When you fill up the cooling system with coolant, make sure to remove the radiator cap AND the air bleed screw on the intake manifold and then fill at the coolant reservoir. Jacking up the front end to helps remove any stubborn air pockets in the system. It's very easy to air lock these cooling systems which will cause you to overheat quickly. I've done quite a bit of repairs on my 2510 so if you've got any questions, feel free to shoot me message. Also, I have the factory service repair manual (PDF) if you're interested.
@@mjmcomputers Most people don't know it's there but it's critical to remove it until you get a steady stream of coolant flowing through it. Also, I meant to say fill at the filler neck next to the coolant reservoir but I'm sure you already figured that out :P Good luck with your project!
@@weeeves thanks. My 2510 just got a new carburator and the shop says it now overheats after driving a few hundret feet. Willl try and see if it wasnt bled properly. thanks for the manual !
I have a 1996 2510 I have an overheating issue as well. I think mine my be a deeper one. Meaning perhaps the next gasket beyond the water pump gasket. Perhaps out of my skill set to fix.
Hey how are you I have a question I have a Kawasaki mule 2510 like yours my brake pedal spring broke I ordered a new one but don’t know where it hook to underneath there I took the pedal off I know it goes on the pedal but not sure where it hook up at if you could help I would be very appreciative
How do you get the central nut off the primary clutch. The whole clutch turns. Afraid to put something in the flywheel looking front portion. Can you help?
Again, I don't know how far along you are with this. I have to tell you though, nothing comes into my shop area without first be pressure washed from top to bottom. It makes life so much nicer working on it. Being that your videos are popping up out of order for me. Seems I got your last one (carb throttle return spring) first.. Question. What was the problem you had that made you want to take the engine apart? Here are some tips. To drain the engine coolant, there are 2 drain ports at the bottom of the cylinders (clutch side) that have 12mm flanged hex heads. It's easy to spot. If you look at the dip stick mount, you will see a cutout with a bolt behind it that you would be able to get a 12mm socket on. That's one. The other is located at the same spot on the other cylinder. Once that is done, in my mind, it just best just to pull the engine out and work on it on a bench. Makes life much easier Weeves is absolutely correct about bleeding the air out of the coolant system. Another 12mm head flange bolt located on top of the intake manifold, left of the carb looking from the flywheel side. The newer version Mules have another bleed port located on the steel coolant pipe which is even higher than the one on the intake and makes bleeding the system much easier. Also, you may have to visit the bleed screw more than once while getting all the air out of the system. Bleed it, drive it, let it cool, bleed it again and so forth until all the air is out. Once it air locks at the pump, it will overheat in a heartbeat. So, try to avoid that at all costs. Now, that plastic cam gear. You do not have the factory Mule engine on that machine. Most likely, it is a FD620D off a John Deere or, other lawn tractor. As far as I know, ALL true mule engines have steel cam gears. Another indicator would be if you see a governor lever on top, or, a bolt on top of the block where the governor rod would come through the block to the linkage. A true Mule engine doesn't have that hole for the governor rod. The Mule governor is located in the rear end, not the engine The other difference between a true Mule engine and a 620 from a different piece of equipment is the crankcase cover. You DO have the correct Mule crankcase cover from what I saw when you removed the inside clutch cover. But that plastic cam gear is a dead give way the engine isn't original to the Mule. Another thing, the 620s out of the JD or other equipment will not have the splined PTO shaft. So, the crank was also changed to keep that original. Otherwise, you would have to buy the newer style taper shaft drive clutch assembly, or a aftermarket Comet drive clutch with a straight bore. I think Mule's went to the taper shaft with the 3010 and newer. I prefer the splined shaft. Much easier getting it off. I just finished up rebuilding a (true Mule) 620 as a spare. All it's lacking to be "plug and play" is the starter. If you have any question about the Mule, please feel free to contact me. Weeves also sounds like he knows what he's talking about. Hopefully, you downloaded the link he sent you for the service manual. A wealth of info in there. I also sent you some links earlier where you can find (to a point) quality used spare parts.
From what I could find online it appears the early mules had plastic cam gears and they switched to metal later while the John Deere’s always had plastic.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
When you fill up the cooling system with coolant, make sure to remove the radiator cap AND the air bleed screw on the intake manifold and then fill at the coolant reservoir. Jacking up the front end to helps remove any stubborn air pockets in the system. It's very easy to air lock these cooling systems which will cause you to overheat quickly.
I've done quite a bit of repairs on my 2510 so if you've got any questions, feel free to shoot me message. Also, I have the factory service repair manual (PDF) if you're interested.
I didn’t know about that bleeder, thanks for the tip.
@@mjmcomputers Most people don't know it's there but it's critical to remove it until you get a steady stream of coolant flowing through it.
Also, I meant to say fill at the filler neck next to the coolant reservoir but I'm sure you already figured that out :P
Good luck with your project!
forgot to say I would be interested in the factory service manual.
@@mjmcomputers www.docdroid.net/v8R7kac/kawasaki-mule-2510-2520-service-manual-93-00.pdf
@@weeeves thanks. My 2510 just got a new carburator and the shop says it now overheats after driving a few hundret feet. Willl try and see if it wasnt bled properly. thanks for the manual !
How do you get the sleeve bearing out of the crankcase housing that’s on the flywheel side? Is it necessary to replace if it still looks good?
I have a 1996 2510 I have an overheating issue as well. I think mine my be a deeper one. Meaning perhaps the next gasket beyond the water pump gasket. Perhaps out of my skill set to fix.
I’ve heard it is common for the water pump to fail on these.
Hey how are you I have a question I have a Kawasaki mule 2510 like yours my brake pedal spring broke I ordered a new one but don’t know where it hook to underneath there I took the pedal off I know it goes on the pedal but not sure where it hook up at if you could help I would be very appreciative
Did you fix the brake ? If so can you heli
Is the primary clutch bolt left hand threads? Turn in right to loosen it? Thanks
To be honest I don’t recall.
1993 Mule 2510 came off standard. Lefty Loosey.
How do you get the central nut off the primary clutch. The whole clutch turns. Afraid to put something in the flywheel looking front portion. Can you help?
If I recall I used a impact wrench and didn’t have any issues.
Splined crankshaft?
I’ll have to look at the video again. It’s been a few years and I do not recall.
Again, I don't know how far along you are with this. I have to tell you though, nothing comes into my shop area without first be pressure washed from top to bottom. It makes life so much nicer working on it. Being that your videos are popping up out of order for me. Seems I got your last one (carb throttle return spring) first.. Question. What was the problem you had that made you want to take the engine apart? Here are some tips. To drain the engine coolant, there are 2 drain ports at the bottom of the cylinders (clutch side) that have 12mm flanged hex heads. It's easy to spot. If you look at the dip stick mount, you will see a cutout with a bolt behind it that you would be able to get a 12mm socket on. That's one. The other is located at the same spot on the other cylinder. Once that is done, in my mind, it just best just to pull the engine out and work on it on a bench. Makes life much easier Weeves is absolutely correct about bleeding the air out of the coolant system. Another 12mm head flange bolt located on top of the intake manifold, left of the carb looking from the flywheel side. The newer version Mules have another bleed port located on the steel coolant pipe which is even higher than the one on the intake and makes bleeding the system much easier. Also, you may have to visit the bleed screw more than once while getting all the air out of the system. Bleed it, drive it, let it cool, bleed it again and so forth until all the air is out. Once it air locks at the pump, it will overheat in a heartbeat. So, try to avoid that at all costs.
Now, that plastic cam gear. You do not have the factory Mule engine on that machine. Most likely, it is a FD620D off a John Deere or, other lawn tractor. As far as I know, ALL true mule engines have steel cam gears. Another indicator would be if you see a governor lever on top, or, a bolt on top of the block where the governor rod would come through the block to the linkage. A true Mule engine doesn't have that hole for the governor rod. The Mule governor is located in the rear end, not the engine The other difference between a true Mule engine and a 620 from a different piece of equipment is the crankcase cover. You DO have the correct Mule crankcase cover from what I saw when you removed the inside clutch cover. But that plastic cam gear is a dead give way the engine isn't original to the Mule. Another thing, the 620s out of the JD or other equipment will not have the splined PTO shaft. So, the crank was also changed to keep that original. Otherwise, you would have to buy the newer style taper shaft drive clutch assembly, or a aftermarket Comet drive clutch with a straight bore. I think Mule's went to the taper shaft with the 3010 and newer. I prefer the splined shaft. Much easier getting it off.
I just finished up rebuilding a (true Mule) 620 as a spare. All it's lacking to be "plug and play" is the starter.
If you have any question about the Mule, please feel free to contact me. Weeves also sounds like he knows what he's talking about. Hopefully, you downloaded the link he sent you for the service manual. A wealth of info in there. I also sent you some links earlier where you can find (to a point) quality used spare parts.
It had a coolant leak on the engine cover so I had to tear it down to replace the gasket. Thanks for all the info.
From what I could find online it appears the early mules had plastic cam gears and they switched to metal later while the John Deere’s always had plastic.
I am working on a mule 620 1993. What all is involved with replacing the starter?
Me podria Brindar Informacion, De La Calibracion de Valvulas. Mule 2510. Muchas Gracias.