It also says “ to cut it on and wait for lines to pressurize before pulling trigger” but mine did not come with a trigger
I apologize turns out the Maxi trak does not have a pressure cut off.
great little pump
Nice video! One comment is that the adaptor for the original tube should be 3/8 Barb to 1/4 NPT male. 1/4 barb as mentioned in another comment is not correct. I have to return and buy the correct one.
It worked ok for me, though it was a bit loose. The factory hose seemed to me that it was smaller than 3/8 but larger than 1/4. It's a metric size. So you can use either, the 3/8 will be very tight, and the 1/4 will be a bit loose, but the clamp sealed it up just fine...
Great video and great job on the project thanks for sharing the links
Thank you for watching! I get to use the system for the first time or in the wild this weekend, goin wheelin in TN!
Thank you for your video.
Thank you for watching!
Great stuff here! I recently made a 2 way system. Tried to make the setup as packable as possible, also went with 1/4" ID for the hose. Hows that working for you? I've heard that it can be hard on the compressor. The first test run went well, just wondering about long term
The 1/4 seems to be perfect. Works very well. I just picked up a truck last night and it needed 45 in the fronts, 60 rear. So I hooked up all 4,got em to 45 and just popped off the fronts to continue the rears to 60. Worked flawlessly.
@@EverymanOverland Nice! Im going to run the 2 way for a bit and see how I like it. Should be easy enough to adapt into a 4 way if needed. I've got an ARB single under the hood and it's been awesome! Congrats on the new truck!
Thank for the video and information. Question though, what did you buy at Lowes, the specific fitting? I didn’t notice it on your provided list of items. Keep of the good work!
It was a barbed fitting. I left it off the list as it wasn't strictly part of the hose system, but on the compressor. It's a 1/4" id to 1/4" npt fitting. I got it in a pack of 1 fitting and one splice fitting for like 5 bucks. Here's an Amazon link for the same type but in a set of 4 for like 8 bucks...
KOOTANS 4pcs 1/4" Hose Barb to 1/4 NPT Male Brass Quick Coupler Air M Type Fitting Quick-Connect Fitting smile.amazon.com/dp/B07P962R5R/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_FDA72STV5MHE5CEG7KS6
Great idea,I made one, B U T , I discovered that there was a lot of bulk to deal with. I am going to run the lines under the frame and skid plate with a air chuck at each wheel and four short hoses for the trunk. Less to untangle. Still a good Idea.
@@user-vw6ej7ib5c that'll do! Just be careful about heat sources and make sure it's secured all over the place so it doesn't bounce and wiggle. But sounds like a good project!
I used 3/8” for MYFLATE, in theory my Smittybuilt compressor on 3/8” hose should be quicker than your compressor on 1/4”
I'd love to do a side by side on it. What I found is the bottleneck is the tire valves. My compressor moves more air than the valves can let through. So by my thought, 3/8 hose wouldn't be any faster. But still... Id love to try it!
That would be ideal@@EverymanOverland, but I was just giving you the gears a bit! lol
I just finished MYFLATE on the weekend, turned out really well, but I found an orange hose with very similar characteristics to the green hose and it matches my kit/rig better than the green.
Thanks for sharing your video 👍
@@thepavementendsnow1901 I bet the orange looks kick ass..
Should've just replaced that short hose that's coming out of the pump with flexzilla too, so you can use the flexzilla fittings there.
Only problem is that the compressor hose and it's fittings are metric. The hose southland fit the flexzilla fitting, and the threaded boss in the compressor is metric, so it won't accept a threaded fitting that would fit the flexzilla hose. At least as gar as my limited research went.
@@EverymanOverland can't you just cut the original hose off the fitting, slide the flexzilla over it and use a hose clamp to secure it?
@@attilaid2169 possibly. The metric house is just a bit bigger than the 1/4" hose, so the metric fitting may be too large to fit inside the flexzilla hose. But, I didn't try, I just went the other way and got a 1/4" id barbed fitting to go into the metric hose and used the aforementioned hose clamp.
What is that final fitting that you used
I just used a 1/4" id barbed to 1/4"npt fitting. It fit the hose pretty well. Worked perfect.
@@EverymanOverland thank you kindly, just got my pump today and didn't want to cut that fitting of the pump till I knew the fitting size cause that's the point of no return
What size Tee fitting are those?
1/4" id barbed
I ordered everything you listed, doesn’t look like 1/4 is available any more.
Nigo Industrial Co. 3-Way Tee Brass Hose Fitting, 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" ID Hose Barb Pipe Fitting (Pack of 3) smile.amazon.com/dp/B07HX952SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MW5GGYCTFHW2RRTKVZ7Y
Those are what you need...
Awesome! Appreciate your time.
Parts list please
It's in the description....
Flexzilla 1/4" hose: (qty 1)
smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000R8LH3E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Flexzilla 1/4" hose ends: (qty 4)
smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TCDKXY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wynnsky air hose fittings:(qty 1)
smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K674P45/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hex Manifold: (qty 1)
smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003D7KN2C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
AstroAI closed system tire fittings: (qty 1 box of 4)
smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D13V72Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Barbed "Tee" fittings with hose clamps: (qty 1 box of 2 "tees")
smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B082KRLRM7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Winters 60psi 1/4" center/back air gauge: (qty 1)
smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087UBMCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/4" ball valve: (qty 1)
smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0823QBKFV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
14" NPT elbow to mount the air gauge: (qty 1 pack of 2, but only 1 elbow is required)
smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0856VXTZZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
First of all great job on the video! What is the total cost of the build? I saw MidAtlantic selling their 4way for $140. Was thinking is it's a better deal
We could add up the total again, but I was at around 125 bucks. I just looked at the Mid Atlantic Cuatro... Looks to me like a reasonable deal. I'm not a fan of the ball valves at every tire, and I don't like the way they give you a Schrader valve to fill with, but those are easily fixed. I don't know if the house they use is as nice as the flexzilla, but I don't know that it's not. For close enough to not matter the same price as what I put together, that looks like a nice option...
I have the cuatro my mid atlantic off road, and I found a coupon that brought the price down even more. Its a great kit!
I just built something very similar, I used 3/8” manifold and hose with 1/4” contentions. Running stock tires on my 2021 Tacoma trd off road, from 35 psi to 18psi was approx 40 seconds to air down! My plan is to get a co2 tank for fill but might get a back up air compressor. It was $180
I may build a CO2 power tank thing, just because I've always wanted one. But the Maxi Trac compressor fills my 33s from 15 to 38psi in like 3 mins. Even if the CO2 is faster I don't know if it's worth it...
@@EverymanOverland that’s quick, I might have to look at that compressor
What about a back up for your back up?
Holy smokes! Great video! I just found your video. I just did a video on my setup using the same compressor and some of the same parts. It worked great. Went out offroading and aired up from 15psi back up to 28psi in four minutes. Only thing different is that I used a digital gauge. I just couldn't trust the needle. Funny thing though. Even after stating in the beginning of my video that I didn't do the purchase and install as a replacement or that this setup is better than the other brands and that this is only an option, I still had friends that own the $400+ compressors get upset with me. Anyway, great video!
Thank you! Ya, just the opposite of you, I don't want to trust the digital Guage. I want mine totally mechanical so that dead batteries can't get in my way. Digital is nice for sure, which is why the big name brands include a digital Guage, but I like mechanical.
@@EverymanOverland You do have a good point which is why I still have the mechanical. Lol. The mechanical still works great with no issues. I guess in most situations I try to be overprepared. I'm a just in case person. Haha. It's costly but you never know, just in case.
Thanks for the video
Thank you for watching!
Im putting a tank on mine and hooking up a pressure switch its going to be permanently mounted in my landcrusers
That oughta be pretty kick ass. I have thought about doing that, but I do like the ability to take the compressor out and use it at work, or on the wife's car, or a friends car etc...
@@EverymanOverland good point i have another 12v air compressor
And i was thinking about mouthing the new one on a small pancake tank with a pressure switch and quick coupler
@@garybrown9719 that'll do! I don't think I'll make the choice to hard mount mine until the time comes that I have air suspension or air lockers... Something that works require the truck to have on board air.
Great video...BUT...did you maybe consider a 3/8 hose..lol
You breakin my balls Lewis? Givin me anxiety... 😁
@@EverymanOverland do you have a parts list?
Don't put the fitting from the compressor hose on the bullbar like that or your goanna loose it. Lol
I typically log out in my pocket, because ya, I lose everything! 😁
Well a bit of a bummer. I made the air system. Yes it works but the big problem is a ball ,big ball, of hose in the back of the jeep. I plan to eliminate this.i am running a hose to each tire wells with a rubber cap on it . I then only have four 3 ft hoses to plug into the tires and to store in the jeep. If I have a flat I get one hose out, not that whole mess of hoses. Sorry. Its
a good idea but not great .
I have no idea how I got here - but is this just for convenience sake?
Mostly yes. If you have a big compressor like the Maxi Trac or similar, airing all 4 tires at the same time can save you time. It also inflates them evenly so it makes setting them easier. But if you have a smaller compressor it's more about just saving you from moving the compressor around the truck to air it up. You can use this to air down as well, but I find that I don't. I only use it to air up, and I love it, but I use a valve core remover to air down. It's just as easy and faster because you don't have to deploy then store the inflation system. But ya, it's a convenience more than a tool or necessity.
Jul 1, 2021 · 8 answers
The capacity will increase 4 times if the diameter is doubled. π r² h. 10″ diameter pipe, 1″ length. 3.14159 * 25 * 1 = 78.53975 cubic inches.
While true, and you did way better math than I did... The hold up in the system is the Schrader valves in the tire valves. They only allow just so much air through them, so if you have 1/4" hose, 3/8" hose or 1/2" hose, all feeding the same pressure, the fill time won't be affected much if any at all.