Large format lenses on the cheap!!
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2021
- I wanted to show in this video that there were inexpensive lens options and with a little work you could make a large format camera very cheap. Below I am going to put links to the paper I use and the Ortho film I use as well as links to this lens. I am also going to put links to direct positive paper and the video on reversing paper with peroxide and citric acid.
Adorama 8x10 paper "Link says unavailable if so any glossy paper will work"
www.adorama.com/vbr810100g.html
Arista Ortho Litho Film 3.0
www.freestylephoto.biz/531345...
Direct positive paper
www.adorama.com/ildpf4525g.html
180mm projector lens
This is essentially the same lens that is in the video the difference is I took mine out of a damaged projector and this one is available to buy on its own.
www.aliexpress.com/item/32651...
220mm and 290mm lens "For 5x7 and 8x10"
www.aliexpress.com/item/32600...
500mm projector lens "would be for 8x10 camera"
This lens has no focus built into it so it would require the proper camera for it
www.aliexpress.com/item/32740...
Peroxide and citric acid reverse process
They have several videos on this process this is the most recent
• The Dream Part Two
Great video and Looking forward to your shutter video!👍👍👍
I like the forest images. That helical focusing projector lens looks interesting too.
BTW, there’s a variation on the peroxide reversal process that uses EDTA and drugstore strength peroxide, I will try it soon and make a video about it.
Looking forward to your homemade shutter experiments.
I am going to attempt the peroxide reversal you have demonstrated at a fall festival this coming weekend. Hopefully soon I will get to making the shutter video. The biggest issue some people have with trying out film photography is the lack of new equipment and if any new equipment is available it is usually expensive. I very much enjoy your videos on pinhole cameras and plan on demonstrating them. I have also noticed several amazing 3d printed cameras with the only downside being film holder/lens/shutter having to be obtained from another source and usually expensive. I may need to break down and get a 3d printer to make some testing of ideas easier. I look forward to seeing this other reversal process as well. Very much enjoy your video's
Great content. Thank you for sharing it!
I'm loving your experiments!
Thank you. I have unfortunately been busy at work and unable to make more videos but hopefully after the holidays I will be able to start again
@@matthewbary1 hopefully you get back at it soon. I just poured my first gelatin /emulsion mixture on glass. Fingers crossed when i expose it later
@@AndrewBroussardWatercolors I would love to see the results and hopefully I had some useful information for you. Just be sure the emulsion is totally dry before exposing's it. As long as the gelatin is set and not runny you can use a fan to ensure it dries out all the way.
👌
Love the pictures you were able to get inside. I really want to know where you sourced that shutter though. The chromium 35mm camera uses a smaller variant of one and I think a similar system could be adapter to the shutter you showed.
It was on eBay, some kind of surplus military shutter, if you search for shutter it should come up
@@matthewbary1 thanks I was giving that a shot but didn't find anything. May have to do a saved search and see if anything pops up. Thanks though!
@@WorldInThe Apparently they are no longer available, I would recommend looking up " Guillotine shutter" as I have had better luck with this design more than anything else and it is simple to build.
@@matthewbary1 Yeah those shutters are easy to make and may be what I use. Thanks for the help though.
Interesting stuff. I recently stumbled on the idea of using spaghetti irises for kitchen use and repurposing them as aperture mechanisms. They’re relatively cheap. Also, could you explain the concept you used for aperture sharpness where you had a small circle on the outside of the lens. Wouldn’t that simply result in vignetting? People think I’m crazy for this shutter idea, but why not use cross polarisation as a means of making a cheap shutter? If we have two circular polarizers, then we only need a way of actuating each unit to rotate 90 degrees as a means of achieving 180 degrees which would cover the 3 step exposure. This could be done mechanically or using two solenoids. This could be further refined so that you have a quick opening time to reach maximum exposure time , and then rapid closing times. Conversely, if you don’t need maximum light , you could reduce the shutter time by having both polarizers rotate less than 90 degrees each. But the main benefit with my idea is that you’re allowing simultaneous exposure across the entire frame. The only thing I wonder about is whether ghosting could be an issue. Otherwise , why on gods green earth aren’t cross polarised shutters a thing? They’re much more mechanically simple to manufacture, implement and maintain than leaf shutters. At least that’s what I’m thinking. I can’t imagine achieving the small amount of travel time to be that hard to achieve as mechanical camera curtains utilise compound gear trains to achieve short travel times .
I have seen those spaghetti irises you are talking about and also there are metal ones used to trace circles I have thought about. The one I made on the front of the lens was just to reduce light and test it out but yes it will cause soft focus and vignetting around the edge it was just a throw together thing. My main focus was going to be on different types of easy to build Guillotine Shutters as they can be made simply cheaply and they are very effective at many speeds however you present a interesting idea that I may have to see if I can try out. I would think that a simple solenoid and electronic timing system could be built fairly easily and would save allot of space. It may work better with a stepper motor as it can rotate precisely to any position as well as at different speeds and they are fairly cheap and easy to use as well.
@@matthewbary1 Yes, exactly. When I tore down an old camera I was dumbfounded by both the simple elegance yet complexity of geared mechanisms they use to achieve rapid travel times. I think something usable could be prototyped fairly inexpensively. And by utilizing additional solenoids and/or coupling or substituing gear ratios faster shutter speeds could be attained. I mean, even utilizing simple torsion spring-action mechanisms I think this could be achieved. From what I recall the cheap Amazon/eBay solenoids can cover 1mm per millisecond, give or take. A simple falling object covers about 5m per second, I think. I just woke up so it's completely possible that my figures are off, but the takeaway mental note I made was that achieving a 1/60th exposure using an arcane design would cover 3-5mm. But considering how cheap they are, introducing additional valves would further reduce the tight tollerance requiements and cover potential margins of error. I'm inclined to say that solenoids are overkill, and that their main benefit is for flash synchronization. It's almost tempting to see what could be done with a simple wind-up mechanism from a toy car or music box. At the very least you'd have access to some solid gears. The other idea would be to completely forego complex gear-drive setups and instead use a belt-drive system for efficient gear reduction. I don't foresee the torque requirements being obscene. I'm truly dumbfounded nobody has mass-manufactured these puppies, considering far more complex autofocus adapters can be had for $20-$50. This should be a walk in the park for a competent (i.e. not me) engineer with access to manufacturing equipment. I've even wondered if those spaghetti irises could be modified so that you could completely block the iris. Lastly, I've also wondered about the active shutter concept where you have electrically activated glass which blacks out. I even wonder if this could be done using the same principle of liquid lenses, where an electrical charge could black out the entire aperture, fast enough. Alright! Enjoy your Sunday!
Great summary of lenses that can be used on large format cameras: big thanks! One question: I do cyanotype in-camera and would like to use the chinese led projector lens you mentioned first in this review. Do you have experience / can you share a picture made with this lens specifically when used 'full open' (so , "used as is")? That would help me big time! Best of luck and great joy with your camera projects.
I have not tried that particular experiment yet but I am going to try it with the fast formula I made and see what can be done with it. I suspect it will work just fine but you never know until you try. By the way very cool that you are doing in camera cyanotypes as it requires allot of patience and skill to make such a long exposure work.
@@matthewbary1 Indeed Sir: a lot of patience needed! But at the same time, it is an opportunity to think of nothing else, and while the photograph is being taken, you can admire the surroundings and often, a spontaneous conversation develops with people who happen to pass by... ;-) . The thing with this projector lens is: if it performs as badly as a simple magnifying glass (used full open), then I won't buy it (it's currently around 60 dollars). If it is better, even slightly better, then I will put it on my wish list for X-mas! Your opinion is very valuable for me, so please don't hesitate to shoot an answer back! Warmest greetings
@@WVanderveken what size of a print are you going for? Or I guess I should say what size lens are you thinking of and I may be able to better test it out
@@matthewbary1 I built a camera (wood...) with glass/paper holder for 4X5 format, so the lens should cover at the minimum 4X5 inch (image circle should cover that area). I've looked for the lens you have but the link is no longer active (Aliexpress). But I found a very similar looking lens in versions 180, 210 and 290 mm focal length. I'm inclined to go for the 210 mm one and hope that it will give me a sufficiently large image circle (even beyond 4X5 inch), as I may decide to build a somewhat large format camera if things turn out to work sufficiently well... "touch wood"!
@@WVanderveken the lens that has the built in focus ring covers 5×7 so I will have to see what it does. All of the inexpensive projector lenses are based off of the old Cooke triplet design and should all have similar results
if you plugged your light into a smart plug, you could control the duration of lights on much like a shutter.
Does this lens from Alibaba have any type of UV coating? I'm working on a medium format/large format UV enlarger
As far as I am aware it has no coatings
Any chance you know how to get a ultra large format lens F3 or better on the cheap? Image circle 30 inch or bigger? Can only find super expensive ones. Thanks
Closest thing I can think of would be a positive meniscus lens. You can make one simply by using close up diopter filters for any DSLR camera. The bigger they are the lower the F stop and I think 82mm is some of the biggest. Some of them have a 46" image circle
@@matthewbary1 yea I tried that route but couldn´t find one big enough. Maybe I just purchase a bunch of them and try again. Thanks.
@@sneeuwwolf1176 Get a cheap set on Amazon 82mm you will get a range from 100mm to 2000mm from them. The only other option I can think of is a besler projector lens 25" you can find on ebay sometimes. The best are old military airial photography lenses but usually those go for more than a car sometimes which is why I don't have any lol
Would this type of lens be good for in camera cyanotype? I've been experimenting just with a magnifying glass but this would be a lot better I think.
Actually yes especially the projector lens as it is fast and covers a larger area for making negatives. I have tested that projector lens for in camera cyanotype and it made a 5x7 negative in a few hours
@@matthewbary1 thanks a lot for the information love the channel helps a lot your tips are great! I don't know if you've tried this before but I've been toning my cyanotype with tannic acid I got from oak galls myself. I'm really curious to try different parts of the oak tree because they contain a lot of tannic acid and other tannins. I'm curious what effects I can get with just oak.
@@benjaminvleugels5609 I have not tried toning with oak myself but have read several articles on it. I have however been perfecting a process to get almost perfect blacks with toning using tannic acid and citric acid or vinegar and I am very happy with the results, I may have to make that my next video if I can get around to it lol
@@matthewbary1 oh that's really cool you should do that indeed if you have the time. I've also got a pretty good black gray tone with the oak galls by crushing them in a powder and letting them sit in a bottle of water and vinegar for about a week or longer and then filtering that solution with a coffee filter or something. I just used the medieval way of making ink and they called for using vinegar as well for making a better ink. If you just ad boiling water you get a toner that is more brown. While cold water and vinegar makes it black very strange but I do need to experiment some more to confirm this.
@@matthewbary1 also one more question about that Chinese lens you have how big does the lens actually project I thought about just making a round photos like in the olden days.
Wondering how you calculated the speed of those projector lenses.
Focal length divided by lens diameter
@@matthewbary1 Thanks.
What photo paper are you using?
Adarama 8x10 glossy
Sir how much sir please tell me sir
There is no such thing as cheap large format lens anymore. Just take a look at the rediculous asking prices on all usual auction sites even for rightoff examples.