What springs did you use? I put 50w oil with stock springs and made an improvement. I was thinking a 5# 6s spring. Almost always on a track not too much “bashing”. Thanks!
@@ChrisWilliams-lt8lq I forget the rating on the springs I used but I know they are almost twice as stiff as the stock ones. I am running 80 weight also. I hear a lot of guys are running Mojave 6S shocks on the 4S. I am mostly at the local RC track as well.
I will come home from vacation to my new Mojave, freshly delivered. Life is good. Btw, thank you for this thorough review. I’ve watched them all and his one is comprehensive and well thought out.
I ended going with an 84mm 5.4# spring up front and 90mm 5# spring in the rear with 50W oil front/rear. Front and rear have M2C racing 15mm spacers and the small clip spacer from Arrma. Ride height is perfect for me. Dampening on both compression and rebound is excellent. Track handling is a lot better and still has fast action for fast straight line bumpy terrain. Other mods include Ali aluminum center drive, Globact steering bell crank including servo arm. Globact aluminum pivot balls. Had the Globact servo saver as well but the spring is weak and it binds inside the housing causing tons of play in the steering. Put factory saver back in with aluminum arm. I'm a little wary of the center drive being aluminum but so far so good.
"Well, that's like, your opinion man".... 😉 😉 I love wheelies because they take a little bit of skill to get right.. Saying that, some RCs I do like to stay planted, like my buggies.!
On my first pack running on dirt and loose rocks my ‘center drive shaft’ snapped in two. Seems like a weak point. Why do you say avoid aluminum upgrade? What is the downside?
So during my first 10 or so battery packs, I also had my stock plastic driveshaft snap. I replaced with another stock plastic center driveshaft and it has held up fine after A LOT of abuse. I do not recommend an aluminum driveshaft because you are shifting the weak point to other drivetrain items that are not as easy to replace. If I were you I would try another stock plastic one. If you break another plastic one, then consider upgrading to aluminum. General rule of thumb: When upgrading to aluminum you are shifting the weak point to something else. You want the weak point on things that are cheap and easy to replace.
Ordinarily I would say that’s true but the driveshaft is telescopic so I figured it would have some give and not transfer the shock like suspension arms would. But I think going to go with plastic one more time makes sense. It’s only a $10 part. Thanks
Interesting. I would recommend going to the horizon hobby website, find the Mojave 4S store page, go under the 'support' tab, and download the latest version of the manual
My center driveshaft has been EATEN by rocks, its holding on for dear life atm, been milled down to bare minimum. Wish adding a dustcover was easier. Also my right front CVD has broke twice now. Seems like it got destroyed by a bad bearing, check those. My links are also shot. However, like yours, mine has been through hell at this point. Its like my old trusty. When the Xmaxx goes down for the count and other cars break down, this one usually is the last man stading. Also, my body has got stuck multiple times, but only after running it in dusty gravel areas.
@@make4all2000 I just recently put 30k front, 60k center, 20k rear. It's much better than stock but I think your suggestion would improve my setup further. Thanks!
Very well! They do not perform like my gens ace or Spektrum batteries but for the price I can't complain. Personally wouldn't race with them. Too heavy.
Did you ever have the early lvc happen on stock settings Just got mine and have about less than 10mins runtime until lvc Do u know if the update via laptop is the same as just changing the esc settings Please help
@@jarrett1890 I think that’s what I need to do as punch is upto 9 now from stock, timing off, lvc at lowest and still about ten mins runtime and when lvc chips in my lipo are basically at storage or higher And all this feels weak yes I did notice a slight punch increase but not from a 6 to a 9
@@jarrett1890 sooo I have literally just completed the task. The esc say no available update so I’m on the latest 12/11/23 B5.12 Hw495 kz2 v1.2 Monster on the esc card that I can now connect Tomorrow I’ll run fresh lipo and see what lvc we get now I also put the timing back to stock as seems weak maybe that’s the lack of punch
It’s worn already but there’s nothing to clamp it down…I’ve got a brand new Mojave 4s and bearing just floats in a grove….kind of dumb but that’s the way it is.
And for anyone watching this. DONT BUY A MAXX SLASH!!! They absolutely suck!!! Mojave 4s will run circles around a Maxx Slash all day every day! And the Maxx slash is 6s!
I absolutely second this! But for other reasons. My maxx slash lasted 13 days before the esc shit itself. (Sent whole car back for full refund) . Parts are expensive, from new all suspension components, hubs and steering are very sloppy. Mojave 4s is far superior in terms of the build quality, dirt protection etc. Parts are cheaper. Very durable. And £350 less than the maxx slash!
You are 100% right about the suspension. The first thing I did to mine is install stiffer springs and thicker weight oil. Made a huge difference.
@@Shreddylife Yep that's the right move I think
What springs did you use? I put 50w oil with stock springs and made an improvement. I was thinking a 5# 6s spring. Almost always on a track not too much “bashing”. Thanks!
@@ChrisWilliams-lt8lq I forget the rating on the springs I used but I know they are almost twice as stiff as the stock ones. I am running 80 weight also. I hear a lot of guys are running Mojave 6S shocks on the 4S. I am mostly at the local RC track as well.
I will come home from vacation to my new Mojave, freshly delivered. Life is good. Btw, thank you for this thorough review. I’ve watched them all and his one is comprehensive and well thought out.
This guy has NEVER had a SENTON...
Senton vs Mojave 4s?
Thank you for the video, I just back ordered mine and am happy to know the problems with it 👍
I ended going with an 84mm 5.4# spring up front and 90mm 5# spring in the rear with 50W oil front/rear. Front and rear have M2C racing 15mm spacers and the small clip spacer from Arrma. Ride height is perfect for me. Dampening on both compression and rebound is excellent. Track handling is a lot better and still has fast action for fast straight line bumpy terrain. Other mods include Ali aluminum center drive, Globact steering bell crank including servo arm. Globact aluminum pivot balls. Had the Globact servo saver as well but the spring is weak and it binds inside the housing causing tons of play in the steering. Put factory saver back in with aluminum arm. I'm a little wary of the center drive being aluminum but so far so good.
I just dropped a 6 pound spring on each corner and oh my God it’s a wheelie machine!!
Doing wheelies is ABSOLUTELY POINTLESS!!! I'll never understand why people like them... I want a truck that stays grounded 90 percent of the time
"Well, that's like, your opinion man".... 😉 😉
I love wheelies because they take a little bit of skill to get right..
Saying that, some RCs I do like to stay planted, like my buggies.!
As far as that goes ….RCs are absolutely pointless !
$499 for Mojave 6s till the end of the month 😍
On my first pack running on dirt and loose rocks my ‘center drive shaft’ snapped in two. Seems like a weak point. Why do you say avoid aluminum upgrade? What is the downside?
So during my first 10 or so battery packs, I also had my stock plastic driveshaft snap. I replaced with another stock plastic center driveshaft and it has held up fine after A LOT of abuse. I do not recommend an aluminum driveshaft because you are shifting the weak point to other drivetrain items that are not as easy to replace. If I were you I would try another stock plastic one. If you break another plastic one, then consider upgrading to aluminum.
General rule of thumb: When upgrading to aluminum you are shifting the weak point to something else. You want the weak point on things that are cheap and easy to replace.
Ordinarily I would say that’s true but the driveshaft is telescopic so I figured it would have some give and not transfer the shock like suspension arms would. But I think going to go with plastic one more time makes sense. It’s only a $10 part.
Thanks
@@Nutz_forRCs 👍
My program options in my book don’t have as many as yours I put the punch at 6 seems a lil more responsive gives a lil more kick
Interesting. I would recommend going to the horizon hobby website, find the Mojave 4S store page, go under the 'support' tab, and download the latest version of the manual
My center driveshaft has been EATEN by rocks, its holding on for dear life atm, been milled down to bare minimum. Wish adding a dustcover was easier. Also my right front CVD has broke twice now. Seems like it got destroyed by a bad bearing, check those. My links are also shot. However, like yours, mine has been through hell at this point. Its like my old trusty. When the Xmaxx goes down for the count and other cars break down, this one usually is the last man stading. Also, my body has got stuck multiple times, but only after running it in dusty gravel areas.
@@Henr1k yep can relate! She's built strong.
Hi! Put 1 mil in the center diff , 30k on the back and 50k in the front and you make wheelie with 4s, and punch 9 on esc
@@make4all2000 I just recently put 30k front, 60k center, 20k rear. It's much better than stock but I think your suggestion would improve my setup further. Thanks!
How do you increase the punch past 6 my book don’t even say that it is capable
121 now Smurf👊🏿🥳💯 great review here
Thanks you 🤙🏿🤙🏿
Wie löst man das Problem mit der mittleren Antriebswelle ich habe es leider nicht verstanden
Bisher hatte ich keine Probleme mit der mittleren Antriebswelle 👍
Someone in a board meeting probably demanded "IT NEEDS TO HAVE A WHEELIE BAR" and the engineers just rolled their eyes lol
Haha!
Those ovanics 8000 4s did not last more the 3 charges for me how r there holding for u.
Very well! They do not perform like my gens ace or Spektrum batteries but for the price I can't complain. Personally wouldn't race with them. Too heavy.
Did you ever have the early lvc happen on stock settings
Just got mine and have about less than 10mins runtime until lvc
Do u know if the update via laptop is the same as just changing the esc settings
Please help
Yep stock mine hit LVC very early. Adjust via esc first.
@@jarrett1890 I have to the lowest at number one and still I’m cutting at 3.7/3.8’s
@@gonzodetroitify Hmm. Might be worth trying the firmware update then
@@jarrett1890 I think that’s what I need to do as punch is upto 9 now from stock, timing off, lvc at lowest and still about ten mins runtime and when lvc chips in my lipo are basically at storage or higher
And all this feels weak yes I did notice a slight punch increase but not from a 6 to a 9
@@jarrett1890 sooo I have literally just completed the task. The esc say no available update so I’m on the latest 12/11/23
B5.12
Hw495 kz2 v1.2
Monster on the esc card that I can now connect
Tomorrow I’ll run fresh lipo and see what lvc we get now
I also put the timing back to stock as seems weak maybe that’s the lack of punch
Pulling the motor out is bs honestly I’ve ran it once and trying to get the motor out and I’ve done busted my knuckles and broken a mip 2.5
Yeahhhhhh it's kinda rough. But I still like it. They just need to figure out how to prevent sand and dirt from locking it up in there.
i keep breaking my chasis by bashing the a arm off my 3rd time now
Your driveshaft bearing carrier is broken mate...
It's missing a prong on the motor side, the bearing should clip in firmly.!
It’s worn already but there’s nothing to clamp it down…I’ve got a brand new Mojave 4s and bearing just floats in a grove….kind of dumb but that’s the way it is.
I broke an a arm on mine the first ten minutes I drove it lol
I've broken my chassis 3 times I'm running aluminum arms (bad idea)
Do u have the actual size of the esc fan
Is it 25mm🫡
No clipless body please! Those Traxxas crap always comes loose
@@FrankvdBerg I hear ya. Good point.
I destroyed the body- the only fault on this really.
nankin hobby, was be from Michigan
Yep!
And for anyone watching this. DONT BUY A MAXX SLASH!!! They absolutely suck!!! Mojave 4s will run circles around a Maxx Slash all day every day! And the Maxx slash is 6s!
I absolutely second this! But for other reasons. My maxx slash lasted 13 days before the esc shit itself. (Sent whole car back for full refund) . Parts are expensive, from new all suspension components, hubs and steering are very sloppy.
Mojave 4s is far superior in terms of the build quality, dirt protection etc. Parts are cheaper. Very durable. And £350 less than the maxx slash!