@@HippoDrones Yeah, to much software can be tricky. With the electric bikes that is sadly the future. The ICE bikes always will have some hands-on repairs for the everyday rider, luckily. The upside is I have checked many things now, that normally don't get checked often. So the bike is in a good state again. Just hooking it up to a PC and finding the exact problem makes it fast and easy, but all the other things don't get some extra attention.
I went through your videos and maybe you can help me out. I’m working on my sons MT-03 660 with an aftermarket exhaust. Sounds great, but the plops are rather frequent and very loud, even with the best reducing db killers inserted. Hence I wanted to block the AIS with a simple fix by blocked off the AIS in way of the air intake tube as I found on the internet. When disconnected the rubber tube at the air box, but not yet blocked, I started the engine. Once started, I blocked the tube with my thumb and due to the vacuum the engine immediately stalled. Have you tried this on your XT660? Your comment is much appreciated!
Hey, thanks. Do you mean the carter rebreather that connects to your airbox on the right front side of the airbox? The rubber hose comes from left side of the engine. That should be the crankrebreather. I did remove it from the airbox, got myself a amazon airfilter, connected that to the rubber hose, and placed it vertically, to prevent water getting in. It needs to be able to breath, to prevent over- or under pressure problems. The AIS from the exhaust comes from in between the 2 exhaust ports, and runs on the left side towards the back. You can get a plate made for the gap between the exhausts. (off-the-road for example). Or you can disconnect the hose under the left side panel/under the tank, and ducttape the hole close, and reconnect the hose. That is what has been done on my XT. Sadly not on video. A Kev mod / o2 mod can also help allot with reducing plops and bangs.
@@Meifesto Thanks for your swift reply! Quote: Or you can disconnect the hose under the left side panel/under the tank, and ducttape the hole close, and reconnect the hose. That is what has been done on my XT.- Unquote. This is what I have done, I had the hose disconnected, ran the engine with hose still open. Put my thumb on the hose where there was a vacuum, then the engine stalled. Reason for stalling is unclear to me. I might try again but then with starting the engine with the hose blocked off already. Maybe in that way the engine will run with the cut off valve closed. PS NL'er trouwens 😉
Hello, these aren't error codes but co2 and diag settings. So, out of my head. d05 (air T"") and d06 (water T"") An example of normal values could be; d01 = 17 d03 = 102 d05 = 14 (this is with -7 using Kev Mod) d06 = 20
i have a 2015 tenere its vibrate alot (kind of resonating mirors ,handlbar .neutral or while riding on gear doest matter) between 3k-4k rpm. does that mean it missfire or something else
If you only have engine vibrations, but still a smooth ride it most likely is just the way the engine works. The XT as a big single cylinder has allot of engine vibrations, just part of the package.
In the end after changing the coil and the regulator it was fixed. In the meantime I have replaced the regulator with my old one and it is still working good, so 99% certain it was the coil.
The problem I have with my Yamaha XT660 is that it doesn't start or bring any spark. I'm stuck today, the third day, every time I start it, it shows the check engine. I don't know what to do. I'm asking for your help, guys.
The problem I have with my Yamaha XT660 is that it doesn't start or bring any spark. I'm stuck today, the third day, every time I start it, it shows the check engine. I don't know what to do. I'm asking for your help, guys.
@@kingmaduka8129 Go into your diag menu (on the dashboard), it must give a error code for sure. Then find out what the codes means, and start from there. Or, remove sparkplug, place it against frame, start engine, do you have spark? If not, measure battery, check fuses, check coil, check regulator. Worst case, check ecu.
I tried to remove the fuse but it immediately caught fire when I pulled the plug it went out and lost power again now I don't know what to do and the motorcycle is very old
Heel veel, maar bij mij was de uiteindelijke dader zeer waarschijnlijk de bobine. En anders de spanningsregelaar. Die 2 had ik als laatst vervangen, en daarna deed die weer normaal ;)
@@Meifesto Thx voor de info bobine heb ik nu al eens veranderd maar dat doet niks , zal ook de spanningsregelaar even vernieuwen en dan afwachten op het resultaat Grtz
please help, my mt03 660 has lost spark. No errors. The pump is working. The starter turns. The pulser is OK, the alternator is OK. What to check? How to check ? What could be the reason? Thank you in advance for the information and best regards ✌️🙂
Hard to diagnose. If the sparkplug is on the coil, and you hold it against the outside of the engine case, does it spark? If not, it is before that. Bad sparkplug, defect coil maybe. Is the battery still fine? Maybe give it a small charge. All the fuses still good?
@@Meifesto thank you...All system elements are operational. battery ok, coil ok, spark plug ok. Taking the plug out and inserting it into the engine (to the engine ground) and turning the starter does not produce a spark. I checked all the elements according to the service manual - how to look for a spark. I guess the problem is in the coil power supply. Something is disconnecting the spark. Question - where are the wires that disconnect power to the coil / kill switch to the ECU module / and how to check it? and can you supply power directly to the coil - originally a red cable with a black stripe/upper contact/? and check whether the signal from the module goes to the lower contact (orange cable)?
@@Meifesto Good morning, of course, when I turn on the "kill switch" start button, first of all, the relay under the battery clicks, and the pump starts working - which pumps to the cut-off. Then I press the starter and the starter turns. And quite efficiently. They won't show anything on the meter except that when I crank it for a while, the check light comes on for a moment and goes off when I let go. But it's normal that if the engine doesn't start, the check engine light comes on for a moment and goes off as soon as I release the starter button. Literally 1 second.
you had opportunity to really help community by testing them one by one so we could pin point what is the issue but no you have to chage them all at the same time
Not all at the same time, but in small batches. The problem for me was 95% sure the coil, although I did replace the voltage regulator as well. Electrical problems can come from many angles, and what might solve the problem for me, might not work for someone else. Basics things should always be checked first, before buying parts. In the end, I showed multiple possible solutions that could fix problems for different people, and never got to show them all, because my XT got fixed. ;)
It was a little bit darker then normal. It was not depending on the outside temperature. In the end the coil was most likely the faulty part. After replacement it is working fine again.
Well done getting it fixed mate! 🙂
Thanks.
It was a pain in the ...
But luckily I found it before doing an expensive ecu swap, or worse, bought an other bike xD
@@Meifesto Is always good to know how to diagnose faults... newer bikes make it almost impossible unless you can plug them into a computer!
@@HippoDrones Yeah, to much software can be tricky.
With the electric bikes that is sadly the future.
The ICE bikes always will have some hands-on repairs for the everyday rider, luckily.
The upside is I have checked many things now, that normally don't get checked often. So the bike is in a good state again.
Just hooking it up to a PC and finding the exact problem makes it fast and easy, but all the other things don't get some extra attention.
I went through your videos and maybe you can help me out.
I’m working on my sons MT-03 660 with an aftermarket exhaust. Sounds great, but the plops are rather frequent and very loud, even with the best reducing db killers inserted. Hence I wanted to block the AIS with a simple fix by blocked off the AIS in way of the air intake tube as I found on the internet.
When disconnected the rubber tube at the air box, but not yet blocked, I started the engine. Once started, I blocked the tube with my thumb and due to the vacuum the engine immediately stalled.
Have you tried this on your XT660?
Your comment is much appreciated!
Hey, thanks.
Do you mean the carter rebreather that connects to your airbox on the right front side of the airbox? The rubber hose comes from left side of the engine.
That should be the crankrebreather. I did remove it from the airbox, got myself a amazon airfilter, connected that to the rubber hose, and placed it vertically, to prevent water getting in. It needs to be able to breath, to prevent over- or under pressure problems.
The AIS from the exhaust comes from in between the 2 exhaust ports, and runs on the left side towards the back. You can get a plate made for the gap between the exhausts. (off-the-road for example). Or you can disconnect the hose under the left side panel/under the tank, and ducttape the hole close, and reconnect the hose. That is what has been done on my XT. Sadly not on video.
A Kev mod / o2 mod can also help allot with reducing plops and bangs.
@@Meifesto Thanks for your swift reply!
Quote: Or you can disconnect the hose under the left side panel/under the tank, and ducttape the hole close, and reconnect the hose. That is what has been done on my XT.- Unquote.
This is what I have done, I had the hose disconnected, ran the engine with hose still open. Put my thumb on the hose where there was a vacuum, then the engine stalled. Reason for stalling is unclear to me. I might try again but then with starting the engine with the hose blocked off already. Maybe in that way the engine will run with the cut off valve closed. PS NL'er trouwens 😉
Please what error Is do3: 95
Do1: 13
Do5: 24
Do6: 23
Thank you
Hello,
these aren't error codes but co2 and diag settings.
So, out of my head. d05 (air T"") and d06 (water T"")
An example of normal values could be;
d01 = 17
d03 = 102
d05 = 14 (this is with -7 using Kev Mod)
d06 = 20
i have a 2015 tenere its vibrate alot (kind of resonating mirors ,handlbar .neutral or while riding on gear doest matter) between 3k-4k rpm. does that mean it missfire or something else
If you only have engine vibrations, but still a smooth ride it most likely is just the way the engine works.
The XT as a big single cylinder has allot of engine vibrations, just part of the package.
@@Meifesto thank you. i watched more videos and understand missfire is a different thing
Hi , what was the problem
In the end after changing the coil and the regulator it was fixed.
In the meantime I have replaced the regulator with my old one and it is still working good, so 99% certain it was the coil.
The problem I have with my Yamaha XT660 is that it doesn't start or bring any spark. I'm stuck today, the third day, every time I start it, it shows the check engine. I don't know what to do. I'm asking for your help, guys.
The problem I have with my Yamaha XT660 is that it doesn't start or bring any spark. I'm stuck today, the third day, every time I start it, it shows the check engine. I don't know what to do. I'm asking for your help, guys.
@@kingmaduka8129 Go into your diag menu (on the dashboard), it must give a error code for sure.
Then find out what the codes means, and start from there.
Or, remove sparkplug, place it against frame, start engine, do you have spark? If not, measure battery, check fuses, check coil, check regulator. Worst case, check ecu.
I tried to remove the fuse but it immediately caught fire when I pulled the plug it went out and lost power again now I don't know what to do and the motorcycle is very old
Heb hetzelfde probleem met mijn xt660x 2011 , welke onderdelen heb je juist vervangen ?
Heel veel, maar bij mij was de uiteindelijke dader zeer waarschijnlijk de bobine.
En anders de spanningsregelaar.
Die 2 had ik als laatst vervangen, en daarna deed die weer normaal ;)
@@Meifesto
Thx voor de info bobine heb ik nu al eens veranderd maar dat doet niks , zal ook de spanningsregelaar even vernieuwen en dan afwachten op het resultaat
Grtz
Braaap!
please help, how to set the tps sensor? I looked at the manual, it doesn't say much
I haven't changed my tps sensor in the end, so must admit that i can't help you with that one.
Sorry and good luck.
What happens when u are hitting both Buttons
On the dash you mean?
If you keep them pressed long enough you get in the Diagnostic Menu.
please help, my mt03 660 has lost spark. No errors. The pump is working. The starter turns. The pulser is OK, the alternator is OK. What to check? How to check ? What could be the reason? Thank you in advance for the information and best regards ✌️🙂
Hard to diagnose.
If the sparkplug is on the coil, and you hold it against the outside of the engine case, does it spark?
If not, it is before that. Bad sparkplug, defect coil maybe.
Is the battery still fine? Maybe give it a small charge.
All the fuses still good?
@@Meifesto thank you...All system elements are operational. battery ok, coil ok, spark plug ok. Taking the plug out and inserting it into the engine (to the engine ground) and turning the starter does not produce a spark. I checked all the elements according to the service manual - how to look for a spark. I guess the problem is in the coil power supply. Something is disconnecting the spark. Question - where are the wires that disconnect power to the coil / kill switch to the ECU module / and how to check it? and can you supply power directly to the coil - originally a red cable with a black stripe/upper contact/? and check whether the signal from the module goes to the lower contact (orange cable)?
@@krzall1 Does it make any sound at all when you press the start button?
@@Meifesto
Good morning, of course, when I turn on the "kill switch" start button, first of all, the relay under the battery clicks, and the pump starts working - which pumps to the cut-off. Then I press the starter and the starter turns. And quite efficiently. They won't show anything on the meter except that when I crank it for a while, the check light comes on for a moment and goes off when I let go. But it's normal that if the engine doesn't start, the check engine light comes on for a moment and goes off as soon as I release the starter button. Literally 1 second.
@@krzall1 Have you tried to open the Diag in the sadh?
It might give you an error code that can help pinpoint the problem.
Fijn dat je het heb kunnen fixen!
Heb sindsdien alleen nog maar in de auto gezeten voor de boodschappen 🤣
Zo fijn dat die weer goed rijdt.
Nu nog perfect ;)
@@Meifesto Het is lekker weer om in de auto met airco te zitten.
@@redboll Met de afsluiting van de A29 veels te veel file om in de auto te zitten.
Dus pak lekker de motor, zolang het droog is 😉
you had opportunity to really help community by testing them one by one so we could pin point what is the issue but no you have to chage them all at the same time
Not all at the same time, but in small batches.
The problem for me was 95% sure the coil, although I did replace the voltage regulator as well.
Electrical problems can come from many angles, and what might solve the problem for me, might not work for someone else.
Basics things should always be checked first, before buying parts.
In the end, I showed multiple possible solutions that could fix problems for different people, and never got to show them all, because my XT got fixed. ;)
That' s funny because I had the same problem and I just changed the voltage regulator and the problem was solved
@@heina_13 It might have been the voltage regulator. I suspect the coil, but it was one of the 2 for sure ;)
Was your ignition plug black or normal color? Did it depend on outside temperature?
It was a little bit darker then normal. It was not depending on the outside temperature.
In the end the coil was most likely the faulty part. After replacement it is working fine again.
@@Meifesto thank you for your answer
Hi
Hey
It would have been the sensor.
problem was fixed after changing the coil and the regulator, although due to the origin of the problem, a faulty coil seems most likely.